Reefkeeping South Africa » Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Hey guys

280 L tank
100L Sump

I will be posting some pics this week of my tank
.In the mean time, anyone know what this is?.It is taking over all my live rocks and pipes.It does not seem to affect the fish or corals
Nitrates is in acceptable level.The tank has been going for 3 years now.I only had 1 sea hare die in that time, no other livestock lost.
I bought liverock with this on and figured a RO Water Bath and 1x week Darkness would kill it.....boy was I wrong.I have some of the liverock with this green stuff on in the sump under complete darkness...it still grows...damn
I hope someone knows what it is, close up it looks almost like Fern leaves...but what do I know?
Attached Files

green stuff.doc (1.05 MB)

Newbie

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 7:41pm CST by Reefmad

Hi to all!!!
New to site.
So cool!!!!:wave2:

jelly looking mushroom

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 6:58pm CST by vatso

Hi all I have a jelly looking mushroom - but it has no color is that normal? I think it was covered by a rock will try get a pick of if.

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/28/HI'

HI

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 6:58pm CST by Halfmoon

Hi all

Im planning on starting a Seahorse tank and would like any help i can get.

Thanks in advance:)

Please ID this coral.

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 6:29pm CST by Jinx

Is this jelly fish reef safe?

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 5:46pm CST by herkie

I was at a local beach today and found a smallish transparent purple jelly fish. It was washed out on the sand and when I looked at it closely I saw it was alive. I brought it home and now have it in a container with a air stone in. When I got home with it I thought it died while travelling. When checking it out a few minutes ago I found it pulsing and alive. It must have taken a beating in the surf and its tentacles or whatever it is called looks a bit damaged. It had some sand stuck to it but it now seems to be shaking the sand off. Does it have a chance of surviving and can one put it in your tank? What do they eat and what are their water condition needs?

Cleaner Wrasse who was one?

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 4:14pm CST by vatso

Hi all

I have a cleaner wrasse & from what I read they seem so hard to keep?? but my wrasse seems very happy & healthy.

How many of you have cleaner wrasse & what has your success rate?

Mark

Yellow Submarine

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 11:52am CST by Propnut

Today we managed to get a small 3cm wrass type fish that I cannot identify in my reef books. Any ides?

New 90g tank

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 6:02am CST by LikesFish

Sorry guys - but I do not know what 90g is in litres anymore. But that is the size of the tank I will be getting tomorrow...

If interested here is my build thread:

[reefcentral.com]

Lighting for my 12G nano cube

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 12:13am CST by samier

Evening, I would like to upgrade my lighting in the nano, can anybody tell me whats the lowest wattage in metal halide(the blue one).

Where can I purchase a DIY metal halide kit from and do you know what the cost will be.
Would i be able to use the standard hood and install it or will it burn the hood.

I have also read of the guys changing to LED lights, can somebody please shed some light on the topic(no pun intended). What type of LED's must I look out for and where can I purchase it from.

Thanks.

Help New tank

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 8:38pm CST by Tanz

Hi all. Please tell me just started a new tank just mixed the salt with RO water. Salinity is at 1.023 can I put live rock in to the tank now. Or is there any thing else that i must check first.

Some Kinda Nudi or Cucumber???

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 6:04pm CST by brandonb

Hi

I just found this in my dads 3.2 m meter system (a new system, live rock added on Thursday)

Its about 5 cm long... is it some kind of slug of cucumber

Is it dangerous???

Skimmer

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 4:32pm CST by gMAN

Hey guys, I have a TS1 Skimmer and was wondering how often it should be cleaned? My ocean size is 4FT

Magnesium confusion

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 1:27pm CST by viper357

Hi Hennie

Can you perhaps clear up something for me please. I am in the process of purchasing some chemicals and I have come across Magnesium, now from my understanding, a build up of sulphate from dosing Magnesium sulphate can be a bad thing, Magnesium Chloride is the better one to dose apparently. If that is the case then why do they sell a packet of MG Chloride and a packet of MG Sulphate, surely you only want the chloride? Or is it advisable to buy both and mix them together? I believe that a lot of the commercially available magnesium additives are roughly 1 part chloride to 10 parts sulphate. I'm inclined to buy just the chloride one but I'm not 100% sure.

To be exact, the products are called:

Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate MgSO4 7H2O
Magnesium Chloride Hexahydrate MgCl 6H2O

Thanks.

Hennie visiting Cape Town

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 1:18pm CST by Reef Maniac

Hi Capetonians,

I will be visiting Bellville next week, and will be staying at the Bellville Town Lodge on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday nights.

If anyone would like to stop by for a "kuier" in the evenings I would be very happy to meet for a bit of reef talk, and perhaps even supper...

I will unfortunately not have transport, so won't be able to visit further away...

Hennie

New member

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 12:26pm CST by samier

Hi all, I am a new member to this forum but not new to the hobby. I have been a reefer for 5 yrs.

Currently I have a JBJ Nano cube DX.

1) Tomato Clown 2) False Percula Clown for sale: Jhb, Montgomery Park

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 11:11am CST by abgg118

Fish for saleCommon Name:

1) Tomato Clown 2) False Percula Clown

Scientific Name:

-

Size of fish

Medium to Large (Adult)

How long have you had the fish?

1) 3 years + 2) 5 months +

Is the fish eating?

Yes

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Your location.

Jhb, Montgomery Park

Price:

R100 each

Photo's:

Notes:

The Tomato was the male of my Tomato Clown pair for years, but the female died.
I got a Percula pair, but the male died.
I got another pair of False Perculas, and now they're constantly fighting with these two.

Week-end Specials

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 9:57am CST by Naiema

To let you know about our great Week-end specials.Banngai Cardinals-R159, Convict Tangs-R89, Green Chromis-R49, Foxface-R195,Regal Tangs(med/lrge)-R395. Stunning Corals avail. Ph 0217122534/0826368990

pumps

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 9:43pm CST by Reef E

Can someone help me with the right pumps and skimmers and equipment for a
400L tank

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/26/Hi'

Hi

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 9:38pm CST by Reef E

Hi everyone I hope you can help me when I has a problem
:wave2:

[FS] AM 5000 twin for sale

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 8:09pm CST by Roadblock

Second hand AM 5000 Twin, with origonal AM 3500 pumps.
Skimmer stands 2m tall.

eggs?

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 7:16pm CST by Nsteyn

MM was wondering if anyone can identify this...

excuse the quality..
Tnx.

Niel

Hi to everyone

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 6:53pm CST by Amoré

Hi everyone,

My name is Amoré, I live in Pretoria, I've been a fish keeper for a couple of years (almost 10) and now I want to start my dream tank - A MARINE TANK

I have a 300 litre tank and I would appreciate any help regarding this because I want to make a great success of it.

Thanks to anyone who might have suggestions and tips...

Regards,
Amoré :)

[FS] Canon 350D 18-55mm + 100-300mm

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 4:16pm CST by gMAN

Howzit guys,
I have a Canon 350D with an 28-55mm + 100-300mm lens for R6000.00 ONCO. If I'm not mistaken, the 300mm lens alone is about 3.5k. COD or EFT.

[FS] Nitro RC car

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 3:40pm CST by ReefMaster_SA

Howsit guys I got a Nitro TC 3 Rc car Its got a 2speed Gear box 1.5 engine ( Got New Piston and already broken in the Engine )

Its need repairs the Back wheel
The can be used for spares as well on other RC cars

If intended to racing with the Car its need A glow starter
and Glow Plugs

Asking R300
:slayer:
Its comes with Remote and Half Liter 16.& Nitro Sidewinder racing Flue , Filter oil

Not Racing Anymore

Bumble bee shrimp on the attack!!??

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 2:21pm CST by brentv

Hey guys I noticed last night my bumble bee shrimp is grabbing at a clam and it slams closed, is it trying to chow down? has anyone had this happen before?:(

Favorite lil toons...

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 2:17pm CST by Garethmur

Post your favorite funny lil cartoon strips here... lets see what comes up :thumbup:

New guy

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 2:04pm CST by JohnDoe

Hi Guys and Gals,

Just wanted to introduce myself. I've been spending quite a bit of time on the forums in the past couple of weeks and I must congratulate you all in making a very knowledgable and friendly site.

Then as to tanking, I use to a keep fresh water system for a couple of years and thus know a little about keeping fish. I then went onto converting to a marine tank and ran it for about 8 months. I'm surpised it ran that long, as I received misguided information from a person I trusted and the LFS. Unfortunately this site was not active when I kept fish.

Obviously this ended in a blunder and a lot of ill feelings, but as anyone here can tell you, once the bug has bit, it's hard to let go and looking at the forums awoke all too familiar feelings.

In a month's time my family and I will be moving house, a bigger one than currently, so there will be space for a tank again.

So, this is me saying "Hi there" and I'll probably be posting very soon as to what I have in mind for a setup.

A Lazy Man's Second Sump

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 12:48pm CST by deepblue

Hi Guys,

Before I get slammed by the guru's and what not just bear in mind that I'm not that lazy with maintenance I just have a hectic work schedule (+- 13 Hours a day) plus a baby on the way :slayer::lol::slayer:.

Please look at the image and let me know what you think. (thats if the image loads:P)

1. The first chamber would be for RO Water 40 Liters (Top Up)
2. The second chamber would be for new stock or used as a hospital 40 Liters
3. The third chamber would be used for new saltwater (with a heater and air pump). This chamber would be equal to a 10% water change. 40 Liters
4. The fourth chamber would be used for draining enough water to do a 10% water change. 40 Liters

All of the above would be piped and modified to the main system (No more buckets:thumbup:)

Let me know what you think please.

P.S To all SHARK supporters I feel your pain!:(

[FS] Wavemakers for sale

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 11:30am CST by Jcc

Got 2 buyo wm1 wavemakers 6000lph and a controller for sale. Its a year old and was used for 6 months. Wil post photo after the weekend

New stock at idol marine

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 11:22am CST by Bob the (reef)builder

Hi All,new stock in our tanks!

Large variety of lps corals incl.Brains,various eupyllia,bubble,fox,zoanthid,sun,heliofungia and doughnut corals.

Fish selection includes various tangs,small regals @R166,cinnamon,tomato,ocellaris,maroon,skunk, clownfish,mandarinfish,bangai cardinals,wrasses and angelfish.

Sps selection of various acropora,pocilopora and merulina.

Soft corals include xenia,colt,kenya tree and lovely sarcophyton specimens.

We also have red macroalge attached to rock bases.

Please come in to see us,always feel free to ask any marine
related questions and to share in our love and passion for this wonderful hobby.:thumbup:

Cheers for now,
Idol Marine Crew.:)

$Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/26/Refractometer_wanted_'$

Refractometer wanted!

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:40am CST by nickv1

Hello All

Does anyone have a decent refractometer for sale in the Pretoria Area (or willing to ship)?

Let me know.

Thanks

Nick
:thumbup:

Reef Octopus MH t5 combo

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:30am CST by Singularity

Hi, came across these lights from Reef octopus, come in various configurations and lenghts, what do you expect to pay for one of these units ?

flow through skimmer chamber

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:26am CST by sweetnsour

Sup fellow reefers
here's my problem hope some of you can help me out.
i have a 50mm pvc pipe that enters the 1st chamber in my sump which houses my skimmer.
due to the total size of the sump the first chamber is just big enough to fit the skimmer, but im finding that having the overflow pipe in the same chamber is causing the skimmer to not work as effectively as i would like it to.
the flow through that chamber is very fast and rough, thus my question to you is how can i slow the water down in the chamber while allowing the overflow water to enter lower down inside the chamber, while avoiding all the bubbles.
(i can honestly admit , when designing my sump i should have made provisions for one of those overflow boxes inside the sump, but alas its done and i now need to live with it)
all your help and advise is greatly appreciated.
cheers SnS

Help identify

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:11am CST by Dragonet

Hi Brenda

I recently purchased an Anemone with 2 Clowns and was told that it is a bubble tip Anemone(but I am not sure), I was told by Mekaeel at last nights gathering to send a picture of the Anemone to you for help with indentification and care.
I am concerned due to all the info that I have read about the Anemone being so white, and am now worried that it has bleached and would like to know if this correct and if so then what steps do I need to take to restore it back to prime condition.

Best regards
Dragonet :helpsmilie:

Just when we thought Eskom is nailing us .....

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 9:02am CST by chikaboo

You think Eskom's was bad news - let me be the bearer of the cherry ontop the "Increase Cake" :(
Attached Files

Toll_Tarif_Leaflt_2010.pdf (671.0 KB)

My Rics - Floridas

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 7:45am CST by ziyaadb

dont ask for frags as the rock is being held for me until my new tank is setup. once i have it back i will frag.

Pics are terrible.

Just finished eat something.

Entire rock

shrimp tank project

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 4:32am CST by aminyassien

hi everybody

can you please help me in my idea for constructing a small shrimp tank .

what is the reasonable tank size ? what equipment should i use ?

what is the tank mates of shrimps (inverts ofcourse) ?

thank you in advance

Amin

Rock art

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 12:09am CST by nico.m.ferreira@gmail.com

Good day.

Hope some one can help me.
Is it possible to do rock art on the inside of the glass in the aquarium and how is it done?
Think it can look reali nice.

Regards

dubai mall aqurium got a leak

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 10:25pm CST by Zuna

eish wonder how they gonna fix this

[www.youtube.com]

Brand New TS1 - Heehaaa

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 9:34pm CST by manta

Hi guys. Well the Jebo finally got the boot and I have finally tonight installed my TS1. Is there a run-in period as the bubbles looks very clean coming into the overflow cup?

lol lol lol lol

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 9:11pm CST by sean_koekemoer

[www.youtube.com]

shark tank cracks in dubai shopping center

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 9:01pm CST by butcherman

check this out guys

DUBAI: Mall shoppers shocked as massive shark tank cracks | Babylon & Beyond | Los Angeles Times

Overflow Noise bugging you?????

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 8:22pm CST by sean_koekemoer

Anyone who have a problem with too much noise in their overflow- here is a solution for you guys!!

Hofer Gurgle Buster

Above are the approximately $3 worth of PVC Parts Required (air tubing not shown)
Notes: The coupler is 1.5" (female slip) x 1.5" (female slip), and the bushing
is 1" (female slip) x 1.5" (male slip). Also, some overflows may require
another 1" x 1" coupler to attach to the overflow's standing pipe.
STEP 1 : Sand 1" inside of the 1.5" (male) x1" (female) slip bushing such that it can
slide over the 1"-in-diameter pipe with considerable resistance.
A dremel is recommended (but not required) for this step.

STEP 2: Press the coupler and bushing together to form bell (aka flow bell).

STEP 3: Drill 1/4" hole in top-center of 1" end cap and push the air tubing through.
The air tubing should slide with considerable resistance through the hole.
Drill 5, 1/2" holes or any assortment of large holes in 1" pipe.
Holes need to be roughly positioned as shown below.

STEP 4: In picture above, take end cap and push it on 1" pipe on the side that is about 2"
from top of holes). The end of the air tubing should rest a little bit below the drilled holes.

STEP 5: Push together all parts seen in step 3 (and in that orientation) together.

Some Advice Suggestions Please

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 7:57pm CST by MichaelB

Hi All,

Very new to Marine tanks etc & currently have a 12g Nano (been running for about 2 months) & already have a rimless with sump on order :)

Back to my Nano - it does seem to get abit hot so have the front flap open with a small fan attached but does not look that great - any suggestions on how to fit / hide the fan?

Secondly, I have seen some 12g Nano's where the hood is removed & a small (+- 30cm) light fixture on brackets as been fitted (nice and easy now to fit the fan) - any idea who might sell that fixture here in SA?

Lastly - if I kept the current hood & lighting, is it a major re-wire mission to have the current moonlights wired to own power source? or is it easier to fit a LED strip?

Last last (promise) - do LED strips come in one length only? can they be made to a certain length? Must the LED be mounted behind the splash guard?

Thanks for any advice / suggestions
Michael

Various frags for sale: Cape Town

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 5:19pm CST by Tim S

Various frags for saleCommon Names:

Zoanthids & ?

Scientific Names:

-

Size of frags

6cm in diameter & 4cm in dia.

How long have you had the frags?

2,5 months

Are the frags mounted?

Yes

Shipping or Collection only:

collection

Your location.

Cape Town

Price:

-

Photo's:

Offer something to swop for these. (leather, hammer, any softies) The second one is lime greenish in clour the photo's colour is not true.

Notes:

-

Coral for sale

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 4:27pm CST by Triven

Hi all i am looking high n low for 1 like this if someone is will to sell me a frag pls or even brown with purple tips or yellow tips

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/25/sps'

sps

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 3:54pm CST by Triven

hi does anyone have any sps frags forsale in durbs

Info on ocean regions ?

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 3:17pm CST by neo

Howdy,
I've started, or rather want to start,
planning my tank inhabitants. I don't just want to go 'bos' buying LS looking nice but would rather want to go with LS from the same region.
Where can I read-up about the diff regions in the ocean and the live in it and maybe more specificly the species suitable for aquariums if such info exist, maybe a book ?

Introduction

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 1:31pm CST by Antionette

Hello All Members
I have just joined MASA and want to say hello to all of you.
I am new to keeping an aquarium which is now in its 4th week. No fish yet. I have no idea which is good or bad algae and struggle to get the info on the internet, possibly due to looking at the wrong sites. I hope to gain valuable info from this site. Keep well.
Antionette

Make The Overflow Quieter...

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 1:05pm CST by Garethmur

Howzit!

Jus thought i would share a lil something we found while trying to make our overflow a lil quieter... water dropping into that 50mm downpipe was damn loud until my wife put a baby bottle top (the round piece that the teet is pushed through) ontop of the 50mm pipe where the water was running into. Its almost silent now...

Camel Shrimp

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 12:35pm CST by Collie

Hi all

I noticed this morning that my camel shrimp moulted, is it normal for his front legs with the claws to "break" off?

Do they grow back?

Thanks

[FS] 39W electronic ballasts with end caps for sale

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 12:16pm CST by ziyaadb

250.00 each just plug ur lights in and you are ready for action

Skimmer for 1000liter setup?

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 11:46am CST by Louis Scheepers

Hi everyone.

I've been a member of MASA for a couple of days now, and have gotten a lot of good advice. I need a new skimmer for my system, but I don't know what to go for...

There are to much opinions about skimming and to many options so I really need help.

My current system is about 400liters, but I am upgrading to a 1000liter system next year, so I want to buy the right skimmer for my future setup.

Main display: 160x70x70
Sump: 120x50x50

First: What are your opinions on over skimming? Some say you can't other say you can remove to many good nutrients. I want to remove max bad nutrients, without removing all the good ones? I got advice to buy a 1500liter skimmer?

Second: I know there are a lot of makes, but it seems to me that Reef Octopus is the best value for money...right? What about quality, I read about noise complaints on these skimmers?

Third: What skimmer of Reef Oc? There are so many different ones that they make...big price differences too! I am on a budget, so I want to buy the cheapest possible one, BUT I don't want to buy so cheap that I have to upgrade in a years time... These are some of the options:

3k price range:

ORCA-135-INT. Pin Wheel with Bubble Plate. Rated: 1200 liter.
OCTX160. Pin Wheel with Bubble Plate. Rated: 900 liter.
OCTX200. Rated: 1500 liter.
TS3. Rated 1500 liter.
DNW-200. Recirculating needle wheel. Rated: 1000 liter.

4k price range:

Reef Octopus Beckett Nozzle BK200. Rated: 1500 liter.
Bubble Blaster (150mm chamber) Rated 800 liter.

I need advice urgently, so please help out!!!

[FS] Orca 130 External

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 10:23am CST by ziyaadb

HI all

Selling my Orca130 external - About 7 months old. Retails 4600. Want 2800.00
selling because i am upgrading

Kind regards
Z

Ridwaan New tank

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 8:55am CST by Ridwaan

Howzit guys...

This is the start of my new tank setup...

Tank size: 1400mm long X 800mm Wide X 600mm high
All in 12mm Low Iron Glass.The glass for the tank has already been delivered to my house, I now need to deliver the glass to the tank builder who will do the tank in Black Silicone. I wanted to go Rimless, but too expensive for the thicker glass. so decided to go with a 80mm euro brace all around the top and bottom of tank...

Sump: Still undecided as I will design this after the tank has been built.

Skimmer: Bubble Blaster External

In tank Flow: 2 X Vortech MP40w Gen2, Maybe a CLS system but trying to cut electricity costs ont his setup

Return: Eheim, EDEN or Blaster, still undecided.

CARX: Deltec Carx rated for 1000ltr tank

Kalkstirrer: AquaMedic KalkStirrer

Filtration: Filter sock, DSB

Shallow sand bed in display, tired of barebottom...heheheheh

Tank will be SPS dominated with a couple LPS and softies here and there

Lighting: AquaMedic Aquasunlight 2 X 250w MH and 4 X T5s

I have most of the equipment above, Just undecided on the return pump as i need a powerfull enough pump that will aid in feeding my carx aswell.

As for rock and Aquascaping, Im goin completely DEAD rock this time around and will purchase 3 or 4 small pieces ultra grade liverock to seed the dead rock during cycling.
Aquascaping will be very open to allow lots of swimming space for fish and growing space for corals.

Salt: Ive sold my new bucket of seachem salt, decided to stay with Reef Crystals...

Here is my design of the tank...

Pics to follow when I recieve the tank...

Skimmer plumbing question

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:56am CST by FransSny

Hi guys,

i am sitting with a "interesting" dilemma, space between my sump & stand is to narrow to fit a skimmer bigger than TS1 in diamater. Unfortunately TS 1 is to small for the job.

So now I was thinking would it be possible to plumb 3 sumps on 1 large recirculating skimmer.

Otherwise I would have to get each sump its own recic skimmer

Skimmer overflowing

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:30am CST by Tim S

Hi all,

I've been putting up with a problem for some time now but it's just too much. I set my skimmer (Reef Ocopus DWN 200 or something) so that the bubble level is about 50mm below the cup rim. Any foam then gets pushed up over the rim. This tends to skim lightly as the scimate is almost black. The problem arrises when i top up or switch main pump off for a short while. When the skimmer returns to working volume it overflows like a boiling pot of milk on the stove. My skimmer is external and I only have space for a 2l bottle to collect skimmate. But regardless of this I cannot have my skimmer ejecting 10 litres of water every time something changes. I'v come to realise that when I change the filter wool with new it will also go beserk, so I open the valve on the outlet to drop the water level until it settle. Is this something one must just live with and manage or is there a remedy.

"tired of mopping floors"

Happy Birthday noproblem

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 5:58am CST by chikaboo

Happy Birthday dude - may you "sea" many many more and hope you have no problem's today noproblem:lol:

Great info on Carpet Anemones

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 11:27pm CST by poiromaniax

Check this out, some fantastic info on Carpet Anemones:

Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Aquarium Invertebrates: Carpet Anemones: Big, Beautiful, and Deadly

Which Solar water heater? - PLEASE HELP URGENT!

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 10:14pm CST by lIghty

Hi All

I'm needing to have a solar water heater fitted urgently! As far as I know there are 2 main types available, "Flat Plate type" and "Evacuated Tube type".

I do understand the differances between the 2, but if someone has knowledge why one is better than the other please shout, I have my thoughts but it would be nice having comfirmation from someone in the industry or someone that has had one fitted.

Also, if there is companies in the KZN area that you could recommend, preferably one that can offer the Eskom rebate.

Thanks in advance!

New Tank

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 10:05pm CST by Dikbek

Hello,

My name is Paul. I have never had a tank before. I moved into a new house two years ago. At the entrance and stairs there is a big triangle that I think would make a graet place for a marine tank. Problem is I don't know where to start or who to ask for help. Obviosly I need the tank first but who makes custom tanks in the Pretoria region.

I would appreciate some help or advise from anyone.

Thank you in advance

Paul

Nps setup, advice needed.

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 9:21pm CST by Fishman

hi guys. been away for a while and been thinkin really hard. im planning on setting up a new tank, thought i'd just run it by you guys. its a 3ft all glass. i have a 1000lt/h powerhead, 150 watt heater. i wanna drill the tank for an overflow to a 2ft fuge filled with chaeto and hundreds of pods i already have. is it possible to drill the back pane and still have a durso (external durso i think!) that will be silent? plan on keeping 2 or 3 colonies of sun corals and maybe a fish or 2, but not heavilly stocked. for lighting i was thinking of a simple blue led fixture, for viewing only. i do realise the feeding requirements of these corals and am willing to give it my best. am planning on feeding 3 times weekly. any thoughts?

Nps setup, advice needed.

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 9:21pm CST by Fishman

New member

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:54pm CST by Reef E

:wave2:Hallo I am 15 jears old and I hope jou like me:slayer:

hallo

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:48pm CST by Reef E

hallo I am Reef E and Iam 15 years old ,I hope you like me:wave2:

uv filter

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 6:17pm CST by naughtydragons

Hi guys, can anybody please tell me something about uv filters, which bacteria do thy kill? should i or not??

Microbelift

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 5:31pm CST by lanzo

HI guys

Dorry Pets will be getting stock of the Microbe-Lift this week...only the Marine range;)

Microbelift Artemiss

MICROBE-LIFT/Artemisa is a unique, herbal, immune-enhancing
stimulant, which reduces bacterial and fungal infections in fish showing
symptoms, such as: fin and tail rot, ulcers, bulging eyes (Exophthalmia),
milky skin, raised scales, mouth rot/fungas and dopsy (ascites).
MICROBE-LIFT/Artemiss will help boost the natural immune system of
the fish with no risk of building up future resistance, as can occur when
antibiotics are used.

MICROBE-LIFT/Artemiss will help to drive pathogenic bacteria off the
fish and, without a host, ultimately results in the death of the bacteria.
MICROBE-LIFT/Artemiss is effective at reduing bacterial infections as
well as ulcers and wounds, which often occur on goldfish and Koi.
Regular antibiotics may kill non-resistant bacteria, but will not heal
ulcers and will leave an open wound or ulcer sensitive to reinfection.
Even with deep ulcers and in a surprisingly short time span MICROBELIFT/
Artemiss additionally stimulates and accelerates regeneration of
damaged tissue until no trace of the wound remains. So even if an
antibodic treatment is used you should also use MICROBE-LIFT/Artemiss
to minimize reinfection.
MICROBE-LIFT/Artemiss can be used directly in any tank and is safe for
all aquatic life. It is also a great aide to use when acclimating fish to a new
Antibiotic treatments pose many problems
for water quality as well as kill nitrifying
bacteria in the biofilter so that daily water
changes become necessary in order to prevent
ammonia poisoning.

Microbelift Herbtana

MICROBE-LIFT/Herbtana is a unique, herbal,
immune-enhancing stimulant, which reduces: skin flukes
(gyrodactylus), gill flukes (Dactylogyrus), Ich
(ichthyophthirius multifillis), oodinum, costia (ichthyobodo
necater), chilonella and trichodina. Parasite infections are
characterized by symptoms, such as: milky skin, flashing
and heavy breathing. However, they can only be diagnosed
with certainty through microscopic examination.
Naturaly controlled by the fishs immune system, parasites
are present on most fish in very low levels at all times. When
stress levels increase, the ability of the immune system to
respond to its requirement to control the natural level of
parasites is directly affected. This poor response allows
parasites to increase in number, thus causing any of the
serious, above mentioned health issues in the host fish.
MICROBE-LIFT/Herbtana supports the fishs immune
system, driving off the excess parasites. Since they cannot
return to the fish during that treatment, the majority of the
parasites will starve without a host. So, although MICROBELIFT/
Herbtana does not directly kill parasites, it is
ultimately responsible for their death.
Antibiotic treatments pose many problems
for water quality as well as kill nitrifying
bacteria in the biofilter so that daily water
changes become necessary in order to prevent
ammonia poisoning.
For parasites:
· White Spots
· Flukes of Gill & Skin
· Chilodonella
· Costia
· Trichodina
· Oodinium

Microb-lift Nite-Out

MICROBE-LIFT/ Nite-Out II is designed specifically for aquarium waters that contain marine life. Its highly-specialized microbial consortium of nitrifying cultures are specially formulated to eliminate ammonia via a natural biological process termed nitrification. The cultures contain in MICROBE-LIFT/ Nite-Out II will establish, promote or stabilize and maintain nitrification in aquarium waters, eliminating the toxic effect of ammonia. MICROBE-LIFT/ Nite-Out II liquid nitrifying bacteria contains select strains of Nitrosomonas, Nitrospira and Nitrobacter. Nitrosomonas oxidize ammonia to nitrite and Nitrobacter and Nitrospira oxidize nitrite to nitrate.
Nitrification
Nitrosomonas Nitrobacter
NH NO2 NO3
Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate

MICROBE-LIFT/ Nite-Out comprises select microorganisms that are autotrophic able to use carbon dioxide as the sole source of carbon and are relatively slow growing, requiring specific conditions for optimum growth with typical cell divisions rates from 8 to 16 hours. Their performance and rate growth is impacted by the environmental parameters required for nitrification.

Directions
For optimum nitrification and ammonia removal, first treat your aquarium with MICROBE-LIFT/ Nite-Out , with select cultures to reduce organic levels that may inhibit the natural nitrifications process. Because nitrification requires adequate levels of alkalinity, check the aquarium waters pH level.
Note: Saltwater slows down bacterial action. For faster results add 25%-50% more product.

Microbe-lift Special Blend

A Complete Eco-System in a Bottle

Features and other benefits:
Dramatically reduces need for water changes
Reduces the frequency of cleaning
Good for salt and freshwater fish
Chemical free!
A new tank starter for biological cycling and boosting
An organic waste degrader
Naturally stimulates plant growth
Lowers ammonia levels and biologically reduces nitrates
Removes odors and clears cloudy water
Biological maintainer for established tanks
Enhances ability of plants to utilize light, water and nutrients
Breaks down residue on gravel, plants ,rocks, etc.
Breaks down protein foam

*Saltwater environments - the bacteria in this product will remain effective when used in marine environments with a specific gravity of 1.017 to 1.025. In marine tanks, add the aquarium salt mix and allow the water to circulate for 24 hours, then check and adjust the density. Add the bacteria after the new water has circulated for the 24-hour period.
Saltwater oceans are a highly stable environment with very little fluctuation in pH. The ocean waters dilute fish waste and organic matter. The bacteria in MICROBE-LIFT/Special Blend provides the assistance needed to break down the decaying organic matter and cycle certain elements, e.g. nitrogen and sulfur, etc. which may build up in your tank.

This product is NOT a chemical. It is harmless to humans, animals, fish and plants. Since we cannot control the pre-existing dynamics of individual aquaria, the above information and instructions are subject to many variables. Many situations may be unique in nature. We ask you to e-mail us your questions at: info@microbelift.com.
MICROBE-LIFT/Special Blend has a hydrogen sulfide odor which will dissipate quickly.

link of other guys that has used it:

Microbe-Lift (Special Blend) - UltimateReef.com

Electricity increase - 25%

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 3:43pm CST by lIghty

I've just heard, I believe Eskom has received a +-25% increase in electricity.......

Just make me wonder how many people will now start stealing electricity:whistling:

Nersa announces elec tariff hike

24 February 2010 - 13:30
By Sapa

The increase for Eskom tariffs for 2010 is 24,8 percent, beginning in April.

This has been announced by the National Energy Regulator of SA.

For 2011, it was 25,8 percent and the following year, 25,9 percent -- all beginning in April, Nersa chairwoman Cecilia Khuzwayo said.

It has approved an allowed revenue of R85 billion for 2010 to 2011, R109 billion for 2011 into 2012, and R141 billion for 2012/13.

This results in the average standard price of 41,57 cents per kilowatt hour for 2010/11, 52,3 cents per kilowatt hour for 2011 to 2012 and 65,85 cents per kilowatt hour for 2012/13.

The Multi Year Price Determination Two, which is abbreviated to MYPD2, runs from April 1, 2010, to March 31, 2013.

Khuzwayo said that when they studied Eskom, they took into consideration its cash flow, primary energy issues, operating expenditure and its asset base.

The impact on the poor was also taken into consideration.

The state owned power utility had applied for an increase of 35 percent every year for three years to help raise funds for a R385 billion power expansion programme.

Earlier, Khuzwayo said South Africa was more than 75 percent electrified and the importance of electricity could not be underestimated.

"Electricity is the democracy of the country," she said.

It was critical to ensure the supply of electricity and, that Eskom had been negatively affected by the global economic recession.

This had led to the loss of 900,000 jobs.

"It is clear that the economy is now in recession mode," she said.

Another very detailed build thread

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 3:22pm CST by leslie hempel

this guy has alot of $$$$'s

Due to take-off soon... - zeovit.com

Sps+lps+soft corals & fish 2010-02-25

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 2:22pm CST by Moolis

Hi reefers

Good news -!!!

We are landing a nice batch of pre-selected:slayer::slayer::slayer: corals and fish tomorrow.

See you this weekend!!!!

Look at this :
SPS =

SPS - Colored Acropora (A1) - Acropora Spp.
SPS - Colored Acropora (A2) - Acropora Spp.
SPS - Colored Acropora (A3) - Acropora Spp.
SPS - Colored Seriatopora - Seriatopora Hystrix
SPS - Montipora Coral (Colored) - Montipora spp

Other corals:
LPS - Red Rose Brain Coral - Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi
LPS - Encrusting Coral (Color) - Blastomussa Wellsi
LPS - Encrusting Coral 2 COLORS - Blastomussa Wellsi
LPS - Brain Coral Red - Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi
LPS - Red Rose Brain Coral - Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi
LPS - Brain Coral Green Metalic - Trachyphyllia Geoffroyi
LPS - Micromussa Green Metallic - Micromussa Spp.
Soft - Cauliflower (Orange) on Rock - Dendronephthya Divaricata
Soft - Pink Cladiella Soft Coral - Cladiella Colti
Soft - Yellow Cladiella Soft Coral - Cladiella Colti
Soft - Star Polyps Metallic Green - Clavularia Viridis
Soft - Sea Mats Green Metalic - Zoanthus Palythoa
Soft - Brown Feather Tube Worms - Sabellastarte Indica
Soft - Colored Ringed Mushroom - Discosoma Sp.
Soft - Colored Ringed Mushroom - Discosoma Sp.
Soft - Purple Furry Mushroom - Discosoma Sp.

