Reefkeeping South Africa » Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Chaeto Questions

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 11:35pm CDT by costa

Hi guys,

How should one position the chaeto in one's DSB?
Elevated above the substrate using eggcrate for e.g. or is it o.k. to leave it on
the surface.(Not to sure about this because I think it could become a detritus trap)

Could you also give me any other advice which would promote both chaeto growth
as well as animal growth which the chaeto supports?

Cheers,
Costa.

Greeting and questions

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 8:33pm CDT by cswhitehead

Hi everyone. Im new here. And new to marine aquariums. So i have a lot of questions. Hope you guys will be able to help me as i cant wait to get started. First il tell you what my end goal is. I want a natural looking good size marine tank with sump. I want to keep live rock coral and fish in the tank. I work shifts so only work 16days a month so i have a lot of time to put into this but i dont have that much money to put into it that being said i want to buy quality stuff 1st time around because i dont want to buy cheap equipment thats going to break and battle to do the job because then im going to end up spending more money buying quality equipment 2nd time around.
So questions
1. Im looking for a good book on marine aquariums any recommendations?
2. I want quite a big tank i have read that deeper tanks look more natural how deep should a tank be? What is a good size tank. Length height and width?
3. I want to build my own tank so what glass and thickness should i use?
4. What equipment will i need? Lighting, pumps, filter, skimmer, chiller ect. . . And the estimated price of each so i can budget for them and so that i know if im getting ripped off when i go to buy the items.
Thanks guys and sorry for a stupid questions i know that they have probably been answered before but i am using my phone to view the site so its a bit difficult to search through all the info.

Items for sale: Jhb - West Rand

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 8:04pm CDT by rakabos

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

Items for sale

Location:

Jhb - West Rand

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi guys

Got a few odds and ends to get rid of. Please have a look. Im pretty flexible on all the prices

1. Display tank. 1.5m X 0.45m X 0.45m with steel stand. Glass is 6mm - R400

2. Sump. 3FT - R300

3. Dual lighting ballast (GLO) 2x54W 1.2m or so R200

4. Globes for above ballast. 1 X Actinic 54W, 2x Aquablue 54W. R100 each (Giesemann)

5. Skimmer. Reeftek TS2 with OTP-2000 pump. R1200

6. Light pedestal. 1m or so. Can take 3 X 39W tubes. There is one white tube in, i guess its a 10k. R600

7. Crushed coralsand for use as substrate. R100 for 10kg, i have about 40kg or so

8. Metal Halides. 2 X 150W units. The one has a 10k bulb, the other a 15k bulb. R1000 each. W23cm X L14.5cm X H10cm

I live in Wilgeheuwel and this is collection only, unless you REALLY need it shipped which would be at your own cost then...

Notes:

-

Anemone fragging

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 7:40pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Hi, was wondering if fragging a nennie is a good idea(cutting across the oral disc ect.), my malu is is taking up half of my 1.2! Could it possibly just kill it? can you 'encourage' it to split?

Also what is the longest anyone has kept an anemone in captivity?:)

Thanks

400+g my uk tank

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 4:24pm CDT by vds

hi there im new to the forum so here is a fts of my system i have at my shop in the uk.

its a custom built deltec system . that has cost me more than i would have liked to spend . .

its still a ongoing project . this is not the most upto date shot but is from the last 5-6 month .

hope you enjoy .

any questions just ask :thumbup:

hi im new here . my marine tank in the uk

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 3:01pm CDT by vds

hi guys my name is marius . i now live in the uk and ive brought my passion of marine reef keeping with me .

ive been asked to post up some pics of my setup . its a touch over 400 gal.

give me a few mins and ill take some for you .

im not totally happy atm . but i dont think anyone is with there tanks:whistling:

How does a nennie multiply?

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 2:25pm CDT by Dikdaan

Hi all

I have a magnifica nennie, its bigger than a dinner plate at the moment and starting to get rather big for my setup... Feeding it every second day on different foods.

What i would like to know is how and when does a nennie split or become more?

Frag setup

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 1:59pm CDT by Wizard

Hey everyone. its been a long time..... more than a year since i last logged on. i never sold my tank, infact i started a frag project over a year ago. my interest in it has come in waves ( ie when i have had cash to blow ) i need to to get motivated again and thought that a few pics for you and some incouragement from you may get the ball roling again. mmmmmmmmmmmm lets see

i had just turned the lights on for these photos, i will be replacing all the bulbs with 14k 400s soon.

Idol marine and profilux

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 1:57pm CDT by Bob the (reef)builder

Hi All

Idol Marine will do a demonstration and question session
at our shop next Saturday at 12pm,7 August,on the new
Profilux 3.

We invite all Profilux owners and interested people to attend.

Some of the topics to be discussed:
1.Difference between P2 and P3.
2.Pump control.
3.Illumination LED lighting.
4.Temperature control.
5.Reactor control,dosing.
6.Some advanced programmable logic.
7.Web applications,3rd Party Applications.
8.New firmware,products,vortech controller.

Be cool and salty,
Look forward to seeing you all,
Cheers.
Idol Marine Crew.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: :thumbup:

MD pumps - IWAKI

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 1:46pm CDT by SchyffS

Hi Scott
Can you provide more detailed specifications on the magnetic drive pumps if you still stock them MD-3600 and MD-5160, power consumption, flow rate vs head loss etc
Also on the Water Blaster Extreme pumps, specifications.
Will you be selling direct to the members or must we get prices from our local LFS?

(FS) Waterblaster HY-7000W for sale: Fourways, JHB

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 10:35am CDT by mariusmeyer

Hardware for saleThread title:

(FS) Waterblaster HY-7000W

Location:

Fourways, JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Prefer collection, can deliver to PTA over weekends, Shipping at buyers expense (+- R150)

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Guys, I am selling my Reef Octopus Waterblaster HY-7000W. It is about 4 weeks old, used for 3 weeks by the previous owner and for about 20mins by me.

Yes, I only used for for 20 minutes. I wanted to use it as my return as well as to power the scrubber. It has a 32mm pipe on the outlet, I also include a reducer to normal 25mm (black fitting on right in first pic). The flow out of this pump is great. Reason I am selling, it was sort of an impulse buy and only realized after that my big lifetech pump could do the same job. I paid R2100 so that is what I am selling it for. New this pump is just over R3000.

Flow Chart

Notes:

Ideal pump to use to power multiple things (scrubber, return etc.). Can be used as internal or external. Power consumption is great at 88W. Does 7000LPH. Head height is 3.6m. Flowchart is attached.

This is a great price on a basically new pump.

R2100 in case you missed the price at the top.

Supplements

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 9:24am CDT by RocheH

Hi all, I have a 25L top-up tank with an aqua medic top up controller. Now the thing is can you mix all your supplements like magnesium, strontium........ All in the same top-up water R.O for your daily water evaporation.

protein skimmer trouble

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:23am CDT by Theo

hello everyone. i just stated my new 4ft tank with 3ft sump yesterday, and already have problems. I have a boyu DT series protein skimmer, and it is blowing a massive amount of air bubbles out wich my powerhead is pumping into my tank. PLEASE help me!!!!!!

Nennie splitting

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 7:03pm CDT by Annoying

Hey Brenda

Finally I got my Red base bubble tip anemone a few weeks ago. Everything is going great and last week I noticed something strange when I fed it. One half of the nenie closed and the other half remained open. the closing half was the one I was feeding. Then I noticed the second mouth on the nennie. Now I guess the nennie split in my tank and was confirmed today by a small nennie moving up from the mother nennie. Unfortunetley they look like one nennie because the tentacles still touch eachother, but when feeding you can clearly see the second nennie. Now the question... Is it possible that ther could be more then one splet because is eems that there a few more peaces of the nennie scting the same way as the new one did, and what would be the best feeding sugestion to keep the new nennie going strong.

Thank you very much
( will see if able to load pics tommorow, but having serious internet problems so don't even know if I'll be able to read the replies.)

newbie

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 6:37pm CDT by lieb

hi all

i have been keeping marines for 5 years now

but new to masa;)

Greetings!

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 6:36pm CDT by tatumskye

Hi, everyone I'm Graeme and I've recently set up my marine tank (sounds like an AA intro) I'll definately ask questions as I go, for now I have to wait a month or so for my tank to cycle, thank you.:thumbup:

Pros and Cons of CLS (Closed Loop Systems)

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 4:32pm CDT by RiaanP

My Primary water flow is a closed loop system. I already got my own personal reasons why I prever CLS over any internal pumps. So giving my opinions upfront will affect your comments.

But what do you guys prefer, and WHY. What advantages do CLS have, what is your opinions. Also what do you see as problems. Do not quote other websites. I want to hear your own reasoning.

mesh wheel mod

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 3:05pm CDT by SaltyReef

Hi All,

I understand quite a few people had done mesh mods to their skimmer impellers.

But, what I dont understand is how the pump can still draw as much as when it has a paddle wheel, excuse my ignorance, I understand the principle of breaking up the air into smaller bubbles but how does the pump pull water and air thrugh with mesh?

chiller question

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 2:25pm CDT by dropzone newbee

hey guys
since i put in my 400 w m.h i see im gonna have a problem with cooling my water come warmer weather ! i dont think the 2 fans are gonna be enough

if i look at a chiller !
can i put the chiller underneath the tank , next to the sump ? if so , how much space will i need ?? are there any parts of chiller that need to run outdoors ?
my system is + - 1500 litres , so not sure what size chiller i would need ?
what make should i be looking at ?

thanks in advance

clint

intro

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:23pm CDT by GAKIEM

Hi GUYS

Im keeping marine for 3 years .. 1ST time on a forum..

Need some assistance with a orca 130 external skimmer.

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:03pm CDT by Collie

Last night i arrived home to a skimmer that overfilled and flooded the floor.
My q is this, where must the waterlevel be in the skimmer?, in the main body or in the top section of the cup?
Does skimmers skim diff in day and night, i need to adjust the open and close valve often.

My feeding pump is rated 2000l/h and the skimmer runs on a octupus 3000.
It is for a 4ft tank.

Advice welcome

Welcome to Aquarium Depot

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:01pm CDT by viper357

Please welcome our new sponsor Aquarium Depot - major importers of marine goodies in South Africa.

Taken from their website...

Quote:

Aquarium Depot wholesales a wide range of imported aquarium products to retailers across South Africa. Marine hardware and related dry goods is our specialty with service and after-sales support being our top priority. We are the leading marine hardware distributor in the country and make great efforts to keep abreast developing trends in the hobby by doing research and attending trade shows so that we can offer new and exciting products.

Quote:

Here you'll find a range of products we import for wholesale to retailers across South Africa. We are also the local agents for the following brands:

Polario
REEFTEK
Reef Octopus
Rio
Saga
SEIO
VorTech
Hue-Mei

Welcome to the forum guys, nice to have you on board. :)

Corals Galore!

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 12:05pm CDT by dallasg

howdy all!

if you looking for some magnificent corals in the jhb area, come here, i went past today and WOW!
let me name a few
Fungia
Trachyphyllia
Caulastrea
Heliofungia
Euphyllia

and the most amazing Catalaphyllia jardinei , Elegance Coral, i have ever seen

Idol marine

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 11:59am CDT by Bob the (reef)builder

Hi All!

We got a nice Phillipine and Singapore shipment in today.

We recieved some purple tangs,sohal tang,clown trigger, copperbands and lots more

We are open tomorrow till 2pm, hope to see some new faces!

Thank you
IDOL MARINE crew.

Mantis shrimp

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 11:41am CDT by Evo R

Hey guys.

Anyone got a mantis that they want to flush?
I have a friend thats looking for one for a mantis only tank.

Or if you know of some one that has one, please pm me.

Thanks guys.

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/07/30/new'

new

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 10:39am CDT by clinton

hello im new to marine tanks , looking for someone in pe to contact for help ect. Ive got 2 fish only tanks and want to upgrade to coral tanks aswell.

Detailed form submitted: test user

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 10:38am CDT by test user

Detailed help requestAre you experiencing any problems in your tank?

Yes

Brief Description

Ignore this, it is a test thread for the new forum.

Tank size

1.2m x 45cm x 45cm

System Volume

280 litres

How long has your tank been running?

9 months

What livestock do you have?

crabs
worms

Water Parameters

Alkalinity (dkh): 9
Calcium: 380
Phosphate: don't test
Magnesium: 1380
pH: don't test
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
Ammonia:
Salinity:
Temperature:

What lighting is over the tank?

4 x 54w T5

Pumps and equipment

2 x 6000lph sun sun pumps

Maintenance

10% water change every month

Other info and photo's.

TEST THREAD

Note:

Boyu TL 550: Pretoria

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 9:37am CDT by rudivh

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

Boyu TL 550

Location:

Pretoria

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Notes:

I have a Boyu TL 550 system for sale. It is only about 5 months old. Live rock, test kits, blower pumps, everything included!

Brown Jelly & CAM Antibiotic

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 9:36am CDT by jrwdive

I've been battling a brown jelly infection in my Hammer Coral for the last ten days or so. The steps I took gradually got more and more extreme, but the only thing that seems to have worked is treatment with Chloramphenicol antibiotic.

When it appeared I first tried siphoning it off - slowed its progression.

Next step was fragging off the infected part. This was done twice and it reappeared each time after two days.

I then bought some Lugols Solution (Alpha Pharmacy sourced it for me.) A dip in seawater at 10 drops per liter after siphoning off the jelly again slowed the progress but did not stop it. By this time I had the coral in quarantine.

After an internet search I found something on treating RTN with Chloramphenicol (CAM.) http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog...an_040697.html

I did a second Lugols dip and dosed CAM at 20mg/liter. After the suggested two days the jelly had disappeared completely. Only clean tissue was visible. I then put the coral back in the main tank as my lighting is not good in the quarantine tank. The coral was fully extended within 20min.

Two days later I noticed a minute patch of jelly starting at the frag area again. The coral is back in the small tank and CAM has stopped the infection within a few hours. My worry is that I have started to breed a resistant strain of bacteria by not treating for long enough. This time the coral will stay for a while - I'm buying some nano lights to keep it happy.

My vet prescribed the CAM - only R2 for a 250mg capsule. I dissolved the powder in alcohol first as advised in the article.

Urgent help needed Boyu TL 550

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 9:26am CDT by rudivh

Good day

I want to know if anyone has good experience and success with a Boyu TL 550 tank?

I have one and am just having bad luck with it the last few weeks and all my fish is dying. I am wondering if it is worth while to go on with it.....

Thank you

Rudi

Finally! Choosing Substrate Article

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 11:08pm CDT by sihaya

This was in the June issue of FAMA. Now it's on WWM for free.

WWM Dig Cvr

Urgent help needed Moving Homes

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 11:05pm CDT by Rabbit

Hi Guys,

Not sure if this is the appropriate place to be asking, I bought a 120L nano tank with live rock and clown fish.

Whats the best thing to do while transporting the tank from point A to point B. I would like to keep the water thats in the tank (for its chemicals and minerals).

Has anyone done this before ?

Lightning unit

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 11:00pm CDT by wildbunny

Hi i understand there is memebers here that build light units to size order can sombod please direct me to someone that can quote me. my tank is 3meter long 600 wide and 800 deep

Thanks

:peroni:

Help

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 10:52pm CDT by Zoom

Hi There
I need some help ... I have done some reading up on green algae but you guys still use a llot of terminology that i do not understand.

My Tank has been running since November 2009 so that about 9 months.My tank is about 600 litres including my sump.

I have an RO Unit so i only use RO Water. I have a deep Sand bed in my sump with a skimmer ...

Lighting i have about six tubes two blue four white ....I asked my LFS to help me with the lights for coral....

I have a cleaner shrimp
A regal Tang
2 clowns
A blennie
1 Dwarf Angel
1 Fox Face
1 Damsel

All of a sudden this month i have this horrible green like agae growing. i had two turbo snails that died

I see some that some people recormend a Sea Hair.

How can i get the algae under control. Should I take out the rocks and scrub them won't this affect my whol ecko system

Please help
:(

Stand Design can glass overlap steel

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 8:42pm CDT by Tidy

Hi Guys

I want to build my 1st reef tank

I would like to know if one can overlap the glass over the steel

Tank base is to be 812 x 512

Note that i will build as Tank style B where the base is smaller and glass overlaps it.

Stand is 800 x 500 (25mm squ tube)

Total tank Size 832 x 532
Glass is 8mm Rimless
and 12mm for base is this ok ?

Tank will sit on a 16mm wood base

PS i was thinking of placing the overflow in the middle of the tank ?

Thanks

Our local Hermits

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 7:23pm CDT by Mrabkin

Hey Guys,

I collected some hermits today, and need to run by you whether or not they're all desirable.

2 x small white-looking guys
2 x reddish brown medium sized (R2 coin)
then there are 3 big (1' diameter) hairy dudes with one massive pincer.

They are all behaving themselves and cleaning up really nicely. The big dudes seem a bit grumpy and territorial with each-other which is normal hermit behavious i believe.

I have some SPS frags on order and collecting LR full of mushrooms this weekend.

Just need to check if they'll be ok with my new additions or will i have to move 'em to the sump/ocean?

Mike

Pictures of my tank

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 7:19pm CDT by Jinx

Cannon LED Pendent

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 6:10pm CDT by ziyaadb

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/07/23/c...tt-blue-white/

Awesome light Pity it would retail over here for over 5000 each. I would love to have 2 if i could afford it. No need for chiller plus they look awesome. Your takes?
__________________

Chaeto light cycle

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 5:27pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Sorry this may be a bit of a noob question but what is the best light cycle to have on chaeto in the sump? Reverse to DT or 24/7?

Plants need darkness to respire so.....:whistling:

Algae under rocks, explain that...

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 4:18pm CDT by RiaanP

I got a bit of a problem. I got green algae growing at the lower parts of my tank. Even under the rocks.

Phosphates are zero, all other parameters are zero. Everything else in tank is 100%. Except the Pincushion being killed by the phospate remover...

My new DSB and ATS

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 4:12pm CDT by Nico Kortenbout

Hi there. So after some excellent advice from the likes of crispin, tobes, sandlewood, monti and marco :thumbup:, I am planning to build a remote DSB and ATS. Here is the plan, for scrutiny by the gurus :)

I Plan to pump water from the sump to the DSB, collect the drain water from the DSB and let it run onto the ATS. From the ATS directly back to the sump for pumping to the DT.

Would it be better to run from the ATS directly to the DT?

The DSB:
I Plan to use a 1200lph pump to pump water from the sump (after the compartment with the skimmer) to the DSB. The DSB itself I have a medium size black plastic storage box with thick walls and fitted lid. I am going from 15mm outlet from the pump to 50mm PVC piping to reduce the presure and create a softer flow into the DSB. The sand bed I plan for will be about 35cm deep in a 40cm by 50 cm container. This will leave about 25cm clear above the sand. The inflow will be a 50mm Spreader pipe in a T shape. The outflow will be a 110mm to 50mm conversion pipe leading to a 50mm drainpipe for the outflow. I am not planning any illumination in the DSB.

The ATS:
This is where I will need the most help. I am planning to try and use a smaller tank, about 50x30x30cm. I will run a piece of 80% shadecloth at an angle (about 25 deg so as not too steep) in the tank. I plan to have the outflow from the DBS as the inflow for the ATS, Let the water run down the shadecloth and then drain out of the tank and back to the sump. I am hoping the water will flow through the shadecloth and hence the algae. I am planning on 2 100W powersaver lamps for lighting.

Here is a diagram of the planned ATS.

NP Reducing Rice Reactor (briopsis control?)

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 3:32pm CDT by Louis Scheepers

Hallo everyone

I have been struggling with a seriously bad briopsis algae problem for a year now. Believe me if I say that you have never seen anything like it before (I will upload photos later). My tank looks like one of those new Japanese style freshwater aquariums!

I have a diy coil denitrator for NO3 control and a Phosban 150 reactor for phosphate control. My readings are all 0, but it might be the briopsis using up all the nutrients. I have tried every possible remedy, but noting seems to work. The only solution that has worked for everyone is raising Magnesium, BUT Kent Tech Magnesium had to be used, with other types of magnesium it would be a hit and run. I raised my Magnesium with a diy solution, and it worked at first, but then the briopsis grew back. I bought Kent Tech, but it seems like the briopsis won’t absorb Magnesium anymore. It’s been growing like crazy but the Magnesium won’t drop anymore.

I wanted to convert to a ULNS for awhile, in the hope that it would mean the end of Bryopsis. When I read about the NP reducing pellets I knew that it was the answer. Then I found the following two threads on Reef Central:
[www.reefcentral.com] and
[www.reefcentral.com]

I decided that I am going to join the rice experiment. If you have any questions, you’ll be able to find the answers on those two threads. Here is the basic summary:

1. Rice is a solid carbon source and has delivered the same kind of results as the NP reducing pellets.
2. Rice will stay solid for at least a month (that is the longest the experiment has been running for).
3. ½ a cup will work for a 50-80 gallon tank.
4. White short grain rice seems to be the best (brown hasn’t been tested yet).
5. There are some vitamins and phosphate in rice, but if you rinse it properly it won’t be a problem. The amount is also so small that it shouldn’t be a problem; food contains more of the stuff.
6. I will run it in a reactor with a slight tumble.
7. Rice is super cheap (big plus for a student like myself).
8. This is still an experiment…

Because I increased my feeding schedule, my nitrate started going up. At the moment it is sitting at 2. I rinsed the rice till the water was clear, then I soaked it in RO for 24 hours, then rinsed again, and now it is going into a reactor.

I’m worried about my soft corals since I know they don’t like ULNS, but at the moment it is my only hope against the Briopsis. I know that a lot of people gave up their tanks, because of briopsis, I’m not going to be one of them.

Will keep you up to date.

clown

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 3:23pm CDT by callie

Hi every one. Hope you can help. I got 1 maroon clown in my tank, i bought myself Monday a true clown(smaller than the maroon clown). But now the maroon clown chase that clown around in tank. I tried to catch the maroon clown without any success. The true clown have already got some bite marks on its fins. What can i do

Fox Face

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 2:29pm CDT by vatso

Peeps my Fox Face is "changing" color the dark yellow is becoming light yellow & changes to dark over a few days?is it normal?

other then that its fine eating & the rest is normal.

Atman ph 2500 impellers

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 1:43pm CDT by SaltyReef

Does anyone know where I might get a new impeller for my Atman PH2500 pump,
I have a paddle wheel impeller on it and would like to upgrade to a mesh or needle wheel for better air flow

Atman ph 2500 impellers

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 1:40pm CDT by SaltyReef

Hi All,

I have a via Aqua skimmer with an Atman PH2500 pump on it. It has a paddle wheel impeller and I was wandering where I might be able to get a needle wheel or mesh wheel impeller for it?

Wanted glass info for diy

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 12:39pm CDT by Dikdaan

Hi people

My friend would like to build a tank in the near future but need some advice on glass price and thickness...

The tank will be 1200mm long, 600mm high and 600mm deep (If you have advice on better dimensions please tell me)

I need to know what thickness will be required for the glass and what would the glass cost me more or less. I would also like to know where i can get black silicone...

dv8's l8est

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 9:35am CDT by dv8

this will be my 3rd atempt at a total build. well perhaps you could call it a second build modification. well... lets get to the build. i want to tak my 2000x700x500 tank and make it a 1500x700x700. it will be going into a "hole in the wall" will post pics of the "hole" soon for better understanding. basicaly i will have a room 3m by 3m for all the plumbing, sumps, etc. etc. and the tank face outside the room.

so now for why i start the thread.. well i want to get as many ideas before i start as posible eg: making holes in the glass for external flow pumps and so on, not too keen on this plan as i suspect fish etc may go into the suction part, but they look realy awsome. so if you have sugestions pls let me know

my plans thus far to follow

Samsung Mini DV video camera

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 9:06am CDT by leslie hempel

Samsung mini DV digital camera (34 x optical zoom)
Accessories
Fire wire cable
TV output cable
Charger
3 x cassettes
Bag
Bracket to attach to a tripod. (no tripod)

R1650

Lightning strike Maroon clown

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:18am CDT by magman

Check this clown, from Papa New Guinie

cheap ro water

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 11:08pm CDT by ravi

hi all. i have a 4ft and i am just starting to build my first marine tank. i have a sump with return pump and skimmer. a DSB is also in my sump. i want to know the cheapest way to make RO water without the RO unit?? i will be filling the tank this weekend with NSW.

Good snail or Bad snail?!

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 9:24pm CDT by Mrabkin

Please would sombody fill me in on these snails i found in rockpools in Knysna. The opening is round, not oval, but still need to be sure.

Pics not great, I know, but i'm sure you get the idea.

Please also advise if one can introduce common limpets to the system and will they bring any benifits and/or damage.

Thanks a million

Water Turnover?

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 2:42pm CDT by Breakwall Diver

Hey All

Can anyone advise how many times my tank should be turning over? :confused1:

I've got a 4ftX2ftx2ft tank with a large sump, roughly 500 litres together.

I intend keeping corals and fish.

At the moment I'm running a Eheim 1250 & Rio powerhead (unknown size) for return and this seems to be a bit slow?

I intend getting a Ocean Runner 6500, do you think this would do the job?

Aqua Medic Ocean runner 6500?

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 2:32pm CDT by Breakwall Diver

Hey Guys

Can anyone tell me what they think of the Aqua Medic Ocean runner 6500?

I need to increase the flow in my tank and I'm looking at getting one for my sump to replace an Eheim 1250 & a Rio Power head.

They seem to be rather large in size and I want to know how noisy they are as I saw a YouTube clip and it seemed pretty loud.

:p

Thanks all.

Cube wanted

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 2:30pm CDT by flamming angel

Hey guys

Looking for a cube 600x600x650(h) or similar. Just the tank or if you have other options will consider those aswell.

Please let me know if you have any.

Thanks

noisy tank

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:57pm CDT by tatoolady

my tank is making a lot of noise from the lid but only when its closed.. does anyone no what this could be???? thanks.:(

Tank for sale for sale: CPT

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:47pm CDT by FransSny

Hardware for saleThread title:

Tank for sale

Location:

CPT

Shipping or Collection only:

Collect

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Tank for sale:

1000 L x 600 W x 650 mm H, 10 mm Glass, Eurobraced....will never crack / leak etc

R 700

Notes:

-

Boyu wavemaker wm2 reviews

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:17pm CDT by Slummies

Hey guys. i got my eyes on the above wavemaker. its quite a good price (r900) and i dig the controller that comes with it!

what are your thoughts? its for a 4ft lps system

Urgent help needed Flat Worms, Flat Worms and more Flat Worms!

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 11:32am CDT by clinton stanford

Hi guys.i have noticed a couple of Flat Worms on some of my corals.they are only on my Mushrooms and my Xenia.
i have heard of a Six line Wrasse, they say sometimes it works.are there any other ways of nuking them?

thanks.

Say hi to me :-)

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 10:26am CDT by Kershan

Hi friendly folk, :wave2:

Fishkeeping had always been an avid childhood hobby of mine...sometime between then and now I have been studying, job hopping and then getting married. Sadly I feel like my hobby was lost then. :(

Luckily my wife is also as intrigued as I am w.r.t. marine setups and marine ecology. :slayer:

This site was my greatest find in getting me to remember some aspects of my childhood days. All of my setups in the past have been freshwater ones...but now after regularly browsing this site I am keen to setup a nano marine tank for starters and then see how things progress from there.

I live up in Jhb, in Honeydew and am keen to meet a few people up here who are junior to intermediate marine tank owners. I'd like to chat to you guys to learn a few tricks of our passion before I even start looking to buy equipment etc.

Chat to you guys soon.

Big up to the Marine Aquariums SA forums :thumbup:

foxface behaviour !!!!

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 10:10am CDT by dropzone newbee

hey all
last few weeks noticed some odd behaviour from my foxface !!! seems to love to hang on/with my huge 'shroom !
it doesnt bother the 'shroom at all !!
doesnt pick !!
just hangs around and often lies on it at a 30 degree angle !!!
whatchya think ?

Bicarb and calcium dosage

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 9:36am CDT by SPOT A

Hi everyone,

What is the easiest way to measure how much bicarb and calcium to add to my tank? 500 l display and 150 l sump. I have been adding 2 teaspoons of Bicarb in the morning and 2 teaspoons of calcium at night. I am just scared of overdosing or under dosing. I am doing tests and it seems to be stable.

do i need more then one ballast for my 4 250watt lights?

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 3:12am CDT by manace555

i have 4 Metal Halide HIE 250 watt E40 3700 Kelvin lights would i be able to connect them up all to one 1kw ballast if so in series or parellel ?
or would i have to buy 4 individual 250 watt ballasts and connect them seperately
much appreciated
manace

isit good or bad?

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 2:17pm CDT by Garethmur

Howzit again,

gota ask once again.... is this good or bad to have, and what is it (a type of feather worm?)

AND HOW COOL IS THIS, CAUGHT IT EATING A BRINE SHRIMP!

Rarest most sought after fish!

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 1:50pm CDT by brentv

Hey Guys, What do you reckon is the rarest and/ or most sort after fishes we can catch in our sea! ...
Reading a few articles in here the Gem Tang and Tiger Angelfish are mentioned a lot!!! But What other Awesome fish out there would we like that can be collected???:whistling:

Need some advice on a new build :)

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 1:35pm CDT by flamming angel

Hey guys

I have decided to build a cube maybe 600mm*600mm*800mm(h). The reason for this size amongst other choices was because i can only cater for that size is in my little place. Also going to have a sump and was thinking about the lighting maybe MH.

Please advise me on the above. Am looking at keeping both fish and corals. Will keep away from the hardy stuff however dont want to limit my self in the future. So if i can accommodate for all types i will go that way.

Please please please ..advise me on anything that you think that will assist me.
Will really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

used 25L drums for sale

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 12:22pm CDT by teez

Hi all,

i have a few 25l transparent drums that i used when i moved my tank, i need the space in my garage so they are up for sale.

not sure what to sell them for, how bout 50 bucks each.

incredible ! john copps aquarium!

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 11:02am CDT by Achilles

It is absolutely amazing this aquarium , and he is a true fish fanatic:thumbup:

Copps' Acropora and Angelfish Dominated Reef Tank on Vimeo

Copps' Acropora and Angelfish Dominated Reef Tank on Vimeo

Pls. explain pump control

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 10:44am CDT by neo

Hi,
looking at doing some DIY automation.
Could someone pls explain how these pumps work where the flow is controlled between 0 and 100%.
Are these pumps DC pumps and then you just control the voltage to them ?

Urgent help needed My Torch Coral Seems to be dieing

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 10:41am CDT by nick_fraser

Hi All

My Torch Coral seems to be Dying. I have had it for about 8 months no problems. It has 4 heads and all had been extending fully and Tom Clown has been his best friend. about 2 months ago i added a Hammer Head Coral +- 30 CM away and from it and since about a month ago my Torch coral hasnt been extending fully. last night i noticed the one head has just disintegrated so that only the skeleton is left and another one heading the same way. the other 2 heads seem fine but are not extending. All my other Corals are fine. my water parameters are 100%. the only thing that is a little off is the water temp which is sitting at about 21 22.

Any Ideas what could be causing this? I have moved it closer to my lights and a higher flow area to see if this helps.

Resun wave maker waver-15000

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 9:25am CDT by vatso

Looking for one

Niger Trigger for sale: Cape Town

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 7:07am CDT by Trev

Fish for saleCommon Name:

Niger Trigger

Scientific Name:

Odonus niger

Size of fish

12-13 cm

How long have you had the fish?

+- 1 year

Is the fish eating?

yes not a fussy eater

Shipping or Collection only:

ether

Your location.

Cape Town

Price:

R300 excl shipping

Photo's:

Will take a pic in a few hours when the sun is out

Notes:

This Niger is super dooper healthy and doesnt touch corals at all. I cannot find any pics of him ( strange ) so will take one this morning whne the sun is out, you will not see a better looking niger than this his color is bursting and fins are all max size

Trev

Various corals for sale: East London

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 8:25pm CDT by koeks

Various corals for saleCommon Names:

shrooms, leathers, lps

Scientific Names:

-

Size of coral

medium

How long have you had the corals?

over a year

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Your location.

