Ultra Low Nutrient Systems with Vertex Pro-Bio Pellets
Most of us are now familiar with carbon dosing systems for marine tanks. Having found their start with dosing vodka, sugar and vinegar, they have evolved to a variety of liquid carbon sources that must be dosed daily to the aquarium in order to maintain a balanced bacteria population. With the advent of biologically degradable plastics, bio-pellets broke onto the scene. As their name suggests, these are small extruded pellets, now available in various shapes and sizes, made of a completely biodegradable plastic, which is based on carbon. The very thing we want to offer our bacteria.
These plastics are made via the bacterial fermentation of sugars to produce a linear polyesther of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Being a solid, they are not dissolvable in water, rather, they are broken down by other guilds of bacteria, during which process they assimilate nitrogenous wastes and phosphates. Via continuous skimming of the system, surplus bacteria are consistently harvested, thus exporting the unwanted wastes.
As Vertex Pro-Bio Pellets do not simply dissolve into the water, rather require bacteria to consume them, there is no chance of overdosing the carbon source, which is an issue with liquid carbon dosing. With the Pro-Bio Pellets one does not need to continually add the carbon. It is there in a fluidised media filter ready and waiting for the bacteria. This greatly simplifies the carbon dosing method.
When starting with this method, one needs to follow certain guidlines, especially in aquaria with existing high nutrient levels. It is recommended that one begin with about 25% of the final amount of Vertex Pro-Bio Pellets, to allow the bacteria population to slowly rise and consume the excess nutrients. As it is recommended to use approximately 1ml pellets to 1 litre water; a 500 litre tank would finally require 500ml pellets. To begin, one should use only 125ml and increase this amount to the full charge over a period of a few weeks.
Before using the pellets in your filter (we recommend the Vertex Univeral Media filter, available in 1.5l and 2l sizes), they should be soaked in aquarium water overnight. Otherwise the micro-bubbles of air trapped within them will make them float to the top of the filter canister and be ejected into the aquarium, unless a fine filter stops them. After filling the appropriate amount of pellets into the filter, bring the pump flow up just enough that the pellets dance about with no dead areas. More water movement is not required and too much flow will tend to push the pellets against the filter sieve and block the flow.
FAQ
Must I use a skimmer with pellets?
The short answer is yes! The idea of any fitration system is the export of undesirable elements, in this case nutrients. By supporting the reproduction of bacteria, we are supporting the incorporation of nutrients into a removable entity, the bacteria. Unless one has an awful lot of filter feeders removing this bacteria, it will simply die and break back down into the waste product one wished to remove. A skimmer effectively harvests the bacteria and, thus remove the nutrients from the system.
Do I need to feed the reactor output directly to my skimmer?
No, there is no need to do so. The bacteria produced is a food source for many filtering creatures, such as sponges, clams, fan worms, etc, as well as many sps. Removing it directly would be missing an opportunity to provide a natural food for your tank and further support the biodiversity.
Are pellets only for salt water?
No. Pellets may be used in any biologically driven filtration system that requires a carbon source. Ponds, freshwater tanks, even sewage treatment may be handled with a pellet technology.
Can pellets be combined with other systems, such a zeolith-based filtration?
Of course, as they are simply a solid carbon source. Zeolith will enhance the function of the pellets, as well as keep the water very free from fine particles.
Can pellets be used with ozone or UV?
This is not recommended, as both of these filtration aids attack and kill the bacteria. Their use would be counterproductive.
Must pellets be run in a fluidised reactor?
In essence, yes. They must be kept well oxygenated with flowing water. Compacted pellets will develope anaerobic conditions, which is not inducive to NO3 reduction and may produce poisonous wastes.
Are pellets good for FOWLR tanks?
Certainly, and this is an excellent method to control wastes. As the LR will provide a good basis for bacterial guilds, the pellets will be quickly populated by bacteria. Pay special attention to nutrient levels when you start. With high existing levels of NO3/ammonia, which are common in fish-only systems, start with less than 25% of the planned final dosage to allow the levels to come down slowly and prevent a bacterial bloom. Make sure your skimmer is functioning at top efficiency.