Other:
Anemone - Long Tentacle Anemone - Actinia Tenebrosa
Anemone - Carpet Anemone Colored - Stichodactyla Haddoni

AND THEN FISH:
Angel - Bicolor Angel - Centropyge Bicolor
Angel - Majestic Angel - Euxiphipops Navarchus
Angel - Blue-Ringed Angel Juv - Pomacanthus Annularis
Angel - Regal Angel - Pygoplites Diacanthus
Angel - Zebra Angel - Genicanthus Lamarck
Cardinal - Cardinal Fish - Pterapogon Kauderni
Clown - Saddleback Clown - Amphiprion Polymnus
Fish - Knife Fish - Aeoliscus Strigatus
Goby - Pennant Glider - Valenciennea Strigata
Goby - Black Combtooth Blenny - Ecsenius Namiyei
Goby - Two Spot Goby - Signigobius Biocellatus
Goby - Orange Spotted Prawn Goby - Amblyeleotris Guttata
Tang - Foxface fish M - Lo Vulpinus
Tang - Foxface fish S - Lo Vulpinus
Tang - Magnificent Foxface - Lo Magnifica
Tang - Barred Rabbitfish - Siganus Virgatus
Tang - Long-fin Bannerfish - Heniochus Acuminatus
Tang - Yellow Surgeon - Acanthurus Olivaceus
Wrasse - Red-and-Blue Wrasse - Cirrhilabrus Spec
Wrasse - Redbreasted Maori Wrasse - Cheilinus Fasciatus

There is something for everyone in this shipment
PLUS WE STILL HAVE LOTS MORE IN STOCK!!!

Always hooked on "____" greetings
Moolis
PET STOP

.
.

All you ever needed to know about Reef Chemistry

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 11:43am CST by dallasg

Here is a great list of links with regards to Chemistry in the reef
Reef Chemistry Articles - Reef Central Online Community Archives

How to raise or lower reading

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 11:34am CST by SKnight

Hi,
I wonder if i have mised something? i am looking for some info with regards to maintaining good water.
is there a link to go to a thread with this stuff

if your ph is low add ...
if your ph is high add...
and all others to be watched

any help would be great

:)

Water recycle?

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 11:06am CST by vatso

Hi all

I have been thinking about this for some time now

How can we re cycle water? the reason we get rid of our old water is it's full of fish poo & some elements which we not sure of are removed.

can we not re cycle water - the ocean does & it's been around millions of years that it must carry on producing what is needed else it would all be used up by now.

my idea is that one has a DSB TANK!! where water is put in & all the cleaning things one can find like plants & shrimps & & &

One can dose to make sure the CA & MG are all in line.

would this work??

DON'T JUST SAY NO!!!! Think about it

New Member

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 10:50am CST by adyjhb

Hi there

Well Im new to the Marine Aquarium environment. Im in the process of getting my new tank built. I am looking forward to getting intouch with fellow aquariusts to dicuss the variuos aspects of the hobby.

Water Changes

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 9:42am CST by Jaco Schoeman

We can get really technical here, but to keep it quite simple, can I get your views on the following aspect of doing water changes;

Question:

Is it better to replace 10% water per week, or 5% water twice a week? (total still is 10%)

(note that all values are just examples to simplify things);)

niger trigger for sale: cape town

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 10:37pm CST by Difficult marine

Fish for saleCommon Name:

niger trigger

Scientific Name:

-

Size of fish

12cm

How long have you had the fish?

about 4 years

Is the fish eating?

even bit my finger

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Your location.

cape town

Price:

R300

Photo's:

reason for sell...he ate my two black and white clown within one min...i want cut his dummy safe the clown but my wife stop me.....100% reef safe

Notes:

-

Polystyrene glue

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 9:28pm CST by Hannesco

Help please

Hi am looking for some type of glue to glue polystyrene to iron.

I am not sure if you get glue like that?

Thanks

Helloooo!!!

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 9:01pm CST by llewellyn

Greetings to everyone at MASA!
My name is Llewellyn. I have owned a fresh water tank for the past 5 years and have recently decided to start up a marine tank.
So far I have purchased a 4 foot tank for my setup and still have a long way to go.
Although I have done some research...I am needing alot of help from the experts.
:13::thumbup:

ID this 'spider' or 'crab' pls.

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 8:24pm CST by neo

hello,
i have a hitch hiker that is very shy, very fast.
Saw it twice in 3 weeks and again tonight, it hides as soon as it detects light or movement.
I managed some pics but very blurry,
if you could try and id it, maybe.
it kinda resemble a spider but hairy, might me some crab but i dont see any claws.
the red in pictures indicate the actual hiker, the green the eyes

Noisy Skimmer

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 4:20pm CST by Manic

Hey everyone,

Fired up my brand new orca 135 skimmer today and it is crazy noisy. Gives off a humming sound. When I take the venturi off the skimmer is dead silent. Also if I pinch the air tube closed it is silent. It is just when the venturi is on. Is it supposed to be like this because it is getting a bit irritating. The pump is OTP3000 with pin wheel impeller. How can I make it quieter?

[FS] Canon 400d + 18-55mm lens !

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 1:57pm CST by Slummies

Hey guys.

Got this awesome camera for sale. it has been looked and cared for greatly since i bought it a 2 years ago!

this is a great entry level dSLR for those of you wanting to get into photography a bit more! not only for those of you starting out though. i have been submitting photographs to various surfings mags from this camera!

comes with, Strap, lens, and camera body

Will ship at ur expense

cheers

caulerpa - good or bad

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 1:49pm CST by dropzone newbee

hey members

i have quite a bit of caulerpa popping up in my tank !
whats your take on this ? seems to grow super quick and pops up evrywhere ?
how can one maintain this or eradicate it if need be ?
is it the foxface or copperband that eat this ? or , do i just need to manually take it out ?

thanks in advance

Fox Face Magnifica for sale: cape town

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 1:46pm CST by Brandon WJ

Fish for saleCommon Name:

Fox Face Magnifica

Scientific Name:

-

Size of fish

12 - 15 cm

How long have you had the fish?

2 months

Is the fish eating?

yes

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Your location.

cape town

Price:

will sell or exchange for other fish

Photo's:

Notes:

Hi I have a Fox Face Magnifica I would like to sell or exchange.
Sorry I dont have a pic as he is in my sump.

Best offer or exchange gets him.

Custom made aquarium less 35%

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 12:45pm CST by Moolis

Hi Reefers

To ensure that we do not only sell imported aquariums ;) ( Red Sea + Jebo + Juwel aquarium SPECIAL & Red Sea products - Marine Aquariums of South Africa) we will give a 35% discount :slayer: on all custom made aquariums ordered during the same period:yeahdude:

* on condition that the deposit have been paid in time PLUS you buy all the hardware from PET STOP

For more info:

go to Online PetShop
Call 012-329 8965 OR
Email to moolis@petstopsa.com

Butcherman's 4ft tank

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 10:16am CST by butcherman

Hey guys things are finally tanking shape.
So i decided to start a tank thread and not post in my intro thread any more.

The tank currently as is consists of the following:

DT = 1200mm x 450mm x 450mm +-240l with corner over flow 50mm plumbing
SUMP = std 3ft tank +- 75l
Return pump = 2000l/h (but only about 1600l/p with headloss)
Substrate = Aragamax sugar fine
Lights = 4 x T5 54w light unit
Skimmer = tunze 9010
DSB = play sand
Flow = 1 x SUN SUN 5000l/p
1 x Seio Prop Pump P1500 - 5800l/p
1 x Seio Prop Pump P320 - 1200l/p
Heater = 300w

FTS

So far the biggest challenge to deal with on this tank is the high of the sump compartment which is only 600mm.
I'm still playing around with the flow in the tank at the moment (which is about 13000l/p in theory). Also waiting for the dust to settle from the argamax( you can see the dust on the back of the pic).
also looking to build a ATS, upgrade the lights, install a top up system and build a nice hood over the tank.

Various frags for sale: EL

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 9:40am CST by Mudshark

Various frags for freeCommon Names:

Montis

Scientific Names:

-

Size of frags

-

How long have you had the frags?

-

Are the frags mounted?

No

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection between 8pm-8:30pm

Your location.

EL

Price:

-

Photo's:

Various montis up for grabs. They're lying in sand, so the sooner you fetch the better shape they'll be in.

Notes:

-

Crab Trap Supreme!!

Posted: February 23rd, 2010, 8:55am CST by brentv

Hey Guys was thinking of a way to get those pesky crabs out of an established tank without a speargun or doing any remodelling, came up with this solution!
:void(0)" target="_blank">

Chopped a coke bottle in half and stuck the top in inverted, a bit of calamari and .... bob's your auntie!!! I've caught 4 in one night!
put it in after lights out and next morning you are sorted. semms if you keep it upright in your tank, but with a ledge slightly above or wedged in rocks, the fish don't go in!!!
Has anyone else tried this or has a different method!?

[FS] JVC KD-AV7100 Head unit for sale with 7inch touch screen

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 7:01am CST by Ross

I have a 3 month old JVC KD-AV7100 Head unit for sale. (Selling as I am changing cars)

7 inch retractable touch screen that can play the following media types: DVD, DVD-Audio, DVD-ROM, DivX, JPEG, MP3/WMA, MPEG4, DVD-VR/DVD+VR, DVD-RAM, CD, VCD, SVCD,

Inputs: iPod Control, Aux Input
Front Inputs: Aux Input, SD, USB
Outputs: Aux out, Sub Out

Revers Camera - Manual or Automatic when putting in reverse.

I paid R5500 for the unit, I want R3500

Sun Coral Update

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 10:27pm CST by vatso

Quick update here is a pic I took tonight - fed about an hour ago

Here is from 2 weeks ago

Moving Help Needed

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 10:04pm CST by XV3

I need to move my tank and live stock, will be moving to nelspruit from jhb, I have 1 Long Tenticle Anemone, 1 Fire Shrimp, 1 Dancing Shrimp, 1 Cleaner Shrimp,1 Lion Fish, 1 Blue Cheek Goby, 3 Hermot Crabs, 3 Turbo Snails, 1 Clown Fish.

What would be the best way to transport these lovely animals, and then once I reach there, what would be the best way to get them back in the tank, I will obviously take my water, sand & Live rock.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

World War 3??

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 8:27pm CST by Furbz

hey guys,
i have a yellow eyed kole tang and i have added a orange shoulder tang
now to my tank.
the orange shoulder is around 1 com larger that the kole.

and the kole is really giving it hell.
its got nasty tang cuts.

my question is, do i have to haul one of them out or will this pass over time?
i am worried that my orange shoulder is going to stress itself to death due to the kole's aggression.

A Moral Question

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 6:53pm CST by poiromaniax

Here's a difficult one.

This test only has one question, but it's a very important one.
By giving an honest answer, you will discover where you stand morally.
The test features an unlikely, completely fictional situation in which
you will have to make a decision.

THE SITUATION

Johannesburg has seen it's worst storm in living memory. There is chaos
all around with severe flooding.
You are a photo-journalist working for a major newspaper, and you're
caught in the middle of this epic disaster.
The situation is nearly hopeless. You're trying to shoot career-making
photos.
There are houses and people disappearing into the water.
Nature is unleashing all its destructive fury.

THE TEST

Suddenly, you see a man in the water. He is fighting for his life,
trying not to be taken down with the debris.
You move closer ... somehow, the man looks familiar ...
You suddenly realise who it is ... It's Julius Malema!
You notice that the raging waters are about to take him under forever.
You have two options:
1st you can save the life of Julius Malema or 2nd you can shoot a
dramatic Pulitzer Prize-winning photo, documenting the death of one of
the country's most powerful men!

THE QUESTION

Here's the question, and please give an honest answer. . .
Would you select high contrast colour film, or would you go with a more
classic ..... black and white film?

SARK new website layout

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 6:03pm CST by LuckyFish

Hi guys,

I just went onto SARK after a very long time. This new layout is aweful, just like many others from overseas.

I just hope MASA is not going to downgrade in the same way.
Mods, if you are going to change things like that, please let us know and we can have a poll about it.

Thanks in advance

RO Units Which one to Buy

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 5:30pm CST by nick_fraser

Hi Guys

I need to know which RO unit i should by

Here are a few in have found that are below the R1500 range. which one whould i go for?

RO/DI UNITS

50 GPD Reverse Osmosis System [RO C1] - R1,299.00 : Purification Technology

Marine Tank RO System - R999.00 : Purification Technology

Centropyge multifasciatus

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 3:34pm CST by Kunhardt

Anyone had any experience with these little guys? I am in the position where I can get one in the week ahead, not being very common and actually quite a cool looking little dwarf angel I am keen to buy it. Guaranteed eating when they ship. I have read they are notoriously hard to get to eat so thats great, I am just wondering about compatibility with other fish...I have a Flame Angel already and how reef safe they are? I am not worried about a nip here or there, its ripping corals appart that scares me :P

my new tank

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 3:12pm CST by sacha

HI there to all.
i have started a tank and have been putting in little fish from the rock pools here in Wilderness, Garden Route

Just wanting some info on a few things
my tank is 1.2m i think it is 100 ltr
have a protein skimmer and cascade 500 external filter
also a gravel filter
put beach sand and sea water in, a few rocks from the beach. all is looking ok so far:thumbup:

questions

I have 2 sea urchins - What can i feed them ?? how many can i have in the tank ??
I have 2 sea anemons - what can i feed them ?? how manhy can i have in the tank??
Have about 10 tiny star fish. the ones that blend into the rocks, very small, almost look web like. - what can i feed them ???
have 4 hermit crabs
have 1 limpet who seems fine - anything i should give him
have 4 timy shrimps
have a few fish from the rock pools - rock fish, stumpneus, black tail, streepies
then we have a small sole - what can i feed it ?? he is tiny.

should i feed the tank just marine fish flakes or should i also give them food such as bits of pilchard, prawn and red bait. I put some in the other day and they loved it. Just worried that it will make the tank dirty. how often should i feed my tank.
gave the sea urchins and anemones some pilchard and they ate it away. Is this a good thing ???

Also what temp should i have my tank. seeing that it is mainly little things from the rock pools here.

Any input would be great

[FS] swop External skimmer for internal

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 3:11pm CST by ziyaadb

Hi all

I am looking to swop my EXTERNAL Recirculating Reefocto Orca for an
INTERNAL OTX200.
Reason: my next tank will have the skimmer internal and it will be a waste to keep the external its about 7 months old.

Let me know

Slagters First Reef

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 2:48pm CST by Slagter

Hey guys and girls.

This is the deal: I am waiting for the tank, but the excitement in me is starting to build up nicely now, so I thought I'd start a thread.

The tank specs:

DT: 1220 x 600 x 600 - 432 Liters
Sump: 800 x 600 x 400 - 192 Liters

Total Literage: 624 Liters

I am guessing that with displacement and the fact that the water level will be at 550mm I will probably have closer to 500 liters in the system.

Filtration:

I bought a Deltec APH 525 Skimmer rated a 700L for a Low bioload. I might add a TS1 as well further down the line, but the Deltec should do the business.

The Sump will have a DSB in it, to a height of 10 - 15 cm. (If someone would be so kind as to make a seeding donation from their DSB, I would really appreciate it.)

I'm also Looking into an Algae Scrubber. Seems Easy enough to DIY one into the sump. I also have 2 x 54 T5's for the sump, so I might look at growing some Chaeto in the sump? We shall see.

The return pump is an Ehiem compact 3000+ (Thanks Chris)

Live Rock is going to be approx 40 KG's of Fiji Rock.

Lighting:

I am getting the Real Inc 1250mm Unit with 2 x 150watt MH's 20 000K and 2 x 54 watt T5's (Either 1 x actinic and 1 x 10 000K or 1 x 14 000K and 1 x Actinic?)

Water Movement:

I have 4 x Seio Prop Pumps. I have 3 x 2000L/h pumps and 1 x 5800L/h pump. (Probably overkill, but I have enough that I can remove one or 2.) All of them are magnet mounts.

The Display:

I bought 31kg's of Base Rock from Lanzo on Saturday, as well as a big bucket of Brightwells NeoMarine Salt. I believe it is good stuff! I also got a refractometer from him! Thanks Lanzo, you have a really nice spot man, and the help was great. Tiger was there too and the advice given, was very good. Appreciate it guys.

Ok, back on track... Was thinking of creating 2 "reef areas", one on either side of the tank giving enough space for some swimming fish. But we shall look at the scaping when the tank arrives.

Heating:

I'll be using 1 x 300watt Jager and a 150watt Jager.

Cooling:

I got 2 x 220V 80mm fans which I will add to the canopy or the sump, still deciding. I can't afford a chiller right now, but seeing as Joburg is set to be cooling down a bit shortly, this gives me time to start saving for one.

Is there anything I am missing? Well, besides the pictures... :razz:

Just a quick word of thanks to everyone who has added their 2 cents to so many of my questions. Without all of your help and advice, this tank would never have gotten off the ground... :yeahdude:

Great community this. :thumbup:

looking for: Phosphate reactor

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 2:45pm CST by Singularity

Hi mense

As the title says, i am looking for a phosphate reactor for a 500L tank....

various Ca reactor parts

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 1:53pm CST by sweetnsour

sup fellow reefers

there are a few items im looking for, for my Ca reactor:

needing the following and hoping some of you may have a few parts lying around?

1. solonoid
2. bubble counter and bracket
3. restrictor clamp

and just maybe a high pressure ph prob and controller (if available at a good price)

Red Sea + Jebo + Juwel aquarium SPECIAL & Red Sea products

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 1:43pm CST by Moolis

Hi Reefers

This is it look here A - SPECIALS
This is the specials:slayer::yeahdude: for now. ;)

More to be added during the following days:razz:

Safe Angels for Mixed Reef tank!

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 1:11pm CST by brentv

Hey Guys,
I would like to know what you think is a safe angel (probably pygmy angel!) for a mixed tank soft corals, lps, sps, anemone's etc. I have caught Jumping beans, multispinners before down this side of the coast, and they seem to nip at some of the corals!!
What do you guys think, coz if I add one to my new 2.7m tank, their is no way of catching him out? do you think that some beans might not nip or do they all generally? I get mixed responses from different people that put them in their DT's

Bacteria Dosing

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 1:02pm CST by Manic

Hey Everyone,

I just started filling my new tank and was thinking of dosing bacteria. There still a few questions I have though and can't seem to find a definite answer. Here's a bit of background info on the tank. The total system volume including sump is around 600L. The skimmer I have is rated for 1200L. I'm going to be using a 250W 20 000K MH. The display tank is 900mm X 900mm X 600mm (High). I'm going to use 50Kg of live rock that I have had for about a year in my other tanks. I'm also going to use 30Kg of base rock.

Now on to the questions:

1) I haven't set up a dsb yet (I have a lot of space for one). I've read that dosing bacteria and having a dsb almost counteract each other. Is this right, should I not have dsb then.

2) Which bacteria should I use?

3) What else must I dose along with the bacteria. So for example, brightwells MB7, should I also dose reef fuel?

At last I got some Florida Ricordeas!!!!

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 12:56pm CST by Dean76

I know this is not one of my best pics but just wanted to photograph them quickly and share my excitement and the new coral with the site. Please look past the algae as that is an ongoing battle....LOL. Please could you also post pics of your Ricordeas in your tanks to this thread as I would really like to see them?
Thanks
Dean

Sun Sun Light unit?

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 12:01pm CST by Slagter

Hey guys...

Due to the fact that I cannot find any SE 150watt MH bulbs in the 14000K light spectrum or above, I am buying a new lighting unit. The problem is, I can't afford R8000 for an Aqua Medic or equivalent. So I am looking at the Budget systems. The Sun Sun system has 2 x 20000K 150watt DE bulbs, 2 x 10 000K 54watt T5's and some Blue LED moonlights.

So the question is this really: Is this enough light for SPS? In the future I will make this tank an SPS tank, but at the moment it will be used for softies and easy to keep corals. I'd also really like a nemmie when the tank is ready for one. (I believe 6 months to a year?)

What are your thought on this light unit? Please bear in mind my budgetary constraints.

I think the sunsun and the Real Inc are the same thing?

PS: It's this one: Real Lighting Products

Thanks.

Sean

Buying a SLR Camera

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 11:24am CST by ReefMaster_SA

Howsit Guys I want to Buy A SLR camera , Dont know that much about it i saw a few and need Help on which one to Take

.
Sony DSLR-A500 18-55mm Kit

Sony Alpha 230 Zoom Lens Kit(18-55mm +75-300mm

Canon 1000D 18-55mm lens kit

Canon EOS 450D with 18-55mm F3 .5.6.IS lens

Dont know much about SLR cam's But do they All have macro lenz

and which one should I chose

Frag Etiquette

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 11:11am CST by Nsteyn

Hi all

As a nuub I have a question.
What is the etiquette with regards to asking for coral frags..

For instance, if I visit someone who has some nice corals, may I ask for a frag, do I wait for him/her to offer (:P) do I offer to buy a frag or do I offer a swap if I have any (at this stage I have none to offer :P)

What is your feelings with regards to this?

Tnx.

Niel.

local triggerfish species - juveniles

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 11:11am CST by Megalodon

hi guys,

does anyone know what local species of triggerfish we get? I caught a junvenile rececently that appears to be able to change colour and texture, and patterns of his skin! 'normal state' appears to be a type of leopard print with blue bits in the head area... no pics as yet as I don't want to stress him out by catching him again.. he is in a tank that u can only see from the top

Hallo fish world

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 11:01am CST by Louis Scheepers

Hi everyone.

I have been following the MASA forums for quite a while now and decided that it is time to join...

I have been keeping tropical fish since I was in Gr. 10 (2001), but sold everything when I went to Varsity. I have always been interested in marines, but couldn't afford it. Last year June, I got the opportunity to take over my future-brother in-law's marine setup. Since I am still a student I don't have a lot of money to spend, so the tank is evolving very slow... but this is what I've got:

Main display: 122(l)x45(w)x65(h) 10mm glass (top bracing)
Sump: 64x38x35 (4mm glass)

The filter is the old wet-dry trickle filter system, with bio-balls. I have an old Queen skimmer that is not the best, but it works fine. I also have a phospban reactor 150. Since I have a major algae problem, I built a DIY Coil Denitrator about 4months ago, and it seems to work very well.

I have 4x 39watt T5's that supply daylight from 12:30 till 20:00. And 2x 54watt T5's both actinic's on from 10:00 till 22:00.

I dont know how much life rock, but there are two big piles... probably 20kg?!?

Circulation is ok, with a 3000l/h return pump from the sump, and 3x 1000l/h powerheads in the tank.

Lifestock:

Fish: 1 clown, 1 pajama cardinal, 1 scopas tang.
Corals: Green striped mushrooms, cladiellia coral, green and blue pollyps.
Inverts: 2 Pacific Cleaner shrimps, 1 Red fire shrimp, 2 dwarf hermit crabs, 2 turbo snails.

The front glass of my tank is scratched quite badly, so I want to have that replaced (don't know where the best place is to buy glass). The cabinet is wood only, and since I dont trust that, I want to build a steel frame when the glass is being fixed.

I have a major algae problem. First it was red slime algae, that came with the tank and covered everything. I got rid of that by using "nored" or something like that, it said on the bottle that it is reef safe, but my soft corals took a big hit. That happened last year August. Since then green hair algae, other hard green algae that looks like grass, and one that almost looks like Ivy has spread all over the tank... I dont know what to do.

My paramaters are as follow:
Temperature: 26*C
Salinity: 1,026sg.
P.H.: 8,5
Alkalinity: 8dKH.
Calcium: 430ppm.
Magnesium (dont know)
Phosphate: 0
Nitrate: 0
Ammonium: 0

Will be glad if anyone could help.

Thanx

Louis

Sun Corals Spawn phenomenon

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 10:57am CST by Jaco Schoeman

Hi

I have to tell you the entire story in order to fully undertsand the events taking place, so please bare with me:;)

A few weeks back, on a Friday I went to Lanzo to pick up four Sun Coral colonies. As I drive past the airport back home, he asked me to take two boxes of SPS to the airport to be shipped to DBN. So, we loaded all the SPS in bags and boxes, and my suns in bags only.

At about 12h30 when I got from the N1 highway onto the R21, I immediately hit massive traffic (welcome to Gauteng:P) I am not joking, but I only got the airport from that spot that afternoon just after 16h00!!!!:whistling:

My car measure 37.5deg in that traffic, and I had the aircon on blowing over the sun coral bags just to keep the temp down a bit.

After offloading at the airport, I was on my merry way back, and just as I arrived in Boksburg, my clutch cable snapped, and I was left next to road at News Cafe. I would have had a few :peroni: but I had the sun corals in the "oven." I ran over to Builders Warehouse, bought one or two "boer maak 'n plan" spares and fixed the car to get back home. All in all, I came home at 18h30 that evening, tired, wired and with a huge headache.

To my absolute shock (but no surprise), when I picked the bags, the bags were luke warm - REALLY, luke warm... I thought they were gonners for sure.

Then I saw the weirdest thing - two of the suncorals (they were Tubastrea Faulkneri) had realeased hundreds of little orange round balls, like fish eggs. It immediately dawned on me that they had to have spawned. Not sure weather the corals or spawn would survive, I introduced the lot into the tank, and my chromis when ape on the little orange balls.:(

I thought I had lost them all, till last week, when, with closer inspection I saw three small little orange spots on my LR. This weekend I counted 15 orange spots on my LR, and some have clear visible mouths.

Does anyone know what could have triggered those suns to spawn? Was is the temperature maybe?

I must report however that those two colonies, although alive, are not doing the best yet. They are still struggling to open up, but they are getting there.

The other two are my headache though. The one is the rare branging orange suncoral and the other is a branching black suncoral. I have noted some tissue disintegration from them, and they are REALLY struggling to open up. Last night was the first time I could actually see some tentacles from the orange, but the blacks only have the mouths visible. Other than that, just skelton and the died off parts :(.

I understand that they took on massive knock, which was beyond my control, and that survival might be 0.5% I am trying my utmost best however, and hope they make it.

But for the Tubastrea Faulkneri spawning, that was quite cool I think.

Stable KH (Kalkwasser??)

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 10:53am CST by Tiger

Hi All!!:thumbup:

Since the beginning i've been battling with LPS's in my system and need some help.

I had a chat with a fellow reefer and discussed my LPS problem.

We also discussed my new strategy of wanting to move away from any dosing in my system to just more frequent water changes.. But even with more frequent water changes my LPS still battle.!?!?:P

He shared with me the importance of KH. Basically if you maintain a stable KH in your system, all other parameters will become more stable as well. I have been using KH and PH buffer but my KH still fluctuate to often and drastically. From my research it basically states that if KH fluctuates, the entire system and parameters change.

He also told me that he recently removed he's kalkstirrer from he's system and performed more frequent water changes and dosed manually if needed and all of he's LPS's Died.

Well, I did'nt really have cash for a kalkstirrer and he advised that I should start using kalkwasser. By dripping this every night it will keep my KH stable and thus stabilise all other Param like PH, Cal, Mag etc.

I then started dripping kalkwasser on Saterday en yesterday my LPS (Trumpet) opened up completely!! This obviously did something right!!

My questions are as follow: Does kalkwasser really keep KH stable. If I find that my KH is dropping should I drip more kalkwasser? There are so many views in terms of stable KH. All I know is that the kalkwasser did something right with my LPS's opening up??!!?!

Please can I have your views on this and what might have been the problem with my LPS's all along??

DIY OverFlow Pipe

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 9:50am CST by donkey

My DIY Overflow pipe

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=DnWpQEkeatE

:thumbup:

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/22/hi'

hi

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 9:49am CST by donkey

Hi guys nice site u have here

:thumbup:

Best method to apply hammertite to stand

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 9:07am CST by ziyaadb

For all those that used hammerite would it be better if its painted on or spray painted on? Which would be the better longer lasting option?

Hi All Please help with Lights...

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 9:03am CST by Tanz

Good morining all. I would like to know what is the dif between T5 and T8 lights. We were talking to an owner of a pet shop and he said that T8's are better but couldnt say why. What is better and why?

Urgent help needed Percula Clownfish Illness or other

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 8:11am CST by Jaco Schoeman

Hi

I found my Percula Clownfish this weekend floating as if on a trans inside its' torch coral. Then I saw a yellow/white bubble on the righthand side, just behind the Perctoral fin. The fish is still swimming, eating, chasing the damsels and does not seem ill. It's color is a bit dull, not the bright orange it is supposed to be.

I think it may be one of two things:
1) Either it may have cauliflower disease, but this looks more like a bubble, not so much the fungus type cauliflower.

2) A mantis or pistol shrimp might have taken a shot at it. I know about a pistol in the tank, but not a mantis.

What is your thoughts? What should I do? Copper medication is a no-go.;)

difference bet DE and SE MH bulbs?

Posted: February 22nd, 2010, 8:03am CST by ziyaadb

Can someone please explain the difference between DE and SE MH bulbs. I know the obvious difference in the contact points. But why is it that SE bulbs do not need a UV glass and DE need the UV glass?

Starfish

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 2:46am CST by duplo2

Hi, I am new to this site. But I have a question that i hope someone can help me with.

I have small starfish all over my salt water aquarium,they appear to be eating some of my corals they climb all over them and i see the corals are not liking it,looks like they are actually eating my corals and some are dying. How can i get rid of them? I have tried picking them out but there are so many of them, that it would take me forever. They are taking over my tank . Please help :(

SA live rock....

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 9:01pm CST by luwaynecrous

Hi there , Want to know what the reefers think of local live rock, eg. Off the coast of Port Elizabeth? Good or Bad?

foxface injury

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 8:55pm CST by maj

Hi guys,

seems like it aint my wknd,firstly i have a harry houdini fire goby,just hoping that he will re appear.

now,my foxface has a tiny hole/bruise on his side,he doesnt seem troubled,still eating like a dog.Still swimming normally.
Only tank mates are the cleaner wrasse,spotted brown surgeon clarki clown.

like a pin prick sized hole,best pic i could get

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 768x1024 and weights 140KB.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 768x1024 and weights 121KB.

RO unit question

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 8:54pm CST by Warr7207

I have had an RO unit for 2 years, and bought it 2nd hand. I have always tested the TDS and have 000 from day one. It is a unit with 3 filters and resin chamber. Neither have been changed.

I make about 75-100 litres a week. I was wondering if my TDS meter is broken or uncalibrated ?

I have also tested my tapwater and this reads at 109, and my swimming pool comes in at a whopping 744.

Mini-MACSA, anyone???

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 8:36pm CST by Reef Maniac

Hi everyone,

During our Central SA meeting at the Free State university this afternoon, the thought came up that we would like to arrange a sort of "mini MACSA" workshop/conference here in Bloemfontein.

The idea is to start at (say) 14:00 on a Saturday afternoon, have some marine biology and chemistry lectures during the afternoon, have a braai the evening, have a few more lectures or discussions on Sunday morning and close at (say) 12:00.

The biology department of the varsity will host us (venue), and they will be able to give lectures on fish diseases, micro flora, marine biology, in-depth discussion on DLSB's etc. They should also be able to persuade one of their chemistry department colleagues to give us a detailed discussion on the chemical processes happening in our tanks (calcium, alkalinity, nitrate, phosphate, etc.)

I'm sure that we could persuade a few of our local (SA) gurus to chip in with an interesting talk or two - thinking here about Nemo's Janitor, Bob the Reef Builder, Alan, Mekaeel, Millepora, Leslie Hempel, Ed, Neil, Lanzo, etc. (What about a tank photography lecture from Ross, Rory or Sean ???) - who's volunteering???

The idea is to have a more informal setup than the yearly IMACSA, and to not make any money out of this - purely for the enjoyment and advancement of the hobby as a whole, and to specifically boost the hobby awareness here in the Free State. The only cost would probably be for the Saturday evening braai, traveling, and for your accommodation on Saturday night. Even that can be minimized, however, as we are all prepared to accommodate people in our homes (Vrystaat gasvryheid...).

So, what do you people say - good idea, or are we wasting our time...

Hennie

My Green Zoanthid Polyps

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 8:10pm CST by arab NA

2 years old

My Frogspawn

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 8:02pm CST by arab NA

1 year old

diy coil Denitrator

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 6:54pm CST by Annoying

Ok, I've read allot about these coil denitrators and thaught that why don't make one. Like always in marine bigger is better;)! So I decided if I'm going to do it why not overdo it... In place of only one pilar with the coils I'll use three with on loooooong piece of tubing connecting them. It's going to be syphoned so no pumps required. I just want to ask one thing, what do you guys think will be the best thing to use for inside the tubing(I don't know if it would work but wouldn't it be better if the filter medium was inseide the tubing and not inside the tubing stand?). Bioballs would be the easiest bacause it would be easy to throw them in the tubing or maybe cyramic rings but any help would be appreciated.

Ps. If someone is wondering why I just don't use DSB the awnser is my sump is just to small to do an effective job.

Marine shops worth visiting in Germany

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 6:53pm CST by Moolis

Hi reefers

I am going to INTER ZOO in Nurnberg 2010-05-13 to 16

I am leaving early 2010-05-09 and come back later 2010-05-21

During that extra time before and after the expo I am going to visit some of my suppliers, but I will have 2 days for myself!!:slayer:

Now i need your help!!!!!
What to go and see in these 2 days?
I would like to visit:

A club or association of marines
A good Zoo (marines!)
A few different Marine shops:thumbup:
Private aquariums if at all possible.:1:

Any suggestions or contact details would REALLY be appreciated!!!

PS. If you intend to go over yourself, feel free to contact me.

Hair algae

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 5:48pm CST by hiralall

Hi guys My tank is slowly getting over run by hair alage. After some reading it seems that there are two methods of solving this problem viz building an algae scrubber or cooking the rocks. i would like your views on which method i should use
Many Thanx

OTP 2000 pump replacement

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 4:13pm CST by martinhal

I have a RO DNW -150 skimmer that comes with a OTP 2000 pump. Is there another make of pump I could used without any mods ?

(Jhb) Looking for MicroAlgae starter disc and culture medium?

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 1:37pm CST by abgg118

Hi again,

Unless someone in Jhb has some greenwater starter culture for me (which doesn't seem to be the case), I've decided to import some nannochloropsis culture starting discs and f/2 culture medium from Florida-Aqua-Farms.com.

Now, I already have rotifer cysts, fine-meshed collecting cups/gadgets, etc. so I won't be ordering any of these. I was just wandering whether someone else would want to order something, then we can split the shipping costs.

