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Posted: October 31st, 2009, 5:53pm CDT by Rory
Anyone out there who can either lend me a 50mm diamond wholesaw or drill 2 holes for me?
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Hi everyone!
I was just wondering if anyone here is also from Bloemfontein?
Any advice on getting started and how to overcome the issue of not being able to get fresh sea water for an aquarium?
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These are the top photo's as voted by you, we have taken the top 3 most voted for photo's from each thread and now it is time to narrow it down to just 13. Please scroll through the pics, write down the number's of your favourite 13, when done please vote for your pics in the poll above by choosing all of the numbers that correspond with the photo's you like.
Photo 1 - fish tank scene
Photo 2 - Snail and green star polyps
Photo 3 - blue striped mushrooms
Photo 4 - Lionfish closeup
Photo 5 - Red mushrooms and gemmatum
Photo 6 - Blue/Pink LPS coral closeup
Photo 7 - Foxface Rabbitfish
Photo 8 - Sun Coral 1
Photo 9 - Green/Orange zoanthids closeup
Photo 10 - Harlequin Shrimp
Photo 11 - Blue goby in coral
Photo 12 - Pink Hystrix
Photo 13 - Sun Coral 2
Photo 14 - Red/White coco worm
Photo 15 - Yellow tang and cleaner wrasse
Photo 16 - Clown and green carpet anemone
Photo 17 - Hermit Crab
Photo 18 - Pom pom crab
Photo 19 - Black Blenny
Photo 20 - Copperband
Photo 21 - Mantis Shrimp
Photo 22 - Clown trigger
Photo 23 - Ricordea
Photo 24 - Fish and Corals
Photo 25 - Bubble tip anemone
Photo 26 - Brown fish
Photo 27 - Rock Anemone
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Hi Friends.
Aftrer one month I'll free for 15 days so can you give me the suggestion :
What should I do with my fish while I'm on vacation?

Thanks.
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@Yuri, I am sorry but discount is not an excuse. It is totally irresponsible not to quarantine livestock before sale. Now i I'm not picking on ***** because almost all of the LFS that land stock do not quarantine.
Now what i am saying is that the the LFS is expecting the customer to take the fall for poor health fish that might not make a quarantine stint in a stores quarantine facility but are highly desirable so that it becomes a quick money making thing at the live stocks expense. But to the LFS pocket.
Why not take the initiative and pioneer quarantining in SA. You will be very much respected and most aquarists will gladly pay a little more for these goods.
Mods PLS move this post to another thread as it is not intended to have a go at ***** but rather one at the livestock industry as a whole. And hopefully our other sponsors will take note. I am sure all SA aquarists will appreciate better quality LS that have a far greater survival rate.
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Posted: October 30th, 2009, 4:10pm CDT by FDB
Hi guys.
My one tank is on the end of it's second week cycle.
It has some live rock in, a few baby anemonies, etc.
I have been noticing small (less than 0.5mm in length) goggas sitting on the glass and swimming in the tank.
They look like a cross between lice and shrimp.
I can TRY and take a macro photo of one, but hey.. they are very small.
What are they?
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Defy extractor hob.
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Posted: October 30th, 2009, 3:21pm CDT by FDB
Hi all.
I would just like to start a kind of mini survey for my nursery planning....
How big are your fry tanks (in litres or gallons)
Which fish,etc are they for?
Are they Kriesel tanks?
Does it have anything in them (Plants, sand, rock) and if so, what?
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Hi all reefers
I would like to introduce the following magazine to you.
CORAL a every second month magazine, published in Europe and internationally edited by founder of KORALLE Daniel Knop a very well known reefers and author and edited/published by James Lawrence.
This is an very informative magazine aimed at the beginner/intermediate hobbyist and the advanced hobbyist alike. If you intend to make a success of your reef aquarium or you would like to know the new knowledge, new technology or the new cutting edge in Europe. Then this is the magazine for you.
CORAL the reef magazine (Europe), read in combination with practical fish keeping (UK), Freshwater and marine aquarium magazine (USA/Canada) and Tropical fish keeping (USA) give you the a complete oversight of marine trade in the major countries around the world.
PET STOP - email customers = look in your in box for your special price!!!;)
MASA members that want to be on this email list -
send a request to
info@petstopsa.com and sit back and get all this before all the others.
Marketing over J let me tell you of what to expect in these magazines.
1
.Jan/Feb 2009
a. Breeding MANDARINS WOW
b. In depth look at: TRIGGER FISH!!
c. Stocking of a reef aquarium, some thought provoking statements regarding miss conceptions by Prof. Ellen Thaler
d. Reef lighting by Anthony Calfo
e. Exploring/Discovery of Madagascar
f. Ozone 101
g. Rarities
i. Anemone/comential shrimps normally in stock @ Pet Stop
ii. Long fin anthias I would love to get them, constantly on the lookout for them J
iii. Clarion angel never seen them.
h. Reef aquarium Rene Vachovec, Germanys SPS & clam tank
2.
Mar/Apr 2009
a. Breeding Harlequin filefish
b. In depth look at: Large-polyp Stony Corals (LPS Corals) by Daniel Knop AND PROPAGATING
c. Marine Aquarium Coulcil (MAC)
d. Gemmatum tang
e. Deionizer 101
f. Rarities
i. Red head neon goby sometimes on lists
ii. Tailspot blenny - sometimes on lists
iii. Life among plankton
g. Exploring/Discovery of Galapagos
h. Reef aquarium Robert van Tilburg, Netherlands SPS tank
3.
May/Jun 2009
a. In depth look at: Mouthbreeders
b. In depth look at: Hermit crabs
c. Deep sea reef tanks.
d. Breeding BANGGAI CARDINALS
e. Rebounding bleached SPS corals
f. Porcelain crabs
g. Strontium 101
h. Rarities
i. Red fluorescent in fish
ii. Pigmy sea horses
iii. New Giant clam
iv. Yellow banded possum wrasse
v. CLEAR cleaner shrimp
i. Indonesian fisheries
j. Exploring/Discovery of Manado
k. Non photosynthetic corals & pipes + sea horses Sabine Sax, Germany
4.
Jul/Aug 2009
a. In depth look at: sea squirts my favorites
b. Breeding Comets
c. MY FAVORITE CORAL
Acanthastrea sp.
d. Banner fish a look at
e. Rarities
i. Cocos pygmy angel only rarely on lists
f. Exploring/Discovery of Oman
g. Aiptasia 101
h. MANGROVE biotope
i. Deep sea Explorer Sylvia Earle
j. Non photosynthetic coral tank Dr. Jens Kallmeyer, Germany
5.
Sept/Oct 2009
a. In depth look at: Moray eels
b. Care & cultivation of mushrooms,
Recordia sp. & Discosoma sp.
c. Diving in a 76000 liter reef tank! (My dream J)
d. Rarities
i. Banded-head convict goby not seen on lists, yet.
e. Exploring/Discovery of Mindoro
f. Lionfish in the Atlantic
g. Decorated crab we have them in stock J
h. Glass anemones 101
i. O3 ozone revival
j. SMALL Reef aquarium Deniz Sisman, Turkey
So see you at Pet Stop we have them in stock!:slayer:
Moolis, Shawn & Company
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Hallo PET STOP - email customers,
Indonesia and Philippines landed today.- 2009-10-29
This is the stock and price list of the new arrivals
See you soon.
Fish - Angel - Grey Orange-Striped Angel - Centropyge Eibli = R 260.00
Fish - Wrasse - Solar Fairy Wrasse - Cirrhilabrus Solorensis = R 180.00
Fish - Wrasse - Dianfish Filamen - Paracheilinus Filamentosus = R 175.00
Fish - Wrasse - Diana's Hogfish - Bodianus Diana = R 195.00
Fish - Tang - Orange epaulette Surgeon - Acanthurus Olivaceus/ADULT = R 495.00
Fish - File - Tentacled Filefish - Chaetodermis Penicilligerus = R 150.00
Fish - Cardinal - Cardinal Fish - Pterapogon Kauderni = R 185.00
Invert - Star - Red Starfish Multiflora - Linckia Multiflora = R 150.00
Invert - Star - Orange Linckia Starfish - Linckia Spp. =R 150.00
Coral - Soft - Star Polyps Metallic Green - Clavularia Viridis = R 380.00
Coral - Soft - Green Daisy Polyps - Cornularia Spec. = R 295.00
Coral - Polyp - Colored Button Polyps - Zoanthus Propalythoa = R 450.00
Invert - Tiger Sponge (2 colors) - Halichora Spec = R 375.00
Coral - Mushroom - Colored Ringed Mushroom - Discosoma Sp. = R 480.00
Coral - Mushroom - Purple Furry Mushroom - Discosoma Sp. = R 590.00
Coral - Hard - Encrusting Coral 2 COLORS - Blastomussa Wellsi = R 550.00
Fish - Fish - Panther Grouper - Cromileptis Altivelis = R 255.00
Fish - Cardinal - Cardinal Fish - Pterapogon Kauderni = R 180.00
Coral - Hard - Red Lemon Coral - Goniopora Lobata = R 450.00
Coral - Hard - Red Lemon Coral - Goniopora Lobata = R 450.00
Coral - Hard - Green Metallic Jewelpot - Goniopora Lobata = R 280.00
Coral - Hard - Green Metallic Jewelpot - Goniopora Lobata = R 280.00
Coral - Hard - Red Rose Brain Coral - Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi = R 395.00
Anemone - Brick Red Rose Anemone - Radianthus Malu = R 900.00
Anemone - Pink Sand Anemone - Radianthus Malu = R 450.00
Anemone - Purple Long Ttcl Anemone - Radianthus Malu = R 650.00
Anemone - Purple Long Ttcl Anemone - Radianthus Malu = R 650.00
Coral - Soft - Star Polyps Metallic Green - Clavularia Viridis = R 380.00
Coral - Soft - Green Daisy Polyps - Cornularia Spec. = R 295.00
Coral - Polyp - Colored Button Polyps - Zoanthus Propalythoa = R 380.00
Coral - Hard - Echinophora Coral (Colored) - Echinophora Lamellosa = R 480.00
LESS 7.5% on Indo on credit card
Less 10% cash
TODAY 2009-10-29 ONLY
Phillip 2009-10-29
Norm - Today+tomorrow
Cardinal - RED SPOTTED CARDINAL - R 45.00
Damsel - GREEN CHROMIS - R 45.00
Damsel - BLUE DAMSEL - R 45.00
Damsel - YELLOW TAIL BLUE DAMSEL - R 45.00
Angel - JUVENILE FLAG FIN ANGEL - R420 = R395.00
Angel - REGAL ANGEL - R480 = R 420.00
Clowns - PERCULA CLOWN - R115 = R 60.00 Nice ones
Goby - GREEN CLOWN GOBY - R80 = R 45.00
Invert - TURBO SHELL - R55 = R 45.00
Fish - HARLEQUIN TUSK - R650 = R 555.00
Angel - ORIOLE ANGEL - R260 = R 240.00
Goby - PINK SPOTTED SHRIMP GOBY - R195 = R 160.00
Fish - BLUE FACE TRIGGER (MALE) - R390 = R 350.00
No extra discount will be given on Philippine stock.
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Predict the score,
closest wins a self funded trip to any lfs of their choice.
I predict
BB 27-Cheethas 12.
Scrums will go to Cheetahs, that will be it for them.
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Yes I know, a very random question:), but, I'm worried about my cat jumping into my tank. What measures do the cat owners here take?
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came acroos this website, free online magazine, seems pretty nice.
example
Welcome to the RHM Archive
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Hi All,
Quality SPS at R400 per piece this weekend at Idol Marine.
Large shipment of LPS corals has arrived and will carry a 10%
discount this Saturday.
Please pop in this weekend for these great specials,free advice and anything related to marine fish and coral keeping.:thumbup:
Keep well,look forward to seeing you all this weekend.
Idol Marine Crew.
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Hi Friends.
I have a question and I want help from you to solve it.
How to determine the sex of most common fish ?
Thanks.
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hey guys.
i have some excess liverock that i would like to get rid of that is sitting in my sump taking up space.
the liverock is fully cured and has been in my system for over a year.
i am selling it due to it taking up to much space in my sump. i need to free up space so that i can work in there better as well as let my cheato grow out a bit more.
on that note,
if you come to collect some LR i will harvest some cheato for you if you are in need :thumbup:
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Hi All - I am battling with a nitrate spike that just won't quit - I've been doing +-40% water changes weekly the last 3 weeks or so and no change. So ... I want to try the chaeto in the sump experiment and see if it works. Does anyone know where in Gauteng where I can get hold of some please? Have tried several LFS with no luck.
Is high nitrate also harmful to corals ? ( or just fish ? ).
My other parameters are :
PH 8.4
Ammonia : 0.25
NO2 : 0
N03 : 60 + ( tested directly after water change, with 2 test kits )
SG : 1.025
Ca : 400
KH : 10
Temp : 24
Any other suggestions on how to reduce it rapidly - or whats causing it?
Tank specs : Display 270l
Sump : 120 lt / DSB
Skimmer : Small Boyu
But any info on where this elusive chaeto might be hiding would be great thanks !
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I would like to know if any one has had any experience with an Elos skimmer, in particular the NS1000. I have the opportunity to acquire one with my new Elos 120 and I am not sure whether to purchase said set up without the equipment and use another brand of skimmer. I do know that the skimmer is a top-down venturi design but do not know how this compares with needle/mesh wheel designs.
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Hi, are there any pe Reefers? Or a reef club? Or Lfs there? Seems that im moving there next yr, and wonder what i need to bring. Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device
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Delux Waterboy RO unit for sale ,this is the 4 pod unit which also has the back flush valve installed.Two 10 mtr rolls of pipe as well as water connection .
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Hi All - thanks for the very warm welcome received by many a few days ago.
I have a potentially contentious topic to discuss.
I seen many a rock wash up along the Ballito coastline, the type that have mussels and clams and small anemones attached to them and are extremely porus. When one looks closer at the rock you see all sorts of critters scrambling through the crevices.
My questions are:
Can you place these rocks in you set up (after the whole curing prosses)?
Are you allowed to take these rocks (after all, they washed up on the shore)?
Are there parasites and other undesirables found on these rocks?
Thanks Guys
Dan.
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Dear Grim Reaper
So far this year you have taken away my favourite dancer Michael Jackson, my favourite actor Patrick Swayze and my favourite singer Stephen Gately.
Just so you know, my favourite politician is Julius Malema.
Thanking you in anticipation.
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Posted: October 29th, 2009, 3:52pm CDT by Zuna
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perfect for propogation, QT or just a spare tank lying around.
tanks have scratches
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hi,i am a novice diver,recently obtaining my open water qualification.i want to buy a BC,could u guys suggest something,willing to spend between 6k-7k.thanks.
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Hi all
I'm wanting to buy this fish from my LFS but not sure what type of Butterfly it is, and if its reef safe?
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Posted: October 29th, 2009, 11:42am CDT by Goby
Helo all
My question today. does a bigger skimming surface make a difference in water quality? and what type of overflow works the best.
I would like you to share some of your thoughts on overflow designs and maybe a few pros and cons about the design. Also, what other types of overflow designs are available. I know of corner overflows and center overflows. Is there any other designs?
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ok guys i have finally decided to start building my frag setup,
tank sizes 1.200 x .600 x .300 (2)
sump sizes 1.200 x .600 x .300 (2)
here is a very basic drawing that illustrates what happening
the tanks ontop will be lit with either 2 x 54w T5 tubes (10000k) or a combo of 1 x 10000k and 1 blue. i have a very nice 4 x 54w T5 unit given to me by a friend but i cant justify running such wattage on a frag setup. (especially on 1 tank0 so id rather split the lighting for all the tanks benefit.
although the skimmer in the pic is insump, i am going to run my AM TF5000 skimmer and will eventually connect another bank of tanks to it. I dont want to overskim.. (cant believe i just typed that)
carbon will also be placed somewhere inline (perhaps on the overflow line to sump) to reduce toxins as a result of cutting.
The suggested corals i will be focussing on are Xenia, mushrooms and some frogspawns. RBTA's are also on my mind..
i will see how my green plating monti's do in the setup and asses if its worth trying to put them in there aswell, but i have ideas of eventually building a larger sump for my main display and partitioning off a section for them in there.
i have plans for a further (3) 1.000 x .500 x .350 tanks but they will only be set up if i can find a steel stand at a good price.( i had industrial shelving in mind)
2 friends and i are going to purchase some of the parent stock and frag, the idea is not to get greedy take a piece of each coral bought for ourselves and distribute smaller more affordable pieces to other starting hobbyists, this is not aiamed at being a buisness, just a couple of guys trying to make things more affordable for themselves and other..
please offer suggestions and comments on the system.
there is still a long way to go.
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Dog Kennel to fit a medium to large size dog. Plastic moulded type
The dog didnt want to use it :P
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I think this must be thee most popular sentence on a reef keep forum. I think all of us used it at some stage in the beginning....:lol::lol::lol:
Basically every newbie start off with this::thumbup:
Any ideas as to other sentence, please feel free to add:
"I have been keeping freshwater tanks all of my life"
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What home made recipes have you heard of for dosing? Even old school olden days dosing. basically stuff you can get in the supermarket.
I have heard of
vodka,
bi-carb,
chalk,
sugar,
vinegar,
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Is thr anyone that can help me on this...
As i have read thr are three types of liquid carbon sources that can be dosed or used in an aquarium...
Namely...
1) Vodka
2)Sugar
3)White Vinegar
My question is...
Is thr anyone that has dosed or used White Vinegar in thr system...?
As to Vodka i have asked questions and read quite a bit...Vodka dosing as mentioned in a previous thread, they said dose 1ml per 100 ltrs...correct me if i am wrong please...
As i am not allowed to keep Vodka in my house, i want to try White Vinegar...But i need to know how much ml's is required to dose in a 400 ltrs system that has been running for 3 years...My KH is constant at 9-10...
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Birthday blessings reefers:thumbup: Have a great day and may your'll see many many more:)
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Some more good news...for a change :)
Glamour greenie supports reef park
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The ever popular Berlin classic together with a powerful Aquamedic needle wheel pump.
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Plus minus 40kg live rock ,a mix of different types R50.00 per kg minimum 10 kg.Thanks Aashiq
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anybody who can help of with setting up my pg controller. I have calibrated the probe to a ph of seven. Inserted the probe into the calcium reactor. Set the set option to a ph of 6.5. At the moment the ph in the chamber is 6.8 and the sol on the has bottle does not switch on. If i set the set ph to higher than the ph in the the chamber then it opens the value. Is it not working in reverse..
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posting to say to everyone.
I have had tropical aquariums most of my adult life and have only in the last year moved onto marines. WOW what a learning curve, but will probaly never go back to tropical. (not as problamatic and exiting)
I am still struggling with green hair algea growth, but will solve this problem. I intend going onto corals, but first want to master this completely as marines are too expensive to have a loss or a crashed tank.
Tank setup is as follows.
240l tanl with 15kg live rock
Wet/dry trickle filter.
Nitrite Reactor (DIY) - Running for about a week now
2 X clowns
2 X blue/yellow tail damzels
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Hi guys,
My tank is running for about three and a half months now and since last week i have seen an increase in a green grass-like(moss??) growing on my live rock. what is it and what could be the cause?? also should i leave it or treat it?
thanks
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Hi All,
I have been doing somereading on the net about vodka dosing, and I have a question.
When one doses vodka into the tank, do you have to dose a bacteria as well.
All the articles that I have read dont mention about dosing a bacteria.If the bacteria is also dosed then when is it dosed?
Cheers
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HI guys, I am busy setting up a small frag setup and need to make a key decision on plumbing
Option 1 : Plumb the setup to my main system and get all the pristine water parameter benefits etc.., but carry the risk of Coral disease transfers
Option 2: Create a completely separate system to prevent any transfer of coral infection that may happen as a result of fragging, but then battle with independent water parameters of a small system
Which choice is the best one ?
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Hi every one,
I have a Corner Tank with cabinet for sale
it is 205L 710h 610w front 570 and front sides 20 each.
Base is 710 h. have all the equipment for a tropical i.e. canister filter gravel rocks etc
selling or R2000.00 but will neg on price.
need to finance marine setup:thumbup:
Thanks:thumbup:
Simon
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'Monster Shark' Chomps Into Great White
9:54am UK, Tuesday October 27, 2009
Huw Borland, Sky News Online
A giant shark that could be up to 20ft long has sent shockwaves across Australian beaches after a great white was nearly bitten in half.
The great white after being savaged at sea (Pic: Courier Mail)
A stunning picture shows a 10ft predator thrashing about with two massive chunks missing on either side of its body, off the Queensland coast.
Experts said its rival may be 20ft (about six metres) long, judging by the size of the huge bites.
I've heard about the big one lurking. Every surfer is always cautious over here.
Surfer Ashton Smith
The
great white was savaged after it got snared on a drum line - a baited hook attached to a buoy - near North Stradbroke Island, east of Brisbane.
The wounded creature was still alive when a crew hauled it onto a boat, close to Deadman's Beach.
"It certainly opened up my eyes. I mean the shark that was caught is a substantial shark in itself," Queensland Fisheries' Jeff Krause told Australia's Daily Telegraph.
Swimmers have been warned to stay out of the water near the island.
The attack also worried many at a nearby tourist Mecca - Surfers Paradise, south of Brisbane.
View
Shark Shock in a larger map
Surfer Ashton Smith, 19, of the Gold Coast, told the Courier Mail: "I've heard about the big one lurking. Every surfer is always cautious over here."
Drum lines and shark nets are used to defend swimmers from sea predators, but they have been criticised for occasionally trapping migrating whales.
Fisheries minister Tim Mulherin told the Mail that the capture of the bitten shark - and the indication of a larger one feeding in the area - bolstered the decision to keep defences in place.
He added there were no special plans to hunt the attacking shark but contractors had reset the drum lines.
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I'm still new to this wonderfull and exiting hobby.
Me and Goby started a few months ago,
our incredible journey take 1, but i've desided to plan a better and bigger setup with the help of all MASA MEMBERS if that's ok with you. Updates to follow soon, cheers for now.
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Howzit...
I am in desperate need of Microbacter 7.Does anyone have in stock?
If yes, how many bottles and what sizes?
Cool
Ridwaan
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A lot have been have been mentioned and said about Closed Loop Systems. I have opted to make use of a CLS in my new tank. This thread will hopefully give people who consider waterflow via CLS an in depth understanding of what to and what not to do.
Tank Specs and features:
To bring you guy into picture, my tank is 1000x500x500
(this is very important to keep in mind, as this review is based on this size - and bigger sized tanks will be different). The rear wall is lower than the rest of the sides, with an overflow box at the back with two holes for outlet to sump. I had 5 holes drilled for the closed loop piping, that would then be sitting in the corners, and one in the middle right hand. See pic below of right hand side:
One of the biggest pro's to a closed loop is that you have minimal plumbing in the tank, and there is not heat from powerheads etc. Another major advantage is that,
if done right, it is completely Nennie safe. Initially this was my aim with the CLS, as I wanted to keep nennies. So what we decided to do is drill bthe bottom with two holes; these would feed my two external pumps. The problam with this however, is that these two suction holes would obviously suck in anything coming too close to it. So, we then built a box on the bottom, and used eggcrate with and mesh to close it op over this box. This would now leave enough space to suck water in - without harming any livestock. See pictures below:
Plumbing and pipes:
There is basically only two options IMO that you can use for the CLS piping. Either white PVC "conduit" piping or blue high pressure piping and bends. Just a quick word on the two.
PVC "conduit" piping is manufactured for electrical applications, and NOT water flow. For this reason I strongly advice not to use them. Why? Well the two main issues is flow throught the bends. If you take a 90deg bend of white PVC "conduit" piping, and feel the inside, you will feel very sharp corners and not much bend in it. This REALLY affects flow alot. Also, I have found that these "conduit" pipes won't handle the pressure in the long run. Even when sticking it with PVC weld, I personally feel it will give at some stage (that is if you are willing to have about no flow untill such time)
High Pressure pipe and fittings on the other are, well, just that. Built for high pressure and flow, so you get better flow through it. Also, the actual pipe is thickerm and because it is darker and thicker, no light penetrates so minimal algae will grow inside it (this contrary to PVC Conduit pipe)
Okey, hopefully now you have decided to spend the money on high pressure piping and fittings, so let's go on...
Pipe size is also a very important factor. I personally feel that you are wasting your time using 20mm pipe, as this really is just a jet of water, and not suited for main flow in the tank. Another major factor to keep in mind, is to have your suction size into your pump a bigger size pipe than your outlet. I used 32mm pipes for my intake, and a 25mm pipe for the closed loop and outlets. The basic advatage of this is quite simply this - your pump work more effectively with less stress.
Your next "skip a heartbeat" expense is deciding whether or not to use unions and valves. IMO, it is a must. The simplre reason is having a valve on each outlet helps you controll the individual flow of that specific outlet. Some areas must have strong flow and others less, so this really helps a lot with that. Then using unions is another major advantage. I have not used unions on each outlet, as space did not allow for this. I also did not use unions on my pumps initially -
a mistake that almost made me quit over the weekend... But all is sorted and I have put unions both on intake and outlet now, and this makes for easy removal of pumps.
Here is the basic fittings for the top plumbing on my CLS:
Now some of you wonder why the Mayonaise is in the picture? No, I am not a rep or promoting it... Basically, Mayo helps to clean that sticky glue that remains on the plastic after I have removed the price tags.
On bends:
One thing to keep in mind when doing any plumbing where pumps are involved, is that a 90degree bend really puts a lot of strain on your flow. Basically this is because water runs into a solid wall, and then turns 90degrees and has to pick up speed again. The best way to make a "smooth" 90degree is to use two 45's. What happens is water is basically running twice down a 45deg angle (making the 90deg) and thus this doesn't affect flow as much. The actual space it takes up makes it difficult some times, and I could also not use this concept everywhere. But make sure, where you can, that you do use this smoother 90degree bending, as it REALLY helps with water flow a lot. See picture below for the "smooth" 90deg design:
(also not the overflow box...)
Pumps:
As mentioned before, the major advantge of using external pumps for flow is that you do not have those butt ugly powerheads in the tank, that is really just an eye sore. Also, you do not have any heat introduced into the tank, and as I have done it, zero hazard for any nennies or livestock. I have used two 5800l/ph @ 4m head pumps on my closed loop system. I wanted to use two 3300litre pumps (but I am so glad I didn't (well get to that...)
These pumps were then seated below the intake (VERY IMPORTANT) so that it can easily suck with a bit of help from Father Gravity. Pictures shown are still without unions - a price a paid dearly this weekend when I started this baby up and ended with streams of water squirting out everywhere due to bad glue applications ... Also the return piping was not yet connected when I took these photos. I will update this thread with new photos though ;)...
*Note on glueing:
When you stick these pipes together, I prefer using PVC weld and not silicone. The main reason is that the silicone is under trameandous pressure, and it will not sustain this long term. When you want to stick a connector and pipe with PVC weld, make sure to sandpaper around the area of pipe that will go into the connector, and also the inside of the connector. Then you apply the weld all around it, stick it in and give in one 360deg turn to one side, and a 180deg turn to the other. You will now feel this pipe really tightening. You can also put some weld where the two pieces come together, to make sure there is no leak. Remember though, that once you stick it with PVC weld, it is inseperable, so think carefully and make sure you cut your pipes right.
Finished product:
The finished product now consists of five outlets, each on it's own ball valve. I have dropped the rear plumbing down the back to the bottom, and left the front flows higher, and I used a mixture of 45deg and 90deg bends for flow direction. I also allowed for the nozzles to be able to rotate so I could adjust the flow direction. To do this, I took the piece of pipe where the nozzle should be, and sandpapered it heavily. Then I used white plumbers tape and taped it on that spot. Now the nozzle fits tightly over the pipe, and can be moved into any direction without being blown off the pipe by the flow.
The final product looked like this:
Does it work?
Well, to be quite honest I was a bit disappointed by the amount of flow I got from the two pumps. I helped my dad move a 1.2m tank yesterday, and we used one of these pumps to pump the water from his tank into a container. We used a 32mm flexible hose, that was 30meters long and we pumped the water from a room in the house to the trailer (about 15-20meters far) and the pump delivered a full stream of water. But when I connected it to my tank, and two for that matter) I could really see the effect all those bends and T pieces had. The
TYPE of flow however was absolutely amazing. I can adjust the nozzle in any direction and get the flow perfect. I am cycling my tank now, and have a piece of LR with long GHA, and this shows me what flow there is. It really is good flow type though.
Is it worth it compared to powerheads?
In my honest opinion, I do not think that a CLS like this is effective enough for the only flow in a SPS dominated tank. If you are planning a LPS or soft coral tank, then it would be great. Even for keeping an anemone and adjusting the right flow around it would work, but it really is not strong enought for SPS.
It also is not at all more cost effective. The two pumps cost me around R1300 each. The plumbing only cost me around R1700 in total. Compared to other flow methods you could spend R3000 on, this really is only for the person who is adament on keeping a fully "safe" system. The wattage of each pumps is also 90W per pump (which is quote low for these type of pumps) so that does not help on electricity usage. This compared to the 9 - 15W usage for powerheads...
If you would to use bigger pumps, then maybe it would work better, or even if you could somehow replace the 90deg bends with the "smoother" 90deg design that would also help.
And and all, it was a lot of money spent, that, seeing that I will not be keeping nennies in this tank might have been waste. I hope however that this thread helped a lot of you guys in planning and building yor future CLS systems.
Thank you
Jaco
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Hi.
I love Aquarium but unfortunately i dont have in home. I am planing to have this in home. So can you help me which Fish is best for Aquarium.i have heard about some beta fish.so can you tell me about beta fishes and what are the maintenance required for this.what will be the cost of the aquarium. and last question can you tell me from where can i bye the fishes in California.
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Happy birthday dude - have a great day:thumbup:
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hi everybody
i have two animone one green with vevet end and the other is red with orange end >
the question is how to preserve and to keep their colour?
please advice
thanks in advance
amin
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Posted: October 27th, 2009, 12:18am CDT by Matt
This tank is the most amazing thing I have ever seen and the attention to detail is remarkable!
Vid:
DSPS tank from Thailand on Vimeo - one word... amazing
You can check out his thread over at
reefcentral (you'll need a day or two to read through his thread!)
teaser pics from reefcentral:
Achilles love!
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Posted: October 27th, 2009, 9:07pm CDT by Max
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the stand :

