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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 6:22am CDT by Dane
5:30 in the morning, I'm completely moeg from doing the 100th version of my masters project proposal and frankly rather gatvol of not getting any sleep. But i peeked into my fishtank to see my little clowns are hosting my xenia!! Woooooooooot!!! They've shown a passing interest before, but the two of them are actually fully snoozing in it side by side! Its brilliant! So chuffed! yipppeeeeeee! So cute! hahahaha
excuse my enthusiam :-)
ps: i have some crappy cellphone pics that dont cut the mustard, will get the camera out asap tho :-)
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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 10:35pm CDT by Adee
I've noticed in the last few weeks....something being deposited on the glass....and repeated scrapped it off when I did the weekly glass cleaning.
At first I thought it to be some time of larvae...but could not figure out from what though? I noticed 2 of my chromis (have a shoal of 15) kept swimming in short bursts against the glass with the bellies touching the glass, possibly the males fertilising?
the spawn, what it looks like.
and the closest macro shot I could to.
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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 8:36pm CDT by Cabby
hey guys, is there anybody that wants to sell a reef octopus TS2 or TS3 skimmer? i'm trying to find them second hand but it's turning out to be like finding a needle in a haystack.. thanks
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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 6:50pm CDT by Storm
Hello, Ive had my "main" leather coral for about 3 years now, for a little over a month it has not opened up at all, permanently sulking -_-... Ive tried moving it, ive tried water changes but i don't know anymore. I have successfully propagated it at least 5 times and the baby's in the tank are all doing fine and extending normally. So, any suggestions? It doesn't seem to be dead since I can see signs of it shedding its skin, but for more then a month and not moving at all? Suggestions plz...
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I got a copperband this week-end and until now, my foxface has been fairly shy, that is no more. The two of them seem to have made buddies with one another right away and do everything together. If 1 hides, so does the other, if 1 eats, so does the other, if 1 just swims around...basically everything together. Even sleep under the same rock next to one another, never seen this sort of thing before.
Is this sort of close relationships normal between different species?
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Recently got a green frog spawn and am feeding it coral grow (Red sea product).
Is this good or bad?
Please advise me on the above. And if i should feed it other foods what should it be.
Thanks in advance.
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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 4:53pm CDT by Adee
Hi, anyone close to me on the Westrand area...willing to part with some caulepra...please drop me a line.
Wanting to seed my refuige for my new set-up.
thanks
A
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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 3:08pm CDT by neo
Howdy,
I bought a blastomussa wellsi on saturday and it is showing the same symptoms as my green brain and the green brain died.
On saturday it looked fine but since sunday it was pulled back and today started showing its spiny scheleton 'teeth'.
I put it at same height as it was in the shop so lights should be fine.
tank is at 1.026 sg, 25deg temp, and all amonia nitrate etc are good.
my hermits, keneya, hammer, zoas, all ding fine.
I have no fish in my tank but feeding the tank elos svc.
Pls help, i dont want to loose it.
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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 2:05pm CDT by Slinky
Hi everyone. I am a newcomer to the whole marine tank experience. I have a Jewel 120l RIO. My idea was to start small and slow and upgrade as my experience grows.
The tank has been operating for two months with ~13kg live rock. WQ stabilised quicker than expected so started adding livestock as follows:
- 0 weeks - 10kg live rock
- 4 weeks - 2 clowns (+- 2cm ea), 2 hermits and 1 snail.
- 6 weeks - 2 more clowns (+- 2cm ea), 2 humbugs
- 8 weeks - added 3kg live rock, 1 scopa tang (+-4cm) and 1 cleaner shrimp
WQ has remained fairly stable but I undertake weekly 25l water changes. Given the age of the tank I did have some red algae and green filamentous algae which I physically removed. Since introducing the tang, the filamentous algae has gone.
Overall the livestock seems quite happy. I was especially pleased when red-legged hermit relocated to a shell I had added. All the invertebrates have already moulted once. The shrimp appears to have a cleaning station established. Would another cleaner shrimp work in this sized tank?
I found this forum through looking for RO water advice. I found RO water from a shop in Broadacres, Jhb but it's a mission from Hurlingham. Anyone know of quality RO supply closer to Sandton? I'm pondering the sense of buying a 5-stage RO filter - prices are ~R1900 compared to R1/l from the fish shop. Doesn't really make much financial sense but will save missioning to the shop on a weekly basis.
I'm feeding 1 frozen shrimp cube per day (half in the morning and evening). Any more and the tank seems to get cloudy. Is that sufficient? The tang likes it although I thought it was pure herbivore. I intend to also add some dried seaweed for the tang.
I'm keen to add a blue tang. Is there likely to be an issue with the existing scopa tang? I guess I am also interested what total number of livestock this RIO tank could support?
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Hey guys
I was sitting and doing nothing, so started going through the net and saw al the wooden stands. So I just want to know why are we building steel stands and not wood stands in SA. The reason why I ask is because it is easier to work with.
Please give your opinion.
Paul
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Hi Brenda
What should I do to keep an anemone happy and be successful in keeping it....?
Will I over stock my tank...?
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Hi guys...
Many of you know that I kept NPS coral, and recently decided to sell all my livestock and tank etc. etc. etc.
Some of you thought I was "divorcing" the hobby, but you were wrong...;) I have moved onto a new challenge, broadening my reefkeeping knowledge.
I have built a 3 Story weaning School, where I will be weaning (teaching) mostly mandarin fish and maybe seahorse and pipefish to take prepared frozen food, instead of having to eat live food.
Initially I thought about breeding mandarin, but I will not have the expertiese yet for that, and only once I am really geared up for it, will attemp it. I am hoping that I can wean broodstock for LuckyFish, and let him do the breeding. Then wean the fry again that comes from that... But he doesn't know that yet, so still need to discuss that with him.
I have no photos as yet, will post them soom, but let me tell you a bit more about the tank.
Top Floor (The Penthouse Suite):
For the display, I have a standard 2foot, divided in two compartments 300x300x300. This will allow me to "train" two fish at a time for now. The tanks have only a very thin layer substrate and one piece of live rock.
Second Floor (Chefs' Quarters):
The second story is a full 2foot refugium. In this tanbk I have a mineral mud substrate, and have macro algae growing here. This will be my main copepod and amphipod farm, where many of the mandarin's food will come from, till they take prepared food. Over this tank I have 3x 20W CFL spotlights a 3500K.
Bottom Floor (The Cleaners Quarters):
On the bottom floor, is a sump, with a DSB. This DSB has been build and closed entirely, to make it as dark as possible, thus creating a total/semi cryptic zone, for further life filtration. In here, I have the entire DSB covered under live rock rubble.
I will have no skimmer in this system. My reason for this, is that there will be quite a low bio load on the system, as there are only a few fish and no coral. Skimmers in this setup will also kill huge amounts of live food, which will be crucial for feeding the fish. I will however be dosing live brine shrimp, so there will not be no bio load. The natural / biological filtration should however be able to handle that.
The main reason behnd doing this, is the fact that the death ratio on mandarin and seahorse are so big in the industry, due to insufficient feeding. A very large system, that is very mature, can host these type of feeders, but generaly they still die after a few months...
I am hoping to help those that want to keep these fish, and does not have the time to wean them, to be able to keep them, alive and healthy, feeding on frozen foods.
If you are interested or always wanted to keep mandarins, but couldn't due to feeding issues, please give me an indication. I will start the school shortly, and then have you on the waiting list...;)
PS: Photos to follow within the next few days, just waiting for the mineral mud cloud to settle...:P
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Posted: May 31st, 2010, 11:40am CDT by CliveS
Hi all.
A week ago, I bought a Buyo 550 (138l). It comes complete with a WG308 skimmer and an HT 2100 100w heater. The lfs suggested that I get an extra pump to put inside the tank, pointing towards the surface, to help circulation and aeration. It's one of those little pumps with three sucker feet.
I filled with with RO water and Instant Ocean.
I have put a bag of Arag Alive reef sand into the tank and about 15kg of live rock.
No stock as the tank is maturing (see, I am learning :))
After 5 or 6 days of cycling, I noticed that the temperature was varying quite a lot, from 23.5 to around 26, so I thought that either the thermostat was not great, or that it was battling to cope with 138l of water. The data I can find on it, says that it is intended for 100l tanks.
I wanted to put a small 30 litre tank into the base of the Buyo for water prep and changes, so thought I would put this heater in the little tank and get two more heaters. It was suggested that I should look for a Jager heater, which I did this weekend, but only one lfs stocks Jager and they only have a 300w (I wanted to get 2 in case one went down). I bought two 100w Elite heaters, which the lfs chap assured me was a good make ???
Having put them in the tank and set both to 25, the following morning, I noticed that the temp was up to 27.5, so I switched them both off (unplugged them, in fact).
The only things running in the tank yesterday, were the skimmer, pump and the pump in the tank itself - both heaters were off. The lights were on.
Yesterday, it was quite chilly here in Joburg and about seven hours later, the water temp was still around 26.5.
Is this normal? What is an acceptable temperature fluctuation to expect from a heater? Are the new Elite heaters worthwhile?
I am also really battling with the skimmer... either the bubbles are too low or popping through the cap of the unit. Is this skimmer alright, or should I be looking for something else?
Thanks for the help.
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Posted: May 30th, 2010, 12:43am CDT by Dane
Hey all,
So, i've been keeping my little 2ft low tech nano going with a rubbish little 300l/hr internal canister filter. I put filter floss in which i change every three days or less! Today I wanted to buy a sunsun JVP 101 - just under R100 (good price?) but I saw that it was 5000L/hr (i'm sure this is overrated, as usual). It has a ceramic shaft (well, its not metal at least...)
Question is... even at 300L/hr, the flow isnt terrible in my tank. Surely 5000L/hr will turn my tank into a wirl pool? :-P Or would this be a good idea for the tank?
As for what corals I have... NO SPS, two small LPS - a frogspawn and a little purple trumpet. Softies are mostly zoas, one blue speckled finger leather, lots of xenia, polyps etc.
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hey to all
how do you guys take such good quality photos i have tried two differrent cameras
i cant seem to take good pics of my tank and stuff insid of it, is it the lighting i nont know:whistling:
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I have a maroon clown and for some weird reason, it is diggin in the back of my tank. I have a substantial creator which it has made it's home. It seems to be pretty well fixated to that spot in my tank, only swims about at feeding time, otherwise stays in the same place.
I was watching him carefully today and noticed that any "dirt" which may come into it's area, it picks up, swims out of it's area and spits it out. It did that with 2 or 3 mothfulls of sand too, then reversed up to it's chosen spot and shudders to clear away the substrate.
This particular clown doesn't seem to have any interest in hosting in any coral I put in the tank, but I have heard of some clowns not hosting in anything - here is the oddety in what this seems like, it is possible for the clown to be hosting in the substrate?? Or is there another reason why it is doing this?
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Posted: May 30th, 2010, 8:06pm CDT by H0nda42
Good day all, some pics taken a while ago of my tank. Thought I would send them out, to give an update of how things have gone. Tank is running smoothly, and will update after exam on Wed.