I'll only be ordering 2x Culture Starter Discs and 2x 200ml culture medium.

I can't remember exactly how much the shipping was last time, but it wasn't earth-shattering, and I really need to get my greenwater and rotifers going again - for feeding the filter-feeders and trying to raise some clown fry. Even if I get starter culture somewhere, it may be better to feed the proper f/2 formula rather than the makshift plant-fertiliser I used to use.

Also, take into account there is also an "import tax" on this side (10% or 14% - can't remember).

So have a look at their website and let me know if you're interested.

Cheers,
Gideon

[FS] Great Dane pups for sale

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 11:52am CST by lanzo

Hey guys

i have 5 Great Dane pumps for Sale

Birth Date: 25/12/2009

Age: 8weeks

Dewormed and Vaccinated.

Dark Chocolate Colours with white socks and breast

3 Males & 2 Females

R1500(each)neg

Sulking Leather

Posted: February 21st, 2010, 11:04am CST by cptmayhem

Hi guys,

Just looked in my tank this am and found my leather coral all slumped and shrivelled, with none of it's thingies extended.

What are the signs to look for when trying to identify whether it's just sulking, or something is actually wrong with it?

It's in an area of reasonable flow, and is midway up the tank. All parameters are fine (tested this morning) and the only thing that needs fixing is the water level - need to do an RO top-up run.

One thing that did happen last night (while I was at the rugby) is that the skimmer all of a sudden started skimming VERY wet, spewing all its bubbles back into the tank (it's a hang-on skimmer) which might have "stressed" it. But surely overnight it would have recovered?

Leaf Wrasse

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 9:55pm CST by sean_koekemoer

Does anyone have some concrete info wrt Leaf wrasse?? Are they peaceful fish?? Are they also throwing rocks over??? Any info please:)

Anyone in Pmb want a cleaner wrasse?

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 5:34pm CST by b-rad

I have two cleaner wrasse in my tank and the one keeps nailing the other one, so I caught the poor little guy and put him in my sump for now, Im would like someone to have it and perhaps get a few coral frags:)

Marine Tank

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 4:32pm CST by venus

Hi to all

Bug wants to bite again, packed up 2 years ago after being in the game for 20 years.

Just Checking out things at moment

thanx

[FS] Few bargain items

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 3:03pm CST by Atilla

hi everyone

i have the following for sale:

2 x 3foot Daz T5 units holding 3 globes each - @ R350 each

BRANDNEW (never been used) RO unit - R1000

a 2L CO2 bottle - R150

2 MH 250W single ended units R1000 each - the ones in the pics is from brentv's tank, but is exactely the same. Very bright lights

shot guys:biggrin:

Free fishies!

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 11:56am CST by adele

Hi everyone,

Our tank is overpopulated and want to get rid of some fish. Check out the pics, if you want them, come and get them... FOR FREE! :slayer::slayer:

Freefish pictures by goggi - Photobucket

My Green Hammer

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 11:36am CST by arab NA

What do you guys think?:)

Water changes during cycling....

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 10:14am CST by luwaynecrous

Been wondering, I have a 4ft tank with 30 kg of live rock, and has been cycling for about 4 weeks now. Have the diatoms, and the Nitrates are dropping, so everything looks well. Just want to know should I be doing water changes, and how often during cycling? :confused1:

Goldie heaven

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 9:33am CST by Moolis

Hi Reefers

IT IS GOLDIE HEAVEN @ Pet Stop. We have 100+ goldies in stock!!!

Species = Sunburst, Blue eye Squimipinnis female, Blue eye Squimipinnis male, Carberryi, Dispar, Evansi, Kashiwae & Tuka

Look @ this :thumbup::slayer::yeahdude:

What makes a tank good, TOTM worthiness??

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 9:19am CST by dallasg

Ok i am interested to see what everyone thinks about what makes a tank great.
Is it the size?
is it the livestock?
is it the behind the scenes?
all of the above?
the look of it?

what wow factors to people look for? eg myself i dont like big tanks, i prefer nano's and pico's so when i see nano's that are blooming i enjoy those more. also i am a fundi for the science behind the scenes and love seeing the unusual filters, lights etc that people have.

tell me what you think

NSW Collection Points

Posted: February 20th, 2010, 8:22am CST by FransSny

Can anyone help with a water collection point in CPT ? My problem is I need a spot where I can get close enough to use a recirculating pump (Waterblaster HY 7000, only 3,7 mtr max head). The 500 L jo jo also ads about 1 mtr of hight on the back of the bakkie

Bangai Surprise!

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 10:14pm CST by JD167

I was working on the tank this evening when out of the corner of my eye I spot this!

I placed him in a breeding net in my sump for the time being.

My Bangai male was carrying eggs about a month ago but I never saw any spawn. Now to my surprise I see this little bugger, and in my sump of all places. Looks like he took a ride down the overflow and survived.

I can't tell how old he is though. Seems to be a couple of days at least. Maybe more than a week I would say.

I'm busy preparing some brine shrimp, but what can I feed him until they are ready??

securing of giant Rhodactis

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 9:29pm CST by b-rad

I have a rhodactis which keeps getting blown around the tank and no matter where I put it, it gets blown around, how can i secure it to a rock without damaging it? Thanks

Urgent help needed My anemone is turning white

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 9:19pm CST by Googliebear

Hi,

I noticed today that my nemmie is turning white,

He was attached to the LR and when I fed him 2 days ago he started moving about, he was upside down on LR the night when i switched the lights off...The next morning he was lying "face-down!" all shriveled...and has been roaming ever since and has started to lose color? Only the tips seem to have color now.

Do I need to be worried, can it be the food (using - Reef Snow from Brightwell aquatics) ? Any advice will be appreciated...

120lt boyu tank (nano): cape town, Brackenfell

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 4:17pm CST by clown

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

120lt boyu tank (nano)

Location:

cape town, Brackenfell

Shipping or Collection only:

collect and courier

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi,

Im selling my buyo tank witha all pumps ,skimmer,wave maker,heater,overflow,cabinet.
Im keeping the Live rock and fish and DSB.

I would like R2500. for it.

Urgent sale - want to by a bigger system from some one els. dont want to miss the offer.

Help.:razz:

Clown

Notes:

-

Huge fish shipment at Idol

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 3:14pm CST by Bob the (reef)builder

Lots of small Regals at last.

Wrasses for Africa.

With our prvoius shipment, there is lots to choose from.

Lots of unusual fish.

Crazy scribbled file fish.:P Very pretty.

Come and visit us.

Cheers

Rob and the Idol crew.:)

What's with my cycling params ?

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 12:59pm CST by neo

Ok, so I don't know much about water params during cycling so pls tell me if this is OK.
My tank's been cycling for 3wks now, I have tested 3 times so far and:
No amonia,
nitrite only on 3d testing (week 3, last night) very low,
nitrates from the beginning and this spiked in week 3 (last night) jumped from about 2 to 8.
ph at 8.3
sg at 1.025
temp running at 25 - 26.5
alk sitting at 3 but i don't know the units - seachem test kit.

DSB was seeded after 2 days, LR added after 5 days (only 4kg but a lot of live on it), dead prawn added at 8 days, and some more DSB seeding at 2.5 weeks from other source than first time seeding.

DSB has lot of pimples on surface and starting to see some 'root' things going down the glass, saw a few 'pockets' forming low down in the sand against the glass last night.

Amphepod (i think - looks like fleas) numbers on LR has grown
and some of them running around on the base rock.

Diatoms on sand and in corners of DT and sump tanks.
some very light green colouring on base rock, nothing on LR.

Have a small, about 5mm, snail like think crawling on the glass and sand,
have something hiding behind the rocks, only pokes around the rock when it's dark and hides away when I shine a torch on it, very difficult to see, tooks like a bundle of brown cat hair.

Does this sound ok?

Fine white substrate?

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 10:13am CST by Surgeon

Hi Guys!

It's been awhile...

Please tell me what is currently the finest and whitest substrate out there and where I can get it from?

Thanks :thumbup:

Eggcrate in CPT Northern Suburbs

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 9:07am CST by FransSny

Where can I get this please, been foning around to no avail

What do you like about Marine's

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 8:42am CST by neo

Hi,
just to get a nice, 'lighter', start to the weekend.
What do you like about this hobby?

I like the diversity of it, i.e. the different types of animals, as well as the technical stuff behind it all.

Exploration Geologist Needed

Posted: February 19th, 2010, 8:11am CST by FransSny

Any one do this for a living ? A client of my wife is looking for one

My new tank!

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 6:48am CST by cptmayhem

Well, here it is... it's a 4 footer (1.2m) with a vol of 240 litres, and it's a great improvement on my original 120l system.

Inhabitants are:

2 clowns
1 bicolor angel
1 bicolor blenny
8 hermit crabs (2 red, 6 blue)

quite a bit of rock, mostly unseeded stuff from the beach. I'm slowly adding more LR as i can, and plan on adding a few more fishies quite soon.

Latest acquisition - a small pincusion leather (not pictured here) and another piece of LR on the left hand side behind the polyps. Parameters are good, just need to get some food for the polyps, and I'm "A for away"

as an aside - it took 30 minutes for the leather to stop sulking...

Offer - Cheato

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 6:46am CST by Sentari

Hi All

My cheato seems to be growing out of control. If anyone wants cheato for free let me know. I stay in Johannesburg - West Rand (Weltevreden Park)

Let me know if you interested.

West Coast/CT Reef Club

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 11:06pm CST by keyaam

Hey Guys

I know there is a Cape Town Reef club but when is the MASA CT reefclub starting? Now that Fransny is in CT im sure there will be one soon. Im sure lotsa guys are keen

Attemping to upload images of my tank

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 10:21pm CST by squire

Hi guys,

Quick question, how do i go about uploading pictures of my tank? I've just taken a few.

Urgent help needed Copper in water

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 9:00pm CST by racerchic

Hi

Notices 2 of my clowns looking a bit sick in my Nano. One not eating. I tested the water all was ok except I had a copper reading of 0.3. How can I get this back to zero. The LFS sold me a bag of something to put in the filter. Is there no chemical I can add. I only use water from the LFS so I can only think their RO system is not working.

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/18/Hi__'

Hi!!

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 8:09pm CST by Santa Flys

Hi this is Santa Flys

I had a Marine Tank a few years ago and decided to start again :thumbup:

Do my fish have itch?

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 6:21pm CST by vatso

The first little guy I put in look at how fat he is :)

My Clowns got these little white spots!!!

as you can see they fat & are eating well

Looking for 150watt SE MH 14 000K Bulbs

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 6:15pm CST by Slagter

Hey sponsors...

I know this is a long shot, but I am looking for 14 000K Single ended 150watt Metal Halide bulbs. I currently have 2, but they are 6500K bulbs. They are brand new bulbs, but I don't want that yellow look in the tank.

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

Thanks

Sean

My 6ft reef tank-4 Months Old

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 5:56pm CST by b-rad

Hi Guys new to this site have some pics of my tank which is four months old

Maculosus X Koran Angel (hybrid)

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 4:54pm CST by lanzo

Would like to Share this fish with all on Masa

i know Yuri might like it butt im totally struckout...i just love any Angel Hybrid...love the way the two Genus blends in to form one.

I got this picture from my supplier that they caught last week...been sold of to china

Here is how it looks: Maculosu x Koran...family Pomacanthus

For bored people.....

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 4:35pm CST by poiromaniax

INTERNATIONAL SUBMARINE RACING CHAMPIONSHIPS, NOVEMBER 2008

Sheldon

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 4:18pm CST by Sheldon

Hi Guys, this is my latest venture, so far so good. Please feel free to add any thing you feel I have missed.

Tank size 1500mm x 610 w x 620 h. Jewel Marine with filltration unit in the tank.
1 x 2000lph cannister
1 x 1400lph cannister
Reef Octopus hang on skimmer
15000 Resun wave maker
1 hp Hailea chiller
4 x white T5's
2 x blue T5's
50 kgs Kenyan LR

The Rancher

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 4:04pm CST by Tobes

The Rancher

A successful rancher died and left everything to his devoted wife. She was a very good-looking woman and determined to keep the ranch, but knew very little about ranching, so she decided to place an ad in the newspaper for a ranch hand.

Two cowboys applied for the job. One was gay and the other a drunk.

She thought long and hard about it, and when no one else applied she decided to hire the gay guy, figuring it would be safer to have him around the house than the drunk.

He proved to be a hard worker who put in long hours every day and knew a lot about ranching.

For weeks, the two of them worked, and the ranch was doing very well. Then one day, the rancher's widow said to the hired hand, 'You have done a really good job, and the ranch looks great. You should go into town and kick up your heels.' The hired hand readily agreed and went into town one Saturday night.

One o'clock came, however, and he didn't return. Two o'clock and no hired hand. Finally he returned around two-thirty, and upon entering the room, he found the rancher's widow sitting by the fireplace with a glass of wine, waiting for him. She quietly called him over to her.

'Unbutton my blouse and take it off, she said. Trembling, he did as she directed. 'Now take off my boots.' He did as she asked, ever so slowly.

'Now take off my socks.' He removed each gently and placed them neatly by her boots.

'Now take off my skirt.' He slowly unbuttoned it, constantly watching her eyes in the fire light.

'Now take off my bra.' Again, with trembling hands, he did as he was told and dropped it to the floor.

Then she looked at him and said, 'If you ever wear my clothes into town again, you're fired.'

(P.S. Yeh, I didn't see that one coming, either.)

Cool country this!

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 3:51pm CST by Tobes

Let me see if I understand all this...

IF YOU CROSS THE NORTH KOREAN BORDER ILLEGALLY YOU GET 12 YEARS HARD LABOR.

IF YOU CROSS THE IRANIAN BORDER ILLEGALLY YOU ARE DETAINED INDEFINITELY.

IF YOU CROSS THE AFGHAN BORDER ILLEGALLY,YOU GET SHOT.

IF YOU CROSS THE SAUDI ARABIAN BORDER ILLEGALLY YOU WILL BE JAILED.

IF YOU CROSS THE CHINESE BORDER ILLEGALLY YOU MAY NEVER BE HEARD FROM AGAIN.

IF YOU CROSS THE VENEZUELAN BORDER ILLEGALLY YOU WILL BE BRANDED A SPY AND YOUR FATE WILL BE SEALED.

IF YOU CROSS THE CUBAN BORDER ILLEGALLY YOU WILL BE THROWN INTO POLITICAL PRISON TO ROT.

IF YOU CROSS THE SOUTH AFRICAN BORDER ILLEGALLY YOU GET A JOB, A DRIVERS LICENSE, PENSION CARD, WELFARE, CREDIT CARDS, SUBSIDIZED RENT OR A LOAN TO BUY A HOUSE, FREE EDUCATION AND FREE HEALTH CARE. PERKS INCLUDE WEAPONS OF YOUR CHOICE. AND IN SOUTH AFRICA YOU CAN MURDER,USE DRUGS,DRINK AND DRIVE,STEAL,RAPE
BUT PLEASE SOUTH AFRICANS DONT SMOKE IN PUBLIC IT IS ILLEGAL.

When graphic designers get bored:

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 3:34pm CST by poiromaniax

groetnes

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 3:19pm CST by jacquesth

Hi almal,ek is nuut in die hele storie en nog afrikaans ook,sal regkom met dit:wave2:

Tank, Sump, Lights, Stand, corals, pumps for sale: east london

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 1:32pm CST by Slummies

Hardware for saleThread title:

Tank, Sump, Lights, Stand, corals, pumps

Location:

east london

Shipping or Collection only:

both

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hey guys.

Got my tanks up for sale.

awesome 90 x 45 x 50h tank. on a stand with sump.

lights are 4x t5 DIY. with new bulbs.

Return pump, and two other flow pumps (1x 1000lhr and 1 x 3000lr/h)

Corals:

Lots of each: Candy canes, Hammer, Zoas, Xenia, mushroom, Monti (digi and plating)

ALL FOR R3000!

Pretty much a plug in and play system all u will need is a skimmer and rock. i do have rock though if you want.

Notes:

-

wanted : green slime'er

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 12:32pm CST by sweetnsour

sup fellow reefers

im looking for a green slimer, if anyone has either frags of even a decent size that they would like to sell

please keep me in mind

thanks Wade

Live Rock

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 10:23am CST by iggy

Hy Peeps

so my live rock have been curing now for almost a month..

but i read now that i must not put any substrate in my tank wile curing the rock.
but i have substrate in my thank this a problem or will this help the curing process?

and there are critters growing in one of the rocks. are these critters bad or are they good?

if they are bad how do i get rid of them?.

proposed lighting for softies and LPS tank

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 9:49am CST by ziyaadb

Tank is 130*70W*55H water level at 50.

I intend to only have Softies and a few LPS. I intend to use
2*150W MH with 20K blv globes
2*12000K 39W
2*actinic 39W

Would this be a enough for softies?
I like the blue.

Tropical fish in 19 degrees Water?

Posted: February 18th, 2010, 8:01am CST by luwaynecrous

Please help me understand. As far as I know , marine fish are not very tolerand to variable water conditions, but why do they survive here in the PE region for this period, even in poluted swartkops, are these fish very hardy species?

Zuma continued )

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 7:51am CST by leslie hempel

AND THEY JUST KEEP ON COMING....

Malema and Zuma go into a local diner for lunch.

As they read the menu, the waitress comes over and asks
Zuma, "Are you ready to order?" Zuma replies, "Yes, I'd
like a quickie!"

"A quickie?!?" the waitress replies. "Sir, given the past
situation of your personal life I don't think that is a good
idea. I'll come back when you are ready to order from the
menu!" She walks away.

Malema leans over to Zuma and says, "It's pronounced Quiche

Looking for "Thin" Coast2Coast pictures/comments

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 5:34am CST by Elrond

Hello All,

A few years ago I had a relatively nice system with a corner overflow and durso. I found the setup (overflow chamber) very effective but somewhat unsightly in the corner of the tank. I'm thinking of starting a new system soonish and I see some of the newer designs consist of very narrow chambers at the back-middle of tanks which look to be only 2cms deep (at most) and runs the full top to height of the tank. I find these look exceptionally neat. The plumbing then appears to hang off the rear but goes straight into a 90 degree elbow downwards.

Question is: Does this design work? What is the noise like in these systems for 'gurgling/toilet flushing' etc?

Any pictures of similar setups (that work well) would be appreciated.

-E

A proper intro

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 8:02pm CST by squire

Hi guys, I should have done a better intro earlier, but i guess better late than never.... so here goes ....

Helloooooooooooooooooooooo everyone.

I am in Mpumalanga, in a little town called Burgersfort, which literally is in the middle of nowhere.

I'm new to this hobby, although been wanting to get into it for years. Being uncertain as to what to do, I had someone build me my first tank, dimensions 1.8m x 800mm x 650 mm. I am not sure about the rest of the specs (still waiting for the invoice), but I do know that I have a 1000L/h chiller, and a skimmer, not sure which make, something pro. As for lighting, i think (not sure through) I am running 3 x 150 MH, 4 white T5's and 4 blue T5's. The lights are on a timer, goes on and off at different times of the day.

I know it sounds lame not to know the specs of your own tank, the only excuse I can make is that of an innocent mistake on my side of not knowing better, but at least I hope I am learning each day.

I have between 60kg and 75kg of live rock, coupled with 2 xenias, a handful of small mushrooms and a brown finger leather.

The lifestock that I have currently are, 1 x yellow tang, 1 x regal tang, 1 x banana wrasse, 1 x cleaner wrasse, 1 x eibli, 2 x clowns, 1 x yellow fin black coral beauty, 1 x rock beauty, 5 x chromis, 1 x strawberry gramma, 2 x blue starfish, 1 x coral bandit, 1 x camel shrimp and 2 x cleaner shrimps.

I will be posting photos in the next couple of days, if anyone is interested, but right now the tank doesn't look too hot, I am struggling to contain and get rid off green hair algae.

Anyways, just wanted to intro myself, and I hope to get to know some of you a lot better going forward.

Cheers ....

[FS] 5ft Tank for Sale

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 7:48pm CST by vzyla

Hi

I am selling my whole setup which consist of the following items:
1.5x0.45x0.45m Tank in wooden Cabinet plus 2 sumps, one standard and one 4ft
6x 54watt T5 lights in canopy
2x 620 Seio Power heads, 1x 300watt heater, 1x return pump.
1x TS2 Skimmer, 1x Phosban reactor
Livestock inside:
Plus minus 30kg live rock, 20 kg Bio rock
Cleaner shrimp, Fire Srimp, 2 turbo Snails, Urchen, Nenny, Sun Coral and some other Coral.
The setup is quite new.

No Items will be sold seperately

Pets or Fish????

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 7:05pm CST by vatso

My Fish are in my face every time I look at the tank or in fact when I get near the tank they get all excited!!! they like that little Oliver Twist wanting more & more food!!

am I the only one that has crazy fish???

March Pta Meeting

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 5:52pm CST by lanzo

Hi Guys

Its that time again

Lets get a date for the meeting:

Date: --03-2010

Afternoon:

6 Sat
7 Sun

13 Sat
14 Sun

20 Sat
21 Sun

27 Sat
28 Sun

Lets Get a topic for this reef meeting:

Fish-----what sp of fish-----fish in general-----Disease----ect
Coral----what sp of coral----corals in general-----Disease----ect
Invert
Filters
Light
ect ect

Lets get the ball rolling

ill get new caps printed for the members that didnt get at the previous meetings

And then location....:)

ID trigger

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 5:48pm CST by Singularity

the trigger in the center, eating.

Fish and inverts 2010-02-18

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 4:58pm CST by Moolis

Hi reefers

tomorrow we are expecting a shipment of 160+ specimens:yeahdude:, this is what to expect in this shipment to arrive:
Angel - Pygoplites diacanthus - Regal angel (Yellow):yeahdude::slayer:
Fish - Odonus nigerRed-tooth niger trigger fish
Goby - Valenciennea puellaris - Diamond goby
Goby - Amblygobius maculata - Dragon goby
Goby - Mirolabrichthys evansi
Goby - Gobiodon citrinus - Lemon goby
Goby - Amblyeleotris diagonalis - Leopard goby
Goby - Istiblennius Chrysospilos - Orange spotted blenny
Goby - Valenciennea strigata - Radian goby
Goby - Valenciennea longippinis - Viva goby
Goldie - Anthias squamipinns / female - Blue eye lyretail
Goldie - Nemanthias carberryi
Goldie - Mirolabrichthys dispar
Goldie - Anthias squamipinns / male - Red coral lyretail
Goldie - Anthias kashiwae / female - Red perch / female
Shrimp - Lysmata amboinensis - Cleaner shrimps
Shrimp - Lysmata amboinensis - Cleaner shrimps (m)
Shrimp - Alpheus sp. - Red clawed goby shrimp
Shrimp - Lysmata debelius - Red fire shrimp
Star - Fromia elegans - Pink starfish
Star - Fromia elegans - Red star fish
Tang - Acanthurus nigricauda - Black tang
Tang - Acanthurus pyroferus - Eibli mimic
Tang - Naso lituratus / medium - Lippstick tang
Tang - Naso Lopezi - Lope'z unicornfish
Tang - Acanthurus leucosternon (M) - Powder Blue Tang
Tang - Ctenochaetus strigosus - Yellow eyes tang

Don't miss out;)

New member

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 4:34pm CST by nickv1

Just joined MASA this month...started out again on a nano Boyu TL550. Battling the hair algae then will post some pics.

Previous setup was 1500 liter reef then it "bursted". Needed to give the wife some time after this...

Now started with a nano to see how it goes...

Stock:
1 Bi Color Blenny
1 Bi Color Angel
1 Bristle tooth tang (small)
2 hermits
1 sea star (sand sifter)
1 bristle star
1 boxing shrimp
1 cleaner shrimp
4 turbo snails

Corals:
1 Toadstool
1 Plate coral
1 Green Star Polyps
1 Red and Blue Mushrooms

Live Rock:
Kenyan about 13kg

Thank you

Surfing the Big one

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 2:43pm CST by sean_koekemoer

Just saw this on the web- and no Lesley, I am not taking up surfing:lol:, was looking for surfboards for my kids;)

Australia is synonymous with surf and beach culture. In 2007 we could finally be proud of our surfing prowess once again when Mick Fanning won his first world title. But three years ago, it was right here in our very own surfing Mecca, otherwise known as the Goldie, that shaper Nev Hyman broke two world records simultaneously: the worlds largest surfboard and the most people ever to successfully ride a board to shore. The board in question doesnt really resemble a surfboard so much as a small yacht. Its 40ft long, nine feet wide and was ridden by 47 surfers at Snapper Rocks in March 2005.
This proud Aussie product is now on a major fundraising tour of the US to mount another wave-riding world record attempt in Huntington Beach. After which owner Nev Hyman is hoping to give the surfboard one more seriously big ride by towing it into a real wave with a handful of guys properly surfing it. Then the board will be homeward bound and if Hyman has his way will become a gigantic advertisement for a new surf museum at Burleigh Heads, expected to open in mid-2008.
Where // From mid-2008 you can see the surfing behemoth at a new surf museum in Burleigh Heads.

Did you know? // The previous world record for the most people riding a single surfboard looks rather pathetic in comparison and was set in rainy Cornwall, England, when a total of 14 surfers rode a narrow paddle board to shore. Wow. But, then again, not everyones got 300 litres of resin and about $50,000 at their disposal.

Next Meetup

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 2:37pm CST by dallasg

Hi All,

Details are here
Gauteng reefers Meeting - Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Evaparation

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 1:39pm CST by nick_fraser

Hi All

Not sure if I should be concerned or if other reefers have the results.
I seem to be losing between 40 and 50l of water a week. Thats about 6% To 8% of my total volume.
I dont have a cover over my tank and my sump is also open and lives in the garage. I have checked for leaks but cant find any. My water temp is at 26 so in my I shouldnt be losing that amount of water. I dont have any Fans and there is no draft near my tank.
My Biggest issue is not the fact that I am losing the water it is that I am still using tap water until I can get my RO Unit most likely next month and am worried about the amount of K*** I am adding to my tank.

Who else has this type of evaporation or should I keep looking for a leak?

Vatso - New Tank

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 1:12pm CST by vatso

Hi all

I have not said anything about a new tank I have been wanting!!

I have had a look at a few tanks & have now decided to go a little bigger.

as you know I have been in contact with Idol Marine lots, Rob had a tank we spoke about & today I have decided 100% to buy it! we are just working the details out on how to change the tank slightly. I don't like posting before paying but that I will take care of the end of the month!!

it's a 1.1m X 1.1m x 700 high Cube the sump as the top 1M x 1M Cube in total there will be about 900Ltrs or so of water!!!!

I am really looking forward to this new tank, I am going to take my time in getting it up & running will buy bits when I can afford them - I am thinking I will be and & running in about 4 months or so!

I am going to use a 400W MH light on the main display & then use my T5's for the sump & more color if needed.

Going to have a huge DSB - will be nearly the same size as the display tank.

Now the fun of deciding how to scape starts :)

Mark

Gauteng reefers Meeting

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 12:11pm CST by mnd123

Hi all,

I am planning to host a meeting at my home for Gauteng Reefers (and any that are in the area) on Sunday March 7th, 11AM to 1PM.

I live in Fourways Gardens, and I will provide some boerie rolls and cool drinks, and a hot braai to cook your bits and bobs on, you will need to bring yer own booze!

Frag swapping, selling and general coral mayhem is very much encouraged!

Come one come all, please let me know whether you will be able to make it in this thread or via PM, and I will PM directions and details.

Thanks

Marc

Aquamedic Kalkwasser/ calcium reactor 1000 help

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 11:52am CST by sweetnsour

Hi guys

ok i need some help on the subject, i bought a aquamedic kalkwasser 1000 reactor and i believe it can be converted to a calcuim reactor.

now ive done the whole kalk thing and i dont feel its enough for my system thus me wanting to change it to a calcium reactor (plus thw whole Ca and Alk thing is just hectic.

now what will i need to to the conversion? any and all comments appreciated.

i can get a co2 bottle and regulator, what is needed and what goes where?

i have been to the aquamedic site and have the documentation, but im still totally confused

Various fish for sale: Cape Town

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 11:43am CST by Jimbo

Fish for saleCommon Name:

Various fish

Scientific Name:

-

Size of fish

Small

How long have you had the fish?

2 months

Is the fish eating?

Yes

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Your location.

Cape Town

Price:

135

Photo's:

Notes:

Hi Guys,

I have some fish to sell:

Regal Tang- R200
Semi angel- R180
2 Boxing shrimp- R75 each
Clown surgeon- R125
Racoon butterfly- R120
Domino damsel- R40
Leaf wrasse- R95
Blue lip angel- R185

All the fish are healthy and eating.

Regards,

Jimbo.

overflow plumbing need advise.

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 11:30am CST by Phyrannus

I'm going 120g from my standard 75g DT. i'm a bit concern with my overflow plumbing design, i need advise from our DIY gurus here.

Tank size : 48"x30"x24" 10mm thk GLASS drilled with 2-50mm dia overflow hole at the back (Rimless if possible with 10mm thk.)

Front View

Back view

50mm Overflow and 12mm return pipe

Durso style plumbing design..

Plumbing underneath to follow as plan progress..

All comments will be appreciated..

Thank you in advance.

My oceanic 100 Gallon Corner Pentagon

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 11:18am CST by mrogers1970

Hope I am doing O.K.

This is my first try at a reef tank. It has been up and running for about 6 months.

2 False Percula clowns
1 Brittle star
3 peppermint shrimp
20 snails
20 asst. hermits
?? pistol shrimp (i hear a clicking now and then)

Hope to move on to some corals
a manderin and some other really cool looking reef life.

I cycled the tank with
50 lbs live sand
50 lbs live rock

I have a wet dry filter, a protein skimmer, three power heads, a cannister filter.

I have one 250W DE metal halide 20k, one 250W SE metal halide 10K, one 70w metal halide 10K and four 65W compact flourescent actinic lights.

Right now I am getting some great growth on my live rock, I can see some great corraline algae, lots of fan worms, a lot of copepods, gastropods and tons of stuff that I can only see with a microscope ocular.

My question is when should I move on to buying some frags and what should I start with?

Also, I would like to get an anemone for my clowns. They are a mating pair and I would like to give them a plce to make a home for their babies. What type should I get and when?

Also in these pictures I have some things I don't know what they are can you help?

Thanks,
A super newbie. Dedicated though. I spend hours with my magnifier checking out the new life.
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Pet Stop's Email list

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 10:50am CST by Moolis

Hi all subscribers

Check your emails on the 20th for a great special on more Red Sea products & JUWEL aquariums!!

If you are not a subscriber to "Pet Stop's email list" and want to subscribe - SEND A EMAIL TO subscribe@petstopsa.com - text - "subscribe marines" NOW!!

Help

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 10:26am CST by davidfr7

I got a stag horn and on 2 of its horns it has this red fluffy stuff growing on the tips +-1cm. I took a tooth brush and brushed the stuff off but 2 to 3 days later its back, its like cutting my lawn. Do I cut those tips off ? I do have other SPS but they don't have that problem

Can anyone help ?

Order of Introduction

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 9:35am CST by Pads

Hey Guys, I'm looking to start stocking my tank and there is a vast range of fish.
I've got my own summation as to which fish to add at what times but I'd like to bounce it off ya.

Currently in DT
1. Picasso Trigger
2. Ocellaris Clown (2x)
3. Cleaner Wrasse

Wish List (in order to be added according to me)
4. Blue/Green Chromis (6x small)
5. Copperband Butterfly
6. Goldie (2x)
7. Naso Tang (small)
8. Regal or Yellow Tang (small)
9. Green Mandarin

I gotta make sure the shy fish aren't stressed too much when introduced. What you guys reckon???

Stony Corals Trade ban alert

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 9:03am CST by dallasg

Well looks like the industry will be in turmoil if this goes thru
U.S. Considers Endangered Species Protection for 82 Stony Coral Species | Coral Magazine

Chromis Aggressive Towards Clowns?

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 8:48am CST by KevinR

Has anybody had any problems with green chromis being aggressive to percula clowns? I have had the chromis in my tank for about 10 months now and about a month ago I put a frogspawn coral in the tank. One or two of the chromis really took to the coral and are always hovering around it. Yesterday I put in 2 small clowns. Much smaller than the chromis. And they too went for the frogspawn. The chromis did not seem to like this and chased them around a bit. Is this something to worry about? Has anybody had any similar experiences with chromis being aggressive?

New Frag tank

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 8:31am CST by Lockes

I am starting a frag tank and looking for some advice

It will be 1250 long X 650 wide X 180 High

I have 2 X 150W MH's that I want to use - How do you suggest I hang these?

my thought was to hang them sideways (not length ways) as I want to maximise the light on the full tank if you know what i mean

So it would be 35cm - MH(20cm wide) - 20cm - MH(20cm wide) - 35cm

Is that a good spread?

Snorkeling / Diving in Richards Bay

Posted: February 17th, 2010, 8:28am CST by sean_koekemoer

Magman convinced me yesterday to take a dive with him in our Harbor area (not the cleanest of water). I must say that it was the first in a long time as well as the first time I saw the water very clean. Visibility was about 5meters.
I really enjoyed it as I have not dived for more than 02 years (I think).

The species of fish we saw, was just amazing. Saw a semi the size of my foot...lol. Still beautiful with all the colors at the right places. Seems that all the nice fish we saw, was all record sizes. Pencil Surgeons around 300mm long and Cigar Wrasses- schools of them- never saw more than one at a time prior to this.

Saw beautiful Banner fish, chased a huge Bat fish, tried to get close to a Moorish Idol, saw most of the Chaetodon species, and quite a few beautiful Tang species.

I also saw a very nice Squirrel fish......mmmmmm, I want:P

Thanks Magman, I really enjoyed it, pity it is raining today as I was really looking forward to another dive.:thumbup:

Oh, and that Lionfish was just a stunner of note.

Next time I'll come with descent clothes and won't jump into the water with my work clothes....:lol:

New member

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 6:11am CST by Wrassa

Morning every body,i'm a new member to this forum,i use to breed freshwater angels but lost intrest,i got a 250 L hex tank that i want to change to marine and please gays i need help to change my tank

Which Wave Maker?