the room's not finished yet , but like that the tank will be running , once all it's done
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Nice short video. No MH or T5's :)
Coral gardening. [VIDEO]
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Hi guys,
Im not really happy with the flow in my tank right now and would like some advice and input.
Its not really very good and im starting to notice some signs of cyano showing.
I want to create a high/medium flow area and a medium/low flow area
For water movement I have:
2 x Seio (2500LPH)
1 x Hydor 3 (3500LPH)
1 x Return from Sump (2500LPH)
and a return from my refugium (the input pump is 2500LPH but by the time it gets to my tank it is nothing near that - maybe 250LPH)
Now, my current scaping is like this:
Old pic (have since added the Hydor and Refugium)
I would like to change it to a two island scape with the LH island being high/medium flow and the RH island being medium/low flow.
Would i be able to put all my powerheads on the LHS glass and still achieve good random flow? any thoughts on positioning?
I thought something like this: (sorry, only have paint on this comp :banghead: - time to download sketchup )
The rockwork will be placed on eggcrate to elevate off the substrate
The lower powerhead will be a Seio and will be pointed through the rocks for detritus control.
The top two i am not sure about and have thought of 3 options:
1 - have them pointing straight down the tank
2 - or at a small angle to bounce off the front and back panes of the tank
3 - or blowing "across" each other and the rockwork ( corals might be in the line of fire with this one)
I also still have the return to use ( I can slide it up and down the length of my tank - the joys of flexible pipe :D )
and the 250LPH of the refuge .
Your thoughts and comments will be greatly appreciated.
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I want to build a DIY kalkwasser, but I need a small external pump. Any suggestions?
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Posted: October 27th, 2009, 2:27pm CDT by neo
Hi,
anybody know/have experience with the 'waterhouse' pumps?
Noise level?
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NOW I'M REALLY PISST!
The dum fu..@C#$%k just cut my power of saying i haven't paid my acct
After i told them this is a mistake and giving them my ref no they are only switching it back on later to day. WHAT BULL's IS THIS!!! so now eskom can cut your power with out warning you!
The shi$#@ doesn't stop there even thou they made i mistake i must still pay the connection fee before they switch it back on (the comm system said so).!??
But I'm piste off because i was sickling my big tank, and have a extra hose is there to an skimmer that is not part of the system and now with no return pump all the water 5000L OF SALT WATER IS GONE!
can i sue them!
:(
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We caught a small coachman, and wanted to know if it is reefsafe? It is small now, and will eventually grow, but will be going into a big tank.
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Posted: October 27th, 2009, 1:17pm CDT by maj
ok,i got all my goodies now,i think.
PLEASE NOTE:
this is my 1st Tank ever setup,im new to this world so be gentle
Tank is a 1.2m(L)X600mm(H)X500mm(W)
I have a berlin skimmer
aquamedic 2500l/ph pump attached to skimmer
astro 4000,2900l/phreturn pump
have aragonite for both dsb and DT base
about 40kg LR
2 powerhead for flow in the tank,aswell as 2 wavemakers
Have a T5 lighting pendant
2 300w heaters
I aim to go both fish and corals
Also got lotsa plumbing and connectors
Sorry for crappy pics and dirty equipmnt,still cleaning it up
My question might seem stupid to evryone...but here goes.
please advise what pipes need to go on the two openings on the skimmer.
Lookin at the pic,1st outlet pipe should lead to?
Please note the overflow return in the background
see below pics for more understanding of my setup
tank
return pump
Will appreciate any good advise.
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Yes Anthony Calfo, and possibly Jullian Sprung are coming to the shop for a short evening to chat to the Joburg crowd.
All are welcome, so if you missed IMACSA this year come through.:slayer:
Date: Wedensday evening, yes thats tomorrow.:P
Time: 5pm to 7.30 pm.
Please post here if you can come so that we have an idea of numbers.
We will have some drinks and snacks available.
Cheers
Rob, Adriaan and the Idol Marine crew.
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thanks
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Hi everyone.
:peroni::peroni::peroni::peroni::peroni:
Cheers
TR
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I need to make a cabinet to cover the tanks steel stand, I've been quoted over 7k to have one made but that is hellish expensive. Who knows someone capable and reasonable? Does someone have simple plans/ideas I could take to timber city?
Thanks!
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Hey - its your birthday! its your birthday! :party:Enjoy theres of the day and may your'll see many many more :happybday:
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where can i get Zeovit range in SA ??
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Let us list all the things New-to-marines people think they can do better, re-invent the wheel, alternative solutions. I joined over a year ago. And in this "short" period seen a lot of new guys jumping into this hobby. And they think, and some even can do things better. So it is not to criticise DIY jobs, but to show newbies, what has been done, or what has been tried out, and what normally at the end of the day cost you the same (or more) that the real thing. Or the time spent on it does not justify the savings gained.
Ok, my attempt first. Build my own 6*39w T5 light unit. Costing me about 1500 in total (globes included). Where I could get a Chinese import for under 2000 ,complete just plug and play. And mine looked crap. And I spend a good part of a Saturday connecting everything.
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Hi All,
I am looking for a long-spine or pencil urchin if anyone wants trade or sell
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HI all
Is it possible to have a fishless sps reef? What would be needed to feed the sps if one did not have the fish poop? On that note would a Protein skimmer even be neccessary since there is no fish waste in the system? Any other advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
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After months of fart-arsing around I've finally got things rolling. This is before a little incident with green cyano which led to the demise of all my corals and most of my fish.
I've moved house now so the tank will be against the wall, and Adriaan put the overflow on the long side. Changed the stand as I was not happy with the way it was bowing in the middle. Also put black vinyl on the back of the tank.
My Dad is making some brackets to mount the lighting unit and will be doing a freshwater test this weekend. If my plumbing skills are sound (ish) I will start the slow process of adding RO.
LFS has been kind enough to keep my few surviving LS for the last 5 months (naso, yellow and regal tang, 1 clown, 1 chromi and a peppermint shrimp.) as well as my LR. I'm hoping it is well cured as I have a deadline to get the tank operational as I'm buying corals from a fellow reefer.
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AquaNotes Software V3.0
Windows 95/98; logs pH, temp., and ORP data; allows multiple tank support; modem support permits pager alarm, as well as dial-in access
Windows 95/98; logs pH, temperature, and ORP data; allows multiple tank support. Modem support permits pager alarm, as well as dial-in access. Integrated database permits an electronic notebook for tank. Graphs and prints any recorded condition; exports data for other applications. CD ROM. This product is not required to use the AquaController.
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I am having a problem with red algae.its in my substrate my glass and on a few of my rocks. Why is this caused and how can I get rid of it?
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Algae is always a problem, there is hundred's of threads on how to get rid of it. Well i need more of the green gold not for making bio fuel, but for my snails, sins I put them in my tank i havened clean my glass in 6 weeks now i have a problem i need more algae for my snails how do i grow it fast?
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Posted: October 26th, 2009, 9:41am CDT by FDB
Hi guys.
This might be a bit unorthodox, but in the culture of trying to go as close to the way nature does things as possible, would it not be better to source the freshwater used for top-ups from a mock up estuary tank?
In other words (Ok my research on estuaries is not top notch but..), in estuaries, there are freshwater or brackish water with plants (Mangrove, etc.) and loads of animals (Fish, crabs, frogs, bacteria, etc)
You have your freshwater moving to a tidal zone (intertidal and subtidal) moving out to the ocean.
The freshwater bit is important for various reasons Im sure you guys know about already, so is the tidal zone and of course the shallow reef area (Sub tidal and ocean)... and bla bla bla...
So.
Here is my question:
We are all supposed to top up our tanks for evaporation right (and yes ok.. those water changes, but i'm referring to top-ups here..)
We can install a floatation switch to automatically do top-ups for us in the reef tank.
If you have a freshwater tank that is more focussed towards filtration and water conditioning as your freshwater source, the water pump triggered by the floatation switch can pump freshwater to either a "Tidal zone" tank and then to the reef tank, or sommer directly to the reef tank.
We then top up the freshwater tank with fresh water.
Why am i asking?
As far as i have read, there are nutrients coming from the freshwater systems into estuaries, that flow into the tidal zones and then out to see which seems to be vital for reef health. There are bacteria living in freshwater that cannot survive in saltwater (veriety is key?). The estuaries also rock and removing harmful chemicals before the water reaches the ocean.
Yes i know that if you stock your estuary tank with loads of fish, you are kinda defeating the purpose, but i'm referring to a mud bed based Mangrove and / or freshwater plant estuary. Then a rocky tidal area tank and then the water gets into the reef tank. The reef tank still has it's DSB's, protein skimmers, etc. <Question.... Due to the difference in dencities,
This might be an overkill i know coz you can use RO units to clean the freshwater and whatnot, but why are estuaries with plants and life so important in nature? Surely we could leverage that somehow?
What am i missing because no-one seems to be doing or experimenting with this.
<Sorry if this is a stupid question>
Cheerz
Me
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I have a brand new Tunze wavebox for sale... a week old.. my system is just over 700 litres and its to small... its rated for 0-600 litres tanks...
R 2500
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This is interesting as it doesnt seem to affect the entire water column like vodka or other carbon dosing but is concentrated in an almost aerobic container as opposed to a denitrification filter any one have opinions about it?
NP-reducing BioPellets: Easy aquarium filtration
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Posted: October 25th, 2009, 9:28pm CDT by Max
TS 2 SKIMMER
14 MONTHS OLD AND IN EXCELLENT CONDITION, IT IS GETTING TO SMALL FOR ME. :wave2:
I WANT TO UPGRADE TO A 3000LT UNIT.
THIS TS 2 SKIMMER HANDLED MY SYSTEM WELL IT ROCKS :thumbup:, BUT WILL BE TO SMALL WITH THE STOCK IM PLANNING TO KEEP.
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Can any one help ne with the green algea problem. My water paramaters looks ok, just my PO4 thats about 2mg/l. Must i look for a phosphate remover and look for a fish that can eat the algea.
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Posted: October 25th, 2009, 8:39pm CDT by Max
KENYAN TREE
FRAGGED OCT - NOV 2008
SIZE 300MM HIGH WHEN EXPANDED
150 - 200MM WIDE
IN EXCELLENT HEALTH.
THIS WAS FRAGGED FOR ANIMALIA BUT THEY ARE SELLING THEIR BIG TANK AND I NEED THE SPACE.
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Posted: October 25th, 2009, 8:32pm CDT by Max
1,8 M ALUMINIUM LIGHT PENDANT WITH NEW GLOBES.
3 X 150W MH'S - 2 X 10K 1 X 15K AND 1 X SPARE GLOBE
2 X 54W GEISEMAN LAMPS - ACTINICS - THE PERSPEX COVERS IS CRACKED AND NEEDS REPLACING.
4 X 20W MOONLIGHT LAMPS - THIS IS NOT NEW LAMPS
IT HAS 3 SWITCHES ON THE SIDE - 1 FOR MH'S 1 FOR FL AND ONE FOR THE MOONLIGHTS. AND THE BRACKET CAN GO WITH THE FITTING.
I WANT TO UPGRADE TO A DOUBLE 400W UNIT
VIEW FROM THE FRONT
VIEW FROM THE RHS
VIEW OF THE SWITCHES
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Hi Guys,
Seems like the 7th is the day !
We can have it at my house (I will PM addy) ...everyone will just have to excuse the construction works !
For those wanting bring cozzy's for the jacuzzi, there is enough for kids to keep themselves busy with as well.
Was thinking regarding something to eat instead of a bring & braai why not just do boeries & salad ? I'll get everything & everyone attending can just club in say 20 bucks or so ?
This time we would like to chat about specific topics and this is what we have so far:
Vis - Water quality, params etc
Riaan - You will be bringing your new "invention"
Lanzo - see if you can bring a new toy plzzzzz
Jaco - if you can attend your input on Biotypes will be awesome
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Happy birthday members - have a great day and hope your'll see many many more:thumbup:
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All other livestockCommon Name:Liverock and snails
Scientific Name:-
Size10 kgs and 20 snails
How long have you had it?2 years
Shipping or Collection only:collection
Your location.Stellenbosch
Price:R1000
Photo's:
Notes:Liverock are R70 per kg,very mature and good quality liverock,snails are R15 each and extremely good cleaners,wil also accept a swop for a nano,plz guys need to sell this as soon as possible,only the liverock with ni coral on are for sale
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Posted: October 24th, 2009, 11:48pm CDT by Junz
HI Guys,
i just want to know if anyone has a Tennenti Tang and what are your thoughts on it ? im thinking of getting one and myt LFS so happens to have one in stock....
check it out here
Tennenti Tang
Doubleband Surgeonfish, Lieutenant Surgeonfish, Acanthurus tennentii, Syn: Acanthurus tennenti#
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I am looking a for complete tank and housing unit, size about 1.2m or so. Please let me know if you have or know of anything available.
thanks
Joe
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Posted: October 24th, 2009, 9:53pm CDT by Yuri
i can get a 200*60*60cm tank for cheep
Will it be ok to put in
2or3 big angels
2 tangs
1or2 small angel
1 trigger
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hi i have had my salt water for the past 15 years and my stars an stripe puffer for the past 10 years, his room mate a grouper passed away yesterday i assume for old age, at any rate need a new room mate what tyes of fish could i put in with him so the water temp an feeding needs would be the same. I should menshion my puffer is now about 10 inches or longer at this time. an i have had him for 10 years too.
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Brand new Massive Fish Tank - 1048 Litre tank - 2.3m x 570mm wide x 800mm high x 12.5mm thick glass. Never been used Make me an offer I cant refuse 2 x 50mm holes drilled and three 25mm holes drilled. Euro bracing and bracing in the bottom of the tank - 12mm thick as well.
R 10 000 -00 or make me an offer
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Hi, can anyone tell me what may cause the dull color spots on him? Its been like this for almost a month now and he seems to be fine. Its almost transparent, but theres no signs of slime or irritation. Any clues?
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Hi
I am Roborto willys,.I am Doctor. I am from san jose, California.And my hobbies is to make friends,Travelling,watching beautiful scenes and capturing them...
There are many interesting things I have seen in the site.I always look for informative things. So I hope this side will help me..
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Hey guys im moving house at month end.
1]once ive removed all livestock;should i wash substrate or leave it as is.
2]my dsb should i wash that sand or leave it.
3]should i keep as much of the tank water as possible.
4]any good advice
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Posted: October 24th, 2009, 10:44am CDT by Jaak
Ahoy,
After my 1.2 aqua h2o piece of cr@p cracked 3 weeks ago, I decided that I may as well look at upgrading to a larger system. I initially wanted to go 1500x800x700 but the space I have available just will not work with a depth of 800. No worries though as I thought I'll only really start building the tank around December and set it up in January after our December holiday.
Well, that's exactly what did not happen. Instead I was looking through the hardware section in the week and saw that Zookeeper (Aashiq) is selling his tank. I saw the price and thought, that's obviously just for the tank and nothing else. Now I know Zookeeper's tank and I gave him a call. I went to go look at it on Thursday evening and the dimensions of the tank will just work perfectly in my allocated space! I decided to buy it right there and then as the tank comes with a 1.2 sump, stand, cabinet and canopy and free delivery!! Zookeeper, you're the man!!!
The dimension of the tank are as follows: 2000x60x65 and the sump is 1200x450x450 giving me a total water volume of 1023l!! Taking LR, etc into account it will obviously be around 900l, more tan double my previous system. I'm sure my Tangs will be super stoked with the new tank. The wife still does know what hit her!! ha ha ha...
I don't have any pics of my new baby yet as we're only moving her over on Monday evening due to some logistical issues. :(
My plan is to keep a mixed reef like I did in my previous system with some SPS and loads of rics and zoas and some other softies with the odd LPS here and there. From a lighting point of view I'll just diy my 4 x 54w T5's and 2 x 39w T5's to the system until I upgrade the lighting next year. The plan is to just set it up in the next week or two and just let it run through it's cycle until we come back from our December Holiday. All my LS is enjoying life in their hotel at gawiedj's place! Thanks Gawie!! So there's no rush to get it done soon. I might just add a clean up crew before we go away, nothing much for the house sitter to worry about...:thumbup:
I'm just stoked to share the news with you guys and I'm looking forward to go on this journey again as i'm having SERIOUS withdrawal symptoms since my tank burst.
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Hi guys
I am contemplating buying a MH pendant. Will a 250W be too strong for a 600mm cube?
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Right, so I have decided to go down the road of the much sought after LNS or ULNS reef tank.
I am already confused by the 3 main contenders though, Zeovit, Korallen Zucht, Prodibio and Ultralith (Fauna Marin). Do I follow just one method or should I try to combine different parts of all 3 methods, if they are in fact different?
So to start off I have read that the following are the basics:
Efficient Strong Skimming
Sufficient lighting
Sufficient water flow
Weekly water changes
No DSB
No macro algae
2-3 cm sand bed in tank with a grain size of 2mm-4mm
Zeolite Reactor
Fresh, clean live rock
Once I've got all that then the hard part starts, trying to figure out all of the additives and which ones to use etc. :y13:
Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. ;)
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Hi Guys,
Got this massive ugly slug in my tank, must be close on 15cm-20cm in length. He's an absolute cleaning machine.
He's green and has 2 "horns" and 2 tiny eyes. Looks like he's got a massive blowhole like a whale (but on his bum, think it is his bum). He moves around a lot, and likes to sleep to.
Anyone got any more info on these ugly slugs? Will he eat my reef?
Will upload pic over the weekend sometime.
:slayer::wtf:
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Hi guysDorry Pets is 2 years old and due to our birthday...we are now giving our supporters something back:thumbup:
HERE is your specials:
Chillers:
It is summer time and due to this we will be giving
15% off on our whole range of hailea chillers. (masa members only)...so you will have to email me on
lanzo@dorrypets.co.za with your masa name too;)
Seachem Reef Salt:
WAS R1070
NOW R900 per bucket
POLARIO:
WAS R3600
NOW R3100
Polario 22ML Dual outlet pump - 22000 L/h
SEACHEM Stability 500ml:
WAS R220
NOW R190
BrightWell Extrax Phos - Spherical Phosphate-Adsorption Media
3.2kg
WAS R890
NOW R760