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Hey guys. My uncle has been pushing me to set up a frag tank for a while now and since my tank is doing pretty well i might be making the plunge this holiday after exams. I have two pumps i can put in as flow, which should be ample flow. I have a 250w mh setup lying around at home so i would probably only need to use that, and i'll hook it up to the current tank so no need for extra filtration. What i need to know is what depth of tank would be best here if i'm going to use the 250w mh?
Mods if i'm in the wrong section please move me there. Phone browsing and all..
Posted via Mobile Device
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Posted: May 30th, 2010, 7:28pm CDT by van
Hi
How can I reduce phosphate levels in my tank. Have done numerous waterchanges the past month, added phosphate remover and still no luck. I'm worried about my corals and the brown algae is unsightly. Levels on 0.5 currently. have just added cycle, will that increase the levels again. Am worried about wipe out occuring.
Thanks
Van
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Posted: May 30th, 2010, 7:02pm CDT by Annoying
I was surfing the web and found this amazing read on all you would want to know on keeping a sun coral. This is deffinetley the perfect site if you would want to keep a sun coral
here is the link but it's precisely the same (the power of copy and paste:P)
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/s...d.php?t=195870
Everything you want to know
Almost
Introduction
Family: Dendrophylliidae
Genus: Tubastraea (Latin: Tubus (Tube) Astron (Star))
Species: Tubastraea aurea (Quoy and Gaimard, 1833)
Tubastraea coccinea (Lesson, 1829)
Tubastraea diaphana (Dana, 1846)
Tubastraea faulkneri (Wells, 1982)
Tubastraea floreana (Wells, 1982)
Tubastraea micrantha (Ehrenberg, 1834)
Tubastraea tagusensis (Wells, 1982)
Tubastraea tenuilamellosa (Edwards and Haime, 1848)
Common Names: Orange / Black (
T. micrantha, T. diaphana) / Yellow / Green (
T. micrantha, T. diaphana) / Red /Sun coral, Cup coral, Tube Star, Black Turret Coral (
T. micrantha, T. diaphana), Tree Coral(
T. micrantha), Sunflower coral, Sun polyps, Tube coral, Daisy coral, Octopus coral (
T. micrantha, T. diaphana), Cave Coral.
Distribution: Australia, British Indian Ocean Territory, Cape Verde, Comoros, Djibouti, Egypt, Fiji, Hong Kong, China, India, Indonesia, Israel , Japan, Kenya, Korea, Madagascar , Malaysia, Sabah, Maldives, Mauritius : Rodrigues, Mozambique, Palau, Philippines, Saudi Arabia, Seychelles, Singapore, South Africa, Sudan, Taiwan, Province of China, Tonga, Brazil, Hawaii, Galápagos Islands.
Profile
Tubastraea is a non-Zooxanthellae coral of the family
Dendrophylliidae which inhabits overhangs, vertical surfaces, cave entrances, and in some instances the open reef. The reported depth range for
Tubastraea spp. is 37 m (Wells, 1982), but it has also been observed at a depths of 15m (Esther G.L. Koh, Hugh Sweatman), and 25m (Arthur G. Humes).
Tubastraea sp. are thought to be ahermatypic (non-reef building), but this classification is under going reappraisal, largely due to the growth rate and size of
T. micrantha.Despite the low calcification rate of
T. micrantha, the linear skeletal extension, in the form of arboreal type branches, is nothing short of rapid for a Azooxanthellae (does not contain Zooxanthellae) species. This rate of growth is directly comparable to the rates shown by many symbiotic, hermatypic (reef building) corals.
To further call into question the ahermatypic classification;
Tubastraea micrantha possesses one of the densest calcium carbonate skeletons amongst the order
Scleractinia, and as testament to the skeletal strength and tenacity of these animals, the "Black Sun Coral" was one of the few species of coral remaining on the Atoll reefs after the nuclear weapons testing, performed in the Pacific by the Americans in the 1960's.
Although the typical colours for
Tubastraea polyps are yellow through to orange; the range of polyp colours seen within nature and the aquaria (to a lesser agree) can be staggering such as green, brown, or white in the case of
T. micrantha. The spectacular diversity of colours is evident with-in the images below.
Tubastraea is a non photosynthetic coral, and as such, does not contain unicellular photosynthetic Zooxanthellae symbiants. Species from this genus do not require exposure to sunlight or specific lighting (within the aquaria) for the purposes of photosynthesis. That said,
Tubastraea spp. can and will tolerate varying light intensities. This is evident in nature by the coexistence and persistence of the non-symbiotic,
Tubastraea Micrantha, on the open reefs amongst the Western Caroline Islands (Republic of Belau).
Tubastraea Anatomy
Images: Authors own
Corallite: The skeletal material produced by a single polyp
Calice (pl. calices): A concave depression the end of the corallite that houses the polyp
Septum (pl. speta): These are skeletal plates that radiate into the calice from the theca (the corallite wall). The Septum is also sometimes referred to as; scleroseptum
Coenosteum (pl. coenostea): The skeletal material between walls of adjacent corallites.
Coenosarc: The fleshy / skin type tissue covering coenostea and corallites.
Tentacle: A nematocyst-laden appendage used to capture prey, and also for defence / offence.
Oral disc: The broad area of tissue between the mouth and polyp tentacles.
Mouth: The mouth is a sphincter (ring of muscle) that open and closes to allow passage of food / waste to and from the Gastro Vascular cavity.
Gastro vascular cavity: The gut of the polyp.
Mesenterial filaments: The Gastro vascular cavity is divided into sections by these muscular curtains of tissue, which are used for digestion and polyp retraction / extension.
Feeding Methods and Handling
Due to the lack of Zooxanthellae,
Tubastraea spp. MUST be fed by the aquarist between 2-7 times a week to maintain health and growth, for
Tubastraea micrantha daily feeding is required. **This is not a coral for the lazy**. It is believed that each polyp must be individually fed on meaty offerings such as vitamin enriched brine / Mysis shrimp and krill along with other foods along the lines of, chopped mussel, squid, Cyclop-eze, etc. It is believed that using live Brine shrimp as a part of the corals diet will increase the intensity of the coral colour, especially in the case of orange / yellow specimens.
When choosing a "sun coral" at a local fish shop, it is desirable to look for a specimen that is already feeding and shows little sign of starvation. A feeding specimen can be recognised as it will look puffed up or plump, especially after food is placed in the tank. Consider asking your local stockist to add some food to the corals holding tank, or ask what time they normally feed the coral, and if you can be present.
The tell-tale signs of an under-fed or malnourished animal are relatively easy to spot; such as clearly showing calices (cups), the coenosarc (flesh / skin) covering the cups will also appear to be extremely thin and taut. The presence of excessive algae growth may sometimes indicate a possible weakness. If your specimen already has algae present then every effort should be made to carefully remove the intrusion without causing damage.
After transportation and acclimatisation, a newly acquired sun coral may-be reluctant to expand its tentacles in preparation for feeding. These tentacles are used to capture and incapacitate prey which range in size from planktonic forms to small fish. One way of coaxing the polyps to expand and open, is to very gently waft / blow a small amount of brine shrimp juice, Phyto-plankton, Cyclop-eze, or, Coral Vibrance over the cups of the coral.
Images courtesy of: Steve Margetts
If, after several days and nights (sometimes a couple of weeks) of "wafting"the polyps still fail to show any sign of opening, its possible that the coral may no longer have sufficient energy remaining to expand, as a result the slow process of starvation will begin, along with tissue thinning and recession, eventually leading to death.
What is meant by,
sufficient energy remaining? What the author is referring to is stored Nitrogen and Phosphorous within the coral skeletal body. In the absence of food the coral can use the store to sustain life for a number of weeks if the coral was in good health prior to harvesting, etc. Unfortunately with some corals the process of actually getting to a reefers system is a drawn out stressful affair, and often goes without any food from harvest to purchase.
Interestingly, although it is commonly thought that each polyp of the colony is a separate animal, and as such do not share ingested nutrients, the back-up energy supply is a common store held with in the porous skeleton for the good of the entire colony.
On a brighter note, its not all doom and gloom. Once
Tubastraea is accepting your meaty offerings and the feeding regime is maintained, its a hardy inhabitant that will reward you with a daily stunning display of large, usually intensely coloured polyps, and in time daughter colonies within the aquarium (see, reproduction).
Once the coral is opening enough for you to feed, there are various methods of delivering food stuffs to the polyps that can be employed.
If the coral is to be fed within the aquarium, the simplest means is to use a syringe or turkey baster to deliver foods such as
Mysis, and
Artemia to the oral disc and tentacles of the polyp. Care must be taken during this process, if the food is released with to much pressure or the polyp is poked, it will contract and youll be unable to fed, until it re-expands.
When feeding within the aquarium, the food offered to the coral may be stolen by shrimps, who will actually remove the food from the gut of the coral. One method of combating this is to cover the coral will half a fizzy drinks bottle or similar, this is sometimes known as the top hat method. Another method of fending off unwanted visitors is to guard the coral with an acrylic rod; this method is preferred where the colonies are too large when expanded to be contained within the top hat.
An alternative method to feed this wonderful animal is to remove the coral from the aquaria in a suitably sized container. To carry out this procedure it is necessary to submerge the container, pick the coral up by its underside (scoop it up with an open hand) and place within the container, ensuring complete water coverage of the coral during removal always allowing for polyp expansion. Once the polyps have expanded, feeding can commence with your chosen foods. Once the coral has moved the food down to its gut, it may be returned to the aquarium by reversal of the above procedure.
In the authors opinion, this method should not be your first choice. Constant handling may cause stress and damage to the coral.
When handling the coral, great care must be taken as, although the main skeletal body is strong, the coenosarc, corallites and calices are fragile and easily damaged. Under no circumstances should the coral be removed from the water and exposed to the air if the polyps are extended. The result of such action can be torn tissue around the calice edge which, in some instances may be irreparable.
When feeding
Tubastraea, it is important to remember that it is very easy to increase the NO3 (Nitrates), PO4 (Phosphates) and dissolved organics within the system due to the regurgitation of food (if it had eyes, they'd definitely be bigger than its belly), and food that "escapes" the polyps un-checked whilst feeding within the aquarium. There are many ways around this problem; ample detritus eaters or scavengers amongst the clean-up crew, heavy skimming and high flow, algae scrubber sumps, removing uneaten food, removing the coral for feeding (note: doesnt help with regurgitation), regular water changes, and of course, only feeding little and often.
The Captive Environment
As with all Stony corals, algae cover, NO3 and PO4 are detrimental to the health of
Tubastraea colonies. Water parameters in the range of 24-28°C, Specific Gravity 1.024-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, dKH 8-10 would ideally be adhered to for continued health. Excessively high dKH, PO4 and / or NO3 can lead to rapid recession of the coenosarc.
Poor water quality, namely high nitrates and poor levels of dissolved oxygen, can lead to the coral failing to expand and may lead to a possible event called polyp bail-out. This is where a polyp exits its calcium carbonate cup and becomes free swimming. In nature, when a polyp bails out, it will seek a better location and settle upon a rock or similar, to begin laying down a new corallite and in time a form new colony.
If the bail-out occurs in the home aquaria the polyp will unfortunately fail to survive, due to being unable to find cleaner, more oxygen rich areas.
As mentioned previously,
Tubastraea spp. are a part of the family
Dendrophylliidae and do not contain Zooxanthellae and do not require light for the purpose of photosynthesis. That said, it doesnt mean that the aquarist has to place his / her prize
Tubastraea in a cave or under a ledge. The prevalent myths which state that
Tubastraea sp. are found in caves and overhangs, because their in-tolerant to light, is a complete fabrication. The reason these corals are found in such areas is because of nutrient levels. Caves and overhangs etc are naturally rich gathering areas for zooplankton and other small food sources, and is possibly the sole reason for the presence of
Tubastraea.
If acclimatised to avoid possible UV burning, Sun Corals will tolerate moderate to strong light. As an example, Tubastraea micrantha, as mentioned previously, are commonly found on open reefs amongst light demanding stony coral species such as
Acropora sp.
**Warning** If you are going to place the coral in moderate to strong light, remember that you increase the risk of algae growth upon the coral, especially if the coenosarc has receded between the corallites exposing the coenosteum. Another important point to remember when picking a location for the coral in the aquarium is;
Above all, make sure that you can get to the coral for easy feeding.
Tubastraea sp. prefers an alternating, moderate (to strong, for
T. micrantha and
T. diaphana ) water movement, which will also serve to keep the coral free from detritus build up. Heavy protein skimming will aid water quality and help keep the levels of dissolved organics low within the reef aquaria, which are easily elevated when feeding a coral regularly. If detritus does build up between the corallites and is not removed, the coral may become smothered by cyanobacterial algae (
Oscillatoria spp.), which, if left unchecked, will destroy the coenosarc lying underneath.
Reproduction
Tubastraea sp. are know to reproduce by the means of Gametes (sperm and eggs), egg sperm packets / bundles, brooded planulae larvae (free swimming larvae), budding and polyp division. If well-fed and kept in good health, colonies will readily reproduce in their captive environments.
Both
T. faulkneri and
T. coccinea are reported to be hermaphroditic (each mature colony contains both male and female reproductive structures) and can reproduce by the means of planulae larvae, budding and division.
Planulae larvae is produced when a male polyp is triggered into releasing sperm, by chemical messages given out by a female polyp. This sperm then swims into the female where it meets her egg and the process of internal fertilisation begins.
The resulting larva is formed with-in the female (known as brooding) and when developed its released from the polyp and becomes free swimming. When the larvae, which is approximately 1.6mm long, settles upon a rock, etc, it will quickly turn into a tiny polyp (or two) and begin laying down a new skeleton. From this point the polyp is able to bud and divide, thus creating an entirely new colony.
Image: Daniela Stettler
The above image shows a mature T. coccinea polyp releasing planulae larvae.
It is possible to identify whether the settled larva was spawned by
T. faulkneri or
T. coccinea, by the amount of polyps the larva develops into. A newly settled larva from faulkneri normally develops two polyps, where coccinea will develop a single polyp.
Images: Authors own
The above image shows some T. coccinea offspring, and a size comparison against a Copepod.
It is also possible for a new colony to establish though budding alone. A newly formed bud can brake away from the mother tissue and either float or crawl across rock / substrate to a new settlement point.
Tubastraea aurea is believed to be a gonochoric coral (male and female reproductive structures are in separate male and female colonies) and as such, it breeds via the release of gametes. As with other gonochoric corals, IE Acropora sp, the release of sperm from the males and eggs from the females is synchronised using the phases of the moon and the resulting temperature variations. Once the egg has been externally fertilised, a larvae is developed
Tubastraea micrantha and
Tubastraea diaphana are reported to be a brooders, and reproduce in the same manner as
T. faulkneri and
T. coccinea.
In fact
Tubastraea aurea appears to break the generalisation that all members of the family
Dendrophylliidae are brooding corals.
references:
Roger Hughes
Ultimate Reef
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Hey guys yesterday I finally caught two glass shrimp which are half the size of my cleaner shrimp & I put them in the dt with my other inverts & all was ok until now which has been 24hrs. I actually watching this as it happens where the glass shrimp are exploring the tank then the two monsters started to pick on the smallest glass shrimp then they pester the larger one for a while. So far it doesn't look too serious but do you think the cleaner shrimp are trying to say something like get these guggers outa here?:whistling:
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Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has experience with this.
As a bit of an experiement on a boring sunday afternoon I decided to try this. I plugged an airpump into the intake of my new TS1 skimmer instead of letting the TS1 pump draw air in from the atmosphere.
The reasoning? Most skimmers are over-supplied with water & under-supplied with air using the venturi/ waterpump method of producing bubbles...at least that is what I have heard. However old-school airstone driven skimmers have proven to be inefficient & hard to clean.
Sooo plugging an airpump into the intake of a pump-driven skimmer may perhaps give the best of both worlds. I used the idea as the same as a turbocharger on a car - an engine is basically a giant airpump - so if you increase the pressure of the air entering the engine using a turbo (or in the case of a skimmer using an airpump) you make it run more efficiently for it's size.
Results: I have observed that post plugging in the airpump to the intake the skimmer bubbles seem to fill the reaction chamber more & go deeper into the chamber - which obviously is a good thing - more bubbles & more contact time = more skimmate.
Too early to determine if there is an increase in the quantity of skimmate produced. Given more bubbles & more contact time there should be - HOWEVER there are possible threats to this being more efficient:
Cavitation on the pump - if the amount of bubbles is increased too much the pump may cavitate & loose performance & reliability - this may be ameliorated by sizing a pump correctly, using a t-piece with a tuneable release valve & the like.
Bubbles may be numerous, but too big - lots of big bubbles make crappy skimmate - Time will tell. I think due to the design of the pump - the bubbles being chopped up by the needle wheel impeller it shouldn't make a quantitative difference to the size of the bubbles whether they are introduced at atmospheric pressure or above. Mesh wheel pumps may benefit even more from this?
All in all a fun little experiement - had a spare quiet airpump around & thought what the hell? The skimmer actually runs quieter with the pump on the intake than with just an open tube to atmosphere - however the silence valve supplied with the skimmer makes it run slightly quieter than the airpump.. very close though.
So has anyone got experience with this?
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I have not idea what is wrong with my Candy Cane Coral.
It has some cyano on it so I got stuck in and gently cleaned it up on Tuesday, because of the nooks and crannys I used a toothpick but didn't interfere with the soft tissue.
Since then, it appears to be very ill. It is sunken in and of the 20-25 heads, maybe 3 are slightly protruded. Most of the heads appear to have shriveled quite a bit and I fear it is dying, is this a reaction which is to be expected of it because it had been handled and I may anticipate recovery or is this signs of simply dying off?
I target fed with a mix of Zooplankton and Phytoplankton, all the heads which appeared almost lifeless showed movement when I fed but didn't improve. Almost all the mouths are open constantly which is confusing.
I don't know what sort of treatment to consider but I don't want it to die. :(
Every other coral is the complete opposite in that their growth and health is better than ever, the fish are all eating well and nothing is out of sorts - other than this candy cane. I figured it of a similar nature to an open brain coral, so why the Candy cane looking ill and not the brain - the brain is the healthiest looking of the whole system...
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Posted: May 29th, 2010, 8:24pm CDT by rajah
Hi Guys
I have wanted to start a marine tank for a few years now, and for various reasons put it off, until now! I've decided to start out with a Juwel 260.
I want to setup a reef tank, and would appreciate all the advice I can get! You guys seem to be the legends on this subject :thumbup:
I am hoping to get started tomorrow, but before I did I wanted to get all my ducks in a row. So please help me out cos I want to get this right.
I have the standard Juwel filter, a 500L powerhead, T5 Lighting - one HiLite Day and one Blue, a Prizm Deluxe Protein Skimmer, canister filter.
I was hoping to get some proper water from the sea (being in Durban) but I have heard conflicting stories about this. Can anyone please clear this up?
What I wanted to know was if there is a "setup guide" on starting from day 1, how to prepare the water and what to and what not to put into the tank?
I am new to this so any advice will be greatly appreciated!
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hi everyone
i need help, my goldy has pop eye. does anyone have some advice on a cure for my little guy
xx
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Posted: May 29th, 2010, 5:54pm CDT by Diveshan
Howzit guys i need some help, I just bought two colonies of these birds nests, How high should they be under 250W halides? they came from under 150W, also my flow isn't very high due to my LPS population, will this affect them negatively? Are they generally hardy or more of the sensitive type?
Thanks
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I am sorry if you have already seen this but i just nearly wet myself watching it, its the music that really makes it funny :rofl:Turn sound up aswell!!!
YouTube- Shrimp Running On A Treadmill With The Benny Hill Theme
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Posted: May 29th, 2010, 5:28pm CDT by Annoying
Hey everyone!
Just a quick thaught... Have any of you guys made your own coral food for your corals? I was thinking of a mix of artemia,lobster eggs and crushed shrimps. It's mainly for LPS corals. Any idea if it would be OK for them. It will also be great if you guys can post your recipe of coral food.
Thanks
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Posted: May 29th, 2010, 5:17pm CDT by H0nda42
Good day all, my Yellow Angel took a turn this morning for no apparent reason. My tank has been running for over 8 months with no losses, and just tested parameters which all seem to check out. The Angel started acting up yesterday where he kept swimming in 1 specific area of the tank (in line with the powerhead flow) and did not move the whole day.
My wife picked this up and said something was wrong, of which everything seemed fine as he was still swimming freely, just not moving from the spot. His gills looked exceptionally red which we could see through the yellow of his body, but this was the only indication something was wrong.
Today he is on his way out and cannot seem to swim and is simply lying around breathing very heavily. I placed him in the sump after the Flame Angel began attacking his once he took a turn. Any ideas? Do I remove him before he dies? Do I move my fish? Do I treat the tank? If so, what treatment? I will appreciate any feedback or advice.
Thanks.
My stock is:
2 Cleaner shrimp
2 Flame Goby's
2 Orange Spot Gobies
2 Clown
6 Chromis
1 Regal
1 Flame
1 Tang (Browny color - but close up has nice white speckles)
1 Anenome
2 Pincushions
640 l tank
200l sump
Skimmer rate for 1500l.
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Posted: May 29th, 2010, 5:03pm CDT by 459b
Im busy settng up a few frag tanks and am a bit stumped on what lights to put in. I will be growing softies and maybe some LPS and SPS in the future.
The tank is 120X 45X 12cm.
I think T5's might be the best, but have been reading up on CFL and have read some good reviews on them.
What would your suggestion be ie. T5 or CFL, colour temp of T5, number of CFL etc.
thanks.
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Posted: May 29th, 2010, 4:43pm CDT by Dane
Hey guys,
came across this link in my meanderings.... what do you think? Seems a good breakdown...
http://www.americanaquariumproducts...._Lighting.html
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Fish for saleCommon Name: purple or red fin butterfly
Scientific Name: Chaetodon Trifasciatus
Size of fish 6 cm in lenth
How long have you had the fish? 5 days
Is the fish eating? nori daily
Shipping or Collection only: collection
Your location. gauteng east rand
Price: swop for powder blue or WHY
Photo's:
Notes: im getting rid of him due to fact that he is eating my galaxy coral
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Posted: May 29th, 2010, 1:41pm CDT by Dikdaan
My current tank:
Pair of Clarkii Clown,
Pair tomato clown (Small)
Bangai Cardinal X2
Starfish
Hermits +- 15
Sand shifting dollar X1
magnifica anemone
Pin cushion (1 big, 5 small)
Kenya tree X2
Various polyps and zoa's
I want to add a boxer shrimp and a fire goby...
Will this be fine for my tank?
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Hey, you know that blue coral skeleton you get sometimes on live rock, usually fiji live rock, well look what i found at the shell shop in gordons bay
Got another big one in my DT and 2 more in sump, its got amazing porosity and pods breed in the holes like crazy. jus wanna know wht ppl think :thumbup:
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 11:54pm CDT by Stackrat
Hi all.
I'm new to the marine world and have just set up a Juwel 240l tank. Been cycling for 8 weeks now with live rock 20kg and a phosphate reactor.
Just added the usual beginners clowns x 2 and they seem happy:thumbup:
It's great to see a marine forum from SA and it has been making me homesick reading all your posts. I'm sure I'll learn a lot from you though.
Thanks guys.
Cheers.
Tim
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 7:09pm CDT by candy
Hi all,
Just discovered through some reading that my tank has ich. Please advise what i can do tonight? Should I do a water change? How much seawater and how much RO water? I have an anti-ich for a tropical tank, can it be used for a marine tank? Please guys, I am a beginner so simple english is needed. :)
All the articles have these long explanations advising different things...what is the best way to solve the problem. most of my fish aren't eating and my goldie is very lethargic...
please help!
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 7:07pm CDT by van
Hi everyone
I am very excited to join the site. I have been into marine fish for about 20 years. It is hard to believe how everything has changed over the years. I currently have a serious problem with phosphate levels and reducing it. Trying to sort out by doing frequent waterchanges but have to head down to Margate every time. Home base is Kokstad.KZN. Can anybody suggest a good phosphate remover.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Will post photos asap
Cheers
Van
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 6:26pm CDT by lanzo
Hi guys
Dorry Pets Centurion
Dorry Pets Cape Town
Will be receiving stock on Wednesday allot of corals....Pictures will be upoaded later this week after corals and fish settled in.
Fish wil only be for sale 1 week after shipment was received...we want to give our clients the best stock;)
Best Regards
Lanzo and Dorry Pets Group
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good day to all
I want to go to the lfs tomorrow and buy more LR and maybe fish, I do not have any
fish at the moment, i only got starfish ,crabs and hermit crabs roaming my tank. I
have had my tank going for over 9 months. Can i put LR and fish at the same time(day).
if any one can help thanks:wave2:
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 3:34pm CDT by CliveS
Hi. It is great to be here.
I have been wanting to get a marine tank for many years, but the cost of it was a little daunting and the prospect of killing off livestock was even more so.
Last week, I saw a small Buyo 550 aquarium and thought that this was safer than a big tank and I took the plunge. My logic being that I can always 'go bigger' when I feel a little more comfortable.
I feel guilty at asking questions already, but hope no one objects?
The Buyo instructions were in Chenglish and I don't have a dictionary. The first issue I had, was with the positioning of the WG308 skimmer. After a few days, I realised that the top of the skimmer should be just a little higher than the water level. Is that right?
I then played with the level at which the bubbles reach and settled on about three quarters of the way up the tube. It always seems to change on its' own, though, and tends to go higher, overflowing into the cup. Is this skimmer a waste of time and should I be looking at a better one? The cup is full of clean water.
I put a pack of Carib Sea Arag Alive Reef Sand into the tank.
Here is my next question... I bought about 15kgs of live rock and put it in the tank, which had only just been filled with RO water and salt mix (I tested the salinity and it was fine) but the temperature was not up to 25 degrees at that stage. It was around 16 degrees when I put in the live rock in. Would that kill off critters? The guy at the lfs said that I could expect to see some colour develop on the rock with three to four days. Nothing yet.
I then tested the water and got a ph of 8.4, NO2 of 0 and NH3 of 0.5.
Since then (this was a week ago) I have tested the water again and it is still on a PH of 8.4, NO2 of 0 and NH3 of 0.05. I forgot to test for NO3, which I will do from now on!!
I have noticed some miniscule little pin pricks that go darting all over the tank. They often go up to the surface and then jet back down again. What are these little chaps? There are loads of them.
The rock seems to be letting of gas, with numerous tiny bubbles being released.
I have also been wondering about the temperature. It goes from as low as 23.5 up to 25.4. Maybe I should invest in a second heater?
So many questions, for which I apologise, but don't want to rely solely on the lfs for advice.
Thanks so much for reading this and hopefully, for helping.
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 3:06pm CDT by milflo
Hi guys
I'm looking for an Aqua Medic OR6500.
Please let me know if you've got one you wouldn't mind parting with.
Thanks
Miles
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For the last week now one of my 2 Sebae Clown fish has been basically been hiding under some live rock she as the bigger of the 2 clowns has not been coming out when i feed and it has become a bit of a concern. she doesn't seem to be breathing heavily nor does she show any signs of disease.
I know that when 2 clowns are introduced to a tank usually they will battle it out a little before deciding who is the female. this is the reason i got her a bit bigger that the other and they did not seem to fight.
They were extremely happy swimming around the same area together but all of a sudden shyness prevailed and unde the rock she went.
Any ideas?
I have 2 Domino damsels in the tank that dont seem to be giving anything but the chromis a bit of trouble.
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HI ALL,
WE HAVE RECEIVED AN AMAZING FISH SHIPMENT.:thumbup:
ASFUR ANGELFISH,PURPLE TANGS,SOHAL TANGS,COPPERBAND BUTTERFLYFISH,NAVARCHUS/MAJESTIC ANGELFISH,YELLOW TANGS,BLUE-RINGED ANGELFISH,BLACK PERCULA CLOWNFISH,VARIOUS DAMSELFISH,FIREFISH,CLOWN TRIGGERFISH ,CLAMS AND VARIOUS OTHERS.
PLEASE CALL AT OUR SHOP FOR ANY MARINE REQUIREMENTS ,REMEMBER AQUAMEDIC SALT AT R690/20KG.
BE WELL,
CHEERS FOR NOW,
IDOL MARINE CREW.:)
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 11:17am CDT by Moolis
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my dad bought this for me 4 days ago , and he cant remember what it was please can i have a id , he is about 6cm in lenght
thank you all
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 11:10am CDT by Moolis
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 9:38am CDT by Ash
Does anyone know of 2 or 3 companies which build glass fish tanks to specs in or around Durban?
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Posted: May 28th, 2010, 8:12am CDT by greenie
Hi,
I have read that some people use sugar to lower nitrate levels. Was just wondering whether this is true, what will the long term effects be?
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Posted: May 27th, 2010, 10:42pm CDT by Rax123
hi, can anyone help suggest ways of reducing noise from my over flow. Got new tank, did a test run to make sure tank hold up well, every fine so far except for loud slurping ( whirl pooling thro the down pipe to sump) sound. Pic included to show over flow and plumbing...
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Single Coral for saleCommon Name:Kenya Tree
Scientific Name:-
Size of coralApprox 10cm x 10cm
How long have you had the coral?Approx 3 months
Shipping or Collection only:to be discussed
Your location.Boksburg, Eastrand, Gauteng
Price:Swap
Photo's:
Notes:I have a Kenya Tree which is about 10cm tall by 10cm across, I would like to trade with a fellow reefer for another coral with something wich has more color, majority of my tank is shades of browns and would like to get some color into the setup. Let me know if you are interested, I am open to negotiation should you have a smaller coral which I could grow to size.
This isn't the best pic of it but you get a pretty good idea, this is the actual coral.
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Posted: May 27th, 2010, 8:47pm CDT by vatso
All West Rand people
there will be a power cut from 10:00PM - 06:00AM tomorrow
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Posted: May 27th, 2010, 6:09pm CDT by Qaiser
Was just wondering which is better
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Posted: May 27th, 2010, 5:06pm CDT by dallasg
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Posted: May 27th, 2010, 3:34pm CDT by aXe
Howzit all...
Just joined MASA...i have a 2m x 80 x 80 predator tank with a 5 ft sump...i have a sand shark (70cm),snowflake eel (60cm ),dogfaced puffer,spotted grouper,nigger trigger and a few hermit crabs...i am very happy with my tank...i just had a hassle with my shark...he had a "goiter"...he wouldnt eat at all...after some research we found out he needed iodine in his diet...i bought iodine from a chemist...put 2 drops into his kingklip fillet...and wow...after 2 weeks he was as good as new and eating well...i feed my fish every four days healthily...and still put 2 drops of iodine in his fillets...
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Posted: May 27th, 2010, 2:46pm CDT by maj
.....rewarding peice of Livestock to observe in your tank?
Does SPS ,LPS or Softies seem more attractive
Does Tangs,Triggers,Angels or school of Anthias make your setup more appealing?
All in all,try to name one item in your current setup that is the BIGGEST attraction.
I would say my Torch Coral -Lurve LPS:thumbup:
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Posted: May 27th, 2010, 12:14pm CDT by Fischer
Hi!
New to MASA...
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sorry admin....i don't know is right place or not...if wrong place remove please
i am looking for someone have experience keep marine and fresh water or ANYONE know someone have interest the job...can do fish tank pumping and electic work....able to do new tank set up and maintain...working in TABLEVIEW CAPE TOWN area....who interest send pm for me your CV,EXPERIENCE,EMAIL ADDRESS AND CELL NUMBER......i will contect you :thumbup:
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I have a bit of a concern/problem and hope a few different views can help me.
My DT has glass sliders which close the top of the tank, I have maintained these because I have a wooden canopy, so to prevent moisture from damaging it - I actually installed them as part of the tank rebuild. What I have noticed is a great deal of humidity on the underside of the glass which is blocking a massive volume of light. I have taken them out tonight just to have a look at te system but noticed about a good 10%-20% improvement in my lighting to my corals...
Do I risk dammaging the inside of the canopy buy leaving them off or should I put them back. Lets keep in mind that it is an open back canopy, it is only closed on the 3 sides and on top with the fold down lid. So there is an escape route for both moisture and heat, however the moisture will only really begin escaping properly when the lights come on, at lights out, it leaves the canopy exposed to moisture - as well as the lights considering they are mounted inside the canopy (obviously).
What ideas or suggestions do we have out there amoungst my fellow reefers??
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Posted: May 26th, 2010, 11:35pm CDT by RiaanP
I'm running Ozone now for three weeks. Not fully automated with fancy equipment. Only running for 30 minutes in the morning and again 30 minutes early evening.
My skimmer got a 20mm flexible tube on its air inlet, call it a breather pipe. That pipe goes out the window. So it sucks fresh air from outside.
My Ozone unit is a Hailea HLO-800 unit. With small little air pump connected to it. Both on same electronic timer. From the outlet I got a long airline hose, that goes into the 20mm breather pipe of the skimmer. Long enough to go all the way down up to the venturi.
Well my water is clear. Very clear. No more yellowing. And even with only 4 T5 tubes on, and on a tank where water is 700mm deep I still have a lot of light penetration. Well a light meter should give the answer. The skimmer, not sure if it does push out more than usual. It is a AquaMedic Shorty and it always skim dry. But boy, thick really smelly skimmate that it collects.
Well, now my question. The Orb or Redox meter. What should the reading be? Will or should I get different readings when lights are off or on? What should an ideal reading be? Currently about 190. What should RO water be?
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What is this guy, he only opens at night. A zoa or anemone maybe?
during the day