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 9:47pm CST by Manic

Hey everyone,

So I know they aren't technically wave makers but they seem to be classed that. Anyway which ones would you recommend for my new tank:

1X Boyu WM-3 Wave Maker

or

2 X Resun Waver-15000

The tank is a 900mm x 900mm x 600mm (High) rimless cube.
I'm looking at keeping mainly sps. in the long run. What other choices do I have?
Needs to be in the price range of the above.

Shark Attack - Yellow Sands

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 8:52pm CST by Slummies

http://www.zigzag.co.za/wp/wp-conten...2/shark111.jpg

19-year-old Yellowsands local, Michal du Plessis is lucky to be alive after he was attacked by a four metre Great White shark at Yellowsands point earlier today. Michal was enjoying clean 3-4 foot solid waves with four of his close mates when, at approxomatly 1pm, the shark struck him from underneath Another surfer, Rodger Berkhout, who has 10 feet away when the attack happened said that, "Michal was paddling back from a smoker of a wave when the shark came out of nowhere and just mauled him. "

The shark then let go and Michal was able to catch a wave in. His friends were able to carry him off the rocks and into their car. He was rushed to a local doctor who called an ambulance. Michal is currenlty in a stable condition in St. Domincs Hospital where he is undergoing surgery.

Steve's Custom All-In-One

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 5:36pm CST by Fishy Steve

I am currently getting a new tank built. Here is a rough paint drawing of it.
More info later. I wanna go home and:1:
If anything looks like it might cause problems let me know. Thanks.

Conspiwhat?

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 5:07pm CST by conspicillum

Hi all, I am new to MASA but by no means new to reefkeeping. I have been following a few intresting threads so I decided I might as well register. Before you ask for pics, my camera is broken:) Truth be told, Im currently tankless... The plan is to change that soon though.

Look forward to getting to know all of you:1:

My star fish

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 3:34pm CST by sacha

hi there to all. This site looks great and im hoping to learn alot about my marine tank. to anyone who knows starfish. we are new to the marine aquarium. we acquired one and would like to know what star fish we have. Also what it eats.

Zuma the Hutt

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 2:52pm CST by superscenic

Look at my rendition of our local pimp daddy:

1.5m tank for sale for sale: Randburg

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 2:28pm CST by Slagter

Hardware for saleThread title:

1.5m tank for sale

Location:

Randburg

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection ONLY

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hey guys...

I have a 1500mm x 700mm x 510mm tall tank on a metal stand and has a custom built canopy with enough room to fit MH lights. Tank is fully braced and holds 535 liters. It really is a great tank. I need to sell it to make space in the fish room. It does not leak, it's full at the moment.

R2000

I also have a 1200 x 450 x 800 tall tank in a black cabinet with hood for

R1800

Let me know.

Kind regards

Sean

Notes:

-

World Wide shame in COSTA RICA

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 1:37pm CST by vatso

World Wide shame in COSTA RICA

Can someone ID this Fish please..

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 12:36pm CST by AmandaRisi

Hi everyone..

A friend of mine Heidi photographed this fish while snorkelling at Sheffield Beach, near Durban on the weekend.. We'd love to help her ID it! Any ideas?

Thanks,
Amanda

dead fish

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 12:05pm CST by samdj

I have been running a Reef tank for 4 years now and never experienced any major loss of fish stock.
In January, I suddenly lost about 12 of the 16 fishes in the tank within a 3 day period.
I had installed fly repellant sprays in November the previous year, but nowhere close to the tanks. Is it possible that the majority of the fish died in such a short time span after 3 months because of the fly repellant? I also run a predator tank, which was unaffected.
Please can someone help shed some light as to possible causes.

boyu dg1516 skimmer

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 11:34am CST by vleis

I need your expert advice. A certain guy gave me a quote to build my first marine tank. The tank will be 1.5x.5x.5
He sugest that the skimmer I must use should be a Boyu DG1516.

Your thoughts please. Is this a good skimmer?? The price is fantastic!! R700.00

Sheldon

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 11:21am CST by Sheldon

Hi Guys,

I have wanted to set up a sytem that is easy to maintain so that my better half can do it while I'm away. (work overseas). After consulting and reading we bought a Jebo 800l tank from a pet shop in Pietermaritzburg for R12000.00 cash. The tank was delivered and all of us were excited. We built/assembled the stand and levelled it, then my wife and I with great effort and strength lifted the tank on. The problems then began. We could not get the tank level, we knew the stand was level so all kinds of theories we added. Perhaps the wieght of the tank was moving the stand etc etc. We forgot the time and now at 1Am after lifting the tank on and off the stand 4 or 5 times, temper tantrums by me and lots of coffee and camels, making up new and stonger shimms for the stand legs, we saw a slight flaw in the bottom brace of the tank.

We turned the tank onto its side and total horror, disgust and immence rage took over. My initial reaction was to fetch the 4 pound hammer from the tool room. We had just discovered that the bottom/base glass had been replaced and that the plastic bracing had been stuck/glued together.:nono:. We had been sold a second hand tank at a new tank price. My pride and joy show piece was now a thing of the past. Totally disgusted and PI... OFF we tried to get some sleep.

I spoke to the LPS and sent him pics of the repair job, he then come back to me a day later and said that Marltons were going to supply me with a new tank, stand and canopy but they could only supply the new one ine 3 months time. So the LPS said i could set the defective tank up in another area and get the system going sothat the filltration ext is good and established. When the new tank arrives we could transfer everything across and that Marltons would give us 2 weeks to do the transfer. We then did this and after levelling our tank as best as possible we started to fill with RO water. The next supprise happened, the tank had 7 pin sized chips. All stop and call the LPS. His advice, ' carry on' filling. We the added the live aragonite, salt extra. The LPS supplied me withn the following, 2 cannister fillters, 2500lph and 2000lph, Resun 15000 wave maker, 9 watt UV lamp and ViaAqua SK388NW in sump skimmer. Before the tank was delivered I had asked for the specs of the stand sothat I cold make a sump, the specs were wrong and I had to make another sump, wasted R400.00 on glass.

The LPS and I had discussed this set up sothat my marine tank wold be a sucsess and after me not feeling happy with all the proceeding I made futher inquiries. This led me to Chris at Northlands Pets in Durban, this guy knows the game. The Jebo tank would have worked for a year then the corals extra would start dying off because of no dedicated sump or marine filtration. We tried to gravity feed the sump but with Eskom's reliability we flooded the dinning room three times which made my wife very happy because I was away and she had to do the cleaning up. So we purchased a UPS (R2020.00 )to run the Resun 35 watt return pump, the pump ran dry because suction was lost and the pump burnt out. We were in Northlands Pets and Spoke to Wayne From Marltons, he informed me that they were only suppling a new tank and no stand. How would we transfer our entire Marine system to the new tank with no stand. Well, I don't know how I never burst a blood vessel, the whole experiance left me cold. We scrapped the marine tank. We are not sure who's offer it was but I wanted my cash back and the LPS said no way but will give us a credit for the tank price, I made and offer of R4000.00 and finally setteled at getting to keep the second hand tank with a R2500.00 credit. We now have Discus in the tank.

We never gave up on the Marine tank and now have a Jewej 400l system supplied and inslalled by Northlands Pets. I would like to express that I have submitted this to make members and prospective REEFERS aware of the money that can be wasted, not to mention the heart ache. Planning is paramount together with patience.

What food variety to feed

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 10:56am CST by costa

Hi guys!

Could you give me some help as to the variety of food I can feed my Midas Blenny?

I have a 1.2m tank at the moment which contains 1 Midas Blenny, 1 boxing shrimp
& 4 algae snails.

The Midas is on a flake and pellet diet at the moment(Ocean Nutrition)

What else can I provide for the tank inhabitants?

Cheers,
Costa.

Nenni?

Posted: February 16th, 2010, 9:32am CST by gMAN

Morning all, got a great carpet nenni on the weekend but noticed after she settled in there was a baby nenni next to her. Is it advisable to have 2 of the same in one tank?

my ultimate fish wish list

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 9:58pm CST by crispin

im starting to plan my next load of imports and in this want to get a few new fish. as I am going direct to suppliers i have a good chance of getting what i want.

I am starting tom plan the list and gathering info on different fish and different groups of fish.

I'll put up an excell list i am working on and if anyone has specific suggestions or info on the fish in this list please feel free to comment.

NOTE i did basic research with livequariua and bluezoo and have attached a number of links to those fish so you can see which fish i am looking at.

cheato

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 9:43pm CST by regis

how often should i harvest my cheato. Cam you have to much in a sump.

Nano Advice .....

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 2:19pm CST by Neil H

On impulse i bought a nano yesterday..

Overall i am happy with its performance .....

I was able to set it up relatively easily, however i am really concerned with the leaks i am experiencing.... although i have been able to trace the source. they occur intermittently

Skimmate is impressive with an even more impressive smell...

here are some pics of the nano ... or pico i suppose !

:thumbup:

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Wanted - Wood Air Stone

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 1:48pm CST by vatso

Hi

who has a wood air stone for sale? I need one for when I make my new batch of water.

I am using the normal type air stone but it's just not as good it seems

Let me know please

thanks

Any idea what this is?

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 12:43pm CST by danimal

Hey guys

Did some re-scaping this weekend and discovered this on a rock that was previously covered. Any ideas? (an no, I'm not refereing to the little aptaisia :P)

Backup Air System

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 12:41pm CST by keyaam

Hey Guys

After last weeks power failure I decided to build a battery air system while im looking into getting a proper backup system. Its basically a battery air pump which comes on when the power trips. Here is a little drawing.

Basically the float switch sits in the sump and when the power trips the float switch will activate the air pump. Total Cost was about R130.

The Ultimate ZeoVit explanation by the ZeoVit pro's on www.zeovit.com

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 11:31am CST by dallasg

Excerpt:
Quote:

What Does ZeoVit Do?

Lets start off with what does the ZeoVit system do. Zeovit is a system that incorporates bacterial sources to help rid a system of excess nutrients. Some have labeled this as one of this first well publicized ultra low nutrient system or ULNS. The idea is to mimic natural seawater (NSW) parameters by reducing the levels of Nitrate and Phosphate without lowering other essential parameters such as Calcium and Magnesium.

The best way that I understand this is a two step process; 1) the system removes excess nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate through bacteria sources and skimming. 2) Once ULNS has been achieved, you may 'tweak' coral colors through additional Zeovit additives.

Well isnt that what you are suppose to accomplish in a reef system? Can I do that with a nice high-end skimmer and frequent water changes? Well yes, but there are some nice side benefits to the zeovit system that we will talk about later.

General information / explanation to the ZeoVit system - zeovit.com

Backup power?????

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 11:05am CST by KATHIE

I need a backup power for my tank. Not to expensive. Cause I almost lost all my malawis.

New Hobby, Novice...

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 10:34am CST by Munier

Hi guys,

I'm very new to the hobby of marine keeping, but been admiring it from a distance for a while, and then a REAL good deal came along, and it would have been stupid not to jump at.

So got a full set-up, tank, equipment, live rock & livestock.

Tank dimension are I think 1.2 by 800 high & 500 deep.

Livestock:
1 yellow tang
1 two-tone tang
1 brown surgeon
2 camel shrimp, (1 living in the overflow section)
1 percula

Will load some pics shortly.

Urgent help needed fish disappear

Posted: February 15th, 2010, 9:15am CST by Jakkie

I have a diamond sized tank that is 437l of water. I have every thing in that a good tank need. Dsb, skimmer, phosphate remover etc. Lanzo of Dory pets build the tank for me in Sep 09. I have plus minus 40kg live rock. My fishes disappear. Yes without me seeing the skelotons of remains or whatever. I have lost about 20 fishes over the past 3 months. My box fish was swimming very happy the night before I went to bed. The next morning gone!!! I have heard that a pistol shrimp is the culprit. Is this true or just a story to make me feel better. Please help. I don't know what to do anymore.

Jakkie:(

Whats This?

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 7:18am CST by Slims

can someone please id this. its appeared in my aquarium and seems to prefer being on the glass.

Durban - February 2010 Meeting

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 10:13pm CST by Andreas

Hi Guys,

Please join us for our first meeting of 2010 at UKN Dive Club on the Thursday the 25th, 18:30 for 19:00.

To any new members - Please fell to join us and get to meet other enthusiastic reefers in Durban.

Please make suggestions if there is anything that you would like us to discuss at the get together.

See you guys there:)

Bigger is better....

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 9:19pm CST by martinkeyser

hi everyone.
when the gogga bites, it bites hard. i decided to upgrade, ordered a bigger tank from Idol marines. 1.2m by 1.2m by 0.7m.
couldn`t resist going bigger. need some help though.
i built a bigger sump with a total sand bed area of 3600square cm. new sump water volume of just over 200L.
plan on using my existing skimmer, an orca100. think it will work?
advise will be apreciated.

off to mozambique any advice..

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 8:36pm CST by leslie hempel

hey guys we are taking a short diving trip to mozambique any advice of what you wouldve done differently or taken with next time/

im trying to be prepared..

Shot Les

Thoughts on boyu HQL-36 lights

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 7:37pm CST by vleis

A question from a novice: I am busy planning a new tank. 1.5 x .6 x .6 what are your thoughts on the Boyu HQL-36 for this tank

A friends tank

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 6:19pm CST by riyadhessa

This tank is 6.500x1.800x800

Brine shrimp hatchery!

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 6:08pm CST by Slagter

So, I went on to an international forum and they said they used this thing to hatch brine shrimp. Needs no power, no heater and no air pumps or movement at all.

This is what I got...

The instructions say to add 3 slightly heaped teaspoons of salt (aquarium not table salt) to 500ml of fresh water. Pour the water into the tray. Then place 1/4 teaspoon of the brine shrimp eggs into the tray spread evenly over the waters surface.... Check.

Put the lid on... You can also see the size of the whole thing. That round blue thing is a standard size of plumbers tape...

Waiting....

So, after about 24 hours I took the lid off to check...

You can see in the above pic, the small orange patch in the white circular thing in the center of the dish... That is live, freshly hatched brine shrimp! No power, no air and no heat!! There are thousands of them!

This thing is brilliant! I am going to be trying to find out how to get these into the country. I haven't seen them anywhere so far. Feeding brine shrimp is now the easiest thing on earth!! Brilliant!

Tropical fish in Port Elizabeth

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 5:52pm CST by luwaynecrous

Hey there, anybody from PE who can give me advise to when the tropical fish will be on our coast and where to go snorkel them.

Seriously macro

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 5:14pm CST by Reef Maniac

Check out this thread - you can't get more technical than this...

Hennie

Emperor Angelfish (Pomacanthus imperator) what to get, juvenile or adult?

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 12:19pm CST by knut-ove

I am working on my fish list for my 800L system, end i am getting a emperor angel.
But what to get, juvenile or adult, and why? What do you think?

Who is breeding what and where?

Posted: February 14th, 2010, 9:29am CST by Steve Warren

Hi Marcel and others, what all are you breeding or attempting to breed. Also in which areas are you.

Rogan is doing Banggai's and has attempted Tiger Tail seahorses and peppermint shrimps.
We are in PE.

meeting

Posted: February 13th, 2010, 7:50am CST by ed

There will be a reef meeting for all the reefers living in the central part of the country on the 21 Februarie at 15H00

Meeting will take place Hennies place

hope all will be able to come

greetings Ed

Randsom pics of my little success

Posted: February 13th, 2010, 12:32am CST by LuckyFish

Hi guys,

for a change just a few pics to enjoy.

[JB] [EDITED] Sorry mate - had some complaints about this last pic.....

What size skimmer?

Posted: February 13th, 2010, 12:54pm CST by johanpm

Hi guys,

Any suggestions on a skimmer for a 720l tank?

I was thinking along the lines of a TS3. Will this be any good?

New Shipment

Posted: February 13th, 2010, 8:18am CST by wild on pets

Hi

New Shipment from Singapore arrived yesterday.In this shipment there are SohalTang ,Powder Blue Tangs,YellowTangs,Blue Damsels,Four Stripe Damsels, Clams ,Nennies,Starfish and more.

Regards

Wild on Pets

Urgent help needed Tank cracked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!HELP

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 3:05am CST by dean

After I moved my tank to make way for my bigger tank, 4 hours later it cracked!!!!! Ive placed the fish into a bucket with a heater and powerhead aswel as the corals. Im going to go and fetch the larger tank today but i need to know whether i can house the fish in the new tank. I know it is supposed to cycle and that was the plan before the old tank cracked. I really need help on this one as i dont want to loose any of my lifestock. Ive saved about 85% of the established tanks water which adds up to +-170l. The new tank that im getting will be 324l. Not going to run the sump as it will make it another 150l. Please help:(:(:(

Can i fill the tank up which should be like doing a 50% water change or should i just fill it up with the water i have and add more over a period of time????

The only problem i have with filling it up with the water a have is that i used a HOB skimmer on the old tank and im afraid that the intake will not be long enough to reach the water level as it short.

If anybody can give me any ideas it will really be appreciated.....

Thanks Dean

[FS] otto fluidised bed filter (can be used or phos/carbon media)

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 2:39am CST by leslie hempel

if i havent used it by now chances are i wont in the future.. selling for cash to help with funding my mozambique trip..

[FS] TS4 skimmer (3 x OTP2000 pump version)

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 2:14am CST by leslie hempel

Hey Guys i have this skimmer that im wanting to sell, i need cash for my Mozambuique trip. it is the older TS4 with 3 x OTP2000 pumps its rated at 2500lt and works like a bomb.. it does have a crack in the casing but other than astetics will not detract from the units performance as it is an insump skimmer..

thanks Les

Bacteria dosing prices

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 6:53pm CST by Johan van Aardt

Hi guys im looking for bacteria to dose in my tank

i dont know all the names

the only names i know is

microbacter 7 and
prodibio

can you guys please add all the other bacteria dosing u guys have as well?
as well as prices

thanx guys

heaters, pumps, powerheads, t5 lighting, tanks and sumps: potch

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 5:28pm CST by Singularity

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

heaters, pumps, powerheads, t5 lighting, tanks and sumps

Location:

potch

Shipping or Collection only:

shipping

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Eheim 3000+ compact (3 available) @ R700 ea

Resun SP-3800 powerheads (3 available) @ R200 ea

Tanks 1250x450x600(h) (6 available) water level 500 @ R650 ea

Sumps 1250x450x450 (3 available) @ R500 ea

DIY t5 lighting fittings (9 available, with water proof endcaps and osram 54w dual ballast) R250 ea including 2 globes

jager 300w heaters (6 available) @ R250 ea

if you want something shipped (excluding the tanks and sumps) add R20 for packing material and i will courier it at buyers expense

pics here---> [FS] Holding, Breeding Setup - Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Notes: If someone wants everything they get preference

-

Looking for a float switch

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 3:45pm CST by Tony

Hi All. Where in Jo'burg can I get a float switch? Mines on the fritz

Shotto

Cooling for Nanos's

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 2:17pm CST by neo

IceProbe Thermoelectric Aquarium Chiller, Nova Tec Inc

Beautiful new livestock at Idol Marine

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 1:23pm CST by Bob the (reef)builder

We just landed a really awsome shipment from Singapore and the Phillipines.:thumbup:

Come and see what we have.

Sohail Tangs
Big Naso's
Gold rimmed Surgeons, Powder blues, Scopas tangs
Yellow faced, Navarchus, Heraldi, and many pygmy angels.
Shrimps, Brittle stars, big hermits and urchins.
Great Perculas, clarki, Maroon, Fire clowns and damsels.
Flame and Fire gobies, also blue cheeked and orange spot.
Sun burst Anthias at the very good price of only R 185.00
Square anthias
Copperbands, Mandarins and much more.

Even a shark egg:P

Also plenty of corals and live rock.

Come and see our new display tank, its going to be great.

Come and visit.:1:

The Idol Marine crew.

For all you maths people out there!! this is how one goes nuts!

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 1:11pm CST by vatso

I was thinking about a moment in time & it being infinite

which means the duration of a second is infinite in fact any duration is infinite

You can divide a moment infinitely in fact any area, space or number can be divided infinitely

How does time move forward?

Bonsai Fish - Just a Fun thread

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 12:56pm CST by vatso

Right so I have been thinking I do lots of this!

We all like small things well some of us more then others ;)

Now we can make trees, feet people & who know what else smaller!! why not fish?

I was think if we were to trim there fins like we trim birds wings - would this not give the fish the idea of being in a bigger tank? they would need to do who know how many more fin kicks :)

What about corals we frag them why not try make cool shapes out of them like get them to bend or grow in ways we want?

It's Friday & my doctor said I am allowed :)

Have a great weekend peeps

im new at it and i am struggling

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 9:37am CST by demha

hi every1. how ah u all doing this fine morning!

[FS] aqua medic turbo floter

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 8:58am CST by mahan

AQUA MEDIC TURBO FLOTER FOR SALE RATED 1000L AQUA MEDIC PH 3000 PUMP WITH NEEDLE WHEEL IMPELLER R1200 URGENT SALE
DIMENSIONS +/- 500MM*150MM ABOUT DIMENSIONS CAN BE USED AS A HANG ON SKIMMER ON SUMP OR TANK SIDE

HOPE THE IMAGE SHOWS

Red sea max special!!!!!!!

Posted: February 12th, 2010, 8:19am CST by Moolis

Hi Reefers

Great news:slayer::yeahdude:

We have a massive special on Red Sea Max 130 and 250 for a short time only

Prices to be posted within the next hour:lol:

If you ever thought of getting one, THIS IS YOUR opertunity:thumbup:

Moolis

Mozzi's and Moths

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 9:15pm CST by neo

I have a lot of mozzi's and moths dropping into my sump during the night when the sump light is on (sump area is open), is this bad for the tank/water ?

DSB info link and lighting

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 9:07pm CST by neo

I was searching the net for DSB info and found this
Deep Sand Beds
Now my question from above site.
They say most of the activity happens in the dark, but we light-up our DSB's in reverse cycle to get the cheato growing and for more stable Ph, in my instance I have an open stand so my DSB receives normal light during day and room light untill 23:00 and then the DSB light kicks in untill 6:00 next morning so not much darkness going.
Is this to much light and will it scare off the 'gôggas'.
The mentioned site have a suggestion of splitting the DSB having the cheato and light in one part and keeping the other park dark, what's your take on this?

Cheato pls ?

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 8:50pm CST by neo

Hello,
I'm looking for some cheato, Pta/Centurion area.
Thx.

Where to get loc-line tubing ?

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 6:09pm CST by Singularity

Does anyone know where i ca get some loc line tubing and fittings, have been searching for a while now...

Dry Aragonite and Arag-Alive

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 5:03pm CST by Manic

Hey everyone,

Has anyone tried the Arag-Alive product. It says it contains bacteria that will reduce your cycling time. I'm battling to see how this is possible. The bags sit at LFS for months and months, how do these bacteria survive or is it just a marketing ploy?

Cleaning corners

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 4:14pm CST by neo

Hi,
how do i clean the corners of my tank?
I'm starting to get some brown-green growth at the glass/silicon edges and was thinking of just sliding the glass cleaner against it but i don't know what this will do to the silicon.

Various corals for sale: take 2! Pta, Hatfield

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 3:12pm CST by Furbz

Various corals for saleCommon Names:

many corals

Scientific Names:

-

Size of coral

-

How long have you had the corals?

-

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Your location.

take 2! Pta, Hatfield

Price:

-

Photo's:

hi guys,this is take 2!!

i am selling off a few of my LPS and softies to make room for some SPS.
bin wanting to try out keeping SPS for a while and the money made here will go towards buying some nice SPS pieces for my system.

all corals listed here are for sale as either a full unit or i can frag the coral (if possible)

i am also willing to swap out pieces for SPS corals or frags.

here we go!

Large mat of green star polyps.
the mat in on a piece of live rock about the size a closed fist and has completely grown around the rock..
R300

A couple of frags of a Kenya tree..
the picture is of the mother tree.
price ranges from R30 to R60 depending on what piece you want.
i will frag you a piece as you arrive..

Branching goniopora coral.
the branching variety is much better suited to aquariums setup and is hardier..
i have kept it in my system and it has flourished.
can be fragged into 4 pieces.
R400

I think this is a frog spawn but it has alot more knobs on its polyps.
it is brown grey with green tips. very pretty coral.
can be fragged into 3 piece (2 of which have split and are basically 2 heads)

also a frag of trumpet coral visible in this pic
R20

Large leather coral
R300

and pulsing xenia frags
--> i have 2 varieties

the normal pulsing Xenia
Prices will range depending on the size of the frag you would like.
once again i will frag this when you arrive..

and the blue Xenia (not sure if it is a pulsing Xenia)(i hear this is hard to come by?)
Prices will range depending on the size of the frag you would like.
once again i will frag this when you arrive..

brown Polyps
a frag rock with around 10 polyps
photo is of the type of polyp and not the actual piece. the actual piece is in a hard to photograph position
R50

Large green brain coral
this coral is super hardy and feed every night like a pig!
R400

i also have a 2 small blue acro frags for sale
one is 3cm. R80
the other is 5cm. R100

Notes:

if you have issues with the prices please let me know as this is done on a best estimate guided by friends.
Regards, Keith [/INDENT]Notes:

-

2010-02-12 shipment

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 12:32pm CST by Moolis

Hi Reefers

Just got confirmation on packing list!!:thumbup:

It is slowly getting back to business as usual:lol::lol:

This are going into our boxes!!

Remember if you are buying out of the box or buy within the 1st day or 2 you are taking some risks - THAT IS WHY we give you discounts on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd day!! This is up to 15% = SOMETIMES UP TO 25%:slayer:

Anemone - Stoichactis mix med - Carpet anemone
Anemone - Radianthus mix med - Long tenticle anemone
Invert - Periclimens - Anemone shrimps
Invert - Palinurus - Blue lobster
Invert - Clypeaster australasiae - Sand dollar
Soft coral - Cespitularia sp med - Blue streak Phosphor coral
Soft coral - Lemnalia sp med
Soft coral - Kenya tree
Soft coral - Xenia pumping med - Pumping Xenia
Sponge - Neospongodes sp. Med - orange/red Champain glass sponge
Star - Ophiomyxa (snake starfish) solid orange - Orange starfish
Worm - Protula sp - Feather worms

Angel - Centropyge-acanthops - Jumping Bean
Clown - Amphiprion-xanthurus - African clown
Fish - Zanclus-cornnutus - Morish Idol
Gobie - Salarias-fuscus - Salaria goby
Goldie - Nemanthias carberryi - Goldie
Tang - Acanthurus-leucosternon sm - Blue Tang
Tang - Acanthurus-leucosternon med - Blue Tang
Tang - Acanthurus nigrofuscus - Brown brittle tooth tang
Tang - Siganus-stellatus (Rabbit fish) - Brown spotted spinefoot rabbit
Tang - Paracanthurus-hepatus sm - Powder Blue tang
Tang - Naso-brevirostris - Spotted unicorn tang
Tang - Acanthurus-caeruleus (yellow Doctor) sm - Yellow Doctor tang
Tang - Acanthurus-caeruleus (yellow Doctor) med - Yellow Doctor tang
Tang - Acanthurus xanthopterus - Yellow fin tang
Wrasse - Labroides-dimidiatus - Cleaner wrasse
Wrasse - Macropharyngodon-bipartitus - Divided wrasse
Wrasse - Cirrhilabrus-exquisitus - Exquisite wrasse
Wrasse - Gomphosus-caeruleus male - Green bird wrasse
Wrasse - Halichoeres-iridis - Irides Wrasse
Wrasse - Anampses-meleagrides sm - Yellow tail tamarin

Various frags for sale: EL aka Slummies

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 10:39am CST by Mudshark

Various frags for saleCommon Names:

montipora capricornis

Scientific Names:

montipora capricornis

Size of frags

The overall size of the section to be removed is about 30cm in diameter. It comprises of many sections or separate scrolls, which may or may not come away in 1 or 2 pieces.

How long have you had the frags?

2,5 years

Are the frags mounted?

No

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Your location.

EL aka Slummies

Price:

R400

Photo's:

Notes:

This is a fast growing hardy coral and should be placed in the lower part of the aquarium, so that it doesn't steal light from other corals at a later stage.

It ranges from beige to green and has a pink edge.

Requires moderate flow and good lighting.

I'd like to frag this weekend if possible as it's stealing light, flow and swimming space.

a good definition and goal of LNS and ULNS systems

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 10:08am CST by dallasg

Quote:

Maintaining ultra-low (e.g. immeasurable) nutrient concentrations in reef aquaria and
precisely-controlling the inorganic and organic substances entering the system can
result in vibrant coloration of zooxanthellate corals and their allies.

Stated simply, this method removes undesirable nutrients and provides beneficial
nutrients. To be slightly more descriptive, it:

Extracts phosphate, ammonia, and dissolved organic material from aquarium water by direct adsorption.
Limits production of nitrate and minimizes the presence of latent organic material in the system.
Provides specific organic and inorganic substances for the express purpose of enhancing health, growth, and vibrant coloration of corals and their allies.

New Arrivals

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 9:23am CST by Naiema

Just to let you know about our stunning new shipment... ie Regal, Sailfin and Brown tangs, Foxface, Butterflies, Clowns, Banggais, Chromis,Damsels, Mandarins,Bubble tips and more. Ph 0217122534/0826368990.

Pads DIY Skimmer

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 9:14am CST by Pads

During the process of setting up my 5ft tank I was looking around for a new skimmer.
Needless to say I was a little shocked to see the amount of money I needed to shell out.

So I undertook to build my own. After some research and inspiration of ToppDoggs DIY Skimmer. I set off to the hardware to collect the parts.

The first attempt saw me attach an inlet pipe of 20mm and outlet of 20mm, First big mistake. The skim cup overflowed immediately using a 2000l/h pump. First Lesson Learned. Then I had to re-drill a larger hole around that fitting. Not easy but I managed.

Next once that was complete I got my OPT-2000 and with the 32mm outlet, connected it up and off we went This time the bubble level reached only 3/4 the way up the cylinder.
So I had to cut off 60mm off the top down (to 340mm from 400mm) and redo the neck again.

Finally its done, not the neatest job but with a little planning, and the use on my new Dremel, we can get the joins a little neater using PVC weld. Here are the pics.

Very sad morning

Posted: February 11th, 2010, 8:31am CST by Tony Ingram

I woke up this morning to find that my fox face is not begging for food at the front of the tank as he dose every morning. so i go looking for him only to find him dead on on the bottom of the tank. I don't understand he was eating fine and still being himself yesterday??? everyone ells is fine or look fine eating doing there thing.:(

Urgent help needed Help with Ich

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 7:35am CST by Lockes

Hey

I added some fish recently to my main tank and did not use my quarantine tank so I know this is my fault but I need some help

I can see my Regal has picked up Ich

I did re-aquascape a few days ago so it may have been the stress from that which caused the outbreak

What is the best medication to use in the tank as trying to catch these fish is impossible unless I take the whole tank apart which would seem to stress everyone out anyway making the situation worse

I have read Seachem paraguard and Metronidazole will work but does this only treat the fish? Surely the life cycle of ich is way too long and it will just come back?

Its also very expensive........My system is around 1000 - 1200 litres in total which means dosing at least 26g every two days and therefore R900 every 8 days !!!

Any help would be appreciated

Urgent help needed Help with my Regal

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 10:49pm CST by gMAN

Hey guys, dunno if this is serious or not being a newbie, got home from work this evening to find white spots on my regal, spoke to somebody, said my cleaner shrimp should take care of it, should I be concerned? She was fine when I left home this morning.. Please advise anyone?

My Sun Coral

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 9:57pm CST by vatso

My Sun Coral just starting to open up

Candy Cane need to know more

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 9:50pm CST by vatso

Hi all

a candy cane has tentacles at night on the outside of the green center & then black tentacles from the center little holes

what's the difference & what are they used for? the our side tentacles seen short & clear the center ones are black

thanks
Mark

Clams compatible with fish ?

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 7:44pm CST by ZeroCool

Hi there, are clams compatible with fish ? I have a few fish, 2 clowns, 1 toby, 2 fire fish and shrimps ... Question, will any clamp survive in such a setup ?

Jumping Bean eating my Candy Cane

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 5:23pm CST by vatso

Hi all

my Jumping bean is going to the tentacles that come out of my candy cane coral - what do I do & is it bad for the candy cane?

Supplier of livestock

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 3:35pm CST by squire

Hi guys,

I'm based in Mpumalanga, near Lydenburg and I am looking for some lifestock, specifically a flame angel, a potters angel, a chevron tang, a spotted yellow eye kole tang, a sohal tang and an achilles tang. Does anyone know of a reputable supplier who would be willing to deliver to this area, or a reputable supplier in the Guateng area that I could buy from?

Your ultimate Bad-ass tank

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 3:23pm CST by FDB

Hiya guys.
Dunno about you, but anglers, frogfish, scorpions, etc just does it for me.
If you had a spare 300L tank with rocks and all the goodies (lights, etc), which baddies would you add to it, and which decorative plants/corals/etc would you add?

In other words, what would all be in your ultimate baddie tank?
Mine:

Maybe:

Fragging Gorgonians

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 3:17pm CST by Jaco Schoeman

Just a question:

Does fragging gorgonians kill them? The Acabaria Delicata NPS gorgonian I have has a few stripped branches. I got it like that from the LFS. There are no "meat" on them, but on the other end they still have polyps that comes out and eats etc. If I were to cut them on that black area where there is not "meat" would they do fine?

The reason I want to do this, is that those areas are just magnets for detritus to stick to it. It pulls strains almost like algae then, and this hinders polyps in close facinity.

I have done a similar thing with my Menella last year, and it is doing 100%, but not sure if I might kill the acabaria.

Any advice?

Planning a new tank

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 2:58pm CST by PostersPlus

Im planning to custom build a 2200 x 800 x 800 tank.

Regarding the sump will this setup be suitable for a fowlr tank.

Why wont it show Jpeg?

I give up. Please ignore thread.

Sorry

2 Meter Shallow Reef

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 2:55pm CST by Jaco Schoeman

Hi Gents

I am busy planning a 2m shallow reef tank, that I'd like to start getting together and run by end of the year. This is what I have in mind, and please add your thoughts. I need all the advice I can get. ;)

Tank dimensions:

2000(l) x 300(w) x 500(h)

Flow:
Flow will be accomplished by a Tunze Nano Wave Box. The water level will only be 300 - 350mm to allow for the wave.