DORRY PETS MAKING MARINES AFFORDABLE;)
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Hey guys was thinking of setting up a nano sometime in Jan. Just need some help on deciding on the type of nano to get. My options are the Boyu tl550 or the JBJ 24 gallon cube. The JBJ has 2x 36 watt bulbs, for a total of 72, whereas the Boyu has two bulbs that come to a total of around 50 watts. Both have room for upgrades too put in more bulbs although i would tend not to do this as the increased heat would probably mean a chiller especially seeing that i'm in Pretoria north. Wanting to keep some nice zoas and maybe a LPS or two with some gobies or firefish. So which do i go for, the better lighting of the JBJ or the larger capacity of the Boyu? Also any other comments on either tank that might sway my decision would be helpful.
Thanks.
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Hi guys... Okey, my tank is finally in it's final stages before I start to cycle. :slayer:
Now for the heavy planning part:
I DO NOT want a "garden aqaurium" by just throwing in what ever coral I can get my hands on (No offence to you who do that, but personally I dont want my tank done that way ;))
Anyway, so I am wanting to opt for the deeper coral, lower light corals. I have now done plenty of research, and I want to start off with keeping mainly shrooms, riccordia, zoa's etc. But then I want to start my learning curve on NPS (non-photosynthetic corals) like sun corals, certain members of Gorgonians and Chili Corals. Later on I will then try and keep the almost impossible species like Dendro sp.
Anyway, as you'd know, keepeing NPS requires heavy feeding a few times daily. With excessive feeding comes high nutrients, and thus the need for better filtration. Can you guys just suggest some ways to help eliviate the nutrient buildup other than the basics like skimming etc?
What fish can I keep for example to help me get rid of the excess foods? Would adding more mushrooms help reduce nitrate levels etc? Any suggestions please.
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HEy,
I got a flasher or fairy wrasse (still trying to ID it)
will it be compatible with a Cleaner Wrasse?
thanks guys
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Hello South Africa and the rest of the world!!
My name is Dan, I am new to the marine side of the hobby - I've been keeping Freshwater tanks for the last 20 or so years and now its time to take up the real challenge.
i have been running my marine tank (in my office) now for about 8 months with just my live rock and a few fish and a sand anemone.
I have recently added my first corals (Button Polyps) and they seem to be doing well.
The hobby has bitten me so bad that I have bought a bigger tank and will probably get going on that in Jan.
Thanks to the administrators for this great site and i look forward to a good relationship with everybody.
Thanks
Dan:)
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Posted: October 23rd, 2009, 11:11am CDT by vis
Last night just before fishy bedtime, i saw my Blue leg hermit pulling my one colony of zoa's apart, the Sump is his new home....little bugger.;)
and i thought it was the red legs that are the trouble makers.
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Hi,
My name is J. Allen. I'm new to MASA. I live in the Houston (clear lake, league city) area and am interested in coral frags and fish. I recently moved from the Dallas area and lost several fish and corals in the transition. If anyone knows of a great resource for fish and frags in my area, please let me know.
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Posted: October 22nd, 2009, 9:31pm CDT by neo
Howdy,
what is the diffs between a bulkhead fitting and normal male-female adaptors?
why would one use a bulkhead fitting in place of the male-female adaptors?
the oak bulding my tank had a 50mm hole drilled and is installing male-femal adaptor.
N.
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Posted: October 22nd, 2009, 6:34pm CDT by ml
Hi all
Can one drill into a steel stand with a fully operating tank on it???
Morne
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Posted: October 22nd, 2009, 6:34pm CDT by ml
Hi all
Can one drill into a steel stand with a fully operating tank on it???
Morne
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The big blue and all its magnificent creatures are my inspiration and passion.
From an early age I began to explore the wonders of our Planets diverse aquatic life and ecosystems. I have been an Aquarist for around 25 years and am constantly learning so many new and wonderful things about life in our oceans and rivers. This planet should have been called water not earth anyway!
This current thread will show you my latest endeavour
a slightly different take on a reef aquarium.
The Aquarium is
3 m (L) X 2m (W() X 1 m (H) and holds approximately 5000 litres of water and was the replacement for my old aquarium, which was the same volume but significantly different in shape and design.
The aquarium is concrete , fiberglass and one viewing pane made of low iron glass. My previous aquarium was also concrete and fiberglass and this current aquarium will be my third that I have built this way over the years.
The pictures are not always great quality, because they were taken with a cellphone and low resolution cameras, but you will get the idea .
The Aquarium is built in an outside room . I drew up plans of where it was to be located and had to do substantial reinforcing as it was located above my garage and its total weight was going to be around 15 tons when complete with water.

The front part where the aquarium front and supports are.

The back of the Aquarium and the engine room for it. I had limited space so I had to use what I had and it wasnt optimal.
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Hi
What s the name of that fish? and plz some info abut it.........thanx
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Hey all,
Just to throw a stick into the spokes here, but here goes.
I am not the greatest fish keeper and my knowledge with marines is not the best, but this I can tell you all from what has happened to me.
I had my tank running in a section of the house that got at least 3 hours of sun on it daily. It had a wet/dry filter that used filter wool, bio balls and ceramic rings. I was even only using tap water and my own salt to do water changes, 20% every two weeks. My tank looked good - not great, but pretty good for what I had. I had little flow in the DT (only aobut 5x turnover in the DT) oh and I never blew the gunk off the rocks etc.
Then I found this site and realised that I have been doing everything wrong and all my stuff was "old school". Thanks for waking me up guys and giving me the knowledge and power I have now.
So then, over the past 6 months I have been doing the changes to up my system and get it to where it should. This ment taking the wet dry filter away, installing a proper sump with DSB, got a great skimmer, everything found it's place in the sump and different chambers, my lighting was changed from T8's to T5's (wow, big difference) and then too, slowly started removing the crushed coral and replaced it with playsand I washed and washed and washed.Oh, and of course started using only RO water for my water changes - still 20% every two weeks. I added serious flow to the DT too.Twice a week I blow the gunk off the LR. And all this was only done over 6 months - so I have not rushed into it and done it all at once that would cause things to spike!!!
Now - here comes that stick - after doing all this I started getting GHA, oh and then some more GHA, and then even more GHA. Can't seem to get rid of the stuff.
Whats your feelings on this? I am not saying that what I did from advice was wrong, or that the advice is wrong - I know it is and was the right thing to do.
What you guys reckon?
Oh yes did I mention the GHA problem?
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Can anybody tell me if Eheim wet/dry cannisters are available in SA. Has anyone owned or run a marine setup on this particular model?
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Check out the winning photo, Awesome:thumbup::
Leaping wolf scoops top prize at the Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2009 awards
Read more:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencete...#ixzz0UfM0DOyB

An Iberian wolf jumps a fence intent on his dinner in this stunning photo by Jose luis Rodriguez
Read more:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencete...#ixzz0UfLX0uKe
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Hi All,
I am looking at building my own skimmer, I want a monster, I will be pumping air in, gravity fed from the DT (if I can), as well as pump water in with more air.
But design wise, what is the big differance between an in sump skimmer and an external in design, Sims did try and explain it to me, but I still have no idea.
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Posted: October 22nd, 2009, 12:20pm CDT by FDB
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HI all
As i will be having a mainly SPS reef. Wont not be heavily stocked for now. i want to know what is the possibility of adding kalkwasser solution to my top off compartment? I am talking about the super saturated solution after one has mixed it with the water already the clear liquid? Good idea? bad idea?
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Posted: October 22nd, 2009, 11:27am CDT by Goby
Heloooo MASA,
Ever since my powder blue got WS (and died after the 2nd wave) :( the tank is not so lekker anymore. On monday discoverd that the WS had returned and attached itself to one of the clowns now. Does this shaaaaaaait ever stop??? or will every fish eventually get infected and die? How can i stop this?
Also discovered some realy nasty looking stuff on the LR. It looks like a cacoon. Please ID this for me.
There is plenty of the hanging under this rock.
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Please help ID this wrasse, I do not believe that it is a iridis wrasse.
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I'm not sure if this is the right place to be posting this thread.
I'm building a tank but have no idea about the sizes for drilling the holes for the drains and returns. I am right with drilling 1" Diameter holes for the drains and 3/4" Diameter holes for the retuns??
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Posted: October 22nd, 2009, 9:14am CDT by FDB
Hi all.
I see my live rock has a "big" (1.2cm diameter) Anemone and a few very small ones (3mm diameter).
What kind are they?
Are they good to keep?
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Hi doesayone know of any company or anyone that drills holes in glass in cape town. It needs to be a hand drill as tank is already assembled.
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Howsit All,
Anyone in Cape Town have a Salarius Goby/Lawnmower Blennie they want to get rid of or sell me, pleeezzzz ...
He will be coming to a very good home, i desperately need him to do some serious mowing? I've green hair algae for africa and now on a mission to keep it under control.
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Hi crew!
Our next meeting will be on the 29/10/2009 at the UKZN Dive Club. 18:30 for 19:00.
Im sorry but I will not be able to attend as I will be away.
So bring all your reefing problems along and help out each other. There will be discussions on the next tank viewing as well.
New members, the club welcomes you :)
Cheers
Mekaeel
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Hey guys, looking for some starter soft corals such as mushrooms, zoanthids, polyps etc in the Duran area. Preferably colourful :)
Thanks
Cheers
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It is with regret that I have to sell all my livestock. I am immigrating to Aus and can only take all my hardware with me.
I have a few trees, toadstools, lots of polyps and more, about 45 kg's sugar sized aragonite in the tank and DSB, 25 KG's live rock (free of any nasty algae) and a few snails (including turbo). This includes halve used Tropic Marin expert and calcium test kits and +- 5 KG Tetra Marine salt. The system is very stable and has been running for 6 months. I can send some more photos should you be interested.
No fish I am afraid.
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Hey guys our first official meeting!!!!
Details
Venue : Aquarium - Conference room
Activities : Guest Speaker - General Tank Maintaince
Volunteer work to help clean Aquarium's tanks
Braai
Entrance Fee : Members - R30 incl braai pack
Non members - R60 incl braai pack and
1 year subscription to ECMAA
When : 21 November 2009 (Saturday)
RSVP by 19 November 2009 : Call or sms Grant Buckley (Buckles) on 072 784 1741
Please guys lets get this going invite family, friends or other reefers that you know!!!!
Hope to see you all there!!!!
Cheers Bux :yeahdude:
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Hi Guys
I'm wanting to know if there are any good DVD videos on corals and fish (eg Eric Borneman coral fraging video) available, I got family going to the States so will be able to get it picked up.
I have "Corals quick ref. guide - J. Sprung" and wanting to get A. Calfo - book of coral prop. Any other really good books?
Thanks
Justin
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Hi - can one use rubber "u" type fittings in your plumbing? The type that is used under your sinks or basins?
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Posted: October 21st, 2009, 4:26pm CDT by Goby
Helooo all reefers.
Want to setup a quarantine tank for new and i'll fish. WS is bugging my system and already lost my powder blue. My question, what do i need to run a successful quarantine. do i need things like a skimmer and dsb too? What type of filtration is needed?
thanks
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I'm thinking of adding a Moonlight to my setup. I'd like to do this for it's usefulness when viewing the tank at night after lights out.
My question is will this affect the LS in any way? I'm thinking of using one of those
Mini Sun LED units available from LFS. Any comments on Moonlights in general?
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Hi
Where can I find plastic bolts & nuts and pipe fittings in the Pretoria area?
Please help!!!
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Hi all,
Was wondering - is it possible to use those rubber "U" type connectors one finds fitted to your sinks or basins etc? for use on your tanks plumbing?
I take it that it must be washed and cleaned properly before using it.
Whats your feelings
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Posted: October 21st, 2009, 12:50pm CDT by FDB
Hi all.
Please double check my breeding array plan. Anything you would modify?
The obvious applies (Darkness for the fries, light for the plants, flow pumps on when there are no fries, etc.) but from a flow and design perspective, what am i missing?
Cheerz
Me.
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picture this im getting ***ed out by my boss (in a nice way) about my phone being on the blink and i get a sms saying im due for an upgrade! i have invited him to urge me to take a lottery ticket so lets see what happens..
anyway i have some decisions to make and i was wondering what phones were the better to choose, i am a nokia fan and dont really mind sony erricson either
here is the phone i had in mind:
Nokia Middle East and Africa - Nokia 6720 classic - Specifications
anyone had any experience with this one? good or bad let me know
thanks Les
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hi does anyone have an old c02 cylinder for sale or does anyone know were in durbs i can get one from, much appreciated
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Anybody know were I can get some in Cape Town
Thanks
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Posted: October 21st, 2009, 11:48am CDT by FDB
Hi guys.
I bought a new live rock yesterday and noticed this worm in my tank...
What is it?
It is 2cm long and seem to be sifting the water for food.
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Posted: October 21st, 2009, 10:33am CDT by henk
Hi There.
Do anyone have some frags for sale in the western cape area.:whistling:
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Oops please delete Thread i see Leslie already posted it
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Hi all,
Eish, I've manged to get a nice case of white spot in my tank, sigh, my regal has about 4-5 decent spots on him. Bugger, next time I'll quarantine, promise.
I'm having problems deciding what to do with the hospital tank aspect, I have two fibreglass boxes, 400x400x360high that I want to use. My fish have shown no aggression against each other and are all tiny. I have a regal tang, a pair of juvinile clowns, a cleaner wrasse and a flagtail that I just know is going to give me white spot while stressing out catching them.....
Is it humane to put all these guys in a single hospital tank while treating them with hypo salinity, or should I split them up - and if so, which would you put together ?
Thanks,
Stressing Mark
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Stopping in to say Hi!
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Guys, I would like to share this with you.
Another guy posted on a photographic forum how to get the eyes sharper, but I could not get it right. I then found another way of doing something similar. Obviously not as good as the other guy's idea, but at least I came close...lol
This is copied from a thread I belong to on another forum. See the difference on the eyes, mouth as well as the shirt... (by the way, it is one of my boys).
Hope this can help some of you, even with your fish pics:
1st Pic- standard "bad quality" pic:
2nd Pic- the better one:
And this is how I did it:
Quote:
Thanks guys. I spent about R200 worth of photo paper and dunno how much ink I used on practicing today...lol.
But I'll try until I get it right. I tried another way:
1.) I duplicated the background layer and set the blend mode to overlay
2.)I chose high pass filter, increased the pixel radius to about 3.
3.)I then clicked on the foreground color swatch set the hue and saturation to "0" and took the brightness to "50". It goes to midtone grey
4.)I then "painted" all over the areas I did not want to be too sharp.
It works, but obviously need some more practising to be able to get what Andre is getting.
Sorry Andre, I do not want to highjack your thread, merely looking for answers as I am not good at this.
This is what I came up with, I know the rest of the pic is not right, but at least I got the eyes "sharper" :
|
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Posted: October 20th, 2009, 6:54pm CDT by B&K
Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:Full System
Location:Cape Town CBD
Shipping or Collection only:Collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale:Full system setup for sale inclusive of live rock and livestock. Dont know all the technical terms etc but details of tank include:
Dimensions of tank:
120cm x 70cm x 71cm = 596400 cubic centimetres = 596.4L
Dimensions of Sump:
100cm x 35.5cm x 40cm = 142000 cubic centimetres = 142L
Tank includes 2 x Seio M1100 Power heads, reeftek skimmer with octopus pump, 2 x heaters, return pump and custom built canopy and stand.
Livestock includes, 1 Foxface, 1 regal tang, 1 yellow tank, 2 clowns, six line wrasse, blue cheeked goby and brown blenny/goby. Boxer shrimp, cleaner shrimp and dancer shrimp.
Flat live rock, however, I do not know the weight.
Lighting: 3 x Sylvania Coralstar T5s, 3 x Sylvania Aquastar T5s
It saddens me to put my babies up for sale so please only serious, interested parties need contact me.
Notes:-
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I’ve been requested to write a section on white spot. This is such a common disease but yet so many theories and rumors on the treatment thereof and how this parasite actually get a hold of your system.
Well, I recently lost many fish to this disease :(:( and after doing intense research I think it is only decent to share my knowledge and help out any newbies and even experienced reefers out there.
I don’t see myself as an expert in this field so please feel free to share your views with your own experiences, but will try to set the record straight to the best of my researched knowledge and experience.
I’m going to explain this as simple as I possibly can, so please excuse me if I don’t use the proper scientific names etc.
Firstly let’s get the basics under the belt. White Spot is otherwise known as Cryptocaryon irritans. I will keep on referring to this as WS (White Spot) just because it’s so commonly known as this.
WS is parasites that attack fish under stress (Lower Immunity than normal) that has been shipped or placed from one home to another or water parameters that are causing the fish to stress. Fish under stress has lower immunity and are usually attacked by WS and other sicknesses when in this state.
Let’s clear up the biggest myth!!;)
I have heard many reefers say that: WS is always present in one’s system. THIS IS NOT TRUE! Let’s say for example you have cycled your new system and are now ready to start stocking fish. Before the fish are added the system is indeed WS free. White spot are introduced to the system when fish are added that have not been quarantined or treated properly. Meaning that when you go to a LFS to buy fish they might have been treated for WS and quarantined for a couple of days, but they are in fact not WS free. In most cases the fish are so lightly infected that this cannot be picked up with the naked eye. Especially when the WS attached themselves to the gills of the fish. It is thus always safe to say that fish are always infected with WS if not quarantined or treated to kill all parasites present on the fish.
That is why after adding new fish to a system they pick up WS as their immune system (Stress) takes a bit of a knock and the WS over powers the fish (host). In some cases the WS spot goes away via the fish’s natural immunity but you have to remember that the fish’s immunity does not kill the WS parasite completely. So when your water quality goes down or something happens that affects the fish’s immune system, the WS re-appear. I have heard many reefers say that their fish gets WS for one day after they perform water changes and then disappears, which means that the water temperature (Just to pick one) could have been different and caused the fish to stress and thus the WS to re-appear.
In my research journey I read of many ways to treat white spot and have listed all the methods below:
1.Copper
2.Formalin
3.Copper and Formalin
4.Hyposalanity
5.Daily Water Changes
6.Natural Immunity
7.Fresh water Dips
8.Quinine Based Drugs
9.5-Nitroimidazoles
10.U.V. Sterilization
11.Ozone
12.Biological Controls
13.Medicated Foods
14.Garlic
15.Ginger
16.Pepper-Based Medications
17.MelaFix
18.Mystery Solutions
After much investigation I will only share with you the safest and cheapest way to make sure that all your current and future fish are indeed WS free. So by treating the existing and future fish to be added to your system, you WILL have a White Spot FREE marine tank.:thumbup::thumbup:
My conclusion is as follow:
Some of the option are more deadly to the fish than the actual benefit of trying to kill the white spot, some options are just myths, while some options are safe and very easy ways to treat white spot.
The option to NEVER consider is to try and leave the fish in your DT and hope that its own immune system will fight the white spot and heal itself. Like I’ve mentioned the WS does not die altogether and in 90% to 80% of cases the newly introduced fish will die. Especially with Blue Regals and hippo tangs as they are the most susceptible to white spot of all fish where sharks and rays are the least susceptible.
The best safest option is to quarantine your fish for at least 3 weeks before adding them to your display tank. This can be a simple 2 foot tank with one air stone and sponge filter and heater. There should be no gravel, with PVC pipe for hiding places as it is believed that white spot parasites needs gravel or any rough material to breed. Without the presence of this it will not have any breeding ground thus killing the white spot when dropping of the host to breed and lay eggs in the sand.
While in quarantine the Hyposalanity option as above must be used where the salinity of the water is dropped to 1.009. The white spot parasites cannot survive in these conditions and die. It is critical that the fish remain in the quarantine tank for at least 3 weeks to make sure all parasites have died and to ensure that the fish's immune system is strong and that the fish is eating well.
This quarantine tank can then be packed up and placed in your garage until the next fish arrive!!.
It is this simple. Just remember to treat the existing fish in your system as well. This will rid your system of any WS still in the gravel as they need a host to survive. And without a host they will die within the 3 weeks that your fish are being quarantined! Thus giving you a WS free tank!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::yeahdude::yeahdude:
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I have a +- 700lt reef aquarium with various inhabitants including a bi colour and a pygmy angel. i'm keen to add a flame but am a bit concerned there could be some action from my existing angels who have had free reign in the tank for at least 5 years. any suggestions?
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How would you like a free lifetime supply of
coral or invert food?
Yes, we can tell you where to get all the
free invert food you could ever use.
Not only will the stuff be free,
but we'll tell you how to
harvest all you need, with essentially
no additional equipment purchase required!
Now I'm sure all the invert food sellers will
come out with counter-claims, but consider first
that I don't sell invert food. I have no vested
interest in it, unlike them.
Right now the overwhelming majority of
aquarists in the world have free invert food
and throw it away, regularly!
So what do corals eat? Besides the byproducts of the
symbiotic algae's photosynthesis (sugars & carbs)
most of them strain microscopic or very small
organics out of the ocean currents as they pass.
Do you have a powerhead or any other type of sponge
filter or even a prefilter (cloth type)?
It clogs up and you have to clean it, right?
What are you getting out of it?
ORGANIC MULM! WHAT CORALS EAT!!!
So let me share with you my secret free invert food.
When cleaning sponge prefilters from your
powerheads or other pumps, ALWAYS do it in a bowl
of SALT water from the tank.
Whether you learn or follow anything else I
say or not, this is very important.
If you squeeze your sponge out in fresh
water you will kill most of the good bacteria
living on it and are starting back at square one
when you put it back, without all the good stuff
living on and in it.
So, squeeze your sponge filter (or pre-filter) in a
bowl of saltwater until it is clean and free of
the clogging organic mulm that has filled it up.
Now most of you throw this away.
This is where we change things.
I use a turkey baster to suck up this organic
mulm - biological gold it is - and then spray it over
inverts that need feeding. You'll see closed ones
open up, and open ones open further. Just put a little
over each animal that needs feeding .... note
current if necessary to make it fall on the
mushrooms or whatever.
Save some for night feeders, like large polyp
stony corals (Trachys, Lobos, etc.)
spraying the magic organic mulm over them
an hour after the lights are out.
When basting your free invert food, move around the
tank and squeeze it slowly, so as not to scare the
animals. They often perceive quick sudden motion
or current as potential predators, and retract their
feeding tentacles, or entirely retreat if they feel threatened.
Since these sponges or pre-filters need weekly or
bi-weekly cleaning there is no need to store it.
You can toss what you don't need. I usually spread a
baster's worth over 6 to 12 animals, depending on size.
You will figure out how much, how often, over a short
while. The large, beautiful mushrooms on our
mushroom page (4" blues) were fed in this manner.
So, I'm not saying what the invert food sellers offer
doesn't work. I'm just saying this works
FANTASTIC at ZERO cost.
You'll have to play with this to get
used to how much how often for YOUR animals
and bio-load, but it does work.
I just don't see the sense in throwing out
organic mulm that my corals eat, while
buying organic mulm to feed them.
Now if you have some plankton eating coral and you can
buy some plankton for it, then by all means do so.
But I find it hard to believe some yeast/egg-yolk mixture
will provide them with more better nutrients than what
comes off of my sponge pre-filters when I clean them.
P.S. Remember to always use trace elements, as they
are constantly being consumed by growing inverts.
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check this out its very cool you could almost live in the place..
MEEFISKO - Meerwasseraquaristik und meer ...
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Hi all
I know there has been a lot said about a Bar fridge not being able to cool a tank down sufficiently, so I was thinking about using a small chest freezer.
Most chest freezers have a complete plastic housing inside (so no joins) if I was to coil up say 100m of 10mm ID tubing and then fill the bottom of the freezer with water and place the tubing into the water with air inside the tubing and then allow the water to freeze then couple a 200L/H pump onto the tubing and pass the tank water through the tubing into the freezer which is embedded into the frozen ice and then back into the tank, do you think that this would work.
Is there anyone out there that could work out the BTU rating of a 220L chest freezer and whether it would have the power to cool down the tank without overloading the freezer.
Has anyone else tried this??
I ask because as you know a chiller for a 400L tank will cost around R3,500 and a 220L chest freezer will only cost around R1,800 that is if both are new.
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hi guys:wave2: if anyone has some chaeto in EL and is willing to give some away or even sell some pls let me know.i have a huge amount of pods ect and i would like to add some chaeto with a light to keep them populating.
thanks:)
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It,s black, has legs with little hairs or spikes.
maybe a pincer, only saw it for a second.
Looks like a spider ??
20 -30 mm in length.
And I never bought it !!
cant get to it without destroying my rocks.
Never seen it during the day.
just seen a fleeting glimse under dim light.
Have 2 skunk shrimps that do not seem to be bothered by it and they go in the same hole.
Stow away on my rocks but must have been real small when I got them (9 months ago) as I inspected them quite closely.
Not much to go on but any ideas?
Should I go after it or play it cool ?
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I'm sure some of you guys out there have shone a torch in a rockpool at night and seen millions of little planktonic creatures come to the light?
Do you think I would be introducing some nastys if I scooped these and put them in my tank. was thinking this would be a good food source for corals fish etc?
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Posted: October 20th, 2009, 2:18pm CDT by Wezo
Hi everyone. It's nice to be on masa finally.
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Good day
I am very exited to announce that the very first two policies has been issued on the Marine Insurance Product!!! :slayer: Cover will start on 1 November 2009. The first client signed up is our very own Frans Snyders!!! Thank you for your support Frans, it really means a lot!!!
I would just like to share with you what Frans chose to insure, and what it cost him (please note that what his household and car insurance cost is irrelevant - although I even saved him a few $$$ there as well...;))
Insured Items and costs as follows:
Tank 1 = 1000x600x500 @ R1900 = R12.66 pm
Tank 2 = 1500x1000x600x500 (corner tank) @ R3900 = R26 pm
Reef Octopus TS3 Skimmer @ R2754 = R6.88 pm
2x Tunze Nano Stream 6055 @ R2764 ea = R13.82pm
Seio M1500 powerhead @ R920 = R2.30pm
Polario ML22 @ R3600 = R9 pm
Tunze 7096 Multicontroller @ R1633 = R4.08 pm
150W MH Lighting Unit @ R1400 = R3.50 pm
This brings the total sum insured to : R21635.00
Total premium per month: R78.24 per month :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
A lot of you guys have contacted me regarding this, and I do hope that this will inspire more of you to climb aboard.
If you are not sure what this product offers, you are welcome to PM me. I am busy working on some marketing material, which I will try and post soon.
Thank you for the support guys!!!:thumbup:
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Will i be overstocked?
HI all
I have decided on my final fish list, i currently have:
Midas Blenny
Jumping bean angel
Dotty back
2 green chromis
I have ordered 6 Talbots Damsels as the final fish for the tank,
Tank is 360L with DSB, Cheato and octo Orca 135 recirc skimmer
Will i be overstocked for a SPS dominated tank?
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Posted: October 20th, 2009, 1:35pm CDT by FDB
Hi all.
I'm thinking of adding a seperate tank to my system to host plants in my system array.
I want to add it just before my DSB, but i want to feed it with sunlight.
Are there any concerns popping in your heads about this?
Should i avoid direct sunlight?
Regards
Me.
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Good day all,
I want to build a corner tank.
After a bit of researched my focus changed slightly from getting the perfect corner tank to getting the perfect corner sump designed. I came up with the following which at first might seem like over egging the omelette but hear me out. I'll explain what this is all about.
The main idea for this sump is really simple; build a sump with one compartment for the skimmer (overflow from tank), another compartment for a dsb, and then a third for the return pump. What complicates this small requirement is when you start running the numbers (using the general consensus that you would need 9 - 16 square centimetres of dsb for every litre of water in your display tank) you will see that a 450 x 450 dsb, which was the original size, can only sufficiently support a tank of around 200 litres. This dilemma got me thinking until I came up with the above. In short:
Compartment A will house the skimmer.
Water will flow from A to B to C to D to E to F to G to H then finally to I.
Compartments B, E and H will each be a dsb
Compartments C, D, F and G are only there to assist with the water flow. The main aim being to direct water flow across the entire surface of each dsb. These compartments can probably also be converted into dsb's otherwise it will be wasted space.
Compartment I will house the return pump.
Below you will see a 3d picture of the above:

This type of design will contain a dsb large enough to support a display tank of 461L (giving 11.36 square centimetres of dsb per litre of water in the display tank)
After designing my tank I realised that franssny has the exact same thing so I will drop him a pm to get some inside knowledge ito water flow etc within the display tank. The tank will look something like this;

I would appreciate you guys to give me some input regarding this sump design. I know there are still a lot of improvements that can be done.
Thanks in advance
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Posted: October 20th, 2009, 1:15pm CDT by Pads
I've been looking through a few guys members threads and I see that different people skim at different times during the day. Some only skim at night and others during the day and I have mine running 24/7.
What are the benefits of each?
Turning the skimmer off during feeding is fairly straight forward, but I'm sure there many more reasons.
Care to share??? ;)
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Posted: October 20th, 2009, 12:33pm CDT by Zuna
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Posted: October 19th, 2009, 11:26pm CDT by Jaak
I need an ID on this tang.
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Posted: October 19th, 2009, 11:02pm CDT by Yuri
i like angels a lot so what corals are angel safe
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Posted: October 19th, 2009, 10:33pm CDT by Jaak
4 blue green chromis for sale. Not willing to ship. Could not get a photo of the actual fish as they're in a temp holding facility after my tank popped.
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hi guys bought this guy frm lfs on sun ,it was sold as a phosphorous coral?anyone have it or know its requirements please?
this pic was just after i put it in
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this plc unit has 8 digital inputs and 4 digital outputs. expandable to 24 digital inputs, 16 digital outputs, 8 analog inputs and 2 analog outputs.
can be used to control anything! lights, pumps, auto top-up, auto water change, etc.
and with the expansion module it can do temp, pH, etc..
very easy to program.
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Posted: October 19th, 2009, 8:24pm CDT by ml
Hi all
I have a total of 10 frag for sale. Beautifull growing frags 2cm to 5 cm and 1 big colonie to swop for a softy of coral. this coloni is as big as your fist and still growing


Kind regards
Mornè
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Hi guys,
I am looking into purchasing a RO unit (no i havent had one at all until now - im sorry :( )
So, upon my quest I have come across a 5 stage unit. The unit looks and sounds good. However, while reading the specs of the filters, I came across something that Im not sure about and would like some input.
Here are the specs for each stage (my issue highlighted in red)
Quote:
Stage 1: Sediment Filtration Functions: Removing sand, rust, mud, sediment, etc. in water.
Stage 2: Granular Active Carbon Filtration Functions: Removing germ, virus, corpuscule, other solids and chemical from tap water processing.
Stage 3: Block Active Carbon Filtration. Function: Completely removing bad smell in water
Stage 4: Energy Filter Functions Granular Activated Carbon (1st Layer of cartridge) Most of the home drinking water filters in the market are granular activated carbon filters, Carbon has a long history of being used to absorb impurities and is the most powerful adsorbent known, one pound of carbon has a square area of 125 acres and can adsorb thousand of different chemicals. Egyptians discovered that storing in the water treatment, this filter traps taste, dirt, rust, silt, chemicals, chlorine, and its effectiveness is double in our products as other three most effective element used in single cartridges.
Silica Sand ( 2nd Layer Of Cartridges) Silica is a combination of oxygen and silicon, the two most prevalent elements on the earth. Silica is the mineral building blocks that promotes healthy bone and connective tissue and helps prevent premature aging and cardiovascular and Alzheimer’s diseases. Silica is growing in popularity as a beneficial mineral supplement to reduce the signs of aging. Its porous structure also enables adsorption of bad elements in water . And in one of its unique character, it is always keeps temperature of itself so to keep the water cool and fresh.
Zeolite (3rd Layer Of Cartridges) Zeolite are natural volcanic material with a number of unique characteristics .Zeolites have and unusual crystalline structure and a unique ability to exchanges cation which Are positively charged irons. This substitution of ions enables zeolites to selectively Adsorb certain harmful and unwanted elements from water. Zeolite exchanges sodium ions for calcium ions which result in soft water. Zeolite also has strong affinity for harmful heavy metals such as mercury lead and chromium.
Mineral Sand (4th Layer of Cartridge) Mineral Stone The mineral stone has been regarded as a mysterious stone that as plenty of mineral supplement, it has been widely used in health related product for centuries. It is composed of many health effective elements such as potassium, sodium, calcium and magnesium, it keeps your water stay fresh with minerals.
Stage 5: In line Post Carbon Filtration. In-Line Post Carbon filter removes all remaining deposits giving water natural spring pure water taste.
|
So, would the silica in the filter be an issue?
Thanks
Pic:
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Hi guys. I've got a regal for the past 7 months. he's about 7 to 8cm. his belly seems to be turning yellow. is it possible that he's a yellow belly regal maturing? i've never seen any for sale. is it bcoz they're pricey?
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I've been running a skimmerless mixed reef aquarium for a year now. Prior to that it's been running for 2 years with a skimmer. I religiously do 15% water changes with NSW on a weekly basis. In the last 3 months I started having problems with my SPS corals, resulting in the loss of a millepora colony and an acropora granulosa colony. Last week my prized staghorn, which I grew from a frag, started showing signs of stress, ie. no polyp extension. On friday STN started on the tips and at the base, typical of iodine depletion. The same symptoms as the other 2 losses. I've done a 15% waterchange followed by a 25% waterchange this weekend, and dosed the tank with iodine solution. This seems to have slowed the necrosis down.

This is the coral that is dying.
I'm not confident about this coral recovering, but I would just like to point out to scrubber users out there that this form of filtration comes with hazards. Very few of us measure our total iodine consumption and dose accordingly. What about other minerals that the algae is consuming along with nitates and phosphates? Iron, potassium, magnesium are consumed as well. Are there others? Even with my waterchange regime, some or all of the trace elements have been depleted to dangerous levels. I'm expecting an iodine test kit this week and will post current levels, although they will not reflect the level that caused the onset of STN/RTN in my corals.
I'll test as many of the trace elements as I can. Mg is at 1375ppm, so that's ok. Others will have to wait untill I can find test kits. I've been useing a scrubber for a year now, and am by no means a scrubber basher, but please be aware that there may be serious shortcomings to this system. If anyone can hopefully point me towards other possible causes of this problem, I'd be very happy indeed.
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Posted: October 19th, 2009, 2:26pm CDT by FDB
Hi all.
To continue from the newbie section.
I have an area in my house which is actually a kind of section that is supposed to be used for indoor plants.
I want to convert that into a reef tank area.
If i cover the surface area of the place, and add a 70cm high tank on it, the volume gets to +-2100L
This project will obviously happen over a few months as i want to do this correctly, so i have decided to do all the planning and excecution checkpoints on this site with the help of you guys.
I'm no reef tank guru but am learning fast (i have an experimental small tank already).
Below is an illustration (top and side) of what i plan to do.
I'll draw a 3d picture just now and upload it too.
First up, i need to know how deep the tank must be so i can know what the weight is (at 70cm the weight would be 2.1Tons) and the tank must be built with 13mm glass.
at 2.1T i need to expant the area i have now with double bricks and place the base of the tank on a thick rubber sheet on bricks and Lintels.
So this part of the project comes first.. Making sure the tank will stay up there.
Secondly will be the planning for the area under the tank that will host the goodies (pump, filters, skimmers, etc)
If you have ANY suggestions, please let me know ok (PRETTY please)?

I'm in Pretoria in Moreletta Park if anyone wants to pop over to have a look at the location and help me brainstorm this.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Regards
Francois
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Good as new with all manuals, cd`s etc.
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Hi all,
A question - how can one silence a "drop out" overflow system, and how does one prevent bubbles going into the 1st chamber from the drop out piping?
I have a drop out box located in the back right corner of my tank and the tank is drilled at the bottom. Water flowing over the top makes a huge noise and above all else it creates allot of air going into the sump which causes allot of bubbles popping in the sump and splashing onto the sides and over the sump. This is a huge waste of water to me. Also increases the salt creep in the area!
How can I "soften" the noise of the overflow and how can I get rid of the bubbles going down with it?
My piping is run down into the sump and just below the water level in the sump.
Thanks in advance
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Posted: October 19th, 2009, 12:18pm CDT by FDB
Hi all.
I'm new to the site.
Want to build a 2500L tank and need PLENTY of advice.
Cannot afford to make mistakes.
:-)
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One of my wrase's has taken "ill" this morning his gone from his healthy green colour to "white" this morning and the other fish are chasing after him? He still swims strongly and has hidden in the sand again. Last night he was still in great shape.
What do i do to help this poor fellow? (my first sick fish)
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Dear reefers,:wave2:
We please to announce our next livestock arrival date: 21-Oct-09 from Singapore
All livestock are MAC approved (
www.aquariumcouncil.org/)
A small breakdown::thumbup:
· Angels Navarchus, adult and juv. Emperors, Blue lined angelfish, Potters Angel, Flame Angel, Blue face Angel, Ear spot Angel, Blue lip Angel, ext.
· Tang and surgeons Yellow, Kole, Naso Blond, Tominis, Orange shoulder, Powder black, chocolate, Scopa, sailfin, ext.
· Clowns Fire, percula, skunk, ext.
Prices will follow on Thursday afternoon.
Cheers
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Cleaner shrimp is full of eggs, confirm all will end in fish food?......:wave2: No Chance of adding another tank onto the main system to even try and to raise one lightie? :1:
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Last week I got a pair of Purple firefish and a yellow tang (R390:yeahdude:) from this MAC shipment that came in, and I can honestly say that there was a big differance in the condition of the livestock upon arrival. The fish were eating well 2 hours after introduction, you can see they are very active and I believe their was a big differance in welfare of the LS. Bags were well packed, after arriving in Durban the parcel still had to travel by road to RBAY, so I guess they were in the bag for another 14 hours. Water was still cool, and appreantly fish are not sold unless they are eating 100%.
I think all of us as responsible reefers should now insist on only buying MAC approved stock, it us reefers who are fuelling the cynanide and chemicals on the reefs as well, and we are responsible for what we do as end users. MAC livestock is all certified net caught, and I promise you now that I will not buy anything else for my tank, unless it is MAC approved, or propogated/cultivated in a tank. The reefs are now in our hands

,
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Have a great day dude and may you see many many more:thumbup:
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Posted: October 18th, 2009, 8:41pm CDT by ml
Hi all
I really need some advise of help form you guys because I tried my one and it's not working it's only improving looks for 1-2 days and then the flatworms are back :(:(:(. CAN ANYONE HELP ME
Thanks
Mornè
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Hi guys, I not sure if there is anyone in the same position as me, if so I hope to hear from you.
Since we been not allowed to get water from the research lab anymore (a good few months now) I was forced to use NSW from the 2Oceans, my tank since this has been turned HORRIBLE, loads of cyano and green hair algea all over ????
I'm going to invest in an RO machine but I would really appreciate if you guys can give me some guidenence on the process of mixing you own water?
How long should/can it stand ? when to add your new water? Extra additives required when not using NSW ???
Thanking you in advance for any valuable tips for me.
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Hi guys as your'll know in my other thread I've been battling to get a vehicle for my parents and they like the E 270 CDI - I found a dealer in Durbanville that is selling a E class at a good price but coz the ad is in Gumtree some are fraudulant ads there, so is there anyone in the area that is willing to check if this ad is legit or not? If everything is in order I can take a flight down or something to that effect - just to make sure there is such a vehicle in the first place will be appreciated instead of me travelling 1600 kms for nothing - spoke to chap on the phone but seeing is believing! His name is Anton and apparently mainly deals with Mercs - Anyone here know him or willing to check it out for me please?
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Hi guys id like to hear from personal experience wich lion i should get
im thinking or a
dwarf zebra
or a
p.volitans(when it gets to big get it a new home)
so i want personal experiences.
the tank is about 115 liters and is running a filter system thats overrated for the tank.
i read somewere that dwarfs are very inactive anyone that can tell me if its true or not? And is it worth it to get a really small p.volitans and then get it a new home when it gets to big
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Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: 3 foot tank
Location: roodepoort
Shipping or Collection only: collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: standard 3 foot tank with metal stand,canopy with single flourescent light,undergravel filters,air pump,heating element and 30kg fine black gravel(new).all for R250.
Notes: -
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Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: Few things for sale
Location: Jhb east rand
Shipping or Collection only: Collection only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Sup guys
I've got a few items for sale as follows:
1. 114L hexagonal tank and oak cabinet for R600
2. Reef octopus BH100 Hang on back skimmer. rated for 250L - R500
3. 2x luminarc MH reflectors
4. 1x 400w MH balast with 14000k bulb
Thanks
Notes: -
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Well, my tank is 4 weeks old - got a clown in there. It's happy as a pig in the proverbial pooh.
Added another clown, and within 5 hours, 'twas dead...
Original one is still swimming around as if nothing happened....
could it be that i spent a bit too little time acclimatising the little bugger to the tank (30 minutes on drip, then 25 minutes on slightly more than drip then treansferred over to the tank and he looked very happy...)
Or could it be something else? First clown is still very happy and swimming like Monsieur Phelps add over the place...
Please help!!!
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Hey guys
Just a quick question. I have two common clowns and they thought that the goniopora is an anename, so I bought a purple tip for them a week ago. The problem is they still think it is a ananame. How long will it take for them to see that there is a anename there?
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Hi all
Already got so much going, BUT then got a phone call from a friend and he's going away.
So got this from him. Was used for fresh water fish.
1800L x 600W x 700H
:void(0)" target="_blank">
And a 2000L/H canister with UV
:void(0)" target="_blank">
So, use it or just put some koi's in there, lol
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Hi there...i've been just wondering about the Ca and Kh...as i know the optimal Ca in the tank supposed to be 350-400 and the natural see water it's about 7 dkh...in my tank the Kh normally it's 8,but sometimes i use the Kh buffer and than the Ca it's drasticly dropping...logicly if im raising the Kh i should put the Ca buffer,but on other side i dont see the sens to do it,couse as i think im doing unnesesery waist of two buffers...i've read that it's good to rais the Kh even to 14 ,but than one must put the extra calcium to get the 350-400...so in Your opinion,what it's best thing to do,leaved as it is (Kh 8) or raise the Kh with buffer and the Ca to get the book like 350-400...Greatings...Raphael...
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Available at Sams Aquarium: Powder Blues, Copperbands, Flame Angels,Goldhead & Diamond back Gobies, Pepperment Shrimps,Royal Grammas Nemos,butterflies and more. Also this weekend only: Live rock-R59/kg, Yellow tangs-R495!! For more info please call us on 0217122534/0826368990.
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i m interested in getting the a pair of the above , can anyone provides details for me on this fish from their personel experiences
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Posted: October 17th, 2009, 9:40am CDT by Tony
Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: Boyu Nano Cube 24G
Location: Johannesburg Honeydew
Shipping or Collection only: Collection only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Hi All
I have a nano cube for sale. Only R500-00 for the tank, lights and stand. The pic shows the livestock but that has all benn sold. The tank is cycled and is running with the water and lights going so all you have to do is fill it up with stock. Bargain of the century.
Notes: -
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Hey
I was just want to know if you guys think this is possible... As far as I know a skimmer removes most to all of the organic compounds in water, right? Well what if you use tap water in a large drum or holder 100L+. If you run a skimmer in it for a few weeks won't the water be usable for the aquarium?
Thanx:)
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Sending you and your family a warm message for this holy festival of Diwali and here’s wishing you all the joy, success andspiritualprosperity.
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:happybday: guys - Enjoy the rest of the day :party: and may your'll see many many more:mbounce:
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Hi, Just like to know some things. I am trying to figure out the best way to run my tank. I would like things to make sense in a logical way. Please do not try because I say so.
Minus (what we need to take out)
-----
We add N and P to our system by feeding. This will most likely have a N : P relationship if the same food is fed all the time. It would most likely be very similar for every one.
I know that growing plants take these two out in a N : P relationship. I was wandering how close this and our feeding input is.
I see there is a lot of technology happening with N but P seem to be still a problem. or are there good ways to deal with P. Biological?
The only real technology that take out P is foam fraction and algae. In my limited knowledge
Foam fraction does not take out any N or P just the food that causes it. So that leave us with algae. (that is if you mind taking the food away)
If algae need a N : P relationship to grow well eg. in a scrubber or plants in the sub. Is it not a bad idea to remove all the N by other methods. Will this not cause the P to stay behind because the plants cannot utilize it as there is no N.
Plus (the stuff we need to add)
----
Here I have lost the plot completely. The only thing that kind of make sense here is to dose Kalkwasser, change some water and pray. This is very scientific. But it seem to work for most. Can I please have some guidance here? How and why? What is the different methods?
Thanks.
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Posted: October 16th, 2009, 9:41pm CDT by b4
You haven't seen any tank like this before for several reasons. rather than posting pics and spoiling it check out the video, I'm trying to drive up the view count and so far it's working by showing how I build palmtop sps reefs that can be carried around by hand. at least it's new stuff eh?
YouTube - 1 Gallon Saltwater Aquarium and Globe Ecosystems
B
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Hey guys,
im wanting to hear your guys opinions with the following tangs. have you ever kept them? do you have pics? any other comments you might have:)
Ctenochaetus binotatus - Fiji Blue eye
Saltwater Aquarium Fish for Marine Aquariums: Two Spot Bristletooth Tang
Ctenochaetus strigosus - yellow eye
Saltwater Aquarium Fish for Marine Aquariums: Kole Yellow Eye Tang
Naso blonde tang
Saltwater Aquarium Fish for Marine Aquariums: Naso Blonde Tang
cool, thank you!
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Hi All, today was a bad day, I going to give a little info first. I have a 1.5 meter Tank, with 1.2 Sump, Octo Skimmer, DSB, 8 t5 Geissman 54W lamps, 20K water flow. All parameters are great, 15% water change Weekly with Deltec Salt and RO. Aragonite Bed, in Display and Sump. Thats the basic hardware, inhabitants: Tomato Clown Med-Large, Emperor Angel small, Leaf Fish (small) Exquisite Fairy Wrasse (Med) Blonde Naso Tang (XL) Regal Tang (Med) Flame Angel (Med) Spotted hawkfish (Med), Sea Hare, Hermits, Large Long Tentacle Anemone, XL Large 45cm tall Colt Coral, Hammer coral x1, some polyps. Anyway thats basically it. This morning, my tank lights came on 2 by two as usual when the first 4 lights were on. I saw my Large Tentacle Anemone discharge a milky substance, so I worried a little, took a closer look, and he started pulling himself into a ball. So I reached in to net him and quarantine him. While I reached down to get him the net rubbed up against the sea hare, and he went crazy and inked all over the tank, knowing it is not toxic, but weary, I removed him and stuck him in the quarantine tank too. At this time all my fish were awake and chirpy. I then fed them, all of them darted for the food as usual, and ate really well. A few minutes later, my XL Naso Tang started twitching, then swimming from one side of the tank to the other. I watched him for a bit, then he twitched some more, and then more severely, to an extent of swimming into the substrate, then floating up against the power head, helplessly falling to the ground again. I filled another quarantine tank with 1/3 display tank water, and filled the rest up with new salt water, the salinity a little lower, temperature exactly the same. It was soon apparent that there was no hope for the guy. His breathing deteriorated within 1 hour and by 2 hours stopped all together, twitching severely in-between. There we no scars, no infections, not even one spot on him, coat was perfect, tassels from tail where amazing, ate like a pig. I do not know why this happened, and if anyone has any information, I would appreciate it.
Thank you
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Hi reefers
Yesterday Pet Stop email customers got special prices on live stock!!:P
Today you (MASA Members) get your own special prices!!!! :thumbup:
These are the special the email customers got yesterday.
Angel - Pygoplites diacanthus (L) - Regal angel (P) R 425.00
Butterfly - Forcipiger longirostris / medium - Long nosed butterfly R 160.00
Butterfly - Heniochus acuminatus/medium - White banner R 150.00
Eel - Echidna nebulosa - Snow flake eel R 105.00
Fish - Lactoria cornuta - Cow fish R 140.00
Goby - Amblyeleotris latifasciata - Harbour goby R 105.00
Goby - Amblyeleotris ogasawarensis - Zebra goby R 105.00
Goby - Valenciennea puellaris - Diamond goby R 110.00
Goldie - Anthias kashiwae / female - Red perch / goldie R 80.00
Goldie - Mirolabrichthys dispar - Dispar R 98.00
Shrimp - Lysmata amboinensis - Cleaner shrimps (m) R 80.00
Shrimp - Lysmata debelius - Red fire shrimp R 150.00
Shrimp - Stenopus hispidus - Boxing shrimp R 65.00
Tang - Naso lituratus / medium - Lippstick tang R 205.00
Tang - Zebrasoma Desjardinii - Sailfin Tangl/ Medium R 170.00
Wrasse - Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis - Flasher wrasse R 95.00
Wrasse - Labroides dimidiatus - Cleaner wrasse R 60.00
Bring this mail (printout) and get these MASA member special prices TODAY. (while stock last)
Tang - Powder Blue tang - R260
Tang - Sailfin tang - R260
Goldie - Carberryi goldie - R124
Wrasse - Twisti wrasse - R144
Wrasse -Green bird wrasse (male) - R236
Wrasse - Bipartus wrasse - R156
Fish - Yellow box - R116
Angel - Jumping bean - R224
Angel - Emperor angel - Medium - R500
Fish - Lion fish (Volitans) - R192
Fish - Parrot - bicolour - R132
Invert - Red knobbed starfish - R100
Invert - Feather worms - R92
Coral - Cauliflower - R208
Coral - Cladelia - R224
Coral - Nepthea - R224
Coral - Kenya tree - R224
Coral - White sinularia LARGE - R292
Coral - Brasica sinularia - R224
Look out for next weeks 3 shipments!:slayer:
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My Cheato ball got to the stage that I have to split it. It fills a standard 60cm tank.
Collect only, I'm in Moreleta Park, Pretoria East.
PM me, and I will sent address and contact numbers
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What do you use to clean the glass? I have some hard coraline spots on the front that wont come off, and have been use a brush, am thinking of trying a razor?
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This aquarium i got from my uncle, he had it made custom. He had only freash water fish.
I have since then built the stand for the tank. The lighting is all been done by my self and my father, the sump and all the pipping has all been done ourselves, the cabnet wood work we had built from scratch here at home.
the wood was burnt then sanded and varniched. its taken a large amount of time effort and money but its all done now and is looking great.:thumbup::yeahdude:
just need to work more on the reef.
The tanks diamentions are: Lengh 103cm Width 63 Depth 68
The sump is : Lenght 60 Width 45 Depth 45, the sump is +-150L
The light system:2 marine white 54W Juwel aqurium, 2 marine blue 54W jewel aquarium.
There is a skimmer, power head in the tank, two heaters one in the sump and one in the tank.
This whole Tank is DIY:biggrin:
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Not sure if this goes here or under environmental threads
but have a look here
Light Eco Plus product details and Brochure Download!
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Good day.
I have a problem with reg algea in my tank.
What can couse it and how can I fight it?
It is bussy taking over.
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Happy birthday Dude! Have a great one and enjoy the rest of the day!
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OK, so Muzzy Wuzzy decided that he can't bear to part with the tank I was going to collect from him tomorrow. Good stuff Muzzy - we expect some smashing pics in the new year once you've set it up!
What that means is that I need a 2,5 m tank quite swiftly. Anyone have one to sell?
Ideal dimensions would be 2,5m long, 85cm wide and 75 cm deep, but I'm flexible.
I have some quotes for new tank builds, but want to suss out what else is out there before splashing out.
Q
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Hi sponsers,
Could you give me an estament price of one of these badboys?
thank you:)
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My wife came to me and asked!!!
wife: { love can I get some of your marine salt?}
Me: yes love you can for what do you want it?
wife: I want to put it in my bath-water. I hear that salt is good for you skin.
Me: :confused1:SORRY My tropic Marine salt ARE you mad :1hissyfit:or do you smoke.:sifone: weed. That will be the most expensive bath that you have ever take.
:lol2::lol2::lol::lol::lol::lol:
Then to top it se got angry at me you never do anything for me. I meen :wtf:
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Posted: October 15th, 2009, 8:11pm CDT by Pads
Hey guys. I'm a bit of a dunce when it comes to wiring up my MH's.
Got the ballast, ignitor and capaictor just wanna make sure I got them wired right before connecting them. Please check and help.
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i got this snail with some l/r that i add to my tank,i only notes it two weeks later.it like to clime out of the water and sit on the glass for a long time.
what spice is it and is OK for my tank?
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Posted: October 15th, 2009, 2:47pm CDT by Zuna
Hey Guys
Quick question... can i keep these two together.
The yellow is large and is already in my DT.
The Scopa is medium and i just got him.
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do those black and white sea catfishes turn over the gravel or not?
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Posted: October 15th, 2009, 12:44pm CDT by 459b
A pistol shrimp arrived on a piece of live rock and has done a rather good job of digging burrows under and around my liverock. I have not been able to catch it and unpacking liverock to get it is not an option.
I have a good layer of substrate in my tank and made sure that i put all liverock on the glass, not ontop of the substrate, incase something did decide to did under it.
I dont particulalry want the pistol shrimp in my tank but dont think i will be able to remove it. So i am considering getting a goby and making the shrimp/goby interaction a feature of my tank.
Would this be a good idea or one that i will end in regret? My main concern is that they dont pair up and endeing up with the goby digging another burrow soemwhere else in my tank.
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THE UNIT HAZ 3 BULBS 2X 10 000K AND 1 ACTINIC
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My skimmer has stopped procucing skimate. The supply pump and recirc pumps are both working as one would expect. Plenty bubbles but not waste.
What could cause this?
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Posted: October 15th, 2009, 9:45am CDT by neo
Howdy,
I've got this idea for an ATO, let me know what you think.
Get a 220Volt float switch - About R80.
Get an 'interval' timer - About R200
Connect the float to the timer so that it switches 220Volt to the timer when water level low.
Set your timer to run for long enought to get your water level on the mark again.
Thats it.
Basics of the interval timer:
An interval timer is a timer that starts running for the specified time when you give it a supply, only when you reset the supply(off and then on again) will the timer start again. When the timer starts it switches the output contact on and after the time expires the output is off again - the model i looked at switches 220Volt@5amp - should be enought for a small pump.
Fail-save: even if your float gets stuck in the closed position then the timer will only run for the specified time stopping your pump before the floor gets wet.
Add-on: to stop the pump from running dry you can add a "current" monitoring device, also about R200, this thing sits inline and checks the current on the wire and breaks the connection when the current is to low/high, the thory is that the pump will use less current when not working as hard i.e. running but not pumping water, thus you use an 'under current' device, set it to break contact when the current is below ????amp (you have to do some manual measurements as each pump diff),
the reset on this device is manual so you can fix it when you put some RO in your top-up tank/bucket again.
So there, all parts from
www.acdc.co.za, total cost including add-on R600, just need to improvise on mounting the float.
O, almost forget, the timer and current thingy is DIN rail mounts meaning you need a DB with DIN rail or you have to buy a DIN rail strip(cheap).
NEO
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Posted: October 15th, 2009, 9:20am CDT by maj
HI,
Im in need of a 1m or 90cm sump or standard tank that i can convert into sump.
Also looking for a return pump atleast 2000lph
Let me know:)
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Posted: October 15th, 2009, 8:30am CDT by d700
Hello to all.
Yes i am starting my tank today it is a 6ft. I am putting the fine coral sand in then the water then the salt and wait for the cycle to start
Thanks
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Hello everyone.
I am Michael Pitcher. Am new to the site as of about 10 minutes ago. Just started cycling a new 55-gallon tank about a week ago. Would like to turn into a reef tank in a month or more when I can get my hands on some live rock. Plan on purchasing the live rock from Tampa Bay saltwater (It has been recommended to me, but what do you all know of this place?)
Also I plan on adding an under tank refugium and sump. And this is where I have many questions. I have 2 extra 10-gallon tanks which I will be turning into the refugium and sump. My plan for them is to overflow the water into both the refugium and sump (hoping to control the flow into the refugium, thinking of about a 25-75 split.) The refugium will be placed on a shelf above the sump in order to overflow the water from refugium into the pump part of the sump. However I need ideas for what overflows to use as far as gph and so on... Also not totally sure what pump to get (the main tank is roughly 3.5-4 feet above where the pump will eventually be placed.) Any ideas?
Thanks for any help and look forward to hearing from everyone!
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Happy birthday S2:thumbup: Have a great day and may there be many many more to come;)
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Hi all
There are so many type of medicine on the market, what brand do really work.
I purchase a hippo blue tang about 2 months back, did the fresh water dip for 30min and after that into the QT with SG 1.016 and temp of 27 and did water changes every week.
Finlay bring the water SG back to 1.025 and last week it started with the white spots again.
Drop the SG back to 1.16 and temp up to 27 again and treated with Waterlife Octozin for the 3 days and still white spots, so waited 48 hours did a water change and start treating Waterlife cuprazin, still have 3 days to go on treatment but the fish still look the same. Now starting to wonder, is it worth it? Waterlife is expensive stuff.
Has any one an idea of medicine that really works?
Waterlife
seachem
Serra
Tetra and so on
Thanks
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hi i have a jebo 520 skimmer, the skimmer is constantly overflowing and i can't find the reason why??? and any one help please :(
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Hey guys,
I've been a member of MASA for a while and have been following a lot of your threads with interest and must complement you on the excellent advise. I'm currently studying veterinary at Onderstepoort and would like your advise on good marine books to upgrade or current ancient collection at our library. They can be from overseas and should be as comprehensive as possible covering topics such as breeding, coral care, marine chemistry and setup. The newer the publication the better. Also any magazine publications that are worth while can also be suggested. All your input will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Garth.
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I believe a link to this guys tank is on MASA somewhere, but when I was shown this thread yesterday it made me think of Jaco's thread on Dull SA tanks and thought some of the new members would love this. This is Machado de Sousa from Portugals fragging setup. The colours of the corals and the size of the setup is insane! I didnt take Portugal for a Reefing Nation...now I know :)
Here is a link to his thread on Reef Central
Coral Maternity in Portugal - Reef Central Online Community
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Ok so the question now is go with mh or t5? I was going to go with t5 6 t5, 3x 12000k and 3x coral blue, but now i have the option i can add 2x 70w mh with a 14000k bulb what would work the best? Im going to use the mh for other tanks im setting up so i have them, the price for the t5 and the mh is the same! What to do?
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So i went out and managed to get an extreme 200 external. Thing is that pump is driving me mad. everytime i connect the venturi for it to create the bubbles it starts vibrating and making a crazly loud vibrating sound. I got the original pump exchanged for a different one and this 1 is doing the exact same thing. Its so bad that i had it running outside and it could be heard inside the house. These are brand new pumps, striped, cleaned and put back in and its doing the same thing. When its just pumping water its fine as soon as the venturi is connected it goes mad. Anyone know whats the issue?
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Posted: October 14th, 2009, 2:53pm CDT by henk
Hi there,I am busy building a nitrate reactor.what is the best media to put inside.Can you fill it with agronite or is bioballs the way to go.I m going to run it without a controller.Will it work?:whistling:
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Hi All,
Thought I would share the In's and Out's of my DIY Metal Halide! (Some guys I am sure will find it interesting)...so here are some photo's before being assembled into my hood!