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Items by Jamie@Vertex
Marine Aquariums of South Africa
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Vertex Pro-Bio Pellets- a guide
Posted: April 4th, 2012, 12:36pm CDT by Jamie@Vertex
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Illumina News- New Lower Prices!
Posted: March 2nd, 2012, 3:58pm CST by Jamie@Vertex
OK, get a hold of yourselves. There is a price DECREASE for the Vertex Illumina lmaps, both SR series. More info at this link.
[www.vertexaquaristik.com]
And, of course, you can ask Nathan for price details.
Jamie -
Coral Colour Development under the Vertex Illumina
Posted: February 24th, 2012, 3:33pm CST by Jamie@Vertex
I posted some shots from my tank under the Illumina on the main forum.
Coral Colouration under Illumina SR260 - Marine Aquariums of South Africa
Ciao,
Jamie -
Coral Colouration under Illumina SR260
Posted: February 24th, 2012, 3:19pm CST by Jamie@Vertex
Well, I have a new camera and had to share a shot of my tank. This first one is a partial front shot. The Monti upper right has a shocking history. Below I have posted a before Illumina and after Illumina fotos. The developement of the coral is amazing.
The sorry-looking Acro in the middle was harvested for frags and passed on to me. The new growth is pink with blue polyps, which you can just make out in the foto.
Montipora cassituberculata after about 1 year under the Illumina SR260. The colour is gorgeous.
Before, when kept under halide/T5s. It never developed good colour.
Enjoy,
Jamie -
Vertex Illumina Software Up-Dates
Posted: February 18th, 2012, 4:02pm CST by Jamie@Vertex
We have a new FirmWare for the Illumina, 1851, which you can download from our website. As this is a complete re-work of the software, you should do a complete up-date, rather than the necessary up-date. Depending on the size of your Illumina, this will take up to an hour. Each pad will beindividually up-dated. Make sure you have a good connection to the lamp from the computer. We recommend being within 6ft/2m of the lamp. You can read the connection status at the bottom bar of the DeskTop programm.
If you have not up-graded to the DeskTop 1845 software, please download this and perform the up-date beforehand. It makes the subsequent up-dates much easier (new pop-up guide windows)
Also, check that you are using the latest V-Stick software, 1695.
Here is a direct link.
http://vertexaquaristik.com/Products...E/Default.aspx
Other than we have fixed a couple of clock problems in the previous version, we have added a new category for lamp temperature. When clicked, it will monitor the actual running temperature of the lamp. Depending on the ambient temperature, this will be between 50°C to 80°C, which are well under the rated 120°C for the LEDs. To be honest, this is one of those features we built in because we could and find users appreciate the information.
If you have questions, just post here!
Ciao,
Jamie -
New Products-Winter 2012
Posted: January 27th, 2012, 4:33pm CST by Jamie@Vertex
Vertex has some candy for you. Guaranteed low-cal!
Vertex Vectra - Skimmer-Neck Cleaning System
Finally, an affordable solution to keeping your skimmer neck clean. Instead of dismounting your skimmer collection cup every few days, to wipe the slime from the inside of the neck, the Vertex Vectra will swipe through this efficiency reducing coating as often as you wish. Regulated by an aquarium computer or simply placed on a timer, the Vectra will help maintain fullest efficiency from your skimmer, while sparing you the grimy hands.
The Vectra is a two-part product consiting of the Vectra Engine, which is a standard motor used for all skimmer-size variations, plus the Skimmer-Lid, which is ordered seperately and available in various sizes to fit Vertex Alpha Cone Skimmers, as well as other models (Bubble King, etc). We offer 150mm, 160mm, 180mm, 200mm, 250mm, and 300mm diameters, which correspond to the diameter of the acrylic skimmer cup. The size 180 fits the Alpha Cone 170, as example, which has a 180mm cup diameter. The squeegee is adjustable to various neck diameters. Once again, Vertex sets a new standard!