Filtration:
Overflow will be via a hole in the middle of the tank, from where it will run into a 1.5m sump area.

My plan is to have only a little live rock in the tank, and not make it too crowdy. I will have extra LR in the sump for additional filtration though.

Coral List:
LPS and Softies

Fish List:
Tangs (regal and yellow) Perc's, cardinals, firefish, chromis - that type of thing, nothing too exotic.;)

Lighting will be MH.

What do you think, will a narrow shallow tank with a wavebox work or not?

Clown Fish

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 2:38pm CST by Goby

Helo reefers,

looking to get some clowns for my tank. the thing is ek soek nie die ordinary ocellaris clowns nie. laat my te veel aan nemo dink :P. i have been looking at the tomato clown (and u may think wow if that's extraordinary) but at least its a bit different than nemo.

Now i have read up on the clown and everywhere they say " like any other clown it is best kept singly unless a pair is introduced together. It may attack other clownfishes and nip at passive tank-mates who wonder near its host anemone or territory.

My question, will it be save to introduce 2 tomato's at the same time? or will they fight till death? this will be the only clowns i'll ever keep

Does anyone have baby clownfish?

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 2:22pm CST by Dane

Hey all,

I just wanted to know if anyone has a brood of young clownfish? Particularly in Cape Town... (ocellaris)

Thanks,
Dane

Urgent help needed Zoa's sick

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 1:52pm CST by Boendoe

Hi all, I have large patch of green zoa's growing in my tank for over 2 years now, but two weeks ago I noticed that one area the polyps are closed for several days. I left it and waited to see if they would recover, but they started to get a green slime coveting the closed polyps. It started to spread so I cut out the sick ones but this did not help as it's still spreading.

There hasn't been any major change in the water parameters or new additions to the system, and all of the other corals seems fine. It also can't be another coral stinging the zoa's as the affected area is far away from any other stinting coral.

Any advice?

Where do i buy a marine aquaruim

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 1:42pm CST by vleis

Hi
Kindly assist.I have stated about 2 weeks ago when joining MASA that I am a novice when it comes to marine aquaruims.

You all advised that I should read, read, read re......and do research. Well I now have a much better understanding of this very interesting hobby. Now for the question......Where can I buy a complete marine tank? Yes I now know more lol one with a sump, skimmer wavemaker return pump heater lights and the whole lot????

I do not want to buy a tank with live corals and fish as I want to start everything right from thr start. (I think I must buy new) No I dont want a nano or read see one. I want a 250 litres display tank. No use telling me to build one myself. i have ten thumbs.

Can anyone please help?????

New Bucket of Seachem Salt for sale: Benoni

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 1:35pm CST by Ridwaan

Hardware for saleThread title:

New Bucket of Seachem Salt

Location:

Benoni

Shipping or Collection only:

Will ship at buyers expense, JHB preferance first

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Howzit Guys...

Ive got a brand new bucket of Seachem reef salt that I need to sell.:thumbup:

R850 not neg

Notes:

-

Harlequin breeding pair - Female is preggies.

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 12:37pm CST by FDB

Hi all.
My harlequin pair is about to have thier first batch of hatchlings.
Mommy is carrying heavily on dark eggs allready.

If anyone wants to take a stab at raising the young, please let me know.

Wanted: Captive raised clownfish

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 12:27pm CST by Dane

Hi there,

has anyone successfully bred their ocellaris clownfish? I would very much like to get in touch. I would like to buy two more but I will not buy wild caught spp.

Thanks
Dane

RO Filter advice

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 12:01pm CST by Slagter

Hey Marco...

I got given a 3 stage RO filter by a friend. It has 1 activated Carbon unit, a membrane unit and a 3rd chamber that's label has been washed off. I'm not sure what this is for, but I obviously want to use this unit for my new Marine tank and I am hoping that it is ok to use.

What should I test for in this unit? Do you have any TDS meters available?

Please let me know.

Kind regards

Sean

[FS] Profilux Light II

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 11:51am CST by SIMS

Hi

I have a ProfiLux II Light for sale.

It is basically new. Used for perhaps 30 days. Comes with a serial cable and Temp proble.

It can do the following:-

Profilux Light
We are pleased to introduce the Profilux Light to the UK market for the first time. "The Intelligent Plugbar"

Ever wanted temperature control, Tunze Stream control, Plug Timers, LED weather simulation, Dimmable T5 lighting control, PC interface and data recording all in one unique self contained plug bar unit... Profilux Light is that unit!

The Profilux Light is a plugbar with the computer built into the actual plugbar and has the following ports available for use:
4 x UK 240v sockets: Which can be controlled either as timed sockets, or responsive to the temperature sensor.
Temperature Port: For the addition of a temperature sensor so that you can control heaters, fans or lighting that will automatically switch off for the day if your temperature exceeds a certain value.
2 x Low voltage ports: Each port has 2 channels each. Each channel can be used to control Tunze Streams or GHL LED simulation lighting or Dimmable T5 lighting units.
PC Port (RS232 Serial) for connection to a PC for control/data recording by the FREE Profilux Control Software.

This unit can be used in many situations, its name is derived from it's Lighting functions and is perfectly suited for large tanks where you want a controller to mount onto a lighting rig, set up and forget about it!
For small/nano tanks where separate monitors are used currently or full parameter measurement isn't required.

This unit is not expandable and cannot accept any of the GHL expansion cards, but provides many of the great GHL Profilux functions in a neat and exceptionally functional way.

Reason for selling is it took me 6 months to plug it in and I have now decided to take down my display tank.

Retail is R3561

For Sale at R2650 inc. delivery to your post office

[FS] Tunze 6105's

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 11:47am CST by SIMS

Hi

I have 2x Tunze 6105's less than 12 months old in perfect working order.

These come with magnets for up to 19mm glass. Probably the best pumps I have owned to date.

I will also give you brand new impellors for each as I have spares.

R2850 each

Monthly Maintenance Costs

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 11:41am CST by bluefronted

Hi Guys,

I was wondering what would be a rough estimate on a montly basis ( RRR) be for maintaining a 900l to 1000l tank. Just maintenace not stock.

;)

[FS] Shallow tank and sump for sale

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 11:27am CST by Tobes

Hi guys, I'm selling my shallow tank and sump - not gonna use it anymore. I had it running for 11 months.
Tank size is 1200L x 600W x 380H, 6mm glass with 12mm base, centre overflow and euro bracing top and bottom.
Sump is 1000L x 400W x 400H 3 chambers.

There are slight scratches at the bottom area of the tank. Tank ideal for frag setup in a LFS :whistling: as it is shallow.

Offers on R1500 or to swap for 2x boxes of real ocean salt and carbon at a LFS (sponsor). NO STAND INCLUDED.

Let me know, it's taking up space. Can make a plan to deliver in PTA area. Thanks :)

How impotant is it to use a wave controller?

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 11:00am CST by Slagter

Hey guys...

While I'm researching all this reef stuff, I thought it pertinent to ask. How important is it to use a controller for your pumps? While I understand that using one would create a more random flow, is it really vital to the health of a reef aquarium? Let's put it this way, without one, would the conditions in the reef tank deteriorate over time? I know people don't always use them in their setups, but the more advanced setups have them almost 100% of the time.

I guess it is best to try and replicate nature as best you possibly can, but do these things help in that regard?

Thanks in advance...

Sean

Various corals for sale: Pta, Hatfield

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 10:19am CST by Furbz

Various corals for saleCommon Names:

many corals

Scientific Names:

-

Size of coral

-

How long have you had the corals?

-

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Your location.

Pta, Hatfield

Price:

-

Photo's:

hi guys,
i am selling off a few of my LPS and softies to make room for some SPS.
bin wanting to try out keeping SPS for a while and the money made here will go towards buying some nice SPS pieces for my system.

all corals listed here are for sale as either a full unit or i can frag the coral (if possible)

i am also willing to swap out pieces for SPS corals or frags.

here we go!

(PRICES TO COME, MOST OF THESE CORALS CAME AS A BUNDLE WHEN I BOUGHT THIS SETUP AND SO I AM UNSURE OF THEIR WORTH)

Large mat of green star polyps.
the mat in on a piece of live rock about the size a closed fist and has completely grown around the rock..
R300

A couple of frags of a Kenya tree..
the picture is of the mother tree.
price ranges from R30 to R60 depending on what piece you want.
i will frag you a piece as you arrive..

Branching goniopora coral.
the branching variety is much better suited to aquariums setup and is hardier..
i have kept it in my system and it has flourished.
can be fragged into 4 pieces.
R400

Frog spawn, brown/green
this can also be fragged into 5 pieces (some with 2 mouths and splitting)
R300

I think this is a frog spawn but it has alot more knobs on its polyps.
it is brown grey with green tips. very pretty coral.
can be fragged into 3 piece (2 of which have split and are basically 2 heads)

also a frag of trumpet coral visible in this pic
R20

Large leather coral
R300

and pulsing xenia frags
--> i have 2 varieties

the normal pulsing Xenia
Prices will range depending on the size of the frag you would like.
once again i will frag this when you arrive..

and the blue Xenia (not sure if it is a pulsing Xenia)(i hear this is hard to come by?)
Prices will range depending on the size of the frag you would like.
once again i will frag this when you arrive..

brown Polyps
a frag rock with around 10 polyps
photo is of the type of polyp and not the actual piece. the actual piece is in a hard to photograph position
R50

Large green brain coral
this coral is super hardy and feed every night like a pig!
R400

Notes:

if you have issues with the prices please let me know as this is done on a best estimate guided by friends.
Regards, Keith

help needed

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 9:33am CST by regis

My Torch coral has lost 2 heads, one a day, i checked my water pars last night
they are as follws

temp 27
kh 3.72 meg/l
MG1280
SG 1.026
CA 350
PH 8.4
PHOS 0.1
AMMONIA 0.03
NITRATE 0
NITRITE 0

I have been having these readings for the last 3 months, I have had the torch almost a year now, could it be the phosphate, I have seachem phosguard in the sump, I have been using the Red Sea phosphate test kits, I have 2 of them just in case 1 was giving faulty readings, my phosphate reading always reads 0.1 for the past year or so,

any suggestions.

thanks

Quotes on different tanks

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 8:48am CST by Tobes

Hi guys, I need a few prices on different tanks. Here goes

600L x 600W x 600H cube - rimless with c to c overflow at the back

1. In normal glass with black silicon
2. In normal glass with clear silicon
3. With 3 sides starfire with black silicon

1200L x 600W x 600H tank - neatly euro braced on top and bottom with c to c overflow on the short side so that tank has two long viewing sides and one short one

1. In normal glass with black silicon
2. In normal glass with clear silicon
3. With 3 sides starfire with black silicon

Both should have 1 hole in the overflow, will go into details when I made up my mind regarding hole size :P

So, that should be 6 prices then - hope you guys can help :)

Thanks

curing live rock

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 8:46am CST by iggy

Morning All

So my marine tank is sort of up and running. (half full of water)

i ordered Kenyan Live Rock and is busy curing it at the moment. it has been running now for almost 3 weeks.

i am doing 100% water changes every 3-4 days. recently i noticed that there are pinkish stuff that looks like sponges growing on the rock.

is this normal and do i want to grow on the rock or should i scrub it off?

you guys got any advice??

[FS] 2.6m tank and stand for sale, R3000

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 8:46am CST by robvdv

I really need to sell my old 2.6m tank and stand. It's at an LFS at the moment and he needs the space back.

Two shots of the tank and stand are viewable here: http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x214/robvdv/tankandstand.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x214/robvdv/tankshot.jpg

Dimensions are 2600mm x 750mm x 650mm, L x H x W. The stand is very well made, making it easy to get access to the sump and equipment. The canopy and other cabinetry is included.

For R3000 it's a steal.

Ultra Water Filtration System

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 8:28am CST by Creep

I found a new type of water purifier and are not sure what to make of it, its called a Ultra Filtration System.

Can this be used on a marine reef tank is there someone using this filtration system. What I like about this system is there is no waste water.

Johan's 720l

Posted: February 10th, 2010, 8:01am CST by johanpm

Hi all,

Well, what can I say? My son's TL-550 is now at the point where I can't do much more to it.

So, I have now bought a 2nd hand 720l tank (1500l x 600w x 800h).
I am going to collect it this weekend.

A million things are racing through my mind as to what I want to do and how.

First step... Finding the manpower to move the tank. The glass is 15mm thick!

Happy Birthday Marco

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 4:07am CST by chikaboo

Marco Have great day and may you see many many more Make sure you dont have too many ....

very exciting this!

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 12:26am CST by Achilles

of course public aquaria in hawaii, have alot of resources to do this but still!

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/02/09/g...bruce-carlson/

those are worth every cent if you get them to a sellable size

Wanted:Auto topup

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 8:33pm CST by maj

My ato has packed up,not sure why it broke but luckily i got home intime before it started to flood the house.
thus im looking for another one now,new or used.
please pm me!!!

Breeding information about Banggai Cardinals

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 8:08pm CST by LuckyFish

Is it that what you want?

26 tiny banggais´s after their first "breakfast".

Dane was actually the one, who made me write this thread.

Pterapogon kauderni-Banggai cardinal

this species lives around the banggai islands (Indonesia) and is only found there in an area of 9.500 square kilometers.

To provide as much information as possible in one thread, here is the link again,
which was posted originally by Dane.

Pterapogon kauderni (Banggai Cardinalfish)

This is the link to an article written by Matthew Wittenrich

http://en.microcosmaquariumexplorer....i_Cardinalfish
Almost all the following informations are based on my experiences. All the posted pictures in this thread were taken by myself.
I know, there are many banggai breeder in SA, like Steve, please post your experiences here, to get as many new breeder as possible on board.
For the record, I will help and support anybody (except the person below, he is breeding constantly a other species:razz:), who is going to breed the banggai cardinal.

Where do I start?

The banggai cardinal reached the marine ornamental fish market for the first time in
1994 or 1995.
In 1997, while I was still living in Germany, I bred a few hundred of them. With little success, because that time back, we were not aware of the Sudden Fright Syndrome.

Explanation SFS = Sudden fright syndrome (Explanation originally from MOFIB)

A common problem caused by insufficent HUFAs in the diet during larval development. Symptomatic fish will freeze or faint and drift to the bottom. SFS is brought on by sudden stimuli, including turning on the lights, additions of food, and sudden disturbances (including netting). What actually happens is the stimuli essentially short-circuits (shocks) the nervous system and the fish becomes paralyzed. Depending on the severity and frequency of the event(s), is often lethal.
SFS is readily prevented and corrected, through enrichment of live foods using phytoplanktons (alive or pastes) or if your using dead or prepared foods, then the use of a liquid HUFA supplement such as SELCO, SELCON, ZOECON,etc.
The last sentense does not make sense to me, because liquid HUFA suppliments are also used to enrich live food like rotifer and brine shrimps.

Explanation HUFA (Explanation originally from MOFIB)

Used interchangably as shorthand typically for the OMEGA-3 fatty acids required in mariculture to ensure proper larval and juvenile development. Typically used in reference to fatty acid supplementation.

Take NOTE:

HUFAs are required for ALL species to avoid SFS and other problems in development of larvae (fish, shrimps, etc).

The banggai cardinal is a species, which matures to adulthood very fast, compare to other species (clowns, etc.). At the age of only four months, the still small cardinals are starting to mate and to spawn. I experienced this at the age of five months.

Why is it so easy to breed the banggai´s (only if HUFA level is sufficent)

The banggai cardinal male releases fish and NOT larvae. The tiny banggai´s,
10 to 12 mm, are a split image of their parents, except the white spots.
They eat from day one freshly hatched brine shrimps. From day 3 I recommend to feed only HUFA enriched live food.

How many eggs and what size are they?
For sure, the bigger the male, the more eggs he can keep in his mouth and the more babies will be released.
A pair at the age of five months can produce (female) and keep (male) 25 eggs.
A pair at the age of one year, can produce and keep a minimum of 55 eggs.

These are 55 eggs. The eggs are rougly 2.5 to 3 mm in diameter.

Why did this happen to me, that I could take this picture?
I had a discussion via email with the well known German breeder Wolfgang Mai about my theory. He wrote in his latest book, a female banggai can produce eggs every 35 to 40 days. I should not have used the word B-U-L-L-S-H-I-T in my reply. He never contacted me again.:(

My theory was:
In the wild, the female spawns and fills the males mouth with the eggs. She probably cares about him for a few days. He will keep distance to the group and she will take on the next male. To me, it was nonsense, that a fish, with such low reproducing rate, will waste plenty of time with beeing monogamous (like seahorses).
I believed, they live a better life, just like the above pictured person, in polygamy.

The proof:
This ball eggs (picture above) was released and dropped onto the gravel, exactly 14 days after her previous spawn. So my theory was proven.
I had a chat with ORA in Florida about my plans of breeding banggais in higher quantity (remind me please to write about it). ORA could not tell me how they do it, because of their privacy policy. But I was told, they would do it similar.

From 4 pairs I bought, only one pair survived. My guess, they were caught with cyanide.
The last pair managed to release one batch (see first picture).
Every following spawn (every second week) was infertile. I could see it many times, when he was turning the white eggs in his mouth until maximum day 3.

How many babies can be produce from one batch?
As far as I know, the maximum release of fish babies was 39 in total. In average
25 to 30 are the standard.

How long does it take, until the fish babies hatch?
Hatching takes place in his mouth after more or less 20 days (depending on temparature).

When is he releasing the babies?
Depending on the water temperatur, he will release the babies after 24 to 30 days.

Why is the male not eating during this period?
I had a chat with a guy from the states and he told me, he got proof, that a male was eating newly hatched brineshrimp, while his mouth was full with babies.
It is believed and I actually got the proof, that the banggai male is using X-amount of eggs during the period, where he is carrying the eggs in his mouth as an emergency food supply.
Remember? The picture with 55 eggs? Never was a release bigger than 40 babies.
It might be, that a female can produce 60 or 70 eggs. Who knows.

I will continue later, otherwise you guys are getting tired of reading!

Overheating Reef

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 7:27pm CST by Storm

Hi Hi. been a long time. Hope everyone is still well. Sadly I need some help. My Reef seems to be overheating. Its sitting at 34'C with this hot weather. Any cheap suggestions to cool the tank down? atm im trying all sorts of funny's but maby there is a simpler one ive missed.

Picture of Frog Fish Hitrio histrio

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 6:47pm CST by Mason

The frog fish I caught on my first outing, not a good picture , he is doing hand stands

Nitrogen Cycle - an easy to understand diagram

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 4:23pm CST by Jaco Schoeman

This is to help newbies understand the Nitrogen Cycle a bit better. I got this from another site, so this is not my own write-up, but usefull none the less...;)

Nitrogen Cycle Stages
Stage 1
Ammonia is introduced into the aquarium via tropical fish waste and uneaten food. The tropical fish waste and excess food will break down into either ionized ammonium (NH4) or un-ionized ammonia (NH3). Ammonium is not harmful to tropical fish but ammonia is. Whether the material turns into ammonium or ammonia depends on the ph level of the water. If the ph is under 7, you will have ammonium. If the ph is 7 or higher you will have ammonia.
Stage 2
Soon, bacteria called nitrosomonas will develop and they will oxidize the ammonia in the tank, essentially eliminating it. The byproduct of ammonia oxidation is Nitrites. So we no longer have ammonia in the tank, but we now have another toxin to deal with - Nitrites. Nitrites are just as toxic to tropical fish as ammonia. If you have a test kit, you should be able to see the nitrite levels rise around the end of the first or second week.
Stage 3
Bacteria called nitrobacter will develop and they will convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not as harmful to tropical fish as ammonia or nitrites, but nitrate is still harmful in large amounts. The quickest way to rid your aquarium of nitrates is to perform partial water changes. Once your tank is established you will need to monitor your tank water for high nitrate levels and perform partial water changes as necessary. There are other methods to control nitrates in aquariums besides water changes. For freshwater fish tanks, live aquarium plants will use up some of the nitrates. In saltwater fish tanks, live rock and deep sand beds can have anaerobic areas where denitrifying bacteria can breakdown nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas that escapes through the water surface of the aquarium.
Getting The Nitrogen Cycle Started
There are two ways to get the aquarium cycle started, either with fish or without fish. Starting The Nitrogen Cycle With Fish
This is not the preferred way to get the nitrogen cycle started because the fish are being exposed to ammonia and nitrites during this process. Many fish can not and will not make it through the cycling process. Often times the fish become stressed and fish disease starts to break out. I wonder what percentage of disease is caused by the cycling of new aquariums?

Starting The Nitrogen Cycle Fishless
There are a few different ways to get this process started. To easily get an ammonia reading from your tank water try the Seachem Ammonia Alert. It sticks inside the tank and has a circle that changes color depending on the ammonia levels in the tank.

Option 1:
Using Fish Food
Drop in a few flakes every 12 hours. As the food decomposes it will release ammonia. You will have to continue to "feed" the tank throughout the process to keep it going.
Option 2:
Use a small piece of raw fish or a raw shrimp
Drop a 2 inch by 1 inch chunk of raw fish or a raw shrimp into the tank. As it decomposes it will release ammonia into the tank.
Option 3:
Use gravel and/or filter media from an established and cycled tank
This is the best and fastest way to go. This will seed the tank with all of the necessary bacteria for the nitrogen cycle. "Feed" the tank daily with flake food until you are getting nitrate readings. Depending on how fast you were able to get the gravel and filter media into your tank, you may be getting nitrate readings in only a day or two. There are some drawbacks to this method. Ask your source if they have recently used any copper medications in the tank. If they have and you are planning to have invertebrates in the tank you should probably not use this method. Invertebrates will not tolerate copper. Get a copper test kit to determine if it's safe to use.
Option 4:
Using live rock in Saltwater Tanks
The use of live rock in saltwater tanks has really taken off over the past few years. The reason for this is because it is one of the best forms of biological filtration available for saltwater tanks. The shape the rock is in when you get it will determine how long the nitrogen cycle will take. See step 7 on the saltwater setup page for more information on live rock.

Speeding Up the Cycling Process
There are things you can do to speed along the process of cycling your aquarium.

Increase the temperature of your aquarium water to 80°F-82°F (27°C-28°C)
Get some beneficial bacteria colonies. Borrow some gravel from an established and cycled aquarium. If you have another tank with an extra filter you can use it. If you have a really nice friend with an established and cycled aquarium, ask if you can have one of their used filter media. It will be loaded with the good bacteria that we are looking for.
There are products on the market that claim to introduce the beneficial bacteria. For more information, check out products like Bio-spira and Tetra SafeStart in option 6 above. There are many more products entering the market that contain the beneficial bacteria necessary to seed your tank. Between live rock (for saltwater aquariums) and the bottled bacteria being readily available, there really is no excuse to make fish suffer through a cycle.

Anyone had banggai cardinalfish breed?

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 4:10pm CST by Dane

Hey all,

I've been reading online that this is one of the more succesfull fish with captive breeding. They are also listed as "Vulnerable" - largely due to collection from their very restricted distributions.

Does anyone have a breeding pair? I would love to buy some offspring? I won't buy wild caught ones :-P

nice web site

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 3:10pm CST by regis

I do not know if anyone has posted this before, but it is a nice web site
take a look
Guide To The Tropical Pacific Reefs Fish, Corals and Creatures - Index of Species by Categories

cheers

Cyano Bacteria.

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 2:53pm CST by mandarin

Hi too all the good reefers out there ;) have a look.

Saltwater Aquariums - By Category

Interesting approach to tank cleaning

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 2:11pm CST by JAJA

:void(0)" target="_blank">

Asterina starfish pest

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 1:25pm CST by Kevin

Hi Guys,

Any ideas on how to get rid of asterina starfish? I have got literally hundreds of very small blue starfish which have stripped my tank of all the coraline algae and they are now chowing my star polyps.

I spent hours this past weekend picking out the ones I could get to, but this hardly made a dent in their numbers.

What will chow them, keepiing in mind that I have a TL550 tank and also have a few brittle stars?

Thanks

Which Skimmer?

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 1:05pm CST by Manic

Hey Everyone,

I've been searching around for a skimmer for my new tank but I can't decide on one, that's where you guys come in. I need your help.

Initially I was going to go for the Reef Octopus Extreme Series Protein Skimmer OCTX-200, but everyone I ask says it has been discontinued. So I'm looking for a skimmer in this price range (R3200+-). My total tank volume will be around 600L, I'm looking for a skimmer that can do 1200L+.

Here are just a few I've found:

Reef Octopus Skimmer DNW-200
ORCA-135-INT protein skimmer
TS3 Reeftek in-sump Skimmer

Which one would work best?

Protien skimmers???

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 12:36pm CST by KATHIE

Can I use a protien skimmer in a freshwater tank????

Disapointed in a member... Purchased a Emperator....

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 12:30pm CST by lanzo

Guys

Im very disappointed in one of your members:(, im not going to put him on the spot.

i called him regarding the angel...asking him if he is healthy and if the fish shows any symptoms of parasites in or around is mounts ect ect

He told me no nothing, it is fine.

o.k i drove over the boerewors belt....opened the container he placed him in for me..... i saw him covered in ich, lost of colour and rapid breathing.

i Told him i will pay him once the fish has been treated and fully recovered...he said it is fine.

But if this was a newbie he sold it too with no knowledge of treating a fish like this( the newbie would have placed it in his display and contaminated the rest of his fish too).....not very good.

It is in a separate tank i prepared last night for the fish...dropping the salinity slowly every day( hyper salinity treatment...and treating Metronidazole).

ill upload the picture of the fish for you guy now.

PLEASE GUYS DONT SELL OF FISH LIKE THIS....TAKE IT TO A LFS AND TREAT IT....

a new creature!

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 9:12am CST by naughtydragons

Hey there, I am very excited to announce that there is a new "creature" in my tank. I assume it came from the live sand I recieved to seed my dsb. I just wanna know what it is and if it ok.
It has been on a piece of liverock for 5days and has not moved away. There was a bit of (what I think was hair aglae - though it is seethrough not green) and I have seen it extend its tublar "mouth" to eat it. It has feelers and eyes similar to a snail. The body - of what I an see is red and half moon shaped. It raises itself up and then looks a bit less flat. The other fish seem to ignoring it.
Any one know what it might be?

I managed to get the picture in my album. PLease everyone have a look. It isn't a bristle worm for sure.

Feeding squid to corals - good or not?

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 9:04am CST by Jaco Schoeman

Hi guys.

Long story short, me and my dad decided to get squid and feed it to our corals (especially my azoo corals such as dendro.) So we got this frozen squid from Blue Marlin in Boksburg (which is fish shop and restaurant - not an LFS)

We put the squid in a blender, and mashed to a nice fine paste, froze it and Bob's yr ungle.

Problem is, that I have been feeding my tank for two days now, and since I started feeding, my sun corals aren't opening up any more :whistling:... All the other fish and corals (incl the dendro and gorgonians) seem fine.

My dad only fed for the first time last night, and he had a VERY weird reaction from all his softies. They all blew up like balloons.

Here are some MUSHROOMS :P

Now the question we both have, is this normal? I called the shop to find the name again, and they have their own name for it, called Potag Whole. It is a smallish squid that is redish purple, and had the heads and tentacles all in tact.

What are your thoughts, are they poisoning the corals?

PS: Dad's musrhooms etc all returned to normal later on again, with no ill effect from any fish also eating some stray particles etc.

Algae wanted

Posted: February 9th, 2010, 8:09am CST by ml

HI ALL,

Looking for some nice algea for my tank like brown or green algea but I can't seem to get any nic algea around that isn't dieing or going sexual. I am looking for some CAULERPA or bubble or even some leave algea doesn't matter to me.

thanks in advanced
Mornè

keeping a flagtail pipefish

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 7:39am CST by ziyaadb

Has anyone here kept a pair of flagtail pipefish? I would love to setup a small species only tank to keep a pair of these and would like to find out your experiences. any info would be appreciated.

how do i get rid GHA quickly

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 10:34pm CST by toppdogg

hey guys having a prob with GHA
i dont have a po4 test kit getting one soon
i have built a scubber been running for about 3 weeks now and has not helped with problem need some advice please

Adee's v2

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 9:55pm CST by Adee

Well it had to happen....upgraded to another tank :thumbup:. What can I say, having paid school fees for the last 7 years or so...I’m ready to start THE tank I’ve been dreaming about for a very long time.

So I have Punk (Ant) to thank for this tank, otherwise I would have still been dreaming about it. I’ve always liked the rimless look which also affords you with the best view (from the top). The tank is a ‘penninsular’ style and that will be viewable from both the long sides. The tank was built by Adriaan from Idol Marine. The tank itself is 24mm laminated low iron, “Starfire” glass. Length is 2m; width is 1m with a glass height of 70mm. Total water volume of just the display, is around 1200 litres.

Lighting will consist of the Reef Inmates 400w SPS Extreme lighting that consists of 3 x 400 SE globes which I will change to BLV 20000k’s once I’ve gotten everything set-up. The unit also has 4 x 54w T5’s. I will experiment with some actinic lighting when I cross that bridge. However I do plan to fully enclose the stoep area with a lot of glass (will be glass above the tank area), to harness as much natural lighting as possible.

For the engine room I plan to go as sump less as possible, I’ll use my current skimmer (Reefoctx 250) but may add another skimmer as well (lots of space underneath). I plan to run an Ultra Low Nutrient System. Part of the sump will be a detritus settlement catchment area that will ensure that when I do a water change the crap is collected and removed easily. Other than that, no part of the sump will be without a strong power head, this will help keep detritus in a suspended mode, good for coral food and exportation by the skimmer.

I will continue to use the Balling method, using my own made solutions for Alk, Mg and Ca additions, I’ll transfer my Profilux doser to this system. I will also supplement Ca via a Reefocto Kalkstirrer. I’m hoping the “open top” look will aid in cooling, I’ll have a fan that will blow lengthwise...I may not need a chiller, but will plumb it in, in any case.
The chiller and top off RO unit and mixing tanks will all sit outside in its own enclosure safe from the elements. The RO water tank and the mixing tanks are all glass tanks, each with a water volume of 200L’s.

As I want to go the full ULNS route, planning to maybe try and import the KZ range directly and see what the Zeovit side can do. But first I will run the system (breaking in period) using a massive algae scrubber that will be powered by the sun, lots of live rock and heavy skimming. I plan to also install a nitrate reactor (carbon fed)...busy reading up on that one; I’ve seen a couple in action. No DSB in this set-up (had to get a lot of convincing on this one), due to me going the carbon dosing/probiotic route.

Flow will be Tunze kitted: a Turbelle Stream pump 6201, 3x 6101’s and 2x 6100’s...6 pumps in total, driven off a 7095 controller. All pumps will link to the controller via 2x Y-Adapter’s that will allow for a total of 8 pumps that can be driven off the one controller. I also have a Tunze Osmolator top up unit and water level controller. I have two MD70 pumps, one will drive the return and also flow for reactors, etc., the other pump is for the closed loop system that will assist with keeping detritus free from settling under the rock scape.

As I’m doing some remodelling to fit in the tank, I also want to add in an all glass green house and experiment with frags and growth speeds under natural sunlight; this will all be plumbed into this system. I want to keep the whole system volume to less than 2000 litres.

And if u haven’t guessed it, this will be an SPS dominated system ;).

Tuesday 9th Feb - Mugg & Bean Northgate

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 9:44pm CST by dallasg

Hi All,

Jacquesb is up from cape town and would like to meet up, we will be meeting from 7:15pm at mugg and bean northgate.

Great to have one of the "guru's" up for a Q&A, hope to see you there, rsvp here if u will be making it just so i can see numbers

thanks

Floating Shelves

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 8:51pm CST by wito-zn

I Know this isn't about fish but i cant find something that can tell me how to build a floating shelf that will be strong enough to hold books.

I want to put them in my study and also want to build a desk that is attached to the wall almost a floating desk.

So all the DIY people please help me.

Thanks
Steve

Food for Racoon butterfly fish??

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 8:21pm CST by Mason

What do I feed this critter with.

new tank advice

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 8:15pm CST by rob1

I have a 250l (550x500x900)tank with a drip filter in the hood, it also has a fluval 404 .The lighting is 4x25w tubes.I have no space for a sump.Can this setup be used as a fish/liverock/easy invert.(if there is such a thing) tank?

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/08/Rob'

Rob

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 8:05pm CST by rob1

Hi everyone,My name is Robert,been keeping tropicals for +-30 years
Now I want to start a fish/easy invert tank.

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/08/Looking_for_some_help_%c2%96_what_does_this_'

Looking for some help what does this?

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 8:00pm CST by Dean76

This is my brothers tank. The cycle has completed and on Saturday we added a turbo snail and a hermit crab (blue legged). This evening there where all these little brown things, looks just like mouse poo.....LOL, what could it be from? Is it from the snail (like snail poo)?
Help will be greatly appreciated.

Hi from Mauritius

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 7:46pm CST by Mason

On my first day of fish collecting I found a "Frog Fish" Histerio Histerio. He loves convict surgeons and is fascinating to watch. Ros my wife did the research and identified the chap. He is off to the aquarium FOR OTHERS TO ENJOY THE PLEASURE OF WATCHING THIS WEIRD FISH.

Not a happy Sailfin

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 7:40pm CST by charlv

Hi guys

Need some help my sailfin got some white spot on friday and this morning stil fine eating and nipping on rocks now he is floating in a corner and not eating at all not even brine shrimp but breathe shallow. Tested water all good

Planing a new 5000L tank

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 5:02pm CST by Mainstay

Hi,

I am planing a new reef tank, and hope to get some great advice so i don't make a big mess. :(

The dimensions are 3300mm x 1500mm x 1100.

2 Glass windows. front 3215mm x 1125mm , left hand side, 1608mm x 1125mm, both 38.34mm low iron clear glass.

Other 2 sides as well as bottom are marine plywood, all sealed in black fiber glass.

All to be build inside a equal angle frame. 80mm x 10mm.
Stand is also steel, 100x50mm tubing frame.

Been planning a reef tank for the last 3 years, build a big lapa just to house it. at that time i was going to be a 20 000L tank. Wife stopped me just as I wanted to order the glass. Now I have her blessing but only for a smaller one. :)

Use to have a avr 600L fresh water tank, and a large koi pond. still got the koi. :)

So any advice would be greatly appreciated before I order the glass and steel this week.