East London

Price:

Can be discussed

Photo's:

Hi guys need to sell off some of my coral, at the moment I am only able to sell locally so if you are interested please pm me here are a few older pics corals have grown alot since, and you are more than welcome to come past and havwe a look.
Cheers

Will post more pics if mods require but would rather prefer locals guys to come around and have a look cheers

Notes:

-

Breaking the rules

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 8:22pm CDT by Trev

This is a 1.1m tank and this is the way they do things overseas, what do you guys think about this ?

MH or T5

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 8:22pm CDT by Manic

Hey everyone,

So lately I've been mesmerized by the reef central forums. What I have found is that every nice sps tank always uses T5's and not metal halides. So finally after sleepless nights due to reading, I've decided to go T5. It offers so much more colour choices and according to most threads provides more growth and colour. Now the thing is how many should I go for? My tank is 900mm X 900mm X 600mm (High), so obviously I have to go for 39W T5's. My scaping is such that I don't have corals 100mm from the back and 100mm from the front, so I only need 700mm of effective lighting.

Nokia

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 7:50pm CDT by Furbz

hi guys,

had a mishap with my old phone breaking for no reason.
so i bought myself a blackberry and took the broken phone to vodacom.

vodacom swapped out my broken N82 for a brand new N85.
it is new and unused.
however vodacom just gave me the phone so no box.
it has all the protective cover stickers etc still on the phone.
i have the old box for my original phone with all its accessories (disks, earphones(unused) etc)

i have no use for this phone and from what i can tell the retail on the web for around R3500 or so.

if anyone is interested please make me an offer on the phone.
i am not expecting anything near its retail price.
but i am open to any reasonable offers.

Keith

Dallas' TL-550

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 5:53pm CDT by dallasg

oki dokes, well i have had this nano running for a few months, at my folks place so when i visit i have fish to look at.

I have modded it some what and will take some pics this eve.

I have added an extra 2 lights, in the aim of trying some more harder to keep corals.
I have 3 x 24PCL globes and 2 x 10w T8. 2 of the 24 are the 10k/actinic mix, i have one 6500k for growth and both T8's are coral blue.

I am in the process of making a skimmer for it, will start a thread on that shortly.
In the first chamber i will have the skimmer and filter floss, both checked every second day. the 2nd chamber has 1kg carbon, 1L NP pellets, one bag purigen.

the third chamber i am making a refugium for cheato and some LR, and 12cm dsb :)

the last chamber will have 1L zeovit media and 1kg zeolites. there are 2 return pumps, one to the DT and the other back to chamber 2.

inside the i have 2 x sunsun pumps, one 8000L and the other 3000L.

there is 20kg of LR inside and arogonite substrate.

more on this later

One Pet Shop in Cape Town I have to visit

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 5:06pm CDT by hypn

Hi Guys,

Last few days for me in Cape Town. I have however had dismall success when it comes to marine shops with the three I visited, being either badly stocked, small variety or the last one not stocked at all. (waiting for citis).

If there was one Marine dealer I should visit before I go, who would it be ?

street address would be appreciated, ;)

Will this Work

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 4:25pm CDT by Junz

Hi Gents,

I need some advice ,

can i build the following size tank ( rimless ) using 4mm glass,

350 H
450 L
450 W

I will brace the tank on the sides and bottom as much as possible, im building this tank for a friend ans want to make sure it will not break a few months down the line.

Please let me know your thoughts

MASA Jhb Reef Club meeting : Aug

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 4:19pm CDT by dallasg

Oki, the MASA jhb club will be looking at having a meeting in Aug, any dates and venues?

yes it would be better at a reefer's place, but if we dont have a volunteer, we can always meet somewhere to discuss reefing

put your thoughts here

Stowaway in my Live Rock

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 3:43pm CDT by MichaelMD

Hey guy's, I am still new and recently aquired a piece of live rock which had a small fish living in it. I am trying to figure out what he is. He is doing fine and is healthy. I got the rock to help cycle my tank, the tank had already been running for a month and I decided not to put fish for another month, is he safe?

pollution on the natal coast

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 11:21am CDT by SaltyReef

The Durban Metropolitan Area's (DMA) coastline is heavily modified by urban development which has destroyed much of the primary dune habitat. It does, however, host numerous tropical and sub-tropical animals and plants, many of which occur only in this area. Most fish and invertebrate species targeted by recreational and commercial fishers are either fully exploited or over-exploited. In particular, several species of reef fishes e.g. seventy four and red steenbras are now endangered. Water quality along the DMA's coast is generally good except for areas around the Umlass and Reunion canals. Plastic pollution remains a problem along the entire coast.
1) Coastline
The Durban Metropolitan Area has 83 km of coastline bordering the Indian Ocean The coastline comprises both sandy and rocky shores. This coastline is punctuated by 13 estuaries as well as the port of Durban into which several canalized rivers flow. Urban development extends into much of the DMA's coastline, with housing being located close to the sea along almost the entire coastline. Much of the primary dune habitat has been destroyed by this development. In some cases this has impacted on the profile of beaches.
2) Marine resources
</B>The warm coastal waters of Durban (19-26 oC) are strongly influenced by the southward-flowing Agulhas current. This has resulted in Durban's coastline hosting numerous tropical and sub-tropical animals and plants. Most of the marine biota is of Indo-Pacific origin. There is also a high percentage of species which only occur in the area (endemic). Most of the fish and invertebrate species targeted by recreational and commercial fishers are either fully exploited or over-exploited.
Invertebrates
The DMA's rocky shores are inhabited by species such as mussels, oysters, octopus, crayfish and crabs. Between the rocky outcrops there are sandy beaches where species such as mole crabs and ghost crabs are found. The principal invertebrate species collected are crayfish, mussels, oysters, red bait, prawns and sea lice. Their status is generally fair to good. This is because of regulations which have been applied to their harvesting.
There are approximately 125 sand prawns/m2 on some of the sand banks in the Durban harbour, and red bait densities on some intertidal and subtidal reefs along the KwaZulu-Natal coast may exceed 2 kg wet flesh/m2(Tomalin, 1995, 1996 & Fielding, 1992). Crayfish densities on reefs between Richards Bay and Port Edward are in the region of 7 crayfish per 100 m2 of reef (Fielding, 1997).
Mussel stocks have declined somewhat since the 1970s because large-scale stripping of the rocky shore has resulted in major declines in recruitment of juvenile mussels. Despite this decline, mussels and most of the other species collected by recreational harvesters are still readily available along the DMA's coastline. Mussel cover is patchy, but in heavily harvested areas such as that between Umhlanga and Mdloti, there is about 40% mussel cover in the lower intertidal rocky shore.
Fish
Below the DMA's tidal zone there are sandy expanses that are interspersed with reefs where a high diversity of marine fish species occur. In the past, reef fishes such as the seventy four, poenskop and red steenbras made up 60-80% of the catch by weight. Today, these species make up less than 1% of the catch. Seventy four are now specially protected, and poenskop and red steenbras are both on the critical list (Marine Living Resources Act 18 of 1998).
In the 1970s, the shad (or elf as it is known in the Cape) fishery experienced a serious decline in catch rates and total catches. Subsequent legislation has resulted in a stabilisation of this fishery and it is currently sustainably harvested. The status of pelagic game fishes such as king mackerel and queen mackerel is generally good, but the management of these resources is complicated because the fish migrate over long distances and the stocks are shared with neighbouring Mozambique.
Mammals and seabirds
Marine mammals such as dolphins and whales, and a variety of seabirds, are also regularly sighted along the DMA coast. The presence of dolphins along Durban's coast is a marketable tourist attraction and companies now offer tours for people wanting to view marine mammals in their natural environment.
3) Water quality
The quality of water along Durban's coast is generally good except for areas around the Umlaas and Reunion canals. During the summer, heavy rainfall washes large quantities of soil into the rivers which is carried out to sea discolouring seawater close to the coast. Plastic pollution remains a problem along the entire coast.
Because of the mixing and dispersion resulting from the Agulhas current, inshore currents and wave action, the impact of effluent disposal into the marine environment along the Metropolitan coastline has been limited.
Industrial outfalls
Offshore water sampling in the vicinity of the industrial outfalls indicates that the effluent is sufficiently diluted to be non-hazardous. The concentration of mercury in water samples collected close to the AECI pipeline have on occasions been above the maximum accepted level (0.3 mg/l), but sediment mercury levels in the region of the outfall are low and do not appear to be increasing. The effluent occasionally discolours the sea in the vicinity of the outfall, but is otherwise relatively benign.
The effluent from the SA Tioxide pipeline is extremely acidic and the ferrous sulphate component flocculates on contact with sea water. This has, in the past, resulted in stained sediments and impoverished benthic communities within a radius of 750 m of the outfall. Trace metal concentrations in the sediment are within acceptable limits. Surface discoloration is also present on occasion.
The SAPPI-SAICCOR pipeline is probably the most controversial of the marine outfalls affecting the DMA marine environment. The effluent is buoyant and frequently discolors the sea. It has little adverse effect on benthic fauna except for a possible mild organic enrichment of the sediment close to the outfall. The discharge is, however, close to Aliwal Shoal which is an important focus for SCUBA divers, commercial and recreational fishers and spearfishers. They believe the discoloration is harmful to the Aliwal Shoal environment. In addition, algal blooms associated with persistent foam in the surf occurs on beaches both north and south of Umkomaas.
Sewage outfalls
The main sewage and domestic effluent outfalls in the DMA appear to have little negative impact on water quality. Continuous monitoring has shown that the environment around the outfalls is satisfactory. There is no build-up of sewage organisms in the sediment stations closest to the outfalls, trace metal concentrations are low, rich and diverse benthic communities are present close to the outfalls and the effluent falls within the accepted toxicity range (CSIR, 1999). Two stations near the southern outfall had impoverished benthic communities in the middle 1990s, but this was not considered significant. Elevated levels of trace metals (copper, lead and zinc) have been found in sediments at one monitoring station near the southern outfall, but generally levels are low. Trace metals in beach sediments, and mussel and oyster flesh from the shore adjacent to the pipelines, are generally low. In the area of the Umlaas and Reunion canals there are slightly elevated levels of mercury, chrome, copper and lead.
Annual mean heavy metal concentrations in the effluent of the Southern outfall
(From CSIR, 1999)

An historical record of surf zone pollution along the coast between the Umgeni and Isipingo Rivers is shown in this figure . The horizontal axis shows the stations approximately distanced and the vertical axis shows years. Red shaded Class IV areas are heavily polluted, while lightly shaded blue areas indicated as Class I are not seriously affected. The level of pollution is determined from the sum of a number of indicator tests such as levels of E. coli, Salmonellae, Shigellae, Staphylocci and parasites. Clearly, there was a major reduction in inshore levels of pollution after the commissioning of the offshore pipelines in 1968 and 1969. Today, water quality along the coast is generally very good except for the areas around the Mlaas and Reunion canals.

Maintained by Metropolitan Durban
Page editor: WebmasterLast update: October 1999

Heater strength

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 11:06am CDT by rakabos

Hi guys

So i went to the local shop the weekend to get all the equipment need for a 270L with 3ft sump...

I told him to give me two heaters for the sump and one additional to warm up the mixed RO water for water changes.

He insisted on 3x100W(2 for the sump and one spare for the water changes) heaters... Is this strong enough or should i get something else?

Cheers

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/07/26/UPS'

UPS

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 9:29am CDT by rakabos

Hi all

I was trying to figure out if a normal PC-type UPS will be whats needed for a marine aquarium?

Any advice? I have no clue about inverters and all that and just looking for something to keep the heaters in the tank on in case of a power outage...

Thx

Dumb Ass Move of the Weekend

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 9:26am CDT by AfricaOffroad

So, I'm doing a water change yesterday.

Doing my salt mix in an open top 210L plastic drum. Some adjustment and I get the salinity just right - 1.024. I'm using a big circulation pump to mix the water comprising a 50mm flexible suction line and a 25mm hose pipe for the return. Pump sits on the ground ( a SS Lowara unit, pumps around 12 000L per hour, with a head rating of around 40m, one of those small industrial type pumps), both hoses in the drum.

So with a properly mixed drum (around 180L), I turn the pump off and go inside to take the old water out the DT. 9x20L buckets later, I'm ready to insert the good water. Go outside, and WTF :(, someone has stolen my water. Bewildered, I look around and see a wet trail where salt water has drained off into my garden:nono:.

The damn return hose has fallen out the drum, the suction pipe still inside. The hoses have siphoned the drum empty. Much cursing and swearing ensued !!!
For the record, no :peroni::peroni::peroni: had been consumed at this stage.

150L of good premix gone (R100+).

Anyway, I painstakingly mixed up another batch and finished the water change.Then I cracked a good few beers :1:.
Still got a bloody headache this morning ...

ID needed

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 8:35am CDT by Francois

Hey Guys

What is this? It looks like a feather duster worm.

Id needed please

Posted: July 25th, 2010, 9:12pm CDT by vatso

What is this?

Angel not eating

Posted: July 25th, 2010, 9:03pm CDT by Undergravel

Hi.I was given a small Blue Lipped flag fin angel.Holocanthus Trimaculatus I believe.The shop I got him from said if I can get him to feed and survive I can pay.He is fairly alert,not yet skinny and emaciated.He didn't get bullied in my tank apart from some side swipes from my flame angel.The only symptom of something wrong apart from not eating is he hans in one corner all day.Any advise on what could be wrong or what may tempt it to feed?I thought he may feel better in a more natural system.Perhaps he was handle badly and never recover.

Hammer corals, come and post'em

Posted: July 25th, 2010, 7:55pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Can everyone please show off their hammer coral :thumbup:

Is there such a thing as too much flow?

Posted: July 25th, 2010, 7:25pm CDT by ThaneF

Ok, I have a Red Sea Max 103d tank (supposed to be 130 Liters) and it has 2x 550L "return" pumps. So that's a total of 1100L per hour.
I have been looking at the flow and I would like to add another power head into the tank, would a 1000L per hour power head b e too much (so that'll be a total of 2000L per hour in a 130L tank).
I don't want to have any of my future fish doing tumble turns around the tank :rofl: or not been able to keep corals because I have too much flow. I want to put a wave deflector onto it so the current will be changing all the time and there will be loss bue to the device. Any comments are welcome.
Thanks
Regards
Thane

Moving open brain coral

Posted: July 25th, 2010, 1:27pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Hi all, does anyone have any tips on moving an open brain coral? im trying to move him without touching any of the lobes but it is very difficult, does it damage the coral if i pick him up by the lobes? afraid the skeleton might puncture the soft tissue :(

Hello from Swakopmund

Posted: July 25th, 2010, 1:01pm CDT by Q89

Hello everyone!!

I just started with marine. I have a 40L aquarium with one Yellow Watchman Goby and one Blue Hermit Crab and a few pieces of LR.

Week and going well?

Posted: July 25th, 2010, 9:46am CDT by ThaneF

Ok, so my first week of watching the tank is done, got loads of these flea looking things all over the rock, some macro looking algea and I think I have got all of the aptasia :thumbup: but still on the look out for them. This morning I had this funny flat worm looking thing (i'll attch a bad pic of it at the end of my post).
Tested my water this morning and here are the results:
PH: 8.2
Ammonia: 0
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0.1 - a little high :(
SG: 1.027 - too high? :nono:? - must I lower or or is it ok?
Thanks in advance for your advice
And here is the worm thing:

need advise

Posted: July 24th, 2010, 6:41am CDT by old1

folks in your experiance which corals need the least light?setting up a new natural 75 gallon reeftank.ran the last one on three powerheads,one heater and a light.ran it for 17 yrs so i know it works but i got sick,live alone and when i got back in 11 months--dry tank.left everthing in old place,starting anew.first as a reef then turn it into a vivarium.can really use nthe help.

Thinking about a reef set-up; NEED HELP/INFO

Posted: July 24th, 2010, 12:36am CDT by ijssoccerfreak

Hi All!

I've had a fish only tank for a while, containing a few fish, and keeping them happy and healthy. I think i'm ready for the next step (as in a reef) but i'm not sure what steps i should take to be successful. I'm pretty sure i will need new lighting, for i only have (i believe) a T8 twin bulb set up. I also have a fluval 205 canister filter. Any information would be great! Very excited!:)

Urgent help needed Help needed with temp holding tank

Posted: July 24th, 2010, 11:27pm CDT by Trev

Guys I am needing some help, I am looking to borrow a 1m or preferably a 1.2m tank as a holding tank only for about 5 days from the 6-7 to the 11 - 12 August. Thanks

Trev

H Magnifica Advice

Posted: July 24th, 2010, 5:07pm CDT by gMAN

Hi all,
After my last experience with nennies, I need advise on one that I found(not purchased yet). Am told it's a magnifica? Can anyone pls advise on it's color (tentacle), looks bleached but was told that's it's color? :P

RO water versus water in garden pond

Posted: July 24th, 2010, 4:25pm CDT by greenie

Hope someone can advise on this - I noted that the water in my garden pond (holding 5 goldfish) test 0 ppm for both Nitrite and Nitrate. Was now thinking - can this water replace the RO water I buy for my marine tank? (after red sea salt has been mixed into it).

Just to add - I only top up the water in the garden pond, which is crystal clear.

relocating

Posted: July 24th, 2010, 3:41pm CDT by nathen

hey guys need some help , have a 8 month old tank 1500.600.600mm with fish and few soft corals , howeva i've been relocated to cape town , currently staying in jozi and need to know is their anyone that specializes in relocating one's marine tank fish and all . thanx guys all help welcome

My Skimmer idea... What do you think?

Posted: July 24th, 2010, 12:47pm CDT by Mrabkin

Soooo, After having bought a redsea Prizm skimmer and being very disappointed (despite finding it at next-to-nothing price), I have been pondering on a DIY skimmer design that anyone can build... A few days pondering and i have a rough design i need to run by all you Skimmer guru's out there... Feedback welcomed!! [url=http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=28281]

Think it will work??

hi folks

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 6:08am CDT by old1

im new at this site.i have kept fish 60 yrs reefs 17.looking for fish that primarally east micro alges,but refrain from eating macro alges.any suggestions?

PVC plumbing

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 12:09am CDT by deadmeat2016

I want to plumb my sump return pump with PVC as it looks all pro and is more fail safe but i have absolutely no idea where to start :( What do you glue the pipes with? what pipes to use? what NOT to do? and where to get? LFS or builders warehouse ect?
Thanks ppl

White Flat Bristleworm?

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 11:17pm CDT by AfricaOffroad

Big hairy flat looking brissleworm, plain white in colour.
Its probably the biggest living organism in my tank at the moment. :PAround 10-15 cm long, maybe 10mm wide.

Must say, dont really like the look of it:nono:
Anyone got any experience with them?
Good or bad?

When you shine a light on it, it moves pretty quickly, disappearing into a crack, crevice, hole in the live rock. Dont think I'll get a pic of it.

Anyway, I've baited a pest trap with a piece of mussel. We will see if anything is in the box in the morning.

New CPT Member

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 10:30pm CDT by lcornelius

Hi all,

I have been a member / forum lurker for the last year and a half.
My apologies for only introducing myself now.

Im a network engineer from Durbanville Cape Town. I fell in love with the ocean from a very young age. I almost drowned in the ocean as a 6 year old, but that did not change my views. I grew up surfing and diving and still enjoy visiting the 2 oceans aquarium ;)

I have one other expensive hobby, I play and collect guitars. So my wife suggested I start a marine tank as a hobby (I think to get me away from guitaring and metal). :thumbup:

I used to keep tropical fish, but as a teenager guitar rocking was way cooler than fish :yeahdude:

So I found the forum a year and a half ago and never stopped coming back!
Without asking a single question I have learnt so much, so a big thank you to all the regular members for their posts!

Ok, so this is what I want to accomplish: have 3 different tanks in my house. I know I know, baby steps. This is a big project and one that needs time, allot of time! I understand that this is an expensive hobby and Im prepared for the challenges and effort required. I have never started anything in my life without finishing it.

I would like to start out with a 1000 to 1500 liter display tank. I have learnt from the forum that bigger is better. This tank needs to be the main display tank, with corrals and lots and lots of nemos and dories. Im a huge clownfish fan. :)

Once I have that experience (2 to 5 years) I would love to keep Lionfish in one tank and seahorses in another. I know, big dreams.

My plan is to start with the main tank in January 2011. This should leave me with enough time for planning and saving up for the tank. Im planning to visit Dorry Pets in CPT in the next 3 weeks and introduce myself to Frans.

Cheers,
Lean

Nano or custom tank?

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 10:17pm CDT by erongre

:wave2:

Hi, I just joined marineaquariumsa, and I'd like some advice from other marine aquarists with nano tanks please:

I am moving to a new house and have limited space for my current setup (3ft tank with chiller and canister filter). I am now considering selling up and instead getting a nano tank:
1. Does anyone have any recommendations?
2. I'm a little concerned that this will be too small for my regal tang. I only have the tang and a clownfish, and would like to get another clownfish later as the previous one met an unfortunate end while being looked after by someone. I am very reluctant to sell/donate the tang as it is 'part of the furniture' (about 6 years old).
3. I also dont have a clue how I would link the nano to the canister and filter or if it would be necessary.

My other option is to build another tank with larger volume to fit into the area I have (total tank size about 85cm * 60cm * 50cm ) - but am a little afraid I dont succeed...

I'd appreciate any advice/suggestions.

Urgent help needed My humble SOS.... gogo's everywhere!!

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 7:22pm CDT by Mrabkin

Hey guys,

I've recently returned from a 6-week trip including business, funerals, 3000kms and so on... now i have a stack of issues!!!

Having only had my system running 6 weeks before i left, I decided to borrow 2 baby mullet from the lagoon in order to get things stabilizing whilst i was away. At that point the nitrites/nitrates had stabilized and things were generally ok (that is, for such an immature system).

I spent hours before i left, setting up daily fish-meals into ice-trays and training the domestic to top-up the levels (evaporating around 6l a day... stoopid MH lamps).

I returned home to find (understandably) loads of GHA and pea-soup-like water.... only 1 mullet> the other did a Houdini on me!

Still not my problem...

I did a massive water change, altered my lighting cycle, and cleaned up as much algae as i could, things started to look ok again. I also installed a redsea Prizm skimmer... not the best, i know, but i picked it up at next to nothing.

Problem number1: The skimmer PUMPED out skimmate for the first week or so, but now nothing... i mean NADA! The foam doesn't even build up, bubbles seem to just pop as they break the surface. I have heard of "clean tanks" but to me, this is impossible..

Problem number 2: The skimmer pumps back so many micro-bubbles that i decided to rather turn it off for a few days (also to investigate prob 1 above).. My findings were incredible... The bubbles in my DT did stop, only to bring my attention to the MILLIONS of tiny (and i mean sharp point of a pin tiny) little organisms darting around my tank!

I have seen many pods around the tank, all 1-4mm in size, and i smile and wave at these little guys, i know them very well. These tiny ones, in my mind cant be good. just above my DSB (in the DT) they flock onto the glass by the 1000's. At the same time i notice a red spot on Mr Mullet's belly, and it looks like a scale "missing" from his back.. Are these little things harming Mr Mullet? How do i get rid of them?

Below shows both the density of the organisms in the tank... And the injury to my fish. Please advise!!

Water chem as follows:

no3: <10ppm
no2: <0.2ppm
kh: 220
ph: 8.2

Please assist where you can, apologies for the long, drawn-out saga!!

Mike

Ozone

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 4:56pm CDT by Breakwall Diver

Does anyone have experience using ozone?

Can I use ozone without a controller to monitor the ORP?

Someone said I can just monitor the water clarity.:032:

Living in London

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 4:52pm CDT by Breakwall Diver

Hey all,

I'm currently in London and returning to SA in Feb.

The only good thing in London is that Fish & Equipment are cheap.

Will be doing some serious diving on my return.:razz:

1000 L Water Bins for sale: JHB

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 4:22pm CDT by SCOOBY

Hardware for saleThread title:

1000 L Water Bins

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Got 2 1000l Water Bins for sale.Want R 850 each

Notes:

-

Corral Chips

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 4:11pm CDT by ighsaan

Hi All
My name is Ighsaan I just one to now were I can by some corral chips for a good price I had a marine tank and I am starting over and going bigger.

Fruit loop zoas

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 4:01pm CDT by JAJA

Anyone ever come across these is SA?

Vodka dosing article - interesting read

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 1:40pm CDT by SaltyReef

Vodka Dosing...Distilled!
A Powerful Method for the Reduction of
Nitrates and Phosphates within the Reef Aquaria
by Nathaniel A. Walton (Genetics) and Matt Bjornson (Stony_Corals)The following information is provided for your consideration in regard to a topic that has been questioned by some of the best minds in the hobby. The goal of this column is to compact many threads interested in a particular discussion to a user friendly layout. The information contained in these articles is here to help educate and hopefully enhance the hobby, while helping you to make informed decisions on aquaria upkeep. The author(s) assumes no responsibility for any consequences that may arise from the use of this information.

Introduction
While the concept of using an organic carbon source to reduce nutrients is not new to the hobby, it has recently gained considerable popularity. The number of carbon-source dosing threads on Reef Central (RC) currently reinforces this statement. These threads range in dosing of a single carbon source: vodka, sugar, or vinegar, to the combination of these three. Notably, the first major thread on RC for this subject was quite lengthy starting a couple of years ago ("Dosing vodka to bring down N and P"). This thread highlights the results of many aquarists that were achieved through careful vodka additions to their aquariums. Users note a dramatic decrease in nitrate and phosphate molecules, while others note increased coral coloration and clearer water. In this article we will discuss these potential benefits and give instruction on vodka additions while condensing the many threads on this subject into a more easily readable format.
Before starting, as with any project, there is a great deal of information that needs to be taken in and understood. While reading this if there is any question that is left unanswered please ask either someone on RC or in your local reef club. We ask that you read and ask questions until you have a firm understanding of the concepts behind vodka dosing. There are no dumb questions! And remember as with all good things it takes time, effort, and understanding to do a task properly.

What is an Organic Carbon-Source?
Carbon is the fourth most common element in the universe. It is unusual in nature as it has the ability to self-polymerize forming long chains. Carbon�s abundance combined with its ability to form a wide range of polymeric structures allows this molecule to form essential molecules found within all organisms. Carbon is found within your reef aquarium in abundance as inorganic bicarbonate. When these carbon molecules are incorporated into more complex forms within cells they are termed organic.
It has been reported that addition of certain organics can help enhance the appearance of the reef aquarium by reducing nitrates and phosphates. To do this, people have experimented with sugar, vinegar, and vodka. All of which are organic. Our discussion is focused on vodka addition. The reason vodka is used in comparison to other spirits such as whiskey, gin, or brandy is that vodka is more pure in composition than most other spirits because of its process of distillation. Other spirits are brewed with additives that enhance flavor. Vodka is not. Because it lacks additives it consists of mostly water and the organic compound ethanol. For this reason many feel vodka is a safer addition than other spirits by eliminating the possibility of adding other organic molecules that may act negatively within the reef environment.

Why dose Organic Carbon?
The main purpose to dose organic carbon is the reduction of excess nutrients in the reef aquaria. The two main nutrients reduced from organic carbon addition are nitrate and phosphate molecules (NO3 and PO4 respectfully). The reduction of phosphates, in turn, allows for enhanced calcification and growth of corals. Additionally, lower NO3 and PO4 have the added benefit of reduced nuisance algae, both bubble and hair. This observation has been reported numerous times by vodka users. The reduction in algae is the result of lower NO3 and PO4 within the water column and not a direct effect of ethanol addition. These potential benefits have lead some to add foreign organic carbon sources not usually found in the reef ecosystem to their tank. The organic compound most frequently used is ethanol (sold in stores as vodka).
The addition of vodka/ethanol is thought to increase bacterial biomass. For this, vodka addition would result in bacterial growth and reproduction. During this process nutrients in the water (including NO3 and PO4) are taken up for the formation of new macromolecules that are needed in cell synthesis and viability. Due to this rapid growth and reproduction, NO3 and PO4 can drop quickly from detectable levels by most test kits on the market. The increased biomass of the bacteria leads to a notable increase in skimmate production, removing more waste than without vodka addition. The increased skimmate is thought to remove the bacteria or bacterial biproducts that have assimilated the NO3 and PO4 within the water column leading to NO3 and PO4 depletion.
Many view organic carbon dosing as unnecessary as organic carbon isn�t thought to be limited in the reef aquarium environment since larger organic molecules are found within the water column at any given time. However, the amount of organic carbon that heterotrophic bacteria can utilize must be limited due to the reported benefits and observations on Reef Central from organic carbon dosing. This method is applicable for systems that have had the inability to effectively remove both NO3 and PO4 from their system. Stable systems that do not contain high levels of NO3 and PO4 may not benefit to any great extent by employing carbon source dosing.

Equipment - Skimmer, An Absolute Must!

Well if it sounds so great, why can�t I just start dumping vodka/organic carbon into my system? Before running to the liquor cabinet, the simple answer is overdosing can cause serious and detrimental effects to the reef system. To help circumvent this potential issue a dosing regimen along with some basic equipment is needed. The absolute must is the requirement for a powerful skimmer. People that have reported beneficial results using this method all have had strong skimmer and report a change in skimmate from a light brown to a strong odiferous black sludge. This makes a good skimmer a key requirement and important for two reasons:

<LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">Gas exchange. The increased bacterial biomass and growth will decrease your dissolved O2 levels in the water column. Too much vodka can result in a drastic decrease of O2 and can cause stress to your reef inhabitants, if not death.
Exporting bacteria/macromolecule mass. Vodka addition results in lower NO3 and PO4 levels. You will want to export the incorporated nitrogen and phosphates that you are cultivating by organic carbon dosing. Efficient skimming allows such removal.

J�rg Kokott, a key contributor to the original thread, recommended the use of ozone during the duration of vodka dosing to maintain high levels of dissolved O2 in the system. This decrease in dissolved O2 is indirectly observed in ORP meter readings after vodka addition. Though not an absolute requirement, as told from many RC participants, ozone may add an extra level of protection by increasing O2 levels during an overdose.
Gelbstoff, German for yellow matter, is reported to buildup in aquariums over time. Additions of vodka or other carbon sources have the potential to accelerate the yellowish water buildup from organics. To solve this problem, people have utilized ozonators to breakdown of the organic molecules responsible for resulting in yellowish water. Ozone is an attractive choice as it would not only breakdown the gelbstoff but will also add O2 to the water in case of an overdose. For people not interested in running ozone other solutions for this problem are the addition of granulated activated carbon or through regular water changes.

Left photos are pre-dosing of vodka.

Right photos are post-dosing.
Photos courtesy of Mike Woodard (miwoodar).
Pictured above is miwoodar's tank. This aquarium successfully used vodka to lower nitrates and phosphates. His setup utilizes a skimmer but does not utilize ozone. After reduction, continued growth and coloration was observed amongst SPS and LPS corals.

Dosing Instructions

These instructions will focus solely on using 80 proof vodka (40% ethanol by volume). They do not pertain to other organic carbon sources that are also currently used, including common table sugar (sucrose) and vinegar (sodium acetate). The dosing instructions below were as dictated by J�rg Kokott and have been used successfully by us.

<LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">Test your system�s NO3 and PO4 levels. Do not dose if you do not know this! We recommend good test kits that have some low level of sensitivity. This will be important later on to determining a maintenance dose regimen. During the initial dosing test often and adjust dosing parameters as needed as each tank�s requirement will be different. Dosing accuracy is of the utmost importance. A graduated measurement tool such as a syringe will come in handy. A journal of additions and test kit measurements is recommended. <LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">Estimate your Net Water Volume (NWV) of your system. (Aquarium volume + sump + refugium + reactor volumes) � (live rock displacement). It can be difficult to accurately measure the amount of water being displaced by the live rock. If unsure of the volume of live rock we suggest taking 30% off your display tank�s Gross Water Volume. For vodka dosing there is absolutely no harm in underestimating the Net Water Volume and is recommended. As an example, let us assume that your setup contains 100 Net Gallons.
<LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">The starting dosage is 0.1ml of vodka per 25 gallons (~100 liters) NWV daily continued for three days. For 100 Net Gallons, your dosage would be 0.4ml daily during this period. It has been suggested to cut the daily dosage in half and dose twice daily for more consistency. <LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">Days 4-7, double the daily dosage to 0.2ml of vodka per 25 gallons NWV. Your example dosage would be 0.8ml daily during this period. <LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">Each subsequent week add an additional 0.5ml of vodka regardless of aquaria volume. At this point your example dosage during week two would be 1.3ml daily. If you do not see nutrient levels decrease during this week, the following week add an additional 0.5ml for a daily dosage of 1.8ml daily. <LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">When your NO3 and PO4 levels start to drop maintain the current dose. For example, if you were on week two when NO3 start to fall on 100 Net Water Volume you would add 1.3mL daily at this time for the continuing weeks until the NO3 becomes undetectable. <LI style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif">When your NO3 and PO4 levels drop near undetectable with your test kits cut your current dose in half. This will be your starting maintenance dose (if the levels drop during week 2 then the dose after reaching undetectable levels would be 0.65ml daily [1.3ml divide by 2]).
Continue to test for NO3 and PO4. If levels become detectable in the future increase your daily dose by 0.1ml increments per week until the levels start to decrease. If you maintain that dose the levels will eventually drop back to undetectable. This would become your new maintenance dose.

Throughout your dosing, observe your livestock daily to look for any signs of stress. If stress of any sort is noticed stop dosing, or at a minimum cut back by reducing your dose in half. If for some reason you cannot remember if you�ve added for that day skip it. It is better to accidentally miss a dose than add twice as much (a journal will keep this from occurring). Never double the dose for missing a prior day!

Table 1. 40 Proof Vodka

Table 2. 80 Proof Vodka

Table 3. 100 Proof Vodka

Table 4. 160 Proof Vodka
For ease of use these tables have been generated to reflect a dosing schedule regimen for different common proofs of vodka. They follow the directions stated above and are rounded off to the nearest tenth decimal for simplicity. With use of these tables if you notice NO3 / PO4 dropping do not increase as stated within the table for the following weeks but follow the directions above starting at #6.

Common Questions</EM>
Bacterial Blooms - High additions of carbon sources at once are noted as production of slimy white strings upon rocks or in sumps that become noticeable a few hours to a day after addition. There is no clear evidence that this is detrimental to your tank. If this is observed dropping your dose by 50% will result in the disappearance of these strands. Additionally, these strands may have given rise to the notion of "bad bacteria". By this forum users mean pathogenic bacteria. But there has not been any documented evidence of such yet. If you happen to overdose your tank with an organic carbon dose, you will stimulate a bacteria bloom, this appears like a snowstorm in your tank. After a day, the tank will clear up. During this time people have reported mixed results on survival from this snowstorm. Stony_Coral has purposefully caused this on one tank and while ORP readings dropped, no loss of livestock was observed. However, people have mentioned loss of more delicate fish such as anthias during the visualized bloom. In general, a visible bloom will not occur if vodka is dosed as per the instructions above.
Bacterial Populations - Currently, it is unknown which bacterial populations grow with the addition of organic carbon. Some have suggested a single organic carbon source, such as vodka, results in monoculture or single specie growth. Due to this ideology, it has been increasingly common to dose multiple carbon sources as this may create additional bacterial diversity. Most likely, in any one organic carbon source addition there are several species that become dominant. However, it has not been decided whether diversifying impacts corals either beneficially or negatively.
Burnt tips - Some users of organic carbon dosing have reported the tissue loss at the ends of their SPS. These "burnt tips" have recovered once the user reduced the alkalinity levels within their tank to alkalinity levels closer to natural seawater (7-8 dKH), pictured below. Unfortunately, the root cause for this is not known.

Loss of tissue at tip ends with high Alkalinity.

Restoration of SPS tissue color and growth.
Photos provided by Peter Martis (SDguy).
Carbon Sources - Reduction in nitrates and phosphates can be accomplished with ethanol and vinegar with great efficiency. Other molecules that may aid in nutrient reduction are sugar, acetone, methanol, and isopropanol. We have not experimented with sugar though there are many threads on RC about this topic. The latter three have been called into question about the possible effects on health of the owner as well as the wellbeing of the aquarium inhabitants. For these reasons, we chose to describe ethanol addition as a means to decrease both nitrates and phosphate levels.
Coral Coloration / Paleness - With reduction of nitrates/phosphates SPS corals have been reported to increase in color pigmentation and have even been reported to pale over time. This is outside the scope of the article presented here. However, if looking for recommendations for additives that will reduce paleness and enhance SPS health check out amino acid addition as this has been reported to enhance coloration in a ULN (ultra-low nutrient) environment. If for any reason you experience coral bleaching, please stop vodka dosing!
Deep Sand Beds - People with Deep Sand Beds (DSBs) have reported issues with vodka dosing. These issues seem to be from increasing vodka additions over time without seeing a decrease in nitrate/phosphate levels. Users with DSBs that are failing to reduce nutrients efficiently may be experiencing a lack of nutrient decrease from the build up of organics within the DSB. If this were the case it would take more time to cycle out the nitrates within the system as there is now a hidden bed of organic waste that needs to be removed. Do not get discouraged or increase your dose irrationally as the vodka addition is working but not detectable as the DSB needs to cycle through completely before a reduction is observed. Keep adding vodka slowly until decreasing levels are detected. This may take months to achieve. Once there maintain that dose until nitrates start to decrease. At this point, it may be best to cut the dose in half and cut it in half again once undetectable is reached. Many people with DSBs who have reported issues increase vodka additions quickly and irrationally, leading to a detrimental overdose.
Feeding - A derivative of vodka dosing is the ability to increase feeding for fish or invertebrates without reducing water quality. Since the vodka is essentially removing the waste products (nitrates/phosphates) from the reef aquarium, addition of extra food is welcomed if not encouraged.
Old Tank Syndrome - Reef systems that have been running for longer than a year have reported vodka-dosing building up a thick sludge within some area of their reef. The thought is the buildup of organics and NO3/PO4 over time results in a high growth of bacteria from the addition of vodka. In tanks that are older, where detritus has built up, careful observation of the tanks state is needed. If thick sludge develops within the tank immediately reduce the dose by 50% and continue at that point until the sludge has disappeared and then slowly increase as per instructions laid out above.
Phosphate Removal / Granulated Ferric Oxide (GFO) - One of the most common questions is whether to use a phosphate removal material, such as GFO, with carbon dosing. GFO is useful in removal of phosphates from the water column. Essentially, by carbon source additions, the same net result is being achieved. It may even be counterproductive to run GFO while dosing an organic carbon source as both nitrate and phosphates need to be present for this to work properly. Therefore, it is not needed and not commonly recommended but some people continue to run phosphate reactors concurrently.
Water Clarity - Even without the use of either ozone or activated carbon, water clarity is said to improve dramatically with the vodka method. This has been stated by nearly everyone using this method and may be an indirect result of nitrate/phosphate removal from the water column. Dr. Jean Jaubert made similar claims of his plenum system, where nitrates and phosphates are also depleted and water clarity may be a result of this depletion.
Vodka Brand - One of the most common questions is which brand is the best. Honestly, it will make little difference on which brand is used. The most common response is to find the cheapest vodka brand and go with that. Do not use vodka that contains flavor additives such as raspberry or mango vodka. Additionally, industrial ethanol should not be used as a substitute as it contains denaturing agents that are toxic.

Summary
Vodka dosing has become a simple method for reduction of nitrates and phosphates that have plagued many reef aquarists. Here we have described a method for reduction of these nutrients by stimulation and promotion of bacterial growth through the addition of vodka. Though the underlying mechanism and actual bacteria populations are unknown the results are impressive for their ability to both rid the system of excess nitrates and phosphates.
Thanks go out to the many who have contributed to advancing this hobby. The detailed descriptions and results from fellow RC members is the reason behind writing this article. Without participation from the cohort of people on RC that bring their own talents to the hobby this article would not have been written. We want to recognize Peter Martis (SDguy) and Mike Woodard (miwoodar) for providing the photos within this article.
References
"Dosing vodka to bring down N and P."
"Let�s talk about Vodka/sugar dosing"
"Let's see 'em - Before and After pics of Vodka Dosing!"

If you have any questions about this article, please visit the Notes from the Trenches forum on Reef Central.

T8 ballast for T5

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 12:47pm CDT by dallasg

any reason why a T8 ballast wont drive a T5?

Urgent help needed Live Rock Has a white Fungus

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 12:42pm CDT by Angamia

Good Day Gents

My tank is still new only about a month now and is still cycling..Yesterday I noticed that on 3 of Live rocks there is a fungus and the one rock is smelling pretty bad..
How Do I fix this ?

In the Second Pic I have another rock but seem to find out what is growing on it It does not look like aptasia

Thanks in Advance

Pics to flow

PH Meter

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 12:21pm CDT by keyaam

Hey Guys

I need to buy a Ph meter as im gatvol of the pen. Please advise which one to go for.

Thanks,
Keyaam

Giant elephants ear (Amplexidiscus)

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 12:12pm CDT by 459b

I dont post many pics of my corals, but cant help myself with this one. This is my much prized, almost favourite coral. I included a scale bar to give an indication of its size. This picture was taken right after lights came on so its still waking up. I feed it pieces of hake.

Hello All

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 10:31am CDT by MichaelMD

Hello there, my name is Michael. I am a newbie, on this forum as well as to the marine tank keeping hoby.

I have been reading through the posts and there is a wealth of information here, I won't be short of help.

Thank you

FREEBIE Aquarium Books for sale: JHB

Posted: July 23rd, 2010, 10:09am CDT by Dolphin

Hardware for saleThread title:

FREEBIE Aquarium Books

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection Preferred

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

I am giving away the following aquarium book...

Please post here - no pm's.

Preferably please collect or I'll post registered mail if you cant collect.

Pocket Expert Guide - Reef Aquarium Fishes
by Scott Michael

Notes:

-

ID for fun

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 7:39am CDT by FransSny

Spawning pairs of nice looking ocellaris needed!

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 6:41am CDT by LuckyFish

Hi guys, I should have done this long time ago.

I am in need of two pairs nice looking ocellaris clowns.
It is worldwide experienced by other breeeders, that from 10 mated pairs only 2 to 4 pairs finally start spawning on a regular basis.

So if your ocellaris pair is spawning on a regular basis, please help me out and send me pictures of your pair. I am not interested in mated pairs as I got myself a mated pair which spawned twice and ate their eggs.:(

I am willing to pay for the fish and shipping and I am willing to replace your pair later with offspring from yours.

If anyone has got a spawning pair of onyx clowns, Black and white ocellaris or any other rare clowns, we really need to talk.

Clowns are known for bad shipment and often they come with diseases. So please help with establishing local clownfish supply!

Thanks and regards

Marcel

my DIY square skimmer

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 11:59pm CDT by brettb2020

Had some perspex offcuts lying around so decided to make a skimmer with it. I took the basic dimensions from a ts3. Lets hope it operates like one!

I used tensol-12 to glue everything together. that stuff is a nightmare to work with! 100 times worse than silicone! after a few months running all the messy bits should covered up:razz:

here are some pics of the progress so far, just need to put the pipes in and put the bottom on :thumbup:

uyjh

Not Sure if skimmer is working 100%

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 11:31pm CDT by vatso

have a look not sure if it's working 100% :)

Wanted:METAL HALIDE 150W Single Ended for sale: JHB

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 11:22pm CDT by Tidy

Hardware WANTEDThread title:

Wanted:METAL HALIDE 150W Single Ended

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Will Collect

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi Guys i need a SINGLE ENDED 150W

Notes:

-

July 2010 Meeting (Urgent)

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 11:04pm CDT by Mekaeel

Dear members

Please note this months meeting will be held on Tuesday the 27/07/2010 at the Durban under Sea Club at the Point Waterfront (Next to Ushaka), 18:30.
The club committe is kind enough to share with us their Aquarist section. This way it will benefit both the DUC as well as the ECRC.
The club does have a restaurant, bar and braai facility, so you wont go hungry or thirsty. ;)
All welcome.

Cheers
Mekaeel

New member

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 10:33pm CDT by RocheH

Hi all. As you all know Im new to the form the site looks great & very helpful. Anyway many years ago we dad/I had a marine setup, now Im on my own & going to try it again but on a much smaller scale 4FT standard. Well I got most of my equipment now I just wanted to know if this will do for a SPS tank.
Setup: 4ft tank+overflow, sump 115×40×40cm total vol ±430Liters
All Aqua medic CAL1000, NIT1000, Ocean light ×6 T5s, turboflotor Blue3000, OR3500, WAVE, all the controller bits............top up. PS: tank is not running yet still doing some reading cause a lot has changed in the last couple of years. Any advise will be great thanks.

Freshwater coral?

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 10:09pm CDT by deadmeat2016

I've been searching the web and it seems some people seem to have heard of freshwater corals and aquarists use calcium reactors for freshwater coral tanks?(wikipedia - calcium reactor) but sounds like a rumor to me, just wondering if anyone has any articles or anything about this 'freshwater coral' :whistling:

Regal tang info

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 4:23pm CDT by Dikdaan

Hey all

Whats the needs and wants of Regal tangs?
Pro's and con's?
Tank size?
Reefsafe and crustacean safe?
Price vs size?

Can any one please give advice on this...
Thanks a lot

Boyu TL 550

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 1:00pm CDT by rudivh

Good day everyone

I have a Boyu TL 550 tank that i would like to sell and would like to know if anyone might be interested. The tank is only about 4 or 5 months old. In the last few months i spent about R13 000 on fish, live rock, blower pumps, test kits, medicine, sand and all that stuff. Of course that will all go with the tank.

Thank you

Moonlight - LED striplight from Makro

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 12:39pm CDT by neo

Hi,
I'v been looking for a moonlight for my tank when I saw this (and bought one) at Makro Centurion for R159.

Opening it

and check the kelvin rating

this unit is the smallest and you then get it at increments of 3 leds at a time.
You also get them in a flexible silicon option.
This 6 led unit gives 1.44watt, 72 lumens, 135mA

The bigger units are a bit expensive compared to the 6 led unit.

More info at
lumeno LED lights

I bought this yesterday and last night I went to a demo of a security vehicle which was fitted with 2 of the big brothers of this 6 led unit, the light at night inside the cabin was amazing.

light in my tank is very good, maybe to bright for moonlight purpose
this was taken with my cellphone with the led lights with all other lights in the house off.

Carbon or Vodca/Sugar dosing

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 12:29pm CDT by Nico Kortenbout

Hi there

I am still a relative newbie at Marine tanks. I will psot a thread soon with pics of my setup but I would like to know more about Carbon dosing. I have read on various threads about dosing with Vodca and/or Sugar. I have a 250L display tank and a 50L sump. How and why do you dose with Vodca or Sugar. I have also read about the new NP Bio Pellets from Marco at the Waterboy. Is this a better option?

Thanks very much.

Surfing mags for free

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 11:58am CDT by timhar99

Hi guys, I have a bunch of old surfing and bodyboarding mags i need to get rid of. So if anyone in CT wants, drop me a line

New Shipments!

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 11:47am CDT by Naiema

Stunning new marines landed at Sams Aquarium:Blue Face&Regal Angels, Clown& Blue throat Triggers, True Percula Clowns, Emperor,Blue Ring& Koran Angels,Bi Colours, Coral Beauties, Lrge range Butterflies,Eels, Lions.Regal,Yellow, Sailfin,Lipsticks,Unicorn& Scopas Tangs.Moon Wrasse, 6 line Wrasse, Cleaners.Hermit, Blue knuckle& Anemone Crabs. Anemones, Cleaner, Fire,Dancing & Boxer Shrimps and more. Please call us on 0217122534/0826368990.:thumbup:

My new Coral Box

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 11:05am CDT by Gawiedj

I've ordered a new tank.
Big tanks are not for me... I learned that lesson with the 1.2 I bought end of last year. I just cannot get it the way I like and it's a mission to work on it because I cannot work inside it unless I use a ladder....and the list goes on.
Anyway, you make mistakes, you learn from it and carry on.:thumbup:

So I ordered a new tank from Phuture Labs, before we get to the specs let me tell you what I plan for this tank.

As you know I love coral, so this tank will be dominated by coral, mostly recordea, zoas etc., with 4 fish.
The fish
1x Royal Gramma
1x Sleeper Goby
2x Clowns

So as you can se the bioload on this setup will be minimal. (Keep that in mind)

So the tank specs:

800 L x 600 W x 600 H (288 Liters)
12mm glass
Rimless with black silicone and flame polished glass.

There will be a 10cm gap at the back of the tank. Blocked off with a piece of black perspex. There will be 4 sections for Chemical filtration, DSB & LR, Macro Algea and the last chamber for heaters pumps etc.

It will look something like this

The tank, in this drawing you will see only 3 chambers at the back, however after some redesigning 4 chambers is the way I will go go.

I will use the following equipment:

Reef Octopus HOB Skimmer
150w MH with 2 x 24w T5 Actinic tubes
4300 lph CLS pump with 2 outlets on the back pane
Depending on the flow in the tank I will add 1 or 2 3500lph sun sun pumps
2 x 150w Jeager heaters

I have a lot of LR (All the LR from my Nano, All the LR from my 1.2 and then some more and will add as much as I can

I will run Carbon, Phosgaurd and Purigen for chemical filtration

10cm Deep in tank DSB.

I will do 50l weekly water changes with NSW.

Mandarins

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 10:41am CDT by Jacojs

Hi everyone.

Just curios, what is the smallest size tank one needs to have to keep a mandarin, can one keep 2 Mandarins in a tank and if yes what size tank would it have to be.

I know that the size of the tank is not the deciding factor but rather a sustainable pod population.

Jaco.

$Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/07/22/Refractometer_for_sale__Durbanville__Cape_Town'$

Refractometer for sale: Durbanville, Cape Town

Posted: July 22nd, 2010, 9:59am CDT by timhar99

Hardware for saleThread title:

Refractometer

Location:

Durbanville, Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Milwaukee Refractometer for sale
Brand new,
R400

Notes:

-

Mauritius Shipment landing tomorrow

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 9:15pm CDT by lanzo

Good day Guys

We will be landing this long awaited shipment tomorrow...some really nice fish coming in

Like 3 GEMS:thumbup:
and some other fish only found in Mauritius

We will be closed tomorrow afternoon...will spesify time later

Come and book your fish from friday and collect them after QT period.

The fish from last weeks shipment will be for sale from Saterday:thumbup:
Except for the angels...they have to stay one more week.

Best Regards
Dorry Pets Group

Setting The Marine Trend

Any one driving from Dbn to JHB?

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 8:20pm CDT by vatso

Hi there

Peeps I have that Inverter system in Durban I need to get to JHB anyone coming up over the weekend or soon? & would be willing to put it in their car?

thanks

Mark

New and hoping to learn lots!

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 7:45pm CDT by Facey

Just wanna say hi to all! :wave2:
I am sooo excited I came across this site!

Hope to learn more on Freshwater tanks....

WARNING:
I have got my tank for 3 years now, started with baby parrots, silver dollars, catfish, pintail sharks, eal, Plec and two kissing gouramis. Never had one problem!

They grew, got so big and became like kids in my house. I bought a valcanic rock at a shop (so tempted to tell where - as the dude had such a bad attitude when I told him) cause my two Parrots where making a nest. Two weeks later my 2 Parrots, Plec and One Pintail Shark died. I was devastated! I took out the rock as that was the only difference in my tank for three years. I went back being very nice about it and got the worst response after I told him just to stop selling these rocks before more heartache!

Then I thought maybe it wasn't the rock. I took the rock and put it in my pond yesterday ... and today all my goldfish is dead!

I don't understand it as I had it in Boiling water etc.... I will be getting rid of this Stupid Volcanic rock! Now nothing is the same, the water get dirty quicker and the No3 test high the whole time and it looks like there is something growing on the glass! How can I get everything back to normal?

:)

What do you feed your Corals/Inverts?

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 7:22pm CDT by Storm

Hello, what do you feed your Corals/Inverts? Inverts I meen (Fanworms, Anenomes ect). Ive been feeding various LPS, SPS, Anenomes (Sabae and Retteri) and a sh*itload of fanworms Reef Snow for over a year now. Things have been going good, growing steadily allowing me to frag atleast one coral branch every month off from each Coral. However, I am curious if there is anything better on the market that will promote quicker growth. Thanks.

Fish compatibility

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 5:19pm CDT by dominodeluxe

Sho
I started a few months ago with a new tank and i just want to know if an Anthias fish is compatible with two blue green damsels ,shrimp, clown and a starfish?

I noticed on the surface of the water that there is a kind of layer of stuff forming similar to the bubbles in the protein skimmer and im still at school so i could'nt afford a sump but does anyone have a cheap solution?

Skimmer for sale for sale: Durbanville, Cape Town

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 4:58pm CDT by timhar99

Hardware for saleThread title:

Skimmer for sale

Location:

Durbanville, Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Via Aqua sk388 for sale,
Good condition
R300

Notes:

-

Extending Buyo WM 3 Wavemaker

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 4:41pm CDT by FransSny

Guys I need to lengthen the cable on a WM 3 unit between the pump & controller...any ideas

Zoanthide help

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 3:42pm CDT by regis

I have a couple of questtions for those zoa pro`s

1.) How deep should they be placed in the tank
2.) do they like MH and t5 of both.
3.) high flow / medium flow.

I have two small colonys, they have really never done well in my tank.

All my water parameters below

nitrate 0
phosphate 0
sg 1.026
ph 8.3
calcium 400
mg 1250
kh 3.5 meq/l
temp 25
nitritre 0

I have 3 39w blue t51s and 2 70w mh

tank pic

ID please?

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 3:09pm CDT by JAJA

One of these (the green things - looks like anenome) hitched a ride with some live rock about 2 months ago. I target fed it with some mysis/brine and sortly thereafter it multiplied. Since then it has multiplied to 9 individuals so far. None of them have grown any larger. Anyone have an idea what these are? Alan

Frag plugs

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 2:15pm CDT by Evo R

Hey guys

Im looking for frag plugs or small pieces of LR to mount new frags on.
The plugs or the LR pieces must be fully cured!

Thanx

water temp effect on salinity

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 1:16pm CDT by ziyaadb

What is the effect of temp on salinity. When mixing up a batch of fresh salt does the temp make a difference or does the warmer temp just aid in dissolving of the salt?

skimmer for sale for sale: Durbanville

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 1:07pm CDT by clown

Hardware for saleThread title:

skimmer for sale

Location:

Durbanville

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection or Shipping on you're cost

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

:wave2:

I am selling my skimmer for R400.00 and the reason for selling is that I am up gradding to a new skimmer.

Comes with its pump and the flow of the pump is 2400 lt /hour.
Please see pics below.

Notes:

-

egg crate & LR wanted

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 12:23pm CDT by clown

Hi All,

Is there any one that can share or part of with a pcs of egg grate about 30cm(W) x 40cm (L) - 1 pcs

I am looking for 2 pcs of small to medium live rock as well not uge pcs.

I will pay if required.

PM if you can help.

Reef Octo xp1000 cone skimmer

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 12:21pm CDT by Trev

Hey guys does anyone has experiance with this skimmer I am looking for feed back from guys who have used it, also what water hight were you running on it?

Trev

Amount of LR needed

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 11:39am CDT by rakabos

Hi

I have tried searching but to no real avail...

What is a good ratio for LR to volume of water in a tank?

Hammer Coral

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 10:31am CDT by Francois

Hi Guys
I need your help...Something is wrong with my hammer coral.Its been in my tank for a year now, its been doing great until now it looks like its got jelly infection on the one side or something.....Should I treat it with a FW dip or Iodine dip?

Good RO unit

Posted: July 21st, 2010, 9:25am CDT by rakabos

Hi guys

I need a RO unit for a 270L tank. What can you suggest as it's the first time i will buy one...

DIY Bio Rock

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 1:33am CDT by wukkie

Hi All

I am looking for a recipe to make Bio Rock. I am happy to go the Creamic route as well if need be. I have a mate who can bake it for me if needed.

Any help will do, thanks.

Angel tank

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 12:48am CDT by lanzo

Wa busy dong research on my new setup for the shop and came across this

Im pretty confinced by now that im going to have my new tank and angel tank with some corals that they wont eat.

Have a look at all these nice angels...damn

YouTube- Marine Angelfish Tank HD (update)

YouTube- Marine Angelfish Tank HD (update)

Increasing the flow in a dsb

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 11:28pm CDT by frankie fish

Just a quick question,how do i safely increase the flow in my dsb without increasing the return pumps capacity,coz currently i'm running 2*3000l/h pumps=6000l without headloss,how do i calculate that anyway,water being pumped up straight 4 about 1.6m,in a 25mm tube. Any help?pls

Phosphate Remover and Pincushion

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 10:10pm CDT by RiaanP

I connected up my phosphate reactor last week. During the time I was away in June, my wife and son did slightly overfeed, I got cayno on the sand, not too bad and some algae started on some rocks. What is funny, it is especially the lower rocks. Less light areas. My back glass always had algae growth, that I leave for the herivorous snails.

Anyway, connected the phosphate reactor, and since then, my pincushions pulled back and does not extend at all. And today the big one (side plate size) is sloped forward. I did blow some water over it, and some fine white stuff did blow off it. It did pull back on reaction to the extra water movement. Everything else in the tank is fine. The big green brain coral looks good, where a week ago it was pulled back and looked bad. Actually was contemplating on removing it back to Lanzo for it to recover. But now, the brain is 100%. And the Pincushion is down.

Or do pincushions sulk for a week?

Drainage pipe

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 9:14pm CDT by Jacojs

Howzit people.

I want to incorporate a drainage pipe on my tank a)For water changes and b)well for water changes or tank drainage :P

I however can't find any threads about how to do this or where the hole must be drilled etc etc.

Pictures of you guys that have a drainage pipe worked in will be very much appreciated, I am still planning my tank so any advice or ideas very welcome.

Thanks.
Jaco.

Mg Test kits

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 5:34pm CDT by Pete

Hi All am a bit stumped here as I have tested my Mg with three diff kits and these are the results

Salifert - 1140 tested today (New Kit)
Tropic Marin - 1310 will have to check again as this one was done on the weekend (Kit a month old)
Elos - 1300 tested today (kit About 3 months old)

So has enybody else had this experiance before and wich one would you go with...

Can Bio-balls be added to the over flow

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 4:28pm CDT by Angamia

Good Day Ladies and Gents

I need advise please..

I currently have 300L tank which is still cycling, In the Sump I have the bio balls and ceramic rings which I will remove this weekend, (as advised by fellow reefers on this Form).

My question I have, in my over flow can I add some of the bio balls in there to suppress the noise.

Victorian Era Reefkeeping

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 4:25pm CDT by Dane

For those who haven't seen these yet! :-)

These guys already thought of stuff like macro, scrubbers, cryptic zones etc. Really intersting!! :-)

History of parlour aquarium

Lloyd part 1

New Page 1

New reefoholic!

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 1:46pm CDT by SumthingFishy

Good day my peoples :wave2:
Please to meet you all.

Live in Paarl, Western Cape and work in the IT industry.
Just starting out with marines after keeping bathwater fish for 15 years. Wanted a new challenge and the beauty of keeping marines is just so much more rewarding.

I have been lurking on the site for quite a while and I must say that the advice and contents are superior! And most of the time funny. Have been planning my setup now for more than a year and learning new things everytime I visit the site to look up on marines (no, not navy seals...hehe).

Well I have 2 setups in process. A 200ltr cube and my main tank, a standard 4 foot tank with a side overflow box. Tank is still in the process of been modified. Hopefully all goes well and will be picking it up this weekend....woohoo.
Planning to keep anything possible...lps, sps, you name it. But I am in no hurry!
Lighting is the biggest concern at the moment as I am still deciding what to get. Looking towards LED technology at the moment, but still just planning. Found a LED specialist who can just about do anything with LEDs. Also living in Paarl it gets very hot in the summer, so a chiller is also in the wishlist.

Overall I am just trying to have fun and have my own piece of ocean at home :)
And yes pics will be posted soon :thumbup:

Your Top 5 Marine Products???

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 1:23pm CDT by Jaco Schoeman

Hey gents, I was wondering, what is your Top 5 Marine Products? If possible, also give a reason why. I think this might help others learn about products they didn't know before.

This is NOT a favorite fish or coral thread, and we are not "punting" business for any sponsor or bad mouth any products please!!!

Just give your Top 5 products and say why, even if this means you dig Bio Balls...;)

Feeding Palythoas?

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 12:47pm CDT by neil.h

Been trawling the forum for answer, but have yet to find anything definitive.

From googling and Reef Central, consensus seems to be feeding about once a week. Marine Snow ok?

Big thanks to Adee for the Palys! Opened up within half an hour under my lights, mouths aren't flourescent green yet, but can see the green starting to come out

Just Joined

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 12:12pm CDT by kRush

Hi all

Ive been browsing forums for the last few days. Really awesome forum for SA marine tanks.

I had a noob tank many years ago. Sold it and made a nice custom 600l with 200l sump. Loved it but didnt have time to maintain it so sold it.
Thinking of getting back into it but need to motivate my self (and my wallet)

kalk stirrer

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 11:24am CDT by teez

hi all,

does anyone have a kalk stirrer that they can part with, jhb or dbn. i will pick up.

thanks in advance ... :peroni::peroni::peroni:

Shadowbox background

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 10:55am CDT by leslie hempel

Anyone in SA tried this concept.

very cool for creating the illusion that there is more depth to the tank.

My Shadowbox Background Project - Reef Central Online Community

Parts and LR needed

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 10:50am CDT by rakabos

Hi guys

Starting a tank and need some items:

Live Rock 30kg or so (cured)
Skimmer, 800L or so rating (Display tank is 270L, + sump) (GOT ONE NOW)
Return pump 3000L
Heaters(s) for sump
RO UNIT

Ready to collect the equipment and pay if you have the items listed above. LR i will collect in 2 weeks time or so after it's set up

Cheers

AM LED (aquasunspot)

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 10:33am CDT by leslie hempel

Soon to be in SA i hope....

aquasunspot

LED Spot light for saltwater aquaria.

aquasunspot are constructed using 1 watt power LED´s. The combination of white (10,000 K) and blue LEDs results in a perfect colour spectrum for coral reef aquariums. The light efficiency is c. 90 lumen/watts.
aquasunspot 3 can be used in standard light fittings usually used for 12 V (~ or=) halogen lamps with a 2 pin socket (GU 5,3). aquasunspot 7 and aquasunspot 12 can be used in light fittings using the E27 socket; aquasunspot 12 is also compatible with PAR lamps.
aquasunspot 3 W, Ø 5 cm, LED 2 white/1 blue, art.-no.: 83314003
aquasunspot 7 W, Ø 9.2 cm, 5 white/2 blue, art.-no.: 83314007
aquasunspot 12 W, Ø 12 cm, 8 white/4 blue, art.-no.: 83314012

buying LR with aiptasia

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 9:47am CDT by B2048

Hi all

I have been looking at Live Rock recently and have seen some with visible Aiptasia on it. Is this perfectly normal? And would it just be inviting trouble if I had to buy it like that?

B.

A few questions on Rowaphos

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 9:31am CDT by ziyaadb

Hi There

I have a few questions on using Rowaphos? I am setting up a new tank 455L display and 500ml of Rowaphos.

I have a reactor to use it in. what would be the ideal size pump for it in terms of litres per hour?

Is it possible to use too much Rowaphos and overdose the tank?

Thank you

Profilux Vortech Control Module

Posted: July 20th, 2010, 8:14am CDT by vatso

Hi all

I have seen a post that there is a module out on pre order for the US & canada I will get more info on if it will work in SA & when it will be available

this module is only available for the Profilux 3 as it controls the vortech through the PAB

Quote:

This is a PAB controlled device and as such can only be installed on a Porfilux 3 Aquarium Controller.

Hailea Chiller HC 130A for sale: PTA or JHB

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 1:41am CDT by brandonb

Hardware for saleThread title:

Hailea Chiller HC 130A

Location:

PTA or JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Secondhand hailea hc130 chiller for sale

used for 6-7 months

Rated for 50-300 litres (perfect for nanos)

Reason for selling: leaving marines unfortunately.