The outer case.

Inside the case.

The one side... This is the Ignitor and condenser (I think!!)

This is the ballast (it is the magnetic one)
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My PH is currently at 7.8-8.0. Is this too low? How can I raise it without increasing alkalinity?
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Hi guys, I was just browsing my dry new substrate to examine the particle size and poriosity (if there is such a word :P)
Anyway, came across this little fella... Sorry couldn't get a better photo, but the camera already was set on Super Macro.
Amazing tothink how small these things are really!!!
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146% increase....
Quote:
Eskom’s huge hike
14 Oct 2009 Sapa.
ELECTRICITY parastatal Eskom wants a 45% tariff hike each year for the next three years.
“Let’s do the hike over three years; we’ll smooth it by 45% over the next three years,” Eskom CEO Jacob Maroga told media in Johannesburg yesterday.
Eskom’s tariffs are not at levels that they should be, he said. The current price of electricity is around 33 cents per kilowatt-hour, which does not allow for the recovery of all Eskom’s prudently incurred costs and the building of reserves to sustain its asset base, Maroga said.
Eskom needs a price between 80 to 88 cents a kilowatt-hour. The tariffs also do not support Eskom’s capital expansion programme. It has the option of a once-off tariff increase that will entail an immediate 146% hike in 2010/11.
“This option would impact massively on the economy and on society and so we’ve looked rather at the smoothing option,” Maroga said.
“When we met with Nersa (National Energy Regulator of SA) last year, the … smoothing was seen as an accepted principle that needs to be applied.”
However, even if Eskom’s preferred “smoothed model” is given the green light, the electricity parastatal will still face a cash shortfall of R30 billion. “We will need to close that R30 billion shortfall. At the moment we’re looking at it as a shortfall, but as we get into the next three years we want a solution to close that gap.”
If it has certainty on its tariffs, Eskom can unlock more borrowing. “This application that we have made to Nersa serves as a transition to financial stability; it’s going to be painful, but it’s an unavoidable adjustment for us to secure our future.”
The application is designed to ensure a continued supply of power and intended to set the foundations for a greener future, Maroga said.
The application has also taken into account South Africa’s future capacity needs. By 2020 it will need an additional 20 000 megawatts.
Maroga said Nersa is expected to make its decision about the tariff increase early next year. “Then the new tariff would be implemented for Eskom customers from April 1, 2010, and for the municipalities from July 1, 2010.
“If we can crack this one it will be a bold transition from load shedding to security of supply and a certain future.”
Eskom is engaged in tariff hikes to fund its R385 billion five-year expansion plan intended to avoid electricity shortages that closed the country’s mines for almost a week last year.
Maroga said Eskom has included in its application that a mechanism be found to mitigate the impact of the price hike on the poor. “The free basic electricity allocation is currently 50 kilowatt-hours and we have proposed that it be increased to 70 kilowatt-hours,” he said. The additional cost for this will be funded within the industry, he said.
Eskom welcomes the participation of independent power producers, he said. “But private players expect market-related returns ... we need to make sure that the industry is attractive for private players.””
The Congress of SA Trade Unions yesterday called the tariff hike “outrageous and insensitive”. It rejected the tariff hike request “outright”, warning that “many of the poor will not be able to afford electricity at all, and will turn to more dangerous sources of heat and light, such as paraffin and gas”.
The union federation warned it “will take to the streets and organise strike action … to mobilise its members and the public against this shocking proposed increase”.
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Hey guys.
I can get granular ferric oxide hydroxide at a decent rate but its an import so if we order alot then we'll get it at a decent rate i'm estimating that we can get it for around R275 per kilo which is insanely cheap imo as most phos removers are around R500 for 500g!
just need to gauge who is really interested please "place dibs":razz:
and guys only post that you in if you serious and want it for sure as i want to get an accurate as possible price and i need to know an exact amount to be able to work out a price for us.
I will obviously confirm proper price before ordering and each person will have to send me the money so i can pay for it obviously;)
ok so who wants how much phos remover at R275 per kilo?
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i filled up my tank yesterday with great joy, but spent the whole night not sleeping because thaught my ttank leaking half the time and the rest of the time the noise was just irritating. I usually dont mind water noise but this is just too much. can anyone help me with what i can do to make it better.
The red is water movement and the blue is were sound of a waterfall is generated.
i have a standard odurso overflow in the tank, but if u stand above the tank there very little noise so the noise must be coming from these spots. any idee how to make the noise less?
here is a view of the full system.
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Happy Birthday guys! :thumbup: Enjoy the rest of the day and may your'll see many many more:)
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Hello I am a fish collector in Australia I am seeking to contact any commercial aquarium collectors in South Africa for some our Public Oceanarium customers
Any info appeciated please email
oceanreef@aanet.com.au
Regards Steve
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Hi all,
I am planing to put up a 1000x1000x650 corner tank.
I hope to bounce some ideas around. I have had several marine tanks before all fish though.
I would like to have a corral tank this time around.
I have read a lot about scrubbers and it looks like they are the way to go. I just wonder about what else I need in the sump.
I was thinking that I would need a lot of light in the lid and if I build the tank if it would not be worth my while to make the lid bigger to accommodate the scrubber on top off the lights. so the light can shine from underneath.
Well that is it for now I am sure there will be lots more as the project progress.
Thanks.
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Hi
Few months back at red tide some wale bones washed to shore that was in the sea for a long time and don't even look like bones.
Q: Can I use it for base rock? or would it be a problem with phosphate?
Thanks
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Hi everyone.
I've took on this hobby about a year ago. Have been trying to educate myself but made a few costly mistakes and trusted the LPS way too much. I need some (ok quite a bit) of advise from ppl who actually have marine tanks. :whistling:
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WATER RESTRICTION DUE TO PLANNED SHUT DOWN : 12-19 OCTOBER 2009
We will be shutting down our major reservoir (Durban Heights Reservoir Hills) for inspection, maintenance and commissioning of a new booster pump station. This booster pump station has been designed to augment the supply of water to our Northern areas that are currently experiencing water shortages. – The shutdown will affect the following areas:-
1.Northern areas – ie north of the Umgeni river
2.Central areas – Between the Umgeni river and the Umlazi river and as far west as the Pinetown/Field Hill area
3.Southern areas - From the Umlazi river in the north to Craigeburn in the south
Water will be available, however, we urge you to use water wisely during this period, as the supply of water will be restricted. We will be receiving 30% less than our current water demand from our bulk Supplier, Umgeni Water.
Please do not: -
(1) Wash cars
(2) Water gardens
(3) Fill swimming pools
(4) Waste water in any way. Shower in place of bathing, close the tap when brushing teeth etc.
This restriction is for a period of one week from 12 October to 19 October 2009. We urge you to use water sparingly. During the shutdown, we will be draining the main reservoir and you may experience slight turbidity in the water. Please do not be concerned as on-going water quality tests will be conducted to ensure the water is safe to drink.
Areas that experience water interruptions will be assisted by our water tankers to the best of our ability. If major areas are affected then we will identify water collection points and communities will be informed via radio, flyers or posters.
Should you have any queries or concerns please telephone our Contact Centre on
0801313 013 – Toll free.
Affected area's :
NORTH
-Durban North
-Sea Cow Lake
-Glenasheley
-Virginia
-Newlands East / West
-KwaMashu
-Ntuzuma
-Phoenix
-Inanda – Congo
- Amatikwe
- Ohlange
- Dube Village
- Etafuleni
- Amaoti
- Newtown
- Langalibalele
- Ngonqokazi
-Mzinyathi
-Emachobeni
-Verulam
-Umhlanga
-Mt. Edgecombe
-Blackburn
-Waterloo
-Ottawa
-Buffelsdraai
-Hazelmere
-Tongaat
-La Mercy
-Umdloti
-Westbrook
-Redhill
-Glenhill
-Glenanil
-Sunningdale
-LaLucia
-Summerset Park
-Broudlands
-Mt Moriah
-Duffs Road
-Quary Hts
-Effingham
-Avoca
-River Horse Valley
-Kenville
-Parlock
-Westrich
-Redcliff
SOUTH / WEST
-Westville – Dawncliff
- Landsdown
- Waterfall
-Paradise Valley
-KwaDabeka
-New Germany
-Tshelimnyama
-KwaNdengezi
-Queensburgh – Ridley Park
-Shallcross
-Chatsworth
-Welbedacht
-Northdene
-Klaarwater
-Nagina
-Marinhill
-Mpola
-Hocking Pl.
-Clermont
-Westcliff
-Umlazi
-Golokodo
-Folweni
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Plate Coral
Hi Guys,
Got home last night and had such a laugh. My plate coral was clearly hungry and looked like an open vagina. My wife was aghast. I'll upload some pics tonight when I get a chance. I'm still laughing at the sight!
The funny things live creatures can do!
:razz:
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Hi Guys,
Got home last night and had such a laugh. My plate coral was clearly hungry and looked like a fanny. My wife was aghast. I'll upload some pics tonight when I get a chance. I'm still laughing at the sight!
The funny things live creatures can do!
:razz:
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Hi guys
Everybody knows by now that Eskom is going to increasing the tariffs AGAIN!!:(
So i was think...what are you going to do to make your tank low on power consumption or what are you going to do to boycott eskom
I know frans is going to experiment with some solar panels and batteries
Looks like guys running big closed loop pumps like myself will have to change to internal flow pumps again...like tunze,vortech or polaria(lower power consumption)?
What is your take on this?
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My tank is running for a week and now suddenly a type of brown algae starts to pop up everywhere. Is it normal for a new tank or is it a problem?
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Hi reefers
You are constantly asking for a complete list of stock we have.
This is very difficult due to the speed that we sell our new stock!
We have made this list on 2009-10-10
So for what it is worth this is what was in stock and forsale (healthy and ready for your aquarium!
Invert's
Group - name - Scientific - Stock - Price from
Crab - anemone crab - Neopetrolisthes maculatus - 10 - R 95.00
Crab - decorated - Camposcia retusa - 2 - R 125.00
Crab - HERMIT - 65 - R 55.00
Cucumbers - Synapta sp. - 2 - R 120.00
lobster - RED lobster - Enoplometopus sp. - 1 - R 175.00
Shrimps - boxing shrimp - Stenopus hispidus - 2 - R 110.00
Shrimps - Camel back shrimps - Rhynchocinetes durbanensis - 2 - R 75.00
Shrimps - cleaner shrimps - Lysmata amboinensis - 22 - R 140.00
Shrimps - Fire / Red / White sock shrimps - Lysmata debelius - 2 - R 250.00
Shrimps - marble/saron shrimp - Saron sp. - 2 - R 95.00
Shrimps - peppermint shrimps - Lysmata wurdemani - 4 - R 150.00
Snails - Algae eating snails - 27 - R 55.00
Star - sand sifter starfish - Astropecten sp. - 1 - R 110.00
Urchins - 4 - R 110.00
Worm - COCO / calcerius tube worm - Protula sp. - 9 - R 295.00
Worm - Tube / feather worm - Sabellastarte sp. - 20 - R 110.00
SOFT CORALS
Common - Scientific - Stock - R = FROM
Coverdularia - greenBriareum sp. - 3 - R 120.00
Kenya tree - Capnella sp. - 2 - R 220.00
Blue xenia - Cespitularia sp. - 4 - R 160.00
Colt corals - Cladellia sp. - 4 - R 145.00
Green daizy polyps - Clavularia sp. - 2 - R 450.00
Colourful gorgonian - Diodogorgia sp. - 2 - R 450.00
Spagetti coral - Lemnelia sp. - 1 - R 285.00
Green lobed leather coral - Lobophytum sp. - 7 - R 380.00
Broccoli coral - Nephthea sp. - 1 - R 285.00
Coverdularia brown - Pachyclavularia sp. - 80 - R 30.00
Mushroom leather / toadstool coral - Sarcophyton sp. - 9 - R 125.00
Cauliflower - Scleronephthya sp. - 13 - R 75.00
?? - Sinularia brassica - 4 - R 140.00
Leaf leather coral - Sinularia dura - 3 - R 140.00
Leather coral - Sinularia sp. - 21 - R 160.00
Christmas tree - Studeriotes sp. - 1 - R 195.00
Xenia - Xenia sp. - 4 - R 170.00
Green star polyp - Coverdularia sp. - 2 - R 380.00
Coloured mushroom - Discosoma sp. - 39 - R 120.00
Coloured mushroom - Rhodactis sp. - 21 - R 95.00
Multi-coloured mushroom - Rhodactis inchoata - 24 - R 75.00
Recordia / yuma - Recordia sp. - 12 - R 120.00
Coloured polyps - Zoanthus sp. - 47 - R 140.00
Rubber polyps - Palythoa sp. - 2 - R 320.00
Yellow polyps - Parazoanthus sp. - 5 - R 260.00
LARGE polyps - Protopalythoa sp. - 22 - R 380.00
Snake plolyps - Isaurus sp. - 2 - R 400.00
Green giant elphant ear - Amplesidiscus sp. - 2 - R 590.00
Sponges
Chili sponge - Nephthyigorgia sp. - 1 - R 185.00
Yellow Sponges - 6 - R 120.00
Anemones
Anemones - 14 - R 220.00
HARD CORALS
Common - Scientific - Stock - R = FROM Anemone/hammer/torch/anchor - Euphellia sp. - 19 - R 175.00
Bubble corals - Physogyra sp. - 6 - R 120.00
Large Bubble corals - Plerogyra sp. - 5 - R 220.00
Fox coral - Nemenzophyllia sp. - 1 - R 390.00
Doughnuts RED coloured - Trachyphyllia sp. - 6 - R 395.00
Large brain - Manicina sp./Calpophyllia sp./Symphyllia sp. - 6 - R 290.00
Brain - Erythrastrea sp. - 8 - R 120.00
Multicoloured corals - Mycedium sp./Oxypora sp./Echinophyllia sp. - 29 - R 75.00
Cup coral / Pagoda - Turbinaria sp. - 7 - R 270.00
Montastrea sp./Favia sp./ - 15 - R 195.00
Acanthastrea sp. - 18 - R 165.00
Lobbed brain - Lobophyllia sp. - 7 - R 120.00
Doughnuts - Trachyphyllia sp./Cynarina sp. - 3 - R 350.00
Candy cane Green and 2 coloured - Caulastrea sp. - 25 - R 95.00
Blastomussa welsi - 15 - R 195.00
Daisy / flowerpot coral - Goniopora sp. - 9 - R 65.00
Crystal/starburst/duran coral - Galaxea sp. - 2 - R 295.00
Blastomussa welleri - 4 - R 295.00
Lettuce coral - Pectinia sp. - 2 - R 240.00
Worm rock Porites sp./ Spirobranchus sp. - 1 - R 295.00
Slipper coral - Polyphyllia sp. - 2 - R 225.00
Sun coral - Tubastria sp. - 1 - R 295.00
This is the inverts and corals
Fish to follow in next post.
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Posted: October 13th, 2009, 2:58pm CDT by maj
Hi,
Im starting out with Marine tank for the 1st time.
I was given a HOB skimmer(ViaAqua) to use for my 1.2m tank
also got the Atman EF 4 external filter
Biological filter
some pumps aswell,not sure of the specs as yet,will confirm later.
My question is,will i need a sump or can i run my tank without one?
what will be the pro's and cons of this.
If needed,where can i get a sump made?
sorry if these are answered elsewhere on the forum.
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Posted: October 13th, 2009, 2:52pm CDT by maj
Hi All,
Iv decided to start a marine tank,only thing is i need all the help i can get!!
iv got a 1.2m tank,not sure the exact dimensions as yet.
Things that i know so far is about cycling and maturing a tank(this is what iv learnt by reading,yet to do)
i have got the 1.2m tank with metal stand and having a cupboard built around it.
Got a ViaAqua multi skimmer HOB.
Atman Ef4 canister filter
Need all the rest.....and lotsa help!
Great forum
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Any of the sponsors stock these. Please PM price
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Hey , was wondering i want to create a dsb in my displaytank i curently use fiji pink aragonite and have 25kg more that i want to add to the DT
1. do i have to move my LS
2. will it create a nitrate spike?
I want to change my sump aswel, but first want to establish a DSB in my tank before putting in the new sump, what would be my best options?
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Posted: October 13th, 2009, 10:33am CDT by Drk
Hi one of my friend is looking for a pink tail triggerfish can anyone assist
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Happy birthday guys - may your'll see many many more and enjoy the rest of the day!
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Hey guys what is this Euphyllia coral
Its at our pet shop and im interested. I think it could be a torch not too sure????
Sorry about quality was taken with my phone
Cheers bux
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Hi Guys
I'm considering using building foam/sealing foam to cover my overflow pipe of my display to make it more discreet. I apologise as i'm not certain of the name of the foam again as i dont have it with me, but its the foam that comes in an aerosole can and once u squirt it out it expands to about 3 x volume. I intend to then cover the foam around the overflow with coral chips.....trying to replicate live rock around the overflow.
I know Sean K used this to cover his plumbing in his tank.
Can i put this in my tank once it has dried, must i wash it a few times, should i be worried about any possible toxins, any other precautions i should take before inserting the overflow into my tank? Shot!
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Hey Guys,
I have a common clown that wouldnt even swim to the side of the tank where the anenome is situated... I decided to see if perhaps I could give them a bit of encouragement, I took a guppy breeding tank, its a square fairly large mesh hook on contraption, I put the anenome in the tank, he took up half the space, I then added the clown fish, left them together for a few days, the clown fish started to swim through the nennie, and started to take to it... I then put them back into the main tank, now 3 days later the little clown fish is nicelt nesstled in his anenome... I also struggled to get the anenome to take to a spot in the tank, I managed to get hold of a nicely sized smooth rock, which I placed in the soil, and he seemed to attach to it and has happily stayed there ever since... Perhaps this all just luckily worked out, but its worth a try?
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Hi Can somebody please identify this worm
Is it good or bad
Attached Files
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I have more pistols again, and struggling to trap them, previously I had caught them with the coke bottle trap very quickly, moving rocks is not really an option, the shrimp/s are about 20mm long, I know it's not that big yet, but I want it out.
I just wanted to see if any one has any other methods to get them out, besides coke bottle and a trigger in the tank.
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I saw yesterday one of the hermits (local green legged with yellow spots) catch a goldie, the goldie was lying on the substrate between some rocks, and the crab came behind and actually caught the goldie by the tail. It held it until I could intervene. Has anyone else had the same? The hermit is a bit smaller than a R5 coin.
Anyone else had hermits catching fish though?
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The day my previous tank cracked, I had to move all the sand to buckets while I wait for the new one to arrive. The sand has been in the buckets for about 3 weeks and obviously everything in it is dead. This is CaribSea Aragonite and it was in the system for about a month. Yesterday I placed it back in the new tank after getting rid of most of the water it was in. It obviously smelled a little bad.
I ran the skimmer in the tank for the night to try and clean it up a bit. My question is, can I still use this aragonite? I'm sure that ideally it should be replaced.
Any suggestions?
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I bought a pair of pyjama cardinals on Sunday (as well as some other fish). Was only going to take 1, but bought the pair as the lfs guy said they need to be in pairs or more. Got home and one of the pair was already looking like it was dying. It was swimming upside down and sometime just lying on its side motionless. I knew it was on its way out.
I contacted the lfs and they said I should see if he makes it, if not can come back and chat to manager. I acclimatized for about an hour, and then added the fish to my tank. As soon as it went in, the powerheads blew the fish around, and it died.
Now the other cardinal is not looking to great either. All it does is stays in a low flow area in the top corner of my tank. Its not interested in food, and hasnt moved from that spot since yesterday afternoon. The other fish I bought are all fine.
Is this a result of the pyjama cardinal not being with more of its species, or is this a sign of another unhealthy fish? I am concerned this fish might not make it either. What should I do?
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Somewhere there was a calculation posted to determine the ideal width of the overflow. Anybody got a link to it?
A too narrow overflow and the water height above overflow will be too high. Too wide, should not be a problem but who wants an extra wide overflow that takes of valuable display area?
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Have seen a few other tanks in the area, and have seen some really sad ones. Tanks where the whole tank is red and dark from cyano/algea, others where the clowns hosting in the nemmies, and the nemmies are half the size of the clown, sometimes feel sad seeing some other tanks.
You ever get the feeling where you want to take over and rescue LS and save nemmies, or confiscate the tank.
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Fish for saleCommon Name: Queen angelfish
Scientific Name: Holacanthus ciliaris
Size of fish +- 15cm
How long have you had the fish? 1 year
Is the fish eating? like a pig eats everything
Shipping or Collection only: collection only
Your location. durban
Price: 1250 excl shipping
Photo's: 
Notes: Hi guys i selling my queen angel fish , shes in very good health and eating very well.
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How many of you have taken a volt meter and checked for current in your water.
I tend to have no shoes on when i'm around the tank. I kept getting a tingle in my fingers. Took the volt meter and found out there was 24.5 volts. sorted out the problem now its 2 volts.
Just want to know has anybody else taken the volt meter and checked.:y13:
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HI everyone I changed my aquas-capping over the weekend, what do you think is it looking better or worse then it where?
Any suggestions?
This is before the weekend.
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After the weekend.
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In this hobby there is always osmething else.
I am really struggling with water quality ie RO water. I just cant keep down the ppm. See below
"I am hoping anyone can assist.
I live out in the Kruger National Park and run a huge Marine Fish Tank. The tank has been very costly and has taken about 2 years to set up. While I do everything I can the tank will just not go to the next level. On investigation it turned out its my water.
I current have 120 litres of resin to soften my water , this is then pumped by small pressure pump through 6 filters ranging from Micro filters up to carbon. The water is then pushed through 2 x RO membranes one high volume and one standard volume. The water is then sent through another 2 litres of DI resin and the final result at best is about 11pm and rises to 30ppm before I do a full back wash and flush.
My actual water is pumped from boreholes and ranges in total hardness from 1800pm up to 2300pm in the dry season.
I am desperate to resolve this problem as I have started losing some very expensive corals due to water quality.
I need my water to come out with 0ppm and climb to no higher than 5ppm. I need to produce a min of 50 litres per day but would prefer about 200 litres per day.
I was told on Friday that I should install a salt water RO membrane and unit. I need help either way, I would like to find a cost effective solution if possible."
If anyone can help and has sound knowlledge and costs I need help soon before I loose my lovely new SPS corals.
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Finally! On Friday I picked up the reinforced stand. They added more bracing in the middle and front. On Saturday the guys from NAAC delivered my new tank as well. Thanks guys! The new tank looks awesome.
Pics to follow.
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Happy birthday guys - have a great day and may your'll see many many more!:slayer:
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I've decided to go for a sarcophyton as a focal coral in my tank, and have been reading up on it. I understand it secretes terpenoids which affect the growth of other corals, especially hard corals which i intend to try out in time. Am I right to say the best place for this dude is close to the overflow to reduce the amount of toxin in the water column ? . . . Now how to get rid of it in the sump . . . Other than charcoal are there any other ways to neutralise this chemical warfare before it gets pumped back into the display ?
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What is the maximum flow that 50mm pipe can handle when used for overflow?
So where the flow is not pressurized or pumped, just flowing under gravity.
I done a test yesterday, using a lot stronger pump in the sump. What I found is that everything do balance out but the water level in the display did rise with more that 10mm and my sump run emptier. so the water height above the overflow increased.
When I run both my old return pump and the stronger one, the effect was more. Display level increase more, sump even more emptier, and the height above overflow was about 30mm. This increase in display tank water level obviously do start to put pressure on the overflow pipe, forcing a higher flow.
So to ask same question differently.
What should the flow rate be for a 50mm downpipe to allow water level to be maximum 5mm higher than overflow pipe?
Thinking more about it, it got to do with the length of the overflow area. Shorter area will have higher "head" and a wider area a lower "head" height. So how do you calculate the overflow width?
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Hi I'm looking at buying a 6ft x 2ft x 2ft fish tank that is empty but contains 60kg of fiji "Live Rock" The tank has been empty for about a year is there any way of getting the rock back to life, ive heard that it could be done by addin live rock to the dead to re seed it is this possible???
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So, I got the glass silicone it and there it stands.
Sump got me bit confused, so small lol. Any ideas??
tank L 500 H 500 W 500
Sump L460 H 400 W 300
Jebo 1802 Hang-on skimmer
Titanium 150 W heater
And sump
Thanks
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Two nice tanks
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Good day!
I've decided to move some of my "frag farm" post to a new thread!
I've started to make some fake rock a while ago!
First it's cured in fresh water for 10-12 weeks. This is done to get PH levels down...
After this it's moved to the salt water tanks.
These tanks got some LR in them, which I now use to seed the new Rock!
Seeding tanks:
Filters
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found this on the web
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Hi all
Got a musica with green polyps and something is grrowing.
Maybe still to early to ask
And should I keep this worm?
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Congratulations to mnd123 on winning the funniest pic competition sponsored by Sean Koekemoer
Nude chick in bondage