during lights out
i started feeding him tonight to see what happens
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Coral Gardening on Vimeo
i Think very intresting
sorry for my English
Jürgen
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Posted: May 26th, 2010, 7:03pm CDT by RUAN
Hi guys/gals
My grandfather is a canary breeder and he is selling all his stock.This is what is up for grabs:thumbup:
44 canaries(Redfactors;Borders;Glosters;Yorkshires)
1 large cage
17 breeding cages
and all accessories
The price is R10000.00 for everything
Price is neg.
If any one is interested or knows of somebody who is, please contact him on the following:
Thanks:wave2:
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I have always stayed away from the super expensive salts like reef crystals and instant ocean, my question is, does anyone use these salts and are they worth the price because at the end of the day, salt is salt right? they might have more calcium and Mg or whatever in but is it really worth the price??? :whistling:
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Posted: May 26th, 2010, 3:49pm CDT by Tidy
Hi Guy would like to know if a HID Car head light will work on a tank??
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Posted: May 26th, 2010, 3:39pm CDT by gaboon
I fragged a large SPS on Sunday, noticed this morning a few pieces with flesh literally disintigrating, (a mounted frag in display tank and about 4 pieces in frag tank).
Why is this?
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This is my heteractis malu, or i think its a malu anyways. he is very chilled and never eats any fish and due to the placement of my m/halide, he stays where he is. ive seen my damsel and my blenny benny touch the tentacles but nothing happens. had him for 6 months and i feed him mussel meat( mussel without the shell) and my clowns love him :P. the 5cent piece is there for reference
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Has anyone actually :020: whilst cleaning out their skimmer cup?
I was cleaning out my cup the other day and nearly blew some chunky pieces...The smell was seriously rank - I was just wondering if anyone with a weak stomach, or not so weak fr that matter, had the smell just hit them in a way which made them get sick.:001_stongue:
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Posted: May 26th, 2010, 1:28pm CDT by amalick
Hardware for saleThread title: Aquamedic Easyline 150 RO Unit for sale or swop
Location: Cape Town
Shipping or Collection only: both
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: I am looking for R850 neg (it retails for R1450 new) but would be prepared to swop for livestock of similar value.
I am willing to ship at buyers cost, but would prefer collection in Cape Town
Notes: I upgraded this RO unit about 1 week ago for a Waterboy Reef Master Plus unit since I decided to move from NSW to SSW and my RO volume requirments have more than trippled.
The unit has served me well for 1 year now and still produces RO with a TDS of under 5ppm as it did when new. Given that I only used it for daily top up requirements and the TDS reading it is still giving I would guess that the membrane still has a long lifespan left in it. (+/- 2 years)
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Posted: May 26th, 2010, 12:52pm CDT by dallasg
Here is a list of items that all reefers should have available to deal with those emergencies. by no means complete but these are nice essentials
- Spare 2ft tank or plastic container to keep live stock, eg butcher bins from plastic world
- 20% of tank volume of RO water
- 20% of tank volume of SW water
- heater
- battery air pump + tubing + airstone
- insulation tape + duct tape
- small pump
- various tubing
- towels
- hydrogen peroxide - aka liquid oxygen
- Bag of Salt
- de-chlorinator for real emergencies when tap water is needed
- fish net
- tongs
- silicone
- ups / inverter / generator
- multiplugs and extension cords
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Posted: May 26th, 2010, 10:03am CDT by Kunhardt
I have had my Green Mandarin for over a year now all going well and now a friend is taking down his tank and asked if I wanted his Spotted Mandarin.
Will there be a problem in my 6ft tank? I have heard that Mandarins are not very sociable and can fight heavily with their own kind even when its same species and male and female, how will it work out with two males of different species?
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i would like to know what this is i have 2 in my tank , they open like polyps with small blueish tenticals
thank you
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Ok this is a stupid question...
But is there a way to cut the glass at the top of my tank to create a second overflow within the existing overflow...to attach a small chamber on the side with a hole in the bottom to feed a sump...?
The other alternative is to install a chamber at a higher place ...feed it with a suction pump and gravity feed back to the main tank...or ad a canister...but this still leaves me with no skimmer...
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 10:59pm CDT by Evo R
Hi mods:
I was wondering why dont you guys create a fixed list of sorts so that everyone who is a member of this forum can log their detials eg. everyone from cpt together jhb ect.
Reason:
Say that my tank should burst now(touch wood)...... i dont know of any members near me(MosselBay) that could keep my LS incase of an emergance.
Also what clubs are where ect.
And maybe a section with all the guru details?eg. your nennie is sick,ask Brenda.
You want to know something about a tank design,ask Leslie.
This is just a thought!
And if you do decide to do this,maybe only make it availible for registered members for privacy perposes.
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 9:12pm CDT by vatso
Hi peeps
can we get a collection going of marine stuff we going to throw out & then bring that stuff to the reef meetings once a month & or when people on the site needs some help "free stuff" we can give it to them?
Maybe a sponsor could keep this stuff or a reefer? like the JHB MASA chairman?
what you think peeps?
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 8:16pm CDT by Tidy
Hi Guy
Just setup my 28000l Koi pond.
so now was think about getting a marine tank too.
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I live in gordons bay and i am looking for CO2 for my calcium reactor but i cant find a place where they can fill my cylinder. Where do you guys get your CO2 from??
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 5:55pm CDT by Stavros
OK i have a 15gallon reef tank
I have 15 pounds of live rock + 4 cm of like sand
MY filtration at the moment is 2 big sponges ( 15)cm then bio balls ( Not sure what goes onto of that ill cheack) then another sponge, water is then pumped back into the system...
To me this is a useless filtration system for a reef tank!
My new idea
My filtration system is divided into 3 sections. The first section is where the sponges are.
Ok i whant a filtration media box... It is divided into 4 -3 parts seperated by a layer of glass with holes in.
OK in pannel one ill have in the first media chamber, filter floss then ill have stuff like carbon then ill have purigen in one compartment then bio balls in the next.
Next tank chamber ill have quiet a bit of bioballs then one top of that ill have something like posban. Then i see that i have about 25 cm of space so i was thinking of doing a little refuge :thumbup: with an under water light! There illl grow algea to export nitrate.
the reason why is that the next chamber is where the pump is and all the little pods will be transported into the aquarium without going through a filtration system
I wont use a skimmer as i feel that all this filtration + water changes will be sufficient enough. SO a skimmer will be a wast of money.
PLEASE comment on my future stoking plans!!
5 dwarf hermits
3 snails
1 cleaner shrimp
2 clown fish
1 goby pistol shrimp pair
CORALS
mushrooms
brain corals
the hardy shit:razz:
SO what do u THink????:1:
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 4:45pm CDT by ted.vanh
Hi Guys,
can someone please help me. I bought a metal halide unit with 2 x 150w bulbs. I replaced the magnetic ballast with an electronic ballast. Since doing so I have a small problem in that evryday when the MH's come on both bulbs light up and after about 3 hours the one bulb goes off not to come on again until the next day when the whole cycle starts again.
Could this be because one of the bulbs might be?? a 250w bulb or is there some other problem that needs addressing?
Please help
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Please can someone tell me what type of Wrasse is this? (sorry about the picture quality taken by cellphone)
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 3:29pm CDT by danimal
Caught these on the weekend - thought the first one was an anthias of some sort, but not entirely sure. Can't find him in any of my books. In any case he is eating nicely and has settled in well.
The cleaner wrasse (??) im not sure if he is a true cleaner or a false cleaner. Please can someone confirm, thanks!
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Hi guys,
Do you stock Jager Eheim heaters?
If so, what is the price for a 300W?
Thanks
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 1:04pm CDT by gMAN
All other livestockCommon Name: Carpet Anemone
Scientific Name: -
Size 25-28cm
How long have you had it? +-4 Months
Shipping or Collection only: Willing to deliver in & around JHB
Your location. Jhb North
Price: Swop for BTA
Photo's: Hey guys, I currently have this Carpet nennie in my system, have no problems with it,eats regularly, sticky as hell, just think my setup may be a bit on the small side for it. I bought it for R550.00 but really would like to swop for a BTA, any sponsors out there willing to swop??
Notes: -
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Hi guys
Im reef crazy, i own a small but rather cool (so i like to think) 5ft marine tank.
Been keeping marines for about 5 years now and joined the forum with the hopes of expanding my knowledge from all the people on here. will post pics of my tank as soon as i figure out how.
Thanks guys
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Hi All,
Question:
I have a 4 Foot Tank with a Wooden Cabinet top and need to upgrade the lighting by adding a Metal Halide 150W Light.
What Kelvin Rating should i go for and where could I get the Globe and Fitting for a good price?
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 10:24am CDT by clown
Fish for saleCommon Name: Fiji Chromis (blue & Green Chromis)
Scientific Name: -
Size of fish 3.50 cm - 4.00 cm
How long have you had the fish? 1 year
Is the fish eating? eating like a pig
Shipping or Collection only: collection only
Your location. Cape Town
Price: R80 / swap
Photo's: Hi All,
I have this stunning fish a year a go when it was 1.50cm big and it did grow big.
It was staying on it's own after he chassed the others of his kind around.
He was happy by him self. He loves his flakes ,mix foods,veggies, what ever he gets he eats.
The reason I have to let my baby go is due to the Midas blenny in the tank that is bigger them him and now the Fiji chromis is hiding more then any thing ells due to him being alone. I want to make the fish happy.
I would like to swap the fish before I sell it. I would like to swap it for a bangai or any small reef safe fish.
If not then I will sell it as above price.
Help me make him happy.
pic below.
Notes: -
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 10:19am CDT by vatso
Hi there
I have had my powder brown for a month now.
when I got him I put him in the DT & he was eating but got white spot so I put him in my QT for 3 weeks was eating & happy. I put him back in the DT & he was chased by my sailfin & fox face they are all the same size & after 2 days stopped eating so I put him back in the QT tank but he is still not eating?
I have put in every type of frozen & dried food, Red & Green Norri with & with out Garlic but he is just not eating!
I have tried running the QT with lights off but still nothing.
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 9:34am CDT by brentv
Hi peeps,
I know about 10- 15 guys down onthe South Coast of KZN that are interested in attending a club. only hassle is the nearest one is in Durban, 130km away, and the meetings only start at 7. so no one this side can make them!:(
My question is how many of you guys out there live in this area (scottsburgh to port edward) that would like to start a marine aquarium based club???
I would have about 5-10 members that haven't joined MASA yet!:thumbup:
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Posted: May 25th, 2010, 9:15am CDT by Ridwaan
Hardware for saleThread title: Aquamedic Aquasunlight MH + T5 Pendant
Location: JHB
Shipping or Collection only: Shipping at buyers expense
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: I have an AquaMedic 2 X 250w and 4 X 54w T5 pendant for sale..
Its the Aquamedic AquaSunlight in excellent condition..Black in colour..
Will include 2 new Reeftek MH bulbs.The unit also has bulbs inside it.Bulbs are around 8 months old..T5s are new though...
Notes: -
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 12:04am CDT by Devank
Hi All, I bought a regal tang about 1 month ago and it had white spots. After 2 days the white spots were gone and the fish was eating well and there was nothing noticeably wrong. I did find it strange that it was sleeping on its side in between rocks but after visiting some pets stores and reading up I figured this was normal. A week ago the fish died and its the first loss I've had in 4 years. :(
Possible suspects are:
1. Anemone
2. black hermit crab
3. white spots
I want to buy another Regal tang. I went to a LPS and booked 1 regal tang, it had white spots but I've asked the owner to hold onto it till the spots clear. All water parameters were fine in my tnk.
How can I safely treat the white spots if I have invertebrates and live rock & should I get rid of the anemone as well? If the fish sleeps on its side wont the bristol worms or hermits attack it?
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I recently purchased some zoas but some of them seem to be turning inside out, like they have over-opened and they dont seem to close. Has anyone seen this before or know whats happening. Will post pics tomoro when lights are on
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I guess we all think, the way how Nemo escaped from the fishtank into the ocean is a mission impossible.
What happened today is even better and even more impossible.
As you can see below in the picture, there is no way to escape below the surface.
The only way to escape is through the safety overflow, a 40mm T-piece which is 38mm higher than the water surface.
Then the real challenge begins. Rollercoaster through the overflow pipe, a few bends and T-pieces. With hi-speed into the skimmer, down between the bubbles, passing the inlet from the 3000 litre powerhead, right down from the bottom into the 90 degree elbow and upwards to the most dangerous part of this escape.
The dangerous DIY milkfilter. Once in the milkfilter sock, the game is over, because the stupid breeder takes the sock out once a day and throws them away, without even checking what is inside the sock.
So perfect timing is the secret.
"I was watching this stupid breeder for quite some time now, every day and I have figured out, that I have to enter the first T-piece (which is above the water surface) by the time, when the stupid breeder is touching the milkfilter. The chance that the stupid breeder replaced the sock, before I could pass it, is roughly 60/40 for the stupid breeder."
Sounds really funny, just like the movie, but that is the only timeframe for a fish to pass the sock. Maybe 60 seconds to pass this:
"The only thing I really don´t know yet is, where do I end up? I can see until the pipe goes out of the milkfilter, but where is this pipe leading?"
Sorry little friend, the pipe ends up in two sumps. The first sump, I never opened up and the second sump, I check once per day, because the autotop is not working.
If you can make it until here, there is a 12.000 litre returnpump waiting for you.
Today I checked the water level in this particular sump. And that is what I see, when I open the lid.
You can see next to nothing, just where the water level is. Pitch black in there!
Now the few things I would like to understand:
1) What is the chance for a 2cm clownfish to make that jump?
He made it!
2) What is the chance for not getting sucked into a 3000 litre pump?
He made it again!
3) What is the chance, to pass the sock within the 60 seconds of replacement?
He made it again!
4) What is the chance, that the return pump still has a basket on the inlet and
not getting minced back where he came from?
He was just lucky!
5) What is the chance to see a 2cm clownfish swimming in a dark sump?
He was lucky again!
How many lifes does a clown fish have??????????????????
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72 gallon Bowfront
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 7:20pm CDT by flipwhip
Hey Guys
Need some help here, my 6-line has started to develop a strange
bump/ pimple on his head in between the middle of his eyes.
I noticed it on Saturday, a white spot started to appear then on Sunday
noticed the bump. Now the pics arent very clear, had to use the video
camera as you guys no this fish never stops swimming round, let alone
lets you take a picture of him.
Any advice or information would gladly be appreciated.
Cheers.
Wez
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hello to all
do you guy know were i can get a ro system in the south
for a good price i saw one for R1999 a stage 4 i think that is a bit much hey
any help plz
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 7:13pm CDT by Tobes
Hi guys - old and new :P
We as mods saw that during the last month or so new threads are being started in the FOR SALE forum without pictures. This is against the rules of the forum.
Most of the adverts did not have pics, and when someone asked for them the response is "I will post on the weekend", etc.
This is unacceptable and from now on all new threads in the FOR SALE forum without pictures WILL BE CLOSED OR EVEN DELETED!
Please guys, the rules are there for a reason and to make it fair for everyone. If you don't have pics yet then don't start the thread until you're ready please.
Here is the link to the rules, please read, especially no 3
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
Thanks guys :)
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hi please can someone id this fish
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Hi All,
I am somewhat confused by all the information out there on lighting, from 10K to Halides etc.. my question is, if you just wanted to grow your corals, not worried if your tank looks pee yellow or sc fi blue, what K-rating would be the best for your corals, i'm gonna take a guess that it would be closer to the pee yellow colour of 6000K? If so would, frag tanks could work quite well with CF (6400K) often for sale in hardware stores for less than R70?
Thanks,
N
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 1:01pm CDT by viper357
Hi all
Does anyone have a Hippocampus Camelopardalis (Giraffe seahorse) in their aquarium?
I have an enquiry from the BBC Natural History unit that are currently filming in Mozambique and they want to film one of these seahorses in close-up in an aquarium.
Please contact me urgently if you can assist.
viper357sa@gmail.com
Thanks.
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 12:09pm CDT by clown
I got below from JV.
He advise it is Ric but 459B said he is note sure if it is.
I Saw on live aqua something like below called emeral mush flower / emeral ric.
Advise please
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 11:00am CDT by Rax123
Hardware for saleThread title: 1.2m Juwel Vsion 260
Location: Durban
Shipping or Collection only: collection only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Juwel Vision 260 in black cabinet, plus a Prism Deluxe Protein Skimmer. check out the specs on following link: http://www.juwel-aquarium.de/en/visi...6550&cup=71800 . Tank and Skimmer are valued at +-R13 500. Tank comes std with T5 lights, internal filter, front glass bow front. All in exellent cond. R4800.
Notes: -
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Hi! I added a rock encrusted with brown star polyps three days ago to my 300L tank. The first day all the polyps were extended, but the next morning they retreated and was just wondering if I had done something wrong. I followed correct procedures as far as introducing it to my tank.
Thank You!!
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 9:48am CDT by ziyaadb
Hi All
Your thoughts on using White PVC piping as a Reflector in place of Foil?
Work?
Not work?
Wasting time?
OOOps saw this thread as well but input here would be appreciated.
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
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hey guys my search to refurbish my one vortech continues, im looking for a wetside magnet, anyone wil one laying spare please pm me..
im still looking for a power supplu aswell, i managed to get my hands on a driver...
please let me know
Les
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 9:21am CDT by ziyaadb
So with the tank sold most of my LR has been placed in a Big Bucket with 3 Seios. The seios give of major heat in such a small volume of water. As the water was warm to the touch not sure of the actual temp higher ten normal tank water. How hot can the water get before the beneficial bacteria perishes? After i felt the water i switched off 1 pump and that cooled it off a bit, should i leave it that way or will it be better hot? I dont care much for the pods as most died off in the move. The denitrifaction is my concern.
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Posted: May 24th, 2010, 8:33am CDT by Sentari
Hi All
So i decided to venture into the land of anemone's this weekend.
I bought myself an anemone from one of our sponsers. The anemone didnt like the trip home but has turned out to be a lovely anemone!!!
Its has a purple base with purple tentacles with green tips.
I was told it was a BTA but everything is pointing me to heteractis magnifica.
Sorry only the actinic lights were on this morning. I will try get a nice pic of it this afternoon. But i must say amazing! Its really huge so maybe when he's settled it might be a good idea to split him.
Anyways here's the pics.
Anemone with clows and 2 anemone crabs.
Top shot.
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Posted: May 23rd, 2010, 7:51am CDT by Nsteyn
Intresting or cruel?
Blue-colored fish representing Japan's national team and orange-colored ones representing the Netherlands' swim in a water tank resembling a soccer field, displayed at the Hakkeijima Sea Paradise aquarium-amusement park complex in Yokohama, Japan, Sunday, May 23, 2010. Japan will play against the Netherlands in the
2010 World Cup soccer match in South Africa.

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I recently here in gordons bay at bikini beach books purchased 'the nano reef handbook' by chris r brightwell for R20 - utterly serious, checking the LFS i found the same book R560!!!!! i couldnt believe it so i bout another marine book there for R40, LFS= R500. if u are interested in these books, just say and i will see what they have left. Cheers :peroni:
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I have a 1.2m tank but i onlt have one metal halide, i am looking for any light unit or even just reflectors as i have a load of ballasts but nothing to hook them up to :(
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Posted: May 23rd, 2010, 10:19pm CDT by Lorri
Well monster tank has finally been set up. Received a 2.4m tank about a month ago. Needed lots of TLC to get it looking good again but the hard work has been worth it. Tank is now set up in the dining room. It's like our house was built to fit this tank - it fits perfectly into the wall. We have built a cupboard to house it and it really looks neat and tidy inside the cupboard. Hubbby did a fantastic job on the cupboard and stand.
Tank holds 864litres and then sump holds 200 litres. The other two tanks look so small in comparison.
Got a reef octo xtreme running with a Seio M620Super flow - temporary flow in the tank while cycling. Return pump is 2800 litres per hour. - What suggestions for improvements - especially flow in the tank???
All that is needed now are the lights - still deciding whether to go DIY or to get units. DIY will be cheaper - but units always look better.
Now the long wait for the tank to cycle before we can put the fish in.
Cleaning tank when it arrived
Can't believe how big it is!!
Tank inside on the stand.
Busy building the cupboard
water changes and filling made easy
Skimmer finally running in the sump
Cupboard complete!
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Posted: May 23rd, 2010, 5:35pm CDT by B2048
Hi everyone
If you are starting off a marine tank and adding already cured live rock is it necessary to add it to slowly? or can you add all the cured live rock to the tank at once? Most of the articles I've read mostly speak about uncured live rock so I was just wondering.
thanks!
B.
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Posted: May 23rd, 2010, 1:56pm CDT by JAM
Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: Full System For Sale KZN
Location: Durban
Shipping or Collection only: Collection Only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Hi Guys
Complete marine for sale! Unfortunately do not have time to maintain anymore. System has been running for about 6 years:
Tank Size: 1.2 x 500 x 450
Wooden cabinet cover and lid
New Galvanized Stand
Pumps: 1 x SEIO M1 100
1 x Return Pump (3000LPH)
1 x Skimmer Pump (4000 L/Hour)
1 x Berlin Red Sea Skimmer
Lighting: 4 x T5s (2 Blue and 2 White Tubes)
Livestock as seen.
Want to sell complete system as is, not selling off any thing separately.<o
R 5500.00 or nearest reasonable offer
Thanks
Notes: -
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Posted: May 23rd, 2010, 12:45pm CDT by Dane
Hey guys,
Don't shoot me down on this one. But has anyone use aluminum foil as a reflector?
I am thinking of either painting the inside of my DIY light unit white, or gluing in tin foil. Cheap and easy. :-P
Thoughts?
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I am wondering if i install 3 skylights over my tank could it work for lighting for the DT , or should there still be globes fitted ?
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Hi all
i am from Munich in Germany and here my Coralls :slayer:
look on my Blog
[nanoriffcube.blogspot.com]
Jürgen
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Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 2:08am CDT by Dane
Hey guys,
Got a very nice letter in the post telling me that they're cutting the power the whole of monday.... :( just wanted to know how long i can run my system off a deep cycle camping type battery. I actually have 4 fishtanks in my room... :-P Needless to say marine gets preference...
I have 2x50w heaters, and 2x 150w. Then I have two tiny little mini internal powerhead filters, and two larger (not much) internal powerheads...
Should I just run all the powerheads? Do you think it'll last long with 4x powerheads and one heater? I know the heaters draw the most power... Will it be okay without heating for a day? Does anyone "insulate" their tanks during cuts? How?
I must also mention something embarassing.... I have been writing a 72hr exam this past week. So got absolutely no sleep two days in a row. The one morning before I went in i turned the powerhead off so I can look down into the tank to see where one of my mushrooms had walked off too, and somehow in my sleepiness forgot to turn it back on.... This is the only source of airation for the tank! I was gone THE WHOLE DAY! from 7am - 7pm. Came home in absolute shock and terror to find the filter off.... But ALL my livestock was fine!!! All corals fully open, fish weren't "panting" or anything... Was so unbeleivably happy and fortunate... Does this mean my tank has a low oxygen demand? Its not a very large volume of water... :-P
As always, thanks in advance for the advice,
D
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Hi everybody, you can please just call me John.I live in Stilbaai and have 3 running marine aquariums and just started a nother 180gal marine aquarium that is running for a week now. I've got 5 moorish idols, 3 doublesash butterflies, 1 coachman, 1 whitespotted butterfly,1 racoon butterfly, 2 boxies, 1 cowfish,1 rock beauty, 2 porcupinefishes, 3 honeycomb filefish and a couple of corals.
I am glad to be a member of MASA because there's a lot of questions and new things to learn every day.
Regards
John
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Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 7:37pm CDT by Stavros
Ok at first i had to begg.... my father for a reef tank. So eventually, he bought me a 15 gallon reef tank, and seeing how good it is looking right now ( Thanks to u guys!) he told me that if i keep this up we will invest in a 100-120 gallon TANK!!!:slayer::slayer::slayer:
for the living room!!! So now i have to study every site,book ect to realy make this dream go far. BUt i first have to prove to him that i can keep this 15g alive and then we will look to get it early next year!:thumbup:
So be prepared, for when i come barging in with a ***** load of questions!
I just want to know how much do u guys think it will cost? im thinking of a reef tank with corals ect
+ a generator for power cuts ( a small one to just power the heater and a power head)
Cheers!:yeahdude:
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Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 4:02pm CDT by greenie
Hi,
My tank (90 liter) is now 6 months old and currently have - 1 clownfish, 2 damsel, 1 firefish, 1 goby, 1 shrimp, 1 porcelain crab and 2 soft coral.
Today I have done a 40% water change. The Ph, Ammonia and Nitrite test OK but the Nitrate test at 40ppm.
Can someone please tell me how I can successfully lower the nirtate level? (I believe it is still to high?)
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Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 2:21pm CDT by Dikdaan
Hi all, its been 9 months since i started my first tank...That tank is going gr8 and everything is healthy and full of life!!!
But as this hobby has a bug that can bite you...It bit me and I'm setting up the second tank!!!Whoohoo!!! The marine bug has taken control...
The tank is 75% setup...Need the plumbing to be connected and to fill it up... This will all happen on Saturday. The tank is a bit bigger than my first setup and the sump is 1.5 times bigger...
Tank dimensions: (lwh) 1220 X 450 X 470 with a C2C overflow
Sump dimensions: (lwh) 1200 X 300 X 410 with inlet chamber,
dsb,
Lr
chamber and return chamber...
Stand is 1m high and is built out of 50X50 square tube...
Now the questions that I have is as follow:
Please bear in mind that I want to setup this tank for my clowns and maybe make it into a finding nemo theme...
Lighting requirements?
I was thinking 4 x T5's and when finances allow 1 X
250w MH...
Flow?
Ideas for scaping...?
Corals/nennies, tankmates etc?
The idea is to make it a finding nemo theme with scaping from the left to the middle of the tank and the idea is to have i looking like the big drop in the beginning of the movie where nemo is with his dad at their nennie...
Any and all comments and advice is welcome [IMG]http://***********************/forum/images/smilies/001_cool.gif[/IMG]
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Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 1:05pm CDT by gMAN
Hi guys n gals,
i'm thinking of adding SPS corals to my system, my current setup as follows:
Satandard 4FT DT
2 x 150W MH 20k
2 x 84W T5 14k both blue
2 x 39W T5 10k 1 White 1 Blue
2 x Seio 1000 prop Power Heads
I have a small sump consisting of 3 compartments: 1. TS1 Skimmer, 2. live rock + Chaeto, 3. Hailea HX6530 Return pump
Q: will my system accommodate SPS or not? If not, what can I do to improve it?
Feed back/advise appreciated:thumbup:
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Posted: May 22nd, 2010, 10:59am CDT by Mudshark
What's the general rule of thumb when selecting compatable wrasse? I've noticed that cleaner wrasse don't seem to tolerate each other in the same tank at all. I have 2 lunar wrasse (crescent tail wrasse) in my grow-out tank which seem to be getting along just fine. They're different in size and caught in different locations. Can I keep them together when I place them in their new home or will they end up fighting as they get older?
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Hi every one...
Can someone please assist...my yellow tang and regal has white and black spots..i bought them 2 weeks ago and they were ok antil yesterday what can i do? i started a garlic and vitemin c drop lastnight. they are in a reef tank with plenty rock to cutch them is a no-no..help please....guru where are thee?
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Posted: May 21st, 2010, 9:55pm CDT by Tiger
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Posted: May 21st, 2010, 6:21pm CDT by chikaboo
Hey all .... is there any reefers out there in the Randburg/Linksfield or Pretoria area near Lanzo that have a variety of frags and cheap cheap prices (like R50 under) or any hardware or even broken marine related stuff like old pumps and whatever you want to give away (cheato or calurpa is most welcome also)- I am attending an uncles 80th birthday party in Linksfield on the 5th of next month and staying at a cousins place in Randburg (Sundowner suberb) So on Sunday morning 6th I have to make my way to Lanzo to pick up some stuff from him and then would like be home before dark (oh almost forgot must get to Springs by Max as well) As I usually make the most of my trips to "big cities" would appreciate it if you have something and let me know (here or via pm) Thanks to all in advance
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Looking on expanding, if any one has a nano thats for sale and is cheap let me know.
Thanks
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Hardware for saleThread title: sump for sale
Location: cape town
Shipping or Collection only: collection only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: 1100*400*400 ...4 division...1st 240mm....2nd 100mm...3rd 200mm....4th 460mm....between 1st and 2nd glass can be remove if you need...R250
Notes: -
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Hi
I thought I would share this story with everyone, that is scared or uneducated on shipping coral and fish to other people in S.A...
Yesterday I had to ship three gorgonians and three other corals to Maj in Cape Town. Because of the gorgonians being quite large, I had to put them in huge bags, with plenty of water, upside down with polysterine the works... These few corals weighed in at 16kg!!!
SO, I went to the Post Office. They charged me R520 to ship to CT, and it would arrive their today only. Then after five minutes they phone me back, telling me I need to come take it back, as they are not allowed to transport any type of livestock. I tried to explaine to them what it was, and that is was not like a parot or dog, but they said that is the rules.
I got my money (which Maj had already paid inot my account by then) and went to Postnet. They told me I had to get a "bill of good health" report from a marine vet (wtf???) and get a special permit to transport it. How do you recon a JHB vet would examine a Menella Gorgonian? :lol:
So then I called Maj and told him I'm gonna fly it down. I drove to the airport, to SAA Cargo at around 16h00. They guy asked me what was inside, and I told him coral. He said "cool" and slapped a livestock sticker on the box (no other questions asked.) He said it would arrive at CT by 20h00 and weighed the EXACT same 16kg, yet the cost was only R176!!! That is a huge difference...
My advice to anyone, wanting to ship fish or coral (or your mother in law) go with SAA Cargo.
Why?
* Gets loaded onto next available flight, so it arrives anywhere in S.A within hours
* No hassle with permits and crap no-one has ever heard of...
* The cost is about 4 times cheaper
I will be much more comfortable to ship now that I know they are so cheap and good!!!
KUDO's to SAA Cargo!!! :thumbup::thumbup:
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Posted: May 21st, 2010, 10:33am CDT by JD167
It looks like my tank's Ca demands are getting more and more. The normal Kalk reactor/RO topup isn't keeping up.
Until I can get a Calcium reactor going, the idea I have is to use my SAGA PH/ORP controller to dose kalk based on PH levels. I would connect the power plug of the top-up unit to the PH controllers "control box". The controller is set to low, so when the PH drops to a certain level it would switch on the top-up unit, dosing kalk. This would be a two fold solution since it would keep my PH at a constant 8.3 and also dose kalk(or Ca more to the point). That would hopefully keep my Ca up to correct levels.
It being winter now, evaporation rate is much less so topping up with RO isn't needed as much. This means less Kalk.
Potential problems: I would have to monitor the salinity more closely. But with about 700L total water volume it would take some time to see a clear drop. I would also need to monitor the Ca levels so that it doesn't shoot through the roof. Again with 700L it would take time I think.
I'm using te slurry method at the moment to get the Ca up a notch, but I don't want to make this a manuel process.
Any comments to this idea? Good/bad? Any suggestions?
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Posted: May 21st, 2010, 9:50am CDT by chops
Hi i am looking for co2 bottels ang regulatr
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Posted: May 21st, 2010, 9:13am CDT by ziyaadb
After the conversation on the Reefocto thread i would like your opinions on when do you think you have reached the limit of your skimmer?
I will add my input once i have seen your ideas?
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Posted: May 21st, 2010, 8:54am CDT by ziyaadb
If so where can i get them cos i am going to be dosing with a Dosing unit and would love the space saving:
The ALK and CAL containers
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I found this little critter in a rockpool when I was collecting goggas, Please ID as all I can find is a pic no species description.
Thanx in Advance:thumbup:
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I have a Tropic Marin Ca test kit & somehow I must have lost or misplaced the instructions & can't find it anywhere & there are still quite a few more tests to go & don't want it to go to waste & to go buy another kit if I already have one. If anybody is using this test kit. I anyone is using this kit could you please pm me the directions? It would be greatly appreciated if someone sent me the instructions.:thumbup:
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hi masa members!
i recently purchased a tank 4 ft
got the water in started the cycle waited 4 weeks added fish
and and and
then 4 months later my house keeper knocked my tank and much to her surprise was swept off her feet not in a good way i tell you
i was furious still am really really p.ss.d you wont believe
this all happend 2 days ago
i am almost over it now... almost lol
well here goes i want to start a new tank thinking in the monster range 1000l plus
need some help on glass thicknes tank builder etc etc
was thinking as i am in construction and building houses and swimming pools that stand out of the ground that would be a good start
was thinking maybe 3 panel brick 1 viewing pane or 2 panel brick 2 viewing pane
depending on price of glass
or maybe just all glass
dont know yet need some help any guys out there willing to share some insight
yours truly
desertfox
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 7:08pm CDT by 459b
Single frag for saleCommon Name: Mushroom
Scientific Name: Discosoma spp.
Size of coral largest about 4cm across
How long have you had the coral? 4 months
Shipping or Collection only: Collection
Your location. Durbanville
Price: -
Photo's:
Notes: I have four of these up for grabs. They are a whitish/brown colour. All are mounted on coral chips but will attach to tile (or skull if you ask nicely).
Largest is 4cm across, smaller two are about half the size.
Will accept frags/cash/beer.
Collection only.
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hey guys
i have a question, recently i had gone through a rough patch with my sps and am now starting to get very good growth using the neozeo system.
what i have found is that the corals must have stopped growing for a while and obviously were stressed alot.
but heres the thing all the new growth is starting a single branch and all the other see to be just stayiing normal?
what can i do to help the coral grow better from all the shoots in stead of just 1?
sort of like they all doing well and polyp extention is ok but then the growth is exploding on only a single branch.
ive heard that a small fragging may help but too scared it will make things worse.
any ideas from the guru's?
thanks in advance
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Hi All,
Does anyone know where I could get hold of a Heteractis Crispa Anemone?
The Smaller the better. got 2 Sebae Clowns and would like to make their day!
Dont want to resort to a carpet anemone.
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 3:25pm CDT by neo
How do you do water changes?
I do it very manually and would like to know how you do water changes cause it's a lot of effort for me, mine goes like this:
- fill my saltwater drum with RO and salt, usually friday when i get home.
- drag the drum indoors cause it's to cold outside during the night.
- put the pump/heater into drum and switch on
- on sat afternoon/sunday morning i test SG and adjust if necessary.
THEN
- syphon my DT and vacuum substrate at same time into a bucket upto the level i've marked out.
- fill DT with new water by using a bucket filled from saltwater drum.
- rinse buckets/drum with RO afterwards, put everything away till next week.
you go.....
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 2:50pm CDT by Jinx
Hey guys,I just want to know if any of you guys used this product before...is it any good?
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 2:36pm CDT by Mudshark
What is the largest tank that I can build in 10mm glass. It would have 2 braces going over the top and rim bracing against the sides inside the bottom. Total height will be 600mm with the water level at 550mm. The width will be 800mm.
So ????mm(L) x 800mm(W) x 650mm(H)
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Was wandering why no LFSs sell small coral frags for the beginner?
It would be realy cool if you could buy several small frags and let your coral population in your tank grow the way it wants to rather than placing big corals in your tank that now have to adapt to the conditions.
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 2:34pm CDT by Mekaeel
Hi Guys!
Our next meeting will be held on Thursday the 27/05/2010 at the UKZN Dive Club, 19:00.
See you guys there ;)
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Various corals for saleCommon Names:Soft Corals For Sale
Scientific Names:-
Size of coralmedium - large
How long have you had the corals?-
Shipping or Collection only:Collection preferable...
Your location.Gauteng - East Rand (Brakpan)
Price:See individual Prices please
Photo's:Okey gents, I held back on these, as I first wanted to see what dad wanted...;)
These are now available:
1x Light Green Button Polyp (Palythoa) @ R150 (+/- 30-50polyps)
PLEASE NOTE IT IS NOT THIS EXACT VERSION, BUT JUST A LIGTER GREEN FULL BODY, I WILL POST ANOTHER PICTURE OF IT LATER...