Price: R 2500

Notes:

-

Jan's new build

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 12:23am CDT by JvS

Hi everyone;

When I was in school and varsity I used to keep fresh water (Central American and then Malawi's). Later on I moved to Natal. I use to keep koi when I lived in Natal (Richards Bay and Kloof), but when I moved back to Centurion after 7 years in Natal, my wife suggested I try a marine tank. The koi gave me an insight into the nitrification cycle and although marine is much more involved it did help me a lot as I understood at least a small part of the bacteria at work. The learning curve was steep, but after reading the books by Julius Sprung and lots of information on this site and with some time passing the tank I set up (1.5 x 0.5 x0.6(h)) was taking shape. I focussed mainly on the water quality and test once a week. The beginning was a mess as I got incorrect advice from a local dealer (not one from MASA), but then steffany put me onto Lanzo, who really helped me a lot. I then decided to build a larger tank as I realised what I thought I needed. I moved the old tank and Lanzo and Peter won the quote for the tank.

Herewith a few photo's of my existing tank after it was moved to the garage. (What a job).

The fist thing that was delivered was the stand. It was build through Lanzo and it had to carry the new tank of 2.8m (L) x 1m (w) x 0.6m (h). The one thing I was not going to do any longer was to crawl in under a tank to work on something 11H00 at night, so I decided to move the sumps etc. to the garage where I could reach them easier and also keep the room where the tank is in as dry as possible. The area under the tank is meant to be very dry, so moving the sumps tied in with that objective. The stand is made from 50 mm square tubing and is powder coated.

The glass arrived soon after:

The tank has a canopy and all lighting will by hidden. Therefore I could afford to use euro bracing.

As you can see the garage was a mess and the daughter's car had to sleep outside. For a week I said, but it turned out to be a few months.

Whilst I was waiting for the stand and the glass I had the wood that has to cover the tank and to make the canopy pre cut at Ferreira's. The have a brand new machine and their accuracy was excellent. In the meantime I build the canopy. I split the canopy in two halves to make it easier to handle. I also deigned it that the front cover could clip off. This means that you can get into the tank without moving the lights. I will add more photo's of this once it is on the tank. I chose Crown cut royal mahogany and stained it later on to go with the furniture.

As I am an accountant without woodwork experience, the yorkie was there to supervise.

And then the sides went on 12 mm glass.

and even better at night, Lanzo and Peter really did a neat job. I thought there would be a mess in the house, but I must complement them as Corrie never had to complain about a mess.

Now we had to wait, and work on the woodwork, whilst the base had to go in.

Creepy, Weird, you can't keep life down

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 11:19pm CDT by abgg118

Hi all,

So, I've got this very old tin of brine shrimp eggs:

... which I open up:

... to find it actually being infested, with the creatures having molted and grown until there were no more space left!

Give life a chance and it'll grab it, hey?

thinking about getting coral!

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 11:15pm CDT by ijssoccerfreak

I have a 37 gallon Marineland Eclipse. Contains installed filter that came w/ combo, and a 205 Fluval Canister filter. Lighting: coralife & reefsun 50/50. I have 2 clarkii clownfish & 2 BTA; what should i do to prepare for coral/what would be the best/easiest coral to start with. VERY excited! this is a great hobby!:slayer:

oh before i forget, if i do start with coral, what other fish would be adequate for reefs & clowns?!

Diy-profilux

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 10:35pm CDT by burt

HI THERE ,im going diy with profilux, i want to know is there a way to do this diy?if yes, then i need plans, can any one help me with this please?

Clarkii Clowns

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 9:34pm CDT by ijssoccerfreak

I just recently purchased 2 clarkii juveniles, 1 came with a BTA, and the other by itself, because i already had 1 BTA. the two nems were near, and now the established clarkii won't let the other near the 2 anemones, what should i do?!
:eek:

250W Electronic Ballast & Bulb for sale: JHB

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 9:10pm CDT by vatso

Hardware for saleThread title:

250W Electronic Ballast & Bulb

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collect

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

250W Electronic Ballast & ReefTek Bulb both 4 months old R1000 for both

Notes:

-

250W Electronic Ballast & Bulb for sale: JHB

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 9:10pm CDT by vatso

Hardware for saleThread title:

250W Electronic Ballast & Bulb

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collect

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

250W Electronic Ballast & ReefTek Bulb both 4 months old R1000 for both

Notes:

-

TS4 Skimmer for sale: JHB

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 9:07pm CDT by vatso

Hardware for saleThread title:

TS4 Skimmer

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collect

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi TS4 Skimmer with 3 new pumps oldest pump is 4 months old still have 8 month warranty on the pumps.

Notes:

-

R2000

TS4 Skimmer for sale: JHB

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 9:07pm CDT by vatso

Hardware for saleThread title:

TS4 Skimmer

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Collect

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi TS4 Skimmer with 3 new pumps oldest pump is 4 months old still have 8 month warranty on the pumps.

Notes:

-

R2000

Breeding Beardies and Teranium for sale

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 6:32pm CDT by martin

For sale:
A pair of breeding Beardies, male and female are +- 47 cm in length. We have had 4 x +- 32 babies from the pair so far.
Included:
Teranium 70x70x220cm
Lighting
Heating
Temp / humidity gages
rock/wood scaping
Home made incubation kit that works
All in as a whole unit R5000

Orange spine unicornfish

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 5:54pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Does anyone own one of these unicornfish? if so are they hard to care for, saw loads in the red see and i need one :P Am i also correct in saying they're also called naso tang?:whistling:

catching copepods and other small cultures in the Cape

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 5:14pm CDT by hypn

Hi Guys,

Always hear how easy it is to get copepods in Sea-Point Cape Town, I am keen to get into the rock pools and catch some but Sea-Point has one mass of rock pools, where should I be looking ?

Any marine guys in the Cape possibly hitting rock pools in the next two weeks, I would love to join

Andre

marine dealers in the cape

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 5:10pm CDT by hypn

Hi Guys,
I am visiting the Cape for two weeks, any directions to some nice marine dealers shops would be fantastic.

Thanks

Andre:)

DIY MH and uv glass

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 3:34pm CDT by dallasg

Hi all,

where can one get UV glass for use with a MH150w in jhb?

thanks

Profilux 3

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 2:54pm CDT by CliveS

I have recently bought a Profilux 3 and was wondering if anyone could give me some help here. The manual is not that great and the translation is even worse!

I have a 140l Buyo (I know - this is total overkill!)

At this stage, I am using it only to run 3 pumps - the main circulation pump and two Seio props. All three are plugged directly into the 220V extender bar and can only be switched on or off.

The main cirulation pump I want to run all the time, but the two props I want to switch off at night. I also want all three to switch off for 5 minutes for feeding.

I have the circulation pump setup as a 'filter'. The chap at Profilux tells me that the two Seios should set up as either 'timer' or 'current pump'. I set them up as 'timer', as I could see no way of switching them on and off automatically as 'current pump'.

With this configuration, I can only get the 'filter' to switch off for FP. The two 'timer' pumps don't respond to the FP.

The other thing that I don't understand, is that as soon as I set a timer up (I set timer one to 08h00 to 21h00 to control the two 'timer' pumps), the FP symbol continually flashes, which makes me think that the unit believes that it is permanently in FP mode. When I press 'esc', the 'filter' no longer responds to FP, whereas before I set the timer, it did.

I have flashed the Profilux to V501c and the desktop software is V5011.

I am obviously missing something here and would really appreciate help.

Thanks

NP Reducing Pellets Bacterial Bloom

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 2:41pm CDT by Manic

Hey Everyone,

So I finally started with the NP pellets on friday. I'm running 1L of the media in a reef octopus phosphate reactor in a 550L tank. So the expected has happened, I have a huge bacterial bloom. My water is cloudy and my skimmer is going mad, almost spraying water out the cup. I've read about this happening on the overseas forums, has anyone else experienced the same. According to other forums, the bacterial bloom only lasts a few days.

DSB donation needed

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 12:54pm CDT by SaltyReef

Hi All,

does anyone have a cup of sand from their mature DSB that they would not miss and would be prepared to donate.

I desperately need to seed mine with some life.:wave2:

Setting up a refugium.

Posted: July 19th, 2010, 9:54am CDT by Creep

Hi Guys.

Ive got a refugium but dont know if im managing it the right way or have set it up te right way.

Ive got 5cm of sugar fine sustrate.
Few pieces of live rock.
No lights. My ats lights give bit of light but not much as its over my dsb.
No flow in the refugium self exept for a very small pump pumping water in the refugium. To my return Pump.

There is some very few small specs I assume its pods swimming around, and some bigger things looks like small jellyfish shaped creatures swimming around and sticking to the glass about less than 10 of them.

Orherwise noting else going on.

Is it fine this way?

Encouraging coral growth

Posted: July 18th, 2010, 10:40pm CDT by Dane

Hey guys,

Just read an interesting thread on NR about a dude that agitates his corals to encourage growth. I know that fragging is a good way to get your corals growing, but I thought that was just because its increasing the available space - or margins (in mat forming soft corals).

But apparently this guy cuts thin slices in the stalk of his zoas and palys, or just cuts it straight in half down the middle of the zoa, like you would with a mushroom. Similar thing with SPS, nippping the tips of acro etc once if its slowing down in terms of growth.

Just wanted to know if you guys have experienced anything like this? I had a purple and pink zoa that had really shut down in terms of growth, and I just split it into three clusters. But what I'm more interesting is just agitating the coral, wounding it so to speak - apparently the damaged tissue often sprouts some new polyps - sounds like an interesting idea?

Thanks for your input in advance,
D

Sun Coral Question

Posted: July 18th, 2010, 8:01pm CDT by Ross

Howdy

My wife picked up a great looking Sun Coral yesterday. Most of it opened up after about an hour in the tank so I though while we had the chance to feed it.

Well that did not go to well, as the food hit the water from the end of the turkey blaster my shrimps devoured it. Also they ran all over the Sun so it closed up. I know a lot of people put a half coke bottle over it but mine is in a over hang.

Any ideas or will it be ok for me to move it to a more suitable space feed it and then put it back?

Ta,

Ross

what could be causing this?

Posted: July 18th, 2010, 7:08pm CDT by Adee

I've been meaning to post this before.

A little while back I had this issue happen with my big green slimer....since stopped.

It's now happening on this blue acro...almost as if the tips and polyps are being chewed off. I had this coral for over a year.

could this oke be the cause?...checked the branch he was perched on (this is a different coral)...all looked ok. Incidentaly I have had these hermits for a number of years.

thoughts?

Leather coral frag for sale: Krugersdorp (mogale city)

Posted: July 18th, 2010, 6:10pm CDT by ml

Single frag for saleCommon Name:

Leather coral

Scientific Name:

Sarcophyton Trocheliop

Size of coral

5 cm

How long have you had the coral?

2 years

Shipping or Collection only:

No shipping

Your location.

Krugersdorp (mogale city)

Price:

R 50

Photo's:

(Only the leaters inside the holder)

Notes:

I wil swop for any corals or fish.

salt or NSW

Posted: July 18th, 2010, 5:56pm CDT by ravi

hi all. i have a 4ft tank thats now ready for water but i dont know what to use. i live in durbs so NSW isnt difficult to obtain and its much cheaper too but how much must i get. my tank is 1200*500*500. pls help

Reefocto Orca 80 Ext for sale for sale: Cape Town

Posted: July 18th, 2010, 9:55am CDT by FransSny

Hardware for saleThread title:

Reefocto Orca 80 Ext for sale

Location:

Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

Ship at buyers expense / risk

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

4 Moth old skimmer for sale.

Recirculating Pin-Wheel Skimmer w/ Bubble Plate
(120mm Diameter)

Footprint 265x205x550mm

1 x OTP-1000 pump + Heilia Feeder pump

Rated for 500l

Price New: Skimmer - R 2400
Feeder Pump: R 200

My price for complete unit R 2000

Reason for sale: Skimmer upgrade

Notes:

Mods I will upload a pic as soon as I am in an area with better 3G reception

New Profilux Firmware released

Posted: July 17th, 2010, 8:15pm CDT by vatso

Hi all

Here are the links to the new Profilux Beta Firmware

http://www.aquariumcomputer.com/Down...Lux3_V502f.zip

And Software needed with new firmware

http://www.aquariumcomputer.com/Down...trol_V5025.exe

Enjoy :)

Overflow problem......Please help

Posted: July 17th, 2010, 4:13pm CDT by Lockes

I have a new cube tank positioned in my living room, and the sump in the room behind it through a wall.

The tank has a center back overflow bottom drilled. I have then made a hole through the wall to the sump.

The problem is that the 50mm pipe that goes through the wall is then 80mm below the rim of the sump.

Can I use elbows to got up and over the side of the sump.

orange sponge

Posted: July 17th, 2010, 3:43pm CDT by greenie

I have seen an orange sponge in a shop and is just wondering, does anyone have experience in keeping these in his tank? What are the advantages / disadvantages?

new member and very keen.

Posted: July 17th, 2010, 3:22pm CDT by kobus

Hi every one,I am new and dont know much about marine aquariums. A freind of mine introdused me to MASA. Only begining to understand how marine aquariums are kept and still need to learn all the tricks before I start my aquarium. I am keeping fresh water aquariums curently. Please let me know any secrets in the start up of a new marine aquarium. dont want to spent money in the wrong places.

Eating to Beat Invasive Lionfish

Posted: July 17th, 2010, 2:03pm CDT by viper357

Anybody hungry?

Quote:

Conservation groups are fighting back with an unusual approach. "Eat them to beat them," is their slogan, and they're urging chefs and diners to enjoy the unwelcome fish as a tasty delicacy.

Eating to Beat Invasive Lionfish | USA | English

Out of town for a few days

Posted: July 17th, 2010, 11:18am CDT by FransSny

Sorry guys do to unforseen emergency I will be out of town untill wednesday

captive bred mandarins

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 3:25am CDT by Achilles

Isnt this wonderful i love how the hobby is evolving what a change from the 80s when keeping these fish was impossible

:thumbup: YouTube- ORA Spotted Mandarins eating Nutramar Ova

YouTube- ORA Spotted Mandarins eating Nutramar Ova

My "New" Skimmer

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 10:32pm CDT by vatso

So I was at Idol chatting to Adriaan about skimmers & one thing lead to another & well now I have a skimmer with a Bubble Blaster HY-5000S pump here are some pics

sorry camera phone pics

My 15 1/2 week old seahorses had babies!

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 8:53pm CDT by Anemone

There is certainly no shortage of seahorses here. I turned the lights on the juvi's tank today to find babies. I'm not counting these, but I estimate there to be about 80. They look pretty healthy too.

Various corals for sale: Cape Town

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 8:15pm CDT by Trev

Various corals for saleCommon Names:

See details as to much to put here

Scientific Names:

google it

Size of coral

some frags some big colonies

How long have you had the corals?

most a few months

Shipping or Collection only:

collect only

Your location.

Cape Town

Price:

for free

Photo's:

Guys I am giving away all my corals below is the list

Pink star polyps x1 ( big rock )

Green star polyps x 1 ( small rock )

Green button palys x 2 ( both big rocks )

Cinamon and beige button palys ( small rock )

Pulsing zenia x 2 ( small rock )

Birds nest coral x 1 ( on tile )

Various mushrooms +- 10 some on tiles some on rocks

Green stripped mushroom on tile ( big shroom )

Candy cane coral x 1 ( medium - big rock )

Pin cushion coral

Ricordia coral

Then I have about 12 x zenia frags some are border line colonies or very big frags colors from common green to orange, brown, blue, purple, red and green

Pn I dont have time to post pics and the MASA mods dont seem to like me advertising stuff for free so you guys better hurry up before they blow this thread

Trev

Notes:

Guys I am giving away all my corals below is the list

Pink star polyps x1 ( big rock )

Green star polyps x 1 ( small rock )

Green button palys x 2 ( both big rocks )

Cinamon and beige button palys ( small rock )

Pulsing zenia x 2 ( small rock )

Birds nest coral x 1 ( on tile )

Various mushrooms +- 10 some on tiles some on rocks

Green stripped mushroom on tile ( big shroom )

Candy cane coral x 1 ( medium - big rock )

Pin cushion coral

Ricordia coral

Then I have about 12 x zenia frags some are border line colonies or very big frags colors from common green to orange, brown, blue, purple, red and green

Pn I dont have time to post pics and the MASA mods dont seem to like me advertising stuff for free so you guys better hurry up before they blow this thread

Trev

hambug damsel spawning

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 6:34pm CDT by burt

this happend this mornin

g, when i switch on the lights, this is what i saw

Glue perspex

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 5:43pm CDT by Rax123

want to stick perspex to perspex, building a cover for internal over-flow, any ideas what would be the ideal glue that would not be toxic to the live stock.

Wood Base

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 5:27pm CDT by flappy

Hi Guys

I am about to commence construction on my 2.5m by 1m tank.
Please advise where I should be shopping for the wood base.
I am considering marine ply but the prices are shocking.
Are there any viable cost effective alternatives and if so where in Cpt can one get it?

New Video: Preshans Reef

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 5:22pm CDT by preshan

Preshans Reef

Video: Preshans Reef
Category: Tanks
Uploader: preshan
Quote:

Originally Posted by preshan Preshans reef video

full system for sale in P.E: Port Elizabth

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 12:04pm CDT by toppdogg

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

full system for sale in P.E

Location:

Port Elizabth

Shipping or Collection only:

collection / shipping at buyers own risk

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

hey guys
have got a full system for sale

tank 1600(L) x700 (D) x 600(H) gall 11.3mm laminate with full eurobracing
sump 1200 x 450 x 450
on metal stand with black woodern cabinet
price R 3000.00 neg

equipment:

2 x metal halide complete units 150 w DE venture 14 k bulbs R 990.00 ( for both )
2 x led down light moonlights R 100.00 ( for both )
2 x return pumps ( 1 lifetech AP 3500 2500ltrs/ h and 1 resun sp 6600 2800ltrs/h ) R 500.00 for both
1 x DIY skimmer with AP 3500 lifetech pump R 1000.00
1 x resun CL300 chiller max 600ltr tank R 2500.00 neg

or take complete setup for R 6000.00

thats it guys
reason for selling scalling down to smaller cube as time is an issue at the moment

Notes:

-

trev's paired purple tangs

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 10:24am CDT by crispin

hey trev,'
in your thread about MAC quality fish you said that you managed to get a number of purple tangs, and i think you kept two to be introduced into your system, but i am challenging my own memory here i was wondering how those purple tangs you have were getting on. i know you said a mate was taking two and you were keeping two and in recent days there has been lots of livley debate about the aggresiveness of purple tangs when placed together so could you update us how those fish are doing?

id be careful of introducing those fish into a display tank together as regardless of how healthy they are (or often due to increased health) as a pair of purples is likley to fight to the detriment of one. a mac guarentee wont help them if they do fight so keep an eye on them closely and keep us updated will ya.

New Profilux 3 Firmware 5.02f

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 10:21am CDT by vatso

Hi all

the new profilux 3 firmware will be out very soon in the next few days it will be 5.02f the new firmware allows the profilux to send out emails directly. they are still working on putting your probe setting in the email that will work very soon.

with the new firmware there is also a new version of the profilux software.

Will keep you all posted as soon as it's released

Profilux Redox Probe

Posted: July 16th, 2010, 10:18am CDT by vatso

Hi all

Hi all just to let you know that if you have a redox probe it can take up to 4 weeks to measure correctly & that one should recalibrate your probe after the 4 weeks.

if you look at my profilux my probe we reading on the very high side & now it's seems to be back to normal. I still have another 2 weeks before my probe would have reached the 4 week mark.

En-masse killing of Sharks!

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 11:45pm CDT by sean_koekemoer

Very very sad. Please watch these videos on the link:

Japan's Shark Fin Capital, Kesen-numa City | Alex Hofford Photography | Hong Kong China Photographer | Home Portfolio Bio Contact Blog

Neat silicone on tank build

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 9:47pm CDT by Jaco Schoeman

Guys...

Can anyone give me tips on how to silicone panels together, without having it look like my 3yr old did it? I just can not get it right. How do yo make the silicone look even and neat? Must one make those "diamond" shaped scrapers and if so, how?

Also, when building, do you put silicone on the "thickness" of the glass before sticking it to the other panel, or just clamp the panels together and then apply silicone on the inside? And what about the outside?

Thanks for your help in advance...

Nitrate Issue

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 8:48pm CDT by costa

Hi Guys!

I need some help with an irritating nitrate issue that has hounded my tank for
about a month now.

My tank has been up & running since October last year and everything seems to
have gone smoothly until now.
My nitrates have gone up to about 20mg/L. I know that it is not too detrimental
to the fish, but I am worried about my corals in the long-term.

I have been doing regular water changes(+/- 20%) and dosing the tank with
both Microbacter 7 & Reef Biofuel to reduce the nitrates and phosphates.
I have even reduced the feeding to only twice a day.But to no avail.:(

Someone suggested that my problem could be the DSB.Possible?

Water parameters are: Nitrite +/- 0.
Nitrate +/- 20
pH 8.2
Alkalinity 9.5 dKH
Calcium 398
Magnesium 1 200
Sainity +/- 1.025

Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Costa.

First Ever seen in S.A...Coral and Fish (Rare) Landing Tomorrow

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 6:58pm CDT by lanzo

Good Day Guys

We have been waiting for this shment for almost 4 months...it wil finally be landing tomorrow

Dorry Pets will be closed tomorrow from 3pm to prep for the new shipment

Come have a look on saterday...we will be open from 10am until 2pm

We are closed on Sundays....so if you missed us on Saterday then you must come and have a look on Monday

These corals that are coming in is the first time that anyone in South Africa has seen it in our trade....The supplier told me this moring that not even europe has seen some of the LPS/Sps's...there is only 1 collector that can collect these sertain sp. of coral and has only sent it to the U.S and china before.

Ultra A grade Zoa's
A grade Zoa's
B grade Zoa's

Ulra A grade Lord corals
A grade Lord corals
B grade Lord corlas

Ultra A grade Aco's/ milla's / monti's
A grade Acros / milla's / monti's
B Grade Acros's / milla's / monti's

And many many more ...will upload a list of corals coming in over the weekend

Fish:

Scribbel angel
True Scribble
Personifer
True Personifer
Black Headed Puller ( Chromis Klunzingeri)
Blue Hula Fish (Trachinops brauni)
Blue Devil (Predator) (Paraplessiops meleagris)
and many more

Inverts:
Strobus snails
Biscuit starfish
and many more

Have a great day guys
See you over the weekend

p.s for the guys inland and at the coast...we will upload some pictures for you;)
Dorry Pets Cpt wont be landing this shipment

Best Regards
Dorry Pets Group

Dorry Pets Setting the Marine Trend

Urgent help needed Hole in Leather

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 6:21pm CDT by zayd

Hi

Found a hole in my leather yesterday. Any ideas? I have a Chysurus Angel , but have had no problems with it since I got it more than 2 yrs ago.

Thanks

Setup of marine shop in Pta Moreletta Park

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 3:18pm CDT by hennie12

Hi guys in search of 2nd hand metal highlights and skimmers.

pls let me know asap what you have.

Also is there anyone with a coral bed.

looking for reasonbale prices.

asap

hennie

How to get your internal skimmer to skim better

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 2:42pm CDT by vatso

Hi all

I have a TS4 Skimmer with 3 Pumps & was working on my Sump & raising my first compartment where my skimmer use to live & found that by increasing the water level the skimmer did not skim well at all seems to suck air into a pump takes energy!

So if you can get your skimmer / pump just below the water you will be able to suck more air into your skimmer & as such your skimmer will work much better!

My skimmer now is moved one compartment down where the level is nice & low

It's just what I have learnt and have seen many sumps with very high water levels

Vatso

Dymax 3ft Light Unit for sale: Norwood, Johannesburg

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 2:15pm CDT by jumboswart

Hardware for saleThread title:

Dymax 3ft Light Unit

Location:

Norwood, Johannesburg

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

I have a Dymax 2x150W MH with 2 T5 24w 3ft light unit for sale, bought this unit recently but its not going to fit my new 800x800 cube(aesthetically speaking):biggrin:, will hang over the tank by 10cm so will be going for a 2 foot unit.

Price R2500

Notes:

-

Vatso - NP reducing pellets

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 1:37pm CDT by vatso

Hi all

I bought some NP Pellets yesterday & got them running in my reactor - had to put them in a filter bag as they kept escaping :)

So I will take some pics tonight of the pellets & will give feed back on how they work

Transporting a secondhand tank and fish

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 1:04pm CDT by rakabos

So

When u buy some1 else's tank with fish and LR, what is the best way to do it if u dont have a tank at all ?

Idol Marine News

Posted: July 15th, 2010, 11:46am CDT by Bob the (reef)builder

Hi All,

News Flash! ;)

We would like to inform our customers that we will be changing our shop hours on a Saturday to 8am to 2pm.

We have NP reducing pellets,cyclop-eeze and Salifert
test kits in stock.

Yellow tangs,peppermint shrimps,mexican turbo snails
and a wonderful coral assortment.:thumbup:

Cheers for now,
Idol Marine Crew.

can I add a fish to this pico?

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 11:20pm CDT by Dikdaan

Hi ppl
A while back i bought my dad a 7 liter pico...Got LED lighting, some zoa's, polyps and a very very small kenya tree...There is also a peppermint shrimp in there...

Now for my question, is there a fishy that we can add to the tank or is it to small???

I like

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 10:45pm CDT by herkie

I was looking at these not good photos and thought they are not good photos but I still like them.

Leaf Wrasse Type?

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 9:07pm CDT by AfricaOffroad

Some better pics of the wrasse I caught on Saturday.
Lets have your opinions, please on its common and scientific name

Some pictures of my Anemone

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 8:48pm CDT by JvS

Hi

Here is some pictures of my anemone. It has been in my tank for 7 months now.:thumbup:

Cabinet Door Slides

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 8:24pm CDT by Manic

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for some cabinet door slides that will be able to slide open a "door" in front of the tanks cabinet. I tried builders but couldn't find them. This is what they look like:

This is what it should be able to do:

lastlight's 225 reef build - Reef Central Online Community

ID needed

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 6:47pm CDT by FransSny

Got this in the back of the bakkie today...what might it become....

Its 12 mm thick & roughly 700 mm square

Service Exellence

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 6:04pm CDT by dallasg

Been meaning to write this for a while, but i have always received the greatest service from Marco and the The Waterboy and i feel it deserves a hearty mention.

Thanks again Marco!

Picaso Trigger

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 5:53pm CDT by Drk

Can anybody tell me why this fish isn't reef safe?

The Water Boy

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 5:47pm CDT by gMAN

Firstly I'd like to give three cheers to Marco of the Water Boy!!!

Yesterday, I received a package containing my order of N & P Reducing Bio-Pellets, I am yet to state the results as it's only been running for less than 24hrs. Together with the Bio-pellets, I got a dual reactor, 1 for the Bio-Pellets & 1 for carbon. I've heard that running GAC can make a huge difference in the water clarity but boy was I surprised this morning, when I say crystal clear, I mean Swarovski Crystal clear is now what the water in my DT looks like!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

A big thank you Marco for all your efforts in helping us guys in this hobby, keep up the good work and don't stop at what you're doing. :yeahdude:

Sump needed

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 4:40pm CDT by rakabos

Hi guys

I need a sump, 1m at least in length... Any 1? What i would typically want is a complete system with no fish, just a dry system that i can start with. DT to be 1.2m or so...

NeoZeo: My Experience

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 2:18pm CDT by Manic

Hey Everyone,

So with the N-P Reducing Bio Pellets on the market I decided to give them a go. I've been running the full Brightwells NeoZeo systems for 5 months now and decided before I switch over I'll share my experience with the products and the method as a whole.

The Setup

Firstly an introduction to my tank is in order.

Tank Size: 900mm x 900mm x 600mm (Total System Volume: 550L)
Live Rock: 30Kg of fully cured live rock, was running in old system for a year
Base Rock: 27Kg of Carib Sea Base Rock
Substrate: 40Kg Figi Pink Aragonite
In tank flow: Vortech MP40W (Short Pulse Mode), 2 x 5000Lph SunSun, Resun Waver 15000. (In tank turnover 82X)

My sump contained my skimmer, zeo reactor, heaters and return pump. Nothing else.

Skimmer: Orca 135 with enkamet mesh modification (Rated to 1200L, now its only rated to 900L)
NeoZeo Zeolith Reactor (DIY)

There was no dsb or refugium in my sump and my filtration relied solely on the reactor, skimmer and live rock.

Once the tank was filled with water and live rock the NeoZeo method was implemented. The starting procedure for the method was to place 1Kg of zeolith media in to the reactor per 100g of system volume and to start dosing a bacteria strain (MB7) at 15mL/100g every week.

Routine

After two weeks of running the system and pumping the reactor every day or two, the carbon source dosing began. My choosen carbon source was vodka due to the cost of using reef biofuel. The method for dosing vodka is shown below:

0.1ml of vodka per 25 gallons of net water volume per day for 3 days
Days 4 to 7 double the dosage
Each week after, add an additional 0.5ml regardless of tank size
When the NO3/PO4 starts to drop maintain the current dosage
When the NO3/PO4 are undetectable half the dosage

The bacteria strain was dosed every week and the carbon source every night after the lights went out.

In order to maintain the calcium and alkalinity I used Tropic Marine Bio-Calcium, dosed every morning and night.

Water Parameters

Day 14
Salinity - 1.026
PH (Day, Ph Pen) - 8.3
Ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 5ppm
Ca - 430ppm
Mg - 1350ppm
KH - 8
Phosphate - 0.1
Temp - 26 (Varied between 26.5 during the day and 25.5 at night)

Stocking

I read a lot of threads on reef central and came across this article in which corals and fish can be added after two weeks if a zeo method is implemented from the start of the tank.

Initial cycle - just 14 days? - Korallen-Zucht.de

I decided to give it a go and after 14 days, I added around 6 big sps colonies. I started adding fish and inverts after 20 days. I'm glad to report i didn't have any losses.

After 5 months my current stock in the tank is as follows:
9 X Anthias
9 X Blue-Green Chromis
1 X Purple Tang
1 X Fox Face
1 X Spotted Rabbit Fish
1 X Midas Blennie
1 X Six Line Wrass
1 X Maroon Clown
1 X Ebli Angel
1 X Yellow Watchman Goby
2 X Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 X Coral Banded Shrimp
1 X Firecracker Shrimp
1 X Crocea Clam
15-20 SPS Colonies

I didn't want so many fish but I'll get to that later.

2 Months Down The Line

After two months my water parameters all looked perfect. In fact they were too perfect. My nitrates and phosphates were undetectable on two different test kits. All my sps were fading and starting to lose colour. This is when the real hassle of the NeoZeo method began.

In order to rectify the lack of nutrients in the water I needed to start dosing almost everything. I started with amino acids, Iodine, Vitamins, KoralColor and magnesium. This is when I started getting fed up with the whole zeo method. What started as a simple dosing regime of adding vodka, bacteria and calcium ended up as a complicated chemistry lesson every night. The dosing took me over an hour to complete every night.

All the dosing still didn't solve my problems and thus the need to add more fish in order to add nutrients to the system. This worked for a while or until the bacteria caught up.

4 Months On

After 4 months my system looked better than ever. The nutrients were low and my corals were growing nicely. I added a few more sps and the clam. This threw everything off once again. The low nutrients coupled with a high calcium and alkalinity demand played havoc with my systems stability. I was getting STN on the bases of all my sps. This was mainly due to the fact that dosing calcium and alkalinity in the morning and night didn't provide enough stability to my system. More dosing was in order, I started doubling the dose on the amino acids and starting dosing restor. I also purchased a calcium reactor to provide more stability.

Now

Since the addition of the calcium reactor the STN has stopped and the corals are encrusting over the dead bases. My nitrates and phosphates are still undetectable. I still dose everything that has been previously mentioned, which is time consuming and expensive to say the least.

Problems Experienced

Brown Slime on Glass: I attribute this to the MB7 bacteria source. I switched to SeaChem stability and this fixed all my problems.

STN: This was due to the low alkalinity in the tank and the overall instability of the alkalinity. The new calcium reactor sorted this out.

SPS Colours Fading: Extremely low nutrients may cause the corals colours to fade. This problem was fixed by heavily dosing amino acids and adding more fish.