Dorry Pets Corral shipment landing

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 4:52pm CST by lanzo

Hi guys

Its that time again!

CLAMS!!!!!!!!:yeahdude:.....45of them
LPS
SPS!!
SOFTIES

and some fish to top off the shipment.
350pcs in total

All fish will stay in quarantine for a week or two... before they will be ready to sell

Coral will be ready to sell the day after shipment has landed.;)

List will be uploaded later this week

Will let you know once it landed too.

See you guys later this week:wave2:

A little electrical help

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 4:13pm CST by shane

Hi Guys,
I am in need of some advise or help from anyone with some electrical back round.
The pump I have in mind to use is rated at 200 watts.
Now for my question.
Firstly power is fed from a 2 channel timer, the 1 channel is fed directly to the pump. The second channel goes through a speed controller ( was thinking about using a fan speed controller ). Basicly I wanted the pump to run flat out during the " daylight " hours on 1 channel but then at " night " swop over to the other channel and run at a reduced flow for the night.
If the electrical demand or draw is less than what the fan controller is rated for then would this type of setup work?
Please offer any comments.
Cheers

Diving Kingfisher

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 3:21pm CST by Ross

I know this is not marine related but I thought you photo buffs in here would find this interesting. Some guys have great ideas and implement them so well...

Diving Kingfisher Caught With Canon 40D Shows What Nature Photography Is All About - Adrian groves kingfisher - Gizmodo

Gman's 4ft

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 3:19pm CST by gMAN

Hey guys, so tomorrow i get all my new equipment for my 4ft. also getting another 10kg LR.

This is what my 3ft looked like.

my son ate my camera , once back from repairs will post pics of the 4ft, any advice on my setup will be appreciated
:yeahdude:

LPS Frags or Corals, will pay top $$$

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 3:01pm CST by dallasg

howdy, i need loads of lps corals to stock my tank, if u wanna sell frags or colonies, let me know

Awsome showtank with cabinet & Sump

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 2:34pm CST by Ridwaan

Hardware for saleThread title:

1500mm X 600mm X 700mm tank +cabinet & Sump

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Howzit Guys..

I have a 1500mm X 600mm wide X 700mm High tank with ice white cabinet and sump for sale...

Tank in excellent condition and around 5 months old
Will include plumbing aswelll..

Tank in 10mm glass eauro braced

Here are two pics..Sorry not the best quality...

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l5...a/IMAG0090.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l5.../IMAGE_036.jpg

Price: R4000

Offers and swops welcome

Mysterious R.I.P of a sailfin tang

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 2:11pm CST by Furbz

i woke up this morning to the sad sight of my sailfin tang swimming upside down sporadically into rocks and the glass.
for the life of me i have no idea what would have gone wrong.
this was one of my favorite fish and earlier today it passed on...

my tank parameters are all spot on..
the fish was not particularly large,
ate like a pig and was always very active in the tank.
all my other fish are 100%
this including a copperband as my most delicate fish..
followed by a bristletooth tang..
both are doing just fine

the tang when i found her, was not breathing heavily and seemed in all visual respects to be perfectly healthy..

i am at a loss as to explaining why i just lost my fish...
i have had her for over 6 months and before that she was in a fellow reefers setup for ages.

if anyone could please enlighten me on what could have gone wrong??

i dont know if it was just her time or maybe she injured herself?

i do have an anemone in my tank, but i could not see any signs of any sting to have cause her to be so traumatized..

any help would be nice..

thanx guys

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/08/jvc'

jvc

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 1:10pm CST by jvc

hello

For Hennie - NEW Canon 5dMkIII !

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 12:14pm CST by Rory

Check it out:
*UPDATE* 5D Mark III [CR1] | Canon Rumors

At least it's just a rumour...

advice on a system set-up

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 11:54am CST by Ash

Hi all. I'm new here, never realized that reef keeping had such a big following in SA! Its great!

Quite simply I'm looking for input on a few systems I'm setting up. Three in the long run but one 1 000 lt coral only tank for now. The other two are a 1250 lt and a 10 050 lt system.

It is up and running but has no filtration other than about 50 kg live rock. Water quality is a huge problem and temperature is even worse. I have just had a air cooled water chiller made and it is getting installed next week.

What I plan on doing is making a DIY wet/dry trickle filter placed on the tank outflow which then runs into the sump. In the sump will be 2 medium sized skimmers, 50 kg aragonite sand as a DSB, and a phosphate reactor on a separate loop. I am undecided on whether or not to use a calcium reactor or kalk reactor.

Also the top-up water comes from an ocean well point and has a slight sediment problem, 0.122 g/l! Fresh top-up (@10% per day) I think should be run through some sort of mechanical filter before being introduced into the system. Would a sand or cartridge filter be best for this?

And lastly, i need very good water flow for the spp we plan on keeping. Does anyone have an opinion on SCWD's? are they worthwhile and will they give adequate water movement in a 1000 lt tank?

Thanks! any input would be great.

Ash

Another new member

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 11:53am CST by LiftCrazy*

Hi Everyone,

My name is Lee and i am a originally from TASA.
I have a tropical 300L planted setup that my wife and I have recently decided to begin converting to Marine. :w00t:

When we get to that point, i will create a thread documenting our adventures as the journey progresses.

For now, i need to arm myself with as much info as i can... MASA, what better place to start?

Cheers,
Lee

[FS] DIY SKIMMER AND PUMPS

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 11:15am CST by mahan

HI GUYS I AM SELLING THIS DIY SKIMMER I BOUGHT AND AM NOT USING R700 SKIMMER DOES NOT COME WITH THE PUMP HOWEVER DO HAVE A PUMP THAT IS 17000L BOUGHT FROM REEF INMATES A BIT NOISEY FOR ME R400 VERY POWERFULL 280L A MIN ALSO AN ASTRO POWER HEAD 3000L AN HR R400 NEG PLZ SMS ME IF U NEED PICS AS I DO NOT HAVE WITH ME AND IT IS AN URGET SALE

VODKA de-nitrator

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 10:22am CST by poiromaniax

Anyone seen this product:

looks awesome.

NFP509(P) Nitrate Filter with Pump | The Aquarium Solution

Got 2 old woman angels to swap for frags?

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 10:11am CST by Ralphie

Hi all
Iv got 2x old woman +-1.5cm
If you want to swap for a softie frag or 2?

what should i see during cycling?

Posted: February 8th, 2010, 8:34am CST by neo

Hi,
with so many threads and questions on cycling cant we have a sticky consolidating everything ??
Anyway..

My tanks cycling for a week now, seeded the dsb thanks to riaanP and bought some LR (small amount).

My q, what should I see and expect during the weeks of the cycle? i.e. how long does it take for something to happen in the DSB and on the base rock I have?

Very little is happening at this point, I tested the water Saturday and everything is 0 except for nitrate that is sitting at 2.
Ph is at 8.3 ank alk at 2.5.

Indian Trigger

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 7:48am CST by Zuna

Hey Guys

anyone got any experience on these triggers

Looking for Livestock

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 1:55am CST by abgg118

Hi all,

I'm restocking my tank after about a year of lying low. I've already got a Tomato Clown (the male from my original pair), 2 Percula clowns which I'm hoping will pair up and 2 Pajama Cardinals (may have to get another one - these two doesn't hang around together, and I'd also like a pair of these). Then a purple-tip anemone, green star polyps, glove polyps, a few small leathers, 2 species of mushroom here and there and a few small colonies of random polyps. Then, 3x Turbo snails and a small hermit. Finally a black urchin which I've had for about 7 years (he originally hitch-hiked in on a piece of liverock when he was very small) - he only "comes out" to forage at night, and remains "hidden" on the underside of rocks during daytime.

It's a 2mx65cmx65cm (around 180 gallon) tank and I've got a DSB in the display with a 16cm high glass compartment built-in at the back, the sides of which are hidden from view by the rockscape. Overflow down to the sump, which houses a Tunze 9020 skimmer and a DIY algae scrubber that's running nicely.

Lighting = 6 T5's ("Actinic" and Aquablue+) with Dawn/Dusk effect (2 timers)

Circulation is provided by 2x Tunze Streams (6100 I think?) on a multicontroller, pointed towards one another along the back glass + another one running only when all the lights are on. And of course the return from the sump, which isn't much (I don't have gazillions of gallons per hour flowing through the sump).

I'm looking for the following livestock still:
2x Mandarins (pair) - I know about the live food issue. I've kept 2 mandarins (they turned out to be 2 males, though) in this tank before and they were thriving (got one when he was extremely underfed and he recovered nicely within a few weeks). So, the tank contains enough liverock and enough food for them.
Yellow Tang - saw some for R750 - are they that much already??
Regal Tang
2x Fire Gobies
2x or 3x Cleaner Shrimps
2x Fire Shrimps
Lawnmover Blennie, if it will be suitable
Maybe a sixline wrasse - I never had problems with my previous one, but heard they may be aggro.
I'd like a few (4 or 5) small schooling fish that will fit in with the rest of the tank - any suggestings?
A few more snails and hermits
(Rose) Bubble Tip Anemone
More assorted corals
Would like to get a clam later on
Would love a Flame Angel as "last fish" - Pretty expensive, but as long as I can get an established one that will not die off in a week or three, it's fine - I've been saving up for one of these for a long time.

I may have forgotten some of the ideas I had ...

Does anyone know where I can find some reputable bargains?

Any other comments and discussions are welcome.

Cheers for now.

My new bargain nano project

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 11:30pm CST by Dane

Hey guys,

I bought a 40L nano with a curved glass front for R69 this weekend, planning on moving my two clowns and two softies from my pico into here, thought I'd post a progress report starting from the setup :-) This will be a very basic setup, no sump, the sand bed is 6/7cm deep. I will just be housing two clowns (they are still very small) and softies.

Today I went down and got a bucket o' sand from my local beach - live sand, so got a bit cold and wet, but there are a few wormies in it for my efforts, not sure if they'll survive the temp change tho! :P 18 -> 26c is quite a jump! The water is from the Two Oceans aquarium, so LSW thats gone through one filter.

Anyway, letting the tank run for a while and will transfer my livestock once its a bit settled. I'm going to put my old substrate in sockings and hang them in the new tank once I've moved the fish, so all the bacteria, pods and worms can repopulate the new tank too. Also thinking of pumping a few litres of water from the old tank in too. I'm really happy with the sea sand substrate, nice and fine but settles so quickly!

I really need some decent rock or dead coral, anyone in CT central selling or know someone? Thanks :-) Any comments or advice on the setup would be appreciated. Bear in mind that this is intended to be a basic setup - NO skimmer or sump!

and its future inhabitants :-)

Extreme Algae growth

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 10:00pm CST by marinenoob

Hi,

I recently purchased two 39w t5 lights in addition to my two 80w t5's. These were working ok until i was told that my lighting schedule was wrong and changed it to the recommended ten hours.

Anyways since doing that Algae especially a brown hair algae has been spreading accross my sand bed and glass. on the bed it is very stringy and slimy, but is easily removed from the glas. however even once removed it is just back the following day. Also for the past three days i've has hard green and red algae forming on my glass. this is difficult to removed and have found only scraping it off with my finger works.

please help..

Menace Shrimp

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 9:59pm CST by Junz

Hi Guys,

i have recently purchased some corals from a fellow reefer and have noticed that i now have "snapping/popping" sounds coming from my tank. this has been going on for about a month now.

I suspect a pistol shrimp, but not really sure since i havent seen it. i hear at the most 2 /3 snaps and it goes quiet again. this didnt really bother me unit i woke up one morning to find both my cleaner shrimps dead....i have also seen that me YT has some of its top fins damaged.

so how do i get rid of this pest or catch it ? how can i tell if its a Pistol or Mantis?

Thanks
Junz

Mandarins trained to eat dry and/or frozen food

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 9:03pm CST by LuckyFish

Hi guys,

your help is needed. There is a question coming up regarding the breeding of mandarins.
All the mandarins I had, allways spawned. So eggs are not a problem.
To raise them, it is difficult, but possible. I am going to do that one day in any case, for some other reason than selling them.
My opinion was, it is not worth it, to raise mandarins from the commercial point of view. They take forever to grow to a saleable size. Around 8 months.

Now the questions:

How much are they (wild caught mandarins) going for in the shops?
How much would the hobbyist pay for a captive bred mandarin, which is trained to eat frozen and/or dry food?
A weaned mandarin will be an easy to keep species. Just like weaned seahorses.
If the retail price will be okay, so it would be worth for me, to breed them, I will do so. I would post the whole story of breeding and weaning, etc. in the breeding forum.
I also would build a feeding box, which can be easy build by yourself, to get a standard feeding box for captive bred mandarins. There are many options I saw on the internet, to keep all other fish away from the feeding box. Otherwise, the mandarin will still starve, because other fishes are faster and will eat his food.

All this is possible, many breeder did it many times with success.

Looking forward to all your answer and suggestions.

Thanks

Marcel

Maj's newbie tank

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 8:23pm CST by maj

Some random pics from my 1st tank
all taken with my fone's camera:whistling: please excuse the dirty glass

Creedon's 3 Foot(First Marine Tank)

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 8:21pm CST by Creedon

Hi all

Lps ID please. Hammer?

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 7:17pm CST by KevinR

Can some one please give me an id on this coral. I always thought it was a hammer coral but the more I look on the web the less I am convinced.

Sun Coral - Location and other care

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 5:21pm CST by Raven

Hi,
I've asked Jaco why my sun coral does not open in this thread:
My Non Photosynthetic System (NPS) - Page 8 - Marine Aquariums of South Africa

I've decided not to hijack his thread further, and start my own...

Ok most of my questions had been answered, but maybe I can get a bit more info and advice.

A bit more back ground information.
I've bought the sun coral last week Sunday from our local LFS.
And since I bought it, it had opened. I know that it will normally open after lights out.
Every night I've checked - but he stay close.

I took Jaco's advice to take it out, put it in a small container and try to feed it.
I must say, I did see SOME polyp extention, there were some movement. But it did not open to feed...

Last night I've tried to feed him in the tank again - same results. You can see that there are some extention - the polyps are forming a cone like point...

About 2-3 days ago I've moved it from it's original location so that it can get a bit more flow.
The new spot is exposing it a bit more to the lights...

Here is the Sun-Coral.
Picasa Web Albums - Nucleus.ZA

Here is the original location (in the cave): (marked with the red circle)
yes yes - I know that I have a aptaisia problem...

The new location:

Tank 100%

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 4:09pm CST by Cornelis

Back after a long time.:slayer: My tank is running very good for a year now. All I had to do is to feed the fish and corals, sit down and relax and enjoyed it and what a plessure and relaxing it is. Some times I mis the action and pleasure of bulding a nuwe one. I did go to Germany and on holiday for a month and what a plessure to come back and every thing was going well. :yeahdude:

What to Feed Goldies

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 3:18pm CST by chrisb

Could I please have some advice on what is the best thing to feed goldies as I caught yesterday and have been told that they are pretty difficult to feed.
Many Thanks

Please help - finrot

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 1:31pm CST by Hannesco

Please help, is this finrot or any other disease?

Brand new in this hobby

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 1:09pm CST by dion

Hi, I am Dion and is only starting with this hobby now. Live in the Northern Cape. Would like to get some ideas about building my own tank. Idea is to build quite a big tank and would therefor like to know about "pros & cons" on this, as well as areas/pitfalls to watch out for. Tips on where to puchase glass would also be appreciated. Is there a special type of glass, except for being thick, that one should use?:helpsmilie:

Any help/ideas would be appreciated.
Dion

[FS] Vortech MP40W Gen 2 Wetside and Controller for sale

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 10:28am CST by hotdog83

Hi guys,

I have a Vortech MP40w Wetside and Controller for sale. The dry side got a bit wet, so it doesn't work. The rest works 100% (tested it at Idol Marine). I have upgraded the software, so it has gen 2 software. The Controller is about 1.5 years old, and the wetside was replaced about 6 months ago, so practically brand new. A new dry side is about R1400, so you will be getting a complete, as-new Vortech for R1800+R1400=R3200 if you buy a new dry side. I am selling as I don't have the cash to fix it. I will also include the dry side (even though it doesn't work).

:thumbup:

[FS] 720 liter tank + stand in 12mm glass for sale

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 10:19am CST by hotdog83

Hi guys,

I have a 1.5mx60cmx80cm (lxwxh) tank for sale in 12mm glass. It also has a 1.1m high steel stand. Tank is in good condition, no visible scratches. The stand does have a bit of surface rust from standing outside, but nothing a new layer of paint can't fix. You might have to change the overflow to allow for more surface skimming though. There are 4 holes drilled in the bottom, 3 for going to sump, and one for the return. I will also include a standard 3ft sump. The based cracked in the past, but a double base has been added and the tank is 100% waterproof. To collect, you will have to bring at least 6 guys, as the 12mm glass is really heavy.

:thumbup:

[FS] JBJ 24G plus MH and Red Sea Skimmer for sale

Posted: February 7th, 2010, 10:07am CST by hotdog83

Hi Guys,

I have a JBJ 24G for sale. It includes a 150w MH with a 14000k Giesemann Globe (about 1.5years old). It also has a custom metal stand that the halide fits onto. Also included is a Red Sea Skimmer that fits nicely on the back. The return pump is also upgraded to a 1800l/h pump and the surface skimming adaptor is also included. Tank comes extra with standard 24G lid and heater. There are a few fine scratches on the front glass, but this can easily be buffed out. MH and stand not in photo.

So, a tank, skimmer, upgraded return pump and 150w mh with stand for R1500.

Cool. :thumbup:

Ideal Temp

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 1:06am CST by XV3

So what is the ideal temp for a reef tank, there are so many people saying and claiming various things, I came across this :

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/aqu...eftanktemp.htm

"With so many recommended temperatures, what is the best temperature for your reef tank? Perhaps the best way to make a decision is to look at what the temperatures were when your corals were in the wild. If you look at Coral Reef Regions in the World, you will see where corals grow in the wild. If you compare this to the indicated temperatures in NOAA's Sea Surface Temperatures, you will see that a vast majority of coral reefs are found where water temperatures are between 80°F and 89°F."

And then onto this

http://www.windows.ucar.edu/tour/lin....html&edu=high

And then todays temps,

So I think that will answer some of the questions but I think we should probably get down to where most of SA's corals come from exactly ?, Hope there will be some experienced importers or sellers here that could shed some light on that ?:please:

A LNS tank's evolution

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 12:21am CST by Neil H

SPS growt - zeovit.com

i have been looking for an average joe soap's LNS tank with regular pics of its evolution and i think i have finally found one.....

the colors of this tank are simply amazing, the growth is great....

the thread is only 4 pages long and it really is worth the look if you are interested in this sort of system !

Peppermint Shrimp

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 11:50pm CST by Tony Ingram

Hi again.

I was just wondering where I could find a Peppermint Shrimp like yesterday??
thanks guys

Frags wanted ...

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 8:13pm CST by ZeroCool

Hi there, i am looking for frags (Lps Corals and softies) for my nano.

If anyone have spare or wanting to sell, get into contact with me.

thanks.

TS2 Problem and Solution

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 5:23pm CST by XV3

Well, I had a problem with the TS2 skimmer, not skimming etc etc :(, then the guys at reefkeeping helped me out, thank you very much once again guys, which was discussed here

And for some time now I have been doing research and reading about skimmers, I then decided to start up a new tank after a year of headbanging and confusion and then finally getting somewhere, so this is the solution I came with and hopefully we can assist others in their search too for a low cost efficient skimmer.

I know that there are really good skimmers out there but from what I've read and saw people just can't afford the good things as times are tight, so we thought we'd bring you this.

Well, thought it's time now for this, my new SK-2 Skimmer just landed yesterday, got confirmation this morning that the shipment is clear, please let me know if any of you guys had experience in these or know of them, I will be setting up a new tank in about 3 weeks and that is where I will use this,these are brand new in design and was launched December last year from what I understand, I could be wrong though.

SK-2

Footprint: 33 * 20 CM
• Pump(included): SHARK 2.0 (2000 l/ph)
• Pump power consumption: 22 Watts
• Air Intake: 720 LPH
• Chamber Diameter: 15 CM
• Height: 58 CM
• Outlet size: 1 Quick-Precise adjusting valve

SK-3

Footprint: 38 *29 CM
• Pump(included): SHARK 3.0
• Pump power consumption: 27 Watts
• Air Intake: 1020 LPH
• Chamber Diameter: 20 CM
• Height: 58 CM
• Outlet size: 1-1/2 Quick-Precise adjusting valve

This was their test module they had on display at the show:

[www.youtube.com]

The design is all the same, SK-3 just bigger as you can see, Plus points are that power consumption is nice and low even in the Shark 3 pump, 27 watts for 3000 l/h is not bad I think, also there are rubber foots which gives it a nice quiet operation, waste dispenser of which I will also have waste collectors for those that want don't always have time to clean all the time.

Waste Collector

•Footprint:15CM
•Chamber Diameter:11CM
•Height:37CM
•Capacity:1.5L

And then also we will be adding this Efficient type calcium reactor, I am awaiting specs on it, will post as soon as I have them

Includes PH probe holder for PH monitor

• Easy removal of pump with union coupling for maintenance

• Efficient type Calcium Reactors employ a unique method for recycle Co2 back through the pump. This makes more efficient use of the Co2 used to lower the pH in the reactor

• Co2 mix chamber with water pump intake

• Over height: 85 CM
• reaction tube diamter: 20 CM
• Chamber capacity: 16 L

my anemone has babys

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 4:54pm CST by omer

my anemone has multiplied she has 5 new baby's.

Breeding Clarkii Clownfish

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 4:31pm CST by viper357

Clownfish are probably the easiest marine fish to breed and successfully rear to adulthood.

The same principles should apply to most Clowns and Damselfish who do not scatter their eggs. If you succeed in rearing other species of this Family, I would be most interested in learning from your experience.

Sexing the fish:

Actually, that's the easiest part--just take any two fish, and give them enough time.. Clownfish are all born as males, believe it or not. Then, the largest (and most dominant) of any group undergoes a sex change, and becomes the female. The second largest fish usually becomes the breeding male, and all the other fish remain "sexless" drones. Should the breeding female die or be removed, the breeding male will change to a female, and the next fish in the pecking order will become the breeding male.

So, given enough time any two fish could become a pair, if they're agreeable. It does help to start off with young fish, though. Also, do try to buy your fish from different sources, if possible, to minimize inbreeding.

Breeding tank:

Clowns will spawn in a community tank if they feel secure, and if the water parameters, temperature etc. is to their liking. Try not to have the tank densely stocked, though. If you could keep the breeding pair in a tank of their own it would be even better. They don't need a very large tank, ~200 liters (55 US gal.) is quite sufficient. My tank's water temperature was between 79°F - 82°F (26°C - 28°C), and the nitrates was undetectable. Lighting is not critical, but day and night cycles should be regular.

Spawning:

Some live rock, or other hard, rocky substance with a vertical face is needed for the spawning site. My fish spawned on a rock which was very close to their anemone. All subsequent spawning were on the very same rock. I would recommend that you leave their chosen rock undisturbed after their initial spawning.
When the fish are ready to spawn (within a few days), they will start to clean their chosen rock by vigorously biting it. They also become very aggressive, and will attack other inhabitants. The actual spawning takes place in the afternoon, or early evening, and can last for an hour, or even more. The female swims very slowly over the cleaned area, depositing the eggs. The male then follows close behind, and fertilize the eggs.

Once the spawning is complete (within 1-2 hours), the male assumes responsibility for attending them, while the female acts as protector of the eggs and "supervise" her male. He will continuously fan the eggs with his fins, and even bite at them - not to eat them, but to remove detritus, or perhaps a dead or rotten egg. The eggs should be left in their care, and not removed, unless they are known to be egg-eaters from prior experience.

Attachment 622 Attachment 623 Attachment 624 Attachment 625
Attachment 626 Attachment 627 Attachment 628 Attachment 629

Hatching:

According to the experts, the eggs take from 6 to 15 days to hatch, depending on the temperature. My eggs hatched as regular as clockwork on the evening of the seventh day. During the last day, the eggs change from a reddish brown to a silvery colour. This is a positive indication that the eggs are due to hatch that evening.

All the power heads and external filters should be stopped the evening of the hatching. Just before the last light goes out, one should also stop the sump return pump. After lights-out, one should check on the tank every 15 minutes or so, using a red filter in front of a torch. About 1-2 hours after total darkness, the eggs hatch, all within a few minutes of each other. At this stage, one should switch on a dim exterior light, just to make it easier to work in the tank. Then, use a bright torch (without filter), and shine the light into the tank at a place convenient to catching the fry. All the hatched fry will immediately start to swim towards the light, and congregate in great masses just below the water surface. It's then a simple thing to scoop them up into a shallow bowl (or even a large soup ladle). The fry should then be transferred to the rearing tank, and gently released by immersing the bowl below the water surface. Care should be taken to ensure as little current and turbulence as possible while doing this, as the newly hatched fry are very delicate.

The first few days:

In nature, the fry would swim to a depth of a several meters below the surface. Being confined to a much shallower tank, they still try to swim away from the light, and will end up "standing" on their heads on the bottom of the tank.. This stress will cause them to die within the first day or two. The rearing tank should thus be kept in total darkness for the first 24-36 hours. Thereafter, the light intensity should be GRADUALLY increased over a period of four to six days, ending with the full power of one 20-30W NO fluorescent lamp. This can be achieved by covering the tank's top with a cover glass, on which one places two portions of dark cardboard. After the initial 36 hour's darkness, one can move the cardboard sections slightly away from each other, thus increasing the "light gap". During this period, the fry should remain free-swimming in the center of the tank. Any tendency to "head stand" should be enough indication that the light intensity is too high.

Attachment 631 Attachment 632 Attachment 633

The Rearing Tank

The rearing tank should ideally be a 7-10 gallon (20-40 liter) tank. The bottom and sides should be painted a dull black, or covered with tight fitting matt black cardboard sheets. (In nature, the light only shines from above, and the fry orientate themselves accordingly. Even the slightest bit of light shining through a side panel will cause the fry to cluster around it, trying to swim through the glass. In doing this, they miss out on food, and invariably die). There should be no substrate, and the heater's pilot light should also be covered (or painted over), else the fry will cluster around the heater..

There should be no filtration in the tank until the fry are at least 3 weeks old. Water movement in the tank should be accomplished by one or two airlines, discharging air from the bottom. During the first 3-4 days air should be pumped through the lines without using an air stone, as the small bubbles tend to "capture" the fry, and cause them to float on the water's surface. This is a sure way to kill them.

Just allow VERY GENTLE aeration, like one or two bubbles per second !!

Water quality, and Filtration

To minimize the growth of bacteria, the rearing tank should be half filled with water from the tank containing the eggs only a few hours before the eggs hatch (the introduction of the fry usually fills the tank completely, with water from the transfer bowl). Of course, the water temperature in both tanks should be identical at the time of transfer.

After 24 hours, one should siphon off about 10% of the water, and replace it with "fresh" water from the main tank. Thereafter, do 10% partial water changes every 12 hours for the first 12 days, and thereafter every 24 hours. During this water change, one should "vacuum" the tank's bottom to suck up any detritus.

Feeding the babies

During the first 24-36 hours the fry do not eat, but live off their yolk sacs. After this time, they should be fed Rotifers three to four times per day. The initial rotifer density should be quite high--it's been recommended to have one rotifer every 1.5 times the length of the fry (meaning that the fry would only have to swim 1.5 body lengths before finding food. After 8-10 days one should start to feed newly hatched Brine Shrimp, and feed this for the next two weeks, while slowly introducing pulverized flake food. After that, you only need to find good homes for your babies.

Cultivating the baby food:

Your first brood of clownfish will probably catch you unprepared, and the chances are good that all the babies will starve within the first 2-3 days. Fortunately, Clowns are prolific breeders, and you can prepare for a successful second batch by starting to cultivate Rotifers, (and the Green-water food for the Rotifers) as soon as the first spawning becomes imminent.

Although Rotifer starter colonies are available commercially in the USA, this is not the case in the rest of the World. I was fortunate to obtain some from the research aquarium of the department of Sea Fisheries, in Cape Town. You will probably find that all universities and aquatic research institutes breed Rotifers, and will be glad to give you some.

Rotifers eat single celled algae, such as Nannochloropsis, Tetraselmis and Chlorella, and without a sufficient supply, you won't have any Rotifers, and that means your babies will starve. Fortunately, starter cultures of these algae can also be obtained from the same source as the Rotifers.

Baby Brine Shrimp (Artemia sp.) culturing should start two days after the babies have hatched. This should give you your first baby Artemia after ~48 hours, just in time for the baby Clowns' gradual weaning to this food type, which should start on the fifth day after hatching.

The following links should take you to sites with much more information than I can give on this subject - I regularly make use of this information myself

Artemia : this article on Ozreefs explains the setting-up of a Brine Shrimp hatchery

Brine Shrimp Direct's Home Page : This site, though commercial, contains good information on rearing Brine Shrimp.

Article © Hennie Landman
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Urgent help needed Green Clown Goby and Lawnmower Blenny

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 4:28pm CST by brandonb

Hi

Finally got a Green Clown Goby today ....

long story short the Goby hid right after I put him in... was not worried about one hour later I decided to try feeding my tank the Omega One Flakes I bought today (thanks Lanzo)

Suddenly the goby shot out the LR to eat the flakes ... yeah!!! he eats ...but my happiness was shortlived... the lawnmower blenny started attacking him !!!! The lawnmower is small (5cm) compared to the normal ones I have seen but still a giant to my baby green clown goby(2cm)...

Will he stop soon or is he gonna kill my goby ?

The lawnmower has been acting weird lately he bites me when I put my hand in the tank to do maintenance/feeding etc....

The problem is I dont have a sump and cant move him to my dads tank since he already has a lawnmower ... Im sick of this shit...he better start getting along or I will have no choice but to move him to my fathers tank where he will get some of his own medicine from a 6 line and the other lawnmower...

Please help

Brandon

what do you think of this pic??? full crit please thanks

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 3:23pm CST by vatso

Starting With Marines

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 3:12pm CST by Reef Maniac

So, you want to start a Marine tank.

A word of warning: starting a marine tank cause a serious change in human behavioral patterns - looking dreamy eyed at your tank for hours on end; phoning your loved ones (or anyone!) in the middle of the night to tell them about a new polyp, worm, glowing thingy about 1mm long, ... which you have just discovered; not buying new clothes, furniture etc. because your tank REALLY needs that new light, filter, ROCK, etc.... Oh well, maybe you won't get hooked so badly.

Firstly, get some advice.

Most peoples main source of advice is the Local Fish Store (LFS). Pet shops, LFS's, call them what you like, these shops all exist primarily to make money. If they do, they are successful, and the owners can live in comfort (or even grow rich ??). If they don't make money, they go bankrupt. They will usually try to sell you the most expensive (often quite useless), items, preferably something which you will have to upgrade later (another sale for them...). And this could happen with some of the "better" shops - the really "bad" shops will also sell you incompatible livestock, or diseased fish, or even fish caught with poisons, knowing that they will die after a few days. They can then blame it on you (bad water quality, wrong filter..."you also need this UV sterilizer to reduce disease..." and because you are not sure yourself, you inevitably buy more equipment (usually also useless). Get the picture..?? So BUYER BEWARE!
People on Internet discussion groups do not have any financial gain by what they recommend, and are usually impartial, but there is another problem lurking - Pride. "I use skimmer xxx, or pump zzz, this is the best, use it!" "Oh, I've kept 10 types of Angels, and 4 types of Damsels in a 50 gallon tank for the past 5 years, Its EASY - you can do it too..." or even worse, "Oh, I am very successful with keeping anemones. They are easy to keep, I've had 5 in the last year..."
Advice in books is usually outdated. Details on the animals and plants tend to stay relevant, but "technical" issues such as filters, skimming, lighting, etc. tend to change rapidly, as new equipment and techniques are developed. So, before you decide on anything technical, query what the books say! Whilst gathering your information, you must THINK. Is it logical, does it agree with what other books say, or with the views of "experts"? You must also get as many recommendations as you can, and then try to decide what is right FOR YOUR PARTICULAR SITUATION. Even some of the most notable "experts" on the net, some even with PhD's, can't agree on "what is right" all the time. They do tend to agree on the basics, though, so if you get some "way off" advice, you should be wary.

Deciding on the TYPE of set-up

Before purchasing ANY equipment, you should decide on what type of environment (or set-up) you want. Some may argue that a fish only tank is easier to keep, as fishes can withstand a greater degree of pollution and water quality fluctuations. A "reef" tank though slightly more difficult, is much more interesting, and gives one a greater sense of achievement and satisfaction. Many people start off with a FO (fish only), only to upgrade to a reef tank later. This invariably results in some equipment having to be replaced, because they did not buy "Reef quality" originally. I would like to suggest that you buy your equipment with a reef tank in mind, even though you may initially plan to keep only fish. Is "fish only" easier to keep than "Reef"?

The general statement that "a Fish Only system is easier to keep" (or that "inverts are a lot harder to keep") is very misleading, and totally unfair to novice marine aquarists. Let me explain:

Keeping "easy" inverts, such as some species of soft corals, cleaner shrimps, Featherduster worms, etc. are actually easier than keeping fish. They cause much less pollution, and therefore place less of a bio load on the system, which maker filtration a lot less critical. They don't get diseases such as "Ich", and many do not need much feeding either. You do need a minimum amount of light in order to keep corals and other photosynthetic animals. Fortunately the easier "low light" softies, such as brown or green Star Polyps (Pachyclavularia and Briareum spp.), Mushroom corals (Sarcophyton sp.) and Devils Hand or Finger Leather corals can be kept under normal fluorescent lights - though you would need quite a few tubes....
The "difficult" part of keeping a reef tank is when you also want lots of fish in it. This just does not work very well, and is not to be recommended to newbies. Rather start off with a "marginal reef" tank, with lots of live rock, a deep live sand bed substrate (both very important elements of your filtration, as well as being interesting in their own right), some "easy" soft corals, some tube worms, etc. and only a few reef compatible fish.

Do your research first, though. Learn as much as you can about the different filtration methods, compatibility of livestock, food and feeding, and everything else you can pick up... Then, carefully plan your set-up, and GO SLOWLY. In this hobby there is a saying:

IN A REEF AQUARIUM, ONLY BAD THINGS HAPPEN QUICKLY.