1x Large colony (+/- 6-8) Hairy mushroom colony: @ R150
NOTE THIS WAS THE MOTHER COLONY, BUT THE ROCK CONSISTS OF MANY OF THESE BUDS

Zoanthid Colony with +/- 40 polyps @ R250
NOTE THIS IS THE MOTHER COLONY, THE ACTUAL FRAG IS ABOUT THE FRONT END OF THIS PHOTO, COLONY JUST SMALLER THAN A TENNISBALL...

1x Large Single Hairy Mushroom @ R100
2x Green Finger Leather Corals @ R100 each
NOTE AGAIN, THIS WAS THE MOTHER COLONY, ACTUAL CORAL HAS ABOUT 4 MAIN BRANCHES THAT DIVIDES INTO SMALLER ONES, ABOUT 6-8CM HIGH

1x Rock with Brown Button Musrhoom Colony on @ R150 (+/- 6-8 mushrooms) @R150

THANK YOU ONCE MORE!!!;););)
Notes:Viewing welcome, or if you want update photos, I can take some, but my camera is giving issues...
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Hello, I am presenting, are Andrea, I live in Sardinia
always fond of the sea in all its aspects, I deal with aquariums for over 10 years
When I run a Mediterranean and one tropical aquarium
at the time the Mediterranean is under construction
the tropical is dedicated to soft corals, LPS and tridacna, although at the moment there is some sps
the Aquarium is managed with Berlin method, and supplements, in accordance with the method balling
and now some photos:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Q3G4jMB7ps...i+barriera.JPG
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Q3G4jMB7ps...+tropicale.JPG
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Q3G4jMB7ps...scus+rosso.JPG
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Q3G4jMB7ps...+ocellaris.JPG
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Q3G4jMB7ps...ctis+verde.JPG
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 1:07pm CDT by dallasg
Ok as the title says, what ideas do you guys and gals have that you want to try but to scared to implement for lack of knowledge etc.
since i am pretty adventurous and pretty much done some wierd things things to my setups, i am keen to hear what others have and offer my knowledge where i can to assist
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 12:33pm CDT by jd
Hi Guys,
I am new to the forum but I need some advise.
I am busy building a steel stand for my custom 1300 x 600 x 600 tank. I am using 38mm square tubing (1.6mm wall thickness). What I would like to know, will this be sufficient to hold the tank?
Stand dimensions:
1300 x 600 x 950 (LxWxH)
I have attached a picture :)
Your advise will be appreciated!
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 10:31am CDT by candy

Hi guys, I finally plucked up the will / courage to post pics of our tank. We are beginners to this wonderful hobby. My father always had a sea tank when I was growing up but I never took too much notice of the logistics of the whole thing. Our tank has been running since January 2010 and so far so good.
Specs are as follows:
920 mm x 600mm x 560mm
Queen turbo skimmer
Mechanical filter
The above are all handed over by DAD! :thumbup: He also made the tank himself.
At the moment, we have two fluorescent lights which I know is not sufficient.
Life in the tank is as follows:
2 X Clowns shop bought
1 X Goldie shop bought
1 X Mandarin shop bought
2 X Sharp-nosed puffers locally caught
2 X Flag-tails locally caught
1 X (Name unknown caught at Sheffield beach, had a neon blue stripe on its back but lost its colour after a week. Now is a dark orange/brown colour)
2 X Boxing Shrimp (living together in harmony :thumbup: ) locally caught
A couple of dog fish locally caught
A couple of fairy shrimp locally caught
A couple of hermit crabs locally caught
1 X spider crab locally caught
7 or 8 anemone locally caught
The fish are thriving although the one puffer is a bit of a bully to the much smaller puffer and Im considering putting him back in the sea! :nono:The anemones are also doing well, they love their prawn feasts!
Ok, so this weekend, our project is to build a cabinet and lid for the tank and try and install more suitable lighting. (I would also like to change the background.) I dont really want to rush into corals etc. but I would like to branch that way eventually. After doing some reading, I see that fluorescent lights are fine if you want to have a fish only tank. I would like to have mainly fish but would like to try easy coral and more anemones.
We do not have much of a budget to go and buy all the expensive lighting that the fish shop sells but with some electrical knowledge and some sound advice, Im sure we could come up with a plan.
What do you guys think of having 1 UV light, 1 blue light and 2 fluorescent lights? Perhaps with a timer to try emulate day and night?
Your advice would be so appreciated!
Thanks guys :biggrin:
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 9:51am CDT by Mad_Max
Hi fellow Boyu owners,
We all know the skimmers for the TL450 and TL550 (WG308) are pretty useless, right! I recently bought Manic's TL550 and decided I need to do something about the skimmer before I set it up.
I have a TL450 running, and about a year ago upgraded the standard skimmer to the WG310. It seems to work better, but now I doubt it. The reason being is the WG310 chamber is shorter and has a smaller radius, thus less volume. So the contact time of the bubbles in the chamber will be less than the standard TL450 skimmer.
PLUS the standard TL450 has a impeller in the chamber to slow down the water/bubbles. The WG310 and WG308 has no obstruction to slow down the bubbles. It has a valve, but this only helps with fine tuning water level in the chamber.
I read up how to build a DIY skimmer and did the following. Unfortunately this will only help TL550 owners, as the height restriction of the TL450 is the problem.
The main aim is to give the bubbles more contact time with the water. There are 3 ways to obtain this:
1. Slow down the bubbles in the chamber,
2. Increase the length of the chamber,
3. Increase the diameter of the chamber
I opted for 1 and 2.
I used the standard pump and chamber from the TL450. It seems to produce better micro bubbles as it is a needle wheel impeller with a venturi air intake. It also is able to draw air in at a lower depth than the WG308/310 pump. The lattre is also a normal impeller, plus it can not draw in air past a certain depth.
I extended the chamber using a plastic glass tumbler and connecting it to the top chamber of the WG308 chamber (chamber height from 14cm to 34cm). I added a outlet to enable me to adjust the water level in the chamber. I will post some pics/video clip soon to be judged.
All I can say is this is more like it. It produces scum like never befor. I tested it in a bucket with tap water and scum starts overflowing withing 40 seconds.
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 9:36am CDT by HenkHugo
Hey guys,
Over the last 8 months i have been conducting a little experiment to measure the temperature of rock pools around the Western Cape. It seems to fluctuate between 18 and 27degrees. Based on this i decided to start a rock pool tank
I have an empty 1.6x60wx70h tank that has been begging to be converted. I contacted Frans at Dorry Pets CPT and he came over to do a consult on what exactly we want with the tank. We decided to build a new stand that will be 1m high to allow for better viewing. This will also give us sufficient space for a nice sized sump 1.5x50x50
Frans will deliver the new stand and sump tomorrow (21/05/2010). The drilling, building overflows, plumbing etc will be done on Monday.
I plan on building a dump surge device that will use +- 120L.
Lighting will be 8x 54watt T5s which can be upgraded in 15 minutes.
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Posted: May 20th, 2010, 9:12am CDT by Tremayn
Hey guys, im getting my uncle to build a tank for me but i just need some help with the design... I want a 4ft DT and 3ft sump.. I want a lil corner overflow but im not too sure about how the plumbing connects to the DT (i know peanuts about plumbing:whistling:)...
I want to add a fuge later on so I was thinking of like a splitter tap thing on the line to the sump... Also Im not sure how the water level in the sump is controlled? Adjust the return pump? Please help guys :) ... I want a TS2 skimmer, DSB and then the return chamber in the sump :thumbup:
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now its the summer coming, may be it ganna be abet hot but scuba diving at this time will be amazing, you can see many things at this time of the year like dolphin, manta rays, wheal shark, and all of this are available every where in the red sea, if you not diver you can join us for more information and we will do our best to answer your questions
red sea diving
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 11:17pm CDT by Evo R
Can anybody give me some ideas or advise on how to make a cheap frag tank.what do i need and do i have to go the normal route-skimmer,sump,dsb?
This will be a frag tank only.and this has to be separet from my current nano tank.
Any and all advise will be much apprechiated:thumbup:
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 11:13pm CDT by keyaam
So this discussion has been going on with another buddy for a while now and he is convinced that corraline is the sh!t. I actually dont think so. I need the masses on MASA to prove me right. As far as I can think there is only one benefit of corraline algae (looks pretty). For me its a nuisance. Here is why I hate it.
- Drains your cal,alk,mag
- Cannot be cleaned with a mag cleaner
- When cleaning viewing panels it sometimes scratches the glass
- Decreases live rock filtration capacity (debatable)
Feel free to add anything if i left it out. On alot of overseas forums you will see that corraline doesnt get a chance to grow. This allows for more calcium to be available for SPS growth. On my old tank I had an urchin to keep corraline algae down but he got bored and started munching on the corals.
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 10:25pm CDT by rudivh
Hi There
Please have a look at my tank and help me with what the correct measurements should be for that tank. Looks like my nitrate levels are to high and the Alcalanity is to low. I did put stuff in the water that i got to fix it(NitrateMinus - Tetra Aqua), and Tripple Buffer, but will a big water change also help?
And also how much tripple buffer should i use as i dont have the instructions. My Calcium level is also way to low at the moment.
Thank you
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I have this Kenya tree in my tank and it jusp mopes, I have moved it left and right and up and down and in flow and no flow and low flow...each new position I leave it for a few days and I just don't get any improvement, if I target feed with Zooplankton and Phyoplankton it tends to perk up again for a short while and then goes limp again.
It certainly isn't deat and there is nothing obstructing it, there is nothing to help me understan why it just sits all mopy the why is always is. I had it going strong and it was really happy until I put the torch coral in, it's tips extended just enough for them to barely touch but I saw that the tree was always closed on that side so I moved the tree. Since moving the tree, there is basically no where in the tank where I can get it "happy" again.
How do I get it to perk up?
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 5:09pm CDT by ZeroCool
Fish for saleCommon Name:Black saddle toby
Scientific Name:-
Size of fish3 to 5 cm
How long have you had the fish?6 Months
Is the fish eating?Yes, very healthy
Shipping or Collection only:Collection only
Your location.Edenvale
Price:To swap for anything (Softies would be nice)
Photo's:
Notes:- If you want to buy it, please pm me ! thanks
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 3:15pm CDT by Bruce001
Good afternoon
My name is Bruce and live in Durban North. I had a marine aquarium about 15 years ago, but gave it up when I moved abroad. I'm now back and wanting to start up again....but in no rush. I'm glad I found this site and have a lot of reading to do as I'm sure a lot has changed in the last 15 to 20 years. I'm sure I will have loads of questions and will ask for recommendations.
Cheers,
Bruce
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Hi All,
The tank is doing its thing looking good.
What I would really like is to get some small coral frags which can grow and fill the rock with time.
Does anyone know where I could buy some of these smaller frags?
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 2:42pm CDT by clown
I guys,
Im looking for nice green striped mushrooms please.
Im willing to pay or to swop.
Please PM or reply to me if you have any.
Thanx
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All other livestockCommon Name: Philipine Live Rock
Scientific Name: -
Size Various sizes, but a few large rocks
How long have you had it? 6mnths
Shipping or Collection only: Shipping at own expense
Your location. Brakpan - East Rand
Price: R140 per kilo
Photo's: Hi guys, I am also selling out my liverock. It is Phillipine Live rock, and maybe one or two lost pieces of Kenya LR.
All are very nice shapes, and have great life in and on them. A few very large pieces availalable at around 3-5kg each!!!
I have a total of about 15kg available I think.
Cant really post a pic of them individually, but here is a FTS so you can get an idea of the shapes and sizes:
Notes: Thank you...;)
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 2:20pm CDT by Dane
Hey all,
Bought a few little "scraps" the other weekend, mostly mushies. Had them in a dish with coral chips to attach naturally - worked a treat. So, took the one hairy mushroom out and placed it in a little nook in my rocks and now its moved right off the chipand seems to be attaching to the rock itself.
Just wanted to ask how motile these guys are? It seems to be moving almost like an anemone..?
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 1:00pm CDT by 459b
I need to somehow catch my pair of devils damsels out my tank. They are breeding and keep chasing my other fish and kicking sand onto my corals.
I have tried using a net but they dissappear into my rockwork.
The coke bottle trap also has not worked..all i end up with is a trap full of shrimp.
I came across this trap and would like to know if anyone has used it before.
http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects...m-tools/61.asp
Are there any tricks that you may have used to catch fish?
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Anyone know where I can get a float switch - just the switch - i want to use it with the current one just as a precuation - ie both switches have to go on before the pump activates
Thanks
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 12:39pm CDT by rudivh
Good day
I am having trouble getting hold of the guys at Dorrys pets. Did the numbers change or what?
Thank you
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 12:07pm CDT by ziyaadb
Hi
Can everyone please comment on their backup systems and well as any ideas that you may have in regards to backup systems in keeping your tanks alive in times of black outs?
I want to put 2 of my powerheads in the display(pointing upwards to agitate the surface) on a Inverter with a 102AH battery to keep things alive, would this suffice it should last a long time as the pumps pull max of 10W each?
This will be running of a relay so even in my absence will be able to function. Genny is out of the question.
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 10:51am CDT by viper357
Help, remember this thread? -
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
Well now the little one has gone and got herself pregnant, I think :p She has a rather extended oblong abdomen, which I am assuming is her eggs. The past week or two I have been watching them 'playing' which I now think may have been a mating ritual similar to the mandarins.
Does anybody know of any success stories in captive breeding of these? I'm tempted to give it a try, I have a small 2ft tank attached to my system that I could isolate them or her in.
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 10:47am CDT by Jacojs
Hey guys.
Need some help please. How do I attach a hose or pipe to this fitting?
I get that I first insert the seal on the left into the threaded part on the left and then screw it onto the pump.
My Question is where does the seal that I placed on the right go or is it just a spare(recieved 4 seals and 2 sets of connectors). Secondly, when the second threaded frikkin thing (cant think of a right name) is screwed on it is very loose, now I know it is not faulty I just dont get how it keeps the pipe or hose in place if it is so loose? I'm going to kick myself in the nuts when I get the answer probably.
Thanks.
Jaco.
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 10:09am CDT by Mrabkin
Help... I have some livestock arrive in my tank, but i didn't put it there!!!
I woke up this morning to find some strange little white Gogga cruising around my tank!!
He is way too small and way too fast to photograph, and equally not easy to see, so here goes the description to the best of my ability...
he is about 7mm long. Cylyndrical in shape.. 3-4mm in diameter. I can make out a dark eye, and flagella-like dorsal growths and WOW is he fast...
Must have been a egg in the sand i collected from the beach!!
Any ideas?!
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Posted: May 19th, 2010, 8:15am CDT by Rax123
getting my new tank delivered today(500L), need some advise for a suitable skimmer. Reef octopus OCTX-160 was recommended by LPS. any input will be appreciated.tank size 1.2 x 0.75 x0.6. with a 0.9 sump.
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 11:34pm CDT by SCOOBY

How is this for a Red Montipora Digitata?
:razz:
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 11:09pm CDT by badbiker
Hi
One month back I start cycling my 600l tank the problem is that ammonia is .50mg and nitrit is 0.0.mg.I'd like to know is it ok or some thing is wrong.
other info
50kg live rocks
18cm DSB
Bioballs
Skimmer
chiller
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 10:18pm CDT by Loki
Various frags for saleCommon Names: Pulsating Xenia - Red Mushrooms - Ricordia
Scientific Names: -
Size of frags 2 x Large Xenia colonies - 1 x small (5-6) polyp red mushrooms - 1 x medium Ricordia R5 coin size
How long have you had the frags? xenia and shrooms 2 years - rics about 6 months
Are the frags mounted? Yes
Shipping or Collection only: Collection only
Your location. JHB South Lenasia
Price: To swop for softies
Photo's: Sorry for pic quality and red fuzz algea
Large Xenia colony 1

Large Xenia Colony 2

Small Xenia

Red Shroom rock

Ricordia
Notes: Looking to swop for any zoos, shrooms, rics, WHY with good color
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 10:12pm CDT by Storm
Just saying hi, been away for a while but now im back :)
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 8:32pm CDT by neo
Hi,
I'm trimming my cheato this comming weekend, starting to get to big for my liking.
If you want some you are welcome, PM me for number.
Location Centurion.
Neil.
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 7:47pm CDT by japie
I am living is Stilbay and started with my marine tank 7years ago after i noticed a lot of tropical fish in the Goukou estuary. took photos and after making contak with Elain Heamstra fom Univercity Gramstown I found out that some of the fish are only found up to PE and some of them only up to Port Alfred.
I have a 1. 8mt tank that is doing very wel and I will like to submit some pecs, the system is only running on 2 E heim filters,2 pawer pacs and a small Tickel filter.
Even my fan corals are blooming.
I will upgrate the system in the next couple of days. bought a nice 1.8 from Rademagers a couple of days ago.
Speak to you guys again.
Japie
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Guys
Just been to pet stop and WOW - my first time there in a long time and I was really impressed! The have grow to truly one of the best shops in SA.
They have new(to me) LARGE tanks with awesome livestock - a great variety of healthy fish, inverts and coral.
I picked up a pair of cleaner shrimps and a baby jumping bean! (and almost one of the coolest coloured(awesome pink) montis I've ever seen.
Thanks Moolis and Shuan for a great shop here in our own Pretoria:peroni::peroni::peroni::peroni::peroni::p eroni:
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Well Guys tell us about......
1) The new range of test kits.
2) The skimmer cup cleaner.
3) The additions to the skimmer range.
4) Other secrets.
:):)
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Well it looks like the LED thing is history and the new thing is plasma lighting. Take a peek at what was released at interzoo 2010.
http://reefbuilders.com/2010/05/15/s...tiful-fixture/
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...?postid=519624
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 3:50pm CDT by gershwin
i had a 2m tank about a year back and after loosing thousands due to lack of knowlege and experience i through in the the towel, i have now scraped together the courage to start again.
im looking at getting a 1.2x500x500
please advise on:
lights
tank size
base rock
live rock
pumps
other hardware
CLS
ATS etc
bascily advise on anything you want to pls
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 2:39pm CDT by Nixxon
Hi All,
I just got this Coral a couple of days ago and nobody has a clue what it is... can anyone please help with the following:
- Feeding
- Lighting
- Water Flow
- Placement
Thanks Guys and Girls, Much appreciated!
Regards,
Nixxon
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 2:38pm CDT by SchyffS
Can you believe these guys :thumbup: they are discussing getting their phosphate levels up instead of down.....we can learn something about their tanks :whistling:
Just thought i would share the info
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/s...te+deprivation
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 2:28pm CDT by clown
Does any one have a pcs of pipe organ that i can buy or swop please.
Pm me if you can help
thank you all
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 1:57pm CDT by wringo
Hi
How i can feed my new stone fish?

Uploaded with
ImageShack.us
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 1:35pm CDT by FransSny
OK...the new 2, 6 mtr (thanks Rob :thumbup:) is here !!! TOTALLY misjudged the size of that thing !
Planning to use it as a "room devider (3 viewing panes) Still no Idea what I am going to do with it stock wise though
Here is my Q though.....I have 2 x 1,2 mtr sumps lying around , any ideas on how to "join" them
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well the time has come to finally order the glass for my new 5ft:jiggy:
after my sump cracked two weeks ago,i thaught..stuff this,i will never build anything less than 10mm ever again! so i spoke to my fiance,told her what i had planned,it took a while to get the go ahead but i got it;) this system is going to cost a arm and a leg..maybe both legs:lol: but like i explained to my fiance,i will be building something that i have always wanted,a system that will last me for a long long time (touch wood) we all know that things happen in this hobbie,but we must just be prepared for these things, so a lot of planning has been done and it sounds great!
i have always said that if i had to build another tank there would be a lot that i would change.i have learned a hell of a lot from my first (current) system.wich has all helped in the planning for the 5ft.
Leslie will be building the tank and sump:) Les has helped a lot with the planning and we have come up with some good ideas.
ok so this is whats going to be happening.
Tank - 1.5L X 700w x 600h.
front and two side payne's will be 12mm starfire:yeahdude:
the back and the base will be 10mm.braced all round top and bottom with centre brace over the top just to be safe. external back overflow.
we have not decided on the plumbing yet.either 50mm single outlet or two 32mm outlets.
all done in black silicone. 630Ltrs
Sump - 1.2L x 400w x 400h.
will be 10mm and in clear silicone.wont be as complicated as my previos sump.
three comp: 192Ltrs
1st - skimmer
2nd - DSB
3rd - return with a ATU comp.
les came up with a nice idea for a refuge.will show you guys when i start posting pics.
stand - 38mm x 38mm squire tubing with a 2mm wall thickness.
will have two centre braces running from top to bottom aswell just for extra support.and galvenised.
i will be using my trusty TS2 for the meantime.untill i can get some cash together for a new skimmer.
flow - Les managed to get me a squid (scwd - surging current water director) still looking for another one.will also have my two seio's m820's.
then its the big day.taking the old system down,removing everything.put the new system in place ect ect.its going to be a huge job! just hope my livestock will all be fine!
firstly i just wanto say a huge thankyou to Leslie for all the effort he has put into this build already,planning,qoute's ext ext.and for offering to build this tank for me.
i dont think i would want anyone else doing this build...les has some amazing skills when it comes to a lot of things but speacialy when it comes to marines and building tanks.shot buddy;)
then to Justin Mace for building my light unit.it should be done by the time the new tank is ready.its going to look great.
last but not least to all you guys here on MASA who have really made this a awesome site.i have learned a hell of a lot from MASA and still do every day.
i know you want pics,but i have absolutely nothing to take pics of yet so as we get the ball rolling there will be a shit load of pics! promise:)
:peroni::1:
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Hi,
I am looking to buy tetraselmis algae to use in an experiment. Do anybody know where I can find this :whistling:? I am situated in Cape Town...
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 10:41am CDT by clown
Hi guys :thumbup:,
I did go and adop new family members.
Here is a pic of my new family members and there names -
(2 pic below)
caluvaria
Purple-blue mush (More purple then in pic)
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Posted: May 18th, 2010, 10:33am CDT by vatso
Hi Peeps
I thought I would kick start this. Please give some input if you have.
Based on the above Table done by Randy Holmes-Farley of what the acceptable levels in our tanks should be.
Tank Size =
500lts for the below formulas
Alkalinity
Current Dkh 7
Increase Dkh 8
Bi-Carb = 3 tsp
pH affect = Somewhat lower
Note: Disolve 3 tsp of Bi-Carb with 1ltr RO water & Pour slowly in high flow area or sump wait 24 Hrs before testing again.
Calcium - to increase or maintain a 20 PPM per day use
Current = 380 PPM
Required = 400 PPM
Calcium Chloride = 7 tsp
pH affect = Minimal
Disolve 7 tsp of Calcium Chloride with 1ltr RO water & Pour slowly in high flow area or sump wait 24 Hrs before testing again.
Magnesium - to increase or maintain a 20 PPM per day use
Current = 1260 PPM
Required = 1280 PPM
Epson Salts = 20 tsp
pH affect = Minimal
Disolve 20 tsp of Epson Salts with 2ltr RO water & Pour slowly in high flow area or sump wait 24 Hrs before testing again.
Epson Salts should not be used alone as a Magnesium Buffer please see the following post.
[reefkeeping.com]
I hope this give one an idea of where one can start with dosing & what one could consider "Safe"
Happy Reefing
Calculations used from
Reef Chemistry Calculator ©
By: JDieck
-
Bumblebee Shrimp Feeding Video
I found tis interesting enjoy:

if video is not working check the link:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/media/vid...eBeeShrimp.cfm
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 11:19pm CDT by mookz
Hi Guys
I have no pods in my tank, I cured a puffer of ich a year ago with hyposalinty (I was ignorant and didn't know any better) and my tank has
finally fully recovered, the only thing that is missing is pods, they never came back, even after buying new live rock.
I live in Cape Town, CBD, could anyone please sort me out with some pods please.
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This looks like a great skimmer for the guys without sumps.
http://glassbox-design.com/2010/supe...-cone-skimmer/
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 10:09pm CDT by Dane
Hey guys,
Looking for an old 2ft lighting unit... Preferably one thats bunged up and maybe even not working. T8 or T5. Planning on modding....
Cheers,
Dane
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hey howzit everyone
I have a weired question. Can crabs shed their shell ?
One week ago i bought some LR and 2 crabs.
Yesterday i thought i saw that one of my crabs had died,
because i found a a shell of a crab i removed it out.
and today i found a crab a bit bigger than the one i thought
had died (i still got its legs). Do yous think that its possible what
i just said or do you think that crab is a hitch hiker but i never saw that
crab before. And it is the same kind of crab of the one i thought had died
what do yous think.:biggrin:
-
-
Posted: May 17th, 2010, 6:19pm CDT by Stavros
HI im new to these forums and im exited to get started!:yeahdude:
Ok i have a 15 gallon nano reef tank, i bought it 2 years ago and it was going well for about a year but i then had a very long power cut in the middle of winter and my tanks temp dropped. So i lost almost all my stock exept a clown fish:(. So i though to pack up the hobby. SO i just left my tank in the corner with nothing but a powerhead. 13 months later im BACK in the swing, and im ready to give it another bash!
~My tank was in a horrible state! so i boiled the sand and washed the rocks with a toothbrush, I redid the whole thing !
The next day i bought some Ro water and the LFS gave me something called Stability so i filled the tank, added all the rock ect and pored the stability into the tank
the next day i bought a new piece of rock to add to the tank. After that i left it to do its thing;) But know im noticing That a brown "Algae" is forming and there are these long (LONG) brown hairs that strech a good 15 cm. I noticed that my good m8 the clown fish turned pale and died. Is it Dinos? or Cyno?
My tank spects are as follows...
Nitrate =30 ppm
nitrite=0.1
Alkalinity= 1.1
ph= 8.6 (thats a shocker)
Ammonia= 0-0.25
my temp is good aswell as my salinity
My lighting is 220v/50Hz 36W LED with moonlights( its on for 8-9 hours a day)
Filtration= Biological filtration, live rock+live sand (i have about 14 pounds of rock)
= i do a 10-15% water change every week.
I dont think i need a skimmer as they are so expensive!! and = i only have a 15 gallon..
FLOW...
I have a "Main" Pump that blows out water through a fan type of thing. I also have a power head (Seio 320 Prop) which blows about 1200l a hour
But how must i place the umps in the tank - must they face each other in the tank? (from each side of the tank) or both from one side?
REcomendations!!!
What can i add to my tank to make it reach optimal "healthyness"
eg ADD kalkwasser! or get buffer ect
CUC!
when my tank is ok enough to house a few clean up crew. do u recommend??
3-4 dwarf hermit crabs
2 ceith snails
1 cleaner shrimp
( what would u recommend to add or get rid of)
FISh
1-2 puecula clown
1 reef safe wrass
1 goby + pistol shrimp ( i have already got a pistol shrimp form my live rock so he needs a friend!!!!!)
If only 1 clown what beautiful fish would u recommend?
Corals
mushrooms ect nothing fancy
IS this overstokking?
Summanry
Is the algea a threat in my tank? is it dinos. How can i get rid of it!!!
Are my tank specs ok what must it be?
My lighting and filtration??? + FLOW? (with flow where must i place the power heads)
Recomendations to improve my tanks well-being?
IS my CUC ok? must i add? if so what?
FISh- Is this ok - Am i overstoking? are they reef safe?
My tiger pistol shrimp is at the vert back of the tank! under some LR will my goby find him? or can i just get another pair of shrimp and goby?
Your awnsers are NEEDED PLEASE READ AWNSER THE SUMMERY and give ur ideas:slayer:
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 5:46pm CDT by Lizid
Hi there guys I am new here I have a keen interest in Animals mainly Fish and reptiles, I dont have a marine tank yet but I will do one as soon as I have the space...
So this is the Hi from the Lizid...
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 5:22pm CDT by Stavros
HI im new to these forums and im exited to get started!:yeahdude:
Ok i have a 15 gallon nano reef tank, i bought it 2 years ago and it was going well for about a year but i then had a very long power cut in the middle of winter and my tanks temp dropped. So i lost almost all my stock exept a clown fish:(. So i though to pack up the hobby. SO i just left my tank in the corner with nothing but a powerhead. 13 months later im BACK in the swing, and im ready to give it another bash!
~My tank was in a horrible state! so i boiled the sand and washed the rocks with a toothbrush, I redid the whole thing !
The next day i bought some Ro water and the LFS gave me something called Stability so i filled the tank, added all the rock ect and pored the stability into the tank
the next day i bought a new piece of rock to add to the tank. After that i left it to do its thing;) But know im noticing That a brown "Algae" is forming and there are these long (LONG) brown hairs that strech a good 15 cm. I noticed that my good m8 the clown fish turned pale and died. Is it Dinos? or Cyno?
My tank spects are as follows...
Nitrate =30 ppm
nitrite=0.1
Alkalinity= 1.1
ph= 8.6 (thats a shocker)
Ammonia= 0-0.25
my temp is good aswell as my salinity
My lighting is 220v/50Hz 36W LED with moonlights( its on for 8-9 hours a day)
Filtration= Biological filtration, live rock+live sand (i have about 14 pounds of rock)
= i do a 10-15% water change every week.
I dont think i need a skimmer as they are so expensive!! and = i only have a 15 gallon..
FLOW...
I have a "Main" Pump that blows out water through a fan type of thing. I also have a power head (Seio 320 Prop) which blows about 1200l a hour
But how must i place the umps in the tank - must they face each other in the tank? (from each side of the tank) or both from one side?
REcomendations!!!
What can i add to my tank to make it reach optimal "healthyness"
eg ADD kalkwasser! or get buffer ect
CUC!
when my tank is ok enough to house a few clean up crew. do u recommend??
3-4 dwarf hermit crabs
2 ceith snails
1 cleaner shrimp
( what would u recommend to add or get rid of)
FISh
1-2 puecula clown
1 reef safe wrass
1 goby + pistol shrimp ( i have already got a pistol shrimp form my live rock so he needs a friend!!!!!)
If only 1 clown what beautiful fish would u recommend?
Corals
mushrooms ect nothing fancy
IS this overstokking?
Summanry
Is the algea a threat in my tank? is it dinos. How can i get rid of it!!!
Are my tank specs ok what must it be?
My lighting and filtration??? + FLOW? (with flow where must i place the power heads)
Recomendations to improve my tanks well-being?
IS my CUC ok? must i add? if so what?
FISh- Is this ok - Am i overstoking? are they reef safe?
My tiger pistol shrimp is at the vert back of the tank! under some LR will my goby find him? or can i just get another pair of shrimp and goby?
Your awnsers are NEEDED PLEASE READ AWNSER THE SUMMERY and give ur ideas:slayer:
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 5:01pm CDT by Manic
Hey everyone,
Just thought I would try out me new vortech on an empty 3ft tank before I put it in my main tank. Kind of wanted to confirm all the youtube videos I see. I filled the tank half way and set it on full power in short pulse mode. If I had more patience I'm sure I could get a bigger wave by fine tunning the frequency. Here's my video, hope it works:
YouTube- Vortech MP40W Wave in 3ft
I cut the video short as the wave was getting really big and was scared of it overflowing onto the dry side of the pump. The wave measured 120mm when I turned it off.
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 4:45pm CDT by ZeroCool
Hi there, i have a nice large rock with zoas' on it. My polyp 's is taking over the tank almost, and is growing like FAST. i see here and there polyp's popping up between the zoa's. Is there any way to stop it ? :(
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 4:41pm CDT by ZeroCool
Good day, over the weekend i saw my cleaning shrimp limping, lol !
Well, later i caught my dancing shrimp on the limping one, and 24 hours later, mr limping was gone.
My question, does dancing shrimp eat other shrimps ? :(
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 3:47pm CDT by RiaanP
Any comments, suggestions, possible problems?
Standard 60L
Ts1 skimmer in tank.
200 W heater
1800L/h pewerhead
2 CFL lights, out of shot.
Some LR, to give fish that home feeling.
This is all temporary, and will be removed when not in use.
-
Hardware for saleThread title: Reef Octo TS1 Skimmer for Sale
Location: East Rand - JHB
Shipping or Collection only: Shipping at own cost
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Decided to sell my TS1 Skimmer, as it will be doing more harm than good in the new system...
This skimmer is 3months old - Purchase date can be confirmed with Lanzo from Dorry Pets...;)
Price - R1000 not negotiable.
Notes: As new...:)
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 3:32pm CDT by JD167
Over the last couple of weeks I found my RO unit taking longer and longer to fill my 25L drums. It got to a point where it would take all day just to fill half a 25L drum with RO.
I have one of these Aqua Medic 3 stage units.
With TDS readings sitting at 30(not good) I decided to try and clean out the membrane. Still no improvement. I then took the first stage off and flushed some water through, clean as a whistle. I then removed the second stage(Carbon). I blew from the one end... blocked. Flushed some water in the direction of the flow and not joy. Flushed in the opposite direction and I was amazed by the amount of crap that came out!! I couldn't believe it! And to think we drink this water!
Anyway, put it all back together and it's working like a brand new unit! Now my TDS is on 8! :thumbup: Moral of the story, check your RO units regularly. And don't drink water, drink :peroni:. :whistling:
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Hi Guys
I have a small tank with a few fish and LR. Still new to marine although i have it for more then a year. Guess you can never know it all ;).
Will try and post a few pics.
-
If you have a small regal that you are selling please let me know.
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 1:49pm CDT by gershwin
this might be a stupid question but can one make live rock out of normal rocks collected from the beach (ones put in a tropical tank) and how
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 1:00pm CDT by vatso
Hi all
Can we try an idea of a safe dosing table to assist people who are new to the hobby & that are not great with maths & formulas.
Here is an idea example
KH - Bi Carb - Max 1 tea spoon per 500lt water every 2 days "Must be tested"
Kalk - Max 1 tea spoon per 500lt water in 1 lt RO water per day "Dripped at Night - 1 drip per second"
Above is an example not to be used!!!!!!
What do you think can this be done - simple "Safe" dosing table
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 12:31pm CDT by ziyaadb
Hardware for saleThread title: Bubble Blaster 5000 with BRAND NEW pump
Location: JHB
Shipping or Collection only: Shipping on buyers account.
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: After all the research i have done i have decided that this skimmer will be too big for my system. Its submariners skimmer with a BRAND NEW pump.
This thing is a skimmer of note and will be an awesome purchase please ensure that your tank is at least 600L minimum excluding sump.
some pics:



R4800.00
new retail is R7000.00
Notes: -
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 12:28pm CDT by JD167
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 12:20pm CDT by Dikdaan
Hardware for saleThread title: Waterboy RO Unit for sale
Location: Pretoria
Shipping or Collection only: Shipping and collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Hi all, I have an 2 stage water boy RO unit for sale...Its about 7months old and has extra filters etc that will go with it. I am looking to sell it at R1200 or the closest offer...
Thanks
Danie
Notes: -
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 12:12pm CDT by Dikdaan
Hi all, I have an 2 stage water boy RO unit for sale...Its about 7months old and has extra filters etc that will go with it. I am looking to sell it at R1200 or the closest offer...
Thanks
Danie
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 11:33am CDT by Adee
I need some ideas...Ok, excluding the use of reverse lighting on a refuige.
What other ways can one employ to stop nightly PH drops?
My new build will use a lot of natural sun....I don't want the added expense to power lights to light up a fuige at night.
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 10:47am CDT by Furbz
Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: another full system for sale (selling separate)
Location: PTA
Shipping or Collection only: collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: hi guys.
i am helping a friend of the wife out in selling his tank as he is moving down to capetown shortly.
here is a list of what is available,
i will come back to this list with prices later this week once i have discussed with him what he wants for each individual item. i will also post pictures of the tank.
these should be up by Thursday.
the tank itself is stunning. very tempted to keep it for myself! but the wife got out her stick and bashed me over the head even before i had uttered the words!!
here we go.
livestock(all eating pellets)
1x small/medium clown trigger fish
1x medium yellow tang
1x medium (adult looking) regal tang
1x small/medium marine beta
those i would say are the prize items
after that,
2x large percula/ocelaris clowns (will confirm on thurday)
2x lyretail anthias (1x male 1x female)
40-50kg of liverock (guessing amount, might be more)
hardware
tank, stand sump (all as a unit) 4f by 800 high by i guess 400 maybe 450? beautifully done. and a stunning tank
TS1 skimmer
4x 39W T5 pendant (goes really well with the tank)
heater
thats it really.
if you really want an item then make an offer, otherwise i will get the prices up by the thursday.
shap!
Notes: -
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 10:35am CDT by Mo_G
Anyone interested in a Hanna phosphate photometer HI 93713 for R1500, paid R2500?
[www.hannainst.com]
I have the unit for 6 months and have done about 25 tests, the unit is still new and has its original box.
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Hardware for saleThread title: Seio Prop 1500
Location: Kempton Park (JHB)
Shipping or Collection only: Prefer collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: SEIO Prop 1500 with magnet holder rated at 5800l/h

R500
its 3 months old.
selling it cause its to much flow from one pump in my 200l tank.
Notes: -
-
would this work for a Cryptic Zone aka Benthnic Zone , i know the water flow must be super slow , and im not sure what must go inside the cryptic zone !
so if i can get some info on this it will be appreciated
Thanks
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 9:38am CDT by kiki
Hi
Iam new to the marine tank world. Just got my tank a week ago, :thumbup: cant wait to start getting fish.
Lots to learn. :whistling:
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Posted: May 17th, 2010, 8:06am CDT by FransSny
Any CT guys have bio balls lying around ?
-
Tools Introduction:
TS Video Converter can convert TS to AVI format, convert TS to MPEG, convert TS to MPG, WMV, FLV, SWF, MOV and all the popular video and audio formats.
Input File Format Supported:
Video: MPG, MPEG, MPEG 2, VOB, DAT, MP4, M4V, TS, RM, RMVB, WMV, ASF, MKV, AVI, 3GP, 3G2, FLV, SWF, MPV, MOD, TOD, QT, MOV, DV, DIF, MJPG, MJPEG
Audio: MP3, MP2, AAC, AC3, WAV, WMA, M4A, RM, RAM, OGG, AU, AIF, AIFF, APE, FLAC, NUT
HD Video: HD TS, HD MTS, HD M2TS, HD MPG, HD MPEG, HD MP4, HD WMV, QuickTime HD MOV, HD H.264, HD RM
Output File Format Supported:
Video: MPEG-4, H.264/MPEG-4 AVC, MOV, M4V, AVI, DivX, XviD, ASF, WMV, MPEG-1, MPEG-2, 3GP, 3GPP, MKV, FLV, SWF, VOB, DV, Super VCD(NTSC, PAL, SECAM), VCD(NTSC, PAL, SECAM) , DVD(NTSC, PAL, SECAM)
Audio: AAC, AC3, AIFF, AMR, AU, FLAC, MP3, M4V, MP2, OGG, WAV, WMA
HD Video: HD H.264, HD AVI, HD MPG, HD TS, HD WMV, HD MPEG 4, HD MOV, HD ASF
Image: JPEG, GIF, BMP
Quick Guide:
Step 1: Download TS Video Converter
Download the TS Video Converter, then install and run this program.
Step 2: Load the video files you want to convert
Click the "Add File" button to browse your computer hard disc and add the video files you want to convert to the program.
Step 3: Output Settings
After you added Video files, you can select an output format for each video file and specify a directory on your computer to save the output files.
The default setting works well. Of course, if you don't want to use the default video and audio encoding settings, just click the "Settings" button to customize these settings.
Step 4: Start the conversion
Click the Convert button to start conversion and then you can just go out for a walk or take a nap, and the conversion may have been finished when you come back: )
Tips: Edit your video
1. Adjust Effect
Click "Effect" button to open the edit window to adjust the video effects.
Brightness: Drag the Brightness adjustment bar to set the brightness of the video.
Contrast: Drag the Contrast adjustment bar to set the contrast of the video.
Saturation: Drag the Saturation adjustment bar to set the saturation of the video.
Volume: Drag the Volume adjustment bar to adjust the volume of the audio.
2. Trim video clips
Click "Trim" button to open the edit window to trim any video clips.
3. Crop video play ragion
Click "Crop" button to open the edit window to customize the video play region.
Done.
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Posted: May 16th, 2010, 12:27am CDT by schaun
Came across this on youtube.
And results these guys get with there systems are amazing.
Does anyone know anything about this method ?
- How it works ?
- Would you recommend it ?
Just thought i would start a thread on it as i would like to learn more on the subject.
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i was looking for a way to keep mild,no blind spot circulation for training mandarins to take frozen food and frans mentioned kreisel(jellyfish tank) as being option so i built an in tank version after studying the ones at the research centre. i built it out of perspex with a deep neck to prevent jumping out, i will place a rain bar unit through the side just above overflow holes to give counterclockwise circulation and replace water exiting through overflow slits and flood prevention holes, (i may replace slits with filter sponge should the need arise.the tank holding the kreisels i make will be full of chaeto , live rock and is attached to ts3 skimmer and dsb.
here are pics of the kreisel pre pump and rain bar unit
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Posted: May 16th, 2010, 3:21pm CDT by greenie
Hallo,
I am now 6 months into this and wonder if there is somebody who can tell me whether rain water is safe to be used as an alternative to RO water?
-
Can some local please advise me on where I can buy playsand in PE, or can I use the washed up sea sand from Sardinia Bay? Its for my DSB.
-
Hi all
Have this to Id please, can anyone tell me what this is? I found it in my sump.
thanks
-
My leather has some kind of infection :dft004:, white blobs are appearing on random spots and wherever they appear, the polyps round them are dying and when i remove the blobs, its clear that the coral has been eaten away. ive dipped it twice but it keeps comming back, will post pics tomorrow, does anyone have any ideas of what it could be?:banghead:
-
hi everybody
i have a question it may dump one
what kind of corals that does not need special requirement of light ?????
if so will you please inform me
thanks in advance
Amin
-
hi, my name is mike im new to the forum,
ive just bought a 180litre marine tank from a friend. the tanks been running for almost 4 years so everyhing is fully matured and running.
the tank stock includes:
2x clown fish with host anemone
1x triggerfish
1x mandarinfish
1x gold headed sleeper gobie
2x fire shrimp 1x see-through one
1x blue dartel
15x hermit crabs
live rock (+- 12kg)
tank does still look very empty tho.
filtration: overflow, sump with protein skimmer and media
lighting: Shim Mao lighting system
and wave maker.
thoughts and advice appreciated
thanks..mike
-
Posted: May 15th, 2010, 12:05pm CDT by Naiema
Please call us to find out about our "Winter Week-end Specials" . Shrimps, Butterflies, Clowns& Chromis at great prices. Powderblues,Clams,Tangs in stock. Please note that Sams Aquarium will be closed tomorrow(Sunday 16 May). : 0217122534/0826368990
-
I was wondering if theres anywhere i can place an add for the sale of my tank. All inclusive, fish and "all" , 4 foot protein skimmer sump and even the ro unit R 7500:yeahdude:
-
Posted: May 15th, 2010, 10:11am CDT by Pete
Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:2 X TL550 tanks for sale
Location:Centurion
Shipping or Collection only:Collection only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale:Hi All
I Have two Boyu TL550 nanos for sale asking price R2000 each.
Both are complete with stands, pumps, uv, skimmer, heater, substrate and water if you want that too. The live rock in the tanks will not be for sale.
1st TL550 has got a DB board with dip switches for all equipment and a electronic timer for lights

and a pic of the DB
The Second TL550 has had a light upgrade and now has 3 x 24watt PSL globes built in the canopy. This tank also has three african clown in that will go with the tank

The tanks are for collection only will not be-able to ship
Notes:-
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 7:39pm CDT by charlv
Hi all reefers it's been awhile since i posted because of ADSL problems, but that's not my only problem my water has been cloudy for some time now(2 weeks) used clarity(Seachem) done 30% water change scraped scrupper both screens and still no joy can anybody help please! :P
-
Hi Guys
I got a small regal tank from a lfs 3 days ago - he's seems very healthy - feeding swimming freely, lively, no stressful behaviour etc - I have a 1 meter 300 litre system and a couple other fish( marron clown, sixline, bluecheek goby and a fire goby. System is stable and water params all normal. The regal has ick all of a sudden - there was a spot or 2 on him when I got him that I didnt notice in the store and now it's spread. I have no hospital tank and hav'nt had sick fish for a long time so I'm a "little out of practice" - Question is this - do I turn my tank upside down to catch him and stress him out and set up a makeshift hospital or so I leave him and make sure water params are great and sore of hope for the best???
-
Hi Folks,
Got my first marine tank 3 months ago. I've been running a Red Sea Max 250, which has been great fun :), definitlety a lot to learn, but quite rewarding when things go well.:peroni:
Looking forward to exchanging ideas & tips on this forum.
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 2:46pm CDT by teez
Hardware for saleThread title: WANTED : MH 250W 10K or 20K
Location: Gauteng
Shipping or Collection only: collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: hi there,
any have 2 X 250w globes and 150w 10k or 20k globes that they would like to part with. let me know the price and when i can fetch them.
thanks :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Notes: -
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 2:25pm CDT by gershwin
Hardware for saleThread title: tank for sale
Location: Cape Town
Shipping or Collection only: collection only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: tank size 1300x900x660, including sump 1200x450x465. conopy has 4x t5 blue and white bulbs in it ( on a digital timer) and 2x extractor fans. R4000
Notes: -
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 2:17pm CDT by Moolis
We have a special on these corals:yeahdude: this week only. Starting Friday 14/05/2010
These are the brains on special for this week.
NR - 1

NR 2
NR3
NR4
NR 5
NR 6
NR 7
NR 8
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 2:11pm CDT by Mad_Max
Hi,
I just bought Manic's tank in the For Sale Forum called: Bargain Sale!!! TL-550 for sale: JHB.
So now the problem. I have a TL 450 running for +- 3 years already and want to transfer all to the new tank. How do I do this to minimize a new cycle in the new tank?
My idea is:
1. Setup new tank.
2. Add 20l new SW. Run pumps + skimmer from old tank.
3. Transfer some live rock and 20l from old tank. Run for a few hours
4. Transfer rest from old tank and run for a day.
5. Fill up with new SW.
Am I over complicating things here?
Or should I take is slow?
1. Setup new tanks fresh with new SW and live rock. Add 10l water plus cup of sand from old tank and let it cycle as normal.
2. After +-4 weeks (parameters pending) transfer rest from old tank.
Current stock in old tank is:
8kg live rock
Pulsing Xena
Zoas/Buttons
Kenya tree
Small frag of Monti
Shrooms
Harry mushroom
2 Ricordia
1 BTA and a baby clone BTA (Had them for 2 years already)
1 Clarki
1 Bi-color blenny
1 hiding mantis
I am mostly worried for my BTA's as they require mature tanks.
All help will be appreciated!
-
Posted: May 14th, 2010, 1:23pm CDT by dallasg
Hi All, can i have a voted for when we should have the next get together and some suggestions for talks, topics etc
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 1:22pm CDT by Moolis
Hi reefers & Pet Stop customers
As I should have expected and you all (Pet Stop customers;)) knew long time ago!!! We ended up with insufficient space in our normal sales aquariums for coral frags.
We needed to upgrade a fish system to a coral holding fasility. So we upgraded the filters and lighting on this system to accommodate 150+ frags
But that was e few weeks ago and before I got the chance to do this post, this was the result