Please contact Sean to receive your prize. :)
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Check out Channel 261. Shows Story about Norway- starts 08h00 to 09h00
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
Please vote if you would like any of these pics to appear on the calendar.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
Please vote if you would like any of these pics to appear on the calendar.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
Please vote if you would like any of these pics to appear on the calendar.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
Please vote if you would like any of these pics to appear on the calendar.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
Please vote if you would like any of these pics to appear on the calendar.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
Please vote if you would like any of these pics to appear on the calendar.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
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PLEASE NOTE: If you do not like any of these pics then please do not vote, go through all of the other threads and please vote for your favourite 13 photo's. Thank you.
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Posted: October 10th, 2009, 2:18pm CDT by Tony
I've seen a few guys running their Vortechs without the cover. The increase in power is incredible but I keep worrying that my fish will be turned into sashimi. So, who runs their pumps without the covers and have you had any casualties as a result?
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Happy birtday guys, hope you have a good one :happybday:
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 2:39am CDT by aslam
Hi,looking for a 500mm by 500mm piece of Abs sheet.Will pay cash.Thanks.
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Hi all,
I'm in the market to purchase a new fridge as my old Defy is just not cutting it anymore:(
I'm wanting to buy something decent that will last a few years, preferably have a water dispenser (for beer:thumbup:)
and must be 100% frost free!
The door also need to be reversible (hinging on the LHS) and my allowable size is 1880(h) x 600(w) x 760(d)
oh ye, it must be a "combo" with fridge on top and freezer below.
This is what I've seen so far.
The second Samsung and both LG's are a little over spec on the hight:whistling: maybe a plan could be made:whistling:
Samsung
a sleek and slim 400lt frost free combi bottom freezer. RL40SBSW - bottom freezer combi - refrigerator | SAMSUNG
430l frost free combi bottom freezer RL43WCIH - bottom freezer combi - refrigerator | SAMSUNG
LG
LG Electronics ::#
LG Electronics ::#
Any advise will be appreciated!
Thanks
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 11:12pm CDT by deang
Hi, tank been running for a month now.
Got some Zoos, Turbo snails and Feather duster worms - all working great. Awesome lumunous colours on the Zoos - Greens, Purples, Oranges....
Will upload pics when I work out how.
:1:
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 10:49pm CDT by Drk
Lets see if we can get all the members on MASA that is on facebook to join the MASA group.
MASA | Facebook
Let see how far we can go the more friend we have on the facebook group the more members will join MASA.
Lets give it a go
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 10:43pm CDT by Drk
I know there are not a lot of lowveld and Limpopo members on MASA. Lets team up and start the Lowveld reef club.
I know of a few people with marine tanks in the area that is not MASA member but we can target thewm also. What do you think.
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I think this guy's rather fond of one type of coral.
YouTube - LPS水槽
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Hello all
I am starting up a small coral fragging farm. The outside building has been erected and we are busy installing the insulation and wiring, hope to be done with this in the next 2 days, if it stops raining.
Waiting to go in I have the following:
2 x 3ft tanks
4 x 4ft tanks
1 x 8ft tank
75 kilo's live rock which is busy curing in a 200 litre drum.
On with the pics....:biggrin:
The bare building
Starting with the roof insulation
Roofing finished, now insulating the walls with polystyrene, fibreglass and thermal insulation foil.
I will update this thread with pics as I go along.:)
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Hey guys
A buddy of mine who has left the hobby but still has all his equipment has offered to give me some of his old live rock which has been sitting in a box since he moved. I currently only have about 16kgs in my tank, have been waiting for finances etc to catch up before adding to my collection.
Obviously all life on this old rock is long since gone, so what should I do to it before adding it to my tank? Would I need to let it cycle for a while by itself or simply wash it in some NSW or RO water to get rid of dust/goggas? Or is it better to simply buy live rock proper? He has quite a bit of it, and it seems a waste to buy 20 or 30 kgs at around R100/kg if I don't have to...:whistling:
Cheers
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 4:58pm CDT by Goby
Hello all reefers!!
Just browsing the forum like any other day looking at gr8 builds and following threads eagerly for new information, tips and tricks of the hobby and off course looking at PICS PICS PICS.
I see beautiful pics of corals, fish and inverts, but don't always see descriptions of what the names of these species is. Normally i would search online encyclopedia's looking for a match to get a name...but this is not very accurate and most off the time ending up with no results.
Just a friendly request, and it would be much appreciated, will the posters please name the corals and fish and inverts and....so that we can learn what they are. And only names for like when there is an individual coral on the photo. Not asking to name each coral when you post a full tank shot :P
I think that it would not only help all our newbies but also more experienced reefers to help ID in the future.
Thanks!!!
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 4:29pm CDT by Zuna
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 3:59pm CDT by lanzo
Hi guys just some more info for you.
The new orca range is coming out with a face lift, it has a new cone transition:
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 3:35pm CDT by lanzo
Hey Reefers
Reef Octopus has done it yet again....a new series that will blow your mind!!!:)
Here we go:...introducing the
CONES......:conehead::conehead:
The primary flaw in most skimmers is that there is too much turbulence with the body of the skimmer. This means that much of the waste that has adhered to the bubbles is dumped back into the system as the turbulence dislodges the organic material from the bubbles surface. Ro solved this problem with an innovative solution we call VBT tech.
This solution signaficantly reduces turbulance within the cone and allows more organic material to adhere to the bublesfor removal.
this is the mosty effective skimmer on the market today.
This is the new space saver cone:
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 3:33pm CDT by ml
HI guys
Just wandering where can I buy one of this unit because I broke myne
Mornè
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Has anyone kept these difficult corals for any extended period of time? I know that phytoplancton is the required food, but it has to be a constant supply.
I'm trying one in my tank. It's been in for a week and seems to be opening. At least what I can see of it, as it was really tiny when I got it. I figure that if it grows, it'll be an indication that scrubber run tanks can supply all the food that our corals need and still remove the unwanted nutrients.

This is the coral a few days after introduction. I'll update on a regular basis.
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Hi Guys - I want to start growing Cheato in my DSB.
I was think of using 3 x Energy Saving Daylight Bulbs
Can the Cheato be used to feed my Tangs and will the addition of Cheato increase pod life in the DSB
What are the differences between Cheato and Caurlerpa - i have heard people say Caurlerpa becomes a pest?
I need some sponsers of Cheato in the Durban area - Im willing to collect. :whistling:
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Hey guys...
Looking again at the stunning TOTM for Oct 09 I again sat in awe to see the colors that the guys have in other countries. (PS- nice tank by the way :thumbup:)
Why do you think they have such nice color available, where we in SA sit with the basic browns and greens... :P Yes I know that there are the exception to this rule, and mostly when it comes to SPS color, but in general, it seems that our SA tanks are absolutely nailed by the overseas reefers. Ours look like the Kalahari vs. thier which looks Puket in Thailand...
Do they maybe have a bigger variaty of color coral available to them?
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Hi Guys
ok so i finally got an RO unit, but here it comes it didnt come with a manual and ive never used one of thesse puppys before
please help ROFL
i have an orange tube that that is disconnected and not sure where it goes.
the blue tube i assume is the outlet for the RO
and i still need to get the connector that fits this thing to the tap.
where and how much?
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Various frags for saleCommon Names: Seriatorpora Caliendrum, Monti Cap, Green thing
Scientific Names: -
Size of frags 3-10cm
How long have you had the frags? 18 months
Are the frags mounted? Yes
Shipping or Collection only: Collection
Your location. Fourways Gardens, Johannesburg
Price: various, but also swop
Photo's: Hey all,
Live in Fourways Gardens, Fourways - thats Gauteng for the salty peeps
Got the following for sale as I need the space in my frag tank when I finally move to my larger tank (Adriaan will be here in 4 weeks w00t!)
Seriatopora Caliendrum (Green Birdsnest - round ended, not pointy like Hystrix). Looking slightly brown under the 10,000K, but look at the mother colony in the background for real colour - got too big for my tank (about 25cm across)
Dont want to sell, would rather swop, but if I must take your money:
4 x Large pieces (5-8cm) mounted: R100 1 x FransSny
3 x Smaller pieces (multiple pieces though) Mounted: R80
2 x Large unmounted: R80 1 sold



Lime Green Montipora
Large frag on LR (8cm): R130 -FransSny
3 smaller frags on LR: R90
2 x small frags on frag plug: R50


Mother colony:

<!-- / message --> <!-- sig -->
Odds and sods:
2 x Red Montipora Digitata small frags on frag plugs: R60

and 2 of these, not sure what they are, but they grow like the blazes, Green mounted on frag plugs. R60

Mothers of both:

Notes: -
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Hi all,
I cannot have one large sump due to cabinet design. So i have taken 3 seperate tanks that I want to interconnect. I have connected the 1st tank to the 2nd tank via 2* 50mm pvc pipes and connectors and it is nicely set and dry (looks great). Now the tricky part that I want to finish tomorrow;
I have noticed that in one large sump you guys have a higher water level in the 1st chamber and as it moves towards the return chamber the water level is lower than in the first!?!?!? Is there a reason for this?
Can I not keep my levels all the same? I know that I can't have the last tank higher, but surely it can be the same as the 1st one?
I can not really drop the water level of my return tank to much lower than the first.
Any advice will be much appreciated.
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Posted: October 9th, 2009, 11:46am CDT by Ratau
I dont have a RO water system yet but Im running a small water distillation unit that delivers ± 5 liter / hour. I use piped on site demineralised water to feed the system, it keep the system clean from lime and other build-up inside the boiler. Is this water suitable for marine aquarium use? I suppose one have to add all the minerals taken out during the demin and distillation prosess. The other option is just plain distilled water. Your advice please.
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So i did a new TOTM design, just wanna gauge who likes and dislikes it, and any suggestions etc
thank
dallasg
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Our Featured System for October 2009 belongs to SunnyX!
Congratulations on an awesome Rimless Reef!