Now what everyone has been waiting for:

Pictures

Tank at day 14:

Tank a month ago:

SPS Growth
Growth tip a month ago:

Growth tip now:

SPS Colour

Acro Frag a month ago:

Acro Frag now:

5ft System for sale: Jhb - Weltevreden

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 2:05pm CDT by Titanse

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

5ft System for sale

Location:

Jhb - Weletvreedn

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi Guys.

Its with my deepest regrets and a sad heart that I have to sell my system.

It is a 5ft system, wood cabinate and stand. Sump (3.5ft) and t5 lighting

Has 3 power heads all mid / small sized, 1 Jebo skimmer and halea 6300 (i think) return pump

About 50 kg lr

been running for about 1 year, but has ghd problem some reason.

All my fish too

1 x pair of tomato clowns
1 x pair bi-colour chromis
1 x catfish
1 x cleaner wrasse
1 x cleaner shrimp
1 x dancing shrimp
1 x Yellow tang
1 x Purple tang
1 x Cardinal Bangaii
1 x Pjyama bangaii
Couple of hermits... think 3 or 4
1 x large toadstool

If there is anything else I'll let you know

I would like to sell the complete system for R2000

If I sell live stock indiviually it will be priced accordingly.

Thanks

Notes:

Photos to follow soon.

1500w pure sine wave inverter cheap!!!

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 1:58pm CDT by brettb2020

was in builders warehouse at the cresent by gateway this morning and the have these inverters priced to clear for R1299! was R8000. they are pure sine wave and run on 24v. its just the inverter, no batteries. you can run your whole tank and much more with this thing.

just thought i should let you know:-)

Various hardware for sale for sale: Parklands, Cape Town

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 1:34pm CDT by Jaak

Hardware for saleThread title:

Various hardware for sale

Location:

Parklands, Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

Collectgion

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Refractometer@ R750:

Reefmaster plus RO/DI Unit @ R750:

300W Jager Heater @ R200:

Aqua H20 4000l/h return pump @ R250:

Notes:

-

Urgent help needed Green Star Polyps not opening

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 1:33pm CDT by SaltyReef

Hi All,

My green star polyps are not opening at all over the last 3 days!

All other corals in the tank including sun chili and frogspawn are opening without an issue.

The only thing i have changed in the last few weeks is that i added a DIY Carbon Reactor.

Is this normal behaviour?
should i wait or change something?

Various corals for sale: Parklands, Cape Town

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 1:25pm CDT by Jaak

Various corals for saleCommon Names:

LR, Ricordea, Mushroom & Rhodactis

Scientific Names:

-

Size of coral

-

How long have you had the corals?

-

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Your location.

Parklands, Cape Town

Price:

Various

Photo's:

This Mushroom is R50-00.

This Green Rhodactis is R100:

This Ricordea is R100-00:

The LR is R60 - R120 depending on type of rock. There's bali, tonga branch, etc...

Notes:

-

downsides to small return pump?

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 11:58am CDT by ziyaadb

Are there any major issues with having a small return pump? I was testing my system for leaks last night and the sound of the water gushing over the overflow was a bit too much as i have a room close to the tank where someone sleeps. Its a Lound noise and i was contemplating changing the return pump from the 2200Lph eheim to something smaller maybe 1200lph so that a smaller amount goes down causing less noise. your thoughts? I tried using the ballvalve that we have on the system to raise the level in the overflow but that just caused issues.
system is 455L.

A question on filters

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 10:32am CDT by rakabos

Hi

So i have a question with regards to filters...

If I have a 3 to 4 foot or equivalent sized tank what kind of filter is advisable. I don't want to do a sump. I have read that with a good clean up crew under gravel filtering is not needed. So will en external filter hanging over the side do the trick?

I appreciate any advice on what a suitable solution would be for this setup, bearing in mind i dont want to spend an arm and a leg. The tank will have LR, 8 or so fish and a coral or 5

Cheers

Various corals for sale: Johannesburg

Posted: July 14th, 2010, 9:56am CDT by gaboon

Various corals for saleCommon Names:

Various SPS corals

Scientific Names:

-

Size of coral

Various

How long have you had the corals?

6 months

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Your location.

Johannesburg

Price:

-

Photo's:

Trying to make space so got some SPS corals up for grabs

1. Firstly, a large green monti, probably 30cm in diameter: R900, I'll throw in the brownish monti behind it for free. Its the same as the green one so will colour up.

Not too sure on the names of the next 3...

2. This colony is bigger than fist size: R350
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3. This one is about fist size: R350
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4. Got 3 of these frags, mounted. 1 small and 2 large R80 and R120 each respectively
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5. Got a few blue acro frags in the frag tank but they are brown atm and unmounted, roughly 5cm in height: R120

Also got a red plating monti, about 20cm in diameter: R500

Thats it for now, collection only please

Notes:

-

how to remove the posphate

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 12:37am CDT by edyta2382

hello everyone i got a phosphate problem it's a bit high at the moment 0.5 ppm
i was adding a phosphate remover and nothing still the same recently i bought
some live rock the live rock was covered in green hair algae i regret i didnt clean
the rock now the hair is taking over even my old liver rock .
no3 0ppm
dkh 10 ppm
calcium 440 ppm
phos 0.5 ppm
ph 8.2
sal 1.024

MAC supplied Livestock is there a difference

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 11:19pm CDT by Trev

You better dam believe it, there is a massive difference in MAC supplied livestock.
This evening I bought 4 purple tangs from a MAC approved retailer and the results are simply mind blowing. I arrived home and started dripping the fish at a slow drip rate for 45min followed by a rapid drip rate for 15min and the a rest period of 30 min in the new water so a total acclimatizing period of 90min. Following this I introduced the fish to their quaranteen tanks and the first thing I noticed was that there was no color fade at all. The second thing was that nether fish went and parked in a corner or hid away anywhere instead they immediately started swimming up and down as if they had been in these tanks for months and the confidence of the fish is amazing they swim with real confidence. Now here is the mind sizzling thing that really made the worlds difference and prompted me to write this as this set MAC live stock a mile apart from any other live stock I have ever dealt with.

While dripping these new tangs I fed the fish in the main display some Ocean Nutrition spirulina flakes and as usual some of it went down the overflow, I had decided not to QT these new tangs at a lower salin level but rather at the reef tanks salin of 1026 this means that the QT tanks arent running separately but are plumbed into the reef tanks sump ( I can shut off if I want to run lower salin ) So what happened is that some of the spirulina flakes went into the sump and then down the overflow which feeds the QT tanks and obviously settled on the bottom of the QT tanks. I saw this and it pissed me off actually cause I thought dam I will have to suck it out as it will just rot. No flipping ways as after about 4 min in the QT tanks these tangs where eating the flakes off the bottom, I was shocked to say the least as I have QTd some many soft fish in the past but never ever have I seen or heard of this and infect if I never saw it I would not have believed it. This is what really showed me the difference in MAC supplied fish

Trev

Vortech parts (again)

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 10:30pm CDT by Tim S

Hi Frans,

Can you order me the following Vortech spares please;

1 x ceramic bearing (new shape)
2 x filter sponges

When are you getting your next shipment?

Tim

Angels and macro algae

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 8:44pm CDT by Undergravel

Would 2 or 3 different species of angels destroy Ulva and caulerpa growth in a 2m tank.If I tried to replicate a Cape Vidal reef with loads of butterflies,wrasse,goldies,damsels and a few angels and the rocks covered in macro algae,I don't want it to end up bare.Anyone tried this?

Some nice Discus for sale.

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 8:11pm CDT by Singularity

Hi Guys, some discus for sale...

Blue Scorpion Pair R2300
Tiger Sanke Skin Pair R2300
Albino x 2 R1000 ea
Spotted Snake Skin x 1 R700
Checkerboard Pigeon x 1 R700
Red Golden Diamond x 1 R1200
Leopard x 1 R700
Red Turq x 1 R1000
All fish are 11cm+

OK, these are some group shots of the actual fish, but if you want a clear pic of a single strain just google, and click on the SimplyDiscus link...

Invader snails

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 5:36pm CDT by mandarin

I collected some zoas from North coast a few months back, (valid permit) a few days ago i found a crazy looking snail on one of the zoas, white and green of colour and all curled like a boere wors, about 10mm across. I dumped it in the DSB but yesterday i found another one on one of the other zoa, same species.
Now i think i've got trouble coming my way, i looked in the Jan/Febr 2010 Coral mag and here is the same oke, HELIACUS VARIEGATUS, loves zoas, if i found two there must be more. This must be bad luck for me, any advise.

Urgent help needed Tempory home reqquired

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 4:42pm CDT by clown

Hi All,

I got a 20cm convict blenny and Midas blenny, tamato clown and shrimps(2) . I'm busy setting up a new tank and I need some time to cycle the water and get it going (I am butting excisting mature water in and I will add the boyu water as well) and The tank boyu is to small to look after every one.

Is there any one that can help me to keep them just for 3 weeks in Cape Town please.
My sold tank will be collected in two weeks time.

I will collect it from you as soon as I can. Water must be good for them. :(

24G JBJ Nano Cube info please

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 4:03pm CDT by Jaco Schoeman

Guys, I have a few questions that I am hoping you can help me with regarding a 24g JBJ Nano cube... :thumbup:

As most of you know, I am not new to this hobby, but I am new to the "limited" designs of the cubes...

Now:

1) What is the best form of filtration to use in these guys? I know many will say remove the bioballs and ceramics, others will say keep em. I personally know that DSB's work, and the more biological IMO the better. So do I just fill the back with DSB material?

2) Lighting upgrade: is it neccesary for keeping softies and maybe a hammer coral or torch? I have not seen the light intensity of these JBJ's, so cant comment on it...

3) Skimmer? I am used to doing weekly water changes, so doing 20% a week is not at all an issue for me. But... that said, is a skimmer a must here?

4) Drilling / modding? If need be, do you think that one must rather get a below tank sump with DSB, skimmer etc? I know this wont hurt to do it, but is it needed, and how possible is it? I would like to keep the stand standard JBJ spec.

5) Rear chambers...? If I do decide to go with a "Rear DSB" on it, can anyone tell me what % more or less would that DSB make out compared to total system footprint? In other words what size DSB are we looking at if you go that route?

6) Liverock as filtration method...? Is it better to go with LR in the rear chamber as filration metod?

Sorry guys, I am feeling like a newb asking all these questions;), but I do not have the tank yet and do not know it really, so anyone that have had them could please help me out...

SMS driven automatic Controller/relay thingie

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 2:04pm CDT by amalick

I found this by chance while browsing through a popular mechanics magazine.

[www.autobleep.com]

Basically it allows for the remote control and monitoring of up to 8 devices via using an ordinary cell phones sms capabilities. I leave it to all the DIY junkies to consider all the opportunities that this may present us reef-automation junkies.

Put to correct use the options on this are endless and best of all its LOCAL

LOCAL IS LEKKER

Anemones ... high nitrate

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 1:55pm CDT by badbiker

From all the threads in most of the forum are mentioned that the anemones shall be kept in low nitrate and matured water. Last month I was monitoring 2 anemones from LFS. yesterday I bought both of them. So I thought I will test LFSs water actually I was looking what nitrate level they maintain. so I did the test and the result was surprising >>>>>nitrate was 100mg/l <<<<<<<<

[/URL]
My Q for Experts

How did anemones survived in very high nitrate water for more than 1 month and they are in good health ??

[/URL]

[/URL]

happy anemones

Begginer

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 1:37pm CDT by Gerald.A.D.Lucas-Farley

Hello to one and all, In the last few weeks I have decided to add a marine aquarium to my existing freshwater tropical Aquaria. So I am open to all the advice I can get, of a constructive nature. I live in the Philippines so I have quite a wide variety if fish, invertabrates and rocks available to me. All I need now is to understand how to set up and manage my marine tank. The tank is 8ft long 15inches wide and 30inches deep, it holds approximately 700litres and my intention is to set it up and just put rocks and sand with an UGF and let it filter for about a month before I introduce anything. So I look forward to comments and advice. Cheers Gerald.

Coral and live rock

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 12:47pm CDT by rakabos

Hi

Once live rock is in the tank, what is the process of getting new coral to graft onto it?

I have no clue on the process so any advice is greatly appreciated. Also if one buys a secondhand established tank with fish/coral etc what is the process to move the fish from one house to another in the same tank or is it not possible?

40 Year Old Tank

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 12:39pm CDT by SchyffS

Hi All, i found this article, refered to me by a freind, i cant beleive the success of this dudes tank, i think he rubs stones together to keep it going ;)

I think that with the internet and forums such as these we loose site of the passion of the hobby. We copy anything and everything that looks cool without understanding how it works. No doubt automation is everyones ideal but the simplicity and power of nature cannot be under estimated. Simulate nature cause it has been perfected. The story below is about understanding what we are doing and how it affects our tanks.

A lesson for new and old.

Myself, i have been designing my new tank for the last 2 years and everytime there is a new craze i start rethinking my design to accomodate it. Our tanks should evolve and allowed to settle in. Changes must be made slowly as it has a major knock on effect to the delicate ecosystem that we control.

Happy reading and hope its useful.

Reefkeeping Magazine - Paul Baldassanoâs Reef - 40 Years in the Making

Begginer confusion and lotsa fun!

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 12:08pm CDT by Shyam

Hi All

I'm Shyam and quite the beginner to reef aquariums. However I have learnt a lot, esp on the patience bit :)

Bought my 540 lt tank last year September (2nd hand) and 1st thing I noticed was that, when filled with water (tap), there appeared dark and light areas at the joins. Decided that the best was to get the tank apart and properly re-sealed before setting up, despite my eagerness and impatience.

Reasearch on filtration then revealed general consensus that the sump-tank filtration was about the best system for marine tanks, esp if you want a lot of activity... another hurdle, as the tank did not have an overflow... sent my tank for mods and added an overflow on the rear corner, hole at the bottom, and built 2 nice sump tanks...

Took all the necessary precautions... ran the system for a week on tap water to test system for leaks etc... worked well... then added RO water and a good quality salt, heated to 24 degrees, and connected lighting... added 10kg cured live rock.. always careful to avoid any contamination....

Thats where I am now! I tested the water after a week at a leading store who found the salinity fine and the ammonium, nitrates and nitrite levels close to zero... advised me to run like tjis for another week before I add any fish...

My live rock already has some life forms... was worried this morning when I saw worm-like creatures on them, but now know that they are bristle worms that are actually useful to marine aquatics...

Quite excited to move on, and happy to be part of this forum!

Wish me luck...lol

cup O' DSB needed

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 11:54am CDT by SaltyReef

Hi All,

Is there anyone in the midrand area that might be keen on sponsoring a cup of sand from their mature DSB.

Mine has been going for about 4 months and there are only a few pods in it.

Please help!!

Free Grean star frags in Benoni

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 10:59am CDT by SKnight

Free Green star frags in Benoni, but you need to frag for yourself.
I have two large rocks covered and they are spreading to fast even off the rocks
if you are interested please let me know:slayer:

Let's Do This Again!!

Posted: July 13th, 2010, 8:59am CDT by Tiger

Hi... .:wave2:

After carefull planning and consideration I decided on a different tank build thus I started a new thread as it will no longer be a cube with a 360 degree viewing angle.

My plan is as follow:

Tank Dimensions - Length 120cm x Width 150cm x Height 60cm = 1080 Litres

I would like to build everything myself as we (Me and Lanzo) are planning some new inventions with this baby!!;)

I actually don't want to say to much, but will post progress pics so you can see for yourselves. I actually get "chicken meat" just thinking about it!!!!!:razz:

2m Marine fish tank For Sale !!!

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 12:22am CDT by JP de Villiers

Hi Guys
Im selling my Marine Fish Tank because we are doing renovations
and dont have space for it anymore :(

Tank 2000mm X 600mm X 700mm
Sump 1500mm X 500mm X 500mm
Including 3 Punps, Heater, etc...
On a wood Cabinet with wood Canopy

It is a URGENT SALE
Im wanting R4000 for everything.

Hole Drilling

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 9:28pm CDT by poiromaniax

Hey guys,

Is there anybody out there who can come drill a 50mm hole for me?

I can pay you with a frag or two?

Thanks! :thumbup:

How much LR?

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 8:56pm CDT by Evo R

Hi Guys

This is just a little consensus im doing to find out 1.) how much kg LR is needed minimum for adiquite filtraision. eg. 20kg for a 4ft tank. and eg. 100kg on the same size would be over kill.

2.) on say a 4ft,how much LR would i need to make either a LR wall that covers the whole back of the tank and/or to make two small islands with LR.
Are their any pro's or con's RE the two differnt scaping ideas?

Thanx guys.

My Little "DIY" carbon / PO4 Reactor

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 7:52pm CDT by vatso

here is a reactor I arranged from a land far far away - it's 15cm X 65cm high

Is a Copperband Reef safe ?

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 7:07pm CDT by amalick

Hi Guys

Managed to get myself a copperband, and no, before you ask its not to manage aptasia.

I just like the fish:yeahdude:. I managed to ween him onto bloodworm and in between he is even taking flakes and pellets:thumbup:. He is in my qt at the moment and will probably go into my DT in a few weeks if all goes well.

THe problem is that after following a few threads I'm starting to worry that this fellow may just NOT be reef safe. I know each fish is unique, but what have some of your experiences been with the copperband in a mainly LPS reef ?

My worries for for my fan worms, coco worms and shrimp etc..

water change

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 6:48pm CDT by zunaid

hi everyone

please help. i started a marine tank about a year ago. over time the tank has deveopled a lot of red algae. i decided to do a 50% water change last week. i removed all the rock and gave in a good scrubbing. (not sure if it was the right thing to do?)now 2 days after the tank has been topped up again and all rocks looking clean, the nitrate and nitrte levels are sky high. i only have 2 clowns 2 damsels, some snails and a cardinal in the tank. the fish look ok. but i am wooried about the levels. my tank is fairly large (about 800lts). i have a sump filter with a skimmer. i did not change the filter media when i did the water change. i would like to eventually put in "aggresive" type fish only (lions, clown trigger. etc). i had not much luck with corals and invertebrates. (wasted thousands of rands).i am an only a starter so if anyone can advise and help i would appreciate. tks

Returning to Marine

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 6:29pm CDT by ThaneF

Hi Guys,

Once again I am starting a tank, been a couple of years and wow, things have changed.
Bought a Red Sea MAX 130D, really impressed with the build quality, thought that I go this route this time.
Just started filling the tank and salt, next step live rock... and small pieces available in the roodepoort area?
Hope to chat with you all :yeahdude:

New guy getting ready to come home

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 6:15pm CDT by iforeman

Hiya All

My name is Ian Foreman and I have been away from home too long now (16 years gone). I currently live in Ireland but we are planning to come home next Aug/Sept.

I have not kept any fish since I left home as we have moved country's 4 times already. I am looking into what (if anything) I need to get while I am in Europe/USA before I move back.

I will be doing a lot of reading in the future and hopefully be able to contribute something worthwhile.

Talk to you as time goes by.

Ian

Getting the best colours from your corals

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 5:57pm CDT by Dane

Have been wondering about what bulbs to get now that I'm going T5 and came across this very interesting article... Thought I would share

Here is the link: ReefWorks - Obtaining The Best Colours From Your Corals

And the text pulled this off Reefworks, so that its stored on this site.

Obtaining The Best Colours From Your Corals

Introduction

How many of us have bought a brightly coloured coral from an aquarium shop only for it to slowly loose its stunning colours and turn brown over the following weeks in our home aquarium? Occasionally the reverse might be true, we buy a dull brown colony and much to our delight it slowly develops in to a bright green or pink coral under high intensity lighting.
The reasons that certain corals appear certain colours and the factors that affect coral colouration are diverse and rather complicated. In this article I will look at some of the basic principles that govern colouration in corals and what we can do to obtain the most vivid colours from our corals.

Factors effecting coral colouration

There are many factors that effect coral colouration, light intensity, light spectrum, nutrient levels, trace element concentrations, zooxanthellae, fluorescent pigments, non-fluorescent pigments, the list goes on. But first we need to understand a little bit about a corals biology before we can understand the role that each of these things has on colouration.

Zooxanthellae

The majority of corals that we keep in aquaria have a symbiotic relationship with algal cells known as zooxanthellae, it is these algal cells that photosynthesise and provide the coral with nutritional compounds such as glucose, glycerine and amino acids that are passed from the algal cells to the corals own tissue cells. The zooxanthellae themselves gain nutrients that they need to photosynthesise directly from the sea water such as ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, carbon dioxide and phosphate as well as metabolic waste products from the corals own cells. These are used in the formation of the previously mentioned sugars and amino acids that are then passed on to the coral. The coral uses these nutrients and produces waste products that are recycled back to the zooxanthellae to be used again in photosynthesis.
There is a balance that needs to be maintained between the coral and the zooxanthellae in terms of the amount of photosynthesis that occurs within the corals tissues. Too many zooxanthellae and too high a rate of photosynthesis can be just as damaging to the coral at too little. It is this adjusting of the concentration of zooxanthellae by the coral that is a major factor in the colouration of corals.
Zooxanthellae are all brown or golden-brown, they do not exist in any other colour and this is why most corals are brown.

Fluorescent pigments

Fluorescence is the term used to describe the behaviour of an object that absorbs light of one particular wavelength (colour) and emits it at a different wavelength. This change in emitted light is due to changing energy levels of photons, the energy levels of photons is related to it's wavelength which we perceive as colour. Fluorescent pigments absorb light of a specific wavelength and then emit light in a wavelength that is longer than the original one. This fluorescence has a large effect on the perceived colour of a coral particularly when the coral is illuminated by light that is inclined to produce fluorescence such as actinics or high Kelvin rated metal halide lamps.

Non-fluorescent colour pigments.

As the name suggests these pigments do not visibly fluoresce, these include the non-fluorescent pink and blue coral pigments known as pocilloporans and purple/red pigments found in some corals.
The overall colour that your corals will appear is a direct relationship between the abundance of zooxanthellae and fluorescent and non-fluorescent pigments that may or may not be present.

Lighting

Lighting is probably the single biggest factor in terms of coral colouration. It is not only the intensity of light that is important but also the colour or concentration of certain wavelengths of light.
Light is composed of various different wavelengths and each wavelength corresponds to a particular colour. The human eye cannot detect all of these wavelengths and those that fall below the levels detectable by the human eye are known as ultraviolet light and those that are above the upper detectable levels are known as infrared light. The wavelengths that we can see range from 380 nm (nm stands for nano meters which is the unit of measurement for wavelength) to 780nm.
It is important for marine aquarists to have an understanding of ultraviolet light as well as visible light. Ultraviolet light from 100 to 400 nm is divided into three different groups:
UV-A: This is light that falls in the wavelengths between 315 - 400nm, UV-A will pass through normal silicate glass.
UV-B: This is light that falls in the wavelengths between 280-315nm. It is UV-B that will cause sunburn. UV-B will not pass through normal silicate glass and is absorbed quickly in water, however in crystal clear waters of coral reefs both AV-A and UV-B can penetrate over 30m deep.
UV-C: This is light that falls in the wavelengths between 100 - 280nm. UV-C is very harmful to living tissue and is the type of light that is used in UV sterilizers. UV-C is rapidly absorbed by the earths atmosphere. It should be noted that UV-C is given off by single-ended metal halide lamps but it is absorbed by the filters used on the bulbs and cover glass.
Most metal halide lamps also produce some UV-A and UV-B radiation whereas fluorescent tubes usually do not.
As we know that coral reefs are exposed to high levels of UV-A and UV-B particularly in shallow water it follows that the corals have come up with ways to protect themselves from being burnt. It has been known for a long time that corals can produce a sunscreen to protect themselves from UV radiation, the most important of these that have been found are known as S-320 or mycosporine-like amino acids. It was thought that it is these sunscreens that are produced in corals in shallow waters that give corals in these areas their bright colours, however it is known that these pigments are transparent to UV-A and rather are used to block UV-B radiation and these wavelengths are below those that are known to induce colouration. However there does seem to be some disagreement on this point as Dunlap and Chalker (1986) found three S-320 compounds in Acropora formosa which absorb light between 310 and 340nm and claim that these compounds are seen in corals as violet or fluorescent pigments.
Metal halide lamps produce peaks of light in certain UV wavelengths, for example mercury used in metal halide bulbs produces a peak at 365nm, while thallium and scandium produce peaks at 378nm, 391nm and 393nm. It is known that these wavelengths induce colouration in in certain corals, so you might think to yourself that it is a good idea not to shield your metal halide lamps and expose your corals to as much UV light as you can to help your corals colour up. Unfortunately this is not the case, it has been shown that UV radiation in the wavelengths also known to induce colouration in corals can result in photoinhibition when exposed at the levels given off by metal halide bulbs. Photoinhibition is the process when photosynthesis in the coral ceases and the coral can end up being starved of nutrients from the zooxanthellae.
Light of 400nm is the lower limit at which photosynthesis can occur, light at wavelengths lower than this is known to cause chloroplast damage. It is thought that the UV-A light that corals receive is channelled through photosynthetic pathways that re-emit the light at longer wavelengths which can then be used by the zooxanthellae for photosynthesis and as mentioned previously causes the corals to fluoresce. By using this system as well as sunscreen pigments and UV resistant strains of zooxanthellae the coral is able to live and photosynthesis under exposure to UV radiation.
However, there are limits to what a coral can tolerate and as previously mentioned photoinhibition should be of concern to hobbyists. Photoinhibition can occur from overexposure across a range of wavelengths and not just from UV light. When zooxanthellae photosynthesise they produce hydrogen peroxide which is harmful to living tissues, to counteract this the coral itself produces an enzyme which neutralises the hydrogen peroxide. If the rate of photosynthesis by the zooxanthellae is too high, there is a sudden increase in the number of zooxanthellae or the coral is not able to produce enough of the neutralising enzymes to combat the hydrogen peroxide then the coral will react by expelling some or all of it's zooxanthellae. The expulsion of some of the algal cells may seem like a benefit if we are trying to obtain bright colours in our corals but usually in this situation the coral is weakened, growth slows and the production of colour pigments fades as the coral becomes stressed.
Conversely, if a coral has the light intensity that it is exposed to reduced then the coral will respond by producing more zooxanthellae to meet the demands of the hosts tissues. So if we take a coral from a high light intensity environment like a coral reef and then place it in an aquarium with much lower light intensities then the net rate of photosynthesis by the zooxanthellae will decrease. In response to the lower levels of nutrients that the coral is receiving from the zooxanthellae, the coral encourages more zooxanthellae to be produced by releasing more metabolic waste products resulting in more photosynthesis and the coral recovering it's required nutrients from the zooxanthellae and causing the coral to turn brown.
There is another aspect to this process as well. On coral reefs there is a huge abundance of zooplankton and phytoplankton that a coral can capture and utilise as an energy source. If this coral is placed in an aquarium where the levels of prey abundance are much lower then the coral needs to get it's nutrition from elsewhere, as a result the coral increases the numbers of zooxanthellae that it holds in it's tissues, regains it's nutritional requirements and has turned brown.
Another factor effecting the abundance of zooxanthellae in a corals tissues is the amount of dissolved organic matter that occurs in the water. Naturally the levels of these nutrients in the sea is very low and the coral subsidises what the zooxanthellae can receive from the surrounding water by providing them with waste products from it's metabolic processes. If the concentration of dissolved organic matter in the water is greatly increased as in the case of our aquarium water then the zooxanthellae have ample nutrients to grow and multiply inside the coral and hence mask colours. Take this abundance of nutrients too high and the coral cannot deal with all the photosynthetic processes going on in it's tissues and it will begin to expel the zooxanthellae and bleach.
Zooxanthellae have a lower light limit known as the compensation point. This is the point at which photosynthesis by the zooxanthellae equals respiration by the zooxanthellae. If light intensities are too low then the zooxanthellae will not be able to pass on enough of the photosynthetic products or consume enough of the corals metabolic waste products to enable the coral to grow and thrive.
At the other end of the scale zooxanthellae also have what is known as the saturation point, this is the point at which the rate of photosynthesis is at it's maximum and any increase in light intensity will not increase the rate of photosynthesis. The saturation point of corals will vary from species to species and also the environment that they have adapted to, generally the saturation point of many species of coral will not exceed 300 µmol·m²·second. This is the level of light that is typically achieved 6" under the water surface directly under a 250w 10K metal halide bulb that is mounted 8" above the surface of the water. However, the saturation point of many corals is often reached well below this light intensity and exposure to intensities above the saturation point will lead to photoinhibition and the expulsion of zooxanthellae and the weakening and paleing of a corals colours, often resulting in death.
As you can see the key to good colouration in corals is very much a sliding scale dependent on the light intensity, light spectrum and nutrient load of the water. The key is to get the correct balance of all of these things and maintain it there.
However the story does not end here and there are a few more things to consider.

Trace Elements and Other Factors

Trace elements are widely proclaimed to be able to greatly enhance the colours of your corals by many aquarium additive manufacturers, however the role of many trace elements in corals is poorly understood but there is a little information that is starting to make it's way forward. Although it is by no means conclusive there is some evidence pointing towards iodide playing a role in transitioning apparent colouration in corals. There are certain genetically engineered variants of yellow fluorescent proteins that have shown to be affected by certain halides such as fluoride, iodide, chloride and bromine. Conversely certain pocilloporans (non-fluorescing colour pigments) extracted from montipora species have been shown to be insensitive to iodide additions. It is also known that certain trace elements facilitate enzymatic and photosynthetic reactions and so could end up playing an important role in coral colouration, however much more research needs to be done in this field. But before you go tipping loads of trace elements into your aquarium in the hope that the colours of your corals will improve, don't forget that for the majority of aquariums that have a low to moderate coral density, the demand for most trace elements is met by regular water changes.
Interestingly, some research by Dana Riddle and Andy Amussen in the late 1990's seemed to show that lower alkalinity levels can lead to loss of colour pigmentation in some corals. Of the ten systems that they were experimenting on, they allowed the alkalinity in four of the systems to drop to levels of 7dKH and noticed that many of the sps colours faded. They then used alkalinity buffers in these systems to quickly raise the dKH back up to 10. They found that some corals intensified their pigmentation over night while in others colour returned over a few days.
In recent years there has been a move towards reef systems that have very low nutrient levels in the water, Fauna Marin and Prodibio are two brands that have been quite popular here in the UK. These systems work by providing the filtration bacteria with an extra carbon source to increase their population size and efficiency at removing nitrates and phosphates from the water. This technique is combined with regular additions of trace elements and amino acids. The system clearly works in terms of reducing nitrates and phosphates and as a result of the lower nutrient concentrations in the water there are less 'fertilisers' available for use by the zooxanthellae and their concentrations drop and allow the fluorescent and non-fluorescent pigments to show through. The addition of trace elements ensures a good supply of those elements needed for photosynthetic and metabolic processes and the addition of amino acid provides the building blocks that the coral may use for various protein, enzyme and pigment synthesis. These additives should however be used carefully, although nitrates and phosphates in excess may cause browning of corals they are essential in low levels. The levels of nitrate in natural reef waters are too low to maintain the biodiversity of corals that occur on reefs, the zooxanthellae must be subsidised with metabolic waste products from the coral to make up the deficit. If the levels of metabolic waste products that a coral is passing to zooxanthellae is too low then in aquariums incorporating ultra low nutrient systems the zoxanthellae may starve leading to the death of the coral. It is likely that the amino acid supplements incorporated in these additives are taken up directly by the coral, used in various metabolic activities and enable the coral to provide the zooxanthellae with necessary waste products in an environment that is otherwise devoid of nutrients.