Now
A tank with LOTS of frags:P
NOW WE HAVE -------
a soft coral aquarium with 200 + corals in it and a capacity for more
AND
A hard coral (mainly LPS) system that house 150+ corals and a capacity for even more
AND
A SPS system that easily house 60+ specimens.
PLUS
This frag tank.
With this capacity for 800 + corals we are able to always have 450+ corals in stock:yeahdude::slayer:
All this in place and I already see a need for more space developing.:whistling: But how to do it? I Got no idée but pressure have a way to open my eyes to new opportunities and ways.
Moolis
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 1:21pm CDT by dallasg
Good day to you the new member!
Here at MASA we have a vast amount of information stored on our forums, we know you have tons of questions and dying to ask them all, but try searching through the forums and looking for the common questions and answers they have all be answered before, if you cant find what you looking for, post here and we can post links to the threads.
This is to stop the informative threads going off topic and bring old arguments back etc... Mods if this is cool, can u make this sticky
even i once was a beginner, and some still think i am :)
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 12:04pm CDT by neil.h
Anyone know of any tank builders on the West Rand/Weltevreden Park area?
Bloody bulkhead broke off internally in my corner overflow and will need to be stripped and redone. Also want to get my stand extended upwards by 20cm, having 10cms to work inside my sump is getting rediculous.
Anyone?
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Hey guys
I am looking to purchase a small copperband. Please let me know if you have one.
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 10:39am CDT by mahan
Hardware for saleThread title: AQUA MEDIC PH CONTROLLER
Location: DURBAN
Shipping or Collection only: COLLECTION
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: HI GUYS I HAVE AN AQUA MEDIC CONTROLLER PROBE AND REGULATOR FOR SALE R1400 AM IN DURBAN BUT CAN ARRANGE SHIPPING
Notes: -
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hey all, we have 250 kg of genuine FIJI ROCK ARRIVING NEXT WEEK :thumbup:
100KG IS A PRE-PAID ORDER AND ABOUT 150 KG IS AVAILABLE.
a few boxes of coral are alo on the way.
EXPECTED TO SELL AT ABOUT R 140 PER KG.....this may change so dont quote us!!!:razz:
for those of you who recall the awesome shipment brought in by by a friend of mine a few years back......its from the same supplier.........naturally some going into my new tank too....;)
anyone interested, please pm us your contact details and we will call when order arrives.....
permit of authenticity of origin is available for the rock too. :yeahdude:
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Posted: May 14th, 2010, 10:09am CDT by danimal
Hey guys
Ive got two adult coral bandeds together with my cleaner in my 1m tank, who generally play nice together. However I've also got a baby coral banded that someone gave me, being really small he has stayed far away from the adults and they've given him no hassles. now he's starting to get quite big (sheesh they grow fast!) and id like to avert a problem before one arises. do you think they will fight?
cheers
dan
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hi all
i am new to the masa website. i am keen to get started on a new tank and have heard that there is loads of info available from members on this site.
being cost effective is a concern and i have heard that AQUA H2O in JHB is selling there stock at half price to the public.
does anyone know whether this is true?
lastly, where is the best place to purchase livestock?
regards
entourage
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 12:35am CDT by Manic
Hardware for saleThread title: Bargain Sale!!! TL-550
Location: JHB
Shipping or Collection only: Collection Only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Hey Everyone,
So this tank has been sitting empty for a while and finally decided to sell.
First of the tank is a Boyu TL-550 (128L) with the stand. Included in the deal is the following:
Tank: Boyu TL-550 with Stand
3 X 24W PC Tubes (Standard it comes with 2) Lighting upgrade with actinic globe (All globes replaced 2 weeks before shutting tank down)
1 X SEIO 530 Prop Pump
2 X SEIO 320 Prop Pump
Upgraded 1200 Lph return pump
New jager heater (The one the tank comes with is useless)
Cooling Fans integrated into tank hood with transformer (These fans keep the water temp down even on the hottest summer days)
Full DB board on back of tank, this includes;
2 X Electronic timers that control the lights so that the actinic lights come on an hour before the main light and stay on an hour after the lights go off (This can obviously be changed via the timers) The fans are also connected to the timers.
8 X Switches to turn on and off all the pumps and heaters etc.
The DB board only has one plug inlet so the whole tank runs of a single plug, which means no messy wires.
Also included is some corals, these included 2 leather corals, pulsing xenia and a red mushroom rock, 1 blue zebra hermit, I might add a bit more in if people don't decide to negotiate the price or it sells quickly.
Here are some pics of the system while it was running:


Price: R2700 Neg.
Will post some more pics now:
Notes: -
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 11:59pm CDT by burt
im looking for a 54 wat t5 unit that can hold 4 tubes, to swop for a eheim canister filter
pm me
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 8:34pm CDT by ziyaadb
Anyone have any ideas if we will be getting any form of N & P pellets in SA, there seems to be loads of different types on the market but i have not heard of anyone in SA bringing them in?
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Hi everyone
Need some advice on MH lighting.
I have had my MH's running on my new tank now for 5 months however the 14000K BLV bulbs I am using are still a little too yellow for my liking.
I noticed that many TOTM or TOTY have an awesome blue hue to them in photos and i prefer this to the current yellowness I am experiencing with my BLV's. I have T5's running as well at the moment and almost all are blue however they don't really add enough blue to the visuals.
What would the effect on my corals be if I used an even higher Kalvin bulb like a 20'000K BLV 250W metal halide bulb instead? I have mostly LPS and softies as well a 2 bubble tip anemones and a few SPS. Anyone used these bulbs before?
The metal halide bulbs just seem to be a lot less blue than the t5's with the same kalvin rating.
At present I run 2 x 250W BLV 14000K Metal Halides and 8 x 54watt T5's on my 2m tank.
The tank is listed as Fischer's Peninsula under Supersized Tanks.
thanks...
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just a quick question,i recently started adding iodine 2 my tank. I suspect that i dosed a bit 2 much,coz on the bottle it says 1ml per 100l. I added about 10ml,and now my zoa's r all closed up,as well as my brown starpolyps. Is it maybe because of the iodine,will it pass,and how long about? It's almost a week now.
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 6:10pm CDT by burt
this is my first time for softies exept for the nennie, need some advice, running 3 t5 54 wats 18k 12k and coral blue
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 4:06pm CDT by neo
Howdy mods,
am i allowed to post a source for books at very good prices ?
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 2:25pm CDT by Evo R
Hi all:
My ric and mushroom is touching and it looks like they are stinging each other becauase there where they are touching it looks like white burn marks and little misformed on both.
So how do/can i relocate the ric because because there is 3 other mushrooms around it.
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 2:24pm CDT by RiaanP
Its almost time to get new livestock.
Tank looks a lot better. Running from 1 April.
And before anybody jumps on my b@lls, for having fish before cycle is completed. This was a tank move. And DSB has been running on old tank since beginning of January. I had a RO mishap middle of April while I were overseas. Tank run for a week at 1.019 and my softies were not happy. Lost my hammer coral. Diatom bloom on that sand that is getting better slowly. My parameters are all OK.
Anyway, the fish I have, that comes from my old 250L system:
- Blonde Naso Tang - Naso lituratus
- Desjardini Sailfin Tang - Zebrasoma desjardini
- Ocelaris Clown - Amphiprion ocellaris
- Midas Blennie - Ecsenius midas
- Klipvis - Clinus superciliosus
- Blue Yellow Tail damsel - Chrysiptera parasema
- Dusky damsel - Abudefduf Notatus
- Golden Head Goby - Valenciennea strigata
What I do want,
- another Ocelaris Clown, but the darker orange red ones, not the faded one.
- Copperband Chelmon rostratus
What I do like
- Banggai Cardinal * 2
- Heraldi / False Lemon peel Angel
- Dottyback / pseudochromis
- purple headed firefish
- Black Head chromis
Any other suggestions.
No Anthias sorry, I cannot feed them multiple times a day. :(
I rather want a lot of smaller fish than a few large fish. Tank is 1.5 by .750 by .750.
To see the tank
http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/show...t=14665&page=6
QT tank coming up this weekend.
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 12:41pm CDT by viper357
Has anybody replaced their Octopus OTP 2000 pumps with a different type of pump that fits perfectly?
My 2 pumps on my TS3 skimmer seem to be getting a bit old and are not performing like they used to, the bottom of the bubble column within the skimmer body seems to be getting higher.
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Howzit,
Gota ask the question: How often should a lil fire shrimp shed his skin/shell?
we have had ours for like 2 months and has alredy shed 3 times?
I know its said its because its growing, but could there be other reasons, like hes unhappy with the envorionment or something?
Thanks
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 11:51am CDT by badbiker
Hi
Here I m posting some pics. need experts to check my ATS glass setup is it going to work or need some modification .
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i want to know if a 10% or 20% water change will replace calcium that is lost in your tank , i know that the calcium must be at about 420mg/l if it drops to 300mg/l will a water change replace the lost calcium or mus calcium be added ?
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Posted: May 13th, 2010, 11:09am CDT by Evo R
Fish for saleCommon Name: Bi-Color Chromis
Scientific Name: -
Size of fish 4-5cm
How long have you had the fish? 3 Months
Is the fish eating? Yes (Flakes-Blood worms)
Shipping or Collection only: Both
Your location. MosselBay
Price: Offers/Swap
Photo's: I am struggeling to load pics.Mods i will load pics today.
Notes: Hi all:
I have a pair of spawning bi color chromises.They have become to agro/teratorial for my nano.My midas blenny is constantly hidding.I would like to sell or swap for W.H.Y
Please PM me for more info.
Regards
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 1:16am CDT by Anemone
Apparently the female seahorse is not sticking to one partner! :whistling: I have just found two warning babies from another fat male.
I've moved the male to a kreisel tank that I placed inside the DT and clipped onto the side. He's a little unhappy, but hopefully he will release the rest of the fry soon and will be able to be free from the kreisel.
I haven't been able to get a good look at the two fry. They are in the kreisel with the male at the moment. However, at first glance they look to be a little under developed.
Of course, my batteries in my camera are dead!
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guys i have a aqua-medic TF5000 baby skimmer i am quite fond of and im looking for a suggestion as to a bigger pump that can be fitted to this skimmer.. The eheim pump i have is still working 100% but i was thinking of fitting something bigger..
as the Or6500 does not come out with a needle wheel impellor i was looking for other alternitives..
suggestions welcome..
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Hi Guys,If got these going for R2,500.
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Hi Peeps.
So glad i could nearly finish my new tank today, The new tank will get water 2morrow. The tank is 450L.
Wish me luck!!!!!:thumbup:
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 7:17pm CDT by FransSny
Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: My cube for sale....unfortunately
Location: CT
Shipping or Collection only: Collect
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: Ok guys with all the new stock ariving & so quickly , and the fact that I have the 3 mtr DT coming I have decided to sell my cube
Size
900 x 900 x 600 (Water level 490 due to bracing...unfortunately not rimmless :P), 10 mm glass
1 - 150 x 30 overflow chamber..dead quiet
1 - 150 x 30 pressurized return chamber
Sump (3 Chamber) 600 x 800 x 400 (h)
Stand (does need a re paint, but I will hammerite on my cost)
Light unit, (4 x 39 W, LED , cooling fans etc)..new price +/- R 1900
White melamine enclosures for stand
PRICE R 4500
Sorry guys whole system only , We can talk about delivery for CT guys. Tank will only be available in about 2 weeks
Mods I will try and upload from my pics ASAP..or just have a look here:
http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/show...t=15733&page=2
Notes: -
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hi everybody
i bought last week a green mandarin like this
most of the time it is hiding
it doesnit eat ocean neutrition food but i see it eating from the rocks and from the glass
is it a good sign eating from rocks and glass?
in the meanwile the other drgonet is eating like a monester (scooter blenny )
this fish
is that normal please advise
Amin
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 6:30pm CDT by vatso
Hi peeps
How do I build a floating ats? I want one over my DSB
need to be 30cm X 60cm how can I make one?
thanks
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Hi George,
can you please send me pricing for a replacement impeller for a 6045 (With shipping to JHB)
Thanks
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mushroom not hungry or ?
yep , me again !! when i first got this mushroom , for the first few months it was happily taking small pieces of hake once a week + - . now it hasnt taken any hake at all for 2-3 months ? it seems to be very happy and healthy ! should i be concerned ? does it eat pelletts or flakes as im sure some fall on it during feeding ?
what else can i try ?
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brown algae
me again !!!
sorry , just learning learning learning
lasrt few weeks i am getting loads of soft,brown algae on my glass and on the sand !
thw tank is getting some direct sunlight in late afternoons due to winter sun for a few hours !
could this be the problem ?
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 3:46pm CDT by student
Hi guys.
So I'm about to repaint my living room, where my tank is. And then the thought popped into my head that the fumes might absorb into the water and poison the fish or something??
Any insight on this??
Thanks!!
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 3:25pm CDT by Neil H
Some background and Inspiration
Well when I first started my current marine tank I was under the illusion that this would be the perfect tank, I THOUGHT I had read enough, that I had done enough research etc etc etc
When I set out with that tank I had no intention of keeping SPS, and the list of thought and didnt realize goes on and on and on
I have had this tank for bout 2 years now, and have achieved some great successes while continuously learning about this amazing hobby
for the most part I have been very patient with stocking and learnt to research the creatures I want to keep in great depth before buying them
.. and have been rewarded with very few deaths and a great reef as a result
.. An unfortunate incident where I lost 13 of my prized fish in a tank move came close to ending this hobby for me, but I have decided to press forward !
So last year October when I was in the Amazon doing some geological research I received an e-mail from my lovely non reefer wife who said that she was sick of us renting a house in JHb and that it was time to settle down etc etc
. The mail went on for quite a bit, although as a reefer all I read was we buying a house
you get to have your dream tank !!!! at least that is the way I interpreted it. So when I was back in the land of smoke and taxis, we started looking of a suitable abode
. Not an easy task as many of you I am sure will attest to !
As we looked through house after house after house I was imagining tank after tank after tank
.. eventually we found what we were looking for and made an offer, it was accepted and the rest is history. Looking at those initial pics we took of the house way back in November I realized that of the 50 odd pics a good 30 of them were taken with potential tank positions in mind (a fact that non reefer has subsequently noticed).
So before I go and talk about the tank I am busy building I thought I would post pics of SOME of the systems that have inspired me to go ahead and build this dream tank of mine
.
This is simply a snap shot of some of the tanks that have blown my mind it is not an exhaustive list, some I am sure you will recognize others are from overseas forums
I will continue with what has happened with the new tank build when I get some time this evening hopefully
.. rest assured it will be something VERY different to what you may think
.
The build has progressed to some extent, so be patient :P
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afternoon all
when dosing iodine ! how much should i dose ? daily ?
my tank + - 1300 liotres
thanks in advance
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 2:58pm CDT by Wolve
hi guys i want to add a ATS onto my system. what i want to know is can i run the outlet from my chiller into the spraybars of the ATS. screens will be 2 no off about 300x300, the chiiler pump is 1000 l/h. is this advisable, is the pump flow rate too low. my other option is to add a 3200 l/h pump with a tee and ball valves with about a 1000 l/h to the chiller and the rest to the ATS.
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Okey guys, I got this interesting link about the diffs between an ATS and Macro's... SantaMonica wrote it...;)
http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/...c.php?f=9&t=67
Anyway, this thread is obviously very PRO ATS - understandibly.
My question is though, what do you do to get the macro's to do the same as an ATS. An ATS has it's own drawbacks too, so if I decide to got with Macro's, how do I get it as good as my current ATS?
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 1:33pm CDT by wringo
hi my friends:
i want to know what is the UV flitration benefites and that have it any effect on wihte spote?
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Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title: Tank with CLS and many corals for sale
Location: Brakpan - East Rand
Shipping or Collection only: Collection only
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: TOTAL Price including all livestock: R7500 NOT negotiable
Tank (drilled euro braced) incl Cabinet and Stand: 1000x500x500
Sump: including 2yr old DSB: 910x310x310
2x 5500 l/ph external pumps for CLS feed (must accompany tank)
CLS with 5x 25mm outlets and ballvales
Tank AS A UNIT: Total Price: R3500
Breakdown of other items and pricing:
Fish List:
1x Yellowbelly Regal Tang +/- 10cm - R200
1x Lemonpeel Angelfish +/- 10cm - R200
3x Fourstripe Damsels +/- 2-3cm - R70 each
1x Yellow Watchman Goby +/- 8cm - R150
2x Bluegreen Chromis +/- 3cm - R50 each
TOTAL: R860
Note all fish are healthy and eating flakes, frozen food, cyclopeeze and Nori
Coral List:
2x Large Yellow Suncorals (PRIME SPECIMENS) R250 each
1x Medium Orange Suncoral R150
1x Medium yellow/orange suncoral (two colors on one rock) R200
1x Rare Small Polyp suncoral R150
1x Rare orange branching suncoral R200
1x Branching Black Suncoral R200
2x Metallic Green leather coral +/- 70mm diameter R100 each
1x Large Kenya Tree with mushroom and tubeworm on rock R150
1x Red Menella Gorgonian (VERY NICE SPECIMEN) R200
1x Pink/Purple Acabaria Delicata Gorgonian (rare) R200
1x Blueberry Gorgonian - has some tissue damage R100
1x Large Chili Coral R150
TOTAL: 2400
Lighting:
1x 39W Giesemann T5 - Actinic R120
1x 39W Giesemann T5 - Pure Actinic R120
1x 39W Reeftek 10000K R100
Dual 39W Ballast with waterproof endcaps - R400

Notes: Guys
Reason for selling is that we are moving into another house, with less space. I am busy building a smaller cube, so I will not be selling any of my current Liverock, zoa's and other softies.
I would prefer to sell this as one complete unit, so please do not make offers on individual items - yet... ;)
This is one of the very few 100% nennie safe systems. I can forward more individual pics should you need any.
Thanks
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Posted: May 12th, 2010, 10:53am CDT by Naiema
To keep you in touch with new Marines we have landed...ie Powdwer Blues, Butterflies, Scopas, Lineatus, Butterflies, Stars, Cleaner,Dancing, Fire and Boxer shrimps, Triggers and more. Pepperment shrimps also in stock. Please call us on : 0217122534/0826368990
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Hi Guys. I have a Reef Octopus ORCA-100 in sump skimmer. rated 600 litres
Its only been running for 3 weeks now and for the past 2 days the pump sounds like a diesel truck idling. Please can someone tell me what this noise is or what it could be :baffled:
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 2:16am CDT by badbiker
Hi
Fire shrimp in my 120g tank is missing I removed all my live rocks looking for shrimp but I have no idea where it gone ???:(:(
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 1:49am CDT by shaun777
Hi
I'm new here. Leslie is building me a tank...1500 x 700 x 700 approx 735l.
The stand is made from: legs - 50 x 50 x 2mm @ 850mm high.
Base for tank - 50 x 50 x 2mm @ 1550 x 750mm.
Base for tank braced with 2 x cross pieces of 50 x 50 x 2.
Legs braced 100mm from floor with 50 x 5mm flat bar.
Something I almost forgot is that the legs each have an adjustable foot on made from flat bar and 20mm threaded bar. Will these hold?
Had a guy make it up for me. Considering that it'll weigh almost a ton I was wondering if it would be strong enough to hold the weight?
Look forward to your comments.
Thanks
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Does anyone have an application, or know where to find an application which can be used on a PC which facilitates most fish, Corals nd Invertabrates in an informative chart based application, offering you information about the various specimens and also their compatibility within a marine tank?
I have seen a few applications for touch screen phones and iPhone etc, but not much said about PC applications.
One can google info for sure, but why do that if there is a pre-existing application which is potentially a masive time saver. I have found sometimes googleng compatibility between species not too successfull.
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 11:23pm CDT by keyaam
Yo guys
Im kinda bored tonight and have been digging up some old threads. Is it just me or does it seem that the neat systems just seem to run better. I hope some of you dont mind that im using you as an example. From sump to DT everything seems to be in order without running any additional fancy equipment. here are a few examples and in no particular order.
1) Mudshark Skimmerless reef (No skimmer)
2) Mekaeels SPS Reef ( full on sps without CARX. Not sure if you connected it yet)
3) Takumis old reef ( Very basic MASA setup Liverock DSB and skimmer)
4) Leslies 1.2m reef ( No DSB)
5) Gawies old nano ( in tank DSB and hang on skimmer no sump)
6) Adees tank
7) Sunny X
8) Tobes old shallow reef ( the new one should live up to that)
9) Kunhardt 1.8m Reef
10) Clinton Stanford
There are so many more systems to add but just browse these threads and see. The attention to detail some of you guys display is phenomenal. So many guys spend tons a $$$$$ and cannot compare to the most simplest of tanks. There are a few examples of these on many forums but I will not point that out.
cheers
k
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 10:48pm CDT by Jaak