If you stock your aquarium before it has cycled properly, you will probably kill your animals. If you stock to rapidly, your tank will have another ammonia/nitrite spike, again probably killing your animals. At best, you will have problem algae, and sick fish. Remember that this is a long-term hobby. It is not uncommon for a tank to only stabilise properly after 6 months. Your corals can outlive you, and even the most common fish can live longer than 20 years, if you do your bit....

Essential Equipment

Equipment does not *have* to be very expensive, but it *usually* ends up costing a great deal more than you originally had in mind. Tank size and Shape:
Although one could successfully keep very small marine tanks, this is a specialised field, and is not the ideal for a beginner.

Deeper tanks look more natural. They do require more intense lighting, though. They should also only have the same bio-load as a regular depth tank of the same surface area.
A larger tank will be more stable, and forgiving if something goes wrong. A small fish dying in a mature 100-gallon tank would probably not have any effect on the water quality. That same dead fish would most likely cause an ammonia spike, algae bloom and possibly further die off if it was left in a 20 gallon tank.
Your fish will be less stressed in a larger tank (if you don't over-stock), as there is more room to evade aggressors, and to allow each fish to have it's own territory.
It is also easier IMHO to use a surge device (wave-maker) in a larger tank. A 20 litre surge discharged into a 200 litre tank will cause a "tidal wave" to overflow the top. In a 500-litre tank the effect will be less than half, and in a 1000 litre tank it would probably not even cause a ripple.
A pre-drilled tank with an "overflow" weir is much better than a conventional tank with a siphon "overflow" to the sump. It allows for a much larger water flow, and is much safer to use, as there is no siphon that can "break" and cause the tank to overflow and/or the sump to run dry.

The disadvantages of a larger tank are mostly financial:

It would cost a lot more to fill the tank, and to do partial water changes
One would require substantially more live rock, and sand, to achieve a decent looking, and properly filtered tank. As live rock and sand are amongst the most expensive purchases, a larger tank would increase the total cost most dramatically.
One would obviously want more corals, etc. This would be added to over time, so work on a constant, long-term drain on the wallet.
Practically, it's more difficult to reach all the "spots" in a large tank when you're doing maintenance and cleaning.
The greater amount of living creatures, and costly live rock, etc. increases the financial risk of losing a major investment if there is a long-term power blackout, the tank cracks, an outbreak of disease, or other disaster. This would cause you to consider the purchase of "back up" equipment, such as a power generator if you want to sleep well at nights.

Lighting

This will depend on the type of set-up:

"Fish Only" (FO) tank only needs enough light to view the fish comfortably.
If you use "Live Rock" (FOWLR) in your tank, then you should not have less than 2.5-3.0 W/gal (more is better).
"Soft" corals such as star polyps and mushrooms require about 3-4 W/gal (again, more would be better).
Hard corals, clams and anemones need a minimum of 6-8 W/gal, depending on the water depth.
Normal Output (NO) fluorescent lights are mostly used on FO or FOWLR systems, but can be used quite successfully on Reef tanks as well, provided one has the space to accommodate all the tubes. As an example, I have kept a Carpet Anemone in my marginal reef tank for more than 8 months, using 8 x 40W NO tubes on my 55 gal. tank. (I have since upgraded to Metal Halides)
PC (Power Compact) fluorescent lamps are nearly as bright as Metal Halides, and are quite suitable to keep all types of marine animals in all but the deepest tanks. They are quite expensive, though, and not always obtainable.
VHO (Very High Output) fluorescent lamps are "old technology", and are being superseded by the PC's or MH's.
MH (Metal Halide) lamps are the brightest lamps available, and nearly equal the intensity of sunlight. They are probably the most suited type of lighting for deep tanks, and for "Reef" type set-ups with light loving animals such as SPS corals, clams and anemones.

The light "Colour temperature" is also very important. Water "absorbs" the longer wavelength light (the red, orange and yellow colour) at a shallower depth than the shorter wavelength light (green, blue and violet). If one descended from the surface of the ocean, the red light would disappear first, and the last light remaining at depth would be violet.

Sunlight at the waters surface has a colour temperature of 6 500K. I don't have exact figures, but I believe that the 10 000K light spectrum approximate a depth of around 10m (33') below the surface, and the "bluer" 20 000K spectrum is equivalent of light at a depth of about 20m (66').

Because *most* corals live closer to the surface, 10 000K light would actually be more natural for them than 20 000K light. If one were to set up a "deep water" tank, containing species living at greater depth than that of a "normal" shallow reef, one would be better off to use the 20 000K lamps.

The following links may explain this in more detail:

Reef Tank Lighting
Lighting
Photosynthesis/Irradiance (P/I) Curves and Why They Are Important to ReefKeepers

Filtration:

Skimmer - This removes biological waste before it can decompose into ammonia, etc, and thus lightens the load on the bio-filter. Do not skimp on the skimmer - buy the best you can afford. It is perhaps the single most important item you will buy, so rather get one rated at twice your capacity than get one which cannot cope.
In a lightly stocked tank live rock and/or live sand "biological" filtration is all that is required (apart from the skimmer, that is).
In a more heavily populated "fish only" tank, a Wet/Dry trickle filter is probably the best biological filter, though it will lead to a higher nitrate level than live rock filtration.
Canister filters are good "mechanical" filters, but they tend to produce an excess of nitrates in the tank.
Under-gravel filters should be avoided where possible, as they also produce unacceptably high nitrate levels.
A sump get the largest practical tank, plastic container, etc, which will fit below your tank (or anywhere else thats convenient). A sump is not really essential, but it does increase the total water volume, and allows one to keep all the ugly equipment (such as heaters, chiller, skimmer, and just about anything else) out of the tank. It is also a great place to make a refugium, and it allows for a more efficient gas exchange due to the tumbling action of the water flowing down into it.

Fresh-water Filters

It is very important to use pure, unpolluted fresh water to replace evaporated water, and to make the salt-water used for partial water exchanges. Using ordinary tap water invariably leads to algae outbreaks.
RO (Reverse Osmoses) filters are the cheapest in the long run, and they remove 95% (or more) of the contaminants from the water.
DI (De-Ionisation) filters become exhausted quite soon, and need frequent replacement. This makes this type of filtration quite expensive. DI units typically remove 99% of all contaminants while "fresh".
One can combine the two, first using RO and then DI. This results in the purest water, but IMO is not really necessary.
One could also use a "hand held" water purifier, such as Nitragon, or a household unit such as the Brita filter. These units are actually small DI filters, and work quite well while fresh. Because of their small capacities they are quite expensive, though.

Other equipment:

Heaters: Work on using about 2W/gal to raise the tank temperature 5 degrees F above the room temperature. (Thus for a 55 gal. tank you would need ~ 300W to raise the temperature to ~ 75 F if the surrounding temperature is ~ 60 F). It is better to use two or three smaller heaters than one large one. If a smaller heater fails on, it is unlikely to boil your tank, and if it fails off the other heater can still supply some heat until you (hopefully) discover the problem.
Air pumps: This is not normally needed if you have adequate circulation. It is good to have a standby unit for an emergency, though. I also use mine to aerate freshly made salt water used for partial water exchange.
Thermometer: Get an accurate glass or electronic one - those little "stick on" types are not accurate.
Hydrometer: These are notoriously inaccurate. Get a good glass type, and make sure you know for which temperature it is calibrated.
Pumps Good water circulation is essential. Buy a good quality return pump (if youre using a sump), and one or two additional power heads. . A "surge" device or "wavemaker" is a good addition, but is not essential.
Live rock - get about 20% - 40% of the tank's volume of live rock. This is essential for long term water stability (read: low nitrate level).
Sea salt There are many makes of salt, and not all of them are good. Read the package label, and ask questions on the Net before you buy it. You will not only need salt for the initial makeup, but also for regular partial water changes (about 10%-20% of water volume every 2-4 weeks, depending on stocking level, etc).
"Incidentals" You will need some test kits, additives such as buffer and calcium, a fish net, some containers to mix your water

Tank "Cycling"

To be honest, whenever I hear this term, I envisage this large, all glass tank, riding around on a bicycle ..

The term "cycling" is actually a bit of a misnomer, IMHO. In our hobby, it usually refers to a state where the aerobic component of the filtration system has "matured" to such an extent that there are enough aerobic bacteria present in the system to convert the ammonia/um generated by the tank's bio-load into nitrite, and the further conversion of the nitrite into nitrate. In actual fact, this only completes of the first phase of the actual nitrogen cycle.

Until a few years ago, that was as far as the process could go, resulting in a slowly increasing level of nitrate, which could only be reduced by partial water changes. Thanks to the "discovery" of live rock, and later of live sand, the "'cycle" can now be completed by anoxic bacteria living in these substances, further converting the nitrate into inert nitrogen gas.
In hobbyists terms, a new system is considered to be "cycling" when there are still detectable levels of ammonia/um and/or nitrite in the water. A system is considered to have "cycled" when these levels drop to zero, and the nitrate level starts to increase.

The important thing to remember is that a tank does not "cycle" only once. The system will reach equilibrium, where there is enough aerobic bacteria living in the filters to maintain an undetectable level of ammonia and nitrite with a given bio-load. Any increase in the bio-load, such as when a new fish is added to the tank, will upset this equilibrium, by "flooding" the system with more ammonia/um than the bacteria can digest. Obviously, with more "food" available for these bacteria, they will multiply (assuming that food was the limiting factor), and in time the system will reach a new equilibrium, able to handle this increased bio-load. This does take time, though, and in the meantime the increased level of ammonia and/or nitrite could be poisoning all the fish.

How to "Cycle" a new tank.

In order to "cycle" a new set-up, one must introduce a source of ammonia/um. In the past, this was usually done by adding some hardy fish (usually Damsels) to the new tank. Although this works very well in a bare tank (with outside filtration), its not recommended for two reasons:

It is cruel to keep any fish, no matter how "hardy" in water containing near toxic levels of pollutants.
Damsels are very aggressive, and once the tank has "cycled", they consider the whole tank as their exclusive territory. They will attack, and possibly kill, any new fish being introduced to the tank. To make matters worse, the rock in a typical reef tank makes it hard, if not totally impossible, to catch them when you eventually decide to replace them.

I would start the cycling by initially only adding the sand. Let it settle for 2-3 days, with all the circulation going. Then, add one or two pieces of base quality live rock, and one or two dead prawns or cocktail shrimps (the food type, not a dead one from a LFS - that could be carrying any number of diseases!). At this time, start testing the water for ammonia daily. You should notice an increase in the reading, and after a few days, the reading should stabilise, and then slowly start to drop (this could take 1-2 weeks). At that stage, start testing for nitrite as well, and keep on testing for ammonia. You should now notice an increase in nitrites, and a decrease of ammonia. After another week or so, the ammonia level should be fairly low, and the nitrite level should have reached it's peak.

Once the nitrite level has also started to drop, you can add the rest of the base quality live rock, and once both the ammonia and nitrite levels have become unreadable low, you can then add the good quality live rock (containing many interesting inverts). This could cause another ammonia & nitrite "spike", although it will be much smaller than the first. This is not critical if youre patient - just let the tank settle for another month or two before adding fish. This should give the macro algae and small critters on the LR time to recover, and to multiply to sustainable levels in the LR, and to migrate into the sand. During this time, you should also add some live sand, and/or some live sand "starter kits" and "reef janitors". Also, don't be concerned with the initial algae growths - it's quite normal to have some diatom, cyano, and hair algae growing as the maturation progresses.

"Cycling" a new system with uncured live rock.

Introduce the LR after the tank's been up about a week, and use it to cycle the tank. Wait at least two months before introducing the first fish.

Advantages:

You don't stress (or kill) any fish, and do not have to add fish that you will have to remove at a later stage.
You don't need to buy fully cured LR. In fact, the cheaper, uncured LR causes a better cycle, and usually have more diverse life forms in/on them.
You can introduce all the rock at once, do your "rockscaping", and have the tank completely set up when introducing the first fish.
You will have amazing growth of whatever comes on the LR - with no fish to eat them, you will get all kinds of macro algae, featherduster worms, soft polyps, even some corals, growing.
You will also enable the "small life", such as copepods and amphipods, to establish and multiply to such an extent that they should survive predation by your fish. Obviously, if you only have 2 or 3 of a specie to start off with, and they're eaten by a fish on the very first day, none will multiply after that.

Disadvantages:

You will have to wait before you introduce any fish.
Because the initial bio load was smaller, you will have to add your fish at a much slower tempo to avoid causing another ammonia/nitrite spike.
You might have some algae growing on the LR. This is usually not a problem, though, as you start off with a nutrient poor set-up, which can be easily maintained, as there are no fish to feed. Also, the growing macro algae compete for nutrients, thereby restricting the growth of nuisance algae.

Deep Live Sand Bed filtration:

A general rule of thumb is to have a 4" layer of fine, graded sand, although the actual thickness would depend on the size of the sand. The finer the sand, the less water flow is possible between the particles, and the thinner the layer needed to achieve an anoxic zone in the sand. IMHO the very small size sand, though "perfect" for nitrate reduction, is not what occurs naturally, and does not allow hiding places for many small critters. My sand bed is made up of ~75% natural sea sand (shell grit and silicon sand, ranging from ~0.5mm to ~ 6mm in size)) and ~25% crushed coral sand (approximately 1-2mm in diameter). I have found that the areas containing the coarser particles have a greater abundance of small critters.

Here are some links to interesting articles (hope they still work...):

[sites.netscape.net]
Reefs.org: Where Reefkeeping Begins on the Internet - View Document
reefkeepers.org
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Reefs.org: Where Reefkeeping Begins on the Internet - Error Message
The how and why of Deep Sand Beds
The Quantitative Comparison of Two Nutrient Removal Systems

Using Additives:

It's quite human to want to add all kinds of things to help our creatures. The manufacturers and shops know this, and make a lot of money out of this "weakness". Unfortunately, many of these "snake oils" are just expensive water (perhaps coloured). Others do add trace elements, but an excess of many of these elements are actually detrimental to your tank (amongst other things, it tends to make cyano and hair algae grow...).

Under normal circumstances, one should only add buffer (to keep the alkalinity up), and a calcium supplement if/when there are hard corals (LPS or SPS) or other calcium using life forms in the tank. Either use one of the "balanced" two-bottle supplements, or add Kalkwasser. If you do not have many calcium absorbing animals (such as corals), then you probably don't need to add calcium supplements. You then also don't need those high calcium levels normally quoted for a reef tank.
Note that the long-term addition of calcium chloride will result in a gradual increase of the chloride content of the water. This will eventually result in your water's chemistry being quite different from that of natural seawater, which is not good at all. Apart from this, I would not add any supplements unless I could test for it, and found a deficiency, as regular partial water changes would replenish the trace elements used up by the inhabitants.

I realize that I've only skimmed the surface of starting with this great hobby (pun intended), but I hope that this article can be of some use to someone out there

Article © Hennie Landman

RO to Tank

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 3:03pm CST by Ross

hey Guys

Ordered 500 liters of RO today for my tank.... didn't show and this is from Idol.
In today's economy, you would think ppl wanted to keep business.

Anyway, so now I am looking for RO, thinking what is the best way to get my RO unit connected to the hose pipe... any ideas?

Ta,

Ross :(

Week-end Specials

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 11:50am CST by Naiema

WeeK-end Specials @ Sams Aquarium: FijinPrememium &Tonga Branch-R155/kg, Damsels&Chromis-R49, PSB Bacteria less 20%. Ph 0217122534/0826368990

Panda Shrimps

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 10:24am CST by sean_koekemoer

epa02018263 A panda shrimp pictured at ABF leisure and shopping fair in Hanover, Germany, 05 February 2010. Some of the panda shrimps, usually sold at a price around 1,000 euro, is auctioned in favour of the Haiti earthquake victims within the scope of an international shrimp championships on 06 and 07 February. Some 900 exhibitors from 19 countries showcase their products of gardening, sports, caravaning and travel at the ABF runnning until 07 February. EPA/HOLGER HOLLEMANN

Fotoglif - f - Panda shrimp - One source, thousands of new photos a day, the worlds top photographers and agencies, free to view & free to use

Urgent help needed Scopas tang

Posted: February 6th, 2010, 8:27am CST by Annoying

Hey

I have aproblem with my scopas I got bout 3 months ago and for the first week it didn't eat then it started to eat like a pig. About 2 weeks ago I added a cb and since I've added the cb the scopas stopped eating. The cb is eating great also all the other fish. No watar params has changed dramaticly and I thaught it could have been stress because the scopas was not at all happy that the cb was introduced. I sumped the scopas to get him alone and try to feed him but he is still not eating and he is extremely thin. He has no white spots visible and as far as I can see no infection. He does have a thorn fin that I've noticed 2 day ago. Please any help could this still be stress of the cb or is it worms or what.

4ft tank with 3ft sump

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 7:04am CST by Gersh

howzit guys im back been away from keeping a tank since last year august just had a baby n all so no time i sold all the fish as it was a fish with live rock only tank,so now the gogga bite me again n i have been itching to start the tank again but $$$ is abit tight with a mouth to feed now,so lol no pics will be uploaded now as i will be buying new equipment monthly.

the planned tank will be my 1.2mx450x450 and a standard 3ft tank to be converted to a sump with three compartments 1st chamber for skimmer,2x250W heaters and pump for algea scrubber which will be above the 2nd chamber(DSB) then 3rd chamber for return.

i would like it to be a softie reef with a few fish maybe 3 chromis ,1 midas blenny, 1 false percula clown,1 regal tang(might be pushing it a bit with the regal)also a cleaner wrasser if i can have the regal ,when the tank was previously set up the tank was abit stocked with 4 chromis,1 false percula clown,1 maroon clown,1 male goldie,2 yellow tail n domino damsels(never again will i own a damsel nasty buggers),1 midas blenny and 1 blue streak goby.

had about 10 hermits, 5 snails, one long spined urchin(also never again unless its a very small 1 as he moved my rocks at his leisure), 2 cleaner shrimp.

and then i had no sump was using Jebo skimmer but hooked it up to a double outlet air pump to the power head venturi and it skimmed a dark skimmate had 1 Seio cant remeber the model and flowrate have to still scratch the hardware out. and lol just the normal powerhead that u use in freshwater 1500lph and i had no coral because i had impropper lighting and flow in the tank.

the tank ran for 8months with no losses or any nasty algea issue but that was because i hit the water changes weekly.

Right so now i want to go softie reef and not cut corners like previously and use unsuitable equipment.

so now i am investing in a:
TS1 Reeftek skimmer
2 x sunsun 3000lph pumps
1 x 150w metal halide
4 x t5 54w (2 blue 2 actinic)
this i will be buying over the next few months.

equipment i have already
2000lph powerhead for return to DT
Seio Prop530 2000lph
sunsun 3000lph
2 x 250w heaters (prefer usin two heaters then one.)
35kg liverock (although pretty dead as i cleaned out the 4ft when i sold the fish i packed the 3ft full with the rock with water from the 4ft but never added heater or pump and last week when i eventually decided to start up my baby the live rock was covered in black slimy algea obviously from all the die off etc.) what i want to know is should i just start curing the rock or should i wash the first and then when my tank is eventually filled with water add them all in one go or say 3kg at a time and seed with healthy 5kg rock again?

so please go forward and comment on my stocking list & my planned equipment etc please note that the equipment i planned is what can fit my budget. so like even thou i would love the TS2 skimmer i jus cannot afford that right now plus the better half has already complained about my current budget i set on it LOL even thou she loves the hobby aswell.:whistling:

also my 4ft is not drilled who in JHB can do this for me and at what cost ?im in the west rand and also do the sump and scrubber for me as i want the scrubber glass like the one i saw on the forum under filtration BTW im hopeless with DIY.:lol:

P.S SORRY FOR THE SA.:biggrin::yeahdude:

Deep Sand Beds (DSB)

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 6:16am CST by Reef Maniac

Deep Sand Bed (DSB)

The correct term should actually be a Deep Live Sand Bed (DLSB), because the sand bed can only operate properly if it is populated with appropriate sand-living organisms. But I'm jumping ahead of myself, so lets start at the beginning...

Aim of a DLSB

The aim of all filtration systems is to reduce potentially toxic biological waste produced by our tank inhabitants to less harmful, or even better - totally non-toxic, products. In our tanks the waste from our fish and corals, and uneaten food, is quickly converted to ammonia/ammonium (depending on pH), which is highly toxic even in very low concentration. Aerobic (oxygen loving) bacteria in the tank can fortunately convert this ammonium into less toxic nitrite, which other aerobic bacteria then further converts into nitrate. Although nitrate is not very toxic for fish, it does have the potential to cause massive algae blooms, and is still rather toxic to corals and other invertebrates. Unfortunately, this nitrate can only be further broken down by anaerobic bacteria, which only live in areas where the oxygen level is rather low (but not totally absent...).

Both the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria need two things in order to multiply - enough food (the waste products) and enough suitable substrate "living space" (the rock or sand). In our natural filtration systems, we use live rock and/or live sand to act as substrate for both the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. Because of it's size, a given volume of fine sand has a much larger surface area than the same volume of rock, and can house much more bacteria than the rock - thus making a sand bed a *much* better filter substrate than live rock.

Aerobic area

With good water flow in the tank, the surface of the sand bed (and live rock) continuously receives highly aerated water, and this water can slowly permeate into the sand bed (and into the interior of the live rock). This water is rich in oxygen, and readily supports a dense growth of aerobic bacteria which then uses the oxygen to convert the ammonium to nitrites and then to nitrates. During this process the oxygen is used up, and as the water moves further into the sand bed or rock it becomes more and more anaerobic (oxygen poor). At some depth, depending on the grading of the sand and the flow of water above the sand bed, the oxygen concentration in the water drops to a level where anaerobic bacteria can live and multiply, and where they can then convert the nitrates (which are in solution in the permeating water) into inert nitrogen gas.

Anaerobic area

As stated earlier, our anaerobic bacteria live in oxygen poor water - but importantly, they still need *some* oxygen. As a sand bed becomes deeper still, the concentration of oxygen can decrease to a level below where these anaerobic bacteria can live and multiply - this is the so-called anoxic region, and it is inhabited by anoxic bacteria. These bacteria "breathe" sulfur, and in even more anoxic regions they can actually "breathe" calcium (but the latter only occur at really great depths in the oceans, and I have never heard of them living in our tanks...). Despite the old-wives tales and "mythology", these anoxic bacteria are actually very beneficial to our systems, as they not only convert nitrate into nitrogen gas, they also convert toxic heavy metals into non-toxic (and less soluble) metal salts.

Hydrogen Sulphide

"OK", you may ask, "but what about the toxic hydrogen sulphide gas and black areas in the sand?" Well, hydrogen sulphide IS pretty toxic if released into the water in a large volume. Fortunately, when a DLSB is operating properly, this gas is used up again by some of the bacteria, and/or is continuously released into the water in very small quantities which is totally non-toxic. It is only when the sand bed is "stirred" by either the aquarist, or by a large "sand sifting" fish or other animal (which should not be kept in a DLSB tank in the first place...) that there is a chance of a toxic gas release.

Contrary to popular belief, the black areas in the sand are also NOT indications of hydrogen sulphide production. The H2S gas is colourless, and can not turn the sand black. The black/brown/darkly coloured areas are actually caused by the anoxic bacteria converting metals, such as manganese (black), iron (red/brown), etc. into harmless manganese oxide, iron oxide, etc.

Life in the DLSB

"Right, now what about the "Live" in the DLSB?" The deep sand bed needs a constant, but very light, water flow through it, from the surface right down to the deepest part of the bed. This is achieved by the "pumping" and "crawling" action of the sand-living organisms in the DLSB. A mature, well-operating DLSB has literally thousands (if not tens-of-thousands...) of sand-living creatures, ranging from large polychaete (bristle) worms all the way down to microscopic flat worms, amoebas (if there are salt-water amoebae??), etc. in every cubic centimeter of sand. All these "critters" continuously move around in the sand, and the larger worms also "pump" water through their bodies whilst feeding (or breathing), and although each individual movement is quite insignificant, the total movement of all the critters can displace (and circulate) a surprisingly large volume of water.

A second reason for needing sand-living organisms in our DLSB is that they EAT. The larger worms would eat fish excrement, left-over food, and other "waste". Their waste is then eaten by the smaller copepods, whose waste is in turn consumed by micro flat worms, then by the single-celled organisms such as the amoeba... and so it goes all the way down the food chain, until the "waste" has been converted into nice "bite-size" portions for the bacteria.

In summary

To summarize - a successful DLSB needs the following: Properly graded, fine sand with all the particles having smooth, rounded surfaces - in other words, a "natural" sand such as real sea sand, river sand, etc. and NOT crushed sand (which have sharp edges due to the crushing process...). A total depth of between 75mm and 300mm, with the most recommended depth being between about 100mm - 150mm. A proper "seeding" with either live rock, or preferably live sand imported from a reef with many of it's critters. It is also a good idea to swap small amounts of sand with other aquarists, as this can increase the bio-diversity in the sand. Good water movement over the surface of the sand bed. No sand sifting fish or other creatures, and NO siphoning or stirring of the sand bed by the aquarist.

This has only just "skimmed" the surface of having a successful DLSB, but I hope that it has been of some use in clarifying this very interesting subject.

Hennie

Please ID Weird Coraline Algae

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 11:14pm CST by brandonb

Hi this has been growing one of my rocks for a few months now... it doesnt look like the other coralline algae in my tank ... do you get different kinds of coralline algae??

Normal

Weird one ...:whistling:

It is not flat like normal coralline it stands up... an its is very brittle when I pulled some of the GHA out it broke into tiny pieces but has grown back again...

Thanks
Brandon

[FS] Emperor angel

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 8:10pm CST by Zuna

Adult Emperor Angel XL

been with me for 6months
eating well loves vegie bites and live food

also got a large JUV and two little naso tangs

Emperor Angelfish for sale: JHB eldorado park

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 8:03pm CST by Zuna

Fish for saleCommon Name:

Emperor Angelfish

Scientific Name:

-

Size of fish

adult XL

How long have you had the fish?

6 months

Is the fish eating?

fish is eating nori, flacks,vegie bites and live food

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Your location.

JHB eldorado park

Price:

800

Photo's:

Notes:

also a JUV large if anyone is interested
and two little Naso tangs ( lipstick and a blue spoted tang)

Easy Vital (ATI)

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 7:21pm CST by Difficult marine

Hi guy
Who have been used or experience EASY VITAL FROM ATI?......or any link....please

What softie is this?

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 5:41pm CST by Dane

Hi there,

I was given two tiny little frags when I started up my tank, and I just wanted to know if anyone can ID this softie? Its only about 3cm long now. But starting to grow and showing some irridescence.

Those Microbes that Gawie used twice?

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 4:45pm CST by superscenic

Hey there. I want to know what Gawie used when he cycled his new 1.2 meter large tank and sump. Once before he moved, and again after he moved to his new house. He dosed two bottles of live microbes I think. The stuff apparently lowers nitrates and amonia among other things. What is it called and where do I get these bottles? I swear that stuff is liquid (smelly) gold.

I PM'd Gawie ,but I think he is busy installing POS systems across the country with his new Job.

I wont say how quickly his tank cycled, only that I witnessed it with my own eyes.

Thank you,
Clem

overflow design

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 1:19pm CST by butcherman

Had my 4ft tank drilled and adriaan put in a 50mm 1 1/2 insh to 50mm blukhead.
now i was wondering whats the best way to do the plumbing from there to the sump. do i just use elbows and direct the pipes in the most direct route to the sump. Or do i put a t piece straight after the overflow and extend a pipe to above the water level?

I'd like to iliminate as many bubble as possible by not putting in a bad design and also make the overflow as quiete as posiable.
these are the only pics i have for now

Various frags for sale: Cape Town

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 1:06pm CST by Jimbo

Various frags for saleCommon Names:

Green Hammer coral

Scientific Names:

LPS- hammer

Size of frags

Large

How long have you had the frags?

2 years

Are the frags mounted?

No

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Your location.

Cape Town

Price:

R200

Photo's:

Notes:

Hi Guys,

I have about 5 green hammer corals for sale. Do not have an exact pic but it's the one to the left of the anemone.

Regards,

James

Power Cuts and Claims

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 12:04pm CST by keyaam

Hey Guys

Over the past two weeks the power in our area has been cut on every second day due to routine maintenance. They are replacing those green/grey boxes outside. Now, I have a prepaid box and was wondering if I could claim for any damages as I pay for a service upfront. I do not want to claim for anything but was just wondering. Oh and by the way I need a genie sometime next week as my power will probably be off when they replace my box. So let me know where I can hire one.

Confused?

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 11:12am CST by PostersPlus

I need some advice on DSB. Are they necessary? What is there purpose? If i will be running a FOWLR should i have one? If i do, can you just use aragonite or is it a specific sand needed?

I apologise if these questions have been answered before but im new to this site and cant seem to find anything?

RO Unit

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 10:13am CST by Creep

Hi Guys.

Ive moved into a new house last weekend and to my surprize there is a 2 stage RO Unit something I still needed for my setup.

But, The BIG But, is the previous owner told me there is a germ or a virus in the unit. Now what now? Wil this affect the all my creatures in my tank sould i start it with that RO Unit? Is a 2 Stage RO Unit suffiecient enough for a Reef Tank?

And another Question can I use a Borehole or rainwater collected in a drum and run it trough a RO Unit for my setup?

Fanworm ID and info pls.

Posted: February 5th, 2010, 9:10am CST by neo

Hi,
discovered one of these last night but in the dark (I dont have lights yet) the tips seemed black, this morning I noticed much more of them and the tips are red.

I ID' them from a book as being 'Spiral Fanworms' is this correct ?

I dont' have any other animals in the tank yet, what do they feed on ? do I have to feed them ?
My tank is only running for a week, will they survive ?
What about flow, seems they filter feed but do they like lots of flow or only small water movement

Hello MASA

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 3:14am CST by spy_i

Hi everyone! New here to MASA. Hope to find some new friends here.

G-Man, gMan and D-Man

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 7:50pm CST by sean_koekemoer

Mods, are these three different guys or the same????

Looking for help

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 7:24pm CST by G-man

Hi guys!

I'm looking for someone in the Alberton or JHB area who does tank services. I need them to be able to have a look at what i got and tell me what i still need.

know anybody?

February photo comp-Theme: general fish (open thread)

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 5:49pm CST by crispin

Ok here goes feb's photo comp.
this month we are looking for fish shots. No limit to which fish other than they need to be marine and alive:)

closeups, full fish, fish in a specific situation etc etcm, it all goes.

This is the 'open thread' i will get the sticky made for final submisions made too.

This month we are adding a slight difference in that we will make two sections, those with DSLR and those with point and shoot cameras. frankly competing against hennies cannon mark 5 d is rather tough, so we are aiming it a little easier for those without a dslr.

So one section for point and shoot and one for DSLR's.

BUT please make sure that you shhot in alarge format so that if you get a winning shot then we can use it for printing.

have fun:)

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/04/HEY'

HEY

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 5:02pm CST by gMAN

Hey all, new on the site, got my 1st 4ft reef tank started, any advice much appreciated

Local LR, legal or not, yes or no.

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 1:17pm CST by magman

Is local live rock legal to take? From what I understand, the answer amongst the forum is that it is taboo. I did ask the head of the local parkies here a year ago, and he did say yes, as long as it is loose, and you do not break it off, (He would not put this in writing for me)

I presume if you ever had to go to court, there would be a million loop holes, but where does it say you cannot touch LR from our reefs

a great FAQ for LNS and ULNS

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 12:10pm CST by dallasg

Ultra Low Nutrient System (ULNS) FAQ - World Wide Reefers

Bristleworms

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 11:20am CST by PostersPlus

Can anyone tell me if bristle worms are good or bad for your tank?

LNS/ULNS Lighting ....... Are we doing something wrong?

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 10:59am CST by Neil H

Guys, i have been reading about LNS and ULNS for ages now, and one thing i was thinking about this morning was the lighting that we use.... typically in South Africa, if you mention you are thinking about going for an SPS dominated reef the standard response to a lighting question is MH.... and at least 250w MH...... But does this hold true for a LNS or ULNS system.....

I came across a statement on one of the forums which said that MH lighting in a LNS system did more harm than good, and that in many cases people found the MH lighting too harsh for the corals (burning them)..... Being in the design phase of my new system, this interested me...... so i went to the ZEOvit forum ..... and i had an indepth look at the last 8 dream tanks of the quarter...... these tanks are amazing and cross a wide spectrum of SPS, and vary both is total size and depth .......

The amazing thing to me is that ONLY 1 tank used MH lights exclusively and only 1 additional tank had MH in addition to T5's....... 6 of the 10 used T5 lighting exclusively ...... below are some pics and stats (please refer to Zeovit.com for the original pics)

A warning to people reading this, this discussion pertains to LNS/ULNS systems ONLY....

the only tank as far as i could work out that only uses MH lighting .... 2x250, 4x400, 2x160, tank is 60cm deep, 800L and has 2.8 wats of MH lighting per DT L

2x150w MH, 2 x 54w T5, 2 x 24wT5, 200L, 40cm deep, 2.28w per DT L

1100w of T8 lighting, 1600L DT, 50cm deep, 0.68w per DT L

710watts of T5 (39w & 80W), 1460L, 60cm deep, 0.48watts per DT L

720w T5 lighting, 55cm deep, 730L DT, 1watt per DT L

est 8 x 80w T5's, 630L, 60cm deep, 1 watt per DT L

16xT5X80W, 70cm deep, 1295L DT, 1 watt per DTL

10xT5x54W, 70cm deep, 2000L DT, 0.27W per DT L

So people of the LNS way ..... what are your opinions on this?????????

and lets not judge the pics as much as we look at the coral colours.......

The SA catch record.

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 10:45am CST by magman

Lets keep a catch record of all the fish, inverts corals etc that we have caught from our own SA waters, preferabbly with a pic, if not then post it. lets try and keep this as a record, so if someone has posted a goldie above you, then there is no need for you to say you caught 10.

Just a record of what fish etc we have taken out for our tanks from accross the country.

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/04/AJ'

AJ

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 10:20am CST by AJH

Hi
I am so new to this please be patient.

[FS] 4ft complete setup for sale

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 10:15am CST by mnd123

Hey all,

Selling my 4ft as I moved to the 6ft. I am selling complete and will keep it running next to my desk until I find a buyer - dont really have time for breakdown - I am pricing it to sell as a unit - fast if possible.