There is no short answer to obtaining the best colours in your corals, as we have seen lighting is a major factor. It is known that certain wavelengths particularly in the blue part of the spectrum stimulate some fluorescent pigments. Increasing light intensity will cause the reduction in zooxanthellae abundance and hence colour pigments will become more apparent, however under light intensities that exceed a corals saturation point metabolic activity by the coral will decrease, colours will pale and in extreme cases the coral will bleach. High levels of nutrients such as nitrates will cause an increase in the concentration of zooxanthellae which will mask colours. Maintaining low levels of nutrients will reduce the number of zooxanthellae that occur but under these circumstances if a coral cannot supply the remaining zooxanthellae with enough metabolic waste products derived from prey capture or amino acid uptake then the zooxanthellae will not be able to support the coral and it will starve as well.
There is some evidence that trace elements are necessary for pigment production, they are certainly required for many metabolic and photosynthetic processes and hence will have an impact on perceived colour, similarly there is some evidence pointing to alkalinity effecting colouration.
The correct level of lighting combined with good maintenance in the form of water changes and filtration will usually sustain good colouration in most aquariums. Regular water changes will provide the required trace elements and corals will be able to gain necessary amino acids and other nutrients from your fish waste and other foods offered. In aquariums that are heavily stocked with corals then trace element and amino acid supplementation may be required. The new ultra low nutrient systems are showing some impressive results in coral colour, however we have seen that the health of corals is a delicate balance resulting from many factors and as such any changes that you make to your aquarium in an attempt to improve colour should be made very gradually.

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/07/12/mr'

mr

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 5:12pm CDT by zunaid

hi

is there anyone out there that can help maintain my tank. i am based in lenasia. what do they charge? tks

Price request

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 4:43pm CDT by Dikdaan

Hi all I need a price on the following:
Aquamedic Turbofloter 1000 skimmer with Oceanrunner 2500 l puimp, in very good condition

specials - new products

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 4:19pm CDT by The Waterboy - Marco

what a good day......check out all the new products we have in stock!!!!
specials

N-P pellets..............500ml.............R 450.00

giesemann t5 tubes are here

2ft
aquablue +...................R195.00
actinic +..................R 195.00 (blue)
pure actinic................R 225.00 (purple)
aqua pink.................R 255.00

3ft
aquablue +...................R210.00
actinic +..................R 210.00(blue)
pure actinic................R 240.00(purple)
aqua pink.................R 270.00

4ft
aquablue +...................R230.00
actinic +..................R 230.00(blue)
pure actinic................R 265.00(purple)
aqua pink.................R 300.00

rowa phos 500ml..................R 520.00

prodibio
bio-digest..............12 vials.............R 220.00
30 vials.............R 370.00

bio-optim..............12 vials.............R 220.00
30 vials............R 370.00

refractometer - automatic temperature compensation
in hard case
R700.00

inline ph meter, with probe and transformer
R 750.00

more to follow

Interesting article on Chiton

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 3:52pm CDT by SaltyReef

"Animals with metallic teeth" All about chitons (Phylum: Mollusca; Class: Polyplacophora)by Bevan Pank It was a typically warm, windless morning in March and the clear waters of False Bay were calm. Children from all over South Africa had gathered on the pristine beach at Buffels Bay near Cape Point in the National Park. Led by two conservation officials, they had come to put classroom theory on the marine aspect into practice. Among their lessons was a "treasure hunt" in the rock-pools, whereby each team was given several cards with clues in poetic form to identify a particular animal. One of the most intriguing was as follows:

I am one of the oldest sea creatures,
Plates on my body are large features.
I sometimes have tufts on my back; My colour is grey, quite often black.

Origin

The facilitator had described the chiton, a marine invertebrate so strange that it even has some teeth capped with magnetite - an iron oxide! Scientists believe that some 500 million years ago during the late Cambrian Period, it diverged from the main line of evolution. This is because it is very different from other molluscs in the structure of its shell, presence of multiple gills and yet lack of sensory tentacles. Furthermore, its poorly developed head is so concealed beneath the shell as to suggest blindness.
Sensors

In fact, at the very least, chitons have numerous eyes of sorts known as "esthetes". These are vertical canals with capped sensory terminals on the shell. One foreign species - Lepidochitona cinerea - has been found to have 1750 per square millimetre of its shell surface! Best sighted among the approximately 500 recorded species are some members of the family Chitonidae. These have photo-receptive nerve endings, pigmented layers and tiny lenses.
Shell structure

Chitons are zoologically classified as Polyplacophora, which can be loosely translated as "bearer of many plates". Actually, their shell consists of eight arched, overlapping plates or valves in an ovoid configuration to minimize water-drag and are articulated. They not only protect the flattened body of this slow-moving 10-100 mm herbivore, but also enable adherence with its large muscular foot to an irregular rock surface. Furthermore, they allow it to roll up into a ball in the unlikely event of dislodgment.
Adherence

Just as two glass sheets with a film of water between them are difficult to separate, so a secreted mucus between the animals foot and the rock face provides adhesion. It is the same with limpets, whereby an applied force of over 100 kg would be necessary to dislodge a large species. Chitons go one better, by tightly clamping their outer margin to the rock face and then raising the inner margin to create a vacuum seal.
Girdle and habitat

Besides giving rise to the shell, a fold of skin or "mantle" covering the visceral mass also overlaps to form a broad and tough flexible girdle. This is usually armed with bristles, scales or spines, which help to identify the different species. One often found with a scaly girdle is the colourful 30-40 mm tulip chiton (Chiton tulipa). Like most low-shore inhabitants, it lives under stones. Some species also live in crevices, but one even occurs on exposed high-shore rocks. This is the 30-45 mm spiny chiton (Acanthochiton garnoti), which is quite common in the Cape.
Feeding

Chitons usually emerge at night during high tides, to feed on minute algae and other encrusting organisms present on rocks. Before and even during feeding at times, they test the substratum with an extensible sensory structure called the "subradular" organ. They graze by rasping a long tongue-like ribbon with numerous transverse rows of 17 renewable teeth termed the "radula", which is projected from the mouth. The lateral teeth are capped with hard magnetite and self-sharpen as their softer trailing-edges wear. They have also been found to be magnetic in some species. Although not yet proven, some scientists suspect that the creature uses this property as a compass to align it with magnetic north. So perhaps people living in the Northern Province had better watch out!
Digestion

To process their difficult to digest vegetable diet, chitons have a very long coiled gut. It is also used as temporary storage for waste products compacted in mucus. To avoid accumulation under the mantle, these pellets are only flushed away when tides rise over the animal. Before particles of food can reach the stomach, they are mixed with amylase, which is an enzyme produced by a gland to help convert starch into sugar. In the stomach, they are further mixed with yet another enzyme from a large digestive gland to break down any protein present. This intracellular method of digestion is a problem for molluscs that feed on large prey, because they need to sort food according to size before it can be digested.
Oxygen uptake

Gills are arranged in a linear series within a groove on each side of the body between the foot and mantle edge. Depending on the species and their size, numbers vary from six to no less than 88 pairs. Towards the front, both sides of the mantle margins are raised to form inhalant openings. After passing over the gills, water is expelled from two exhalant siphons at the back.
Unfortunately, the gills are "bipectinate" with a precariously supporting central axis, from which plate-like lamellae project on either side. They are prone to clogging by silt sticking between their platelets and the mantle wall. For this reason, chitons avoid estuaries and lagoons, occurring only in clear water. In more evolutionary advanced molluscs, gills are "monopectinate" with platelets on one side of the axis. The other side is firmly fixed to the mantle wall, thereby strengthening the gill and preventing particles from blocking it.
Reproduction

Most chitons are dioecious and reproduce by external fertilization. A simple gonad above the gut sheds sperm or several hundred thousand eggs per spawning. A notable exception in southern African waters is Chiton nigrovirescens, which broods its eggs under the girdle. In the open sea, eggs hatch as "trochopore" larvae. Ringed with beating hairs or "cilia" for propulsion and to capture food particles, they have an almost ethereal appearance. Before settling, molluscs usually develop into "veliger" larvae and produce a tiny shell. Chitons bypass this stage, rapidly metamorphose in the plankton and sink to the bottom fully formed except for its still larval eyes.
The future

Scientists have long been puzzled by the ancestry of molluscs and chitons add to the intrigue. Unfortunately, they are not nearly as numerous as the bivalves, limpets, sea snails and others of their kin. Being mainly intertidal, they are highly vulnerable to gill blockage when nearby swimmers churn up the water. On the northern KwaZulu- Natal coast, they were also vulnerable to exploitation for medicinal purposes until the people learnt of their huge potential as a tourist attraction. Much to the excitement of marine biologists from around the world, an unknown species was recently discovered to be endemic to the region. With great pride, the locals learnt of its new name - Chiton Saliharfui. Although only 30 mm in size, it has the beautiful ornamentation of its kind artistically developed over 500 million years. Long may future generations be able to marvel at phylum (major grouping) Mollusca class Polyplacophora - some of the first marine invertebrates on planet Earth!
Identification of southern African species

For those readers wishing to locate and identify various chiton species, the following guide will hopefully be of some assistance.
SPECIES WITH SCALY GIRDLES:

The 10 mm dwarf chiton (Ischnochiton oniscus) with often white valves in various patterns and a narrow girdle with the scales almost smooth, lives in groups on the underside of rocks in sandy pools from False Bay to northern KwaZulu-Natal.

The 10-20 mm ribbed-scale chiton (Ischnochiton bergoti) with brown to off-white pitted valves and ribbed girdle scales, found under stones at low tide from the Cape Peninsula to northern Namibia.

The 10-25 mm brooding chiton (Chiton nigrovirescens) with ridged brownish-black valves and large but smooth coppery girdle scales, usually in groups under stones from Walvis Bay to Cape Agulhas.

The 20-40 mm textile chiton (Ischnochiton textilis) with a ridged pale yellow or grey shell and small oval scales on the girdle, found on the underside of boulders in rock-pools from northern Namibia to East London.

The 30-40 mm tulip chiton (Chiton tulipa), valves pink streaked or flecked with brown patches or zigzags and striped girdle with smooth but large overlapping scales, often discovered under rocks near low tide from Saldanha to the Transkei.

SPECIES WITH VELVETY GIRDLES:

The 20-50 mm broad chiton (Callochiton castaneus), dark-brown to orange with a wide spine-covered girdle of velvety texture and found under stones at low tide from Port Nolloth on the west coast to Cape Agulhas.

The 25-50 mm black chiton (Onithochiton literatus), dark-brown with wavy lines and broad velvety girdle with minute embedded rod-shaped calcareous "spicules", common on wave-washed rocks and the margins of rock-pools from the Transkei to northern KwaZulu-Natal.

The 30-45 mm spiny chiton (Acanthochiton garnoti), with brown valves partially buried by a wide girdle covered with nine pairs of tufted glassy spines and seen on high shore rocks from St. Helena Bay to Port St. Johns.

SPECIES WITH HAIRY GIRDLES:

The 40-50 mm orange hairy chiton (Chaetopleura pertusa), orange with beaded ribs and wide pink girdle bearing bristles and short hairs, ranging from Saldanha Bay to northern KwaZulu-Natal.

The 40-70 mm hairy chiton (Chaetopleura papilio), smooth shiny valves with alternate dark and light brown stripes and a wide brown girdle sparsely covered with black bristles, seen under rocks in low-tide pools from Lüderitz to Table Bay.

The 70-100 mm giant chiton or armadillo (Dinoplax gigas), steeply arched grey or brown valves and a brown girdle dotted with tufts of short hair, usually partially or fully buried in sand on rocky reefs from False Bay to the Transkei. Replaced by related species - Dinoplax validifossus - with uniformed instead of tufted girdle hairs in northern Transkei and KwaZulu-Natal.

Further reading

Branch, G. and Branch, M. (1981). The Living Shores of Southern Africa. C. Struik Publishers, Cape Town. Pp 211-213.
Branch, G., Griffiths, Branch, M. and Beckley, L. (1994). Two Oceans, a Guide to the Marine Life of Southern Africa. David Philip Publishers, Cape Town. pp 128-130.

Originally published in modified form in Underwater March 1990.

Black substrate?

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 3:18pm CDT by B2048

Hi everyone

I've been thinking about going with Caribsea's Hawaiian Black aragonite substrate. Does anyone on this forum use black substrate? I'm just not sure what it would look like and would really like to see it in someone's photos.

thanks!

B.

Skimmate question

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 2:55pm CDT by dizzyg

Hi Guys

silly thing to do but I thought id give the skimmate a sniff from my work tank, Iv never really gotten a big whiff of it but I thought it didnt smell as strong because of the large open factory. What I found is that the skimmate smelled of plants and it wasnt a bad smell at all, which is COMPLETELY the opposite of my home tank which smells of raw sewerage and makes me heave sometimes!

I clean each about once a week so its not like one is being cleaned more often allowing it to smell less.

Both tanks get fed the same type of food, my home tank I feed less due to less fish though. Both tanks are 250l, Home skimmer is a red sea skimmer that comes with the RSM tank and the work skimmer is a hang on back reef octopus.

What would cause such a difference in smells from the skimmate?

Tank, stand, and various items for sale for sale: Cape Town

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 2:44pm CDT by CheshireCat

Hardware for saleThread title:

Tank, stand, and various items for sale

Location:

Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only please

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

1. Tank (1500mm x 600mm x 600mm)
2. Stand (1500mm x 600mm x 800mm)
3. Sump (1200mm x 450mm x 450mm)
4. AquaMedic Turboflotor 1000 SL (Doesn't have a pump!)
5. Aqua H20 pump ASP-4000 (Max rate: 2900l/hr)
6. Playsand (Still in the original bags and sealed x 5) (Not shown)
7. Sunsun circulating pumps (6500l/hr x 3)
8. Other smaller extras (Background for tank, perspex covers for overflow, etc.)

I'm asking R5500 neg. for the lot. P.M. if you're interested.

Reason for selling: Moving overseas

Notes:

-

Paul the Octopus

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 12:48pm CDT by Jaco Schoeman

Okey, I can't find any other threads on this, so forgive me if this has already been done... Most (if not all of us ) heard about the Germans "Paul the Octopus" who predicts soccer score outcomes.

Well, here is a bit of info on the eight legged animal, courtesy of Wikipedia...

Paul (octopus)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Paul the Octopus)

Paul the Octopus

Paul in his tank, next to a football boot with the german flag coloursOther appellation(s)Paul Oktopus, Paul der KrakeSpecies OctopusvulcarisSexMaleBornJanuary 2008
Weymouth, DorsetOccupationExhibit, Psychic Football PunditKnown forPredicting results of Germany's football matchesOwnerSea Life Centres (aquarium keeper: Oliver Walenciak)Named afterA poem by Boy Lornsen, Der Tintenfisch Paul OktopusPaul (hatched January 2008) is a common octopus living in a tank at a Sea Life Centre in Oberhausen, Germany, who is used as an animal oracle to predict the results of football matches, usually international matches in which Germany is playing. He came to worldwide attention with his accurate predictions in the 2010 World Cup.
During a divination, Paul is presented with two boxes containing food in the form of a mussel, each marked with the flag of a national football team in an upcoming match. He chose the box with the flag of the winning team in four of Germany's six Euro 2008 matches, and in all seven of their matches in the 2010 World Cup. He correctly predicted a win for Spain against the Netherlands in the World Cup final on 11 July by eating the mussel in the box with the Spanish flag on it. His predictions have thus been 100% (8/8) correct for the 2010 World Cup and 86% (12/14) correct overall.
Life

Paul was hatched from an egg at the Sea Life Centre in Weymouth, England, then moved to a tank at one of the chain's centres in Oberhausen, Germany. His name derives from the title of a poem by the German children's writer Boy Lornsen: Der Tintenfisch Paul Oktopus.
The animal rights organization PETA have argued that it would be cruel to keep Paul in permanent confinement. Sea Life Centres have responded that it would be dangerous to release him, because he was born in captivity, and is not accustomed to finding food for himself.
According to DPA, local businessmen in Carballiño, a community in Galicia (Spain) collected about 30,000 Euro "Transfer fee" to get Paul as main attraction of the local Fiesta del Pulpo festival.[6] Manuel Pazo, a fisherman and head of the local business club made assurances that Paul would be presented alive in a tank and not on the menu. Sea Life Centres rejected the offer nevertheless.[7]
Divination

The two plastic boxes which are presented to Paul. The food items are visible in the left-hand corners.

Paul's career as an oracle began during the UEFA Euro 2008 tournament. In the lead-up to Germany's international football matches, Paul is presented with two clear plastic boxes, each containing food: a mussel or an oyster. Each container is marked with the flag of a team, one the flag of Germany, and the other the flag of Germany's opponent. The box which Paul opens first (and eats the contents of) is judged to be the predicted winner of the game.
Paul's apparent success is comparable to a run of luck when tossing a coin. This connection has been made by Professor Chris Budd of the University of Bath, Professor David Spiegelharter of Cambridge University, and Etienne Roquain of Pierre and Marie Curie University.
Under the hypothesis that Paul is equally likely to choose the winner or the loser of a match, and neglecting the possibility of a draw, he has a 1/2 chance of predicting a single result and a 1/64 chance of predicting six in a row. This feat would be unlikely, but not nearly as unlikely as winning the UK lottery, a chance of 1/14 million. Spiegelharter and Roquain point out that there are "other animals that have attempted but failed to predict the outcome of football matches"; it is not remarkable that one animal is more successful than the others, and only the successful animals will gain public attention after the fact. However, if Paul or other octopeds felt attracted for whatever reasons to the flagged boxes of Germany or Spain, their predections would be much more exact than tossing a coin. This applies only for ongoing interantional football tournaments but would fail for any other question.

Potential biases

Germany (11)

Spain (2)

Serbia (1)

Flags picked by Paul

Roquain goes on to admit that chance is not necessarily the only explanation for Paul's choices. He could be choosing boxes systematicallyif not on the basis of football expertise, then perhaps on his evaluation of the countries' flags or the food offered.
The species Octopus vulgaris is almost certainly color blind; neither behavioral studies nor electroretinogram experiments show any discrimination of a color's hue. Nonetheless, individuals can distinguish brightness as well as an object's size, shape, and orientation. Shelagh Malham of Bangor University states that they are drawn to horizontal shapes, and indeed, there are horizontal stripes on the flags he has chosen. The flag of Germany, a bold tricolor consisting of three equal horizontal bands of black, red and gold, is Paul's usual favorite. But the flag of Spain, with its broad yellow stripe, and the flag of Serbia, with its contrast of blue and white, are more vivid still, possibly explaining why Paul picked those countries over Germany. Fey suggested that Paul was confused by the similarities between the German and Spanish flags; this was on July 6, when Fey expressed hope that Paul's latest pick would be wrong.
Matthew Fuller, the senior aquarist at the Weymouth park, judged the flag-shape theory to be plausible: "[Octopuses] are the most intelligent of all the invertebrates and studies have shown they are able to distinguish shapes and patterns so maybe hes able to recognise flags." Vyacheslav Bisikov, a Russian biologist, agrees that it is possible for an octopus to become attracted to a striped flag. However, Pascal Coutant, director of the La Rochelle Aquarium states: "It's complete chance that guides his choices."
Octopus vulgaris is also equipped with sensitive chemoreceptors on its tentacles, which are used to taste food and "smell" the water. Biologist Volker Miske, of the University of Greifswald, suggests that minor chemical differences on the surface of each box might account for Paul's decisions. Bisikov states that Paul could be "easily trained" to choose the right box by smell. According to Paul's keepers, there are holes in the jars to help him choose.
Theories of his behavior could be systematically tested if Paul were to repeat his selection many times, but he only selects one box per game. A scientific experiment would be more vigilant towards sources of bias, including the flag visuals and potential differences in the preparation of the food.

In UEFA Euro 2008, Paul correctly predicted the outcome of 4 out of 6 of Germany's matches. He failed to predict their defeats by Croatia in the group stage, and by Spain in the championship's final.
2010 FIFA World Cup

Paul's accurate choices for the 2010 World Cup, broadcast live by German news channel NTV, have endowed him with celebrity status. Paul predicted the winners of each of the seven 2010 FIFA World Cup matches that the German team played, against Australia, Serbia, Ghana, England, Argentina, Spain, and Uruguay. His prediction that Argentina would lose prompted Argentine chef Nicolas Bedorrou to post an octopus recipe on Facebook.

There are always people who want to eat our octopus but he is not shy and we are here to protect him as well. He will survive.
Oliver Walenciak (Paul's keeper)

Paul correctly predicted the outcome of the semi-final, by choosing the food in the box marked with the Spanish flag. German supporters drew hope from his incorrect choice for the Germany versus Spain match in the UEFA Euro 2008 but were disappointed. The prediction led to death threats as German fans called for Paul to be cooked and eaten. In response, Spanish prime minister Jose Zapatero jokingly offered to send Paul official state protection, and the Industry Minister Miguel Sebastian called for Paul to be given safe haven in Spain. Paul maintained a 100% accurate record during the tournament by correctly predicting Spain's victory over the Netherlands in the final.

Diy ato

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 10:48am CDT by Pads

So a while ago I designed my own with a little cistern float and a broken circuit that will connect when the water gets too low. This was flawed in that the circuit connectors were exposed and it malfunctioned. So I built a new one with better parts. Check it!

Parts List

Mounting Bracket: Measure 25mm off one side

Bent Bracket: Place in oven to soften PVC to bend

Drill Hole: Drill Hole for attachment of float switch

Float Switch: Screw Float switch to bracket

Wiring: Split Wiring and connect into strip connector

Neaten Wiring: Wrap wiring with insulation tape

Mount ATO: Hang or Glue Bracket to Return Chamber of Sump

Tah Dah! :yeahdude:

Live stock in West Rand

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 10:26am CDT by rakabos

Hi guys

My first post YAY!

Anyway i am looking at getting into the Marine Aquarium game. Previously had Tropical fish like Oscars etc...

Ive been looking around at places to buy a decent sized tank and variety of live stock. Best I've found is Hillfox for tanks and VIP pets in Northgate for live stock. I have tried Lifestyle as well - not so great variety.

Are there any other places i should look ?

Cheers!

Refill CO2 canister - Cpt

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 9:44am CDT by JD167

I need to refill my CO2 canister. Frans suggested Afrox in Stikland, but when I spoke them now they say they don't do it.

Can anyone suggest a place in Cpt(northern subs) that can fill a canister?

New and clean

Posted: July 12th, 2010, 8:17am CDT by Virnon

Morning All

I have just moved down to the ocean, and was inspired to start a marine tank at home, But Where do i start? How to do this? I have done some reading on the net, but not getting a good set up site. I need to know what i need to start

Virnon

Can oysters and mussels live without light?

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 10:45pm CDT by herkie

I have a bunch of oysters below my overflow that has been in this tank from the beginning and quite some time in the old one. I wonder if I can move them to the cryptic zone once I have started it up. I have read a few related threads and think they should be able to live without light. Am I correct and do you think they will get enough water to filter in such a low flow area? Will the same things that applies to an oyster be applicable to mussels?

Frogspawn Growth

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 9:21pm CDT by Andreas

Hi Guys,

Could someone please identify the white growth on my frogspawn, seeing that some member thinks it's some type of fungus:whistling:

Profilux Owners

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 8:26pm CDT by vatso

Hi all

Just wanted to share some of the stuff that I am doing with my Profilux - you can view my profilux at [greenlab.webhop.net:8081]

This application can work for both a profilux ii & 3

I am also busy testing the new beta firmware from Profilux which will allow the profilux to send emails directly. This will allow you to receive alarm emails & other stats as well.

Wanted: Dual T5 24W Ballast

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 8:24pm CDT by abgg118

Hi all. I'm looking for a dual 24W T5 ballast ... if you have one for sale, you know what to do. Cheers

Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 8:06pm CDT by SchyffS

I am starting this thread in the interest of understanding reverse osmosis, the function of each filter as it leaves the tap until it ends up in the RO drum, and making the purest water available all the time every time.

Quoted from The Reef Aquarium; Science, Art and Technology, Vol 3 by J.Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung.

Background
While the quality of the salt mix you use is important, the quality of freshwater you use to make saltwater is equally, if not more important. Contact your local water works department to ask for a print out of what is in the tap water in your area. Examine the levels of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, iron, silicate, calcium, magnesium, pH, alkalanity and organics. They should be within the normal accepted ranges for reef aquariums. Many treatment plants add chemicals to the water to sterilise it as well as to cut down on the amount of hard water scale that can develop in the pipes. These usually consist of compounds containing chlorine, chloramines, ammonia and phosphate. In most cases, you have to treat the water to remove these compounds before it can be used in our reef aquaria.
There are several ways 9of treating tap water, however the most common and effective method is to use a combination of reverse osmosis and deionisation filters.

The functioning of reverse osmosis and deionisation filters
Reverse osmosis units use a porous membrane that allows small molecules, such as water to pass through but blocks the passage of larger molecules such as phosphate. ;)
These blocked molecules then pass out of the filter along with the rejected water :biggrin:
Reverse osmosis filters block up to 95% :P of many compounds but for every 3.8 litres of pure water produced about 30 litres of rejected water(waste water) is released. This can be somewhat improved by increasing the pressure of the incoming water, which is done with booster pumps and and recirculation loops on more effecient units that can achieve much closer to a 1:1 product to rejection ration. :)

Deionisation resins consists of tiney beads that function to adsorb certain types of compounds. Due to this ability, deionisation columns can be filled with a variety of resin types or can be custom designed to target one type of compound for removal. Passing the reverse osmosis water through a deionisation column(filter) further purifies the water and produces extremely pure freshwater.

Ultimately the produced water must have a 0 Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) value. This is an indication of the amount of solids/compounds in the water.

The question is, how do we achieve 0 TDS.

PLEASE ADD TO THIS THREAD OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE OF THE PREFILTERS, TDS METER, FLOW PATTERN, OPERATION OF THE UNIT AND MAINTENANCE OF THE UNIT.

New Member & New Nano

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 6:32pm CDT by Michael B

Hi Folks,

Im very new to Marine Fish & even newer to this forum great site BTW.

I currently have an 80L Cube (started in April 2010) & yes the bug has bitten, which means an upgrade my new 5 foot arrives this coming week.

Anyway thought I would post some pics of my current setup, until the one arrives.

Custom built Cube (10mm glass)
450mm (w) x 420mm (d) x 420mm (h)

Sump 400mm (w) x 300mm (d) x 400mm (h)
Chambers Skimmer, LR, Heater / Filter Matt, Ceramic Rings / Heater, Bubble Trap / Return Pump, Chem Pure Elit

Skimmer Dymax XP30 (200L)
Return Pump Eheim Compact (2,000lph)
Heaters ViaAqua (1 x 150w & 1 x 100w)
Powerhead Seio prop 320 (1,200lph)
Lighting Dymax MH (150w with 20,000k bulb), also LED Moonlights
Cooling 90mm PC Fan

10% water change weekly

Thats about it here are some pics any feedback welcome?

Cheers
Michael B

Liptoaqua foods .

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 6:14pm CDT by Old P.E Boy

Anybody used the lipto aqua foods ?

Dont know if i got the name 100 %, so to jog memory, its a spiralina baced powder that you mix 1 : 1 with water, it binds and after 10 min push it into live rock for finiky eaters. ?

Coral ID

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 6:10pm CDT by brendanpre

Please can someone help me out with this one. My cousin found this rolling around in the surf this morning. She thaught it would look good in my tank and brought it to me. It is VERY delicate, when you touch it it just crumbles. I honestly thought it was dead and put it in the tank for decoration. Apparently it was out the water for about half an hour but it is still alive.

Tang wars, will it end?

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 6:08pm CDT by Zuv

Bought a brown scopas tang today the guy at the pet shop said that it would'nt be a problem to my yellow tang that I've had in the tank for about 8 months.

My yellow tang is not impressed and is constantly harassing him, they are pretty much the same size but the yellow is slightly larger! Will the yellow chill out after sometime?

3 x 150W Metal Halide units for sale for sale: Fourways Gardens

Posted: July 11th, 2010, 2:52pm CDT by mnd123

Hardware for saleThread title:

3 x 150W Metal Halide units for sale

Location:

Fourways Gardens

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi all,

have the following MH odds and sods for sale:

150W MH, with control gear, has an old 14000K bulb in it that needs replacing - R400 DIBS POIROMANIX

Another 150W MH with control gear, no bulb and the glass shattered, will let this go at 1/2 price, you can get a replacement glass from lighting warehouse I believe - R200 DIBS LOKI

150W MH, wall mount with control gear built in - has an old 10000K bulb in it that needs replacing - R400 SOLD

Please indicate interest in the thread, not via PM

Cheers

Marc

Notes:

-

new setup

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 4:01am CDT by IMarine

Hi guys i thought i will share this with you guys,i am planning my new setup its going to be a 1500mt by 750 from top to bottom and 1000mt from front to back and build in 15mm glass,live rock AAA grade fully cured live rock 100kgs, 4 tunzes 6205 streamers controlled by a 7095 controller,deltec skimmer tc 2060 external,2x redsea fludised bed filters for phos,1 x aquamedic carbon reactor,1x aquamedic nitrite deductor,with mv controller,1xlaguna 7000lt uplift pump,1xgrotec calcium reactor,co2 bottle,ph controller,1xchiller hailea,1x 8x80watt t5 ati power modulle or if i sell it,then i will replace with new led light unit system,profilux 3,aqua medic t controller with aquamedic heaters,all live stock 2xpurple tangs,1x orange shoulder tang,lutenint tang,7 goldies,jumbing bean,1x cardinal,2x perculla clowns,1xyelloweye cole tang,1xsix line wrasse,1x cleaner wrasse,1x sohal tang,1x giant pin cushion leather,mixed zoes and many more

sps frag for sale: capetown

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 2:27am CDT by IMarine

Single frag for saleCommon Name:

sps

Scientific Name:

acropora purple tips

Size of coral

8cm-15cm

How long have you had the coral?

2years

Shipping or Collection only:

colection only

Your location.

capetown

Price:

frags from R50,00-R150.00 for massive frags

Photo's:

Notes:

Hi guys i had to take this pic of the net,sorry for this,i am planning my new monster tank 1600lts and i will be ready to move every thing over in a months time,my sps is very,very healthy and 1 branch could be fraged 5 times thats how masssive it is as i could not remove the rock from my tank so i had to frag it,frags will start from R50,00 each to a max of R150,00 or buy the whole lot for a bargin @ R1000,00 and with all these frags you could get close to 20 colonys or more,pls note that my sps branches is very thick and doing excellent,at this moment in time i have placed them all in my sump so act fast as this will not last long,the pics does not do justice to my sps

thanks imran

About how long are they alive and kicking?

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 2:07am CDT by chikaboo

Hey all ... I'm thinking this not so much to corals but more fish and inverts in general .... Can we put together a list of creatures living in our tanks with their "average" life spans ... This needs to be more of a guide where one can refer to quickly and get some idea of a creature's life span maybe before buying it or have it dying in your care and not getting a shock knowing that it is reaching its end.... Guys this needs to be figures that you have done research on or personally experienced so as not to have misleading info ... For example like I heard shrimps have like an average 2 year lifespan or wrasses live for about .... years or maybe tangs live for ... years or a blue tail lobster for .... years .... Your'll get the idea ..... Try to be specific if you can and if possible if you've had tried a particular species more than once and had repeated life spans or members that can confirm their experiences with other members than we can conclude in an average aquarium where everything is running without major issues than you can enjoy "xxxxxxx" fish or invert for "xxxxxxx" years before it's time up.......

Substrate: Cool idea for frag tanks

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 1:44am CDT by Dane

Saw this on nano-reef, pretty neat idea for fragging! Looks kinda funky too! :-)

Tank belongs to "Macheteavenue", http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=163883&st=100

Anthias spawning!!!

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 11:31pm CDT by Lorri

hey everyone,this is dale6,lorri and i setup our new 2.4m its been running for a while now and this evening we witnessed our anthias spawning!All our anthias are wild caught and one eventually turned into a male.I noticed today one female was noticeably fatter than the others and said she could be carrying eggs much to my delight an hour later the male began swimming around her and vibrating,they then proceeded to swim up towards the top of the tank side by side and the eggs and sperm where released!I then fetched the camera but only caught one video of them spawning.will upload later,what an amazing thing to witness!:biggrin:

starting up

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 11:10pm CDT by ravi

hi all. i am getting my tank, stand and sump next week. i have all the plumbing and the skimmer with the return pump. now what do i need and how do i startup. i also would like to know the best substrate for a fish only setup and what to use as an ideal filter media in my sump???

yet another newby

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 9:34pm CDT by mwoost

HI all

The only way to get rid of the reminder that I have not yet made a post is to do it and get it done.