Has anyone seen any of these is South Africa? Why are they not freely available here?
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 9:37pm CDT by neo
Pls help.:banghead:
seems my brain coral is dying.
I reduced my lights for the last week trying to fight a bad cyno outbreak, and adjusted my pumps for more flow over substrate for same reason, also did a 20% water change on 1 May.
Then I went on an overseas trip and my wife looked after the tank, but the pumps where blowing sand onto the brain and it got angry and produced some web-like threads, my wife gently rinsed the sand of inside the tank (basicly waving the brain in the water) and re-located the brain (she was strugling to adjust the pumps), but then the brain realy got mad and now it looks very bad and i think it's dying.
What can i do ???
I did another 20% water change on the 9th when i got back and upped the lights to 75% the normal strenth.
Pls. help.
Bad cellphone pics but it should give an indication of the brain's state.
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 8:55pm CDT by badbiker
Hi
In here (DXB) I searched every where to get calcium reactor but unfortunately no one selling it so I'd like to know is calcium reactor important to our tanks or it's some thing additional. if yes is there any other method of adding calcium to tank
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I finaly caught my mantis shrimp, who out there REALLY wants this little critter?
I already have one person who wouldn't mind dropping him into his tank for his other mantis to play WWE with, however I thought I would give it a fighting chance for somone who might want to keep him/her before taking that step...
Dibs on for person with the highest enthusiasm :thumbup:, sort of like an unofficial auction maybe?
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 6:17pm CDT by ziyaadb
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 2:15pm CDT by Dane
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Hi all you metal experts...
If one builds a stand from something like squere tubing, is it a must to powdercoat it. From what I understand, and know, NO metal on earth will not eventually rust.
My question is, if you just give it a couple of layers of anti-rust, then respray over it, would that be sufficient?
I know, that the moment you get a scratch, no matter what you treated with, you will get rust.
Your thoughts please...
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Hi Guys,
Pete and myself are gonna be busy building my new Rimless 1500x1000x700 tank soon.
I just received my Tunze Wave Box !!!
Can't wait to test it after work !!! Hee Haa:thumbup:
Will post some pics of my new tank as soon as we gonna start !!;)
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Hallo all
My name is Oscar im a Masters student in environmental Science in Potchefstroom
I am brand new in the marine aquarium environment, so i have no knowledge at this stage of the race but would like to learn from you guys.
I got a 1500mm x 500mm x 700mm tank with a double reinforced bottom 10mm all round as a gift and decided that i would like to begin a marine aquarium.
I started with aquariums and fish about 7 years ago and have been breeding with tropical live bearers, Oscars and Angels.
And thus i finally decided that i would like to begin with marine fishes as they have always fascinated me when going diving.
Well hope to learn alot.
Oscar
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 12:02pm CDT by Moolis
Hi Reefers
We are receiving only 20 clams today.
Next week they will be R450-00 for a week and then R500-00.
BUT ONLY THIS WEEK @ R395-00 each:slayer:
Before you ask:
- This is in store prices (shipping guys, send a friend to pick up please)
- The species is Tridacna crocea
- Colours? will only see this afternoon :P
So do not wait till next week, come NOW and get your CLAM Today!
Moolis
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 11:46am CDT by emteey
Hi there,
What skimmer would you recommend for my tank? (+-650l)
I was looking at Reef Octopus extreme 160-INT (900l) or the Reef Octopus ORCA 135-INT (900l)?
Are these litre ratings accurate?
Any other brands I should look out for?
Suggestions please :thumbup:
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Hi to all the MASA members. Though I have been following the posts on this website for more than a year (And its really helped me many times in starting off with marines) Its good to finally be part of the community.
Before I ask for some help, I just want to give you a bit of my history and info on my setup and how I got started on marines.
I currently have 100L (No name brand) all in one Nano setup, which was given to me by one of my good mates about a year and a half ago when I started getting interested in the marine aquarium hobby.
It took me awhile to get the tank running as I had to repair cracks and leaks. I had to start the tank over 4 times because of annoying leaks.
Ever since then I have done masses amount of research, read many forum posts and I have successfully been running my 100l setup for more than a year now.
I currently have the following livestock in the tank;
2 x Red legged Hermit crab
1 X Blue legged Hermit crab
1 X Turbo Snail
2 X Clown fish
1 X Fire Goby (Fire fish)
1 X Six Line wrasse
1 X Bi-colour Blenny
1 X African flame back Angel (Jumping Bean I have heard some call it)
1 X Torch Coral (Clowns currently hosting in it)
1 X Hammer Coral
Various types of mushrooms, polyps and tube worms
I know it seems like a lot of livestock for such a small tank, but all the fish are small in size and I do a 25% water change on weekly basis and I also do regular testing of all my water parameters.
The problem I face now has me a bit nervous.
The 1st of July i will be moving to a new house and need to move my current setup.
Because of this and the fact that I have had many leak problems with my current tank I have purchased a new 250l tank.
I need to know what the quickest and best method would be to get the new tank up and running and move all my livestock from my old tank to the new one.
I only have 2 days to do this in and cycling the new tank for 4 weeks is not an option.
The current steps that I am thinking of taking is as follows.
1.Transferring the majority of sand and water from the old tank to the new one.
2.Transferring the majority of the ceramic rings from the old tank to the new one.
3.Transferring all my live rock to the new tank
4.Lastly Transfer all livestock to the new tank.
Could this work? I really dont have time to cycle the new tank for 4 weeks, as I have 2 days to move my equipments and there is a 90% change that the old tank will leak again once moved.
I also cant keep the old tank up and running while the new tank is being cycled.
Let me know your thoughts
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 9:37am CDT by Mudshark
Hi Hennie. One of the local reefers has asked me for some sand from my DBS to seed his own new one. This practice seems to be quite common as you often hear of similar requests. I'm not particularly convinced that it's a good idea though. Ok, I know that the DSB will recover in no time at all, but it is a good 5% of the footprint that is temporarily interrupted, and there will be further anaerobic bacterial die-off as oxygenated water reaches new regions. Could this cause a chain reaction? Would I be releasing anything bound in the DSB into the water column?
I'd appreciate you esteemed opinion on the subject.
Broder.
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 9:25am CDT by lanzo
Hey Guys
I have been very busy setting up the new shop in centurion....progress pictures will follow later on.
I would like to welcome one more member to the Dorry Pets family....Some of you might know him:
Dewald
= Tiger he bought into Dorry Pets Centurion and is my Business Partner to help Dorry Pets centurion with all your marine requirements.
Dorry Pets PTA will still be active but wont be a shop....only a office to perform administration functions.
You will still be able to buy your products while we are busy setting up the new shop.
Just give me or Dewald a call and you can come and collect the product at the new shop.
If you cant get hold of us you can also contact Frans
Here is Dewalds contact details:
dewald@dorrypets.co.za Cel: 082 936 9908
The new shop tel nr will be up and running later this week and we will email it to all( and post it on masa)
We have a estimated launch date for Centurion: 1 June 2010
With allot of corals and fish coming in soon.
Some info about the new shop:
- We will have a research lounge...so you can come and park and visit us the whole day...we will have coffee and coldrinks for you guys while you wait the traffic out.
- We wll have informational books about marines in the lounge
- Wireless internet will be available for you guys...to surf masa or do more research
- We want to start a database with the progress of your tank...so each time you come and visit please bring us a updated picture of your tank and engine room on a flash disk.(this is to ensure that we know exatly how your system is doing and to give us a better idea of the marine advice we need to give you, and to keep your sytem up and running on the right way)
- Extended bussiness hours
- More tanks which means more fish and corals and a bigger variaty to choose from.
- More stock on the floor so no more waiting for products that we didnt have;)
- Dorry Pets will make Marnines even more affordable and your bying experiance one to remember!!:peroni:
Hope to see you soon
Cheers
Lanzo & Dewald
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Posted: May 11th, 2010, 9:17am CDT by Dane
Hey guys,
I've got a friend coming back from the states in a bit, and I wanted to find out what the technicalities and legalities are of buy stuff in the states and then having him bring it back here.
Mostly softies like zoas/shrooms/rics... They should survive the 2/3 day transport?
But whats the story with customs, permits etc?
Thanks in advance
D
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 11:33pm CDT by Dane
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 11:30pm CDT by manta
I have never posted a full description and photo's of my set-up so here goes. I have been busy building a new filtration system as shown under DIY pages and now it is all connected.
DT 1200X450X500 (Total Volume = 320l including sumps and Refug)
DSB Small - 160 X 400 (about 6months old)
New DSB - 630 X 400 (cycle for 5 weeks before connecting to system)
Refugium - 480 X 400 (cycle for 5 weeks before connecting to system)
Lights - 6 X 54w T5's 3X12000k 2XActinic and 1X Coral Blue
TS2 - Reeftek Skimmer
5000l/hr Hailea return Pump
Circulation
1XSunsun JVP Vibration pump (5000l/hr)
1XSeiprop 1000l/hr
Temperature control is by digitally by electronic temp control with PT100.
(DIY)
Arriving soon Heilea 400l Chiller and Aqaumedic auto top-up
I must add that I am rather proud ofmyself having done all the building and work myself. The only thing I have not done was the DT (Which Leslie Hempel fixed 4 years ago)
Well here are the photo's ( I am not very good at photography)
FTS - with flash on
FTS - With flah off
Temperature Control Unit.
Small original DSB
New DSB and Refugium
ATS - Have to re-do as there is too much splashing in ATS (this weekend's job)
Would appreciate comments.
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 9:43pm CDT by Dean76
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 9:15pm CDT by Jaak
Hi Guys,
Does anyone know anything about this skimmer? Anyone ever use them before? Any feedback on this would be great! Apparently it's rated for 1500l and it's an insump skimmer with a tunze/sicce pump.
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Can anyone help me out here I know the picture sucks but its the best i can do. I got two clowns and the bigger one of the two has a mark or something on the left hand side just where the gill ends. he hasnt eaten food in 3 days now, but other wise seems to be actting normal, I'm getting a little worried about him. Anything i can or should be doing?
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 6:13pm CDT by Enrico
hey im enrico im 13years old me and my father are into marine aquariums. im about to start my own nano tank 100l, i would like to give breeding clown fish a try any recommended species or advice welcome. My dad already has a 600 liter tank quit succseful with fish he is also now trying to set himself up a reef tank he already has most of the equiptment like metal headlights phosoban reactor sump and canister filter.Any advice on that also welcome and where i can get a breeding pair for my nano tank.:)
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hello all
i have recently got my setup going with RO tank and mixing my own salt water !
question - im sure there are many theories out there , but which reef salt is best to use and what are the pros and cons !!!
so many diff' brands available - confused puppy :whistling:
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 2:48pm CDT by milflo
Howzit Marco
With reference to your PM, can you send me a link to the filter on the web?
Thanks
Miles
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 1:58pm CDT by Hawkvr
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 1:17pm CDT by Dane
So!
How do you like your frags prepared?
I
HATE tiles! But I dont really have a proper frag setup... I can see the benefits. I much prefer the natural look of a piece of coral.
Anyone using plugs? Anyone PREFER their stuff unattached?
Some round plugs
Tiles
Natural coral fragments/chips
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Hi All,
The Good News is that I have finally gotten to the point at which all the cool little critters are going into the tank.
I have had one loss. it was a Turbo Snail that was eaten by one of my hermit crabs.
The hermit is quite large, about the size of a golf ball with its shell. brownish red and Hairy with tiny blue speckles. not sure what species it is but do you think it is likely that the hermit killed the snail or that the snail died of natural causes as my water quality tests perfect across the board?
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 9:59am CDT by 459b
A few thoughts regarding the selling/swapping of frags.
Please be honest about the frags you are trading
"Attached" is not the same as "glued it this morning"
Just because you saw a guy on youtube cut his coral into a million miniscule pieces does not mean you can do the same. Cutting into tiny pieces does not show how good you are with a knife.
Corals must be cut in a way that both the mother colony and frags will sustain as little damage as possible.
Superglue does work to stick corals to rock/tiles....BUT this does not mean you need to use a whole tube. Use sparingly and dont get the glue on the polyps.
If you are using tiles (which i dont have a problem with and use all the time) please take the time to wash off the glue that was used to attach the tile to the sheet that it came on. Its really not difficult.
Be descriptive as you can about colour. If the coral is a dull brown, then call it dull brown. Saying "Its a really unique brown-ish colour, but it does have light tints of bright purple if you hold it correctly under actinics" is simply dishonest.
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Hi
I read this in a Coral Magazine, and wanted to see it for myself. Here is a an article on how wild Mandarin Fish are caught. Within the article it states that this is the best way to do it, basically being the lesser of two evils, but EVIL stays EVIL.
My question is also, what if they miss? And how many Mandarin fish are just killed in this excersize?
Mandarinfish
Mini Spearguns and why thats better than the status quo
Part 2
.
Because mandarinfish (
Synchiropus splendidus) spend most of their time hidden away within the reef, they are very difficult to catch using a standard collection net. The high demand within the hobby places a lot of pressure on fishermen to collect as many of these fish as possible. Therefore fishermen often resort to the use of cyanide, which can greatly increase catch rates. However, the overall long-term health of these fish becomes severally jeopardized.
However, while I was in Bali a promising alternative fishing technique utilizing a miniature speargun emerged from the Philippines. MAC invited in a Filipino fisherman to demonstrate how to build and use this contraption.
Here a series of photos demonstrates the making of the gun itself:
Here Ding Dong, the Filipino fisherman/trainer, shows the group of fishermen how the gun will work, and where to shoot the mandarinfish (the tail fin) without causing it any permanent damage.

Then the trainees built their own spearguns utilizing Ding Dongs advice. First, an impression of the gun is drawn onto the wood.

Next the gun is carved out of the wood block
.

Here is the rough outline of the carved wooden speargun ( The Balinese have some of the biggest smiles on the planet

Next, strips of bamboo are cut to form the spear shaft

A paper clip is straightened out and then bent in half to create a dual-pronged spear. The ends of the paper clip are sharpened with sand paper.

The paper clip is then fastened to the end of the bamboo spear shaft with monofilament fishing line

Here is the finished gun. The spear is attached to the gun with a long rubber band that provides the thrust to launch it. A plastic straw provides the barrel that will ensure a straight shot.

So now, how does this whole spear the fish without killing it thing work out? When the mandarinfish are active at dawn or dusk, they expose themselves much more than they do throughout the rest of the day when they are safe within the coral branches. The fisherman can get close enough with his spear (< 2 feet) that he can aim to shoot the fish right through the tail fin. The dual tip allows the fish to be pinned down against the sand and rubble bottom. The fisherman then has just enough time to catch the fish with his hands, and remove the spear point from the tail. The end result is that the fish only receives two tiny holes in the tail. Of course, I have to ask myself, What if they miss the tail, but hit the body?. I will make myself believe that the learning curve is fast, and that the fishermen are expert shots underwater
.

To anyone who has seen how fast and easily fish can repair and regrow their fins, it becomes apparent how minor this injury really is.