Vertex Polypropylene or Nylon Filter Socks
Smartly packed in a standing carry bag, perfect for check-out display sales, the Vertex Polypropelene and Nylon-Filter socks come is various sizes and filter grades from 100-300 micron. The best quality in pre-filtering.
Available in: Polypropylene: 11cm ring/30cm long, 200µ; 18cm ring/30cm long, 200µ; 20cm x 40cm, drawstring, 100µ; 20cm x 40cm, 200µ; Nylon: 11cm ring/36cm long, 300µ; 18cm/36cm, 300µ.
Vertex Magnetic Probe Holder
Very smart-looking and watersafe. An acrylic holder for up to 3 probes, with titanium screws to fasten the probes in their slots. Nice strong magnets! Slots: 12mm.
Vertex Acrylic Cleaner Magnet
A small cleaner magnet designed for nano or similar sized tanks, made of clear acrylic and stainless steel. Velcro-type cleaning surface. Two sizes: the Simplex is only 1cm x 1cm, while the Duplex is 2cm x 4cm. Same clean and smart aesthetic as the Probe Holder. Nice packaging makes it especially attractive at the check-out.
Vertex Titanium Grounding Poles
Like the name says, these will ground the aquarium from stray voltage. An often overlooked safety feature. Availble with plugs for the UK, Australia and Europe. A highly recommended safety accessory. Simply mount with the included suction cup in sump or/and aquarium (or where ever the electrical items are working in water). -
Vertex Vectra - Skimmer Neck Cleaner
Posted: January 12th, 2012, 7:50pm CST by Jamie@Vertex
This is great! We have the Vertex Vectra ready to go and the price is totally cool! About half of the competitors. I guess it was worth the wait.
The product consists of an motor, the Vectra Engine, plus a sold seperately cover, available in various millimeter diameters for most standard neck sizes. We offer 150, 160, 180, 200, 250, 300mm diameters. These last 4 correspond directly to the Vertex Alpha Skimmer series, the 170, 200, 250, 300. It will fit the Royal Exclusiv skimmers, as well as most other brands. Just measure the diameter of your skimmer neck and Bob's your uncle...... or somtin' like that.
Here is a link where you can get a good look at it!
http://reefbuilders.com/2011/09/12/vert ... k-cleaner/
OK, go run to your nearest Vertex dealer and demand your cleaning team!
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Some cool Videos! Illuminlux Nana, Illumina Pad reset,etc
Posted: January 5th, 2012, 6:27pm CST by Jamie@Vertex
At this link you will find videos on Vertex products. One showing you a nano run with the Illumilux Marino Bianco modular lighting. Another showing how to re-set a Pad on the Illumina, as well as some others on pad mounting and general infos. Check it out!
Illumilux Marino Bianco over NPS Nano Reef on Vimeo
Vertex Illumina LED Module Update/Fix on VimeoIllumilux Marino Bianco over NPS Nano Reef on Vimeo Vertex Illumina LED Module Update/Fix on Vimeo -
Vertex Libra Dosing Computer/Pump
Posted: November 17th, 2011, 12:00am CST by Jamie@Vertex
Ok, ok, here are some pictures of the ready device we have in testing at the moment. The device should be also ready for sale in 6-8 Weeks. 30cm x 12cm x 13cm
You know, Christmas is the time for wonders....
Have fun
Nicolas + Jamie
Please keep in mind that this is a Prototyp and someparts will maybe look different in the finalized version....
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Understanding RGB LED . Mythbusting
Posted: October 30th, 2011, 8:56pm CDT by Jamie@Vertex
With all the hype going on with RGB (red, green, blue) LED combinations, I wanted to take a moment and explain some of the mythology associated with this approach. I know we are all fascinated by a potential magic bullit.