Click on the photo to see the full feature.
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How does one measure the nitrate extraction through a DSB? "exclude Refuges for now" My point is. Is there a formula for input of foods /energy to extraction? How do i know that my DSB is working and extracting nitrate? Is the DSB not just another Buzz word thing? :).
Yes i fully understand the principle/concept. Need something i can relate to.
Does a DSB become saturated and the nitrate reduction reduce or is it perpetual?
Does your LR absorb nitrate and become saturated?
Thoughts that might concern and some ponder on!!!!
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hey everyone. i`ve had a yellow tang for two weeks now. it`s about 5cm in diameter. for the first few days it was eating algae off the rocks and not eating any nori or dried seaweed. it seemed fine. after a week it started getting shy, not eating any more and hiding away more and more. with the great advice Lanzo gave me i was feeding it 3 times a day for the last 3 days(nori, pellets and brine shrimp) the other fish love this... he ate the first meal and not again. from last night i couldn`t see him anymore. decided to remove all the rock today and catch him. he`s in a seperate tank now and the display tanks water circulates trough there but he`s not swimming around. you can basicly put your hand in and pick him up.
is he dying?:(
what else can i do?
ps. he went white after a week but is yellow again now. is that any improvement?
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Hey guys,
just got this frag, can someone help me out by id'ing it for me please?
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So a local reefer is taking down his tank and gave me what is left of his Elegance coral. It was doing fine for years until recently when he had problems with his tank and it has died back drastically...as you can see from the pic.
Do you think I can bring this coral back from the grave? I think it should at least have a fighting chance in my tank with low flow and high nutrients and daily feedings. Its a long shot but its already double the size in my tank that it was in his so lets hope I have success!
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Posted: October 8th, 2009, 4:17pm CDT by lanzo
Hey guys
Finally
CORAL The Reef & Marine Aquarium Magazine is here
I have the whole range in stock since January 2009 until now
We will be keeping stock of them in the future and new issues will come in on a regular basis.
It is a real decent U.S magazine with great photography and excellent articles and new equipment.+-120 pages to read:thumbup:
(issues come out every second month so this is 6 magazines in a year)
Normal price R120 per issue
For this month only they will be R110 per issue
Like always
Dorry pets wants to offer you better prices...so we will be offering these magazine as a
year subscription...saving you up to
23%....yip a year subscription:thumbup:
This meaning that a magazine will cost you
R100 instead off R120 aqnd will be delivered to you
ill post some photo's for you
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Left to Right
Or
Right to Left
This is just something that amuses my mind a bit. I know this is useless thread and useless info, as sump direction do not have anything to do with doing what it should do. But
Almost all sump setups, water enters at the left, and return pump is at the right. Is it because we read left to right?
Mine is left to right, and yours?
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can you help id this worm.. i just put LR into my tank and this guy pops out...
hope the pic is clear enough
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I replace all my tanks water yesterday with sea water. My question are, how long is waiting period before i can put LS in?. Second question are, will the sea water also start to cycle or not?
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Hey Guys
Great to be on here.sentari is my brother and ever since he got his tank i have wanted one.
so i got myself a small Nano and fired it up.
Its been running for just under 5 weeks now, and looking great i think
This is what i have in it so far
13kg's of
LR
1 Hermit Crab
2 Ocellaris Clowns
1 Pulsating Xenia
2 patcches of Zoa's
Not too much for now but once the tank has settled a bit more il throw in a few more lil things
see pics below.
They might nnot be too great but il upload the better ones tomorrow hopefully.
Lemmiw know what you guys think
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I replace all my tanks water yesterday with sea water. My question are, how long is waiting period before i can put LS in?. Second question are, will the sea water also start to cycle or not?
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guys after seeing how everybody responded on the PTA RC official dress (cool caps:yeahdude:) I was thinking who would be interested in a MASA cap....price range would be 25 to 30 bucks !
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Posted: October 8th, 2009, 9:02am CDT by Zuna
Good day Guys
ive noticed yesturday that one of my naso tangs have got little black spots on him
it kind of looks like when fish get white spot but its just black.
does anyone know what it is and should i be worried:sweatdrop:
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as the subject says. looking for someone who has some left overs lying around in slummies.
thanks
Bruce
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HI just looked at my tank and saw all this floating the surface of the water!!
It is green, could it be dead algae??? Why would it die???
HELP!! :confused1:
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ive got a checked wrasse and just got a maroon clown, the wrasse is chasing the clown fish around the tank.
will this stop or will this be a problem??? urgent help please
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Posted: October 7th, 2009, 4:58pm CDT by 459b
Does anyone in the Cape Town area have a small Kenya tree frag they willing to part with?
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Hi my name is Ashwin and i am an reefaholic
my wife is threatening to leave me if i continue with reefaholicism:slayer:
seriously just want to introduce myself and looking forward to healthy relationship with all the members. i live in Durban South Africa and have a 600l FOWL which attained from a previous owner, unfortunately it came along with all his troubles as well, presently trying to convert to reef with endless hassels (will get there eventually)
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Posted: October 7th, 2009, 4:22pm CDT by neo
Howdy,
i'v read a lot on cycling/starting but seem to be missing something:(.
what is the oreder in which i do things?
What do i put in my tank when i start cycling and what do i add later ?
when do i add the dsb sand, base rock, LR, DT substrate ???
must i check water parameters every day from the start?
I've read about cooking of the rock, is this for base rock only and can i do it in my tank while cycling.
I thought of doing the following:
1) Add base rock and do the scaping of it in DT.
2) Add sand to DSB
3) Add salt water over a week's time as I cant make 400l of salt water at once
4) Run this for 3 weeks with skimmer and return-pump but nothing else (no lights)
5) Add some LR and the substrate at week 4 and run for another 2 weeks, also start to switch on lights for about 5hrs a day at this point.
6) After 5 weeks go with full lights, water changes, all flow pumps etc. - everything for normal running except no life added yet.
7) run tank another 2 weeks like this testing water parameters.
OK, i need another way of mixing the salt, can i do this all in one go in my DT while the base rock and DSB sand is in ??
thx.
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Hi guys,
I'm in Umdloti right now (my second day). We didn't have any success with butterflies foreseen on one spot. Caught one (all racoons).
Tomorrow is my last day and 1 low tide. Please can I speak to anyone as i plan to go to Ballito tomorrow, to give me details of the best spot. The low tide window period is very short and the incoming tide strength is hampering us a lot.
My number: 084 599 4511. Who ever can help - my i have you're number?
I need to make the best of my last day!
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hey guys.
iv been curing my rock and its looking very clean! only thing left are these algea stick things. are they bad or can i now put the LR into my DT?
thank you
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Posted: October 7th, 2009, 1:03pm CDT by dv8
hi guy's, could anyone pls tell me what this is and what i need to do to take good care of it, when i got it some time back i thought it was a monty, i think my first assumtion was wrong, as it seems to have small brown polyps on it. i am a bit worried about the "bleached" parts, is something eating it, or is it dying in those parts? pls help
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Hi Hennie, looking at the costs of phosphate removal media I'm considering using alternatives. So far I've come across ferric chloride, aliminium oxide or lanthanum chloride. Do you have any experience in using any of these compounds in aquaria?
Thanks, Mark :)
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Posted: October 7th, 2009, 12:01pm CDT by Ratau
I had some tropical aquariums in the past but Im completely new to the marine aquarium world. I did lots of reading about tank and sump design, skimmers and water quality but believe its only a drop in the bucket or would I rather say aquarium. All help will be greatly appreciated to get going.
I have a 110 litre tank and a 64 litre sump to start with. Need advice on skimmers, test kits, accessories and where to buy.
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hey reeefers
I have liverock that has small zoa, etc on it. came with it when i got the rock?
i dont have place for the rock right now, so im going to keep it in a drum in the garage. only problem is is that im scared the little corals will die,
what cheap lightin can i use to keep the corals going? will normal 6500k be okay?
thanks!
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Hi all
Tank had been running for about 7 weeks now, have 2 clowns, about 6 pr 7 hermits and a few snails. About 16kgs of live rock. Added the fish after 3 weeks when all water params were good, and the inverts a few days later. I feed TetraPrima every 2 days in the morning. Have a TS2 skimmer in the sump with a large DSB which is starting to go black at the bottom (good I believe).
Ammonia 0 Nutrafin test kit
Nitrate 2.5 - 5.0 Red Sea Test kit
Phosphate 0 Red Sea Test kit
My nitrates have been at the same level for about 4 weeks now - is this normal? I have done a 50l water change in the last few days. (Total volume 400l). At present the only flow I have in the DT is from the return - could this be part of the reason? Using aragonite in the DT which the inverts are doing a good job of stirring up and removing detritus.
Seems a bit long to me and I would like to add some more LS soon - possbily a fire shrimp and some fire coral. Any help or advice greatly appreciated :)
Cheers
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Hey guys. I know there was a similar thread like this a while back, but I thought a refresher would be good.;)
All of us, whether we are experience or not, do stupid things in this hobby - I mean off the chart stupid!!! This thread will be a convession booth for these idiotic things we did.
I would like a form of a poll on this after a week, where we could maybe vote for the dumbest thing some-one did. The winner will win a 2010 MASA calender (which I will sponsor:biggrin:)
Only one entry per member, so please do not list all the stuff, only the worst thing. Also, please people do not trash each other for their mistakes!!!:nono: We are all guilty!!!:P Just read what others have done, laugh about it and move on...
PS: I will go first, and this was on request from Frans - so Frans, this one is for you!!!
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Posted: October 7th, 2009, 10:01am CDT by vis
Pretty Cool link i found.
check it out :thumbup:
DIY 4" Needle Wheel Skimmer
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So ive decided to share links of the sites that i use for some online reading.
Would be nice if people gave their input on this and added some more.
Advanced Aquarist
[www.advancedaquarist.com]
AfricanDiver
[africandiver.com]
Reef Hobbyist Online
[www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com]
Ultimate Marine
[www.ultramarinemagazine.co.uk]
Reefkeeping
April 2009 - Volume 8, Issue 3 - Reefkeeping Magazine
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Has anybody figured out a way to re cycle water removed during a WC for re use ?
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Posted: October 6th, 2009, 8:33pm CDT by Afsal
does anyone have one that is not being used anymore. The new ones are just too damn expensive
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Anyone who had problems with these tanks wrt cracks or tank burst, please state the size of the tank, where bought and how long after the purchase did the tank crack/burst.....
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Another question on Dad's behalf: :P
He wants to close up his 3 foot cause he has a wrasse. He has a 150W MH and some T5's. What effect would covering the tank with glass have on lighting? How much light do you lose?
Also, would this cause problems on heat etc? His DSB and his sump is open, and next to / below his DT, so they are still wide open for evaporation.
Thanks guys:biggrin:
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Posted: October 6th, 2009, 12:16pm CDT by Wolve
hi guys im looking for a c02 regulator with needle valve and solenoid, that doesnt cost me an arm or leg
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Hi guys,
Vis sent me this link,,,see he hasnt posted yet so I will. This looks easy enough for even me to do
DIY 4" Needle Wheel Skimmer
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The tank is 500(l) x 400(w) x 600(h) waterlevel is at 500.
i want to keep softies and maybe one or two lps(frogspawn and hammer)
would 4 x 24 wat t5s be fine to light this? I dont want to spend too much on lighting, but maybe if i get four now and only keep softies and get another 2 later on? But what do you guys think?
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Hi all aquarists,
I was wondering the legality to collect specimens off a boat in scuba, I know their are no-no areas (marine reserves) eg. Aliwal shoal etc., but can we collect on random reefs around kzn south coast and is it legal on scuba or not?? everyone seems to have a different opinion?
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Posted: October 6th, 2009, 10:07am CDT by Yuri
what anesthetics are there for fish and what is the best one
Where can i get it
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Hey guys...
As the insurance guy here, I was just wondering about this phenomenon occuring more often lately...
A lot of guys are posting tank bursts / breakages... Sorry to hear bout yours Jaak:(...
It seems the Aqua H2O is propably on top of the list of culprates.
So could you guys please elaborate a bit on tank bursts? Tell us what tank you had, why it burst or cracked and what was lost in the process...
This will not affect the insurance product at all, as we have already prepared for the worst - so don't stress. ;) This is really just an "interesing to know thread..."
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So i have been asking alot of stupid questions lately and its time to show you guys why.
first this is the tank i had
I then wanted a sump and changed this whole tank just too accomodate a sump(this tank will not be used for marines anymore, instead they are going to be used for breeding guppies)
after visiting jacquesb's home i wanted a lion but of course keeping a lion in a 50 liter tank wont work so i set out with a new idee and got a tank built.
This is the new setup so far
The tank is 500(wide) x 400(long) x 600(high) the overflow is 150 x 150 x 500 wich means water level is at 500 high.
Glass is 6 mm thick?(i think)
the extra space is to counter splashing and electricity failure.
the pump will sit in the overflow and pump water up to the sump(how much liters per hour pump?) from were it will gravity feed back to the DT
The sump, the sump is a standerd 2 ft tank wich i put one compartment in. the overflow is only a piece of pipe.
i have baught a skimmer reeftek hang on and when it arrives ill start this baby up.
i have no lights so far still tryna think that through dont want a metal halide tho maybe a unit with four t5's in(would this be enoug?)
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Hi Guys,
I got 2 of these snails from the surf off the coast of Durban. Does any one know what they are and are they reef safe and what they eat and will they survive? They seem to like to bury themselves in the sand. I did some reseach on google and looks like they are a type of "horned helmet snail", but cant find an exact match. Any advise and info would be great! Thanks
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Posted: October 6th, 2009, 8:46am CDT by Jinx
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Good morning masa peeeople!
yesterday evening i went for a walk on the beach with my wife and along the tidal mark, i came across a familiar sight. plough snails eating a jelly fish. if you dont know what they are. they have a greenish shell and a big "foot". they chow carion
would they work in a reef tank? clean up in miff stuff that ends up in the tank. they found between CT and Durbs, so it will be able to survive in our higher temps
Field guide to the Eastern and ... - Google Books
nice CUC!!
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Posted: October 5th, 2009, 12:52am CDT by lanzo
Hi guys
We are busy giving
Dorry Pets website a face lift....:slayer:
Can you please advise if this look is better or if i should stick to the previous one?
The logo still needs to change aswell:)
Poll : (please vote)
Please tell me what you want me to add on my site...or take off...any feedback would be great:)
Thanks guys
www.dorrypets.co.za
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Posted: October 5th, 2009, 10:25pm CDT by Storm
For some reason my Internet is acting up and not allowing me to visit more then half the dam sites out there i need to, to ID Anenomes. Could someone please ID this guy for me while i continue to struggle against the machine (So to speak)
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Posted: October 5th, 2009, 10:24pm CDT by Jaak
What a friggin day! Survived my first day of my new job and driving home all peacefully. My phone starts ringing, it's the wife, I answer casually to hear all hell breaking loose in the background and it sounds like the wife is in a waterfall!!?? She did not need to say a single thing, I knew my tank had just burst!!!! I was 15 minutes away, stuck in traffic. THE LONGEST 15 MINUTES OF MY LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:(:(:(
Yes, I also had a 1,2 Aqua H2O. It even had 12mm think bracing all the way around. It did not crack on the corner, it did not crack down the front initially, it friggin popped a massive hole out the right hand pane!!?? From what my wife explained, she was walking past the tank and saw in the corner of her eye the side pane popping and then the cracks ran down the corner and across the front with 400L of water gushing down the passage, etc...
All livestock was saved. All my fish corals and livestock is now in their temporary home at gawiedj's place! THANKS GAWIE, you're a lifesaver mate!!
So, i'm not throwing the towel in just yet. My sump is running on it's own with some frags in it, etc. I will dismantle this tank and have a new one made up that I will build in December and start cycling in January, i'm just too busy with the new job and December holidays coming up to worry about a tank cycling. I'm already missing my tank, maybe i won't last till january... For the new tank i'm thinking 1500x800x700 in black silicone with full euro bracing etc...
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I am planning to convert my 4ft freshwater tank into a sw.
The DT is 240l and the sump is a 3ft tank about 70l totaling 310l
Here is the problem....
the high in the compartment under the tank where the sump is is 580mm high.
been looking around for skimmers that would fit
so far i come up with the following:
1.) BH-2000 hang on skimmer rated 600l
2.) ORCA-80-INT 255x180x475mm rated 500l
3.) Reef Octopus Extreme Series OCTX-160 230x170x530mm rated 1200l
I was wondering in your opinions and experience which would be the the best and most practical option.
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Hi all,
Been wanting to start a thread like this for quite some time now, (if it seems useless, mods please close) as I would like to "document" how one evolves in this hobby, how our needs changes, how we get screwed over by the LFS and how we eventually get to the system we think will last us forever....yeah right ;)
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hi there. i'd just like to find out the cost of:
1. a 240l tank
2. 450l tank
3. 1.2x700x700
the price sholud include delivery(pretoria area), lights, set-up, and everything except the fish and coral.
please e-mail a quote as soon as possible,
shaakira_yousuf@yahoo.com
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Hi all,
I'm new here and need info and assistace from you.
I want to build a tank with L=2800mm, H=1000mm, W= 600mm.
I'm thinking of using a 40mm for the base and 30mm for the sides.
I need info of how to keep the centre stable and what type of silicone I must use to keep it together.
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just wanted to share with you guys how we do water changes.we have a 1000L flow bin a 300w inverter and a nice pump wich pumps 800L of water in just under 30min.leslie hempel justin mace and myself do a 200L water change once a month and it basicly takes us a a morning or a afternoon for the three of us to do a water change.
here are some picks.

the pump.

the inverter.
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Please guys i need help deciding...
I got the a price to build a new tank...
Length-1300
Width - 800
Height- 700
Then i have seen a second hand tank 4sale at half the price of the new one...
Length-2000
Width - 800
Height- 700
The new place that i am moving into has enough room to accommodate the larger system...
Thanks in advance...
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Posted: October 5th, 2009, 4:41pm CDT by Goby
Helooo all MASA members. Hope you all had a GR8 weekend!!
I want to run active carbon on my system. I want to put the carbon in a filter bag and pull it over the overflow pipe and let the overflow water run straight through. Will my DSB loose beneficial bacteria when i do this?
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Hi,
At last foto's taken from our tank by seun. I have had the tank for 10 years just fish and after we moved to R/Bay wanted to start up again but hubby was not very keen. Just want to say thanks to Sean Koekemoer with helping we now have a reef as well. Ater my husband saw Sean's tank he got bit by the little big goggo.
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Posted: October 5th, 2009, 3:30pm CDT by Manic
Various frags for saleCommon Names: Seriatopora Caliendrum
Scientific Names: Seriatopora Caliendrum
Size of frags 6cm's Tall
How long have you had the frags? 8 Months
Are the frags mounted? Yes
Shipping or Collection only: Collection Only
Your location. Edenvale (JHB)
Price: R100
Photo's: There are 6 Seriatopora Caliendrum frags available:
The one on the left is smaller so it is R50, the others are all R100:

Parent Coral:

Close View of Polyps (Under 20 000K Lighting)
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When I changed my sump over from a nitrate pit to a DSB, I left some of the bio balls ontop floating, to also help seed. I am now due to start taking them out one by one, but now have an idea that it will be more useful to leave them in.
My sump is a standered 4 foot, over a metre of it is sand, even the skimmer sits in a tupperware dish on top of the sand. The return pump is going the same way, so that even the last section will be all sand. The bio balls all float over the first metre, and the water coming out the skimmer, slowly stirs the balls. They do move very slowly and roll slowly over. My view is that they can't trap any detrus at all, the only negative thing is they may block some light going to the cheato. Am I rght in thinking this? If this does not work, they going to the driving range
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Hey guys, just got an interesting fact sheet about marine hazards. Most impressive to me was reading about stonefish - another source stated that it was the worst pain on earth, and most people stung by it requested the limb to be amputated due to the pain. It is even worst than giving birth or burning!!!!
We should really be using care when we work with these animals, I think we tend to become too tame.
Sorry for the long read, and some pics missing on the site... Enjoy though ;)
OVERVIEW OF MARINE HAZARDS
There are a number of hazardous creatures in the sea. Many can cause serious harm to unaware or inattentive divers. Some may even cause death, although this often depends on the amount of venom used, individual reactions, nature of injury and location of accidents (deep water victims often drown). There are four major types of injury patterns from marine life. This presentation will Some basic first aid tips are given, although by far the best policy is not to meddle with these creatures.
CONTACT IRRITANTS
Sea Anenomes and Sea Cucumbers
While most sea anemones are relatively harmless to humans a few do contain strong toxic substances producing quite severe effects. One of these is the stinging anemone (Actinodendron plumosum), a blue-grey to light brown animal which can look somewhat like a fir tree.
Found under boulders and coral, red bristle worms have numerous fine needle-like bristles which break off when they have become embedded in the skin, causing severe irritation.
Although sea cucumbers are one of the safest animals on the reef to touch, the numerous white Cuvierian tubules, which some eject when irritated, contain a toxin which can cause blindness if it comes into contact with the eyes. This toxin may also be present on the skin so you should wash your hands after handling these creatures.
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STINGING CORALS
Although known widely as stinging or fire corals, these organisms are, in fact, colonial animals (
Millepora sp) more closely related to hydroids. Having a hard coral-like skeleton, they vary in form from large upright sheets and blades to branching, finger-like 'antlers' with a yellow-green to brown colour. Effects and treatment are similar to hydroid stings.
CROWN-OF-THORNS STARFISH
The sharp spines of this creature are covered with a thin venomous skin which, if introduced into any wound can cause nausea, vomiting and swelling. Spines may also break off and remain embedded.
HYDROIDS
Looking like feathery plants, and sometimes referred to as fireweed, hydroids are actually colonies of animals equipped with strong stinging cells (nematocysts) used to capture prey and for defence. Some species can give quite severe stings causing inflammation, swelling and pain lasting up to a week. Effects may sometimes be more severe.
Divers are particularly prone to brushing against hydroids. Two species to avoid are this white, fine feathery one and the denser yellow/brown type. They can be found in fairly shallow reef areas and on structures such as wharfs.
BOXES OF DEATH - BOX JELLYFISH

Recognized as one of the greatest marine hazards, box jellyfish
(Chironex fleckeri) kill more people than sharks, crocodiles and stonefish combined.
Each year, in late summer, the adult box jellyfish spawn at river mouths before dying. The fertilised eggs become tiny polyps which attach themselves to rocks in estuaries. In spring these polyps develop into little swimming jellyfish which migrate down rivers, especially with rains, to feed on shrimp. Unfortunately, they frequent beaches which humans also find attractive. The animal does not actively hunt, relying on food to bump into its tentacles. A struggling shrimp might tear a delicate jellyfish, so it needs to be killed instantly, on contact, with a very strong poison.
Tentacles, up to 60 in number and reaching 5m in length, are arranged in four groups at the corners of a box-shaped bell which can be as large as a basketball. The tentacles are armed with up to 5 000 million stinging cells known as nematocysts. These are triggered into action when stimulated by certain chemicals found on the surface of fish, shellfish and humans. Contact with just 3m of tentacles can kill an adult.
Recent studies have shown that the box jellyfish is able to see through four eyes, one at the centre of each side of the bell. How it processes this information without a brain is still a mystery but the animal is able to avoid even quite small objects. They probably try to avoid humans in the water, if given the chance; stings usually occur when people blunder into them. (They are almost invisible in the water.) It is certainly in the interest of the jellyfish to avoid turtles which eat them, apparently unaffected by the stings.
Another box jellyfish,
Chiropsalmus quadrigatus, is generally less common than
Chironex fleckeri, although it may outnumber them on Cairns to Port Douglas beaches. It is smaller, with slimmer tentacles, but the two are difficult to tell apart. There are about 20 species, worldwide, in the
Cubozoa, or box jellyfish, family,
Chironex fleckeri is the most lethal member.
IRUKANDJIS
Although it is more numerous in summer months, the irukandji
(Corukia barnesi) can be found all year round and inhabits all waters. A member of the box family, it has one tentacle at each corner of its bell. It is tiny - only 2cm across the bell - but nonetheless packs a massive punch. Both bell and tentacles have stinging cells.
The actual sting is minor, but 20-30 minutes later the victim begins to experience agony which lasts for hours. Although not blamed for deaths its tendency to cause raised blood pressure can be dangerous for vulnerable victims. Ignoring the initial sting may also lead to some people suffering severe symptoms in deep water or while driving.
SEA URCHINS
It is just common sense to avoid the sharp black spines of the black sea urchin. They can penetrate deeply into the flesh and break off causing long-lasting inflammation if not removed often surgically. There is doubt as to whether venom is also involved.
A less common but much more dangerous urchin is the flower urchin. Instead of long spines it appears to be covered with numerous flowers which are in fact little venomous pincers (pedicillariae) capable of causing paralysis and even death. It has killed several people in Japan.
INGESTED TOXINS
Shell Fish
<FONT size=2 face="Arial, Helvetica">This derives from dinoflagellates contaminating shellfish (clams, scallops, oysters, etc.). The toxin, saxotoxin, is water soluble, heat and base stabile, and is therefore not affected by steaming or cooking. It inhibits sodium channels of excitable membranes, blocking propagation of nerve and muscle action potentials.
Symptoms: These usually occur within 30 minutes, and include parasthesias of the lips, tongue, gums and face. This process proceeds to the trunk and may progress to paralysis and respiratory arrest. The gastrointestinal form may appear hours or days after ingestion with nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain.
Treatment: No specific treatment. Stop eating if oral sensations are perceived. Empty stomach if systemic symptoms are noted, using emetic or lavage. Give respiratory support and monitoring if needed. </B>Scombroid
<FONT size=2 face="Arial, Helvetica">Occurs in tuna, mackerel, skipjack and other members of the family scombridae. Fish left at room temperature undergo bacterial breakdown of tissue histidine to histamine and saurine. Spoiled fish have a sharp, peppery taste.
Symptoms: Occur in the first hour, and a histamine-like intoxication is seen. There is headache, flushing, dizziness, palpitations and tachycardia. One may see hypotension, bronchospasm, urticaria and anaphylaxis. GI symptoms include nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, thirst and dysphagia.
Treatment: Gastric lavage, respiratory and circulatory support. Antihistamines appear to be helpful. </B>
Tetradoxin
Toad, or pufferfish, common in tidal creeks and coastal waters are well-known for their amusing habit of inflating their bodies with water or air to balloon-like proportions when provoked. Along with their relatives the porcupine fish, cowfish, boxfish, tobies and sunfish, their bodies contain the same toxin as the saliva of the blue-ringed octopus with the same, potentially fatal effects. Easily caught on fishing lines, they must never be eaten.
Derived from algae covered with bacteria Alteromonas sp.Being ingested by pufferfish The toxin concentrates in the liver and gonads. The toxin inhibits sodium transport, affects neuronal transmission in the CNS and periphery and also affects cardiac nerve conduction and contraction.
Symptoms: Entirely dose dependent-can have oral paresthesias, muscular fasciculations then a flaccid type of paralysis occurs. (curare-like).
Treatment: Gastric lavage and respiratory support, usually for 24 hours or more. Consider sedation because cognitive function intact. There will be spontaneous remission if the patient is otherwise supported.
<FONT size=2 face=Arial>Ciguatera
A form of food poisoning which occurs occasionally in certain coral reef fish. It originates in a tiny organism (dinoflagellate) attached to algae growing usually on dead coral. It is eaten by plant-eating fish and then accumulates in large predatory fish such as mackerel, coral trout and cod. The tasteless and odourless toxin is not destroyed by cooking or freezing.
All reef fish over 10kg should be treated with caution. Eat only a little and if symptoms develop discard the fish. Avoid internal organs of any reef fish. Symptoms, which begin 2-12 hours after fish are eaten, are varied and can include breathing difficulty requiring artificial respiration. If symptoms develop, induce vomiting.
INJECTED TOXINS
CONE SHELLS
Happily for humans, the animals which inhabit the beautiful cone shells are nocturnal. Hunters by nature, many carry a toxic concoction which is capable of killing humans; in fact, the venom from one geographer cone
(Conus geographus) is capable (in theory of course,) of killing 700 people.
There are about 80 species of cone shells in Australia, mostly in tropical waters. Some feed on worms, some on molluscs (including other cone shells) and some on fish. It is the last two types which are most dangerous to humans. To stop a fish in its tracks a snail needs a formidably fast-acting venom.
It is thought that the cone detects its prey from chemicals in the water drawn through its siphon. Some visual sense may also be involved. The cone then extends its proboscis, a hollow feeding tube, on the end of which is a hollow, barbed tooth. Attached to a poison sac, this tooth is driven harpoon-style into the hapless victim, poison being injected through the tooth. The force of the harpoon has been known to penetrate a periwinkle shell. Each tooth is used only once. A supply of spares is kept in an internal tooth sac and moved into position as required. Held by the barbed tooth, the victim is quickly immobilised by the poison and then drawn into the expanded proboscis to be digested. A mollusc victim may be sucked from its shell (certain toxins may loosen its muscular attachment to the shell, making the task easier).
The best way to avoid stings is not to touch live cone shells. The extendable harpoon-wielding proboscis is capable of reaching most parts of the shell so it is not safe to grip the wide end. Thick shoes should be worn for reef walking and cones should never be put in pockets or sleeves. Sting symptoms progress from numbness to breathing failure.
BLUE-RINGED OCTOPUS
This potential killer is small, the northern (larger) species reaching only 20cm across spread tentacles. It is normally yellowish brown but when disturbed its blue rings become bright and obvious. It is not aggressive by nature but will bite when provoked.
The venom is contained in the saliva, which comes from two glands each as big as the animal's brain. It has two components. One is probably most effective on crabs (its main prey) but relatively harmless to humans while the other, the same as that present in toad/puffer fish, probably serves as a defence against predatory fish. Humans, when bitten, usually do not feel the bite but soon notice a numbness around the mouth followed quickly by paralysis. Death can result from respiratory failure.