Main Display = 1200(L)x450(W)x500(H) with corner overflow
cabinet and hood (Oak veneer)
Sump: 2 x 450(L)x350(W)x400(H) sumps joined with piping (one a DSB)
Return: Astro3000 1900l/hr
Powerheads: 4 x SEIO M820 magnet mounts
Filtration: Reef Octo TS1
lights: 6 x 54W T5 DIY into the hood, with DIY reflector

As I said I will keep it running (it is 2 years old, so nice pod and wotsit population in the DSB/Fuge and in gravel) so if you take water etc tank is up and running immediately with little cycle.

Asking R3000, collection only please.

Cheers

Marc

Urgent help needed fish got cloudy eyes

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 9:42am CST by Zuna

Hey Guys

Most of my fish have got a white cloudy like thing on both eyes.
checked my water parameters the nitrate was high so i did a 40% water change.
ive lost about 4 fish so far what else can i do.
all the inverts seem fine tho

Tank Maintenace when on Holiday ....

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 9:40am CST by bluefronted

Hi Guys,

I was wondering how, what or who takes care of your tanks when you are on vacation or away for a week or two , maybe three ??

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/04/Hi'

Hi

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 8:59am CST by D-man

My name is Darryn.Ive been in the pet trade for about 12 years.And have been keeping fish for about 20 years.Marines only 5 years.And learning every day!!
So all the info will be greatly welcome!Thanks

Tank builders-CPT

Posted: February 4th, 2010, 8:27am CST by maj

Hello all,

My bro is wanting to get into marines(yip,the reef addiction has hit my family:))
He wants to build a nice cube,about 800X800X750(h).

Who is the best guy/shop in cape town to go to and who will not rip him off.
He want the 3 viewing panes in starfire with a centre overflow.

We can get sum1 to do the stand,just need info on tank builders who arent that pricey in Cape town.

thnks in advance

For Herkie or any 1 els

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 2:54am CST by Seaman

Sorry i did not know where to put this Thread.

Hi Herkie, Im that guy from Kwambonambi but now im staying in Mtunzini..
How is your tank doing?
I'm still failing to get a tank up and running.
I have some PC fans to trade if you or anyone els can help me to drill some holes in glass and help building a sump for a Nano tank..
I have about 7 12v 3 24v and 1 or 2 220v fans.
Groete
Errol..

DIY Frozen Food Suggestions

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 12:26am CST by Singularity

OK, have been doing some reading with regards to all the different recipes people use for their forzen fish food, i actually wanted to find out if gelatin could be to any detriment, it looks like it can be used to bind the oil, as well as keep the puree in some larger chunks for the fish.

But Bob Fenner suggests the use of Alginate Binders rather than gelatin, specifically Sodium Alginate. Can anybody give me the translation of alginate in afrikaans (lol) Natrium wat ? That will make it just so much easier getting it from the universaty or chemical shops around here.

OK anyway the sodium alginate will be used as binder to keep the food together when you put it in the water and not disperse into the water colum, some people may suggest banana`s or egg yolks but they have never worked aswell as gelatin for me though.

I have been making food for discus for a couple of years and that has been working great for me, here is a list of ingredients i want to incorporate into my marine food

Powdered Ascorbic acid tabs (vitamin C) there is another product in powder form that is also pure vitamin c but cant remember the name right now.

Spirulina

Kelp powder

Powdered Centrum tabs

Quality pellet and flake foods powdered

Nori

And then ofcourse some seafood mix, fresh mussels, white fish etc.

Anyone see any problems with these ingredients ?

Phosphate 0.5 mg/l what to do?

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 6:55pm CST by vatso

is 0.5 mg/l that bad? the tropic marin test kit is showing more like 0.4 mg/l

Must I just leave it? & let the LR remove it & just feed less?

my Nitrates are the lowest on the test chart. so phosphate is my problem

thanks in advance

Mark

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/03/Top_up_Question'

Overflow issues

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 4:46pm CST by Tim S

Hi all, I built a perspex 'pre-filter' box below my dt overflows. The 2 overflows are 50mm dia and deliver about 1500 litres per hour each. The idea is that the overflow water passes through layers (about 8) of filterwool sheeting as a pre-filer before the dsb. To evenly distribute the flow accross the area of the filter sheeting, I placed a sheet of perspex which I drilled a grid of holes through to disperse the water and drop through all the holes onto the filter material. All works brilliantly except for two problems. There is quite a bit of splashing taking place which causes a noise with a fine water spray around the unit leaving things covered in salt. Has anyone got something similar which works better or advice on a more silent and controlled flow or filter system?

Tim

Help!

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 2:55pm CST by GNC

Hi, new to the guppy breeding,need help!

Anyone got some

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 2:41pm CST by keyaam

Hey All

I need to fill up some spaces in my tank with a few softies. Anyone got some frags for sale.

Macro lenses.

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 2:03pm CST by Mudshark

Quite a lot of alternative ideas to buying an expensive macro lense have been spoken about here on the photography forum. These include reversing lenses, extension tubes and attachments to the ends of lenses.

As an absolute knob-eyed appie, what will be the best purchase for me. I photograph jewellery for work and really enjoy insect and macro plant photography. Of course I'll be shooting our favourite fishies on the move, and static corals deeper whithin the tank as well. I can't say that money's no object, but I do want to get the best tools for the job, but I don't want to spend a fortune for something which could also be achieved with an inexpensive add on and a bit of extra work.

The next question is, can I achieve good results in macro photography with an entry level flash or do I need to look at 6k+ macro flash setups?

What kills star polyps?

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 1:23pm CST by Mudshark

Help guys!!!! I need something that kills or eats exclusively star-polyps. They're the worst things to have in your tank. They overrun everything and sting sps, often initiating stn. I'm trying to control their spread by scraping them off the rocks, but am losing the battle. My tank is no longer at a stage where I can simply remove rocks to scrub or cook them.

Stand Height

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 12:58pm CST by Manic

Hey everyone,

I'm getting a new tank in a few days time, it's 900mm x 900mm x 600mm (High). I'm going to make the stand out of square tube. The only thing I can't decide on is how high to make the stand. I really like the look of idol marines cubes, where the tank is at eye level, but I think for a tank this size it is going to make it difficult to work on. Anyone got any suggestions?

Don't Get Angry - Sun Coral

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 12:58pm CST by vatso

I have a sun coral had it now for about 1.5 weeks.

The thing does not like the light & opens only after lights out!

I have read we can get them to feed with lights on! I have been trying.

I am using frozen food with syringe to target feed

Pumps off - target feed then wait 15 Min for them to open a little then target feed again

I take it - it just takes time to get it into opening when the lights are on?

Thanks
Mark

18w PAR 38 eurolux ??

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 12:57pm CST by neo

howdy,
i've been browsing Builders for lights for my sump and there was some 18watt par38 style globe from eurolux, get them in cool and warm white and looks like about 37 lums per watt.
Anybody using them? you think normal energy savers is better ?
this globe sells for R75 with 6000hr live time...

Tank breaking down in CPT: Cape Town

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 12:48pm CST by maj

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

Tank breaking down in CPT

Location:

Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi peeps,

I got a guy on gumtree who is breaking down his Marine tank,lots equipmnt and Livestock for sale.
Whoever interested,drop me pm with ur email addy and i can forward u the excel sheet with pricelist of all goodies.

Cool

Notes:

-

My little piece of the ocean

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 12:30pm CST by Evo R

Well after doing some reading on this site and trying to learn more on marines ive finally taken the plounge and started my own little peice of ocean.

Got a buyo last week.Duno what it is as its smaller than a TL 550 but bigger than a TL 450.Its a 82L.Its got only 3 chambers at the back.Left is the overflow.And return is on the right.And its got a 24w light and not a 18w.

Been running sea water sins Saturday.Placed a order on Monday with Lanzo,and got everything last night.( +- 1500km away) Thanks Lanzo for the best service i got in a LOOOOONG time!!

Removed everything at the back and placed LR rubble in the overflow chamber with filter floss on top. 9kg Araga-max alive for substrate. +- 4 kg matured LR (lots of cool little things moving and some corals.Dunno what they are but their cool!)

Added stability and going to ad Matrix Carbon and cheni-pure elite later today.

So just waiting for the cycle to finish.

Sponsor request - Captive bred black clownfish

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 12:04pm CST by Dane

Hey all,

Does anyone stock captive bred black and white clownfish? As a policy I do not purchase any wild caught species and I was wondering if anyone sources tank raised ones?

This some ambiguity on the common name, so for reference:

Thanks in advance,
Dane

Canopy advise needed!

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 11:42am CST by Nsteyn

Hi all you DIY Guru's, I need some advice on my canopy.

If you look at my thread, you will see that my tank is 1.5m x 0.8m x 0.8m.
My canopy is basically the same size, resting directly on my tank with 6 T5 80w mounted directly to the canopy.

There is two swing doors in the front, for access for things like feeding etc.

My problem is when I want to do some hard work, like cleaning gravel, moving LR etc.
Currently I then have to remove my whole canopy, place it next to my tank, do the work, and replace it.

Last night I broke 2x T5 80w bulps.. needless to say, I was pretty peed with myself, and need to make another plan. Also, I always need my wife or someone to assist me in removing the canopy, and it is a whole mission.

So this is what I want :P
A way to Hoist the canopy up.. or lift it up - anything to get it out of the way. Was thinking about having a pully system in the roof an just lifting it up, and then dropping it back when I am done, but have no idea how to get it working.. it does not have to be automated, I dont mind using elbow grease as long as its workable by one person..

Hope this makes sense.. otherwise ask .
There is a pic on my tank threat to give you an idea..
impatient nuub :D - Page 5 - Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Tnx!

Niel

233 specimens Shipment today

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 10:55am CST by Moolis

Hi Reefers

We are landing a 233 specimen shipment today - this is what are in the boxes:

Angel - CORAL BEAUTY ANGEL
Angel - RUSTY ANGEL
Butterfly - CHELMON BUTTER FLY = copperband
Cardinal - RED SPOTTED CARDINAL = pajama
Clown - AFRICAN CLOWN
Clown - MAROON CLOWN
Clown - PERCULA CLOWN
Damsel - GREEN CHROMIS
Damsel - YELLOW CHROMIS
Damsel - YELLOW TAIL BLUE DAMSEL
Fish - EGG SHARK
Goby - BICOLOR GOBY
Goby - BLUE BARRED/ZEBRA GOBY
Goby - FIREFISH GOBY
Goby - GREEN CLOWN GOBY
Goby - SALARIAS GOBY
Goby - YELLOW WATCH MAN GOBY
Goldie - MADDER SEA PEARCH ANTHIAS
Goldie - PINK ANTHIAS
Goldie - PINK ANTHIAS
Goldie - SUNBURST ANTHIAS
Invert - CORAL BANDED SHRIMP
Invert - HERMIT CRAB
Wrasse - MARBLE WRASSE
Wrasse - PURPLE WRASSE
Wrasse - RED WRASSE JUVENILE
Wrasse - YELLOW WRASSE

The standard discounts aply

*2010 DISCOUNT STRUCTURE*
·Day 1 In the bag # 12.5% + 2.5% CASH =15%
·Day 1 Out of the bag # 7.5% + 2.5% CASH = 10%
·Day 2 # 4.5% + 2.5% CASH = 7%
·Day 3 # 2.5% + 2.5% CASH = 5%

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/02/03/Soft_Coral_%c2%96_Target_Feeding'

Soft Coral Target Feeding

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 10:21am CST by Dean76

Hi, I would like to know if one should target feed soft corals (like mushrooms, zoas and when I get my ricordeas)? Plus when one target feeds should I turn off the pumps and if so how long should I leave them off for? Look forward to hearing back from you all.

[FS] Hailea HC1000B Chiller for sale

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 10:05am CST by sean_koekemoer

I DROPPED THE PRICE- NOT TO BE REPEATED BARGAIN!!!!!!!!!

Guys, I have a Chiller for sale. This one is not going to handle the water capacity of my tank (more than 9000lt), and I do not want it to overwork itself.

The Chiller is 01 year and 06 months old and have only worked for 10 months before I disconnected the tank.
In Mint Condition.
These Chillers go from R7000.00 upwards new

This is the info from Hailea:

Hailea HC chillers have strong metal chassis with a housing of contemporary design,ensuring the chiller does not look out of place in any surroundings and as with other cooling units,our chillers-the HC series use the environmental friendly refrigerant R134a.

Lower noise design,whilst the digital temperature ontroller ensures that the selected temperature is maintained.

The rate of flow is decided according to the max jet of the pump
(immersible power filter) and the circulation equipment.

HC-1000B

300~2500L

1HP

R22

220~240V(110~120V)

1500~4000L/H

50Hz(60Hz)

31.3kg

4.2A(9.6A)

520×400×480mm

[FS] Reef Octopus DDNW 250 Recirculating Protein Skimmer for sale

Posted: February 3rd, 2010, 10:02am CST by sean_koekemoer

I have this skimmer available: Excellent Condition

Reef Octopus

Skimmer Code: DDNW-250-6540

Type:Recirculating Needle-Wheel(250mm Diameter)

I dropped the price!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Basic Marine Aquarium Setup

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 9:37pm CST by viper357

Standard setup

There are many possibilities of setting up a marine aquarium however a basic setup would consist of a display tank, with an overflow running down to a second tank, called a sump. Water then returns via a return pump to the display tank.

Display Tank

This, as the name suggests is the actual display in which the fish and the corals are housed. Flow pumps such as Seios and Tunzes will be placed in here as well.

Overflow

Water flows over this pane and creates surface skimming, water then goes down standpipes to the sump In the Overflow a Durso standpipe will quieten the gurgling noises from the water flowing down the pipe to the sump

Durso Standpipe - Durso Standpipes

Sump

The Sump is a container (generally a second tank) that will hold the unsightly equipment such as the skimmer etc It also houses the Deep Sand Bed.

The Last chamber houses the return pump and the auto top up float switch (if installed) for Topping Up with Reverse Osmosis water.

Author: Kanga

Acclimatising Fish

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 8:54pm CST by viper357

Why should you acclimatise your fish?

Marine fish are susceptible to sudden changes in their environment, sudden changes in PH, salinity and temperature could stress the fish and even kill it. A stressed fish is more prone to diseases such as white spot. Such a fish could in turn infect the rest of the tank's inhabitants.

What Method should you use

I prefer the dripping method where you place the fish and the water in a container below the tank and by means of a airline tube and valve, drip water from the main tank into the container. A slow drip is sufficient and once the container is full (should be 2-3hours) the fish can be placed in the display. The water from the container is discarded and then replaced with clean seawater. An airstone can be placed in the bucket with low airflow.
It is also possible to float the bag with the fish in the tank, pegging it to the side with a clothes peg. Then every 10 minutes adding a tot glass of tank water into the bag for 3 hours. The advantage of this method is that the water temperature is more stable, but it is more labour intensive

Copper in the Holding Tank of the LFS

Some pet shops use copper as a medication in their tanks to minimise stock losses. Copper is fatal to marine invertebrates. Because of the copper it is important that once you have dripped the fish for the required time you remove the fish from the water in the container and then add the fish to the tank. This way you do not add copper from the pet shop to your system.

Author: Kanga

pink colt coral??

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 8:13pm CST by Furbz

hey guys,

2day i saw a pink colt coral in store...
looked fantastic, however i have never heard of a pink colt coral...
it just stank of being dyed?
could someone correct me if if there is a actually pink version??
cos i have the dull brown version and have never heard of one in pink.

just to be sure, i am damn sure its a colt coral as i have a very large brown piece of it in my tank currently..
they are identical.

Some pics things are looking okay :)

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 7:22pm CST by vatso

Hi all as you can see things are still alive & well

Colt is looking much better candy cane seems to be growing by the day!

I am target feeding all my corals

[FS] goldtail,chrysurus, Pomacanthus chrysurus for sale

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 6:05pm CST by Yuri

i have my big +23cm angel fish for sale
so fare he has been good with corals i had a hammer and polyps and have not eaten any thing
and he is in a good condition

Alberton hook up

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 5:25pm CST by Wetty

Anyone on the forum thats in the Alberton areas...or close by wana get together soon and just chill? Maybe braai and get to socialise...like at the Alberton dam or something? Wot u guys think?

Whats happening to my mushroom

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 5:25pm CST by Jurgs

Hi guys,

I got this mushroom on the weekend. Every thing seems ok with it, but today I look and one of the leaves has been covered by what looks like cotten wool or something. Maybe the pictures will be alittle clearer.

If anyone can explain why this is happening and what i can do or should i just leave it.

Dorry Pets Seahorse Skimmer tank

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 4:34pm CST by lanzo

Hi guys the Skimmer tank is finally up and running...it has been standing in the shop for about 9 months without any progress.

Finally Yuri helped me sort it out quickly.

Tank: reef octopus skimmer 120liter in total including the sump
Return pump is 1200l/h
light: x2 rio led light fittings adding one more later this week

about 7kg Live Rock
Figi pink substrate

Skimmer: boyu:lol:...but the tunze skimmer will be fitted later this week

Will be keeping Macro algae and seahorses:thumbup:

And here is the pictures for you:

Sump design project

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 3:31pm CST by knut-ove

Hi.

I am planing to build a new sump and need some input on how to construct it.
My display tank is 1,8x0,7x0,7 about 800L
I am thinking to use 6mm glass for it, what spacing do I need for the silicone?
For the first drawing I am using 6mm

Here is what I have planed so far, please advice:P

[FS] CO2 & Osmolator

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 3:10pm CST by naptalene

Hi,

Only got an osmolater and a Tunze Kit 75 CO2 system left to sell.

Asking R4500.00 for both. The CO2 system has a PH monitor, probes, calcium reactor, CO2 bottle(full) with regulator and brand new calibration Fluid. Osmolater is the Tunze auto top-up system with IR sensor and cutoff system/alarm as well as the pump. All in good nick and looking for a quick sale.

Cheers:wave2:

Hello Everyone.

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 3:01pm CST by PostersPlus

Hello Everyone

kalkwasser - slaked lime

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 2:43pm CST by johanpm

Hi guys,

I have made the kalkwasser dripper with the coke bottle and all works well.

Just one question...

Is one drop every 3 seconds too much for a 130l tank?

Proposed Licences

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 2:28pm CST by Corry

Hi All,

I am on the South African Underwater Fishing Federation committee and we handle all matters relating to spearfishing in SA.

We have just gotten wind of a gazette to increase licence fees massivley for all matters realted to taking from the ocean.

Those of you that catch your own specimens will have to pay significantly more and those like me who do that plus spearfish plus crayfish plus everything else is going to be in for a few thousand.

I would urge as many to join SAUFF (R100 p/year) so that we can have numbers to fight this. Go to www.saspearoranking.co.za and look under the heading SAUFF registration.

Alternatively PM more more details or to get a copy of the gazette.

Good diving,
Corry

Online "live" auction

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 1:26pm CST by Moolis

Hi All Reefers

We decided to put this lovely Red Donut Coral up for auction.

It must go:yeahdude: even below cost:P

To participate in the auction you will have to register yourself as a user on our online shopping site www.onlinepetshop.co.za.
After you have registered yourself you will be able to see the auction link at the top of the page. The actual auction Started 10h00 on 2 February 2010. AND You will be able to see all previous bids as the auction progress. :yeahdude:

The auction close on 2010-02-19 at 24H00 - no communications of the site will be done nor will late bids be excepted.;)

Enjoy - hope you get it!:lol:

ATO preference

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 12:11pm CST by mariusmeyer

Hi guys.

Which one would be better, a gravity fed auto top up or a pump operated one via a float switch?

Moon Coral (Favia) wanted

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 12:05pm CST by ZeroCool

hi there, does anyone in gauteng have maybe some of this:

ID, and does anyone have some of this ?

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 11:36am CST by ZeroCool

morning, does anyone in gauteng have of the following. I would assume it is a softy.

Urgent help needed Oxilatol bit off more than it can chew!!!!!

Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 10:06am CST by Titanse

Hi Guys

I know it may not be a marine but my mates Oxi swallowed a Pleco whole. The tail is still sticking out of its mouth.

We have been wondering how to get it out cause it is getting worse and worse each day (day 3 now)

Please could someone help !!!

snooze or loose sale

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 7:46am CST by Punk

Hardware for saleThread title:

snooze or loose sale :)

Location:

joburg, waverley

Shipping or Collection only:

collection, if ship then they must collect from me

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Chiller Hailea HC1000BH with heater - R4500

4 x 300W Jager heaters - R250 each

Refractometer - R500

Waterboy TDS meter - R100

Reef Octopus CR-100 calcium reactor complete with 2kg bottle and dual gauge SAGA regulator PLUS spare 5kg bottle - R3500

Reef Octopus Ozoniser HLO-800 - R450

4 x 10kg bags of substrate (the ones sold by Aquarium Depot a while back) - R400 all

Complete DB Box with 4 digital timers (cost like R500 each) and lots of breakers - R3000

2 Big boxes Real Ocean salt (4 bags in each i think) - R300 each

Brand spanking new Skimmer Reef Octo Bubble Blaster Internal (single pump) - R4500

MD70 magnetic drive pump - R1200

Reef Octopus Kalkwasser Reactor KR-140 - R1500

2 x Reef Octopus Phosphate Reactor PHR-100 - R1500 each

if you take lots of stuff then we can talk discount :)

shipping at own cost and they must collect from me

cheers
ant

Notes:

-

Hey Guys

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 7:33am CST by mstrpln03

Just signed up. I'm in the US but have friends in and from South Africa and thought I would join. I am researching to set up a non-photosynthetic reef and found you from a google search. Cool site. Cheers

BEST nano tanks

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 9:48pm CST by Matt

You don't want to miss this. Updated monthly, AWESOME nano's - Featured tanks on Nano-reef.com

Coming soon...

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 9:13pm CST by sihaya

I've just written (for FAMA) a "long" article on choosing a marine substrate. Once Clay says it's ok, and after it's published in May, I can make it available online. I don't know if y'all get FAMA, but come May, if I forget, I hope someone will bump this and remind me... :)

Planned 4ft Reef

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 8:29pm CST by Slagter

Ok, so it's finally happened. I'm going to be starting my first marine tank. I have plenty of fresh water tanks at the moment (24) and I thought I'd try my hand at a reef tank.

What I have at the moment:

1x 4ft cabinet tank with a 50L sump. Total: 250L
1x Brand new 2000L/h return pump
4x Brand new Seio prop pumps. 1x 3800L/h and 3x 2000L/h.
I have 30KG's of Fiji Live Rock on order
I also have some base rock on the way.
I have a 300watt Jager heater
1x 14kg bag of Aragamax (need another bag)
1x 3 stage RO unit
2x 150watt Metal Halides
Plenty of T5's

So here are the questions:

With regards to the sump. There is not enough space in there for a DSB. Can I add live rock to the 2 chambers in the sump, or should I add filter sponge to the first and the LR to the second? The TS1 I am looking at will fit into the inlet chamber of the sump, but with not much space for anything else in there.

Flow Rate:

From what I've read, I should be pushing around 25 - 30x the tanks volume onto the LR. I think I have enough pumps for that. Now for the question: How do you angle the pumps toward the live rock? Do you just make sure that you have an even amount of flow throughout the tank? I am wanting to hook these up to a controller at some point, but not right now.

Base Rock:

Does base rock eventually become seeded and turn into Live rock? I am adding about 20kg's of base rock to the tank so that the Fiji LR does not become covered by any of the substrate.

Live rock:

Besides looking different and the price, what are the differences between Kenyan or Fiji Live rock? I'm not the expert here, you guys are supposed to be! :P In a 4ft tank, what is the recommended amount of LR? Like I said, I'm getting 30kg's, will this be enough?

Lighting:

Wont MH light heat up the water? I'm going to re-look at my canopy. Making it 400mm tall... Then I'm going to install some nice big fans in the side of the canopy.

With regards to heating: What is the optimal temp for a reef tank? I'd assume it would be around 24 - 25 degrees?

Thanks in advance for the help, I look forward to sharing this new experience with all of you? :thumbup:

Sean

Tang Compatability

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 8:20pm CST by poiromaniax

Hi Guys,

I have placed a "dibs" at Idol Marine on a Tomini Tang, (Tomini Tang - Blue Zoo Aquatics)

I am busy doing research on the fish (as well as waiting for the fish to come in and adjust etc :lol: )

I currently have a Sailfin Tang that is about 4-5cm (Sailfin Tang - Blue Zoo Aquatics")

My current tank is 1.2m, but hopefully I will have upgraded to a 1.5m by FIFA time :P (June/July for those that are currently residing in caves)

Do you think there will be a compatibility issue between the two?
Other than the "territory battle" when I introduce him/her?
What other factors should I be thinking of?

Thanks in advance :yeahdude:

Very ^%&&($ bleak, very @(^%$^ sweet

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 8:03pm CST by Neil H

MY MOMMA TOLD ME THERE WOULD BE DAYS LIKE THIS..........

lets start off with the Sweet part ....

I moved into my new house over the weekend, beats the hell out of renting.....

NOW the Bittttttttttttttter

i moved the contents of the house on sat .... except the tank

Sunday was tank day ..... i should have known things were not going to go my way when i slipped and reinjured a recurring shoulder dislocation ..... the look on Dallas and Sentari's faces was priceless ... as priceless as it can be with your shoulder dislocated....

to cut a long story short ...

After 2 years of having a Nennie ....... on Saturday night when the tank was alone it somehow got sucked into the pump...... (breathe Crispin)... the nennie proofing promoted on the karen rose website worked in that the nennie was not sucked in and chopped up, but it was suctioned against the pump..... no visible tearing but a very grumpy nennie

i have moved many tanks before and never lost much livestock .... until sunday

I did everything i know correctly and lost 5 fish...

my 18cm regal
my copperband
my sailfin tang
my pair of anthias

BLEAK .....

Tonight tanks seems stable, doing WC, only 1 t5 light on, skimming wet, new carbon, dosing stability and other bacteria .......

Nennie is grumpy but seems to be ok

a tough day in reefing for me.

Special thanks to Dallas, Inflames and Sentari for all their help, it was greatly appreciated ...

Boyu TL-550 - Skimmer Upgrade

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 6:07pm CST by damoura

Hi,

I am new in MASA, I need a help !!! I have a Boyu TL-550 and i need upgrade my skimmer (original), what skimmer is recommended and fit in original place of the original skimmer ?

Pardon by my english,

Regards.

Daniel

ATS Question

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 6:04pm CST by charlv

Hi All Reefers

Hope you all well and all systems run fine.;)
I've got a question on the ATS i know that the growth on the scrubber depends on the lights you use and how close they are but mine grows algae but then the growth stop at a certain point plus hair algae start to grow in my tank. I use 2 x 45W cool white eurolux lamps, screen 30cm x 30cm, flow i use my overflow about 1500l/h.

So please help and give me more advice why hair algae start to grow in my tank. I've cut back on feeding only once a day and only flakes

Top up with RO water

Cheers Charl

The 440L Butterfly Effect

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 3:08pm CST by Singularity

OK so this is perhaps a bit early to start a thread on this tank because it will only see water in 3 months (still have to order tank, and moving, etc etc.).
But here we go anyway ! :P

Tank dimensions: 1250x600(h)x700(w) and with water level at 500, 10mm glass with skinny overflow by idol marine
Sump will be a standard 4ft: 1250x450x450 with 3 chambers and ATO chamber by idol marine
Tank will sit on a 50x50mm sqr tubing stand by idol marine.
Lighting: Not to fancy for now, just a 4x54w t5 pendant.
Skimmer will be a bubble blaster 5000 internal skimmer.
Will be using SAGA ATO unit.
Dsb big as possible after skimmer is fitted.

OK, for flow i will be using 2x vortech mp40w for a wave motion, similar to this:

[www.youtube.com]

As soon i get some of the equipment and my new camera i will start posting acouple of pictures.

Do we make our live stock soft?

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 3:08pm CST by vatso

Me again

so the fact we target feed & the like - why is it the stuff, never lives as long in our tanks like in the wild? the wild is just that a hard place...

what are your feeling about this?

Fragging Mushrooms.

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 2:42pm CST by Dean76

Hi, I know all of the questions have been asked and answered before, hope you wont mind helping me out with these questions with fragging?
1. If I cut the shroom on the stem and leave the foot behind will a new shroom grow from the foot?
2. The leave part, can that now be cut in half with a piece on the mouth on each piece and will it to grow even though I cut the foot off?
I know that these are properly 2 silly questions but I just want to make sure be for I kill a shroom by mistake.
I have never fraged before and I am very keen it give it a try and watch some of the vids on youtube.
Any other advice one can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Look forward to the replies.

Vleis

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 2:08pm CST by vleis

Hi all you marine experts.

I am completly a novice when it comes to marine aquaruims. With fresh water fish I am bit of an expert. The marine bug has however bitten me completely. I would like to start my own marine aquaruim but have no idea where to start and what to do. I do have a 200 litre fish tank. Will this be suitable to use as marine aquaruim. Please help me. What is all the equipment that i must buy and where can I buy this??

T5 Lighting for 4ft tanks

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 1:28pm CST by Francois

Hi

What is the best T5 lighting system for a 4ft tank? At the moment I'm running six bulbs,

Reeftek
4 X T5 54w -12000 k
2 X T5 54w -Actinic...

I want to bring out the color of the corals more.

I see you get actinic, blue and pure actinic bulbs...

What should I go for?

[FS] Reef Octopus DDNW 250 Recirculating Protein Skimmer for sale

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 1:26pm CST by sean_koekemoer

I have this skimmer available: Excellent Condition

Reef Octopus

Skimmer Code:DDNW-250-6540

Type:Recirculating Needle-Wheel(250mm Diameter)

Pumps:2 x OTP3000

Rated Volume: 2,500l

How long do fish live?

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 1:24pm CST by vatso

This is an interesting question - how long do fish live?

How do we know if a fish died of old age?

[FS] Reef Octopus Kalkwasser

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 1:12pm CST by sean_koekemoer

Complete Kalkwasser excluding Pump:

Name:KR-140

Type:Kalkwasser Reactor

Size:(140mm Diameter)

Pump:1 x OTP1000

Rated:1,000l

Nano n00b

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 12:17pm CST by fly*

Hi All,

I'm new to marine, bought a 9gallon Nano in December, started cycling it beginning of Jan and then it started leaking a week ago :P so I've bought a new Boyu TL450 and that's in the 1st week of its cycle.

So yeah...nano n00b :)

Which Coral is the most difficult to keep?

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 12:01pm CST by vatso

Ello all

Which coral would be the most difficult to keep in a marine tank?

SPS is difficult but I am more looking for which of them?

Surgeonfish

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 10:57am CST by maj

Hi ppl,

I just bought a surgeonfish yesterday,he was acclimatised proply and then dropped in DT,he didn go into hiding and started swimming checking out the new place.

Thing is he hasnt been eating the flakes,pellets or nori,he just pecks on the algae on the rocks.
what can ido or feed him?
he was eating in the LFS

Lighting - Based on livestock

Posted: February 1st, 2010, 8:09am CST by Ridwaan

Howzit Guys...

I was thinking alot about lighting these past few days and my main question is...

How does one know that lighting is enough on his/her tank by visual appearance of corals?

What does one look for in the corals to know that the existing lighting on the tank is making the corals happy so to say?

Cool
Ridwaan:thumbup:

Reefkeeping South Africa » Marine Aquariums of South Africa » February 2010

Feeds

Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 9:45pm CST by Reef E

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 8:41pm CST by Fishyman

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 7:41pm CST by Reefmad

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 6:58pm CST by vatso

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 6:58pm CST by Halfmoon

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 6:29pm CST by Jinx

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 5:46pm CST by herkie

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 4:14pm CST by vatso

Posted: February 28th, 2010, 11:52am CST by Propnut

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 6:02am CST by LikesFish

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 12:13am CST by samier

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 8:38pm CST by Tanz

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 6:04pm CST by brandonb

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 4:32pm CST by gMAN

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 1:27pm CST by viper357

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 1:18pm CST by Reef Maniac

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 12:26pm CST by samier

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 11:11am CST by abgg118

Posted: February 27th, 2010, 9:57am CST by Naiema

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 9:43pm CST by Reef E

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 9:38pm CST by Reef E

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 8:09pm CST by Roadblock

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 7:16pm CST by Nsteyn

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 6:53pm CST by Amoré

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 4:16pm CST by gMAN

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 3:40pm CST by ReefMaster_SA

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 2:21pm CST by brentv

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 2:17pm CST by Garethmur

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 2:04pm CST by JohnDoe

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 12:48pm CST by deepblue

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 11:30am CST by Jcc

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 11:22am CST by Bob the (reef)builder

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:40am CST by nickv1

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:30am CST by Singularity

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:26am CST by sweetnsour

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 10:11am CST by Dragonet

Posted: February 26th, 2010, 9:02am CST by chikaboo

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 7:45am CST by ziyaadb

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 4:32am CST by aminyassien

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 12:09am CST by nico.m.ferreira@gmail.com

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 10:25pm CST by Zuna

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 9:34pm CST by manta

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 9:11pm CST by sean_koekemoer

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 9:01pm CST by butcherman

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 8:22pm CST by sean_koekemoer

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 7:57pm CST by MichaelB

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 5:19pm CST by Tim S

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 4:27pm CST by Triven

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 3:54pm CST by Triven

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 3:17pm CST by neo

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 1:31pm CST by Antionette

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 1:05pm CST by Garethmur

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 12:35pm CST by Collie

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 12:16pm CST by ziyaadb

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 11:46am CST by Louis Scheepers

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 10:23am CST by ziyaadb

Posted: February 25th, 2010, 8:55am CST by Ridwaan

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:56am CST by FransSny

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:30am CST by Tim S

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 5:58am CST by chikaboo

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 11:27pm CST by poiromaniax

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 10:14pm CST by lIghty

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 10:05pm CST by Dikbek

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 9:21pm CST by Fishman

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 9:21pm CST by Fishman

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:54pm CST by Reef E

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 7:48pm CST by Reef E

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 6:17pm CST by naughtydragons

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 5:31pm CST by lanzo

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 3:43pm CST by lIghty

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 3:22pm CST by leslie hempel

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 2:22pm CST by Moolis

Posted: February 24th, 2010, 11:43am CST by dallasg