In a holding tank on Pulau Seribu (1000 Islands), Indonesia I observed about 100 recently caught mandarinfish. Most were already well on their way towards being healed. I would imagine that by the time these fish reach retail aquarium stores, the buyer would have no idea that this was the method that the fish was caught. Which, of course, presents a problem in the sense that it is still impossible to discern a cynanid-caught mandarinfish from a spear-caught fish. Therefore, really the best advice that I could give when it comes to purchasing a mandarinfish is:
1) Make sure your reef tank is large enough and well-established enough to support a live food population capable of sustaining a foraging mandarinfish. Eventually you might be able to get it to eat frozen or pellet food, but initially dont count on it.
2) Only buy a mandarinfish that seems eager and active. Check for sunken bellies, as this is a clear indication that the fish is not eating well, or recieving nutrition. Sometimes even mandarinfish that will eat a little bit will still ultimately waste away. This is most likely the case with many cyanide-caught mandarinfish that initially seem healthy.3) Keep in mind that these beautiful fish come from the wild and are not simply another replaceable aquarium component. Educate yourself as much as possible, and do your best to avoid buying cyanide-caught fish and marinelife.
4) Seek out aquacultured fish. There is already a company in France that is raising aquacultured mandarinfish, so hopefully it will only be a short time before this fish is more commercially viable as a cultured fish here in the US.
Source:
[coralmorphologic.com]
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Posted: May 10th, 2010, 9:32am CDT by Gixxerk4
Does anybody in the JHB/PTA region have a bit of Fern Caulerpa to spare? Would be much appreciated ;)
Gix
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I have noticed that every time I find a teddy crab in my DT (of which seem to be breeding out worse than mice), I just catch them and bomb them into my sump - or hand them to friends with hungry Mantis Shrimp :whistling:
I noticed another 1 in my DT tonight, caught 1 of the 2 I saw last night so I am guessin that I only have the 2 left - not sure...
Are these things good or bad in a reef tank? Are there was of getting rid of them without comprimising the LS or fish? Or should one just ignore them?
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Posted: May 9th, 2010, 9:34pm CDT by Lemar
Hi
My nitrate reading is quite high (has been for a couple of months).
Approx 30-50. I have a good skimmer and algae scrubber so it doesn't make sense
Bought a TDS meter to test my water and this is what I got:
Municipal Water = 274
R/O water = 60
R/O water in my top-up drum = 80
Does this mean my R/O unit is not good enough, or is there maybe some kind of contamination? Is our municipal water reading so high that the R/O unit just can't keep up?
Does anyone know whether there a solution for the problem or will we have to invest in a new R/O unit (which I really hope is not the case due to $$$)
Thanks
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Fish for saleCommon Name: lion fish, black volitan
Scientific Name: -
Size of fish about 100mm long
How long have you had the fish? 6 months
Is the fish eating? eats normal marine pellets happily, eats anything though
Shipping or Collection only: collection only
Your location. durban
Price: Free
Photo's:
Notes: I got givin this lion fish from some lighty that caught it in a rock pool, thank god he is still alive. it was about 30mm when i got it and is now about 100mm. I tried to feed him krill and all the other suggested stuff but he seems to prefer omega one marine pellets with garlic which im not complaining about. hes more than double the size of my goldy and shrimp and hasnt tried to eat them yet nor has he touched my corals. whether he will stay that way is up to him =) hes as placid as my two clowns, if not more.
I hate to let him go but my nano is just about to small for him now.
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Posted: May 9th, 2010, 4:12pm CDT by Dane
Hey guys,
I was given a few plates of optically corrected glass. This is the glass used as a coverplate on fotocopy machines - the piece you put the paper over and it scans the image through.
Does anyone know anything about this stuff? Will it cut out a lot less light than normal glass? I'm planning a DIY light hood and want to use this as the "baseplate" below the unit to protect from splash/creep.
Thanks much.
D
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Posted: May 9th, 2010, 3:24pm CDT by Slummies
Hey guys
what are your thoughts of this fish?
i dont seem them in and petshops and looking at the suppliers list they dont show up on the eastern regions list.
not much info out there either. sad though, this fish is striking and will be getting one from a very reliable source!!
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Posted: May 9th, 2010, 3:03pm CDT by Dikdaan
Single frag for saleCommon Name: Pin Cushion
Scientific Name: -
Size of coral 5-7cm on LR
How long have you had the coral? 6weeks
Shipping or Collection only: collection
Your location. Pta
Price: Make an offer
Photo's: I dont have a pic as my camera doesnt work...will mms a pic if you send me your number
Notes: Its a frag off the mother colony, that is massive...Have a look in my album if you want to see the mother. The frags are 6weeks old now...
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Posted: May 8th, 2010, 1:36am CDT by badbiker
Hi
What size of sand (DSB) is good for sump
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Posted: May 8th, 2010, 5:29pm CDT by Sofy
Hi,
Thanks to all the people who put this site together for newbies like me to understand more about reefing and share their experience's with all.
Cheer`s
:thumbup: Sofy
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Hardware for saleThread title:Reeftek TS 1 Skimmer
Location:Centurion
Shipping or Collection only:Collect
Photo's and description/list of items for sale:
Notes:Hi Guys,
If got a Reeftek TS 1 Forsale.
Price R 700:thumbup:
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Posted: May 8th, 2010, 12:05pm CDT by Naiema
To let you know about our instore specials for this week-end. Rock bottom prices for clowns,Damsels, Chromis, Spotted& Banggai Cardinals. Stunning fish in stock, ie Majestics, Blue face, Yellow &Magnifica Foxface,Butterflies, Regals, Scopas & Pyjama Tangs as well Bi Colours, Coral Beauties& Rustys. PLease call us for the best deals on 0217122534/0826368990
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Posted: May 8th, 2010, 10:03am CDT by ziyaadb
Hi all
I have a bit of caulerpa that needs pruning, I live in Lenasia south and work in Praktown, PM me if u want some.
Pics of it is here:
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
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My Version in starting a Marine tank :biggrin:
To all Newbies, Please listen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok, I just had to say it- :razz: :razz: :razz: , will delete it later.
What to buy 1st when you want to start in Reef Keeping:
AND DO THIS IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER TO PREVENT PROBLEMS DOWN THE LINE.
1.) If you cannot ACCESS internet- Any Aquarist book written by Proffessional People.If you can access internet, then follow these links:
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
2.) Proper Test Kit to be able to test for:
.................................................. .... Amonia
.................................................. .... Nitrites
.................................................. .... Nitrates
.................................................. .... Phosphates
.................................................. .... PH
.................................................. .... Calcium
.................................................. .... Salinity
The reason for this is that I see a lot of people buying a tank etc etc 1st, and then do not have enough money left for the really important stuff, like test kits.
3.) Protein Skimmer for the size of the tank you going to get- eventually
4.) RO water Machine
5.) Couple of empty 20lt drums- to either carry natural seawater or to mix saltwater
6.) Lights- you need to get this if you know what size tank you going to get. And if you do not know much about the muchness of lights and types, start reading this:
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
[www.marineaquariumsa.com]
And here you can work out what it will cost you eventually when you start lighting up the skies:
http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/ele...i?submit=Entry
7.) You are almost ready to buy your tank, but......... before you do, get an idea of what you want to keep eventually and work towards your goal. Any hasty decisions (adding fish just to get some life into a tank) is gonna add up AND EMPTY YOUR WALLET ;)
So, start reading up about the types of fish you want to keep, if you do not have a clue, start reading here:
[www.marinereef.org]
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/fis...-a-Saltwater-/
Excellent info here too:
http://www.aqua-fish.net/saltwater/?...r-fish-records
[www.fishbase.org]
All you need to know:
[www.starfish.ch]
Some popular fish behaviour etc:
[www.janetsreef.com]
Some usefull links to keep:
[microcosm-books.com]
[www.ultimatereef.net]
[www.arkive.org]
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/a...plies.cfm?c=15
Not fish, but you'll want to know this eventually:
[www.seaslugforum.net]
I really like this site- It has everything, and a bit more:thumbup: :
[www.starfish.ch]
8.) So, know you know what you want, and you've already studied and bought all of the expensive stuff. It is now a good time to plan your tank wrt viewing panes, placement etc. Go out there and find yourself a good tank builder, or if you the DIY type, build your tank.
9.) Read up on Filtration Systems, meaning a DSB Filter tank. There are quite a few good ideas wrt filter tanks on this Forum.
10.) Nothing beats good old Live Rock- The pros can help you settle this, and you can get them at a good, reputable LFS.
Hope the above information could help someone. I know people does it the other way round, but I have seen too many tanks collapsed because people are given tanks, buy tanks etc, and then end up not having the right equipment to finish/maintain a reef tank- Oh, and Before I forget---- IT IS AN EXPENSIVE HOBBY, BUT IF YOU STICK TO THE BASICS, IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE THAT EXPENSIVE.
GOOD LUCK:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Posted: May 7th, 2010, 6:10pm CDT by Mudshark
Hardware for saleThread title: Wanted: Skimmer
Location: EL
Shipping or Collection only: Shipping or collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: I'm looking for a bargain external skimmer with at least a 2500 l/hr recirculating pump.
Notes: -
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Posted: May 7th, 2010, 3:50pm CDT by Moolis
As usual we landed a shipment this week J
This what we got:
Centropyge eibli - Eibli angel
Pomacanthus imperator/juvenile - Imperator angel
Pomacanthus semicirculatus/adult - Koran angel
Heniochus acuminatus medium/large - White banner fsh
Zanclus cornutus - Moorish idol
Mirolabrichthys evansi - Evansi goldie
Valenciennea puellaris - Diamond goby
Acanthurus leucosternon (M) - Powder Blue Tang
Acanthurus pyroferus - Eibli mimic tang
Acanthurus tennenti (M/L) - Tenneti surgeon;)
Ctenochaetus strigosus - Yellow eyes tang
Naso lituratus / large - Lippstick tang
Naso vlamingi - Vlamingi surgeon:thumbup:
Gomphosus varius / male Green bird wrasse
Naso lituratus / medium - Lippstick tang
Valenciennea Sexguttata - Sand goby
Istiblennius Chrysospilos - Orange spotted blenny
See you this weekend
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Posted: May 7th, 2010, 11:21am CDT by flappy
Hardware for saleThread title:Brand New 250 watt Metal Halide Units
Location:Cape Town
Shipping or Collection only:Both
Photo's and description/list of items for sale:Metal Halide lights
Hi Guys
I have three unused 250 watt Metal Halide units for sale.
They have brackets and can be mounted.
Still in original boxes.
R990 each.
I am currently at work but I will post pics once I get home and can access them from my home PC
Notes:-
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Was just wondering how you guys fine tune salinity and if there is an "easy" way ? :P
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Hardware for saleThread title: Sump for sale
Location: Cape town
Shipping or Collection only: Collection
Photo's and description/list of items for sale: hi guys i got this sump built that it now looks like i cant use due to space constraints. it hasnt been used at all and im willing to let it go at a reasonable price.
650mm wide, 900mm long, 450mm high. The RO chamber is 100mm wide and full height aswell as length RO chamber holds 50 liters.
Notes: -
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HI ALL,
NEW FISH IN STORE HOLDING SYSTEMS. :thumbup:
ANGEL HEAVEN.......
HERALDI,FLAME,QUEEN,VENUS,BICOLOUR,CORAL BEAUTY,MAJESTIC.
LARGE ASSORTMENT OF GOBIES,BLENNIES,TANGS,ANTHIUS,COPPERBANDS AND DOTTYBACKS.
OPEN SATURDAYS 8AM TO 4PM.
Be well,cheers for now.
Idol Marine Crew.
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Posted: May 6th, 2010, 2:24pm CDT by neil.h
Maybe i'm fussy but i'm not a fan of purple coralline algae taking over a tank. Yes its a sign of a healthy tank in balance, still don't like it.
Been looking around at coralline grazers and i'm loving the tuxedo pincushion urchins
Worth keeping as an algae muncher or rather go for a lawnmower blenny and spiky urchin ie Diadema genus
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has anyone got a set of the above laying spare they wouldent mind parting with?
i have the pump but these parts are faulty...
perhaps i have something to trade or am willing to buy...
let me know
Les
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Posted: May 6th, 2010, 12:37pm CDT by Sentari
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Hi Guys
I have been wanting to open a thread like this, more as refference for newbies. ;) There are a couple of FAQ's that floats inside many heads like:
What are your thoughts about water changes?
What are the pro's and con's?
How often must one do a water change?
What volume of water change should be done?
Is water changes "diluting" your good bacteria life?
Please feel free to add your 2c or even R2 here...
Thanks ;)
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Hi guys, as far as i know, the only parameters we can read digitally are:
pH
Redox
Temperature
Salinity
If i remember correctly the expensive controllers like the Hanna(is the hanna?) can read PO4 etc digitally, but with limited knowledge and resources the top 4 are what i could use. I understand the relationships between some of the parameters, like Ca and alk for one, when alk is high Ca is low.. So using the 4 things i can test for digitally is there a way i could estimate some of the other parameter levels? Or would i still be stuck doing manual tests?
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Posted: May 6th, 2010, 11:00am CDT by Naiema
Had to let you know our new corals have landed as well as a stunning shipment of fish..ie... Blue face, Navarchus, Blue Throat triggers,Foxface Magnificus, Regals, Butterflies, Eels, Scopas, Lineatus, Anemones, Banggais, Bi colours, clowns & more...too many to mention! Call on : 0217122534/0826368990
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Good day
I noticed these guys swimming around in their hundreds in my tank last night... Your obvious conclusion would be that it is hatched fish eggs right? Wrong... As this is inside my Mantis Shrimp tank, and there are no fish in it.
I have also not added new LR or coral to it for a while. What I do however do, is to take water from my mixed reef, and use that water for wc, but then I only syphon water from the top part of the tank, an nowhere near rock work.
I also do not and have not added any brine shrimp to the system lately, although I do feed my tube anemone's frozen brine.
What could it be?
YouTube- Fishies?
I took a photo too, and enlarged it via Photoshop. This is the best I could get for now, I can maybe try and take even closer macro shot this evening if you can't ID.
Here's the close up, and the best shot I got as these guys don't sit on the glass, they move all the time as per the movie clip:
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Posted: May 6th, 2010, 9:37am CDT by ziyaadb
I am in the process of making my Lighting unit 8*54W T5 and alanod(92% reflective, mirror finish - its the best they have) is the route i am going in regards to the reflector/s. What i want to know is how much of a difference will it make if i make individual reflectors compared to just 1 large reflector for the lighting.
As 1 large reflector will be much easier to make
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Posted: May 6th, 2010, 9:31am CDT by Mekaeel
Some awesome livestock there! I see you guys battling with some Phosphates there Bob? What filtration system system you using?
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 2:16am CDT by Dane
Hey I'm sure the pro's know this one, but just stumbled acoss a great site for varietal IDs etc.
[www.coralpedia.com]
Wicked cool site even if its just to drool at the colours on some of those zoas etc!!
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I jus purchased a hammer this afternoon, polyps are out an all is well but what do i feed and how fast does this dude grow? an my mum(an idiot) picked this sample out so its fairly nice, will post pics asap.
parameters
everthing zero due to dsb, t5's and huge chaeto bush! all useful cations at 113 percent recomended level(Mg, Ca and St....)
TS1 skimmer
SeaChem purigen - amazing stuff!!!! i cannot stress the amazingness!!
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I have a little brown mantis shrimp hiding out in one of my rocks, barely got a glimps of it the other day but by the time I got back with my camera he was gone. At first I had no clue what it was, until recently I put some muscles on top of the rock he is hiding in and all to find it has smashed them to pieces...
How do I catch this little guy?
And once I got it, what do I do with it?
I thought about sumping it but what is it going to do to the small hermits I have in the sump or will they survive together??
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 9:25pm CDT by emteey
Hi,
What do you guys think of building your own DT? It doesn't look too difficult, by that I mean all the research I've done, the process looks the same.
I want to build a 1220(l) x 700(b) x 500(h) DT. I have looked at Hennie's glass calculator that suggests I should use 12mm for the sides & 15mm for the base. I get nervous thought thinking that silicone will hold all this together!!!
I would put two braces lengthwise along the bottom (1220 x 50) with four braces along the breadth of the bottom (600 x 50).
As for the top, I would put two braces right on top of the tank over the corners lengthwise (1220 x 60) and then again four braces joining the sides (650 x 50).
I am looking around to see if it is advisable to put corner braces on the tank, i.e. aluminium braces, to help reinforce the joins.
Views please ...
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 7:02pm CDT by Furbz
hi guys i have the following pitbikes for sale.
1x puzey MXR 125cc racing pitbike (racing Spec) R4600 (new it was R12000)
it has fully adjustable front and rear suspension
raised race handlebars
oil cooler
and a penta performance exhaust
1x bigboy CR 125cc pitbike R3500 ((new i think is R5950 now)
the bikes have been serviced at there designated services centres (puzey or bigboy)
and all are in showroom condition!
they still have the original stickers.
both bikes start on the first kick from cold.
run smoothly and just are a great fun toy for adults or a good learning bike for kids.
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 5:13pm CDT by emteey
Hi,
I have decided to start the reef I set out to do when I joined this forum. Due to unforeseen circumstances I had to put the idea on ice for a while.
Please give me your advice/suggestions on the following basic ideas:
DT: 1220 (L) x 700 (B) x 500 (Water height); is the 700 (B) too much???? and the 500 (Water height) not enough???
Sump: 1000 (L) x 500 (B) x 400 (Water height); is this big enough???
What return pump (brand & power) would you recommend?
What skimmer would best suit this size setup (approx 620l)?
What sort of stand should I construct? One similar to ScubsNinja? 38mm square tubing with loads of support braces?
Look forward to hearing from you ...
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 4:02pm CDT by George
For those of you who have been waiting or wanting to buy TUNZE equipment I would like to extend my apologies as the latest shipment was highjacked from the forwarding company on route to Durban.
George
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HI ALL,
WE HAVE LANDED AN AMAZING SELECTION OF CORALS;)
SUPER METALLIC BRAIN CORALS,WOOD POLYPS,RICORDIA
YUMA,ACANTHASTREA,SCOLYMIA,EUHPYLLIA CRISTATA,GLABARESCENS,ANCORA,OXYPORA,HELIOFUNGIA,
MERULINA AND MANY MORE, PLUS A SELECTION OF SOFT CORALS.
LARGE NASO TANGS @ R660.00
LONG SPINE CARDINALS @ R102.00
AQUAMEDIC 20KG SALT @ R690.00
PLEASE CALL AT OUR SHOP FOR ANY MARINE NEEDS.:thumbup:
CHEERS FOR NOW.
IDOL MARINE CREW.
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Obviously RO water + good quality salt seems like the best way to go to ensure consistent water quality. I used to get RO water from my local F&V but they have stopped the service so now need to drive 30mins to my nearest LFS.
I am a member of the Two Oceans Aquarium and also live 100m from the beach so have always considered the option of using NSW. Looking at various threads i can't seem to get handle on whether it is a good idea or not?
Some threads seem to indicate possible high phosphate levels for NSW (which won't help my GHA problem) and i couldn't get a definitive view on what happens if you keep NSW for a few weeks (makes sense to collect 100 litres at a time but i only use 25 litres every other week for my nano tank).
Any sage advice?
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 12:42pm CDT by Rossco
I,m about 3 months into the addiction.
and quite a bit poorer but do now have a 600L tank.
I,m looking for a good place to buy coral.
Also is it plundered or grown?
Cheers Rossco
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 12:38pm CDT by ziyaadb
Hi All
just wanted to say thanks to IDOL marine for sorting out my skimmer pump, took it in was checked, problem identified and i was requested to take it to Aquarium depot for them to sort out as Adrian explained the issue to them. Aquarium depot fixed it for me with no issues. Great service :thumbup:
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 11:45am CDT by deang
Hi lads,
Huge disaster struck this weekend.
Was away over the weekend, and my power tripped.....
Needless to say, arrived back, to find all but 5 of my fish dead (the alive ones were shivering).
My snails survived, so too did my one fire shrimp (one died), damsel, 2 clowns, guinea fowl wrasse and my Copperband.
My ananamae frecked.... initially couldn't find it, but thought it had disintergrated. Oh well it hadn't and last nigh, it floated (like jelly) to the top, got stuck in my overflow and stank.
What a mission to get it out - tank stinks.
Very happy my Copperband survived, but I did lose an Idol, Clown surgeon, dottybacks, gobies, keyhole butterfly fish, boxer shrimps)
The 5 fish were still alive as of this morning, but wondered whether my water had been poisoned and if it has, what do I do?
Help please.....
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 11:41am CDT by zayd
Hi Guys
I remember some of you from the other website. Been a while. Just don't have the time to update and visit 2 websites.
See link below for the tank that is now running for 3 years. It is about 350l.
The video is about 6 months old. I am in the process of building a 1.8m x 1m x 0.8m tank and will start a new thread for it.
05042008.flv video by zayd01 - Photobucket
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 11:20am CDT by vatso
Hi all
I saw some questions being asked about Ich & wanted to share what I am doing.
I am using my old 250lt tank as a QT tank, but first some history of how I got here.
My Main tank is 900lt in total & I had a Ich break out which I tried to dose with Bio-Elite heal all - this product does work in making the fish fight the Ich but does not kill the parasite! so the fish were alive but getting more & more spots.
I did a water change of 250lt & moved the old water into my QT tank with some live rock & ceramic ring filters which one can buy in a unit. this is to make sure I don't get ammonia.
I then added Seachem Cupramine I decided in this product as the copper does not go into the filter & can be removed with active carbon.
It's now been 4 day's since the fish have been in the QT tank with Cupramine & there are almost spot free this does not mean they are all better we still have 1.5 weeks to go / 14 day cycle.
I am still putting some heal all in my QT tank as it helps the fish heal where the spots were & is good if there is or was any secondary infection.
To check your ammonia levels one can't use standard test kits the copper messes with them - I am using seachem ammonia alert.
I suck the bottom once a day to remove none eaten food & anything else that might be at the bottom of the glass.
I will give some updates on how things go.
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Posted: May 5th, 2010, 10:36am CDT by Zuna
Hey guys
what is the difference between the Yellow sailfin tang (Philippines) and Yellow sailfin tang (Hawaii).
from my understanding the yellow tang comes from Hawaii
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 7:52am CDT by ml
HI all
Just woke up today and discovered my HAILEA HX6550 is not working,noting was working went to put on the power and still not working. :(
Opened the pump at the back and discovered it has been broken :( I could smell it burning from the electricity.
What to do now, my nice pump broke,I only have a broken shaft in my other pump (6000l/h) . A very sad day for me.
Can I send it back to Hailea for repairs or what ???
Morne
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 1:10am CDT by Achilles
For all those Apple IPhone users who love marine fish , i have a great app for you to check out
It is called Marine FISHMATES and it can be obtained from the Apple Itunes App store by clicking the banner in my signature, hope you enjoy it, i think it's a very useful tool for marine hobbyists
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 12:32am CDT by ronaldgv
I've has this colt for over a year, I've even fragged it. Recently it started to behave oddly, it is almost always retracted and pale. Today I noticed what appear to be miniature white snails on the coral. Could this be the cause? If so, does anyone know how to treat this pest?
Gracias!
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 9:59pm CDT by Mrabkin
Have just set up my +-200l tank, and built this sump to fit into the cabinet below... which is limited in space!
It is 650 long, 350 wide and only 170 deep.. As as said... limited cabinet space.
Would i be wasting time with a DSB?
I know the depth is ok, but the total surface area is concerning me. Perhaps removing my dividers is the only way- to make space for more sand..
Suggestions welcome...:P
Mike
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 6:14pm CDT by Slummies
Anyone in Cape Town, Durban or East London have Araganite sugarfine (or fiji pink) they wanna sell?
needing just under 20kgs.
Please let me know
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 3:34pm CDT by Boegie
I have a Finger Leather frag to swop for:
Cheato
DSB critters with
Fireworms
Gammarid Amphiphods
Nassarius Snails etc.
East London only.
Thanks
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 3:27pm CDT by Boegie
Well, I finished my sump upgrade this weekend and am happy to have a refugium and more total water volume.
I have collect and filled about 9 cm substrate from Black Rock, Gonubie and topped it with 1 cm very fine sea sand.
Today, I have studied the following thread:
[www.ronshimek.com]
The ideal size is 0.125
What is best:
Black Rock or sugar fine aragonite?
I did not see any worms in my old DSB after 7 months using Black Rock. Should I rather pay R400 for a bag of aragonite? I am not stingy, but why pay R400 when I can get it for free. BUT I WANT THE ABSOLUTELY BEST - PLEASE HELP
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im a more curious than cautious reefkeeper and i have been running my 1.2 for about a year nw and its looking great but i only recently decided to buy test kits for the first time! my calcium is at 550ppm, Mg is at 2010ppm lol, there is not cloudy water or calcium precipetating and everything is running fine and corals are happy and growing. But my question is, what is the worst thing that could happen?......
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 2:18pm CDT by Riddi
I have been contemplating which setup will be better.
will a seio controller and two pumps or a polario be sufficient to create enough flow in my cube setup.
the expected volume is 450 lts and I initailly plan to have FOWLR and later (8- 12 months) start with corals.
please advise or even some sugestions
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 1:52pm CDT by Drk
Hi Coming down this weekend to JHB east and PTA east.
Can anyone give/sell me some Cheato?
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hi Hennie.
my sump cracked last week friday:( my DSB has been running for eight months now and there is a lot of life in there.
so i had to remove my DSB from the sump wich cracked and i have put it in a blastic tub for the meantime untill my new sump is biult.i have a loaned sump for the meantime.but i dont see the point in adding the DSB to the loan sump and then taking the whole DSB out again in (hopefully) a month or two.
so what i wanto know is ,what would be the best way to try and keep all the life in there alive,including my macro algeas.i have the DSB lights over the tub.
ill post a pic to show you what i have done.
any advice would be appreciated:)
thanks.
this is what it will be in untill my new sump is built.
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Posted: May 4th, 2010, 8:42am CDT by ashley100
I have had a tank running for nine months, which has only one live rock which is
growing plants like, tube worm and some kind of red plants.
and now i am visiting the coast and am wondering is it cool to take stuff out the ocean thanks
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Is there anyone who has some Caulerpa they could part with for my reef system? I am on the east rand but don't mind taking a drive to fetch it, nice to meet new people and have chat about reef stuff :1:. Awesome to share ideas and maybe I can offer something in return - maybe give you something from my system which you may not have or would like which I have to offer.
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 10:13pm CDT by rudivh
Hi there
I bought T/Marine Triple-Buffer it put im my water, but theres no instructions on how much i must put in. Can anyone please help. My KH level is 6 and my PH is 8.2. Its a 120L tank.
Thank you
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Hi everyone its been a long time since I have posted anything.
I am looking to do a skimmer upgrade so I want to know from the guys in the know what brand is the best or should I say best value for money?
I am looking at a grotec hea-150 = 1000L
or one of the reef octopus's orca-135-int =750l
or you guys tell me
Thanks again everyone.
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 9:05pm CDT by Slummies
Yay or Nay?
im getting a 4ft and either going white aragonite or black. i dont have pictures to compare and the ones iv seen dont look t0 bad.
i want something different but natural!
what you guys think? post pics if you have any!
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evening all , been keeping lrg tropical tanks for a few years now .after a week at the coast snorkelling the bug must have bit.I must admit im totally clueless and am sure Ive allready made mistakes ,but thats how you learn so all the advice is wellcome.wanting to have something of the rock pool type setup but with your advise will get there.running 1 week .still no readings other than slight high ph 8.8 first 2 days .used ro water from kitchen (dam that took long)tank details
main display (my brakish tanks old sump)
60l X 30w X 30h water level 26cm
temp 26 salinaty 1025
crushed corall substrate
rock donated by freind at lfs
and old corall from my brakish ?
1 small 6500k light (all my existing lights are 4ft ) plan to get a small mh pendant if required
sump
48l X 23w X 30h
water level max 22cm
compartment 1 dsb 10 cm high 50%sand from lfs marine 50 % silica
compartment 2 2kg ceramic rings
compartment 3 dynamax xp30 skimmer & 2 100w heater
compartment 4boyo 2500 lph return .
inlets and outlets 25mm
from what I think I know its now just wait for cycles to run and be paitient ?
will post pic asap giving me invalid file msg ?
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my skimmer pump was making a racket and i couldnt figure it out! it was quiet when i saw it running before i bought it!
i decided to put one nylon 5mm washer under impeller on the ceramic axle and two on the top between the impeller blade and little rubber guide in front of pump. well well i stumbled onto theee noise cure and this thing is skimming like it has hoof and mouth (ts3 with otp 3000 with pin wheel) to the point where it squeezed skimmate bubbles up through the holes in top cover and it looked like a green capuchino! hope idea helps others with noise problems on pumps!
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 5:39pm CDT by GarethVH
Hi all.
I have been looking around for a few weeks now and have finally decided to introduce my self.
I don't have any Marine tank YET but I am hoping that will change soon...;)
I have a few Fresh water tank that I have been running for a few years now and I would love to add a Marine tank to my Hobby as well.
well that all said I am really looking forward to getting all the info and help from this forum. :thumbup:
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Hi everybody
My names Tyron just thought id join this amazing site to learn more.
Im currently restarting a marine setup, i had one before but had to sell it off when i moved house. This site is such a great source of infomation thanks to all of you!
Cheers
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 4:36pm CDT by rudivh
Om i know a skimmer is important in a tank, but what exactly does it take out of the water that is so important and what will happen if a skimmer dont work properly or break for a while?
How do you know the skimmer is doing what its supposed to?
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 4:20pm CDT by takumi
Hi there guys ...
I have a bit of an issue .. busy with a new tank so at this stage I am a bit low on cash needles to say ...
So i got this unit for a steal but it needs a a new bulb .... but the aquamedic bulb is so expensive - can anybody help with an alternative ???? i traced the general model for the bulbs ...
G11 55 Watt Compact UV Bulb
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OK here is the problem, i have a nice sump with space for a large DSB, only problem is the baffles are bit on the short side ie 16cm & 15cm. Dsb should be 15cm and have about 15cm of water flowing over it aswell. Instead of replacing the baffles i just want to run the sump on 1 water level, only down side i can see is the sensitivity of the ATO, anything else ?
Pic of actual sump
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 3:23pm CDT by neil.h
I've bought too little Aragamax and have tonnes of playpen sand available. Can I mix the two without any adverse effects? Must I layer it with the Aragonite on the bottom and playpen sand over that?
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 2:52pm CDT by Drk
I got a Lyretail Hogfish yesterday is it reef safe and what is his general behaviour?
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Hi All,
Jope you keeping well.
If you have any tank raised Angels, Tangs, Triggers & or puffers who have got to big for your tank or who are causing problems.
Please let me know as I am looking to buy these fish for my new system which is ready for stocking.
Thanks in advance.
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 2:24pm CDT by Neil H
Hi Hennie,
We often talk about a healthy DSB population, I am interested to know how we encourage this population, not so much interms of bacteria, but in terms of sand shifting creatures,
Are there things that we can buy, sand shifting stars, goby's, hermits, silver dollars?????? that would form part of a healthy DSB ?
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Here is a link relating to ATS. It answers so many questions, and explains nicely the advantages of ATS above other filtration methods etc.
Enjoy!!!
http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/...c.php?f=9&t=68
:thumbup:
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Hi guys
Spoke to Frans this morning, and I would like to get all your input too. I had a torch coral head go from 100% to gone within 24hrs max over the weekend. It was fine, then closed up and a had a brownish slime layer over it...
I rinsed it off under the flow, and could see the tentacles once more, but the slime was back within a few hours, and I pulled the plug on the head, and took it out the system.
Now, that sounds like brown slime disease right? But now, are my other corals in danger?
And how does it get there, and how does one fight it?
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 1:10pm CDT by B2048
Hi everyone
Would someone be able to PM me a list of trustworthy LFS's? The closer to Sandton the better.
thanks
:)
B.
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 11:01am CDT by rudivh
Is it normal for clowns to go a bit crazy when you put off the lights? I had the lights on last night but as soon as i switch it off the fish start swimming around like crazy and if i put it on again they are relaxed again. It was their first day in the tank, so i dont know if they must just get used to the environment first.....
Please advise.....
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 11:00am CDT by Ross
Hey Guys
Been trying to read through the threads but it is way to complicated for my brain at this time of the week.
I want to connect my tank to a UPS (Will connect the ProfiLux and one Plugbar to the UPS. The other plug bar that will run lights and heater will be to house power). I saw a 1000 something UPS at Incredible over the weekend. I will obviously have to work out what my return and other pumps use, but what is all this talk about modified sine waves and unmodified.
Also once I know the wattage for my needs, how to I convert that into the UPS power rating.
Thanks,
Ross
PS this will be used for short periods of time for when I am not home. I have a geni wired in so once I get a message that power is out, I or somebody else can head over and turn it on.
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 10:30am CDT by fly*
Hey Guys,
Can somebody please help me identify this colony that has just sprung up on my Live Rock?
My camera cant get in close enough so I had to use my camcorder instead. Its a very short clip though :) thanks
YouTube- What is this???
Its not aiptasia, i've had before and these are definately not them. When these retract, they retract into a tube rather than straight into the live rock like aiptasia does.
Any ideas?
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 10:17am CDT by chikaboo
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Posted: May 3rd, 2010, 8:13am CDT by neil.h
Am I being silly?
Sump is 90X42X42, currently the last baffle is only 15cm high. I know i'll get flow over the
DSB for the aerobic and anearobic bacteria. Surely one would want to have a defined amount of water flowing over the
DSB? Currently that level will change as evaporation occurs.
Somehow I'd feel more comfortable if the last baffle was about 25cm high, with the
dsb being aroung 12-15cm deep and water flow over the top being at least 10cm deep. Would also mean a refugium of sorts
Yay or nay?
Pic for reference
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Posted: May 2nd, 2010, 2:25am CDT by LikesFish
Berghia nudibranch?
Baby Turbo snail?
No idea what this is. Does not look like an isopod.
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I have hit a road of confusion and need input for those in the know...
I have just put my new DSB in place and it is on the road to becoming what it needs to over time, I have transferred my Chaeto over and got the reverse light doing it's thing.
Now here is the thing, would one put an ATS on the system too or would you just have Chaeto? Or just have the ATS without Chaeto?? The suggestion of information I have thus far is that they do very similar things for a DSB so my understanding is that having both is almost a futile excersize...
Both generate algae growth (Chaeto is algae after all) and both need to be harvested every so infrequently - are they the same thing or are the totally different things and having both is a good thing - or bad thing...I need someone to un-confuse me. I have the stuff to make the ATS but haven't because of the confusion right now.
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Posted: May 2nd, 2010, 10:18pm CDT by rudivh
Hi there.
So I did my first test today of the water, and just want to get some advice on how my levels are.
PH Level - 8.2
KH Alkalinity - 6dKH
Nitrat - <1mg/l
Nitrit - 0.02mg/l
Ammonium - 0.5 mg/l
According to the test everything is fine, im just worried about the ammonium level. The guy said i can put 2 clown fish in so long, so they are in will post some pic, and i also have a piece of coral in that i will post a pic of. Im not sure what kind of coral it is but the guy said it will be fine in a new tank before i get all the fancy corals.
The tank is new, only 3 weeks old so will keep everyone updated.
Thank you
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Posted: May 2nd, 2010, 7:26pm CDT by Mrabkin
So, i have looked and searched and pondered on how to decorate the up-and-coming tank...
Want to do somthing combining live, and fake rocks, minimalist approach... But the question is:
What materials are safe, or harmful to the tank?
I have made many fishponds with a "fake rock" appearance using cement and various PVA paints. Will this approach work for me? Or will it kill everything?
What about scaping with PU foam and chickenmesh and covering with cement?
Ideas appreciated!
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Posted: May 2nd, 2010, 4:46pm CDT by Dikdaan
Hi all, I have a pair of Clarkii Clownfish and need to still setup the second tank and decided to make it specifically for them. The idea of breeding with them is also there...
So what i would like to know is whats the needs and wants of these fish? From tank parameters, companions, corals, nennies etc.
Any advice or know how would be greatly appreciated!!!
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Posted: May 2nd, 2010, 2:25pm CDT by Schalkdk
Hi guys I just thought I'd share my new DIY Rock with you.
I got some shell grid from the west coast.
The Dry Mix less the salt, Add it at the very last.
Do not get it too wet.
I start with only the base of the bin covered with some sand; Make a couple of small bumps and holes, Get creative.
Now add Mix,
Then sand then Mix,
Then sand then Mix,
Then sand then Mix,
Then sand then Mix, then sand then Mix, You get where I'm going with this nê. Remember to ensure the Mix always stays connected at least 2cm to 3cm, you can go thinner but then it really gets fragile.
See the bin is getting filled up.
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Posted: May 2nd, 2010, 12:13pm CDT by ZaxXx
Hi all
:wave2:
Im making a new tank which is about 100x80x80h, how do i work out what pumps a good enough and should i use a syphon or an over flow system?
Will appreciat feedback
Thanks
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I was reading a thread about using skylights to light an aqaurium and was wondering if that isnt maybe the way to go with escom prices what they are. Any thoughts on how that would be feasable for a reef tank?:whistling:
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I was wondering if someone can help please. I have just purchased the Tropic Marin Phosphate kit and it has 3 droppers a,b and c. The directions in the book tells you to use 10 drops reagent a and then 3 drops reagent b but nowhere does it say anything about reagent c. Am I completely stupid?:1hissyfit:
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 6:45am CDT by badbiker
HI
Recently I Install sump in my 100g tank. but I didnt know what to put in the 4 compartments so what i did is that >> 1 (sponges)2(liverock+sand)3(liverock+sand)4(returnp ump+skimmer)
My Q is it ok or need to add some bio balls
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 8:37pm CDT by Annoying
Hey
I don't know if it's just me not finding it but there is no MASA history on this forum. Meaning by MASA history I mean how was MASA created and who did it and all those info some people are just curious about... If there is no Forum can one of the mods maybe create one... PLEEEEEEAAASE!!!!:razz: I'm just curious to find out...
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 4:35pm CDT by Mrabkin
Please would somebody advise me on the following situation:
I have built my 900l x 400w x 600h (8mm glass) tank, filled it up with no leaks, but noticed a little chip on the bottom glass.
The chip is not leaking water but my concern is obviously future structural integrity...
The tank from a distance...
The tank, closer...
close up of the chip... It is about the size of the little eraser on the back of a pencil...
Following is a photo for purposes of seeing the structural braces i have built..
Can anyone please inform me of what i've done wrong... was it a glass imperfection?
do i need to replace the base?
if i do, will it do the same?
Help please!!
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 1:46pm CDT by viper357
Video: Reef Tank DIY Sump Part 2
Category: General
Uploader: viper357
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by viper357
Part 2 of a video that shows how to build your own sump for a marine aquarium.
|
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 1:45pm CDT by viper357
Video: Reef Tank DIY Sump Part 1
Category: General
Uploader: viper357
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by viper357
Part 1 of a video showing you how you can build a sump for your marine aquarium including how to drill aquarium glass.
|
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 12:50pm CDT by Raven
Hi,
Some time ago - just after load shedding started - we bought a Juta W660 converter with a car battery.
It's rated for max 600W output.
Now - can I use this safely as a backup?
Can I for instance connect a charger to the battery, and the battery to the converter, and plug my 200 W Haila pump in?
So that the battery will be on charge when we have power, and the pumps will still work?
My knowledge around this is very limited, and is afraid that I'll blow something...
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 12:48pm CDT by viper357
Video: Protecting pumps in your display tank.
Category: General
Uploader: viper357
Quote:
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Originally Posted by viper357
Needed a shroud built for my Sure flow modded pumps after having an accident in one of my tanks.
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 12:44pm CDT by viper357
Video: Reef Tank Pump Maintenance
Category: General
Uploader: viper357
Quote:
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Originally Posted by viper357
Video showing how I do my pump maintenance. Keep them clean for maximum flow! (Vinegar is your friend :)
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 12:42pm CDT by viper357
Video: Corals at Low Tide Fiji
Category: Corals
Uploader: viper357
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Originally Posted by viper357
This video was shot outside of Lautoka, Viti Levu in the Fiji islands of the corals at low tide out of the water.
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terrible morning to be reporting this , but need some emergency advice please
thursday eve fed my fish and all were perfect ! eating like mad and all was normal .
friday , did a water test and kh was lowish at 6 , so it was buffered as well as the magnesium and the calcium !
i got home last night and a few fish seemed to be breathing heavy and were in trouble .
green chromis , have lost 4 out of the 9 and sad to report this a,m they are all gone .
have lost my wrasse and my yellow fin tang - least to say we are devastated and will kill me if i lose any more fish !
did a test last night and the kh was up to 10 . calcium - 400 and ph 7.8 ! salinity 1.025
COULD the increase in alkilinity in the 5 hours have caused this ?
water temp is as normal -25.5-26.5 all day and night
waiting for a friend now and we are doing a 400 litre water change as we are at a loss for words
any help or advise would be greatly appreciated
clint :(
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Posted: May 1st, 2010, 11:24am CDT by Tremayn
Hey guys, iv been reading for quite a while on masa :) and it really helped so now i think im ready to start with my tank :thumbup:..
i am in need of advice.. i wanted a 4ft tank but at the LFS they have a 3ft tank with overflow, stand and 2ft sump for marine and its R1800 and i can prob get a discount on that... only thing i dont like is that its a bit thin, like 34cm and i feel this will suck with the aquascapping.. then they can have a 4ft built for me for marine with a 3ft sump same as the 3ft tank for R3500 and the said they can give me a small discount on that... the 4ft is nice and big and is quite fat also :) .. but its almost double the price!! the 3ft tank they had for a while so i guess tats why its so much cheaper! both tanks have mirror strips at the top so i figured if i loose that on the 4ft it would be cheaper.. so what im asking is which is the better buy? i can afford either but is it really worth paying almost double? and i have space for either size..
2nd is that i dont have a RO filter but i have the normal single filter thing that has carbon etc.. Was wondering if i could set up the tank using filtered water and just like use a whole bottle of aquasafe to remove the heavy metals from the water until i get a RO filter? Was thinking that with regular water changes it would keep the water parameters in check?
Iv been asking around and guys who use normal tap water use alot of chemicals to treat the water but they say that regular water changes is the key..
Need help here guys.. i would like to start the tank up with filtered water with aqua safe etc and later get a RO filter, or am i just shooting myself in the foot? I think that it would b ok and i could get away with the filtered water at the beginning but i know its not a long term solution..
oh yes and im planning on keeping fish and some soft corals, the easy stuff to keep lol...