Rather new to this hobby, but should rather call it a lifestyle. It seems that you eat and live, or you have a marine tank. I have been bitten and now at least I can lose some weight.

It started with a 4ft 9 months ago, one of the of the shelf units being sold all over the fish trade in JHB area. Spent a huge amount of money and time on it maybe to much, as since I started my new project, things in my small tank are improving.

The first tank
220 lites
30 liters in sump
4 ft light fixture 2 x 54w and 3 MH 150w
lots of live rock
and a mixture of soft and hard corals.
1/10Hp chiller
300w heater
a few pumps to keep water moving nicely.

Would post a picture if could figure out how to.

It looks OK but my hermits and Hare wrasse ( not sure to spell) is constantly destroying the corals by pulling them off the rocks.

so the new project

1200 liter 160 x 100 x 78(water level) with a 150 liter sump (12mm glass and 3 x 10mm bottoms) One cracked
been running for 3 weeks
been hell
First waiting for it to be custom made, after asking for quotes from some very reputable companies and after 20 days still waiting for it.
eventually my local pet shop assisted me with getting it built.

The design

3 sides blacked off only braced on sides no center brace.
Overflow incorporated into back glass, flat design. two returns on either side of the drain section.

4 chamber sump with noodles bio balls and some filter wool for the start.
will get some LR into it later when the Credit card recovers

Skimmer a octopus 1500 liter rated pent air design with needle wheel. got it imported from Australia at half the price of the local ones. Two huge return pumps 5000l each, also supplying the Sump. Skimmer is external, recycling the water till gravity feeds it back to the sump.

Profilux 3 Ex with no goodies yet to control the tank with. Also from Australia, 4k cheaper than locally.
to set the controller up i might have to go back to school.
the controller must do the following when it is up and going

control skimmer cup status (with level sensor)
dim and control lights
run cloud and storm and lightning simulations
do water changes
fill tank with RO
do flow control of internal pumps( still to buy)
maybe one-day when I win the lotto a wave box.

Placing.
Broke a door out and built the 3 sides up outside, tanks fits into this area, natural light from top and 3 sides (green stuff nightmare) but at least I will get true storm and cloud simulation till profilux takes over.

When all is done it will be built in with wood allowing only the glass to be seen. The tank is in a open plan kitchen lounge area.

This i hope is enough from me.
questions

what is redox ( profilux measures it)
what is conductivity ( also profilux)
what is best algae scrubber or phosphate reactor

Please help with ID

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 8:28pm CDT by herkie

This coral is opening up or so much more in the last 2 weeks than it ever did in the last year. Can you help to ID and then also assist me in what might be making it so happy. My tank is the same as before with the only difference being a filter with PhosGuard added about 2 weeks ago.

PO4 Minus media

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 8:09pm CDT by herkie

I bought this about 2 months ago at a local LFS and I would like to know if other reefers know this product. It does not come with proper instructions and the lady at the shop informed me to replace the piece of filter when it gas goes flat/thin. Well I had one piece in the sump for 2 weeks and apart from being slightly discolored by dirt it still looked the same thickness to me. It do not think it had any effect to algae in my tank and I now wonder if I am using it wrong or whether it is a bum product. I have a feeling it is the latter because if you look at the incorrect phosphate spelling it tells me I smell a rat. By the way this product costed R144.00.

Coral ID

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 6:17pm CDT by fish finger

Hi

I bought this (it is growing like mad:thumbup:). LFS wasn't sure what it was, said it was brought in as a hammer coral, but none of the heads are the right shape. Is it Frogspawn maybe?
Attached Files

	coral.doc (113.0 KB)
	front veiw.doc (119.5 KB)

Urgent help needed Regal tang doing somersaults

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 6:09pm CDT by dv8

It looks like my Regal Tang has gone completely mad. She appeared to be stuck between two rocks but after moving the rock she remained where she was. I gently moved her and she wennt crazy! Therapy is not going to help. Any suggestions?

Chalice Question

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 12:10pm CDT by Pads

Going through some threads and stocklists at the LFS I noticed the common term of Chalice Coral being related to two different species, could someone elaborate on the difference between Echinophyllia and Oxypora.

New arrivals

Posted: July 10th, 2010, 12:04pm CDT by Naiema

To let you know more new arrivals for this week. Pepperment Shrimps, Blue&Red legged hermits, Yellow tangs, Royal Grammas,Banngais&PJ Cardinals at very good prices.New Fiji Live rock, Anemones,Stunning corals, Regal, S/F, Scopas, Spotface Surgeons,& Lineatus Butterflies, Batfish, Foxface, Dwarf Angels etc. Please call us for the best prices. 0217122534/0826368990

OTP2000 Front cover plate

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 12:33am CDT by lIghty

Hi All

I've looking for the front cover pieces (the parts that support the shaft), its for my mothers skimmer, for some reason the impellor has chewed it away and it has collapst.

So if you have a dead pump I would really appreciate it if you could spare me the parts.

Thanks

Justin

Backgrnd paint for amrine tank

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 11:15pm CDT by Blade786

Hi,

can someone please tell me what paint the pet shops use for their marine tank backgrounds, i want to paint mine the same blue.

Please help! want to paint my tank tomorrow!

Thanks,

New member planning to go sps in my 90 cm nano

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 8:48pm CDT by Mogamatseraajregal

I have been running my tank for 3 years with softies the time has come for sps and my dumpbucket style ats

24/39w dual ballast query

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 6:44pm CDT by Dane

Hey all,

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 24w/39w T$ dual ballast should accomodate TWO T5 tubes, not one? The dual refers to the tube capacity, not the fact that its 24w or 39w?

I think my contact made an oopsies. I'm not paying R240 for a single 24/39w T5 ballast...
Thanks,
Dane

Lights cover - Boyu TL450

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 5:44pm CDT by Wetty

Looking for the see through plastic cover, covering the lights in my Boyu TL450. Does anyone have one laying around in good condition....just phones a supplier in Boksburg and they cant get.

Mine has cracked so salts building up on the inside...annoying.

PM me

RGB LED light, WOW!

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 5:31pm CDT by brettb2020

iv been setting up a temporary tank for my live stock while my new tank gets set up. since there are going to be know corals in this tank i decided i would use LED's for the lighting.

i had some RGB LED strips laying around that i bought a while back. it comes with a controller that is controlled by remote. picture below.

for those who dont know what RGB is: it stands for Red Green Blue, the primary colours of light. you can make any colour using those 3 colours by mixing them. the controller controls the intensity of each of the 3 colours according the colour light wanted.

now to the point. today i put my livestock in the tank. and WOW! the colour is intense!!! it is really amazing! And you can change the shade of light. to make white light you just switch all 3 colours on.

after seeing this i decided to put some star polyps in to see how they like it.

Iv been trying to take some pictures but I only have my phone at the moment and the pictures are to bad. will take some pics as soon as i get my camera back.

DJ equipment to Swop for full Reef System for sale: JHB

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 1:25pm CDT by Tidy

Hardware for saleThread title:

DJ equipment to Swop for full Reef System

Location:

JHB

Shipping or Collection only:

Will Collect

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi Guys
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
I have some DJ equipment that I would like to swop for a complete system.
What I have is :
Dj Mixer Gemini UMX-9 3ch
2 X Numark TTX Turntables with Stanton 505 needles
Final Scratch 2 (with this you can control mp3 on your PC and play them like Vinyl on the turntables.
<o:p></o:p>
What I am looking for is
200-400l Tank
Sump with DSB and Live Rock
Fish and Coral
RO unit
Skimmer
Lights
Pumps
All must be clean and working.
<o:p></o:p>
Please PM with what you have to offer + pics
<o:p></o:p>
Thanks

Notes:

-

Reducing sump flow?

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 1:20pm CDT by neil.h

This is starting to drive me crazy!

Any ideas on reducing flow from my skimmer chamber to DSB chamber? The baffle is quite high and with the water "falling" so far, it's churning up the first 2-3cm's of DSB closest to the baffle.

Dallas mentioned cutting Pvc pipe vertically and making an under/over with that. How do you get the 2 pieces to stay in place?

TV unit (GLASS / ALLUMINIUM )

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 11:44am CDT by clown

Hi All,

I'm selling our TV UNIT GLASS ALLUMINIUM stand.
This is a 1 year and 5 moths old.

We got this for R2500 brand new. We need some space in the new house and so we need to sell this not because we want to but because we have no other space.

We are selling it for R1300.00 or best / closes offer.

dwarf angels

Posted: July 9th, 2010, 10:24am CDT by squire

hi guys,

i need some advice on the following three questions:

1) which dwarf angels are reef safe?

2) which dwarf angels can you accommodate together in a 1000l tank with minimum worry?

3) how many together of those mentioned in question 2 can you accommodate in a 1000l tank with minimum worry?

Neon Stripped Damssl for sale: Blouberg

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 10:13pm CDT by Trev

Fish for saleCommon Name:

Neon Stripped Damssl

Scientific Name:

-

Size of fish

Large

How long have you had the fish?

1 month

Is the fish eating?

everything

Shipping or Collection only:

anything

Your location.

Blouberg

Price:

Mahala

Photo's:

Guys this is a neon stripped damsel that I took over from mistaorange and its available again, but it must got to a fish only tank, as he has a serious taste for soft corals and has gone balistic on all my softies. So if you have a space for him then give me a shout

Notes:

Guys this is a neon stripped damsel that I took over from mistaorange and its available again, but it must got to a fish only tank, as he has a serious taste for soft corals and has gone balistic on all my softies. So if you have a space for him then give me a shout

Dymax 2 x 250w + 2 x 21 wT5 unit for sale: Cape Town

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 9:34pm CDT by Fishy Steve

Hardware for saleThread title:

Dymax 2 x 250w + 2 x 21 wT5 unit

Location:

Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

unit is 900 x 300 x 120

comes with tank clamps and hanging points.

still under guarantee.

2 x 250watt Metal Halides 20000k
2 x 21 watt HO T5 14000k

Retails R5500

see below link for specs and pics.

http://www.mydymax.com/components/co...6a215b1382.jpg

I bought this unit second hand this week and it's WAY too much for my tank.

I'm either looking to swap for a NICE T5 39w unit (5 to 8 bulbs) plus a cash difference (Depending on T5 unit) or sell for R2500 exactly what I paid. That's R3000 off retail price and the unit is only 2 months old.

Perfect for someone upgrading to Halides. I think it will easily light the biggest 1.2m tank or someone that wants an insane amount of light for their 3 foot.

No it's not negotiable because I could be asking R3500 for it but only want what I paid. Please don't expect to do a direct swap for a reefinmates T5 unit that retails for R2200 new. ;)

Notes:

-

How do you spell this?

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 6:16pm CDT by viper357

What is the correct way to spell corraline? Is it

1. Coralline
2. Corralline
3. Corraline

???

Clownfish ID please

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 6:13pm CDT by viper357

Hi all

Can anyone verify if these are Black Onyx True Percula clownfish please? Thanks.

He hasn't got whitespot, just irritating coralline algae on the front glass. :p

Starting Up a Little Project

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 4:21pm CDT by Rabbit

Hey Ladies and Gents,

I inspired to start off a new marine tank. Done a bit of shopping around at some pet stores too, basically what was said is that its better starting off with new equipment then buying over someone elses issues. I find this unfavourable as these startup kits are pricey (R5000 up). I'm basically looking to start off small and cheap or maybe buy second hand to get to grips with how this marine systems works. can anyone put me in the right direction ???

Awaiting your experienced feedback ? :)

DIY phosphate reactor

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 4:07pm CDT by maj

Iv been looking at reactors,namely a phosphate reactor and iv decided on building one.
Just so tired of having a mesh bag with carbon,one with purigen and another with phos remover in.
So now I atleast want to build a type of reactor for it.

whats the essential characteristics behind it,like how much flow do I need to go thru this reactor chamber?
How long should this reactor be?
was thinking of simply just adding a pump to a closed off pvc piping,let it lay in the first chamber of the sump?

any suggestions

Calcium Reactor Help

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 3:35pm CDT by Manic

Hey everyone,

Been running my calcium reactor without a Ph controller for a few weeks now with no problems. I recently got a Ph controller and connected it this morning. Everything works fine and the controller opens and closes the solenoid valve perfectly. Here is my problem though. When the solenoid valve opens it lets a short burst of C02 into the bubble counter and then resumes the normal C02 flow rate. This is stuffing things up as the short burst of C02 drops the Ph in the reactor instantly and the solenoid valve is constantly opening and closing. The solenoid is aqua medic and so to is the regulator. Is this normal or is there a way to prevent this. The regulator pressure is sitting at 2 bar delivery pressure.

How much?

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 2:24pm CDT by PeterWest

Hi All

How much live rock will I need I a standard 2ft 60l

Regards
Peter

New Products

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 2:09pm CDT by lanzo

Hi Guys

On friday we will be getting stock of the whole SALIFERT test kit range

Will add prices to the website over the weekend

We will also get the Giesemann Globes that we will keep in stock

South Africa's largest online marine aquarium pet shop

We will be keeping Ocean Nutrition Frozen foods in stock...we are just waiting for the freezers

Happy reefing:wave2:

Best regrads
Dorry Pets

horse shoe crap ?

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 2:00pm CDT by boetie

are horse shoe crabs good for DSP:(

new tank

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 12:23pm CDT by jacquesdp

hi i am thinking of staring a marine tank how ever i am new to it . so all the help and advise would be greatly appreciated

New Shipments!

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 12:01pm CDT by Naiema

Stunning Shipments at Sams Aquarium:Blue Face, Navarchus,Bi Colours,Coral Beauties,Foxface, Triggers,Wimples,Copperbands &more butterflies,Regals, Sailfins,Vlamingis,Lipsticks&Scopas,Clowns,sixline s,Diamond back gobies, Longnose Hawks,mandarins Anemones, Stunning corals and more! Ph 0217122534/0826368990

Wiseman Klein TDS Meter

Posted: July 8th, 2010, 10:01am CDT by Sentari

Hi All

Just thought i would show you this nifty TDS Meter then tell you a little story.

Okay so Thanks to Marco from TheWaterBoy. Always great service and speedy!!!

So i was always worried about my TDS of my RO Unit. Also not knowing when to change my cartridges and if my TDS was causing my algae.

So what i did was install the new flush valve for my RO unit which didnt have a DI unit.

I then tested the TDS of the outlet and it was 64!!!!

I then flushed the for about 2 minutes. I then checked again and it was at 32!!!

I was getting somewhere. I then flushed it a few more times after that and it was dropping 20, 16, 13, 4 and then finally 2. Just to let you know this didnt have a DI Unit yet. I did purchase one which i will install tonight.

I cant belive how much of a difference the flush valve makes to the unit.

VERY CHUFFED!!!

Thanks!

Gauteng meetin

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 7:32am CDT by mnd123

Hey Joeys okes,

Please note that I have posted a Gauteng get together in the Gauteng club, all elcome, its at Adee

Gauteng reef meeting July: Adee - Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Cheers

Marc

Gauteng reef meeting July: Adee

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 7:31am CDT by mnd123

Hey all,

As promised the long awaited reef meeting at Adee's house! As you know he has taken Ants (Punk) tank and built a tankroom around it, but he also has that awe inspiring SPS reef.

Date: Sunday 25th July
Time: 11AM to 1PM (and until his wife kicks the stragglers out)
Place: 901 Moss Road, Weltevredenpark.

Adee will provide a Breyani for the gang, please bring your own drinks.

Please confirm attendance in this thread so Adee can plan food.

Cheers

Marc

What is this?

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 2:38am CDT by LifeAquatic

Found it on the back of some live rock. It looks like clear silicone and it's branching. Anyone seen anything like this before?
[IMG]

[/IMG]

Some threaded sharm pics

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 1:01am CDT by deadmeat2016

Sorry to those who couldnt get onto my pics, took the time to resize some

Big ass clam

There was a shoal opf about 35 of these triggers(red tooths?)

Feather star

Acropora anyone?

Sohal with kunzlinger wrasse in left corner

The Parrotfish which could not see lol

Sohal bumhole :/

Spot the stonefish

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 12:04am CDT by deadmeat2016

Can you spot him like I did in sharm a week ago?? :thumbup: amazing fish

Live rock or Live sponge

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 11:30pm CDT by Trev

I am looking for a convincing explanation as to why Live Rock is better than Live Filter sponge?

So here is the scenario you purchase LR lets use Fiji rock for example it has been well cured and is now seeded with plenty of bacteria and pods and is ready to go

Now another option is having some porous pvc filter sponge which has also been seeded very well and also contains all the bacteria and pods you could need for filtration.

So besides the following factors why is the rock better, Price, External growth, aesthetics.

Let it roll!

Sohal tang

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 11:09pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Does anyone have a Sohal tang?? are they endemic to the red sea? i would so love one as they look amazing but my tank isnt big enough.
Just wondering if anyone has one and if they are easy to care for.....
Thanks! :)

hi there

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 9:31pm CDT by boetie

must say this is a awsome site :thumbup:

100 kilos live rock

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 8:47pm CDT by hendrik muller

Hi guys I am selling live rock (Indonesia) R80 a kilo 3 years matured I paid between R120 to R160 a kilo
cell bryanston randburg

Red sea pics

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 8:01pm CDT by deadmeat2016

If anyone missed the link i posted to my pics;

Picasa Web Albums - 10972889073795761... - 100MEDIA#

Also does anyone know how i can resize a load of pics at once, doing them one by one is a mission :banghead:

Orange/Red Monti Cap for sale: Weltevredenpark, West Rand, JHB

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 4:33pm CDT by Adee

Single Coral for saleCommon Name:

Orange/Red Monti Cap

Scientific Name:

-

Size of coral

15cm across

How long have you had the coral?

about 6 months

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Your location.

Weltevredenpark, West Rand, JHB

Price:

R400

Photo's:

Notes:

-

New Member

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 3:34pm CDT by Dawidjvr

I have been in the Marine Aquariums for the past 5 years and just moved from Gauteng to PE. Brought my fully equipped of 900 litres along.

Pistol shrimp

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 3:13pm CDT by brendanpre

I found a pistol shrimp in my tank, do I keep it or not?

I only have a glass shrimp, some hermits, snails, etc. No fish yet. He is only about 1.5 to 2cm long but he seems to be clicking at my glass shrimp when he goes near the rock that the pistol is under....

BTW I think he may have been in there for a couple weeks already, I only noticed him after I added the glass shrimp at the weekend.

how do you build your tanks?

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 2:48pm CDT by brettb2020

so reading through the net and speaking to people it seems that there are two ways to assemble a tank.

Either: the sides are on top of the base.

Or: the base is cut slightly smaller and fits on the inside. the side panes are then stuck to the side of the base.

how do you prefer to build your tanks?

speaking from an engineers point of view, and I do stand to be corrected but the allowable shear stress of materials is normally lower than the allowable tensile stress. putting the sides on top is putting the silicone into shear. any comments on this?

Update

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 2:43pm CDT by fish finger

Hi

Just to update you my nennie is a happy camper. After reading all the info on the site and getting you to help ID her (H. magnifica), I rescaped the tank. Placed her in the best light and right flow. She is loving it:thumbup:. Hasn't made any attempt to move, extends fully (truely is magnificent). One happy camper!

If she keeps growing, in another 6 months I will need to rehome her. But i shall cross that bridge when we get there.

Thanks again to everyone for advice.

Idol Marine new stock and specials.

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 2:37pm CDT by Bob the (reef)builder

Hi All,

Reef beds are full of coral,brains,all euphyllia varients,stunning alien eye chalices,mushrooms,blue xenia,
sps and montipora.

Big clam shipment in the next few weeks:thumbup:.

Our World Cup Special ends on Sunday so please come in to participate:thumbup:

All the salty best,
Cheers for now,
Idol Marine Crew.

4 x purple tangs

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 2:36pm CDT by squire

hi guys, does anyone know how's it going with the guy who put 4 purple tangs together in his setup?

i am very interested to know how his fish are doing

Permalink for 'Marine_Aquariums_of_South_Africa/2010/07/07/Hi'

Hi

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 1:22pm CDT by Geoffcuz

Hi

I have a 450L discus tank that im trying to plant and im currently look for a Co2 system !

What do you guys think of this...

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 1:07pm CDT by Tobes

Heard about this over the radio and checked it out, kinda funny :P

Scuba diving dachshund - News - Jacaranda 94.2

Need help - Scypha Sponges

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 12:32pm CDT by llewellyn

Hi guys. I need help with these. I noticed loads of these tiny sponges growing all over the glass in my sump and a few in the DT. Is it good or bad? If bad how do i get rid of them?

Full Marine Tank setup for sale: Polokwane

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 11:07am CDT by gawarncke

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

Full Marine Tank setup for sale

Location:

Polokwane

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection Only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi There guys,

I am selling my full marine system. Paid over R80000.00 new from exotic aquariums.

Has plenty live rock, a anenome and some clown fish.

Equipment is all state of the art.

Tank if I stand correct is +- 2 metres.

WANTING R10000.00 CASH

Notes:

-

Full Marine Tank setup for sale: Polokwane

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 11:07am CDT by gawarncke

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

Full Marine Tank setup for sale

Location:

Polokwane

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection Only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hi There guys,

I am selling my full marine system. Paid over R80000.00 new from exotic aquariums.

Has plenty live rock, a anenome and some clown fish.

Equipment is all state of the art.

Tank if I stand correct is +- 2 metres.

WANTING R10000.00 CASH

Notes:

-

Hi All

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 9:26am CDT by Nathan1987

Hi All

i trust all is well, i am new to the world of marine specialists:-), i hope to learn a stack from you all, all advise provided will be much appreciated:-).:thumbup:

Coral Reference

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 9:22am CDT by Ross

Hey Guys

I know books have been discuses before, but I just need some input.
I was ref books that I can carry with me to the LFS probably in A5.
For fish I have figured out that A Pocket Guide to Marine Fishes is the one to go for by Scott Michael.

Is there anything similar for corals. I hear that Corals a quick Ref Guid is good but it is hard cover.

I am not looking for huge detail marine books, I already have:
The Reef Aquerium Vol 1 & 2
A Guid to Saltwater Aquarium
Dr. Burges's Atlas of Marine Fish
Reef Secrets

Ta,

Ross

I hate brine!

Posted: July 7th, 2010, 8:12am CDT by Anemone

My buddy came over to help me out with the seahorses. He started two brine hatcheries for me. The bottle of decapsulated brine was just about empty. So he adds some saltwater to the bottle to get out as much as he can. He forgets to throw the bottle in the sink to be cleaned. It sits on a shelf over night with about 1 cm of water in it. There was no water movement, the cap was on the bottle. The brine hatched! I decided to leave it so I could show my careless friend his science project. After two days I add some more water, removed the cap and added some live phytoplankton. Five days later they are still alive.

Now all I need is about a thousand 948ml empty pepsi bottles.

Camera wanted

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 9:52pm CDT by herkie

I would like to buy a used water/splash proof camera in working condition. Please let me have the detail.

true and false clowns

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 7:57pm CDT by squire

hi guys, i don't mean to sound stoopid, but can anyone please tell me what is the difference and how do you tell the difference between true and false clowns?

Brand New TDS meter for sale: Cape Town

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 6:56pm CDT by Riddi

Hardware for saleThread title:

Brand New TDS meter

Location:

Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

both

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Have a brand new TDS meter for sale R250

Notes:

-

8G Nano

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 3:31pm CDT by PeterWest

Hi All

I was wondering if anyone can help me here?

I have two spare 8 gallon tanks that have been previously been used for freshwater. I was wondering if I could turn it in to a small reef aquarium with the one being the display tank and the other being the sump.

I was also thinking that I could get a small 2ft tank for the display and the other 8G being the sump and the other 8G being a quarantine tank.

If so what sort of filtering will I be using. I am planning to use a 150 watt MH as the lighting. I want to add 2 clownfish, a few shrimp, some snails and a few kilos of live rock. I also want to add a few easy corals to grow. I might also add one or two other fish to accompany the clownfish.

Does anyone have some ideas or suggestions to make on the and what I need to get?

Regards
Peter

RDSB container

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 2:27pm CDT by neo

Hi,
I am planning on setting up a remote DSB, purpose being for a larger DSB and to free-up some space in my sump for other things.
I had a look at the big crate-like containers at plastic world but the walls are very thin and the containers will most probably deform when i add the sand/water.

Any suggestions for what container i could use?

Can a phosban reactor be used calcium reactor

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 1:46pm CDT by Angamia

Good Day Gents

Guys I have a question, can I use my phosphate reactor as a calcium reactor, I have a PhosBan Reactor 150, If I can use it as a Calcium reactor how do I go about setting it up, or is there a way to make a DIY calcium reactor

Plating monti frag not mounted

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 12:38pm CDT by Mad_Max

Hi,
Looking for a frag or two plating monti in PTA East area (size R5 coin). As title shown preferably unmounted. Will pay, or if anyone willing to donate some chips please PM me.

Thanks

Buying Equipment and foods

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 12:15pm CDT by Nico Kortenbout

Hi Folks,

Does anyone know of a good supplier of brine shrimp, plankton or zooplankton and other food types in Durban? Also are there any good places to pick up second hand equipment such as power heads or pumps and lights?

Thanks very much.

Reefsafe Aptiasia Killers

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 11:18am CDT by Evo R

Are there any LS that are 100% reef safe and that will have a feast on my uhmm aptiasia problem?
Please any help/advice would be great!!!

Strong Rand One Euro Nill inline with world cup

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 9:46am CDT by George

Hi guys with the Rand improved all Tunze prices have come down a tad.

Turbelle stream with flow control ( new) 6045 (4500l/h) was R 998.00 now 903.00
Turbelle stream 6125 (12,000l/h ) with magnets was R 2576.00 now R 2325.00
Turbelle stream electronic 6305 (5,000 - 30,000l/h ) was R 7862.00 now R 7075.00
Nano wave box 6206 rated for 200-600 litres tank was R 3636.00 now R 3328.00
Master DOC 9410 skimmer (1000 litre) was R 4355.00 now R 3936.00
Master DOC 9420 skimmer (2000 litre) was R 9532.00 now R 8650.00

These are current prices, additionally there is your MASA dicount for members only ask for it.

The whole TUNZE range is down, take advantage now.

George

Macroalgea wanted

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 9:11am CDT by FransSny

Hi guys

I am contemplating a planted tank & would like to know who has different types of macroalge / seagrasses that they are willing to part with

Re-seeding micro fauna?

Posted: July 6th, 2010, 8:53am CDT by neil.h

So I was away for 10 days and some evaporation took place. In my rush to get packed and to the airport, I forgot to leave instructions for the SO on what to do for topups etc. Sump ran dry, so she switched off all equipment :banghead:

Nett result, all micro fauna pegged. This includes tube worms, bristle worms and pods.

What would be the path going forward? Get some small pieces of LR and use it to reseed?

Also, anyone know where I can get sugar fine crushed coral in JHB?

Still investigating

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 7:55am CDT by stevengrant

Hi, I am still investigating marine set-ups. I have always had freshwater aqauriums which are a lot more simple to operate. I live in East London and have two young boys who love investgating rock pools. I am looking at starting with a Boyu tl450.

ricordea florida wanted

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 11:38pm CDT by Loki

hi im looking to buy / swap my monti digi frags for ricordeas floridas or colorful zoos. frags are pink/purple and a few green ones. all frags are mounted. my number is xxxxxxxxxxx

Aquascaping advice needed

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 11:20pm CDT by herkie

I have this about 80l tank and the aqua scaping really annoys me lately. I would like to redo the scaping and I would like to use diy or any other suitable rock. I would like to have three thin shelves not thicker than 3 cm each. I would like to be able to shape the lower biggest shelve so that it will allow me enough space to clean the glass without wasting too much space. I would also like to have the shelves to stand on legs that will not waste space.

Please give me your advice on what to use for shelving and legs or diy ideas. Can I use slate for shelves?

The low-budget tank...

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 8:24pm CDT by Annoying

Hey everyone

I finally convinced my mom to switch over to marine:thumbup:. Bye bye Malawi's:lol:. Now knowing I have a 200L tank to do what I want with it I was thinking "I wonder what's the best way to start a tank on the cheap" Don't get me wrong, I know buying cheap is only buying expensive in the future. This is only an experiment for those that want to start a marine tank but the budget is just to small. Now I would love some ideas for the tank. I was thinking for of an ATS in the place of a skimmer and I saw some LED lightiing at one of our hardware store. They were R100 for a 50 LED light. If I buy 4 and mount them on the tank I can test the LED for a Marine tank theory as well. For flow I'm thinking of a type of closed loop system. I won't be a full SPS reef, more to the LPS side and zoa's.

Any ideas will be apreciated!

Skimmer vs algea scrubber

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 7:58pm CDT by Dikdaan

Whats the pro's and con's of algea scrubbers and skimmers?

I want to add a scrubber to my new setup instead of the skimmer...

Any comments on this?

A warning to all you reef addicts...

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 4:53pm CDT by Jaak

So, I thought about posting this thread for a UBER long time and decide to do it nonetheless. And this is not a reflection on anyone but a reality from my own personal experiences while enjoying this wonderful hobby.

So, i started off in this wonderful hobby slowly after convincing the wife that the initial cost is the big part and thereafter the costs would be low. Geesh, I could not have been more wrong... Not from a maintenance point of view but from my greedy eyes point of view. So as time went on my Nano was just not good enough anymore and i wanted to go bigger. I sold my nano and got myself a 1.2 aqua h2o piece of cr@p! With this came new heaters, ts2 skimmer, resun wavers, sun suns, new and much more expensive fish, etc etc etc... and the list goes on, you get my point. Last year my 1.2 decided to pop while only the wife was at home. Big mission but we managed to save most of my livestock, etc... Many reefers helped with babysitting lots of my livestock up to the point where I decided to get let it all go to new homes.
This I thought was the best opportunity to upgrade and get a new tank. I bought a 2m with cabinet and sump that ended up being in a state of disrepair. I started buying more heaters and a bigger skimmer, new glass, light unit, etc... spending thousands!! The problem with my addiction to reefkeeping only became evident when I cancelled our December holiday last year due to "finances". In the process of setting up the new 2m tank I spent in excess of R16 000 on equipment, etc in one month and then a month later I cancelled our holiday... It's messed up I know. Even at this point I was still in denial about it and thought nothing was wrong. I carried on buying things and getting everything ready to set up the new tank.
In the meanwhile I did not realise that since I started this hobby I was spending on average about an hour every night on the tank and checking that everything is fine, water tests, top ups, staring at my corals and fish and feeling exceptionally proud. When the 1.2m tank came into my house it was even worse. On a weekend I would spend probably around 4-5 hours a day doing something with or for the tank and my own hobby. Like driving around looking at fish, corals, fetching water, etc...
All the while neglecting my wife and my family because i was so proud of this tank...:(
Unfortunately my eyes only opened to my own bloody selfishness after my wife and children moved out... Don't get me wrong, there are many other issues as well in the marriage but this was the one thing that drove my wife absolutely nuts. The fact that I would not hesitate to spend thousands on this hobby but cancel family holidays in a heartbeat because I did not want to let go of my hobby. I became so consumed by this hobby that I did not realise what I was doing to my own family and they are in fact so much more important to me.
With all of this being said I love this hobby but I allowed myself to become like a crack addict and nothing was ever enough. I have obviously decided to let this hobby go and maybe i'll start up again somewhere in the future. I will be posting everything for sale in the classifieds section in this week as I have to clear out everything due to relocating closer to my family, i have not seen them for over a month now. I do apologise if this is a bit heavy, etc. but I thought it good just to be open an honest about my addiction...

Hi all...

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 4:53pm CDT by Nico Kortenbout

Hi there

Just dropped in to say a quick hi there and hello to everyone. I will be putting up my stats and pics of my new setup as soon as I can. Looking forward to being a regular member in these forums. About the best place for advice I have yet found.

Stocked Reef Tank

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 3:43pm CDT by keyaam

Check this dudes bioload

YouTube- stocked reef tank.avi

YouTube- stocked reef tank.avi

Wanted - USB powered Hard drive

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 1:48pm CDT by ziyaadb

Hi all

I am looking for a Portable usb Powered Hard Drive. Anyone have 1 for sale? or can point me to where i can get 1 at a good price?