This octopus lives in shallow water, typically in sheltered rock pools and crevices, cans and bottles. Never put your hands where you cannot see them. The venom is not injected but enters the wound in saliva. Washing the bite may therefore remove venom from the surface.
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Posted: October 5th, 2009, 11:35am CDT by Mouse
Hi Guys
I have finally decided that I have had enough of struggling every week when I clean my tank - the area that my sump is in, is terribly small and only has 2 chambers.
In order to clean / replace the filter floss (which I know is a problem), it's a complete nightmare and I think it's time to rebuild as soon as possible.
I currently have a 300l tank.
The sump consists of 3x chambers, but effectively only really 2....because:
I have a trickle system which brings water from the tank into top "chamber" which has holes in the bottom. Water goes through filter floss (pffft arghh) & carbon, down into bottom chamber1. This contains heater and more dreaded floss & phos remover.
Water goes UNDER chamber 1 into chamber2 which has return pump and skimmer....which I realise is NOT ideal to have both in same chamber.
There is unfortunately no other way that this system can work other than the way it is set up at the moment, so I would like to "upgrade".
So:
I need suggestions on what to do in terms of:
New sump design (I think the standard is to go for 3 chambers, first for skimmer & heater, 2nd for dsb and 3rd for return pump).
Also, I don't know where to start, wouldn't know who to speak to about getting it built or the right size or specs of it.
What this could potentially cost either....
Also, I would think this would require a new sump OUTSIDE the cupboard that the current one is in because it's too small to do much with.
What do I do with current sump?
What do I do about an auto top up in all of this?
How do I even get the water to do what it needs to do in terms of going from tank to sump and back to tank when the sump is outside & currently the water comes down through a pipe in the centre of my tank.
Me "Bridget" - not so good at DIY boy stuff and would love some help please...
Here's a couple of pics of my current sump (old pics now):
Please help :032:
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Posted: October 5th, 2009, 11:01am CDT by neo
Howdy,
with marine substrate from the LFS being expensive I was thinking if it would be worth mixing regies play sand and some LFS bought marine substrate for my DT.
Then i don't need to buy as much substrate from LFS but hopefully get some of the bennifit of the LFS substrate.
what di you think - my head not so lekka today??:P
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im looking for 6 new 54watt bulbs...
4x atinics 2x 12k or 15k ??
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My lights are running from 830am -930pm, previously they were 6:45-8:30, and I fed the fish before and when we came back from work. My problem now is when we go to work, the lights are off. Obviously for the welfare of the fish it is best to stagger the feeding, but now I will be feeding at 5pm and 8pm, you think this will work? I just wanted to see everyone else feeding times with their lights pending work times.
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Hi guys. Dad bought this fish, and the LFS calls it a spotted wrasse. I can't find any info on google really helping me here. My dad says it is not taking the frozen veggies nor meat when he feeds it. It is pecking on rocks though - so it must propably be eating.
Can you guys please post a tad more information for me on how to feed, do's and dont's please?
Thanks
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Dad has this in his tank... Spoke to some guys at the PTA meeting and they asked for a photo - so here it is. I have no idea of what it could be. Dad says it's about the size and shape of a smarty. I dont think it is a smarty though ;)...
Please ID guys:
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:happybday: dude - Enjoy the rest of the day and may you see many many more :mbounce:
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Hey, just want to say thax to LAnzo for super exelent service and for having a super cool shop, THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND EVERYTHING
Jy kry def n 10 vir service
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Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: Cube for Sale
Location: Durban (highway area)
Shipping or Collection only: Collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: 60X60X50 Cube and Stand for sale
1 Tunze Nano stream
Return Pump
heater
250w 14k halide
1 power head
R6000
____________________
Cube and stand - R4000
Halide - R1500
Nano Stream - R600
Other bits - R800
http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/s...h/DSCF4380.jpg
Notes: -
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Mods help! Double post
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Posted: October 4th, 2009, 8:36pm CDT by Lisa
Hi Guys
I bought an algea blenny 2 weeks ago. I chose him/her because he was nice and healthy looking.
He/she has got very thin. There is algea for it to eat. I also put norri in the tank but the only interaction it has with the norri is to occassionally sit on it.
I bought it as a replacement for the other blenny that "vanished"(must have died).
What else can I try?
My next question is that I was given about a 8 small hard corals and a few small soft corals. In the tank I already had an anenome, leathers, "cauliflowers" and a couple of hard corals. Basically the population has more than doubled overnight.
My tank is a Juwel 260 litre. It has a canister filter. Somebody made a suggestion that I use my spare tetratec canister and add additional carbon and phosphate remover and add it to my tank. What do you think?
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hi there everyone
i'm a beginner interested in starting a marine tank.
however, i'd just like to find out about tank prices more or less.
how much should i pay for a
1.240l tank with the wooden finish
2.450l tank with wooden finish
it is about 1.2m wide and 700 high
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Hi Hennie
Just wondering if we live at the coast, cant we use our sea water and just filter it properly?
some times it takes up to two months before I get marine salt from SA.
Testing it right now, 200L drum and 1700L/H UV and skimmer for a 600L tank added a tatanium heater to increase temp. to 25 and 200 bio balls in the drum to (was laying around so through them in as well, lol)
Collected water from a clear spot and pump it to the drum with pump added filter floss to prevent sand going in
so tell me what you think, will it work?
will let it run for 2 weeks and see
thanks
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Posted: October 4th, 2009, 10:05am CDT by Tim S
Greetings all,
Can someone help with a piece of cheato please.
Tim
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Happy birthday Bob - have a great day :party:- now go build some reefs!:razz: Enjoy the rest of the day and may you see many many more:happybday:
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Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: 114L hexagonal tank and oak cabinet
Location: JHB east rand
Shipping or Collection only: No shipping to be collected only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Hi guys I'm selling my 114L hexagonal tank and oak cabinet , not sure what to ask for it so offers welcome
Thanks
Notes: -
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Hi
Got an anemone that was damage in transport packing and did healed properly and started to close during the day and open at lights off, did try some different lights and add more and switch on only one but still didn't worked, so I moved it to my special aquarium (aquah2o) with its standard lights, did open for the first 3 days and it starts to run to darker corners (maybe should call it RUN AWAY BRIDE, or Julia, lol).
I gave it some companions and now they are running after it (3xMaroon Clowns)
Bought it as maroon bubble tip anemone, but some time wonder if they send the correct stock.
Water conditions in the tank 99%, the 1% is the skimmer bubbles, like I mentioned it is a special tank.
This is going on for about 3 months now.
Thanks
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Has anyone ever had 2 bi-colour blennie's in the same tank?
I have one in my nano and one in my 4ft, I am wanting to shut down the nano and don't really want to sell my blenny, he is such a character, so I am wondering if they will live together in my 4ft?
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Posted: October 3rd, 2009, 8:09pm CDT by Tasha
Hey I am new to the forum. just popping in to so Hey!!!
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Posted: October 3rd, 2009, 7:53pm CDT by Yuri
first one i am thinking of is a goldenback trigger but thy are rare
Crosshatch i have been told thy are very agro
i like a sargassum
there are just too mutch of this
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Posted: October 3rd, 2009, 7:31pm CDT by Jinx
Hey all please help....I bought a Regal Tang today and my Bicolor angel is attacking him all the time.
Is it because of the similar colours of these fish?
Will it wear off at a later stage?
I do have a lot of rock and hiding places in my tank,the Regal also has white spot which I didn't notice at the time I bought him.
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Hi All
After introducing some recent fish to my tropical tank, every fish died, and we are quiet disappointed tbh. BUT, it does give us an oppurtunity now to try Marine, which is what we have wanted for some time.
We are total newbies to marine and i will sift through this forum hoping not to ask the same questions everyone else has asked, but its nice to discuss things so hopefully I will get lots of good advice.
I will upload some photos of my current tank size and equipment that I might be able to salvage from the tropical side of things.
Money is an issue this close to Christmas and we have lots of small fry in our family (excuse the pun), so hopefully I may be able to do this a bit cheaper with good advice.
Will upload some pics soon, thanks
:thumbup:
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Posted: October 3rd, 2009, 9:18am CDT by Tim S
Hi all,
My tank has been cycling for 4 weeks now and the pic's show some changes I can see. The base rock has many small knobules of maroon coloured 'things' on them. They tend to be more under the rock and not in the direct light. Can someone tell me what this is please. The dsb also seems to have worms burrowing arround. Small mounds are visible on the top. Is this OK or not? And finally the dsb has started showing black patches in the sand. I take it this is good?
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Morning all. I use crush coral on the moment for gravel in tank. I was told that coral can later became a nitrate factory. So my question is, can i use sea sand for gravel after i washed it out before putting it into tank?
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Posted: October 2nd, 2009, 10:08pm CDT by Alan
For future reference this is where it all started.
Glynn Formans 8000l (2200 gallon) System - Reef Hunters
This is just a teaser before we get started as i need a link to end the old thread off, hows this for a tank build........
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includes The Bean exercise machine,training dvd,training watch,barely used.
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Can i keep more then just a pair of Ocellaris/percula clownfish?
Have a pair (not 100% sure if they Ocellaris or percula), and wanted to know if i can get some more. I think i read sometimes if there are more then a pair they will fight.
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HI
I saw this clown at this link (melanopus)
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
hope it works
Can someone plz tell me if its a tomato clown, or a cinnamon clown, and will I be able to get this coloration in SA.
Thanks.
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Posted: October 2nd, 2009, 1:02pm CDT by Raven
Hey hey - I've got the go ahead from the better half to build a new tank!!!
I'm looking at building a little monster!
The dimentions:
2000 x 1000 x 700
The idea is to use my current filter system:
Two DSB tanks - +- 450l
Two protien skimmers (1 TS2, 1 Orca 135 - rated 1000l (i think))
Will just add a algea scrubber.
Some of my current pumps must be replaced as it is way to noisy!
I will also need to get new/more lights.
Will probably have to use MH's - will still decide...
My current tank will be converted into a fresh water system as soon as the new tank is up and running!
Any ideas...
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Posted: October 2nd, 2009, 12:01pm CDT by Manic
Hey everyone,
Yesterday I saw these really cool looking clown goby's at a lfs. Just wanted to check if anyone has had any experience with clown goby's and sps. Heard they sometimes eat sps.
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Hey guys. It's a bit of a schlep to search the Forum for everyones Full Tank Shots. Could I maybe get you guys to post your latest FTS; be it a new or mature tank? ;)
I think this will also help noobs to view scaping ideas and also help them identify a specific species they like from a certain member, then they can make personal contact with the member regarding that specific species.
You can update your FTS here every few months.
But please keep this a FTS forum, and do not post 100 zoomed in pictures of your setup. ;) The idea is to view the bigger picture.
So please get those camera's clicking (but not the flashes flasing :nono:...)
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Anyone keep these...seems like they are good for keeping the substrate clean
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Hi Guys,
I'm moving house and about to set up a 130L tanks with sump, protein skimmer, T5 lighting the lot, but with summer on the way I would like to introduce a chiller, I've been thinking about making one but reading some info seems like buying is a better idea? I live an hour south of Durban if anyone knows were I can get my hands on one.
Thanks
Brent
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So id just like to know whats the best way to make pipes leak proof for our fish tanks.
can we use teflon tape? And ive heard that we can use tangit glue? Is silicone ok to seal woth or will it also get a leak in time?
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Hi Guys,
Please can you give me some advice? I am converting a 5ft fresh water to marine and need to install a sump the space is small as the bottom has been devided. the size is 660w x 656h x 350deep on boths sides. my idea is to have 2 2ft tanks joined by 2 50mm pvc pipes through the wood suport/devide. 1st chaimber is for skimmer 2nd DSB 3rd live rock 4th return. Would this work?
thanks
simon:)
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Posted: October 2nd, 2009, 9:32am CDT by vis
Interesting thing I saw last night, my chromis seems to nibble on my Fox face, not actually biting it or hurting the foxylady, but it seems they are cleaning the foxface like a cleaner wrasse , has any one seen something similar ? :confused1:
i dont think its territorial issue as the Foxface just stays in one place so they can do the nibble dance or what ever they do. and then it swims on......
no visible damage to the fins and the foxface is healthy and happy.
just very weird ???
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Posted: October 2nd, 2009, 9:20am CDT by trad
Tv for sale my collect 4 months old.
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Posted: October 2nd, 2009, 9:08am CDT by trad
Various frags for saleCommon Names: SPS / LPS
Scientific Names: -
Size of frags Various
How long have you had the frags? 4 Months
Are the frags mounted? No
Shipping or Collection only: Collect
Your location. Jhb South
Price: R2000
Photo's: Selling all my sps corals and my one hammer coral. The ones on coral clips have been mounted on my LR replica using pratleys putty so will cut them off the rock at the putty and or can mount them to your LR where ever you want.
The Frags have gone brown.

Paid 400 at idol

Paid 400 at idol

Paid 400 at idol. The front one.
Notes: -
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I tried connecting a dual T5 ballast and a pair of globes. The problem is that when you switch the power on, both tubes start illuminating from the one end, for about 1 second then both go out without illuminating the whole tube. Do you think the problem is with the ballast not being able to support both? it is a 2 xT5, 54w.
wirining is like this from the ballast
pos 1 &2 to one end of 1st T5
pos 3 to one point on opposite end of 1st T5
pos 5 to one point on opposite end of 2nd T5
pos 6&7 to one end on 2nd T5
1 wire connect spare links on opposite end of tubes.
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I have a Reef Octo DNW 150 . Its stats are :
Tank Size: 800 L Product Size (mm): ø150x680 Foot Print (mm): 380x180 Air Intake: 2000
lph Pump Power: OTP-2000 (2000lph) 38W.
It is an external skimmer , my question is how much flow should I be looking for through the skimmer ?
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Hi my name is Marna. I am quite new to the hobby therefor try to learn as much as i can. I hope to create a reef aquarium with different aspects such as corals, invertebrates, anemones and fish. How do you know if you anemones and corals are really happy and healthy?
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Reefoctopus bubble blaster internal,skimmer is brand new,still in box
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Posted: October 1st, 2009, 7:19pm CDT by Manic
Hey everyone,
So like the heading says, I recently purchaced a Stylophora Pistillata. As I opened the packet, I noticed two crabs living in the coral. One is big and the other is really small. Just wanted to know if they are safe or not. Here's the pic:
Is it an acro crab or something completely different. I've tried to google it but cant find much.
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hey guys i found this link on TASA so i thought i would share it here on MASA :thumbup:
Welcome to SA Fishkeeper Magazine
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Koos went hunting one day and shot two Impala.
>> He loaded them onto the back of his bakkie and was driving home when
>> stopped by a Game Warden who did not like hunters.
>>
>> The warden ordered Koos to show him his hunting licence ,which was
>> duly produced. Then the warden lifted the covers off the bakkie and stuck
>> his
>> nose into one of the bucks asses.
>>
>>" Haaikona this is not a local Impala . This one is from the Free State
>>and
>> you need a Free State licence to kill it.Do you have one?"
>>
>> Koos opened the cubby-hole and produced one.
>>
>> Not happy the warden sniffed the anus of the other
>> animal and gleefully shouted:"This one is from Lesotho.
>> Do you have a Lesotho licence?"
>>
>> The hunter went back to his cubby and produced a Lesotho licence.
>>
>> The warden was very agitated and shouted:"Where the
>> hell are you from?"
>>
>> Koos smiled, turned around, dropped his pants to his ankles,bent
>> forward and said:
>>
>> "You tell me .......You're the expert!"
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Hey good and faithful 'sponsors!
My return pump is not play the game and is shocking the hell out of me.
could you please give me prices on your pumps? with postage to EL.
thank you
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Hey
I was browsing through our local electric shop then I saw a metal hallide lamp from osram! It was rated as daylight globe so it must be 6000k plus and it was R240 with an industrial fitting (E40) so it can just be fitted into an industrial socket! This only cost R25 with som wire and you have a metal hallide.
I'm not sure if it's the same but I couldn't buy it , first wanted to here what you guys would think...
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Hi Guys,
Recently my skimmer is not producing a lot of bubbles, and producing little skimmate and thus i think i am not removing enough waste from my system. Its a DNW 110, fed directly from my overflow, emptying to my sump.
Initially i thought to replace the impeller, I did this and went from the needle wheel to pinwheel. While doing this I noticed small snail shells blocking the inlet to the skimmer pump, took these out, and was skimming much better.
Now i have basically gone back to what it was before, not much bubbles and not much skimmate being produced.
I have swapped between the needle wheel and pinwheel and notice no difference.
Any ideas what could be the problem?
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Ok so i am curently running my tank of 3 different multiplugs and i am not happy with it
I have the following equipment that I run
timer 1 - Lights
Timer 2 - sump lights
these I am happy to leave as is.
but then there is a whole heap of other appliences i would love to neaten up....
all except the skimmer are 2 pin plugs.
One major constraint is that i am renting at the moment so a permenant electrical system built into the wall is not an option. Secondly i want to be able to switch on seperate equipment seperately. and third i want to be able to completely remove the equipment for cleaaning if i choose.
I have the following in addition to the lights and skimmer
1 x heater
4 x seio
3 x pumps
1 x auto top up
1 x Fan
and of course i would want to build it that i could add other equipment if i require.
My idea was to wire the setup into a series of switchs .... with one power in cable.... how do i work out if that is possible???
then the cables coming out i wanted to put a female 2 pin plug on and plug the male into this ...... woould this work..?
I am pretty good with my DIY but pretty doff with electrical things !
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Posted: October 1st, 2009, 1:02pm CDT by clown
HI,
I RECIEVED MY LAWNMOVER BLENNY ON 26//09/09.
HE IS 8 CM IN SIZE,HE EATS THE HAIRE ALGAE.
HIS NAME IS SID BECAUSE HE HAS HIS OWN PERSONALITY.
I WILL ALSO GET SOME PALLET FOOD FOR HIM - THE PET SHOP ADVISE THEY FOR FEEDING HIM PALLETS AND HE WAS EATING IT.
i JUST WANT GET SOME PALLETS SO HE HAS SOMTHING ELS ALSO TO EAT AND TO AVOID THAT HE IS STARVING.
HE MAESES SOME OF THE HAIR ALGAE THAT FALLS TO THE GROUND AND HE LEAVES IT. WILL MARGARITA SNAILS EAT THIS?
SEE PICS BELOW OF SID.
[IMG]

[/IMG][IMG]

[/IMG]
cLOWN :razz:
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Hi All,
This weekend we will have a 10% discount on all fish in our shop.:thumbup:
We have a large selection at a good opening price including anthius squamipinus(females and kings),midas blennies,sailfin tangs,various wrasses,nerita snails and hermit crabs.
Tommorow we will recieve a large Phillipine shipment that will offer a large selection.
colourful sps still available but do not delay;)
Shop hours Saturday 8:00am to 4:00pm
Be cool,see you all soon,
Idol Marine Crew.
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Please welcome Jaco in what must be a South African first - Specialised Marine Aquarium Insurance.:thumbup:
Quote:

Acumen Insurance Brokers in conjuction with Omnicover Risk Acceptances (Pty) Ltd - underwritten by Hollard Insurance Company, has created a specialized Marine Aquarium Insurance product. This product is the first and only of it's kind, and offers hobbiests the ability to insure their aquariums against losses that no standard insurance policy can offer.
Product Highlights:
* Cover is granted for any glass and equipment, speciefied by the client up to a maximum of R250 000.00
* Equipment cover offers both electronic and mechanical breakdown cover - this excluded by conventional insurance cover.
* Perils include power surge, lightning strike, mechanical failure, accidental damage, bursting and cracking of glass.
* We will even replace the water that has been lost at a maximum of R2.50 per liter.
How cover is granted?
This is not a stand alone product, and needs to be accompanied by a normal personal lines policy - consisting of householders, house owners, motor etc. cover. We will aim at getting your current premium lower than your current premium - in order for you to have Aquarium Cover without you having to pay more monthly on insurance.
How do we pay a claim?
Once a loss has occured, it will be handled as a normal All Risk claim. Quotations are given on the replacement of the item, and we pay the funds over to the supplier where you can then arange for collection of the item replaced. Our preffered supllier will be Dorry Pets in PTA, however you can request another supplier - as long as the cost of replacement is relevant to that of Dorry Pets.
What you need to go cover?
Send us your current insurance cover details, and make a list of items you want to insure on your aquarium, including the values thereof. We will then give you an obligation free quotation, which you can review and decide.
Should you wish to accept the cover, we will send you an application form, which you fill in, send back to us, and we will place you on cover according to your request.
Final Note:
This product offers you extensive cover that no other insurance company has available - and is managed by a people that keeps marines themselves, thus understands your needs.
We look forward in building this product with your help, and our future plans are extending the cover even further...
Thank you for your support in advance.
Jaco Schoeman
Owner of Acumen Insurance Brokers
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Hey every1 im going to pta and jhb for the weekend, im looking for some nice zoas, bright colours and sps frags, star polyps? any1 that can help me out with a frag? please also looking for some colourful shrooms
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Posted: October 1st, 2009, 10:43am CDT by fleur
Hi guys i've got 2x 220l blue water drums that i used to store water in but i have know use for them anymore. Great for when you moving or setting up new tank or even storing live rock or RO water.
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HI
I have a Boyu TL 550, I would like to add an anemone (BTA) in a few months time.
What wavemaker would you suggest for a tank that size, or maybe not a wavemaker at all.
What can I do to make sure it does not get chewed up, how should I cover it.
Sorry for all the Qs but I just wanna make sure that wont lose it.
Thanks :thumbup:
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HI All
I have 3 of the following electronic ballast for sale
These are just plug and play no need for connecting wires, End caps or plugs.
Asking 350.each I will also throw in the metal holders for the bulbs
I also have 2*osram DIY 39W ballasts asking 170 each
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Since my tank burst Ive been prowling the forums looking for inspiration for my new build. Thank you to the following, you know who you are!
The tank size is 1200x700x600 giving a rough volume of 500l. I will only be setting the tank up when I move house which is kinda taking forever.
Specs
Lighting = 8 54W T5 (3 x 10k 2x 12k 3x actinic)
Skimmer = 2 skimmers (Internal Bubble Magus BM100 & External Skimmer still shopping)
Rock = 50 kg rock (30kg fully cured and 20kg dead fiji rock)
Waterflow = still undecided ( maybe a polario:whistling:)
Substrate and DSB (Caribsea aragonite)
Livestock = Mixed reef
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Hi guys,
My Polario is just not creating the correct flow pattern in my corner tank (due to the design) and unless i put it right in front viewing pane I cant really fix this. Also cant do much to the scaping as a lot of softies are already attached :P
So here are my options:
1. Install a CLS , using an external recirculating pump...was looking at the RO Blaster Series (hell of a shlep)
2. Bouyo WM 3 - Gives me 4 pumps, thus more options (bit worried about backup)
3. Install 2 Resun 15 000
Any ideas , thoughts , comments
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Hi Guys...
Okey, so I got the TS1 skimmer in the sump (chamber one) now I have to place the glass pane next to it, that will flow over into my DSB. My sump is a standard 3foot tank (915 x 380 x380 or something like that)
My question is, how high should this pane be for the TS1 to operate effectively? Too high, and it might flood right? Too low, and the water level in it will not be high enough to operate properly?
Sorry, I have never kept in tank skimmers, so this is new territory to me...;)
PS: The DSB will be between 13-15cm thick, so obviously the pane can not be lower than that.
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happy birfday to all the birfday oke's!!:thumbup:
Norries
» Today's Birthdaysmadambezz
sean_koekemoer
NeilSmit
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Which clowns are comapitable with each other, I know the best is to start off with the softer species like the oscerlaris, let them adapt and then look towards others, I am a bit nervous about adding other species, I already have oscerlaris, but what should I look at if I want to add another species next.
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Posted: October 1st, 2009, 8:44am CDT by Zuna
i know its a naso but which one is it