First, we need to understand what light is and what light LEDs produce. Most of us know that visible light is but a splinter of the electromagnetic spectrum, which includes wavelengths such as infra red (heat) to gamma radiation (destroys living tissues). LEDs are a technology that can produce very specific radiation wavelengths. We are familiar with the current favourites such as Royal Blue (450nm), Blue (470nm) and Cool White (a phosphor LED with a mixed spectrum peaking elatively low in the yellow-green and high in the royal blue). These are all within the photosynthetic spectrum, often called PAR (photosynthetic active radiation). This is essentially visible light. Depending on the organism, various parts of this spectrum are utilized for their photosynthesis. This is an evolutionary adaptation which allow the organism to thrive in its given environments. Needless to say, the actual parts of the PAR spectrum utilized can vary greatly. Land plants utilize most of the red to far red spectrum, as well as the blue to UV spectrum. Sea plants, such as zooxanthellate alga, use mainly the blue spectrum, as this is most abundant in shallow seas. The red is simply filtered out in the first few meters of water and thus not available for photosynthesis.
Now, this demarcates the area of useful radiations for any given environment, which we often refer to as PUR (photosynthetic utilized radiation). For our marine aquariums, this embraces the spectrum from about 530nm down to 380nm, of which most of the PUR is between 400nm-500nm with strong peaks at about 410nm and 450nm, give or take a little. This makes radiations outside of this spectrum less interesting for our corals and most other creatures found on the average reef, which is typically 10m deep or more (the exception being tidal reef tops, of course).
Now, with this base information in mind, let us look at RGB lighting. We can simply say we have radiations at 470nm (blue), 530nm (green) and 630nm (red) from the get go. Of these, the blue is the most usefull for corals, although it peaks a bit high. Many animals do use this spectrum and it does enhance many fluorescent pigments. A definite win for the aquarium. The green radiation comes on the border of usefull radiation. For photosynthesis, it is largely useless, but for the production of certain pigments or at least their fluorescence, it is usefull. On the other side of the coin, it starts the range of cynanobacteria PUR, which then runs up into the yellow. It is a radiation to enjoy in smaller amounts and with some caveats. Now, the red, at 630nm, is at the start of the classic land PUR for very shallow water life forms. It will encourage certain alga, but, interestingly enough, will actually restrict the populations of zooxanthellae in a coral! (this may be guild related). An interesting quality. In very large amounts, it could potnetially damage or even kill a coral via bleaching, while in controlled amounts will aid in modeling the colour of corals via this zooxanthellae restriction. It is an area that needs to be better researched.
OK, this alls sounds fascinating, but what about all the cool colour blends one can create with an RGB set-up? Yes, with these colours one can visually mix any given colour (within reason, as colour is a bit more complex) for their aquarium. Our eyes will be quite happy with the results. However, to attain the humanly aesthetic results, we are tricking ourselves into believeing that our corals are getting what we see. Let me explain.
Our eyes will mix received radiation and create colours that are radiation-wise not there. For a simple example, a combination of red and blue light will appear violet to our eyes. This is not violet radiation! If we analyze the spectrum, we will find that it is still a combination of 450nm and 630nm, not a true violet at 420nm! The same is true for any visual colour effect mixed via this method. It is the same thing we see in printed materia, where we are using cyan, yellow and magenta with black to create the entire rainbow. Our eyes are tricking us into see what we have lead them to see. Actually, a very cool thing, as, without this, colour printing would be close to impossible. Many will remember from school tha the cones in our eyes detect specific groups of radiation with preference, creating wehat we call trichomatic vision. The cone receptors of our retina interpret blue-violet, green and yellow-orange (red) wavelengths into the complete rainbow or possible colours. Of course, our corals do not see the world through our eyes and, with a RGB spectrum are missing much of the vital radiation they need to fill their PUR spectrum. The bottom line is: if the radiations are not produced by the light source, it is simply not there! Regarless of what our eyes are trying to relate to us.
This is not to say that RGB is a bad thing, simply that one must understand what one actually has. As a supplement to a good PUR spectrum, it does allow the aquarist more scope in mixing the aesthetic. It does not substitute for missing parts of the electromagnetic spectrum.
If you have questions, do ask. Many of the obvious questions can be better answered with a Google search, where you will find in-depth discussions of human vision and the visible spectrum, as well as PUR and PAR.