Mad max boyu tl550 (upgrades)

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 1:46pm CDT by Mad_Max

Upgraded from a TL450 to a TL550.

So, bought a few weeks ago Manic's tank which already had a extra 24W PL in the hood, as well as 2 PC fans mounted in the hood (check out his thread My Boyu TL-550 (With Mods) - Marine Aquariums of South Africa) plus a DB board with timers.

The first things done was respray the hood. There was some paint chipping off, so spray painted it mat black. I have to say it looks a lot better than the standard brown/gray.

So next on the list was adding a extra 18W PL in the hood. I moved the PC fans that were mounted in the opening slot for feeding outward to the corners. It was a tight it, but it worked. DIY the globe in the opening and works great.

Worried about the heat buildup, even with fans running I decided to move the magnetic ballasts to a external box. Simple job, open hood, unscrew the ballasts and build in to a PC power supply box that I has lying around (nice thing the box has lots of vents, so does not over heat at all.

Next thing was cleaning the inside of the hood.

Next build a DIY phosphate reactor. Used 50mm PVC pipe. Mounted end caps with 12mm elbows segmented in. Used X 2 5l water caps drilled with lots of holes plus thin layer of sponge to ensure the media stays inside. Added a 800l pump to provide flow and works like a dream. You can just hear the media hitting the sides of the chamber, so i assume this is how it should work.

No for my DIY skimmer. I had a WG 308 and WG 310 running duting the initial move. First played around with building a bigger wersion of the WG 310, but eventualy gave up, as the smaller pumps hava a limit how deep one can mount them inside the chambers and still pull in ait through the ventury. A big issue is if one finds a pump that will ditve the ventury, the foow is too much, and the skiller has to be raised obove the water level. I was not going to cut a hole int the hood for that. Eventualy decided to go the hang on route.

This is what is managed to build.

The chamber volume is 4 liter, collection cup is +-220ml. The pump is a Reeftek OTP-1000 Pump with a pin wheel. I ran the skimmer in (1 week testing) on my small tank that was sitting in the corner. WOW, there was a lot of crap in the water.

Last thing to do was mount it on the tank. I built a stand that I bolted on the the stand, 5kg of skimmer hanging on the the tank only by 20mm pipes was not going to last.

1st week of skimming looked as follow.

I have noticed that the skimmer produces good foam for 2 days after a water change (do my weekly mineral dosing), then it lessens a lot. It produces a lot of bubbles, but foam disappears. Only conclusion is my bio load is small (3 fish and a few corals). Anyhow I am happy with my skimmer.

Here are a few pics of my TL450 before and during the move to the TL550.

You can see I love my BTA. Believe it or not, that is under 2 X 18 PL. The photo's do it no justice, but the color is great. I am however battling with its clone the last 1.5 years. It keeps on hiding under a rock, so stays bleached. The deal is as long as it takes food every 3rd day, I will keep it.

BLW DE 250W MH for sale: Empangeni

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 1:14pm CDT by SIMS

Hardware for saleThread title:

BLW DE 250W MH

Location:

Empangeni

Shipping or Collection only:

inc. in price

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

I have a brand new BLV 250w DE Globe for sale...

R550 inc. shipping to your post office.

Can't get into photobucket so here is a link to the pic.

http://www.aquaticsworlduk.com/image...l%20Halide.jpg

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/User/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-11.png[/IMG]

Notes:

-

DIY Peristaltic Pump

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 12:38pm CDT by lIghty

Hi All

I'm thinking of building a peristaltic pump for my dosing, I feel the price on the OEM units are a rip off, so I'm thinking of building my own.

The basic design idea is the following:

A uC (microcontroller) with LCD will serve as the controller, which will drive some stepper motors with a DIY "roller block"

I would love to hear if anyone else has attempted this before?

My Tank - Finally

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 11:43am CDT by Hudsonkzn

Hi guys

I have been a member on MASA for over a year now, I am quite keen on the hobby, and have learnt alot lot from this site. I did setup a tank about a year ago, and fiddled around with many options etc, but never really committing to take on the task until I was sure of what I was doing.

Well, the time has arrived and I have just ordered my official tank, I should have it by mid week.

Here are the sketches of the Display and Sump.

I will keep you guys updated with pics when I get the tank.

Cheers

H

Full system for sale: Cape Town

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 11:10am CDT by timhar99

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

Full system for sale

Location:

Cape Town

Shipping or Collection only:

collection only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

<HR style="COLOR: #d1d1e1; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1> 
I am selling my marine aquarium.
It has been operational for 8 years and very stable parameters.
Tank is 1.2m x 0.5m x 0.8m, on a solid stand that is in a modern cabinet.
Tank comes with:
Sump - 1m x 0.3m x 0.45m
Metal Halide suspendible unit
RO unit
Skimmer
Pumps and powerheads
UV filter
comes with all extras such as heaters, test kits, refractometer, food etc.
livestock:
Huge fat Yellow tang
True Percula clown
Vaggabond Butterfly
Cleaner shrimp
Snails
+- 30 kg liverock (very purple and no aiptasia)
Livesand bed in main display

This tank has is worth way more than R15000

I would like to sell as is to someone in CT please

Notes:

-

Big sun suns in 1.3M tank possible?

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 10:48am CDT by ziyaadb

Hi all

Just wanted to get ur opinions on running 2*12000 sun suns in a 130*70W*55 tank. Have a seio controller for them as well set to its minimum setting of changing sides every 15 seconds. Would this be ok? Tank will be sps dominated and BB. It would be ideal if it could be set like a vortech or tunze to pulse but going from side to side every 15 seconds?

Your thoughts?

BEWARE: Pump / heater suckers

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 10:00am CDT by neo

Was cleaning my heaters and return chamber this weekend, this included cleaning the return pump.
While cleaning the return pump i noticed the suction feet were a bit slimy, started cleaning these and then realised that the plastic/rubber it was made of was actually breaking up and this is the cause of the sliminess, checked the return chamber and there were a fine deposit of black 'stuff' which I assume was coming from the rubber suckers busy breaking down.

I then checked the suckers on my heaters and they are not there yet but i think they will also end up like the those on the return pump.

Has anyone had similar experience ?

Glass from Light Unit Cracked

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 9:32am CDT by Junz

Hi Guys,

The worste thing happened, My light unit has a glass cover between the lamps and tank, which cracked

At about 9 I found the glass cracked and managed to remove the unit and most of the glass without dropping anymore into the tank, but upon inspection i did find a few pieces of glass in the tank

Please tell if a few pieces of glass in the tank will be dangerous ? i assuming the will wear out with all the friction and not pose any danger ...but just looking for some support on this theory

Thanks
__________________

wanted

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 9:23am CDT by chops

HI there i am looking a frag or a med pin cusion coral i have got some large zoes and some small ones to trade lumo green thanks chops

Few Items For sale for sale: Durban

Posted: July 5th, 2010, 9:02am CDT by Wolve

Hardware for saleThread title:

Few Items For sale

Location:

Durban

Shipping or Collection only:

Prefer collection - shipping at buyers cost and risk

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

hi Guys got a few items for sale.

6 x 39 watt t5 light unit, aluminium case, really nice unit. i will also include 6 extra tubes with unit, thats "12" tubes in total dudes, asking R1500.

next up i have a aqua excel skimmer rated for a 400L system with brand new otp 1000 pump with needle wheel impellor asking R 600

and finally i have a reef octopus auto top unit will post pic by tmr asking R 500

Notes:

-

Any way to rip DVD movies into my hard drive?

Posted: July 4th, 2010, 4:44am CDT by AlawnAaron

I don't want to "pirate" any movies, but would like to rip DVD's that I bought into my computer so I can put them on my iPod.
Are there ways to rip copy protected DVD's with many chapters/episodes etc?
Which software allows me to do it? Is it legal?

boyu tl550

Posted: July 4th, 2010, 12:05am CDT by mrtickle75

i am new to marine tanks only had it 2days is the bar that sticks out the skimmer and if so does the water have to be level with it or can it go above it:lol:

Cichlids

Posted: July 4th, 2010, 8:46pm CDT by Gregory

Hi All , i have a 4ft cichlid tank and have had for 4 years. Enjoying the challenge of getting these fish to thrive and looking for any advice you can give over and above the basics.

I live in Durban. I've heard you can add a litre of salt watre now and again to harden the water, is this ok? my water is siting at 7.2 .

I have some coral and will look at crushing it further and putting it in my 1200 Tetra Cannister.

My Tetra has a slight leak and i've heard is an O ring problem that Tetra knows about , hopefully a new ring will help.

I'm very keen on getting a big L shaped tank and I will definitley need assistance on such a big tank going forward. I've learned from alot of mistakes in the past and dont want to do that all again but need somebody who 'been there and done that' to help me.

Thx for your help in advance.

Lighting for my first REEF tank!

Posted: July 4th, 2010, 7:51pm CDT by Blade786

Hi All,

I have just recently ordered a new marine tank ( L 860MMX H 500MM X B 450MM )with overflow and sump.

I pretty much have everything i need but dont want to buy lights just yet. I joined this community becuase i am fairly new to this hobby and would really appreciate it if i could get some help in choosing the correct lights for my setup.

Initially i thought about the MH route but it looks to be an exspensive investment for starters. Then i looked at T5 lighting, Honestly, im really confused! if someone out there could give me some sort of advise on how to go about determining the right lights choice for my tank and where i could get a good place to purchase diy parts, i would really appreciate the asistance.

Anyway, i will post pics of my tank setup soon!:)

steel stand and cabinet for sale: gordons bay (cpt)

Posted: July 4th, 2010, 7:45pm CDT by burt

Hardware for saleThread title:

steel stand and cabinet

Location:

gordons bay (cpt)

Shipping or Collection only:

collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

steel stand and cabinet, tank that fits on there is a 1.5 by 700 and 12 mil glass, im going to build a brick stand, pic to follow. i need 2k to finish the job, so make me a offer

Notes:

-

6FT SPS reef for sale: Fourways Gardens

Posted: July 4th, 2010, 6:56pm CDT by mnd123

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

6FT SPS reef for sale

Location:

Fourways Gardens

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection only

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

Hey all, as promised I am breaking down my 6ft tank and selling off to make way for a smaller cube.

So the following is for sale:

6ft tank (1800Lx650Wx750H) 10mm glass, Euro braced, that I am pretty much giving away seeing as it was given to me, I will charge for the mods however. (this includes the Idol Marine overflow mod, the cupboards and the stand as seen below). Includes all plumbing, The stand (hammerited) and a 4ft sump and 2 x 15,000L/hr resun wavemakers. R2500

Add another R1000 for the Iwaki MD70 pump (or buy seperately)

Add another R1900 for the TS4 skimmer with 3 x OTP2000 pumps (or buy seperately)

Total for complete tank: R5000

Arcadia lighting pendant (with accessories): 3 x 250W MH plus 2 x CFL actinics. Has 2 x brand new BLV 250W MH's - needs a spare globe R3000

Reef octopus Kalk stirrer 500

6KG Kenya Live Rock (at R75/kg) with Pink Poccilopora (medium), Red Montipora Digitata (medium) Green Zoanthids, green/brown Protopalythoa (palys) and GSP (does not include ACAN) R950

6KG Kenya Live Rock (at R75/kg) with Red Montipora Digitata (medium) Green Zoanthids, green/brown Protopalythoa (palys) R600

6KG Kenya Live Rock (at R75/kg) with 2 HUGE Sinularia ( 1 is 30cm x 30cm and the other 20x25cm) Green Zoanthids, green/brown Protopalythoa (palys), Watermelon Mushrooms and METTALLIC GREEN GSP R1000

Notes:

-

design for pelagic egg catcher needed

Posted: July 4th, 2010, 10:29am CDT by mandarinman

hi guys im busy setting up a breeding system for mandarins and i am looking for a design for a pelagic egg catcher. i may not be home on time as lights go lower and might miss a spawn. so i want to automate a few aspects to decrease losses.help would be greatly appreciated.

Fragmented coral

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 7:57am CDT by greenie

Hi there, was just thinking is there a place in Gauteng where one can buy fragmented coral? (not sure if the term is correctly used)

Hello

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 5:47am CDT by viking

Hi there
My name is Oscar and I am getting back into fishkeeping after a break of about 10 years. A lot seems to have changed/improved in the marine side of the hobby.I want to start with freshwater again..to get my hand back in.However I would really like to get into marine with an eye towards breeding.I have 2 small kids so I am still on a bit of a budget and will be aquiring equipment as it becomes available at a good price.
Well that's me in a nutshell,looking forward to using the forums to get the advice I need!

SPS frags Wanted

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 2:39am CDT by Greenslimer

Does any body know of or have any SPS frags for sale?:whistling:

New Video: How Red Sea Salt is made.

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 1:33am CDT by viper357

How Red Sea Salt is made.

Video: How Red Sea Salt is made.
Category: General
Uploader: viper357
Quote:

Originally Posted by viper357 Interesting video showing the production of Red Sea's salts for coral-reef aquariums.

Zululand's most beautiful beach

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 10:48pm CDT by herkie

I went to a local beach on Friday ans had a fantastic day. The weather was absolutely fantastic and the water as clean and can be. I would like to share some photos with you.

Purple up by caribsea

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 9:43pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Just curious if anyone out there uses purple up? i have been using it for a while and my magnesium and calcium levels are through the roof with no water turning white. On furthur testing i find that it also upps the strontium, iodine and carbonate levels.
What is the worst that can happen? excluding water going white, iodine poisoning, calcium precipitation on equipment or excessive coralline :). The calcium does not precipitate because of the magnesium keeping it in check with relation to carbonate conc(MgCO3 and CaCO3 in good equilibrium)

Cheers in advance buddies and gurus :thumbup:

Hi All

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 5:15pm CDT by Mini Me

Hey Everyone

My name is Justin. I am busy planning a tank and love the wealth of info posted on this forum:thumbup:. I'm sure i'll be bugging everyone with question soon.:lol:

New soft coral help

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 4:21pm CDT by badbiker

Hi

just bought soft coral dont know the name of it. The problem is I dont know how to stick it with live rock coz it doesnt have solid base so what I did now brought small piece of rock and stick the bottom of the coral with rubber but seems that its not happy so need some good advices.

here is the pic

[/URL]

Differing Salts

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 2:55pm CDT by CliveS

Please would someone tell me the difference between Tropic Marin Bio Actif Sea Salt and Tropic Marin Sea Salt.

Which is better, if any?

Thanks.

Check it out!

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 2:34pm CDT by brendanpre

My first Gorgonian.

One week ago when it went into the tank.
:void(0)" target="_blank">

Today. WHOOOHOOO!!!!!
:void(0)" target="_blank">

Chipped glass on fuge, patch?

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 2:09pm CDT by Dane

hey all,

I recently had a little fuge made for my nano, its 60longx30highx12wide (cm)
Had an overflow groove ground on the rim, which worked like a charm! Unfortunately, the base of the glass on the wide side chipped slightly from the vibrations. a few small fragments came out, none higher than a 1mm, and none longer than 2mm. All right along the OUTSIDE base of the glass...

Really would like to set this up tomorrow, have very little free time with my masters, so wanted to know if I can "patch" this up?

Siliconing a glass strip along the inside base? Some sort of pratleys? or just siliconing a fat wedge on the inside and in the chips?

none of the chips reach right through the 4mm glass btw...

Id snail please

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 1:18pm CDT by gMAN

Hey all, can someone id this snail please

first thought it was a bumble but colors are white with blueish grey stripes. Sumped it last night but saw another on the LR this morning. doers anyone know if these guys are good/bad/ugly:P

reef freak

Posted: July 3rd, 2010, 12:05pm CDT by wynand

hi everyone im wynand:thumbup:

Sunday

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 1:03am CDT by brendanpre

I'm feeling the need to get wet on Sunday and want to try somewhere north of Dbn. Any body have some suggestions? I'm feeling a bit lazy(and unfit!!!!) so rock pools would be good!!

flow in a LR tank/chamber

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 12:28am CDT by sweetnsour

hey everyone

when having a LR tank / chamber what kind of flow do you need in there slow/ fast / over the LR / through the LR?

any and all coments/ ideas welcome

many thanks in advance :peroni:

New Member.

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 11:18pm CDT by Firefly

Hi everyone.:wave2:

Was looking for an aquarium forum based in SA, found this one and here I am! :thumbup:
Work at a wet pets/Nursery and have been in the process of starting a fish only marine aquarium. It's a 3ft-ish home build aquarium I found in the back of the shop in need of some work. Asked the owners and they said I could take it plus some other things:slayer:.
So now I have five tropical+one breeding tank+ one FO Marine tank nearly set up.
I have received lots of info from the owners of the shop and love learning more about the aquariums. So thats why I am here.....to learn from forums and start a few myself.

If anymore info is needed let me know;)

Thanks
Firefly

frags of any of these

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 11:16pm CDT by nathen

Hey guys lookung for any of these corals will to payof cause ,
tied of my local fish store robbing me blind even with my 10% discount i insist on , so it u guy have any frag you will to part with pms me
- Button Polyp, Yellow Colony Polyp, Hairy Mushroom Coral, and Bullseye Mushroom Coral)
Leather Coral,
Silver Branch Pumping Xenia
White Starburst Polyps
Colony polyps
Cauliflower Colt Coral
Taro Tree Coral
Toadstool Mushroom
Spaghetti Finger Leather Coral,

all my fish are sick of ick

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 8:22pm CDT by edyta2382

Hello everyone my fish tank is infested with ich all my fish are sick now
i lost my powder brown two days ago my yellow tang is still eating and grazing and
he is still scraching im going to remove all the live rock and corals a nd shrimps and crabs and start hypersalnity for long time can sombody tell me if a should remove the carbon and crushed coral substrate or should i leave it :( i hope i will save at least those guys.Edyta

Salt

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 7:14pm CDT by jumboswart

Ok so I am busy getting my 800x800x600 cube set up and want to be self reliant on RO and saltwater. My question is what is the best salt to buy to mix my own salt water.

I have 2 x 260 litre JoJo water storage tanks 1 for RO which I am producing myself with a Waterboy unit the other one will be plumbed with a mixing pump for saltwater, as my cube will only be about 400 litres in total I will be doing 100 litre water changes every month, so how long can the saltwater that has been mixed stay in the tank?

Also what is the best specific gravity meter for salinity that a person can get and where?

Dosing pumps

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 4:22pm CDT by mariusmeyer

What is your opinion on dosing pumps. Are they worth the money or just a luxury? I'm looking at the aqua medic quadro. Any other brands worth looking at?

marine sump volume?

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 3:37pm CDT by AHMED

hi
could you please what is the right sump volume to use withe 300 gallon tank?

Removing Sand Bed

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 1:43pm CDT by Ross

Howdy Guys

I have play sand for my sand bed in the display tank.
It is to fine and there is always some in the water column and I am sure it is grinding my impellers to bits.

I am going to start changing over to Argenite by doing about a 1/4 to 1/3 of the tank at a time. Was just wondering how long I should wait between changes.....

Ross

ViaAqua sk-388

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 1:29pm CDT by SaltyReef

Hi All,

I managed to get a brand new ViaAqua sk 388 for R400 yesterday.
This guy was given it as a gift but it doesn't fit in his Sump.

Lucky for me it just fit in mine.

will keep you posted on how it works.

I unfortunately had a boyu 1516 skimmer in before that seemed to work OK but was underrated for my tank.

The New sk388 is apparently rated for up to 1000L and my tank is only 400 with sump.

Has anyone got experience with the ViaAqua?

Mantis Shrimp

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 1:13pm CDT by SaltyReef

Hi all,

I got some live rock yesterday from a friends tank.

He dicided he was going to take it down as his fish kept dying for some unknown reason.

when I put this piece of liverock in my tank out came a 6cm long mantis shrimp. green with a beige stripe down its back. the slasher type of mantis.

I managed to catch him and dumped him in my dsb.

I think he has buried himself in the sand cause I cant find the little bugger today.

Does anybody want it. I'm sure i can coax him out with some fresh yellow fin Tuna.

maybe someone wants to swap me a small frag for it

Mark my Chemistry Homework

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 1:01pm CDT by Ross

Hi Guys, still trying to get my head around this water Chemistry.
Some Background, I have a Calcium Reactor and a Kalk Reactor.
(Kalk is on Top Up)

My readings are:
pH 8.1 (Will be low because of the Calcium Reactor)
KH 9 to 10dKH
Ca 517
pH in CaCO3/C02 Reactor is 6.7

I don't think the readings are to bad as I have only just started putting coral in the tank and the frags are tiny but I am suffering from Calcification on my equipment.
From what I understand I will need to add ALK(KH) to get the Ca down.
To do so I need to add something like baking soda (for a 50gal, 16grams will raise by about 1meq/L) A teaspoon will be about 1.7 dKh.

I have also been setting the Calcium reactor. I have turned the pH in it up over the last two weeks from 6.5 to 6.8. (ProfiLux controller) I understand that a higher pH in the reactor causes less Calcium coming out of it.

Ok my brain hurts, hope that makes sense.... am I on the right track or about to cause a tank to explode

Income Poll

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 12:00pm CDT by Jacojs

Hi Moderators.

I have been thinking about this for a while now. I obviously don't want to know who earns what but just get an idea of what the average income of MASA members are and what I would have to earn to be able to get myself a tank and commit to this hobby. See I am shit scared that my monthly expenses will be way too much and I'll end up having to sell the whole setup.

I was thinking the following options in the Poll.

R5000 to R9 999
R10 000 to R14 999
R15 000 to R19 999
R20 000 to R24 999
R25 000 to R29 999
R30 000 and above
Sponsored by Mom and Dad

Can someone please set this up or can I do it myself?

Jaco.

Microbelift products discussion thread.

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 10:09am CDT by Boegie

Excellent products!. Hope you are going to supply to other LFS in country. Especially East London, hint hint.

The MicrobeLift discussion thread

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 10:09am CDT by Boegie

Excellent products!. Hope you are going to supply to other LFS in country. Especially East London, hint hint.

anyone ever bought anything from fishstreet.com

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 9:35am CDT by ziyaadb

Hi all

Fishstreet.com looks like a reputable online store for a number of stuff. What really interests me is their temp controllers and wave makers. those things look awesome and are well priced as well. only issue would be waiting the 25 odd days for the delivery. anyone here bought anything from them before?

MicrobeLift product range currently available in South Africa

Posted: July 2nd, 2010, 9:27am CDT by HenkHugo

Good day all,

In this thread we will be posting info with regards to the MicrobeLift product range currently available in South Africa. As the range grows we will add more. We will be posting both salt and freshwater products here :thumbup:

BP Burning Sea Turtles Alive?

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 6:58am CDT by MistaOrange

This Is getting worse & something has to be done about this! BP Burning Sea Turtles Alive? : Discovery News

RedSeaKev

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 2:46am CDT by RedSeaKev

Time to introduce myself to the forum folks, I'm Red Sea Kev and I'm here to answer all you Red Sea product questions, I have 35 years of Marine fish and Reef keeping experience and have the support of Red Sea's scientists and engineers, I am based in the UK which is a little north of the most of you I'm sure but feel free to ask for support if you need it.

We are due to launch a number of new products including a new sump based aquarium called the S500 towards the end of the year or early 2011 but the first one will be the brand new formulated salts check out the video YouTube- Red Sea Salts 2010

YouTube- Red Sea Salts 2010

Red Sea Kev :wave2:

Blue star Leopard wrasse-How common are they these days?

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 12:11am CDT by 4age

Hi everyone. i had a blue star leopard wrasse in my last marine set up about 6 years ago...only had it for one month before i had to sell the tank..now i am setting up a 2m FOWLR tank and i want one of these fish..but i have only ever seen it once..which was the day i bought mine...since i havent been in the hobby for a while..was wondering how hard are these fish to get these days..do they come in often?

YouTube- Baby Bluestar Leopard Wrasse

YouTube- Baby Bluestar Leopard Wrasse

Tank and hardware for sale: Durban

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 11:42pm CDT by scubaninja

Full system sales or multiple items for sale.Thread title:

Tank and hardware for sale

Location:

Durban

Shipping or Collection only:

Collection

Photo's and description/list of items for sale:

1) Tank - 1200 x 600 x 660 mm, centre overflow, return pump and cabinet - R 3000

2) Aqua Medic Skimmer - Turboflotor Multi SL (new motor) R 1000

3) Aqua Medic Top up - Niveaumat R 1000

4) Aqua Medic Kalkwasser Stirrer 1000 R 2300

5) Tunze Nano Wave Box - R 3000

Notes:

Sorry for the small pics, the pics for the other things came out very blurry for some reason, so if you want the pic of the others i will take new ones.

Prices Open to negotiation, but dont chance your luck please.

coral food

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 7:44pm CDT by brendanpre

OK, so I just had a brainwave and would appreciate a bit of input from people with a bit more experience than me.

The basic principle is nothing new, marinara mix in a blender to get it nice and fine. I have read that spirulina is good for most corals too, as well as freshly hatched brine shrimp.

I was originaly thinking of making a basic marinara "mush" and then dividing it into batches and adding brine shrimp to one and spirulina to the other. That way I could alternate at feedings but now I'm wondering if I should just add everything at once and make a standard food?

Then another thing, I don't have much coral (yet:P!) so making small portions is a bit of a problem. My idea is to make up a batch, or batches, and portion it into drinking straws (fold the ends over and tape them to seal) and freeze them. I now have small portions ready made up in my freezer, they will defrost quickly and I can just feed directly from the straw wherever i need it.

Do you guys think it will work?

Candy cane

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 5:57pm CDT by Collin

My candy cane was doing stunning untill a hairy, soft brown growth and some white things (little round blown boddies with hairy mouth) is growing on it. Two of the polips do not open for the last week or so...the coral is not in direct current, but might sit to low. Can anyone help please

JAD WG-310 Protein Skimmer Review

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 5:02pm CDT by donkey

JAD WG-310 Protein Skimmer Review

YouTube- JAD WG-310 Protein Skimmer

YouTube- JAD WG-310 Protein Skimmer

:thumbup:

how often do you clean your glass

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 3:43pm CDT by sweetnsour

Hey everyone

just wanted to find out how often you you all clean your glass in your tanks?

personally i find it to be at least once a week and if i leave it, it gets hectic.

Easiest DIY skimmer for nanos

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 3:20pm CDT by Dane

hey all,

Saw one of these on nanoreef

I could DIY one of these in a day! Such a simple build. And feedback on NR seems to suggest they pack a lot of punch.

I have a 70L nano and am adding a nice fuge with DSB, scrubber and cryptic zone, all squeezed into a 60longx30highx15wide fuge. Am thinking of adding one of these too...

how much does a small wooden airstone go for? What do you guys think of this uber simple little skimmer?

Rgrds
Dane

What's better DSB or live rock - sump

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 2:30pm CDT by GI Marine

I am re-thinking my sump setup. Do have a DSB but was wondering "What is better a DSB or live rock". Is live rock not the better option for filtration and a stable system.

Help Seed My DSB....I need bugs.

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 1:01pm CDT by Schalkdk

Hi guys.
I have my DSB going for about three weeks now and Im starting to see small bug like things swimming, but would like to get some sand from a well established DSB to properly seed my DSB.
Is there anybody in the DBN central area that can spare some?:please:
It would be much appreciated.

Best method for GHA

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 11:47am CDT by maj

Ok,Due to me adding some LR(the missus thought we needed more) to my display thinkin that it was fully cured and at the same time adding more intense lighting to my tank,I had a huge cyano outbreak which then faded and a huge GHA breakout to occur.

I have been doing the weekly waterchanges now and built myself a decent Algae scrubber.Scrubber has started taking shape with some red algae then formed into green algae.Also added some phos remover and been feeding the inmates much less.

I thought by adding a nice lawnmower blenny,he will assist by clearing up the GHA but the guy decided that he doesnt like eating GHA(been in ther about 2 weeks now)

So my question is,how do I effectively scrape off the GHA,without really getting that algae to float all over the display and lodging onto corals,into crevices and hard to reach places?

any idea's????

Urgent help needed 1000l pond needed

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 11:42am CDT by 459b

Urgently need a large pond/container to use as a holding tank for fish and liverock. Current holding facility has sprung a leak so really need a new container. If you have one or know where i can get one please let me know.
I am based in cape town.

Urgent help needed Spot on Sailfin Tang

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 11:34am CDT by JDgr8

Hi All

I woke up this morning to find a big white spot, with a black dot in the centre of it, on my sailfin tang. Please see photo attached (apologies for poor quality).

Does anyone know what this is and what caused it? Is it dangerour / lethal and what now?

He was fine last night, fed normally and this morning he seemed fine.

Any help appreciated!

sad but interesting

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 11:08am CDT by leslie hempel

just goes to show that the ocean is not a black hole to throw our rubish into.. there are consequences to neglegent pollution.

FOXNews.com - Pair of Sweat Pants Among Garbage Found in Beached Whale's Stomach

Protein Skimmer versus Purigen

Posted: July 1st, 2010, 8:29am CDT by greenie

Morning, just a stupid question - can a bag of Purigen replace the work done by a Protein Skimmer in a tank? (95liters)

Reefkeeping South Africa » Marine Aquariums of South Africa » July 2010

Feeds

Marine Aquariums of South Africa

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 11:35pm CDT by costa

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 8:33pm CDT by cswhitehead

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 8:04pm CDT by rakabos

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 7:40pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 4:24pm CDT by vds

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 3:01pm CDT by vds

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 2:25pm CDT by Dikdaan

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 1:59pm CDT by Wizard

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 1:57pm CDT by Bob the (reef)builder

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 1:46pm CDT by SchyffS

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 10:35am CDT by mariusmeyer

Posted: July 31st, 2010, 9:24am CDT by RocheH

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:23am CDT by Theo

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 7:03pm CDT by Annoying

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 6:37pm CDT by lieb

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 6:36pm CDT by tatumskye

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 4:32pm CDT by RiaanP

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 3:05pm CDT by SaltyReef

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 2:25pm CDT by dropzone newbee

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:23pm CDT by GAKIEM

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:03pm CDT by Collie

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 1:01pm CDT by viper357

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 12:05pm CDT by dallasg

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 11:59am CDT by Bob the (reef)builder

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 11:41am CDT by Evo R

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 10:39am CDT by clinton

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 10:38am CDT by test user

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 9:37am CDT by rudivh

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 9:36am CDT by jrwdive

Posted: July 30th, 2010, 9:26am CDT by rudivh

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 11:08pm CDT by sihaya

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 11:05pm CDT by Rabbit

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 11:00pm CDT by wildbunny

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 10:52pm CDT by Zoom

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 8:42pm CDT by Tidy

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 7:23pm CDT by Mrabkin

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 7:19pm CDT by Jinx

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 6:10pm CDT by ziyaadb

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 5:27pm CDT by deadmeat2016

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 4:18pm CDT by RiaanP

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 4:12pm CDT by Nico Kortenbout

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 3:32pm CDT by Louis Scheepers

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 3:23pm CDT by callie

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 2:29pm CDT by vatso

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 1:43pm CDT by SaltyReef

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 1:40pm CDT by SaltyReef

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 12:39pm CDT by Dikdaan

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 9:35am CDT by dv8

Posted: July 29th, 2010, 9:06am CDT by leslie hempel

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:18am CDT by magman

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 11:08pm CDT by ravi

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 9:24pm CDT by Mrabkin

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 2:42pm CDT by Breakwall Diver

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 2:32pm CDT by Breakwall Diver

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 2:30pm CDT by flamming angel

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:57pm CDT by tatoolady

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:47pm CDT by FransSny

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 12:17pm CDT by Slummies

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 11:32am CDT by clinton stanford

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 10:26am CDT by Kershan

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 10:10am CDT by dropzone newbee

Posted: July 28th, 2010, 9:36am CDT by SPOT A

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 3:12am CDT by manace555

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 2:17pm CDT by Garethmur

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 1:50pm CDT by brentv

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 1:35pm CDT by flamming angel

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 12:22pm CDT by teez

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 11:02am CDT by Achilles

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 10:44am CDT by neo

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 10:41am CDT by nick_fraser

Posted: July 27th, 2010, 9:25am CDT by vatso

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 7:07am CDT by Trev

Posted: July 26th, 2010, 8:25pm CDT by koeks